couldonlyworshipmyownGod，theLordofEarthandHeaven，ofthedeadandoftheliving，theyweretoocourteoustopresstheirrequest。AstoIto，itdidnotsignifytohimwhetherornotheaddedanothergodtohisalreadycrowdedPantheon，andhe“worshipped，“i。e。boweddown，mostwillinglybeforethegreatheroofhisown，theconqueringrace。
Whilewewerecrowdedthereonthenarrowledgeofthecliff，Benri，thechief，arrived——asquare-built，broad-shouldered，elderlyman，strongasanox，andveryhandsome，buthisexpressionisnotpleasing，andhiseyesarebloodshotwithdrinking。Theotherssalutedhimveryrespectfully，butInoticedthenandsincethathismannerisveryarbitrary，andthatablownotinfrequentlyfollowsaword。HehadsentamessagetohispeoplebyItothattheywerenottoansweranyquestionstillhereturned，butItoverytactfullyneithergaveitnortoldmeofit，andhewasdispleasedwiththeyoungmenforhavingtalkedtomesomuch。Hismotherhadevidently“peached。“Ilikehimlessthananyofhistribe。Hehassomefinequalities，truthfulnessamongothers，buthehasbeencontaminatedbythefourorfiveforeignersthathehasseen，andisabruteandasot。Theheartsofhispeoplearenolongersad，forthereissakeineveryhouseto-night。
BarrennessofSavageLife——IrreclaimableSavages——TheAinoPhysique——FemaleComeliness-TortureandOrnament——ChildLife——
DocilityandObedience。
IexpectedtohavewrittenoutmynotesontheAinosinthecomparativequietandcomfortofSarufuto，butthedelayinBenri’sreturn，andthenon-arrivalofthehorses，havecompelledmetoacceptAinohospitalityforanothernight，whichinvolveslivingonteaandpotatoes，formystockoffoodisexhausted。InsomerespectsIamgladtoremainlonger，asitenablesmetogoovermystockofwords，aswellasmynotes，withthechief，whoisintelligentanditisapleasuretofindthathisstatementsconfirmthosewhichhavebeenmadebytheyoungmen。Theglamourwhichatfirstdisguisestheinherentbarrennessofsavagelifehashadtimetopassaway，andIseeitinallitsnakednessasalifenotmuchraisedabovethenecessitiesofanimalexistence，timid，monotonous，barrenofgood，dark，dull，“withouthope，andwithoutGodintheworld；“thoughatitslowestandworstconsiderablyhigherandbetterthanthatofmanyotheraboriginalraces，and——
mustIsayit？——considerablyhigherandbetterthanthatofthousandsofthelapsedmassesofourowngreatcitieswhoarebaptizedintoChrist’sname，andarelaidatlastinholyground，inasmuchastheAinosaretruthful，and，onthewhole，chaste，hospitable，honest，reverent，andkindtotheaged。Drinking，theirgreatvice，isnot，asamongus，inantagonismtotheirreligion，butisactuallyapartofit，andassuchwouldbeexceptionallydifficulttoeradicate。
Theearlydarknesshasonceagaincomeon，andonceagaintheeldershaveassembledroundthefireintwolonglines，withtheyoungermenattheends，Pipichari，whoyesterdaysatintheplaceofhonourandwashelpedtofoodfirstasthenewestarrival，takinghisplaceastheyoungestattheendoftheright-handrow。
Thebirch-barkchipsbeamwithfitfulglare，theeveningsakebowlsarefilled，thefire-godandthegarlandedgodreceivetheirlibations，theancientwoman，stillsittinglikeaFate，splitsbark，andtheyoungerwomenknotit，andthelog-firelightsupasmagnificentasetofvenerableheadsaspainterorsculptorwoulddesiretosee，——heads，fullof——what？Theyhavenohistory，theirtraditionsarescarcelyworthythename，theyclaimdescentfromadog，theirhousesandpersonsswarmwithvermin，theyaresunkinthegrossestignorance，theyhavenolettersoranynumbersaboveathousand，theyareclothedinthebarkoftreesandtheuntannedskinsofbeasts，theyworshipthebear，thesun，moon，fire，water，andIknownotwhat，theyareuncivilisableandaltogetherirreclaimablesavages，yettheyareattractive，andinsomewaysfascinating，andIhopeIshallneverforgetthemusicoftheirlow，sweetvoices，thesoftlightoftheirmild，browneyes，andthewonderfulsweetnessoftheirsmile。
Aftertheyellowskins，thestiffhorsehair，thefeebleeyelids，theelongatedeyes，theslopingeyebrows，theflatnoses，thesunkenchests，theMongolianfeatures，thepunyphysique，theshakywalkofthemen，therestrictedtotterofthewomen，andthegeneralimpressionofdegeneracyconveyedbytheappearanceoftheJapanese，theAinosmakeaverysingularimpression。AllbuttwoorthreethatIhaveseenarethemostferocious-lookingofsavages，withaphysiquevigorousenoughforcarryingoutthemostferociousintentions，butassoonastheyspeakthecountenancebrightensintoasmileasgentleasthatofawoman，somethingwhichcanneverbeforgotten。
Themenareaboutthemiddleheight，broad-chested，broad-
shouldered，“thickset，“verystronglybuilt，thearmsandlegsshort，thick，andmuscular，thehandsandfeetlarge。Thebodies，andspeciallythelimbs，ofmanyarecoveredwithshortbristlyhair。Ihaveseentwoboyswhosebacksarecoveredwithfurasfineandsoftasthatofacat。Theheadsandfacesareverystriking。Theforeheadsareveryhigh，broad，andprominent，andatfirstsightgiveonetheimpressionofanunusualcapacityforintellectualdevelopment；theearsaresmallandsetlow；thenosesarestraightbutshort，andbroadatthenostrils；themouthsarewidebutwellformed；andthelipsrarelyshowatendencytofulness。Theneckisshort，thecraniumrounded，thecheek-boneslow，andthelowerpartofthefaceissmallascomparedwiththeupper，thepeculiaritycalleda“jowl“beingunknown。Theeyebrowsarefull，andformastraightlinenearlyacrosstheface。Theeyesarelarge，tolerablydeeplyset，andverybeautiful，thecolourarichliquidbrown，theexpressionsingularlysoft，andtheeyelasheslong，silky，andabundant。TheskinhastheItalianolivetint，butinmostcasesisthin，andlightenoughtoshowthechangesofcolourinthecheek。Theteetharesmall，regular，andverywhite；theincisorsand“eyeteeth“arenotdisproportionatelylarge，asisusuallythecaseamongtheJapanese；thereisnotendencytowardsprognathism；andthefoldofintegumentwhichconcealstheuppereyelidsoftheJapaneseisnevertobemetwith。
Thefeatures，expression，andaspect，areEuropeanratherthanAsiatic。
The“ferocioussavagery“oftheappearanceofthemenisproducedbyaprofusionofthick，soft，blackhair，dividedinthemiddle，andfallinginheavymassesnearlytotheshoulders。Outofdoorsitiskeptfromfallingoverthefacebyafilletroundthebrow。
Thebeardsareequallyprofuse，quitemagnificent，andgenerallywavy，andinthecaseoftheoldmentheygiveatrulypatriarchalandvenerableaspect，inspiteoftheyellowtingeproducedbysmokeandwantofcleanliness。Thesavagelookproducedbythemassesofhairandbeard，andthethickeyebrows，ismitigatedbythesoftnessinthedreamybrowneyes，andisaltogetherobliteratedbytheexceedingsweetnessofthesmile，whichbelongsingreaterorlessdegreetoalltheroughersex。
Ihavemeasuredtheheightofthirtyoftheadultmenofthisvillage，anditrangesfrom5feet4inchesto5feet6。5inches。
Thecircumferenceoftheheadsaverages22。1inches，andthearc，fromeartoear，13inches。AccordingtoMr。Davies，theaverageweightoftheAinoadultmasculinebrain，ascertainedbymeasurementofAinoskulls，is45。90ouncesavoirdupois，abrainweightsaidtoexceedthatofalltheraces，HindooandMussulman，ontheIndianplains，andthatoftheaboriginalracesofIndiaandCeylon，andisonlyparalleledbythatoftheracesoftheHimalayas，theSiamese，andtheChineseBurmese。Mr。Daviessays，further，thatitexceedsthemeanbrainweightofAsiaticracesingeneral。YetwithallthistheAinosareastupidpeople！
PassingtravellerswhohaveseenafewoftheAinowomenontheroadtoSatsuporospeakofthemasveryugly，butasmakingamendsfortheiruglinessbytheirindustryandconjugalfidelity。Ofthelatterthereisnodoubt，butIamnotdisposedtoadmittheformer。Theuglinessiscertainlyduetoartanddirt。TheAinowomenseldomexceedfivefeetandhalfaninchinheight，buttheyarebeautifullyformed，straight，lithe，andwell-developed，withsmallfeetandhands，well-archedinsteps，roundedlimbs，well-
developedbusts，andafirm，elasticgait。Theirheadsandfacesaresmall；butthehair，whichfallsinmassesoneachsideofthefacelikethatofthemen，isequallyredundant。Theyhavesuperbteeth，anddisplaythemliberallyinsmiling。Theirmouthsaresomewhatwide，butwellformed，andtheyhavearuddycomelinessaboutthemwhichispleasing，inspiteofthedisfigurementofthebandwhichistattooedbothaboveandbelowthemouth，andwhich，bybeingunitedatthecorners，enlargesitsapparentsizeandwidth。AgirlatShiraoi，who，forsomereason，hasnotbeensubjectedtothisprocess，isthemostbeautifulcreatureinfeatures，colouring，andnaturalgraceofform，thatIhaveseenforalongtime。Theircomplexionsarelighterthanthoseofthemen。TherearenotmanyhereevenasdarkasourEuropeanbrunettes。Afewunitetheeyebrowsbyastreakoftattooing，soastoproduceastraightline。Likethemen，theycuttheirhairshortfortwoorthreeinchesabovethenapeoftheneck，butinsteadofusingafillettheytaketwolocksfromthefrontandtiethemattheback。
Theyareuniversallytattooed，notonlywiththebroadbandaboveandbelowthemouth，butwithabandacrosstheknuckles，succeededbyanelaboratepatternonthebackofthehand，andaseriesofbraceletsextendingtotheelbow。Theprocessofdisfigurementbeginsattheageoffive，whensomeofthesufferersareyetunweaned。Isawtheoperationperformedonadearlittlebrightgirlthismorning。Awomantookalargeknifewithasharpedge，andrapidlycutseveralhorizontallinesontheupperlip，followingcloselythecurveoftheveryprettymouth，andbeforetheslightbleedinghadceasedcarefullyrubbedinsomeoftheshinysootwhichcollectsonthematabovethefire。Intwoorthreedaysthescarredlipwillbewashedwiththedecoctionofthebarkofatreetofixthepattern，andgiveitthatbluelookwhichmakesmanypeoplemistakeitforadaubofpaint。Achildwhohadthissecondprocessperformedyesterdayhasherlipfearfullyswollenandinflamed。Thelatestvictimheldherhandsclaspedtightlytogetherwhilethecutswereinflicted，butnevercried。
Thepatternonthelipsisdeepenedandwidenedeveryyearuptothetimeofmarriage，andthecirclesonthearmareextendedinasimilarway。Themencannotgiveanyreasonfortheuniversalityofthiscustom。Itisanoldcustom，theysay，andpartoftheirreligion，andnowomancouldmarrywithoutit。BenrifanciesthattheJapanesecustomofblackeningtheteethisequivalenttoit；
butheismistaken，asthatceremonyusuallysucceedsmarriage。
Theybegintotattoothearmswhenagirlisfiveorsix，andworkfromtheelbowdownwards。Theyexpressedthemselvesasverymuchgrievedandtormentedbytherecentprohibitionoftattooing。Theysaythegodswillbeangry，andthatthewomencan’tmarryunlesstheyaretattooed；andtheyimploredbothMr。VonSieboldandmetointercedewiththeJapaneseGovernmentontheirbehalfinthisrespect。Theyarelessapatheticonthisthanonanysubject，andrepeatfrequently，“It’sapartofourreligion。“