Amanonahandsomehorsedressedinredcameprancinguptous，lookinghardattheladiesinthelitter，andpassedaway。Thentwootherssaunteredup，onehandsome，anddressedinredtoo，andhestaredintothelitterwithoutceremony，begantoplaywithalittledogthatlaythere，askedifwewereInglees，andwasansweredbymeintheaffirmative。Paolohadbroughtthewater，themostdeliciousdraughtintheworld。Thegentlefolkshadhadsome，thepoormuleteerswerelongingforit。TheFrenchmaid，thecourageousVictoire（neversincethedaysofJoanofArchastheresurelybeenamoregallantandvirtuousfemaleofFrance）refusedthedrink；whensuddenlyaservantofthepartyscampersuptohismasterandsays：\"AbouGoshsaystheladiesmustgetoutandshowthemselvestothewomenofthevillage！\"
ItwasAbouGoshhimself，theredoubtedrobberSheikhaboutwhomwehadbeenlaughingandcrying\"Wolf！\"allday。Neverwasseensuchaskurry！\"March！\"wastheinstantordergiven。WhenVictoireheardwhoitwasandthemessage，youshouldhaveseenhowshechangedcountenance；tremblingforhervirtueintheferociousclutchesofaGosh。\"Unverred’eaupourl’amourdeDieu！\"gaspedshe，andwasreadytofaintonhersaddle。\"Nebuvezplus，Victoire！\"screamedalittlefellowofourparty。\"Pushon，pushon！\"criedoneandall。\"What’sthematter？\"exclaimedtheladiesinthelitter，astheysawthemselvessuddenlyjoggingonagain。
ButwetookcarenottotellthemwhathadbeenthedesignsoftheredoubtableAbouGosh。Awaythenwewent——Victoirewassaved——andhermistressesrescuedfromdangerstheyknewnotof，untiltheywerealongwayoutofthevillage。
Didheintendinsultorgoodwill？DidVictoireescapetheodiouschanceofbecomingMadameAbouGosh？Ordidthemountainchiefsimplyproposetobehospitableafterhisfashion？Ithinkthelatterwashisdesire；iftheformerhadbeenhiswish，ahalf-
dozenofhislonggunscouldhavebeenupwithusinaminute，andhadallourpartyattheirmercy。Butnow，forthesakeofthemereexcitement，theincidentwas，Iamsorrytosay，ratherapleasantonethanotherwise：especiallyforatravellerwhoisinthehappyconditionofbeingabletosingbeforerobbers，asisthecasewiththewriterofthepresent。
AlittlewayoutofthelandofGoshenwecameuponalongstretchofgardensandvineyards，slantingtowardsthesettingsun，whichilluminatednumberlessgoldenclustersofthemostdeliciousgrapes，ofwhichwestoppedandpartook。Suchgrapeswereneverbeforetasted；watersofreshasthatwhichacountrymanfetchedforusfromawellneversluicedparchedthroatsbefore。Itwastheride，thesun，andaboveallAbouGosh，whomadethatrefreshmentsosweet，andherebyIofferhimmybestthanks。
Presently，inthemidstofamostdiabolicalravine，downwhichourhorseswentsliding，weheardtheeveninggun：itwasfiredfromJerusalem。Thetwilightisbriefinthiscountry，andinafewminutesthelandscapewasgreyroundaboutus，andtheskylightedupbyahundredthousandstars，whichmadethenightbeautiful。
Underthissuperbcanopywerodeforacoupleofhourstoourjourney’send。Themountainsroundaboutusdark，lonely，andsad；
thelandscapeaswesawitatnight（itisnotmorecheerfulinthedaytime），themostsolemnandforlornIhaveeverseen。Thefeelingsofalmostterrorwithwhich，ridingthroughthenight，weapproachedthisawfulplace，thecentreoftheworld’spastandfuturehistory，havenoneedtobenoteddownhere。Therecollectionofthosesensationsmustremainwithamanaslongashismemorylasts；andheshouldthinkofthemasoften，perhaps，asheshouldtalkofthemlittle。
CHAPTERXIII：JERUSALEM
TheladiesofourpartyfoundexcellentquartersinreadinessforthemattheGreekconventinthecity；whereairyrooms，andplentifulmeals，andwinesandsweet-meatsdelicateandabundant，wereprovidedtocheerthemafterthefatiguesoftheirjourney。I
don’tknowwhethertheworthyfathersoftheconventshareinthegoodthingswhichtheylavishontheirguests；buttheylookasiftheydo。Thosewhomwesawboreeverysignofeasyconscienceandgoodliving；therewereapairofstrong，rosy，greasy，lazylay-
brothers，dawdlinginthesunontheconventterrace，orpeeringovertheparapetintothestreetbelow，whoselooksgaveoneanotionofanythingbutasceticism。
Intheprincipalroomofthestrangers’house（thelaytravellerisnotadmittedtodwellinthesacredinterioroftheconvent），andoverthebuilding，theRussiandouble-headedeagleisdisplayed。
TheplaceisunderthepatronageoftheEmperorNicholas；anImperialPrincehasstayedintheserooms；theRussianconsulperformsagreatpartinthecity；andaconsiderableannualstipendisgivenbytheEmperortowardsthemaintenanceofthegreatestablishmentinJerusalem。TheGreatChapeloftheChurchoftheHolySepulchreisbyfartherichest，inpointoffurniture，ofalltheplacesofworshipunderthatroof。WewereinRussia，whenwecametovisitourfriendshere；undertheprotectionoftheFatheroftheChurchandtheImperialEagle！Thisbutcherandtyrant，whositsonhisthroneonlythroughthecrimeofthosewhohelditbeforehim——everystepinwhosepedigreeisstainedbysomehorriblemarkofmurder，parricide，adultery——thispaddedandwhiskeredpontiff——whorulesinhisjack-bootsoverasystemofspiesandsoldiers，ofdeceit，ignorance，dissoluteness，andbruteforce，suchassurelythehistoryoftheworldnevertoldofbefore——hasatenderinterestinthewelfareofhisspiritualchildren：intheEasternChurchranksafterDivinity，andisworshippedbymillionsofmen。ApiousexemplarofChristianitytruly！andoftheconditiontowhichitsunionwithpoliticshasbroughtit！Thinkoftheranktowhichhepretends，andgravelybelievesthathepossesses，nodoubt！——thinkofthosewhoassumedthesameultra-sacredcharacterbeforehim！——andthenoftheBibleandtheFounderoftheReligion，ofwhichtheEmperorassumestobethechiefpriestanddefender！
WehadsomePolesofourparty；butthesepoorfellowswenttotheLatinconvent，decliningtoworshipaftertheEmperor’sfashion。
Thenextnightafterourarrival，twoofthempassedintheSepulchre。Therewesawthem，morethanonceonsubsequentvisits，kneelingintheLatinChurchbeforethepictures，ormarchingsolemnlywithcandlesinprocessions，orlyingflatonthestones，orpassionatelykissingthespotswhichtheirtraditionshaveconsecratedastheauthenticplacesoftheSaviour’ssufferings。
Morehonestormorecivilised，orfromopposition，theLatinfathershavelonggivenupanddisownedthedisgustingmummeryoftheEasternFire——whichlietheGreekscontinueannuallytotell。
Theirtravellers’houseandconvent，thoughlargeandcommodious，areofamuchpoorerandshabbierconditionthanthoseoftheGreeks。Bothmakebelievenottotakemoney；butthetravellerisexpectedtopayineach。TheLatinfathersenlargetheirmeansbyalittleharmlesstradeinbeadsandcrosses，andmother-of-pearlshells，onwhichfiguresofsaintsareengraved；andwhichtheypurchasefromthemanufacturers，andvendatasmallprofit。TheEnglish，untiloflate，usedtobequarteredintheseshaminns；
butlastyeartwoorthreeMaltesetookhousesforthereceptionoftourists，whocannowbeaccommodatedwithcleanlyandcomfortableboard，ataratenottooheavyformostpockets。
Tooneofthesewewentverygladly；givingourhorsesthebridleatthedoor，whichwentoffoftheirownwilltotheirstables，throughthedarkinextricablelabyrinthsofstreets，archways，andalleys，whichwehadthreadedafterleavingthemainstreetfromtheJaffaGate。There，therewasstillsomelife。Numbersofpersonswerecollectedattheirdoors，orsmokingbeforethedingycoffee-houses，wheresingingandstory-tellingweregoingon；butoutofthisgreatstreeteverythingwassilent，andnosignofalightfromthewindowsofthelowhouseswhichwepassed。
Weascendedfromalowerflooruptoaterrace，onwhichwereseverallittledomedchambers，orpavilions。Fromthisterrace，whencewelookedinthemorning，agreatpartofthecityspreadbeforeus：-whitedomesupondomes，andterracesofthesamecharacterasourown。Hereandthere，fromamongthesewhitewashedmoundsroundabout，aminaretrose，orararedate-tree；butthechiefpartofthevegetationnearwasthatodioustreethepricklypear，——onehugegreenwartgrowingoutofanother，armedwithspikes，asinhospitableasthealoe，withoutshelterorbeauty。TotherighttheMosqueofOmarrose；therisingsunbehindit。
Yondersteeptortuouslanebeforeus，flankedbyruinedwallsoneitherside，hasborne，timeoutofmind，thetitleofViaDolorosa；andtraditionhasfixedthespotswheretheSaviourrested，bearinghiscrosstoCalvary。Butofthemountain，risingimmediatelyinfrontofus，afewgreyolive-treesspecklingtheyellowsidehereandthere，therecanbenoquestion。ThatistheMountofOlives。Bethanyliesbeyondit。Themostsacredeyesthateverlookedonthisworldhavegazedonthoseridges：itwasthereHeusedtowalkandteach。WithshameandhumilityonelookstowardsthespotwherethatinexpressibleLoveandBenevolencelivedandbreathed；wherethegreatyearningheartoftheSaviourintercededforallourrace；andwhencethebigotsandtraitorsofhisdayledHimawaytokillHim！
ThatcompanyofJewswhomwehadbroughtwithusfromConstantinople，andwhohadcursedeverydelayontheroute，notfromimpatiencetoviewtheHolyCity，butfromrageatbeingobligedtopurchasedearprovisionsfortheirmaintenanceonship-
board，madewhatbargainstheybestcouldatJaffa，andjourneyedtotheValleyofJehoshaphatatthecheapestrate。WesawthetallformoftheoldPolishPatriarch，venerableinfilth，stalkingamongthestinkingruinsoftheJewishquarter。TheslyoldRabbi，inthegreasyfoldinghat，whowouldnotpaytoshelterhischildrenfromthestormoffBeyrout，greetedusinthebazaars；theyoungerRabbiswerefurbishedupwithsomesmartness。WemetthemonSundayatthekindofpromenadebythewallsoftheBethlehemGate；theywereincompanyofsomered-beardedco-religionists，smartlyattiredinEasternraiment；buttheirvoicewasthevoiceoftheJewsofBerlin，andofcourseaswepassedtheyweretalkingaboutsomanyhundertthaler。Youmaytrackoneofthepeople，andbesuretohearmentionofthatsilvercalfthattheyworship。
TheEnglishmissionhasbeenveryunsuccessfulwiththesereligionists。Idon’tbelievetheEpiscopalapparatus——thechaplains，andthecolleges，andthebeadles——havesucceededinconvertingadozenofthem；andasortofmartyrdomisinstoreforthelucklessHebrewsatJerusalemwhoshallsecedefromtheirfaith。Theiroldcommunityspurnthemwithhorror；andIheardofthecaseofoneunfortunateman，whosewife，inspiteofherhusband’schangeofcreed，beingresolved，likeatruewoman，tocleavetohim，wasspiritedawayfromhiminhisabsence；waskeptinprivacyinthecity，inspiteofallexertionsofthemission，oftheconsulandthebishop，andthechaplainsandthebeadles；
waspassedawayfromJerusalemtoBeyrout，andthencetoConstantinople；andfromConstantinoplewaswhiskedoffintotheRussianterritories，whereshestillpinesafterherhusband。Maythatunhappyconvertfindconsolationawayfromher。Icouldnothelpthinking，asmyinformant，anexcellentandaccomplishedgentlemanofthemission，toldmethestory，thattheJewshaddoneonlywhattheChristiansdounderthesamecircumstances。ThewomanwasthedaughterofamostlearnedRabbi，asIgathered。
SupposethedaughteroftheRabbiofExeter，orCanterbury，weretomarryamanwhoturnedJew，wouldnotherRightReverendFatherbejustifiedintakingheroutofthepowerofapersonlikelytohurlhersoultoperdition？ThesepoorconvertsshouldsurelybesentawaytoEnglandoutofthewayofpersecution。Wecouldnotbutfeelapityforthem，astheysatthereontheirbenchesinthechurchconspicuous；andthoughtofthescornandcontumelywhichattendedthemwithout，astheypassed，intheirEuropeandressesandshavenbeards，amongtheirgrisly，scowling，long-robedcountrymen。
AselsewhereinthetownsIhaveseen，theGhettoofJerusalemispre-eminentinfilth。Thepeoplearegatheredroundaboutthedung-gateofthecity。OfaFridayyoumayheartheirwailingsandlamentationsforthelostgloriesoftheircity。IthinktheValleyofJehoshaphatisthemostghastlysightIhaveseenintheworld。Fromallquarterstheycomehithertoburytheirdead。
Whenhistimeiscomeyonderhoaryoldmiser，withwhomwemadeourvoyage，willlayhiscarcasetoresthere。Todothat，andtoclawtogethermoney，hasbeenthepurposeofthatstrangelonglife。
Webroughtwithusoneofthegentlemenofthemission，aHebrewconvert，theRev。Mr。E-；andlestIshouldbesupposedtospeakwithdisrespectaboveofanyoftheconvertsoftheHebrewfaith，letmementionthisgentlemanastheonlyonewhomIhadthefortunetomeetontermsofintimacy。Ineversawamanwhoseoutwardconductwasmoretouching，whosesinceritywasmoreevident，andwhosereligiousfeelingseemedmoredeep，real，andreasonable。
Onlyafewfeetoff，thewallsoftheAnglicanChurchofJerusalemriseupfromtheirfoundationsonapicturesqueopenspot，infrontoftheBethlehemGate。TheEnglishBishophashischurchhardby：
andnearitisthehousewheretheChristiansofourdenominationassembleandworship。
Thereseemtobepolyglotserviceshere。Isawbooksofprayer，orScripture，inHebrew，Greek，andGerman：inwhichlatterlanguageDr。AlexanderpreacheseverySunday。Agentlemanwhosatnearmeatchurchusedallthesebooksindifferently；readingthefirstlessonfromtheHebrewbook，andthesecondfromtheGreek。HereweallassembledontheSundayafterourarrival：itwasaffectingtohearthemusicandlanguageofourcountrysoundinginthisdistantplace；tohavethedecentandmanlyceremonialofourservice；theprayersdeliveredinthatnoblelanguage。Eventhatstoutanti-prelatist，theAmericanconsul，whohaslefthishouseandfortuneinAmericainordertowitnessthecomingoftheMillennium，whobelievesittobesonearthathehasbroughtadovewithhimfromhisnativeland（whichbirdhesolemnlyinformeduswastosurvivetheexpectedAdvent），wasaffectedbythegoodoldwordsandservice。Heswayedaboutandmoanedinhisplaceatvariouspassages；duringthesermonhegaveespecialmarksofsympathyandapprobation。IneverheardtheservicemoreexcellentlyandimpressivelyreadthanbytheBishop’schaplain，Mr。Veitch。ButitwasthemusicthatwasmosttouchingI
thought，——thesweetoldsongsofhome。
Therewasaconsiderablecompanyassembled：nearahundredpeopleIshouldthink。Ourpartymadealargeadditiontotheusualcongregation。TheBishop’sfamilyisproverbiallynumerous：theconsul，andthegentlemenofthemission，havewives，andchildren，andEnglishestablishments。These，andthestrangers，occupiedplacesdowntheroom，totherightandleftofthedeskandcommunion-table。Theconverts，andthemembersofthecollege，inratherascantynumber，facedtheofficiatingclergyman；beforewhomthesilvermacesofthejanissariesweresetup，astheysetupthebeadles’macesinEngland。
ImademanywalksroundthecitytoOlivetandBethany，tothetombsofthekings，andthefountainssacredinstory。Thesearegreenandfresh，butalltherestofthelandscapeseemedtometobeFRIGHTFUL。Parchedmountains，withagreybleakolive-treetremblinghereandthere；savageravinesandvalleys，pavedwithtombstones——alandscapeunspeakablyghastlyanddesolate，meettheeyewhereveryouwanderroundaboutthecity。TheplaceseemsquiteadaptedtotheeventswhicharerecordedintheHebrewhistories。Itandthey，asitseemstome，canneverberegardedwithoutterror。Fearandblood，crimeandpunishment，followfrompagetopageinfrightfulsuccession。Thereisnotaspotatwhichyoulook，butsomeviolentdeedhasbeendonethere：somemassacrehasbeencommitted，somevictimhasbeenmurdered，someidolhasbeenworshippedwithbloodyanddreadfulrites。NotfarfromhenceistheplacewheretheJewishconquerorfoughtforthepossessionofJerusalem。\"Thesunstoodstill，andhastednottogodownaboutawholeday；\"sothattheJewsmighthavedaylighttodestroytheAmorites，whoseiniquitieswerefull，andwhoselandtheywereabouttooccupy。Thefugitiveheathenking，andhisallies，werediscoveredintheirhiding-place，andhanged：\"andthechildrenofJudahsmoteJerusalemwiththeedgeofthesword，andsetthecityonfire；andtheyleftnoneremaining，bututterlydestroyedallthatbreathed。\"
IwentoutattheZionGate，andlookedattheso-calledtombofDavid。IhadbeenreadingallthemorninginthePsalms，andhishistoryinSamuelandKings。\"BringthoudownShimei’shoarheadtothegravewithblood，\"arethelastwordsofthedyingmonarchasrecordedbythehistory。Whattheycallthetombisnowacrumblingoldmosque；fromwhichJewandChristianareexcludedalike。AsIsawit，blazinginthesunshine，withthepurpleskybehindit，theglareonlyservedtomarkthesurroundingdesolationmoreclearly。Thelonelywallsandtowersofthecityrosehardby。Drearymountains，anddeclivitiesofnakedstones，wereroundabout：theyareburrowedwithholesinwhichChristianhermitslivedanddied。Youseeonegreenplacefardowninthevalley：
itiscalledEnRogel。Adonijahfeastedthere，whowaskilledbyhisbrotherSolomon，foraskingforAbishagforwife。TheValleyofHinnomskirtsthehill：thedismalravinewasafruitfulgardenonce。Ahaz，andtheidolatrouskings，sacrificedtoidolsunderthegreentreesthere，and\"causedtheirchildrentopassthroughthefire。\"Onthemountainopposite，Solomon，withthethousandwomenofhisharem，worshippedthegodsofalltheirnations，\"Ashtoreth，\"and\"Milcom，andMolech，theabominationoftheAmmonites。\"Anenormouscharnel-housestandsonthehillwherethebodiesofdeadpilgrimsusedtobethrown；andcommonbeliefhasfixeduponthisspotastheAceldama，whichJudaspurchasedwiththepriceofhistreason。Thusyougoonfromonegloomyplacetoanother，eachsearedwithitsbloodytradition。YonderistheTemple，andyouthinkofTitus’ssoldierystormingitsflamingporches，andenteringthecity，inthesavagedefenceofwhichtwomillionhumansoulsperished。ItwasonMountZionthatGodfreyandTancredhadtheircamp：whentheCrusadersenteredthemosque，theyrodeknee-deepinthebloodofitsdefenders，andofthewomenandchildrenwhohadfledthitherforrefuge：itwasthevictoryofJoshuaoveragain。Then，afterthreedaysofbutchery，theypurifiedthedesecratedmosqueandwenttoprayer。InthecentreofthishistoryofcrimerisesuptheGreatMurderofall……
Ineedsaynomoreaboutthisgloomylandscape。Afteramanhasseenitonce，heneverforgetsit——therecollectionofitseemstometofollowhimlikearemorse，asitweretoimplicatehimintheawfuldeedwhichwasdonethere。Oh！withwhatunspeakableshameandterrorshouldonethinkofthatcrime，andprostratehimselfbeforetheimageofthatDivineBlessedSufferer！
OfcoursethefirstvisitofthetravelleristothefamousChurchoftheSepulchre。
Inthearchway，leadingfromthestreettothecourtandchurch，thereisalittlebazaarofBethlehemites，whomustinterfereconsiderablywiththecommerceoftheLatinfathers。Thesemenbawltoyoufromtheirstalls，andholdupforyourpurchasetheirdevotionalbaubles，——bushelsofrosariesandscentedbeads，andcarvedmother-of-pearlshells，andrudestonesalt-cellarsandfigures。Nowthatinnsareestablished——envoysofthesepedlarsattendthemonthearrivalofstrangers，squatalldayontheterracesbeforeyourdoor，andpatientlyentreatyoutobuyoftheirgoods。Someworthiestherearewhodriveagoodtradebytattooingpilgrimswiththefivecrosses，thearmsofJerusalem；
underwhichthenameofthecityispuncturedinHebrew，withtheauspiciousyearoftheHadji’svisit。Severalofourfellow-
travellerssubmittedtothisqueeroperation，andwillcarrytotheirgravethisrelicoftheirjourney。SomeofthemhadengagedasservantamanatBeyrout，whohadservedasaladonboardanEnglishshipintheMediterranean。Abovehistattooageofthefivecrosses，thefellowhadapictureoftwoheartsunited，andthepatheticmotto，\"Betsymydear。\"HehadpartedwithBetsymydearfiveyearsbeforeatMalta。HehadknownalittleEnglishthere，buthadforgottenit。Betsymydearwasforgottentoo。Onlyhernameremainedengravedwithavainsimulacrumofconstancyonthefaithlessrogue’sskin：onwhichwasnowprintedanothertokenofequallyeffectualdevotion。Thebeadsandthetattooing，however，seemessentialceremoniesattendantontheChristianpilgrim’svisit；formanyhundredsofyears，doubtless，thepalmershavecarriedoffwiththemthesesimplereminiscencesofthesacredcity。ThatsymbolhasbeenengravenuponthearmsofhowmanyPrinces，Knights，andCrusaders！Don’tyouseeamoralasapplicabletothemastotheswindlingBeyrouthorseboy？Ihavebroughtyoubackthatcheapandwholesomeapologue，inlieuofanyoftheBethlehemiteshellsandbeads。
Afterpassingthroughtheporchofthepedlars，youcometothecourtyardinfrontofthenobleoldtowersoftheChurchoftheSepulchre，withpointedarchesandGothictraceries，rude，butrichandpicturesqueindesign。Herecrowdsarewaitinginthesun，untilitshallpleasetheTurkishguardiansofthechurch-doortoopen。Aswarmofbeggarssitherepermanently：oldtatteredhagswithlongveils，raggedchildren，blindoldbeardedbeggars，whoraiseupachorusofprayersformoney，holdingouttheirwoodenbowls，orclatteringwiththeirsticksonthestones，orpullingyourcoat-skirtsandmoaningandwhining；yondersitagroupofcoal-blackCoptishpilgrims，withrobesandturbansofdarkblue，fumblingtheirperpetualbeads。ApartyofArabChristianshavecomeupfromtheirtentsorvillages：themenhalf-naked，lookingasiftheywerebeggars，orbanditti，uponoccasion；thewomenhaveflungtheirhead-clothsback，andarelookingatthestrangersundertheirtattooedeyebrows。Asforthestrangers，thereisnoneedtodescribeTHEM：thatfigureoftheEnglishman，withhishandsinhispockets，hasbeenseenalltheworldover：staringdownthecraterofVesuvius，orintoaHottentotkraal——oratapyramid，oraParisiancoffee-house，oranEsquimauxhut——withthesameinsolentcalmnessofdemeanour。Whenthegatesofthechurchareopen，heelbowsinamongthefirst，andflingsafewscornfulpiastrestotheTurkishdoor-keeper；andgazesroundeasilyattheplace，inwhichpeopleofeveryothernationintheworldareintears，orinrapture，orwonder。Hehasneverseentheplaceuntilnow，andlooksasindifferentastheTurkishguardianwhositsinthedoorway，andswearsatthepeopleastheypourin。
Indeed，IbelieveitisimpossibleforustocomprehendthesourceandnatureoftheRomanCatholicdevotion。IoncewentintoachurchatRomeattherequestofaCatholicfriend，whodescribedtheinteriortobesobeautifulandglorious，thathethought（hesaid）itmustbelikeheavenitself。Ifoundwallshungwithcheapstripesofpinkandwhitecalico，altarscoveredwithartificialflowers，anumberofwaxcandles，andplentyofgilt-paperornaments。Theplaceseemedtomelikeashabbytheatre；andherewasmyfriendonhiskneesatmyside，plungedinaraptureofwonderanddevotion。
Icouldgetnobetterimpressionoutofthisthemostfamouschurchintheworld。Thedeceitsaretooopenandflagrant；theinconsistenciesandcontrivancestoomonstrous。Itishardeventosympathisewithpersonswhoreceivethemasgenuine；andthough（asIknowandsawinthecaseofmyfriendatRome）thebeliever’slifemaybepassedinthepurestexerciseoffaithandcharity，itisdifficulteventogivehimcreditforhonesty，sobarefacedseemtheimpostureswhichheprofessestobelieveandreverence。ItcostsonenosmallefforteventoadmitthepossibilityofaCatholic’scredulity：toshareinhisraptureanddevotionisstillfurtheroutofyourpower；andIcouldgetfromthischurchnootheremotionsbutthoseofshameandpain。
ThelegendswithwhichtheGreeksandLatinshavegarnishedthespothavenomoresacrednessforyouthanthehideous，unreal，barbaricpicturesandornamentswhichtheyhavelavishedonit。
LookatthefervourwithwhichpilgrimskissandweepoveratawdryGothicpainting，scarcelybetterfashionedthananidolinaSouthSeaMorai。Thehistorieswhichtheyarecalledupontoreverenceareofthesameperiodandorder，——savageGothiccaricatures。Ineitherasaintappearsinthecostumeofthemiddleages，andismadetoaccommodatehimselftothefashionofthetenthcentury。
Thedifferentchurchesbattleforthepossessionofthevariousrelics。TheGreeksshowyoutheTombofMelchisedec，whiletheArmenianspossesstheChapelofthePenitentThief；thepoorCopts（withtheirlittlecabinofachapel）canyetboastofpossessingthethicketinwhichAbrahamcaughttheRam，whichwastoserveasthevicarofIsaac；theLatinspointoutthePillartowhichtheLordwasbound。TheplaceoftheInventionoftheSacredCross，theFissureintheRockofGolgotha，theTombofAdamhimself——areallherewithinafewyards’space。Youmountafewsteps，andaretolditisCalvaryuponwhichyoustand。Allthisinthemidstofblaringcandles，reekingincense，savagepicturesofScripturestory，orportraitsofkingswhohavebeenbenefactorstothevariouschapels；adinandclatterofstrangepeople，——theseweeping，bowing，kissing，——thoseutterlyindifferent；andthepriestscladinoutlandishrobes，snufflingandchantingincomprehensiblelitanies，robing，disrobing，lightingupcandlesorextinguishingthem，advancing，retreating，bowingwithallsortsofunfamiliargenuflexions。HaditpleasedtheinventorsoftheSepulchretopographytohavefixedonfiftymorespotsofgroundastheplacesoftheeventsofthesacredstory，thepilgrimwouldhavebelievedjustasnow。Thepriest’sauthorityhassomasteredhisfaith，thatitaccommodatesitselftoanydemanduponit；andtheEnglishstrangerlooksonthescene，forthefirsttime，withafeelingofscorn，bewilderment，andshameatthatgrovellingcredulity，thosestrangeritesandceremonies，thatalmostconfessedimposture。
Jarredanddistractedbythese，theChurchoftheHolySepulchre，forsometime，seemstoanEnglishmantheleastsacredspotaboutJerusalem。Itisthelies，andthelegends，andthepriests，andtheirquarrels，andtheirceremonies，whichkeeptheHolyPlaceoutofsight。Amanhasnotleisuretoviewit，forthebrawlingoftheguardiansofthespot。TheRomanconquerors，theysay，raisedupastatueofVenusinthissacredplace，intendingtodestroyallmemoryofit。Idon’tthinktheheathenwasascriminalastheChristianisnow。Todenyanddisbelieve，isnotsobadastomakebeliefagroundtocheatupon。TheliarAnaniasperishedforthat；
andyetoutofthesegates，whereangelsmayhavekeptwatch——outofthetombofChrist——Christianpriestsissuewithalieintheirhands。Whataplacetochooseforimposture，goodGod！tosullywithbrutalstrugglesforself-aggrandisementorshamefulschemesofgain！
ThesituationoftheTomb（intowhich，beitauthenticornot，nomancanenterwithoutashockofbreathlessfear，anddeepandawfulself-humiliation）musthavestruckalltravellers。Itstandsinthecentreofthearchedrotunda，whichiscommontoalldenominations，andfromwhichbranchoffthevariouschapelsbelongingtoeachparticularsect。IntheCopticchapelIsawonecoal-blackCopt，inbluerobes，coweringinthelittlecabin，surroundedbydingylamps，barbarouspictures，andcheapfadedtrumpery。IntheLatinChurchtherewasnoservicegoingon，onlytwofathersdustingthemouldygewgawsalongthebrownwalls，andlaughingtooneanother。ThegorgeouschurchoftheFireimpostors，hardby，wasalwaysmorefullyattended；aswasthatoftheirwealthyneighbours，theArmenians。Thesethreemainsectshateeachother；theirquarrelsareinterminable；eachbribesandintrigueswiththeheathenlordsofthesoil，totheprejudiceofhisneighbour。NowitistheLatinswhointerfere，andallowthecommonchurchtogotoruin，becausetheGreekspurposetoroofit；
nowtheGreeksdemolishamonasteryonMountOlivet，andleavethegroundtotheTurks，ratherthanallowtheArmenianstopossessit。
Onanotheroccasion，theGreekshavingmendedtheArmenianstepswhichleadtothe（so-called）CaveoftheNativityatBethlehem，thelatteraskedforpermissiontodestroytheworkoftheGreeks，anddidso。Andsoroundthissacredspot，thecentreofChristendom，therepresentativesofthethreegreatsectsworshipunderoneroof，andhateeachother！
AbovetheTomboftheSaviour，thecupolaisOPEN，andyouseetheblueskyoverhead。WhichofthebuilderswasitthathadthegracetoleavethatunderthehighprotectionofHeaven，andnotconfineitunderthemoulderingolddomesandroofs，whichcoversomuchselfishness，anduncharitableness，andimposture？
WewenttoBethlehem，too；andsawtheapocryphalwondersthere。
Fivemiles’ridebringsyoufromJerusalemtoit，overnakedwavyhills；theaspectofwhich，however，growsmorecheerfulasyouapproachthefamousvillage。WepassedtheConventofMarElyasontheroad，walledandbarredlikeafort。Inspiteofitsstrength，however，ithasmorethanoncebeenstormedbytheArabs，andthelucklessfatherswithinputtodeath。HardbywasRebecca’sWell：
adeadbodywaslyingthere，andcrowdsofmaleandfemalemournersdancingandhowlingroundit。Nowandthenalittletroopofsavagescowlinghorsemen——ashepherddrivinghisblacksheep，hisgunoverhisshoulder——atroopofcamels——orofwomen，withlongbluerobesandwhiteveils，bearingpitchers，andstaringatthestrangerswiththeirgreatsolemneyes——oracompanyoflabourers，withtheirdonkeys，bearinggrainorgrapestothecity，——metusandenlivenedthelittleride。Itwasabusyandcheerfulscene。
TheChurchoftheNativity，withtheadjoiningconvents，formsavastandnobleChristianstructure。ApartyoftravellersweregoingtotheJordanthatday，andscoresoftheirfollowers——oftherobbingArabs，whoprofesstoprotectthem（magnificentfiguressomeofthem，withflowinghaicksandturbans，withlonggunsandscimitars，andwretchedhorses，coveredwithgaudytrappings），werestandingonthebroadpavementbeforethelittleconventgate。ItwassuchasceneasCattermolemightpaint。KnightsandCrusadersmayhavewitnessedasimilarone。Youcouldfancythemissuingoutofthenarrowlittleportal，andsogreetedbytheswarmsofswarthyclamorouswomenandmerchantsandchildren。
ThescenewithinthebuildingwasofthesameGothiccharacter。WewereentertainedbytheSuperioroftheGreekConvent，inafinerefectory，withceremoniesandhospitalitiesthatpilgrimsofthemiddleagesmighthavewitnessed。WewereshownoverthemagnificentBarbaricChurch，visitedofcoursetheGrottowheretheBlessedNativityissaidtohavetakenplace，andtherestoftheidolssetupforworshipbytheclumsylegend。Whenthevisitwasconcluded，thepartygoingtotheDeadSeafiledoffwiththeirarmedattendants；eachindividualtravellermakingasbraveashowashecould，andpersonallyaccoutredwithwarlikeswordsandpistols。Thepicturesquecrowds，andtheArabsandthehorsemen，inthesunshine；thenobleoldconvent，andthegrey-beardedpriests，withtheirfeast；andthechurch，anditspicturesandcolumns，andincense；thewidebrownhillsspreadingroundthevillage；withtheaccidentsoftheroad，——flocksandshepherds，wellsandfunerals，andcamel-trains，——haveleftonmymindabrilliant，romantic，andcheerfulpicture。Butyou，dearM-，withoutvisitingtheplace，haveimaginedonefarfiner；andBethlehem，wheretheHolyChildwasborn，andtheangelssang，\"GlorytoGodinthehighest，andonearthpeaceandgoodwilltowardsmen，\"isthemostsacredandbeautifulspotintheearthtoyou。
ByfarthemostcomfortablequartersinJerusalemarethoseoftheArmenians，intheirconventofSt。James。Whereverwehavebeen，theseEasternquakerslookgrave，andjolly，andsleek。TheirconventatMountZionisbigenoughtocontaintwoorthreethousandoftheirfaithful；andtheirchurchisornamentedbythemostrichandhideousgiftseverdevisedbyuncouthpiety。Insteadofabell，thefatmonksoftheconventbeathugenoisesonaboard，anddrubthefaithfulintoprayers。Ineversawmenmorelazyandrosythanthesereverendfathers，kneelingintheircomfortablemattedchurch，orsittingineasydevotion。Pictures，images，gilding，tinsel，waxcandles，twinkleallovertheplace；
andtenthousandostrichs’eggs（oranylessernumberyoumayallot）danglefromthevaultedceiling。Thereweregreatnumbersofpeopleatworshipinthisgorgeouschurch：theywentontheirknees，kissingthewallswithmuchfervour，andpayingreverencetothemostpreciousrelicoftheconvent，——thechairofSt。James，theirpatron，thefirstBishopofJerusalem。
ThechairpointedoutwithgreatestprideinthechurchoftheLatinConvent，isthatshabbyreddamaskoneappropriatedtotheFrenchConsul，——therepresentativeoftheKingofthatnation，——andtheprotectionwhichithasfromtimeimmemorialaccordedtotheChristiansoftheLatinriteinSyria。AllFrenchwritersandtravellersspeakofthisprotectionwithdelightfulcomplacency。
ConsulttheFrenchbooksoftravelonthesubject，andanyFrenchmanwhomyoumaymeet：hesays，\"LaFrance，Monsieur，detouslestempsprotegelesChretiensd’Orient；\"andthelittlefellowlooksroundthechurchwithasweepofthearm，andprotectsitaccordingly。Itisbontonforthemtogoinprocessions；andyouseethemonsucherrands，marchingwithlongcandles，asgravelyasmaybe。ButIhaveneverbeenabletoedifymyselfwiththeirdevotion；andthereligiousoutpouringsofLamartineandChateaubriand，whichwehaveallbeenreadingaproposofthejourneywearetomake，haveinspiredmewithanemotionanythingbutrespectful。\"VoyezcommeM。deChateaubriandprieDieu，\"theViscount’seloquenceseemsalwaystosay。ThereisasanctifiedgrimaceaboutthelittleFrenchpilgrimwhichitisverydifficulttocontemplategravely。
Thepictures，images，andornamentsoftheprincipalLatinconventarequitemeanandpoor，comparedtothewealthoftheArmenians。
Theconventisspacious，butsqualid。Manyhoppingandcrawlingplaguesaresaidtoattacktheskinsofpilgrimswhosleepthere。
Itislaidoutincourtsandgalleries，themouldydoorsofwhicharedecoratedwithtwopennypicturesoffavouritesaintsandmartyrs；andsogreatistheshabbinessandlaziness，thatyoumightfancyyourselfinaconventinItaly。Brown-cladfathers，dirty，bearded，andsallow，goglidingaboutthecorridors。Therelicmanufactorybeforementionedcarriesonaconsiderablebusiness，anddespatchesbalesofshells，crosses，andbeadstobelieversinEurope。Theseconstitutethechiefrevenueoftheconventnow。LaFranceisnolongerthemostChristiankingdom，andherprotectionoftheLatinsisnotgoodformuchsinceCharlesX。wasexpelled；andSpain，whichusedlikewisetobegenerousonoccasions（thegifts，arms，candlesticks，baldaquinsoftheSpanishsovereignsfigureprettyfrequentlyinthevariousLatinchapels），hasbeenstingysincethelatedisturbances，thespoliationoftheclergy，&c。Afterwehadbeentakentoseethehumblecuriositiesoftheplace，thePriortreatedusinhiswoodenparlourwithlittleglassesofpinkRosolio，broughtwithmanybowsandgenuflexionsbyhisreverencetheconventbutler。
Afterthiscommunityofholymen，themostimportantperhapsistheAmericanConvent，aProtestantcongregationofIndependentschiefly，whodelivertracts，proposetomakeconverts，havemeetingsoftheirown，andalsoswellthelittlecongregationthatattendstheAnglicanservice。Ihavementionedourfellow-
traveller，theConsul-GeneralforSyriaoftheUnitedStates。Hewasatradesman，whohadmadeaconsiderablefortune，andlivedatacountry-houseincomfortableretirement。Buthisopinionis，thatthepropheciesofScriptureareabouttobeaccomplished；thatthedayofthereturnoftheJewsisathand，andtheglorificationoftherestoredJerusalem。Heistowitnessthis——heandafavouritedovewithwhichhetravels；andheforsookhomeandcomfortablecountry-house，inordertomakethisjourney。HehasnootherknowledgeofSyriabutwhathederivesfromtheprophecy；
andthis（ashetakestheofficegratis）hasbeenconsideredasufficientreasonforhisappointmentbytheUnitedStatesGovernment。Assoonashearrived，hesentanddemandedaninterviewwiththePasha；explainedtohimhisinterpretationoftheApocalypse，inwhichhehasdiscoveredthattheFivePowersandAmericaareabouttointerveneinSyrianaffairs，andtheinfalliblereturnoftheJewstoPalestine。ThenewsmusthaveastonishedtheLieutenantoftheSublimePorte；andsincethedaysoftheKingdomofMunster，underhisAnabaptistMajesty，JohnofLeyden，IdoubtwhetheranyGovernmenthasreceivedorappointedsoqueeranambassador。Thekind，worthy，simplemantookmetohistemporaryconsulate-houseattheAmericanMissionaryEstablishment；
and，underpretenceoftreatingmetowhitewine，expoundedhisideas；talkedoffuturityashewouldaboutanarticleinTheTimes；andhadnomoredoubtofseeingadivinekingdomestablishedinJerusalemthanyouthattherewouldbealeveenextspringatSt。James’s。Thelittleroominwhichwesatwaspaddedwithmissionarytracts，butIheardofscarceanyconverts——notmorethanaremadebyourownEpiscopalestablishment。
Butifthelatter’sreligiousvictoriesaresmall，andveryfewpeopleareinducedbytheAmericantracts，andtheEnglishpreachingandcatechising，toforsaketheirownmannerofworshippingtheDivineBeinginordertofollowours；yetsurelyourreligiouscolonyofmenandwomencan’tfailtodogood，bythesheerforceofgoodexample，purelife，andkindoffices。Theladiesofthemissionhavenumbersofclients，ofallpersuasions，inthetown，towhomtheyextendtheircharities。Eachoftheirhousesisamodelofneatness，andadispensaryofgentlekindnesses；andtheecclesiasticshaveformedamodestcentreofcivilisationintheplace。AdrearyjokewasmadeintheHouseofCommonsaboutBishopAlexanderandtheBishopesshislady，andtheBishoplingshisnumerouschildren，whoweresaidtohavescandalisedthepeopleofJerusalem。ThatsneerevidentlycamefromtheLatinsandGreeks；forwhatcouldtheJewsandTurkscarebecauseanEnglishclergymanhadawifeandchildrenastheirownpriestshave？Therewasnosortofillwillexhibitedtowardsthem，asfarasIcouldlearn；andIsawtheBishop’schildrenridingaboutthetownassafelyastheycouldaboutHydePark。AllEuropeans，indeed，seemedtometobereceivedwithforbearance，andalmostcourtesy，withinthewalls。AsIwasgoingaboutmakingsketches，thepeoplewouldlookonverygood-humouredly，withoutofferingtheleastinterruption；nay，twoorthreewerequitereadytostandstillforsuchanhumbleportraitasmypencilcouldmakeofthem；andthesketchdone，itwaspassedfromonepersontoanother，eachmakinghiscomments，andsignifyingaverypoliteapproval。Hereareapairofthem，{2}FathAllahandAmeenutDaoodeehisfather，horse-dealersbytrade，whocameandsatwithusattheinn，andsmokedpipes（thesunbeingdown），whiletheoriginaloftheabovemasterpiecewasmade。WiththeArabsoutsidethewalls，however，andthefreshlyarrivingcountrypeople，thispolitenesswasnotsomuchexhibited。Therewasacertaintattooedgirl，withblackeyesandhugesilverearrings，andachindelicatelypickedoutwithblue，whoformedoneofagroupofwomenoutsidethegreatconvent，whoselikenessIlongedtocarryoff；——
therewasawomanwithalittlechild，withwonderingeyes，drawingwateratthePoolofSiloam，insuchanattitudeanddressasRebeccamayhavehadwhenIsaac’slieutenantaskedherfordrink：-
bothofthesepartiesstandingstillforhalfaminute，atthenextcriedoutforbacksheesh：andnotcontentwiththefivepiastreswhichIgavethemindividually，screamedoutformore，andsummonedtheirfriends，whoscreamedoutbacksheeshtoo。Iwaspursuedintotheconventbyadozenhowlingwomencallingforpay，barringthedooragainstthem，totheastonishmentoftheworthypapawhokeptit；andatMiriam’sWellthewomenwerejoinedbyamanwithalargestick，whobackedtheirpetition。Buthimwecouldaffordtolaughat，forweweretwoandhadstickslikewise。
InthevillageofSiloamIwouldnotrecommendtheartisttoloiter。Acolonyofruffiansinhabitthedismalplace，whohavegunsaswellassticksatneed。Theirdogshowlafterthestrangersastheypassthrough；andovertheparapetsoftheirwallsyouaresalutedbythescowlsofavillanoussetofcountenances，thatitisnotgoodtoseewithonepairofeyes。
Theyshotamanatmid-dayatafewhundredyardsfromthegateswhilewewereatJerusalem，andnonoticewastakenofthemurder。
HordesofArabrobbersinfesttheneighbourhoodofthecity，withtheSheikhsofwhomtravellersmaketermswhenmindedtopursuetheirjourney。Inevercouldunderstandwhythewallsstoppedthesewarriorsiftheyhadamindtoplunderthecity，fortherearebutahundredandfiftymeninthegarrisontomanthelonglonelylinesofdefence。
IhaveseenonlyinTitian’spicturesthosemagnificentpurpleshadowsinwhichthehillsroundaboutlay，asthedawnrosefaintlybehindthem；andwelookedatOlivetforthelasttimefromourterrace，wherewewereawaitingthearrivalofthehorsesthatweretocarryustoJaffa。Ayellowmoonwasstillblazinginthemidstofcountlessbrilliantstarsoverhead；thenakednessandmiseryofthesurroundingcitywerehiddeninthatbeautifulrosyatmosphereofminglingnightanddawn。Thecityneverlookedsonoble；themosques，domes，andminaretsrisingupintothecalmstar-litsky。
BythegateofBethlehemtherestandsonepalm-tree，andahousewiththreedomes。PuttheseandthehugeoldGothicgateasabackgrounddarkagainsttheyellowingeasternsky：theforegroundisadeepgrey：asyoulookintoitdarkformsofhorsemencomeoutofthetwilight：nowtherecomelanterns，morehorsemen，alitterwithmules，acrowdofArabhorseboysanddealersaccompanyingtheirbeaststothegate；allthemembersofourpartycomeupbytwosandthrees；and，atlast，thegreatgateopensjustbeforesunrise，andwegetintothegreyplains。
Oh！theluxuryofanEnglishsaddle！AnEnglishservantofoneofthegentlemenofthemissionprocureditforme，onthebackofalittlemare，which（asIamalightweight）didnotturnahairinthecourseoftheday’smarch——andafterwegotquitoftheugly，stony，clattering，mountainousAbouGoshdistrict，intothefairundulatingplain，whichstretchestoRamleh，carriedmeintothetownatapleasanthand-gallop。Anegro，ofpreternaturalugliness，inayellowgown，withacrimsonhandkerchiefstreamingoverhishead，digginghisshovelspursintotheleananimalherode，anddrivingthreeothersbefore——swayingbackwardsandforwardsonhishorse，nowembracinghisears，andnowalmostunderhisbelly，screaming\"yallah\"withthemostfrightfulshrieks，andsingingcountrysongs——gallopedalongaheadofme。Iacquiredoneofhispoemsprettywell，andcouldimitatehisshriekaccurately；
butIshallnothavethepleasureofsingingittoyouinEngland。
Ihadforgottenthedelightfuldissonancetwodaysafter，boththenegro’sandthatofarealArabminstrel，adonkey-driveraccompanyingourbaggage，whosangandgrinnedwiththemostamusinggood-humour。
Wehalted，inthemiddleoftheday，inalittlewoodofolive-
trees，whichformsalmosttheonlyshelterbetweenJaffaandJerusalem，exceptthataffordedbytheorchardsintheodiousvillageofAbouGosh，throughwhichwewentatadoublequickpace。
Undertheolives，orupinthebranches，someofourfriendstookasiesta。Ihaveasketchoffourofthemsoemployed。TwoofthemweredeadwithinamonthofthefatalSyrianfever。Butwedidnotknowhownearfatewastousthen。Fireswerelighted，andfowlsandeggsdivided，andteaandcoffeeservedroundintinpanikins，andherewelightedpipes，andsmokedandlaughedatourease。I
believeeverybodywashappytobeoutofJerusalem。TheimpressionIhaveofitnowisoftendayspassedinafever。
WeallfoundquartersintheGreekconventatRamleh，wherethemonksservedusasupperonaterrace，inapleasantsunset；abeautifulandcheerfullandscapestretchingaround；thelandingracefulundulations，thetowersandmosquesrosyinthesunset，withnolackofverdure，especiallyofgracefulpalms。Jaffawasninemilesoff。Aswerodeallthemorningwehadbeenaccompaniedbythesmokeofoursteamer，twentymilesoffatsea。
Theconventisahugecaravanserai；onlythreeorfourmonksdwellinit，theghostlyhotel-keepersoftheplace。Thehorsesweretiedupandfedinthecourtyard，intowhichwerode；aboveweretheliving-rooms，wherethereisaccommodation，notonlyforanunlimitednumberofpilgrims，butforavastandinnumerablehostofhoppingandcrawlingthings，whousuallypersistinpartakingofthetraveller’sbed。Letallthin-skinnedtravellersintheEastbewarnedonnoaccounttotravelwithouttheadmirableinventiondescribedinMr。Fellowes’sbook；nay，possiblyinventedbythatenterprisingandlearnedtraveller。Youmakeasack，ofcalicoorlinen，bigenoughforthebody，appendedtowhichisaclosedchimneyofmuslin，stretchedoutbycanehoops，andfasteneduptoabeam，oragainstthewall。Youkeepasharpeyetoseethatnofleaorbugisonthelook-out，andwhenassuredofthis，youpopintothebag，tightlyclosingtheorificeafteryou。Thisadmirablebug-disappointerItriedatRamleh，andhadtheonlyundisturbednight’srestIenjoyedintheEast。Tobesureitwasashortnight，forourpartywerestirringatoneo’clock，andthosewhogotupinsistedontalkingandkeepingawakethosewhoinclinedtosleep。ButIshallneverforgettheterrorinspiredinmymind，beingshutupinthebug-disappointer，whenafacetiouslay-brotheroftheconventfelluponmeandbeganticklingme。I
neverhadthecourageagaintotrytheanti-fleacontrivance，preferringthefriskinessofthoseanimalstothesportsofsuchagreasygrinningwagasmyfriendatRamleh。
Inthemorning，andlongbeforesunrise，ourlittlecaravanwasinmarchingorderagain。Wewentoutwithlanternsandshoutsof\"yallah\"throughthenarrowstreets，andissuedintotheplain，where，thoughtherewasnomoon，therewereblazingstarsshiningsteadilyoverhead。Theybecomefriendstoamanwhotravels，especiallyundertheclearEasternsky；whencetheylookdownasifprotectingyou，solemn，yellow，andrefulgent。TheyseemnearertoyouthaninEurope；largerandmoreawful。Sowerodeontillthedawnrose，andJaffacameinview。Thefriendlyshipwaslyingoutinwaitingforus；thehorsesweregivenuptotheirowners；andinthemidstofacrowdofnakedbeggars，andaperfectstormofcursesandyellsforbacksheesh，ourpartygotintotheirboats，andtotheship，wherewewerewelcomedbytheverybestcaptainthateversaileduponthismaritimeglobe，namely，CaptainSamuelLewis，ofthePeninsularandOrientalCompany’sService。