Ilikepointingmorals，andinventingformyselfcheapconsolations，toreconcilemetothatstateoflifeintowhichithaspleasedHeaventocallme；andastheLightoftheWorlddisappearedroundthecorner，IreasonedpleasantlywithmyselfaboutHisHighness，andenjoyedthatsecretselfishsatisfactionamanhas，whoseesheisbetteroffthanhisneighbour。\"MichaelAngelo，\"Isaid，\"youarestill（bycourtesy）young：ifyouhadfivehundredthousandayear，andwereagreatprince，Iwouldlayawagerthatmenwoulddiscoverinyouamagnificentcourtesyofdemeanour，andamajesticpresencethatonlybelongstothesovereignsoftheworld。Ifyouhadsuchanincome，youthinkyoucouldspenditwithsplendour：distributinggenialhospitalities，kindlyalms，soothingmisery，biddinghumilitybeofgoodheart，rewardingdesert。Ifyouhadsuchmeansofpurchasingpleasure，youthink，yourogue，youcouldrelishitwithgusto。ButfancybeingbroughttotheconditionofthepoorLightoftheUniverseyonder；andreconcileyourselfwiththeideathatyouareonlyafarthingrushlight。ThecriesofthepoorwidowfallasdeaduponhimasthesmilesofthebrightesteyesoutofGeorgia。Hecan’tstirabroadbutthoseabominablecannonbeginroaringanddeafeninghisears。Hecan’tseetheworldbutovertheshouldersofarowoffatpashas，andeunuchs，withtheirinfernalugliness。Hisearscanneverberegaledwithawordoftruth，orblessedwithanhonestlaugh。Theonlyprivilegeofmanhoodlefttohim，heenjoysbutforamonthintheyear，atthistimeofRamazan，whenheisforcedtofastforfifteenhours；and，byconsequence，hastheblessingoffeelinghungry。\"SunsetduringLentappearstobehissinglemomentofpleasure；theysaythepoorfellowisravenousbythattime，andasthegunfiresthedish-coversaretakenoff，sothatforfiveminutesadayhelivesandishappyoverpillau，likeanothermortal。
Andyet，whenfloatingbytheSummerPalace，abarbaricedificeofwoodandmarble，withgildedsunsblazingovertheporticoes，andallsortsofstrangeornamentsandtrophiesfiguringonthegatesandrailings——whenwepassedalongrowofbarredandfiligreedwindows，lookingonthewater——whenweweretoldthatthoseweretheapartmentsofHisHighness’sladies，andactuallyheardthemwhisperingandlaughingbehindthebars——astrangefeelingofcuriositycameoversomeill-regulatedminds——justtohaveonepeep，onelookatallthosewondrousbeauties，singingtothedulcimers，paddlinginthefountains，dancinginthemarblehalls，orlollingonthegoldencushions，asthegaudyblackslavesbroughtpipesandcoffee。Thistumultuousmovementwascalmedbythinkingofthatdreadfulstatementoftravellers，thatinoneofthemosteleganthallsthereisatrap-door，onpeepingbelowwhichyoumayseetheBosphorusrunningunderneath，intowhichsomelucklessbeautyisplungedoccasionally，andthetrap-doorisshut，andthedancingandthesinging，andthesmokingandthelaughinggoonasbefore。Theysayitisdeathtopickupanyofthesacksthereabouts，ifastrayoneshouldfloatbyyou。TherewerenoneanydaywhenIpassed，ATLEAST，ONTHESURFACEOFTHEWATER。
IthasbeenratherafashionofourtravellerstoapologiseforTurkishlife，oflate，andpaintglowingagreeablepicturesofmanyofitsinstitutions。Thecelebratedauthorof\"Palm-Leaves\"（hisnameisfamousunderthedate-treesoftheNile，andutteredwithrespectbeneaththetentsoftheBedaween）hastouchinglydescribedIbrahimPasha’spaternalfondness，whocutoffablackslave’sheadforhavingdroppedandmaimedoneofhischildren；andhaspennedamelodiouspanegyricof\"TheHarem，\"andofthefondandbeautifuldutiesoftheinmatesofthatplaceoflove，obedience，andseclusion。Isaw，atthemausoleumofthelateSultanMahmoud’sfamily，agoodsubjectforaGhazul，inthetruenewOrientalmanner。
TheseRoyalburial-placesaretheresortofthepiousMoslems。
Lampsarekeptburningthere；andintheantechambers，copiesoftheKoranareprovidedfortheuseofbelievers；andyouneverpassthesecemeteriesbutyouseeTurkswashingatthecisterns，previoustoenteringforprayer，orsquattedonthebenches，chantingpassagesfromthesacredvolume。Christians，Ibelieve，arenotadmitted，butmaylookthroughthebars，andseethecoffinsofthedefunctmonarchsandchildrenoftheRoyalrace。
Eachliesinhisnarrowsarcophagus，whichiscommonlyflankedbyhugecandles，andcoveredwitharichembroideredpall。Attheheadofeachcoffinrisesaslab，withagildedinscription；fortheprincesses，theslabissimple，notunlikeourownmonumentalstones。Theheadstonesofthetombsofthedefunctprincesaredecoratedwithaturban，or，sincetheintroductionofthelatterarticleofdress，withtheredfez。ThatofMahmoudisdecoratedwiththeimperialaigrette。
Inthisdismalbutsplendidmuseum，Iremarkedtwolittletombswithlittleredfezzes，verysmall，andforveryyoungheadsevidently，whichwerelyingunderthelittleembroideredpallsofstate。Iforgetwhethertheyhadcandlestoo；buttheirlittleflameoflifewassoonextinguished，andtherewasnoneedofmanypoundsofwaxtotypifyit。ThesewerethetombsofMahmoud’sgrandsons，nephewsofthepresentLightoftheUniverse，andchildrenofhissister，thewifeofHalilPasha。Littlechildrendieinallways：theseofthemuch-malignedMahometanRoyalraceperishedbythebowstring。SultanMahmoud（mayherestinglory！）
strangledtheone；but，havingsomesparkofhumanfeeling，wassomovedbythewretchednessandagonyofthepoorbereavedmother，hisdaughter，thathisRoyalheartrelentedtowardsher，andhepromisedthat，shouldsheeverhaveanotherchild，itshouldbeallowedtolive。Hedied；andAbdulMedjid（mayhisnamebeblessed！），thedebauchedyoungmanwhomwejustsawridingtothemosque，succeeded。Hissister，whomheissaidtohaveloved，becameagainamother，andhadason。Butsherelieduponherfather’swordandheraugustbrother’slove，andhopedthatthislittleoneshouldbespared。Thesameaccursedhandtorethisinfantoutofitsmother’sbosom，andkilledit。Thepoorwoman’sheartbrokeoutrightatthissecondcalamity，andshedied。Butonherdeath-bedshesentforherbrother，rebukedhimasaperjurerandanassassin，andexpiredcallingdownthedivinejusticeonhishead。Sheliesnowbythesideofthetwolittlefezzes。
NowIsaythiswouldbeafinesubjectforanOrientalpoem。Thedetailsaredramaticandnoble，andcouldbegrandlytouchedbyafineartist。Ifthemotherhadborneadaughter，thechildwouldhavebeensafe；thatperplexitymightbepatheticallydepictedasagitatingthebosomoftheyoungwifeabouttobecomeamother。A
sonisborn：youcanseeherdespairandthepitifullookshecastsonthechild，andthewayinwhichshehugsiteverytimethecurtainsofherdoorareremoved。TheSultanhesitatedprobably；
heallowedtheinfanttoliveforsixweeks。HecouldnotbringhisRoyalsoultoinflictpain。Heyieldsatlast；heisamartyr——
tobepitied，nottobeblamed。Ifhemeltsathisdaughter’sagony，heisamanandafather。Therearemenandfatherstoointhemuch-malignedOrient。
Thencomesthesecondactofthetragedy。Thenewhopes，thefondyearnings，theterrifiedmisgivings，thetimidbelief，andweakconfidence；thechildthatisborn——anddiessmilingprettily——andthemother’sheartisrentso，thatitcanlove，orhope，orsuffernomore。AllahisGod！Shesleepsbythelittlefezzes。Hark！
thegunsareboomingoverthewater，andHisHighnessiscomingfromhisprayers。
Afterthemurderofthatlittlechild，itseemstomeonecanneverlookwithanythingbuthorroruponthebutcherlyHerodwhoorderedit。ThedeathoftheseventythousandJanissariesascendstohistoricdignity，andtakesrankaswar。ButagreatPrinceandLightoftheUniverse，whoprocuresabortionsandthrottleslittlebabies，dwindlesawayintosuchafrightfulinsignificanceofcrime，thatthosemayrespecthimwhowill。IpitytheirExcellenciestheAmbassadors，whoareobligedtosmirkandcringetosucharascal。TodotheTurksjustice——andtwodays’walkinConstantinoplewillsettlethisfactaswellasayear’sresidenceinthecity——thepeopledonotseemintheleastanimatedbythisHerodianspirit。Ineversawmorekindnesstochildrenthanamongallclasses，morefatherswalkingaboutwithlittlesolemnMahometansinredcapsandbigtrousers，morebusinessgoingonthaninthetoyquarter，andintheAtmeidan。AlthoughyoumayseetheretheThebaicstonesetupbytheEmperorTheodosius，andthebronzecolumnofserpentswhichMurraysayswasbroughtfromDelphi，butwhichmyguideinformedmewastheveryoneexhibitedbyMosesinthewilderness，yetIfoundtheexaminationoftheseantiquitiesmuchlesspleasantthantolookatthemanytroopsofchildrenassembledontheplaintoplay；andtowatchthemastheyweredraggedaboutinlittlequeerarobas，orpaintedcarriages，whicharetherekeptforhire。Ihaveapictureofoneofthemnowinmyeyes：alittlegreenovalmachine，withflowersrudelypaintedroundthewindow，outofwhichtwosmilingheadsarepeeping，thepicturesofhappiness。Anold，good-humoured，grey-
beardedTurkistuggingthecart；andbehinditwalksaladyinayakmacandyellowslippers，andablackfemaleslave，grinningasusual，towardswhomthelittlecoach-ridersarelooking。AsmallsturdybarefootedMussulmanisexaminingthecartwithsomefeelingsofenvy：heistoopoortopurchasearideforhimselfandtheround-facedpuppy-dog，whichheishugginginhisarmsasyoungladiesinourcountrydodolls。
AlltheneighbourhoodoftheAtmeidanisexceedinglypicturesque——
themosquecourtandcloister，wherethePersianshavetheirstallsofsweetmeatsandtobacco；asuperbsycamore-treegrowsinthemiddleofthis，overshadowinganaromaticfountain；greatflocksofpigeonsaresettlingincornersofthecloister，andbarleyissoldatthegates，withwhichthegood-naturedpeoplefeedthem。FromtheAtmeidanyouhaveafineviewofSt。Sophia：andherestandsamosquewhichstruckmeasbeingmuchmorepicturesqueandsumptuous——theMosqueofSultanAchmed，withitssixgleamingwhiteminaretsanditsbeautifulcourtsandtrees。Anyinfidelsmayenterthecourtwithoutmolestation，and，lookingthroughthebarredwindowsofthemosque，haveaviewofitsairyandspaciousinterior。AsmallaudienceofwomenwascollectedtherewhenI
lookedin，squattedonthemats，andlisteningtoapreacher，whowaswalkingamongthem，andspeakingwithgreatenergy。Mydragomaninterpretedtomethesenseofafewwordsofhissermon：
hewaswarningthemofthedangerofgaddingabouttopublicplaces，andoftheimmoralityoftoomuchtalking；and，Idaresay，wemighthavehadmorevaluableinformationfromhimregardingthefolliesofwomankind，hadnotatallTurkclappedmyinterpreterontheshoulder，andpointedhimtobeoff。
Althoughtheladiesareveiled，andmuffledwiththeugliestdressesintheworld，yetitappearstheirmodestyisalarmedinspiteofallthecoveringswhichtheywear。Oneday，inthebazaar，afatoldbody，withdiamondringsonherfingers，thatweretingedwithhenneofalogwoodcolour，cametotheshopwhereIwaspurchasingslippers，withherson，ayoungAgaofsixyearsofage，dressedinabraidedfrock-coat，withahugetasseltohisfez，exceedingfat，andofamostsolemndemeanour。TheyoungAgacameforapairofshoes，andhiscontortionsweresodelightfulashetriedthem，thatIremainedlookingonwithgreatpleasure，wishingforLeechtobeathandtosketchhislordshipandhisfatmamma，whosatonthecounter。ThatladyfanciedIwaslookingather，though，asfarasIcouldsee，shehadthefigureandcomplexionofaroly-polypudding；andso，withquiteaprematurebashfulness，shesentmeamessagebytheshoemaker，orderingmetowalkawayifIhadmademypurchases，forthatladiesofherrankdidnotchoosetobestaredatbystrangers；andIwasobligedtotakemyleave，thoughwithsincereregret，forthelittlelordhadjustsqueezedhimselfintoanattitudethanwhichIneversawanythingmoreludicrousinGeneralTomThumb。WhentheladiesoftheSeragliocometothatbazaarwiththeircortegeofinfernalblackeunuchs，strangersaretoldtomoveonbriskly。Isawabevyofabouteightofthese，withtheiraides-de-camp；buttheywerewrappedup，andlookedjustasvulgaranduglyastheotherwomen，andwerenot，Isuppose，ofthemostbeautifulsort。Thepoordevilsareallowedtocomeout，half-a-dozentimesintheyear，tospendtheirlittlewretchedallowanceofpocket-moneyinpurchasingtrinketsandtobacco；alltherestofthetimetheypursuethebeautifuldutiesoftheirexistenceinthewallsofthesacredharem。
ThoughstrangersarenotallowedtoseetheinteriorofthecageinwhichthesebirdsofParadiseareconfined，yetmanypartsoftheSeraglioarefreetothecuriosityofvisitors，whochoosetodropabacksheeshhereandthere。IlandedonemorningattheSeragliopointfromGalata，closebyanancientpleasure-houseofthedefunctSultan；avastbroad-brimmedpavilion，thatlooksagreeableenoughtobeadancingroomforghostsnow：thereisanothersummer-house，theGuide-bookcheerfullysays，whithertheSultangoestosportwithhiswomenandmutes。Aregimentofinfantry，withtheirmusicattheirhead，weremarchingtoexerciseintheoutergroundsoftheSeraglio；andwefollowedthem，andhadanopportunityofseeingtheirevolutions，andhearingtheirbands，uponafinegreenplainundertheSeragliowalls，wherestandsonesolitarycolumn，erectedinmemoryofsometriumphofsomeByzantianemperor。
TherewerethreebattalionsoftheTurkishinfantry，exercisinghere；andtheyseemedtoperformtheirevolutionsinaverysatisfactorymanner：thatis，theyfiredalltogether，andchargedandhaltedinverystraightlines，andbitoffimaginarycartridge-
topswithgreatfiercenessandregularity，andmadealltheirramrodsringtomeasure，justlikesomanyChristians。Themenlookedsmall，young，clumsy，andill-built；uncomfortableintheirshabbyEuropeanclothes；andaboutthelegs，especially，seemedexceedinglyweakandill-formed。Somescoreofmilitaryinvalidswerelollinginthesunshine，aboutafountainandamarblesummer-
housethatstandontheground，watchingtheircomrades’manoeuvres（asiftheycouldneverhaveenoughofthatdelightfulpastime）；
andthesesickweremuchbettercaredforthantheirhealthycompanions。Eachmanhadtwodressing-gowns，oneofwhitecotton，andanouterwrapperofwarmbrownwoollen。Theirheadswereaccommodatedwithwaddedcottonnightcaps；anditseemedtome，fromtheirconditionandfromtheexcellentcharacterofthemilitaryhospitals，thatitwouldbemuchmorewholesometobeillthantobewellintheTurkishservice。
Facingthisgreenesplanade，andtheBosphorusshiningbeyondit，risethegreatwallsoftheouterSeraglioGardens：hugemassesofancientmasonry，overwhichpeeptheroofsofnumerouskiosksandouthouses，amongstthickevergreens，plantedsoastohidethebeautifulfrequentersoftheplacefromthepryingeyesandtelescopes。Wecouldnotcatchaglanceofasinglefiguremovinginthesegreatpleasure-grounds。Theroadwindsroundthewalls；
andtheouterpark，whichislikewiseplantedwithtrees，anddiversifiedbygarden-plotsandcottages，hadmoretheairoftheoutbuildingsofahomelyEnglishpark，thanofapalacewhichwemustallhaveimaginedtobethemoststatelyintheworld。Themostcommonplacewater-cartswerepassinghereandthere；roadswerebeingrepairedintheMacadamitemanner；andcarpentersweremendingthepark-palings，justastheydoinHampshire。ThenextthingyoumightfancywouldbetheSultanwalkingoutwithaspudandacoupleofdogs，onthewaytomeetthepost-bagandtheSaintJames’sChronicle。
Thepalaceisnopalaceatall。Itisagreattownofpavilions，builtwithoutorder，hereandthere，accordingtothefancyofsucceedingLightsoftheUniverse，ortheirfavourites。Theonlyrowofdomeswhichlookedparticularlyregularorstately，werethekitchens。Asyouexaminedthebuildingstheyhadaruinousdilapidatedlook：theyarenotfurnished，itissaid，withparticularsplendour，——notabitmoreelegantlythanMissJones’sseminaryforyoungladies，whichwemaybesureismuchmorecomfortablethantheextensiveestablishmentofHisHighnessAbdulMedjid。
InthelittlestableIthoughttoseesomemarksofRoyalmagnificence，andsomehorsesworthyofthekingofallkings。ButtheSultanissaidtobeaverytimidhorseman：theanimalthatisalwayskeptsaddledforhimdidnotlooktobeworthtwentypounds；
andtherestofthehorsesintheshabbydirtystallsweresmall，ill-kept，common-lookingbrutes。Youmightseebetter，itseemedtome，atacountryinnstableonanymarket-day。
ThekitchensarethemostsublimepartoftheSeraglio。Therearenineofthesegreathalls，forallranks，fromHisHighnessdownwards，wheremanyhecatombsareroasteddaily，accordingtotheaccounts，andwherecookinggoesonwithasavageHomericgrandeur。
Chimneysaredespisedintheseprimitivehalls；sothattheroofsareblackwiththesmokeofhundredsoffurnaces，whichescapesthroughaperturesinthedomesabove。These，too，givethechieflightintherooms，whichstreamsdownwards，andthickensandmingleswiththesmoke，andsomurkilylightsuphundredsofswarthyfiguresbusyaboutthespitsandthecauldrons。Closetothedoorbywhichweenteredtheyweremakingpastryforthesultanas；andthechiefpastrycook，whoknewmyguide，inviteduscourteouslytoseetheprocess，andpartakeofthedelicaciespreparedforthosecharminglips。Howthosesweetlipsmustshineaftereatingthesepuffs！First，hugesheetsofdougharerolledouttillthepasteisaboutasthinassilverpaper：thenanartistformsthedough-muslinintoasortofdrapery，curlingitroundandroundinmanyfancifulandprettyshapes，untilitisallgotintothecircumferenceofaroundmetaltrayinwhichitisbaked。Thenthecakeisdrenchedingreasemostprofusely；and，finally，aquantityofsyrupispouredoverit，whenthedelectablemixtureiscomplete。Themoon-facedonesaresaidtodevourimmensequantitiesofthiswholesomefood；and，infact，areeatinggreaseandsweetmeatsfrommorningtillnight。Idon’tliketothinkwhattheconsequencesmaybe，oralludetotheagonieswhichthedelicatecreaturesmustinevitablysuffer。
Thegood-naturedchiefpastrycookfilledacopperbasinwithgreasypuffs；and，dippingadubiousladleintoalargecauldron，containingseveralgallonsofsyrup，pouredaliberalportionoverthecakes，andinvitedustoeat。Oneofthetartswasquiteenoughforme：andIexcusedmyselfonthepleaofill-healthfromimbibinganymoregreaseandsugar。Butmycompanion，thedragoman，finishedsomefortypuffsinatwinkling。Theyslippeddownhisopenedjawsasthesausagesdodownclowns’throatsinapantomime。Hismoustachesshonewithgrease，anditdrippeddownhisbeardandfingers。Wethankedthesmilingchiefpastrycook，andrewardedhimhandsomelyforthetarts。Itissomethingtohaveeatenofthedaintiespreparedfortheladiesoftheharem；butI
thinkMr。Cockleoughttogetthenamesofthechiefsultanasamongtheexaltedpatronsofhisantibiliouspills。
FromthekitchenswepassedintothesecondcourtoftheSeraglio，beyondwhichisdeath。TheGuide-bookonlyhintsatthedangerswhichwouldbefallastrangercaughtpryinginthemysteriousFIRST
courtofthepalace。Ihaveread\"Bluebeard，\"anddon’tcareforpeepingintoforbiddendoors；sothatthesecondcourtwasquiteenoughforme；thepleasureofbeholdingitbeingheightened，asitwere，bythenotionoftheinvisibledangersittingnextdoor，withupliftedscimitarreadytofallonyou——presentthoughnotseen。
Acloisterrunsalongonesideofthiscourt；oppositeisthehallofthedivan，\"largebutlow，coveredwithlead，andgilt，aftertheMoorishmanner，plainenough。\"TheGrandViziersitsinthisplace，andtheambassadorsusedtowaithere，andbeconductedhenceonhorseback，attiredwithrobesofhonour。Buttheceremonyisnow，Ibelieve，discontinued；theEnglishenvoy，atanyrate，isnotallowedtoreceiveanybacksheesh，andgoesawayashecame，inthehabitofhisownnation。OntherightisadoorleadingintotheinterioroftheSeraglio；NONEPASSTHROUGHITBUTSUCHASARE
SENTFOR，theGuide-booksays：itisimpossibletotoptheterrorofthatdescription。
Aboutthisdoorladsandservantswerelolling，ichoglansandpages，withlazylooksandshabbydresses；andamongthem，sunninghimselfsulkilyonabench，apooroldfat，wrinkled，dismalwhiteeunuch，withlittlefatwhitehands，andagreatheadsunkintohischest，andtwosprawlinglittlelegsthatseemedincapabletoholduphisbloatedoldbody。Hesqueakedoutsomesurlyreplytomyfriendthedragoman，who，softenedandsweetenedbythetartshehadjustbeendevouring，was，nodoubt，anxioustobepolite：andthepoorworthyfellowwalkedawayrathercrestfallenatthisreturnofhissalutation，andhastenedmeoutoftheplace。
ThepalaceoftheSeraglio，thecloisterwithmarblepillars，thehalloftheambassadors，theimpenetrablegateguardedbyeunuchsandichoglans，havearomanticlookinprint；butnotsoinreality。Mostofthemarbleiswood，almostallthegildingisfaded，theguardsareshabby，thefoolishperspectivespaintedonthewallsarehalfcrackedoff。TheplacelookslikeVauxhallinthedaytime。
WepassedoutofthesecondcourtunderTHESUBLIMEPORTE——whichislikeafortifiedgateofaGermantownofthemiddleages——intotheoutercourt，roundwhicharepublicoffices，hospitals，anddwellingsofthemultifariousservantsofthepalace。Thisplaceisverywideandpicturesque：thereisaprettychurchofByzantinearchitectureatthefurtherend；andinthemidstofthecourtamagnificentplane-tree，ofprodigiousdimensionsandfabulousageaccordingtotheguides；St。Sophiatowersinthefurtherdistance：andfromhere，perhaps，isthebestviewofitslightswellingdomesandbeautifulproportions。ThePorteitself，too，formsanexcellentsubjectforthesketcher，iftheofficersofthecourtwillpermithimtodesignit。Imadetheattempt，andacoupleofTurkishbeadleslookedonverygood-naturedlyforsometimeattheprogressofthedrawing；butagoodnumberofotherspectatorsspeedilyjoinedthem，andmadeacrowd，whichisnotpermitted，itwouldseem，intheSeraglio；soIwastoldtopackupmyportfolio，andremovethecauseofthedisturbance，andlostmydrawingoftheOttomanPorte。
Idon’tthinkIhaveanythingmoretosayaboutthecitywhichhasnotbeenmuchbettertoldbygravertravellers。I，withthem，couldsee（perhapsitwasthepreachingofthepoliticiansthatwarnedmeofthefact）thatwearelookingonatthelastdaysofanempire；andheardmanystoriesofweakness，disorder，andoppression。IevensawaTurkishladydriveuptoSultanAchmet’smosqueINABROUGHAM。Isnotthatasubjecttomoraliseupon？Andmightonenotdrawendlessconclusionsfromit，thattheknelloftheTurkishdominionisrung；thattheEuropeanspiritandinstitutionsonceadmittedcanneverberootedoutagain；andthatthescepticismprevalentamongstthehigherordersmustdescendereverylongtothelower；andthecryofthemuezzinfromthemosquebecomeamereceremony？
ButasIonlystayedeightdaysinthisplace，andknewnotasyllableofthelanguage，perhapsitisaswelltopretermitanydisquisitionsaboutthespiritofthepeople。Icanonlysaythattheylookedtobeverygood-natured，handsome，andlazy；thatthewomen’syellowslippersareveryugly；thatthekabobsattheshophardbytheRopeBazaarareveryhotandgood；andthatattheArmeniancookshopstheyserveyoudeliciousfish，andastoutraisinwineofnosmallmerit。Therecamein，aswesatanddinedthereatsunset，agoodoldTurk，whocalledforapennyfish，andsatdownunderatreeveryhumbly，andateitwithhisownbread。
WemadethatjollyoldMussulmanhappywithaquartoftheraisinwine；andhiseyestwinkledwitheveryfreshglass，andhewipedhisoldbearddelighted，andtalkedandchirpedagooddeal，and，I
daresay，toldusthewholestateoftheempire。HewastheonlyMussulmanwithwhomIattainedanydegreeofintimacyduringmystayinConstantinople；andyouwillseethat，forobviousreasons，Icannotdivulgetheparticularsofourconversation。
\"Youhavenothingtosay，andyouownit，\"sayssomebody：\"thenwhywrite？\"Thatquestionperhaps（betweenourselves）Ihaveputlikewise；andyet，mydearsir，thereareSOMEthingsworthrememberingeveninthisbriefletter：thatwomaninthebroughamisanideaofsignificance：thatcomparisonoftheSeragliotoVauxhallinthedaytimeisatrueandrealone；frombothofwhichyourowngreatsoulandingeniousphilosophicspiritmaydrawconclusions，thatImyselfhavemodestlyforbornetopress。Youaretooclevertorequireamoraltobetackedtoallthefablesyouread，asisdoneforchildreninthespelling-books；elseI
wouldtellyouthatthegovernmentoftheOttomanPorteseemstobeasrotten，aswrinkled，andasfeebleastheoldeunuchIsawcrawlingaboutitinthesun；thatwhentheladydroveupinabroughamtoSultanAchmet，Ifeltthattheschoolmasterwasreallyabroad；andthatthecrescentwillgooutbeforethatluminary，asmeeklyasthemoondoesbeforethesun。
CHAPTERVIII：RHODES
ThesailingofavesseldirectforJaffabroughtagreatnumberofpassengerstogether，andourdeckswerecoveredwithChristian，Jew，andHeathen。InthecabinwewerePolesandRussians，Frenchmen，Germans，Spaniards，andGreeks；onthedeckweresquattedseverallittlecoloniesofpeopleofdifferentraceandpersuasion。TherewasaGreekPapa，anoblefigurewithaflowingandvenerablewhitebeard，whohadbeenlivingonbread-and-waterforIdon’tknowhowmanyyears，inordertosavealittlemoneytomakethepilgrimagetoJerusalem。TherewereseveralfamiliesofJewishRabbis，whocelebratedtheir\"feastoftabernacles\"onboard；theirchiefmenperformingworshiptwiceorthriceaday，dressedintheirpontificalhabits，andboundwithphylacteries：
andtherewereTurks，whohadtheirownceremoniesandusages，andwiselykeptalooffromtheirneighboursofIsrael。
Thedirtofthesechildrenofcaptivityexceedsallpossibilityofdescription；theprofusionofstinkswhichtheyraised，thegreaseoftheirvenerablegarmentsandfaces，thehorriblemessescookedinthefilthypots，anddevouredwiththenastyfingers，thesqualorofmats，pots，oldbedding，andfoulcarpetsofourHebrewfriends，couldhardlybepaintedbySwiftinhisdirtiestmood，andcannotbe，ofcourse，attemptedbymytimidandgenteelpen。WhatwouldtheysayinBakerStreettosomesightswithwhichournewfriendsfavouredus？WhatwouldyourladyshiphavesaidifyouhadseentheinterestingGreeknuncombingherhairoverthecabin——
combingitwiththenaturalfingers，and，aversetoslaughter，flingingthedelicatelittleintruders，whichshefoundinthecourseofherinvestigation，gentlyintothegreatcabin？Ourattentionwasagooddealoccupiedinwatchingthestrangewaysandcustomsofthevariouscomradesofours。
TheJewswererefugeesfromPoland，goingtolaytheirbonestorestinthevalleyofJehoshaphat，andperformingwithexceedingrigourtheofficesoftheirreligion。Atmorningandeveningyouweresuretoseethechiefsofthefamilies，arrayedinwhiterobes，bowingovertheirbooks，atprayer。Onceaweek，ontheevebeforetheSabbath，therewasageneralwashinginJewry，whichsufficeduntiltheensuingFriday。Themenworelonggownsandcapsoffur，orelsebroad-brimmedhats，or，inservicetime，boundontheirheadslittleironboxes，withthesacrednameengravedonthem。Amongtheladsthereweresomebeautifulfaces；andamongthewomenyourhumbleservantdiscoveredonewhowasaperfectrosebudofbeautywhenfirstemergingfromherFriday’stoilet，andforadayortwoafterwards，untileachsucceedingday’ssmutdarkenedthosefreshanddelicatecheeksofhers。WehadsomeveryroughweatherinthecourseofthepassagefromConstantinopletoJaffa，andtheseawashedoverandoverourIsraelitishfriendsandtheirbaggagesandbundles；butthoughtheyweresaidtoberich，theywouldnotaffordtopayforcabinshelter。Onefatherofafamily，findinghisprogenyhalfdrownedinasquall，vowedheWOULDpayforacabin；buttheweatherwassomewhatfinerthenextday，andhecouldnotsqueezeouthisdollars，andtheship’sauthoritieswouldnotadmithimexceptuponpayment。
ThisunwillingnesstopartwithmoneyisnotonlyfoundamongstthefollowersofMoses，butinthoseofMahomet，andChristianstoo。
Whenwewenttopurchaseinthebazaars，afterofferingmoneyforchange，thehonestfellowswouldfrequentlykeepbackseveralpiastres，andwhenurgedtorefund，wouldgivemostdismally：andbegindolingoutpennybypenny，andutterpatheticprayerstotheircustomernottotakeanymore。Iboughtfiveorsixpounds’
worthofBroussasilksforthewomankind，inthebazaaratConstantinople，andtherichArmenianwhosoldthembeggedforthree-halfpencetopayhisboattoGalata。Thereissomethingnaifandamusinginthisexhibitionofcheatery——thissimplecringingandwheedling，andpassionfortwopence-halfpenny。Itwaspleasanttogiveamillionairebeggaranalms，andlaughinhisfaceandsay，\"There，Dives，there’sapennyforyou：behappy，youpooroldswindlingscoundrel，asfarasapennygoes。\"IusedtowatchtheseJewsonshore，andmakingbargainswithoneanotherassoonastheycameonboard；thebattlebetweenvendorandpurchaserwasanagony——theyshrieked，claspedhands，appealedtooneanotherpassionately；theirhandsomenoblefacesassumedalookofwoe——
quiteanheroiceagernessandsadnessaboutafarthing。
AmbassadorsfromourHebrewsdescendedatRhodestobuyprovisions，anditwascurioustoseetheirdealings：therewasourvenerableRabbi，who，robedinwhiteandsilver，andbendingoverhisbookatthemorningservice，lookedlikeapatriarch，andwhomIsawchafferingaboutafowlwithabrotherRhodianIsraelite。Howtheyfoughtoverthebodyofthatleananimal！ThestreetswarmedwithJews：gogglingeyeslookedoutfromtheoldcarvedcasements——
hookednosesissuedfromthelowantiquedoors——Jewboysdrivingdonkeys，Hebrewmothersnursingchildren，dusky，tawdry，raggedyoungbeautiesandmostvenerablegrey-beardedfatherswereallgatheredroundabouttheaffairofthehen！AndatthesametimethatourRabbiwasarrangingthepriceofit，hischildrenwereinstructedtoprocurebundlesofgreenbranchestodecoratetheshipduringtheirfeast。Thinkofthecenturiesduringwhichthesewonderfulpeoplehaveremainedunchanged；andhow，fromthedaysofJacobdownwards，theyhavebelievedandswindled！
TheRhodianJews，withtheirgeniusforfilth，havemadetheirquarterofthenobledesolateoldtownthemostruinousandwretchedofall。Theescutcheonsoftheproudoldknightsarestillcarvedoverthedoors，whenceissuethesemiserablegreasyhuckstersandpedlars。TheTurksrespectedtheseemblemsofthebraveenemieswhomtheyhadovercome，andleftthemuntouched。
WhentheFrenchseizedMaltatheywerebynomeanssodelicate：
theyeffacedarmorialbearingswiththeirusualhot-headedeagerness；andafewyearsaftertheyhadtorndownthecoats-of-
armsofthegentry，theheroesofMaltaandEgyptwerebusydevisingheraldryforthemselves，andwerewildtobebaronsandcountsoftheEmpire。
ThechivalrousrelicsatRhodesareverysuperb。Iknowofnobuildingswhosestatelyandpicturesqueaspectseemstocorrespondbetterwithone’snotionsoftheirproudfounders。Thetowersandgatesarewarlikeandstrong，butbeautifulandaristocratic：youseethattheymusthavebeenhigh-bredgentlemenwhobuiltthem。
TheedificesappearinalmostasperfectaconditionaswhentheywereintheoccupationofthenobleKnightsofSt。John；andtheyhavethisadvantageovermodernfortifications，thattheyareathousandtimesmorepicturesque。Ancientwarcondescendedtoornamentitself，andbuiltfinecarvedcastlesandvaultedgates：
whereas，tojudgefromGibraltarandMalta，nothingcanbelessromanticthanthemodernmilitaryarchitecture；whichsternlyregardsthefighting，withoutintheleastheedingthewar-paint。
Someofthehugeartillerywithwhichtheplacewasdefendedstillliesinthebastions；andthetouch-holesofthegunsarepreservedbybeingcoveredwithrustyoldcorselets，wornbydefendersofthefortthreehundredyearsago。TheTurks，whobattereddownchivalry，seemtobewaitingtheirturnofdestructionnow。InwalkingthroughRhodesoneisstrangelyaffectedbywitnessingthesignsofthisdoubledecay。Forinstance，inthestreetsoftheknights，youseenoblehouses，surmountedbynobleescutcheonsofsuperbknights，wholivedthere，andprayed，andquarrelled，andmurderedtheTurks；andwerethemostgallantpiratesoftheinlandseas；andmadevowsofchastity，androbbedandravished；and，professinghumility，wouldadmitnonebutnobilityintotheirorder；anddiedrecommendingthemselvestosweetSt。John，andcalmlyhopingforheaveninconsiderationofalltheheathentheyhadslain。Whenthissuperbfraternitywasobligedtoyieldtocourageasgreatastheirs，faithassincere，andtorobbersevenmoredexterousandaudaciousthanthenoblestknightwhoeversangacanticletotheVirgin，thesehallswerefilledbymagnificentPashasandAgas，wholivedhereintheintervalsofwar，andhavingconquereditsbestchampions，despisedChristendomandchivalryprettymuchasanEnglishmandespisesaFrenchman。Nowthefamoushouseislettoashabbymerchant，whohashislittlebeggarlyshopinthebazaar；toasmallofficer，whoekesouthiswretchedpensionbyswindling，andwhogetshispayinbadcoin。
Mahometanismpaysinpewternow，inplaceofsilverandgold。Thelordsoftheworldhaveruntoseed。Thepowerlessoldswordfrightensnobodynow——thesteelisturnedtopewtertoo，somehow，andwillnolongershearaChristianheadoffanyshoulders。IntheCrusadesmywickedsympathieshavealwaysbeenwiththeTurks。
TheyseemtomethebetterChristiansofthetwo：morehumane，lessbrutallypresumptuousabouttheirownmerits，andmoregenerousinesteemingtheirneighbours。AsfarasIcangetattheauthenticstory，Saladinisapearlofrefinementcomparedtothebrutalbeef-eatingRichard——aboutwhomSirWalterScotthasledalltheworldastray。
Whenshallwehavearealaccountofthosetimesandheroes——nogood-humouredpageant，likethoseoftheScottromances——butarealauthenticstorytoinstructandfrightenhonestpeopleofthepresentday，andmakethemthankfulthatthegrocergovernstheworldnowinplaceofthebaron？Meanwhileamanoftenderfeelingsmaybepardonedfortwaddlingalittleoverthissadspectacleofthedecayoftwoofthegreatinstitutionsoftheworld。Knighthoodisgone——amen；itexpiredwithdignity，itsfacetothefoe：andoldMahometanismislingeringaboutjustreadytodrop。ButitisunseemlytoseesuchaGrandPotentateinsuchastateofdecay：thesonofBajazetIlderiminsolvent；thedescendantsoftheProphetbulliedbyCalmucsandEnglishandwhipper-snapperFrenchmen；theFountainofMagnificencedoneup，andobligedtocoinpewter！ThinkofthepoordearhourisinParadise，howsadtheymustlookasthearrivalsoftheFaithfulbecomelessandlessfrequenteveryday。IcanfancytheplacebeginningtowearthefatalVauxhalllookoftheSeraglio，andwhichhaspursuedmeeversinceIsawit：thefountainsofeternalwinearebeginningtorunratherdry，andofaquestionableliquor；
theready-roasted-meattreesmaycry，\"Comeeatme，\"everynowandthen，inafaintvoice，withoutanygravyinit——buttheFaithfulbegintodoubtaboutthequalityofthevictuals。Ofnightsyoumayseethehourissittingsadlyunderthem，darningtheirfadedmuslins：Ali，Omar，andtheImaumsarereconciledandhavegloomyconsultations：andtheChiefoftheFaithfulhimself，theawfulcamel-driver，thesupernaturalhusbandofKhadijah，sitsaloneinatumbledownkiosk，thinkingmoodilyofthedestinythatisimpendingoverhim；andofthedaywhenhisgardensofblissshallbeasvacantasthebankruptOlympus。
AllthetownofRhodeshasthisappearanceofdecayandruin，exceptafewconsuls’housesplantedonthesea-side，hereandthere，withbrightflagsflauntinginthesun；freshpaint；Englishcrockery；shiningmahogany，&c。，——somanyemblemsofthenewprosperityoftheirtrade，whiletheoldinhabitantsweregoingtorack——thefineChurchofSt。John，convertedintoamosque，isaruinedchurch，witharuinedmosqueinside；thefortificationsaremoulderingaway，asmuchastimewillletthem。Therewasconsiderablebustleandstiraboutthelittleport；butitwasthebustleofpeoplewholookedforthemostparttobebeggars；andI
sawnoshopinthebazaarthatseemedtohavethevalueofapedlar’spack。
Itook，bywayofguide，ayoungfellowfromBerlin，ajourneymanshoemaker，whohadjustbeenmakingatourinSyria，andwhoprofessedtospeakbothArabicandTurkishquitefluently——whichI
thoughthemighthavelearnedwhenhewasastudentatcollege，beforehebeganhisprofessionofshoemaking；butIfoundheonlyknewaboutthreewordsofTurkish，whichwereproducedoneveryoccasion，asIwalkedunderhisguidancethroughthedesolatestreetsofthenobleoldtown。Wewentoutuponthelinesoffortification，throughanancientgateandguard-house，whereonceachapelprobablystood，andofwhichtheroofswererichlycarvedandgilded。AraggedsquadofTurkishsoldierslolledaboutthegatenow；acoupleofboysonadonkey；agrinningslaveonamule；
apairofwomenflappingalonginyellowpapooshes；abasket-makersittingunderanantiquecarvedportal，andchantingorhowlingasheplaitedhisosiers：apeacefulwellofwater，atwhichknights’
chargershaddrunk，andatwhichthedouble-boyeddonkeywasnowrefreshinghimself——wouldhavemadeaprettypictureforasentimentalartist。Ashesits，andendeavourstomakeasketchofthisplaintivelittlecomedy，ashabbydignitaryoftheislandcomesclatteringbyonathirty-shillinghorse，andtwoorthreeoftheraggedsoldiersleavetheirpipestosalutehimashepassesundertheGothicarchway。
Theastonishingbrightnessandclearnessoftheskyunderwhichtheislandseemedtobask，struckmeassurpassinganythingIhadseen——
notevenatCadiz，orthePiraeus，hadIseensandssoyellow，orwatersomagnificentlyblue。Thehousesofthepeoplealongtheshorewerebutpoortenements，withhumblecourtyardsandgardens；
buteveryfig-treewasgildedandbright，asifitwereinanHesperianorchard；thepalms，plantedhereandthere，rosewithasortofhalooflightroundaboutthem；thecreepersonthewallsquitedazzledwiththebrilliancyoftheirflowersandleaves；thepeoplelayinthecoolshadows，happyandidle，withhandsomesolemnfaces；nobodyseemedtobeatwork；theyonlytalkedaverylittle，asifidlenessandsilencewereaconditionofthedelightfulshiningatmosphereinwhichtheylived。
Wewentdowntoanoldmosquebythesea-shore，withaclusterofancientdomeshardbyit，blazinginthesunshine，andcarvedalloverwithnamesofAllah，andtitlesofoldpiratesandgeneralswhoreposedthere。Theguardianofthemosquesatinthegarden-
court，uponahighwoodenpulpit，lazilywagginghisbodytoandfro，andsingingthepraisesoftheProphetgentlythroughhisnose，asthebreezestirredthroughthetreesoverhead，andcastchequeredandchangingshadowsoverthepavedcourt，andthelittlefountains，andthenasalpsalmistonhisperch。Ononesidewasthemosque，intowhichyoucouldsee，withitswhitewallsandcool-mattedfloor，andquaintcarvedpulpitandornaments，andnobodyatprayers。Inthemiddledistanceroseupthenobletowersandbattlementsoftheknightlytown，withthedeepsea-linebehindthem。
Itreallyseemedasifeverybodywastohaveasortofsobercheerfulness，andmustyieldtoindolenceunderthischarmingatmosphere。Iwentintothecourtyardbythesea-shore（whereafewlazyshipswerelying，withnooneonboard），andfounditwastheprisonoftheplace。ThedoorwasaswideopenasWestminsterHall。Someprisoners，oneortwosoldiersandfunctionaries，andsomeprisoners’wives，werelollingunderanarcadebyafountain；
othercriminalswerestrollingabouthereandthere，theirchainsclinkingquitecheerfully；andtheyandtheguardsandofficialscameupchattingquitefriendlytogether，andgazedlanguidlyovertheportfolio，asIwasendeavouringtogetthelikenessofoneortwoofthesecomfortablemalefactors。Oneoldandwrinkledshe-
criminal，whomIhadselectedonaccountofthepeculiarhideousnessofhercountenance，covereditupwithadirtycloth，atwhichtherewasageneralroaroflaughteramongthisgood-
humouredauditoryofcut-throats，pickpockets，andpolicemen。Theonlysymptomofaprisonabouttheplacewasadoor，acrosswhichacoupleofsentinelswerestretched，yawning；whilewithinlaythreefreshly-caughtpirates——chainedbytheleg。Theyhadcommittedsomemurdersofaverylatedate，andwereawaitingsentence；buttheirwiveswereallowedtocommunicatefreelywiththem：anditseemedtomethatifhalf-a-dozenfriendswouldsetthemflee，andtheythemselveshadenergyenoughtomove，thesentinelswouldbeagreatdealtoolazytowalkafterthem。
ThecombinedinfluenceofRhodesandRamazan，Isuppose，hadtakenpossessionofmyfriendtheSchustergesellfromBerlin。Assoonashereceivedhisfee，hecutmeatonce，andwentandlaydownbyafountainneartheport，andategrapesoutofadirtypocket-
handkerchief。OtherChristianidlerslaynearhim，dozing，orsprawling，intheboats，orlistlesslymunchingwater-melons。
Alongthecoffee-housesofthequaysathundredsmore，withnobetteremployment；andthecaptainofthe\"Iberia\"andhisofficers，andseveralofthepassengersinthatfamoussteamship，wereinthiscompany，beingidlewithalltheirmight。Twoorthreeadventurousyoungmenwentofftoseethevalleywherethedragonwaskilled；butothers，moresusceptibleoftherealinfluenceoftheisland，IamsurewouldnothavemovedthoughwehadbeentoldthattheColossushimselfwastakingawalkhalfamileoff。
CHAPTERIX：THEWHITESQUALL
Ondeck，beneaththeawning，Idozinglayandyawning；
Itwasthegreyofdawning，Ereyetthesunarose；
Andabovethefunnel’sroaring，Andthefitfulwind’sdeploring，IheardthecabinsnoringWithuniversalnose。
Icouldhearthepassengerssnorting，Ienviedtheirdisporting：
VainlyIwascourtingThepleasureofadoze。
SoIlay，andwonderedwhylightCamenot，andwatchedthetwilightAndtheglimmeroftheskylight，Thatshotacrossthedeck；
Andthebinnaclepaleandsteady，Andthedullglimpseofthedead-eye，Andthesparksinfieryeddy，Thatwhirledfromthechimneyneck：
InourjovialfloatingprisonTherewassleepfromforetomizen，AndneverastarhadrisenThehazyskytospeck。
Strangecompanyweharboured；
We’dahundredJewstolarboard，Unwashed，uncombed，uubarbered，Jewsblack，andbrown，andgrey；
Withterroritwouldseizeye，Andmakeyoursoulsuneasy，ToseethoseRabbisgreasy，Whodidnoughtbutscratchandpray：
Theirdirtychildrenpucking，Theirdirtysaucepanscooking，TheirdirtyfingershookingTheirswarmingfleasaway。
TostarboardTurksandGreekswere，Whiskered，andbrowntheircheekswere，Enormouswidetheirbreekswere，Theirpipesdidpuffalway；
Eachonhismatallotted，Insilencesmokedandsquatted，WhilstroundtheirchildrentrottedInpretty，pleasantplay。
Hecan’tbutsmilewhotracesThesmilesonthosebrownfaces，AndtheprettyprattlinggracesOfthosesmallheathensgay。
Andsothehourskepttolling，Andthroughtheoceanrolling，Wentthebrave\"Iberia\"bowlingBeforethebreakofday-
WhenaSQUALLuponasuddenCameo’erthewatersscudding；
Andthecloudsbegantogather，Andtheseawaslashedtolather，Andtheloweringthundergrumbled，Andthelightningjumpedandtumbled，Andtheship，andalltheocean，Wokeupinwildcommotion。
Thenthewindsetupahowling，Andthepoodle-dogayowling，Andthecocksbeganacrowing，Andtheoldcowraisedalowing，Assheheardthetempestblowing；
Andfowlsandgeesedidcackle，AndthecordageandthetackleBegantoshriekandcrackle；
Andthespraydashedo’erthefunnels，Anddownthedeckinrunnels；
Andtherushingwatersoaksall，Fromtheseameninthefo’ksalTothestokers，whoseblackfacesPeeroutoftheirbed-places；
Andthecaptainhewasbawling，Andthesailorspulling，hauling；
Andthequarter-decktarpaulingWasshiveredinthesqualling；
Andthepassengersawaken，Mostpitifullyshaken；
Andthestewardjumpsup，andhastensForthenecessarybasins。
ThentheGreekstheygroanedandquivered，Andtheyknelt，andmoaned，andshivered，Astheplungingwatersmetthem，Andsplashedandoversetthem；
AndtheycallintheiremergenceUponcountlesssaintsandvirgins；
Andtheirmarrowbonesarebended，Andtheythinktheworldisended。
AndtheTurkishwomenfor’ardWerefrightenedandbehorror’d；
And，shriekingandbewildering，Themothersclutchedtheirchildren；
Themensung，\"AllahIllah！
MashallahBismillah！\"
Asthewarringwatersdousedthem，Andsplashedthemandsousedthem；
AndtheycalledupontheProphet，Andthoughtbutlittleofit。
ThenallthefleasinJewryJumpedupandbitlikefury；
AndtheprogenyofJacobDidonthemain-deckwakeup（IwotthosegreasyRabbinsWouldneverpayforcabins）；
AndeachmanmoanedandjabberedinHisfilthyJewishgaberdine，Inwoeandlamentation，Andhowlingconsternation。
AndthesplashingwaterdrenchesTheirdirtybratsandwenches；
Andtheycrawlfrombalesandbenches，Inahundredthousandstenches。
ThiswastheWhiteSquallfamousWhichlatterlyo’ercameus，AndwhichallwillwellrememberOnthe28thSeptember：
WhenaPrussianCaptainofLancers（Thosetight-laced，whiskeredprancers）
Cameonthedeckastonished，Bythatwildsqualladmonished，Andwonderingcried，\"Potztausend！
WieistderSturmjetztbrausend！\"
AndlookedatCaptainLewis，WhocalmlystoodandblewhisCigarinallthebustle，Andscornedthetempest’stussle。
Andoftwe’vethoughtthereafterHowhebeatthestormtolaughter；
ForwellheknewhisvesselWiththatvainwindcouldwrestle；
AndwhenawreckwethoughtherAnddoomedourselvestoslaughter，Howgailyhefoughther，Andthroughthehubbubbroughther，And，asthetempestcaughther，Cried，\"GEORGE！SOMEBRANDY-AND-WATER！\"
Andwhen，itsforceexpended，Theharmlessstormwasended，And，asthesunrisesplendidCameblushingo’erthesea；
Ithought，asdaywasbreaking，Mylittlegirlswerewaking，Andsmiling，andmakingAprayerathomeforme。
CHAPTERX：TELMESSUS——BEYROUT
ThereshouldhavebeenapoetinourcompanytodescribethatcharminglittlebayofGlaucus，intowhichweenteredonthe26thofSeptember，inthefirststeam-boatthateverdisturbeditsbeautifulwaters。Youcan’tputdowninprosethatdeliciousepisodeofnaturalpoetry；itoughttobedoneinasymphony，fullofsweetmelodiesandswellingharmonies；orsunginastrainofclearcrystaliambics，suchasMilnesknowshowtowrite。Ameremap，drawninwords，givesthemindnonotionofthatexquisitenature。Whatdomountainsbecomeintype，orriversinMr。
Vizetelly’sbestbrevier？Hereliesthesweetbay，gleamingpeacefulintherosysunshine：greenislandsdiphereandthereinitswaters：purplemountainsswellcirclingroundit；andtowardsthem，risingfromthebay，stretchesarichgreenplain，fruitfulwithherbsandvariousfoliage，inthemidstofwhichthewhitehousestwinkle。Icanseealittleminaret，andsomespreadingpalm-trees；but，beyondthese，thedescriptionwouldansweraswellforBantryBayasforMakri。Youcouldwritesofar，nay，muchmoreparticularlyandgrandly，withoutseeingtheplaceatall，andafterreadingBeaufort’s\"Caramania，\"whichgivesyounottheleastnotionofit。