AmRheinTheaboveeverydayeventshadoccurred，andafewweekshadpassed，whenononefinemorning，Parliamentbeingover，thesummeradvanced，andallthegoodcompanyinLondonabouttoquitthatcityfortheirannualtourinsearchofpleasureorhealth，theBataviersteamboatlefttheTower-stairsladenwithagoodlycompanyofEnglishfugitives。Thequarter-deckawningswereup，andthebenchesandgangwayscrowdedwithscoresofrosychildren，bustlingnursemaids；ladiesintheprettiestpinkbonnetsandsummerdresses；gentlemenintravellingcapsandlinen-jackets，whosemustachioshadjustbeguntosproutfortheensuingtour；andstouttrimoldveteranswithstarchedneckclothsandneat-brushedhats，suchashaveinvadedEuropeanytimesincetheconclusionofthewar，andcarrythenationalGoddemintoeverycityoftheContinent。Thecongregationofhat-boxes，andBramahdesks，anddressing-caseswasprodigious。TherewerejauntyyoungCambridge-mentravellingwiththeirtutor，andgoingforareadingexcursiontoNonnenwerthorKonigswinter；therewereIrishgentlemen，withthemostdashingwhiskersandjewellery，talkingabouthorsesincessantly，andprodigiouslypolitetotheyoungladiesonboard，whom，onthecontrary，theCambridgeladsandtheirpale-facedtutoravoidedwithmaidencoyness；therewereoldPallMallloungersboundforEmsandWiesbadenandacourseofwaterstoclearoffthedinnersoftheseason，andalittlerouletteandtrente-
et-quarantetokeeptheexcitementgoing；therewasoldMethuselah，whohadmarriedhisyoungwife，withCaptainPapillonoftheGuardsholdingherparasolandguide-books；therewasyoungMaywhowascarryingoffhisbrideonapleasuretourMrs。Winterthatwas，andwhohadbeenatschoolwithMay’sgrandmother；therewasSirJohnandmyLadywithadozenchildren，andcorrespondingnursemaids；andthegreatgrandeeBareacresfamilythatsatbythemselvesnearthewheel，staredateverybody，andspoketonoone。Theircarriages，emblazonedwithcoronetsandheapedwithshiningimperials，wereontheforedeck，lockedinwithadozenmoresuchvehicles：itwasdifficulttopassinandoutamongstthem；andthepoorinmatesofthefore-cabinhadscarcelyanyspaceforlocomotion。TheseconsistedofafewmagnificentlyattiredgentlemenfromHoundsditch，whobroughttheirownprovisions，andcouldhaveboughthalfthegaypeopleinthegrandsaloon；afewhonestfellowswithmustachiosandportfolios，whosettosketchingbeforetheyhadbeenhalfanhouronboard；oneortwoFrenchfemmesdechambrewhobegantobedreadfullyillbythetimetheboathadpassedGreenwich；agroomortwowholoungedintheneighbourhoodofthehorse-boxesundertheircharge，orleanedoverthesidebythepaddle-wheels，andtalkedaboutwhowasgoodfortheLeger，andwhattheystoodtowinorlosefortheGoodwoodcup。
Allthecouriers，whentheyhaddoneplungingabouttheshipandhadsettledtheirvariousmastersinthecabinsoronthedeck，congregatedtogetherandbegantochatterandsmoke；theHebrewgentlemenjoiningthemandlookingatthecarriages。TherewasSirJohn’sgreatcarriagethatwouldholdthirteenpeople；myLordMethuselah’scarriage，myLordBareacres’chariot，britzska，andfourgon，thatanybodymightpayforwholiked。
ItwasawonderhowmyLordgotthereadymoneytopayfortheexpensesofthejourney。TheHebrewgentlemenknewhowhegotit。TheyknewwhatmoneyhisLordshiphadinhispocketatthatinstant，andwhatinteresthepaidforit，andwhogaveithim。Finallytherewasaveryneat，handsometravellingcarriage，aboutwhichthegentlemenspeculated。
“Aquicettevoiturela？”saidonegentleman-courierwithalargemoroccomoney-bagandear-ringstoanotherwithear-ringsandalargemoroccomoney-bag。
“C’estaKirschjebense——jel’aivutouteal’heure——
quibrenoitdessangvichesdanslavoiture。”saidthecourierinafineGermanFrench。
Kirschemergingpresentlyfromtheneighbourhoodofthehold，wherehehadbeenbellowinginstructionsintermingledwithpolyglotoathstotheship’smenengagedinsecretingthepassengers’luggage，cametogiveanaccountofhimselftohisbrotherinterpreters。HeinformedthemthatthecarriagebelongedtoaNabobfromCalcuttaandJamaicaenormouslyrich，andwithwhomhewasengagedtotravel；andatthismomentayounggentlemanwhohadbeenwarnedoffthebridgebetweenthepaddle-boxes，andwhohaddroppedthenceontotheroofofLordMethuselah’scarriage，fromwhichhemadehiswayoverothercarriagesandimperialsuntilhehadclamberedontohisown，descendedthenceandthroughthewindowintothebodyofthecarriage，totheapplauseofthecourierslookingon。
“Nousallonsavoirunebelletraversee，MonsieurGeorge。”saidthecourierwithagrin，asheliftedhisgold-lacedcap。
“D——yourFrench。”saidtheyounggentleman，“where’sthebiscuits，ay？”WhereuponKirschansweredhimintheEnglishlanguageorinsuchanimitationofitashecouldcommand——forthoughhewasfamiliarwithalllanguages，Mr。Kirschwasnotacquaintedwithasingleone，andspokeallwithindifferentvolubilityandincorrectness。
Theimperiousyounggentlemanwhogobbledthebiscuitsandindeeditwastimetorefreshhimself，forhehadbreakfastedatRichmondfullthreehoursbefore
wasouryoungfriendGeorgeOsborne。UncleJosandhismammawereonthequarter-deckwithagentlemanofwhomtheyusedtoseeagooddeal，andthefourwereabouttomakeasummertour。
Joswasseatedatthatmomentondeckundertheawning，andprettynearlyoppositetotheEarlofBareacresandhisfamily，whoseproceedingsabsorbedtheBengaleealmostentirely。Boththenoblecouplelookedratheryoungerthanintheeventfulyear’15，whenJosrememberedtohaveseenthematBrusselsindeed，healwaysgaveoutinIndiathathewasintimatelyacquaintedwiththem。LadyBareacres’hair，whichwasthendark，wasnowabeautifulgoldenauburn，whereasLordBareacres’whiskers，formerlyred，wereatpresentofarichblackwithpurpleandgreenreflectionsinthelight。Butchangedastheywere，themovementsofthenoblepairoccupiedJos’smindentirely。ThepresenceofaLordfascinatedhim，andhecouldlookatnothingelse。
“Thosepeopleseemtointerestyouagooddeal。”saidDobbin，laughingandwatchinghim。Ameliatoolaughed。
Shewasinastrawbonnetwithblackribbons，andotherwisedressedinmourning，butthelittlebustleandholidayofthejourneypleasedandexcitedher，andshelookedparticularlyhappy。
“Whataheavenlyday！”Emmysaidandadded，withgreatoriginality，“Ihopeweshallhaveacalmpassage。”
Joswavedhishand，scornfullyglancingatthesametimeunderhiseyelidsatthegreatfolksopposite。”Ifyouhadmadethevoyageswehave。”hesaid，“youwouldn’tmuchcareabouttheweather。”Butnevertheless，travellerashewas，hepassedthenightdirefullysickinhiscarriage，wherehiscouriertendedhimwithbrandy-and-
waterandeveryluxury。
InduetimethishappypartylandedatthequaysofRotterdam，whencetheyweretransportedbyanothersteamertothecityofCologne。Herethecarriageandthefamilytooktotheshore，andJoswasnotalittlegratifiedtoseehisarrivalannouncedintheColognenewspapersas“HerrGrafLordvonSedleynebstBegleitungausLondon。”Hehadhiscourtdresswithhim；
hehadinsistedthatDobbinshouldbringhisregimentalparaphernalia；heannouncedthatitwashisintentiontobepresentedatsomeforeigncourts，andpayhisrespectstotheSovereignsofthecountrieswhichhehonouredwithavisit。
Whereverthepartystopped，andanopportunitywasoffered，Mr。JoslefthisowncardandtheMajor’supon“OurMinister。”ItwaswithgreatdifficultythathecouldberestrainedfromputtingonhiscockedhatandtightstowaitupontheEnglishconsulattheFreeCityofJudenstadt，whenthathospitablefunctionaryaskedourtravellerstodinner。Hekeptajournalofhisvoyageandnotedelaboratelythedefectsorexcellencesofthevariousinnsatwhichheputup，andofthewinesanddishesofwhichhepartook。
AsforEmmy，shewasveryhappyandpleased。Dobbinusedtocarryaboutforherherstoolandsketch-book，andadmiredthedrawingsofthegood-naturedlittleartistastheyneverhadbeenadmiredbefore。Shesatuponsteamers’decksanddrewcragsandcastles，orshemountedupondonkeysandascendedtoancientrobber-
towers，attendedbyhertwoaides-de-camp，GeorgyandDobbin。Shelaughed，andtheMajordidtoo，athisdrollfigureondonkey-back，withhislonglegstouchingtheground。Hewastheinterpreterfortheparty；havingagoodmilitaryknowledgeoftheGermanlanguage，andheandthedelightedGeorgefoughtthecampaignsoftheRhineandthePalatinate。Inthecourseofafewweeks，andbyassiduouslyconversingwithHerrKirschontheboxofthecarriage，GeorgymadeprodigiousadvanceintheknowledgeofHighDutch，andcouldtalktohotelwaitersandpostilionsinawaythatcharmedhismotherandamusedhisguardian。
Mr。Josdidnotmuchengageintheafternoonexcursionsofhisfellow-travellers。Hesleptagooddealafterdinner，orbaskedinthearboursofthepleasantinn-gardens。PleasantRhinegardens！Fairscenesofpeaceandsunshine——noblepurplemountains，whosecrestsarereflectedinthemagnificentstream——whohaseverseenyouthathasnotagratefulmemoryofthosescenesoffriendlyreposeandbeauty？TolaydownthepenandeventothinkofthatbeautifulRhinelandmakesonehappy。Atthistimeofsummerevening，thecowsaretroopingdownfromthehills，lowingandwiththeirbellstinkling，totheoldtown，withitsoldmoats，andgates，andspires，andchestnut-trees，withlongblueshadowsstretchingoverthegrass；theskyandtheriverbelowflamein-crimsonandgold；andthemoonisalreadyout，lookingpaletowardsthesunset。Thesunsinksbehindthegreatcastle-crestedmountains，thenightfallssuddenly，therivergrowsdarkeranddarker，lightsquiverinitfromthewindowsintheoldramparts，andtwinklepeacefullyinthevillagesunderthehillsontheoppositeshore。
SoJosusedtogotosleepagooddealwithhisbandannaoverhisfaceandbeverycomfortable，andreadalltheEnglishnews，andeverywordofGalignani’sadmirablenewspapermaytheblessingsofallEnglishmenwhohaveeverbeenabroadrestonthefoundersandproprietorsofthatpiraticalprint！andwhetherhewokeorslept，hisfriendsdidnotverymuchmisshim。Yes，theywereveryhappy。Theywenttotheoperaoftenofevenings——tothosesnug，unassuming，dearoldoperasintheGermantowns，wherethenoblessesitsandcries，andknitsstockingsontheoneside，overagainstthebourgeoisieontheother；andHisTransparencytheDukeandhisTransparentfamily，allveryfatandgood-natured，comeandoccupythegreatboxinthemiddle；andthepitisfullofthemostelegantslim-waistedofficerswithstraw-
colouredmustachios，andtwopenceadayonfullpay。
HereitwasthatEmmyfoundherdelight，andwasintroducedforthefirsttimetothewondersofMozartandCimarosa。TheMajor’smusicaltastehasbeenbeforealludedto，andhisperformancesontheflutecommended。
ButperhapsthechiefpleasurehehadintheseoperaswasinwatchingEmmy’srapturewhilelisteningtothem。
Anewworldofloveandbeautybrokeuponherwhenshewasintroducedtothosedivinecompositions；thisladyhadthekeenestandfinestsensibility，andhowcouldshebeindifferentwhensheheardMozart？Thetenderpartsof“DonJuan“awakenedinherrapturessoexquisitethatshewouldaskherselfwhenshewenttosayherprayersofanightwhetheritwasnotwickedtofeelsomuchdelightasthatwithwhich“VedraiCarino“and“BattiBatti“filledhergentlelittlebosom？ButtheMajor，whomsheconsulteduponthishead，ashertheologicaladviserandwhohimselfhadapiousandreverentsoul，saidthatforhispart，everybeautyofartornaturemadehimthankfulaswellashappy，andthatthepleasuretobehadinlisteningtofinemusic，asinlookingatthestarsinthesky，oratabeautifullandscapeorpicture，wasabenefitforwhichwemightthankHeavenassincerelyasforanyotherworldlyblessing。AndinreplytosomefaintobjectionsofMrs。Amelia’stakenfromcertaintheologicalworksliketheWasherwomanofFinchleyCommonandothersofthatschool，withwhichMrs。OsbornehadbeenfurnishedduringherlifeatBromptonhetoldheranEasternfableoftheOwlwhothoughtthatthesunshinewasunbearablefortheeyesandthattheNightingalewasamostoverratedbird。”Itisone’snaturetosingandtheother’stohoot。”hesaid，laughing，“andwithsuchasweetvoiceasyouhaveyourself，youmustbelongtotheBulbulfaction。”
Iliketodwelluponthisperiodofherlifeandtothinkthatshewascheerfulandhappy。Yousee，shehasnothadtoomuchofthatsortofexistenceasyet，andhasnotfalleninthewayofmeanstoeducatehertastesorherintelligence。Shehasbeendomineeredoverhithertobyvulgarintellects。Itisthelotofmanyawoman。Andaseveryoneofthedearsexistherivaloftherestofherkind，timiditypassesforfollyintheircharitablejudgments；andgentlenessfordulness；andsilence——whichisbuttimiddenialoftheunwelcomeassertionofrulingfolks，andtacitprotestantism——aboveall，findsnomercyatthehandsofthefemaleInquisition。Thus，mydearandcivilizedreader，ifyouandIweretofindourselvesthiseveninginasocietyofgreengrocers，letussay，itisprobablethatourconversationwouldnotbebrilliant；if，ontheotherhand，agreengrocershouldfindhimselfatyourrefinedandpolitetea-table，whereeverybodywassayingwittythings，andeverybodyoffashionandreputetearingherfriendstopiecesinthemostdelightfulmanner，itispossiblethatthestrangerwouldnotbeverytalkativeandbynomeansinterestingorinterested。
Anditmustberememberedthatthispoorladyhadnevermetagentlemaninherlifeuntilthispresentmoment。Perhapsthesearerarerpersonagesthansomeofusthinkfor。Whichofuscanpointoutmanysuchinhiscircle——menwhoseaimsaregenerous，whosetruthisconstant，andnotonlyconstantinitskindbutelevatedinitsdegree；whosewantofmeannessmakesthemsimple；whocanlooktheworldhonestlyinthefacewithanequalmanlysympathyforthegreatandthesmall？