第117章
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  Ishouldhavelikedtoformtheiracquaintance,andtolearnwhattheyreallythinkofwhitemenIunderstoodfromSekwebu,andfromoneofChangamera’speoplewholivesatLinyanti,andwaspresentattheattackonSenna,thattheyconsiderthewhitesasaconqueredtribe。

  TheZambesiatMazaroisamagnificentriver,morethanhalfamilewide,andwithoutislandsTheoppositebankiscoveredwithforestsoffinetimber;butthedeltawhichbeginshereisonlyanimmenseflat,coveredwithhigh,coarsegrassandreeds,withhereandthereafewmangoandcocoanuttreesThiswasthepointwhichwasreachedbythelatelamentedCaptainParker,whofellattheSulinamouthoftheDanubeIhadastrongdesiretofollowtheZambesifarther,andascertainwherethisenormousbodyofwaterfounditswayintothesea;butonhearingfromthePortuguesethathehadascendedtothispoint,andhadbeenhighlypleasedwiththecapabilitiesoftheriver,IfeltsurethathisvaluableopinionmustbeinpossessionoftheAdmiraltyOnmyarrivalinEnglandIappliedtoCaptainWashington,HydrographertotheAdmiralty,andhepromptlyfurnishedthedocumentforpublicationbytheRoyalGeographicalSociety。

  TheriverbetweenMazaroandtheseamustthereforebejudgedoffromthetestimonyofonemorecompetenttodecideonitsmeritsthanamerelandsmanlikemyself。

  `OntheQuilimaneandZambesiRivers’FromtheJournalofthelateCaptHYDEPARKER,R。N。,HMBrig“Pantaloon“。

  “TheLuaboisthemainoutletoftheGreatZambesiIntherainyseasonJanuaryandFebruaryprincipallythewholecountryisoverflowed,andthewaterescapesbythedifferentriversasfarupasQuilimane;

  butinthedryseasonneitherQuilimanenorOlindacommunicateswithit。

  ThepositionoftheriverisratherincorrectintheAdmiraltychart,beingsixmilestoomuchtothesouthward,andalsoconsiderablytothewestwardIndeed,thecoastfromhereuptoTongamiaraseemstoofartothewestwardTheentrancetotheLuaboRiverisabouttwomilesbroad,andiseasilydistinguishable,whenabreastofit,byabluffifImaysotermitofhigh,straighttrees,veryclosetogether,onthewesternsideoftheentranceThebarmaybesaidtobeformedbytwoseriesofsand-banks;thatrunningfromtheeasternpointrunsdiagonallyacrossopposite?theentranceandnearlyacrossit。

  Itswesternextremityisabouttwomilesoutsidethewestpoint。

  “Thebankrunningoutfromthewestpointprojectstothesouthwardthreemilesandahalf,passingnotonequarterofamilefromtheeasternorcrossbankThisnarrowpassageistheBARPASSAGE。

  Itbreakscompletelyacrossatlowwater,exceptunderveryextraordinarycircumstancesAtthistimelowwater

  agreatportionofthebanksareuncovered;insomeplacestheyaresevenoreightfeetabovewater。

  “Onthesebanksthereisabreakatalltimes,butinfineweather,athighwater,aboatmaycrossneartheeastpoint。

  Thereisverylittlewater,and,inplaces,anastyraceandbubble,sothatcautionisrequisiteThebestdirectionsforgoinginovertheregularbarpassage,accordingtomyexperience,areasfollows:

  Steerdownwelltotheeastwardofthebarpassage,soastoavoidtheouterpartofthewesternshoals,onwhichthereisusuallyabadsea。

  WhenyougetneartheCROSS-BAR,keepalongittillthebluffoftreesonthewestsideoftheentrancebearsN。E。;youmaythensteerstraightforitThiswillcleartheendoftheCROSS-BAR,and,directlyyouarewithinthat,thewaterissmoothTheworstseaisgenerallyjustwithoutthebarpassage。

  “Withinthepointstheriverwidensatfirstandthencontractsagain。

  AboutthreemilesfromtheTreeBluffisanisland;thepassageuptheriveristheright-handsideofit,anddeepTheplanwillbestexplainit。

  Theriseandfallofthetideattheentranceoftheriverbeingatspringstwentyfeet,anyvesselcangetinatthattime,but,withalltheseconveniencesfortraffic,thereisnonehereatpresent。

  Thewaterintheriverisfreshdowntothebarwiththeebbtide,andintherainyseasonitisfreshatthesurfacequiteoutside。

  Intherainyseason,atthefullandchangeofthemoon,theZambesifrequentlyoverflowsitsbanks,makingthecountryforanimmensedistanceonegreatlake,withonlyafewsmalleminencesabovethewaterOnthebanksoftheriverthehutsarebuiltonpiles,andatthesetimesthecommunicationisonlyincanoes;

  butthewatersdonotremainupmorethanthreeorfourdaysatatime。

  Thefirstvillageisabouteightmilesuptheriver,onthewesternbank,andisoppositetoanotherbranchoftherivercalled`Muselo’,whichdischargesitselfintotheseaaboutfivemilestotheeastward。

  “Thevillageisextensive,andaboutitthereisaverylargequantityoflandincultivation;calavances,orbeans,ofdifferentsorts,rice,andpumpkins,aretheprincipalthingsIsawalsoaboutheresomewildcotton,apparentlyofverygoodquality,butnoneiscultivated。

  Thelandissofertileastoproducealmostanything?withoutmuchtrouble。

  “Atthisvillageisaverylargehouse,mud-built,withacourt-yard。

  Ibelieveittohavebeenusedasabarracoonforslaves,severallargecargoeshavingbeenexportedfromthisriver。

  IproceededuptheriverasfarasitsjunctionwiththeQuilimaneRiver,called`BocadoRio’,bymycomputationbetween70and80milesfromtheentranceTheinfluenceofthetidesisfeltabout25or30milesuptheriverAbovethat,thestream,inthedryseason,runsfrom1-1/2to2-1/2milesanhour,butintherainsmuchstronger。

  Thebanksoftheriver,forthefirst30miles,aregenerallythicklyclothedwithtrees,withoccasionalopengladesTherearemanyhutsandvillagesonbothsides,andagreatdealofcultivationAtonevillage,about17milesupontheeasternbank,anddistinguishedbybeingsurroundedbyanimmensenumberofbananasandplantain-trees,agreatquantityofexcellentpeasarecultivated;alsocabbages,tomatoes,onions,etcAbovethistherearenotmanyinhabitantsontheleftorwestbank,althoughitismuchthefinestcountry,beinghigher,andaboundingincocoanutpalms,theeasternbankbeingsandyandbarrenThereasonis,thatsomeyearsbacktheLandeens,orCaffres,ravagedallthiscountry,killingthemenandtakingthewomenasslaves,buttheyhavenevercrossedtheriver;hencethenativesareafraidtosettleonthewestbank,andthePortugueseownersofthedifferent`prasos’havevirtuallylostthemThebanksoftherivercontinuemostlysandy,withfewtrees,exceptsomecocoanutpalms,untilthesouthernendofthelargeplantationofNyangue,formedbytheriverabout20milesfromMaruruHerethecountryismorepopulousandbettercultivated,thenativesafinerrace,andthehutslargerandbetterconstructedMarurubelongstoSenorAsevedo,ofQuilimane,wellknowntoallEnglishofficersontheeastcoastforhishospitality。

  “Theclimatehereismuchcoolerthannearerthesea,andAsevedohassuccessfullycultivatedmostEuropeanaswellastropicalvegetables。

  Thesugar-canethrives,asalsocoffeeandcotton,andindigoisaweed。

  Cattleherearebeautiful,andsomeofthemmightshowwithcreditinEngland。

  Thenativesareintelligent,andunderagoodgovernmentthisfinecountrymightbecomeveryvaluableThreemilesfromMaruruisMesan,averyprettyvillageamongpalmandmangotreesThereishereagoodhousebelongingtoaSenorFerrao;closebyisthecanalMutuofcommunicationbetweentheQuilimaneandZambesirivers,whichintherainyseasonisnavigable?IvisiteditinthemonthofOctober,whichisaboutthedryesttimeoftheyear;itwasthenadrycanal,about30or40yardswide,overgrownwithtreesandgrass,and,atthebottom,atleast16or17feetabovetheleveloftheZambesi,whichwasrunningbeneathIntherains,bythemarksIsaw,theentranceriseoftherivermustbeverynearly30feet,andthevolumeofwaterdischargedbyittheZambesienormous。

  “AboveMaruruthecountrybeginstobecomemorehilly,andthehighmountainsofBoruruareinsight;thefirstviewoftheseisobtainedbelowNyangue,andtheymustbeofconsiderableheight,asfromthistheyaredistantabove40milesTheyarereportedtocontaingreatmineralwealth;goldandcopperbeingfoundintherange,asalsoCOAL?ThenativesLandeensareabold,independentrace,whodonotacknowledgethePortugueseauthority,andevenmakethempayforleavetopassunmolestedThroughoutthewholecourseoftheriverhippopotamiwereveryabundant,andatonevillageachasebythenativeswaswitnessedTheyharpoontheanimalwithabarbedlance,towhichisattached,byacord3or4fathomslong,aninflatedbladder。

  Thenativesfollowintheircanoes,andlookouttofixmoreharpoonsastheanimalrisestoblow,and,whenexhausted,dispatchhimwiththeirlancesItis,infact,nearlysimilartoawhale-hunt。

  Elephantsandlionsarealsoabundantonthewesternside;

  thelatterdestroymanyoftheblacksannually,andaremuchfearedbythem。

  Alligatorsaresaidtobenumerous,butIdidnotseeany。

  “ThevoyageuptoMaruruoccupiedsevendays,asIdidnotworkthemenattheoar,butitmightbedoneinfour;wereturnedtothebarintwoandahalfdays。

  “ThereisanothermouthoftheZambesisevenmilestothewestwardofLuabo,whichwasvisitedbythe`Castor’spinnace’;andIwasassuredbyLieutenantHoskinsthatthebarwasbetterthantheoneIvisited。”

  TheconclusionsofCaptainParkerarestrengthenedbythoseofLieutAHHHoskins,whowasonthecoastatthesametime,andalsovisitedthisspotHavingappliedtomyfriendforhisdeliberateopiniononthesubject,hepromptlyfurnishedthefollowingnoteinJanuarylast:

  “TheZambesiappearstohavefiveprincipalmouths,ofwhichtheLuaboisthemostsouthernandmostnavigable;Cumana,andtwowhosenamesIdonotknow,nothavingmyselfvisitedit,lyingbetweenitandtheQuilimane,andtheriseandfallatspringtidesonthebaroftheLuabois22feet;andas,inthepassage,thereisNEVER

  lessthanfourfeetIhavingcrosseditatdeadlow-watersprings,thiswouldgiveanaveragedepthsufficientforanycommercialpurposes。

  Theriseandfallissixfeetgreater,thepassagesnarrowandmoredefined,consequentlydeeperandmoreeasilyfoundthanthatoftheQuilimaneRiver。

  Theriverabovethebarisverytortuous,butdeep;anditisobservablethattheinfluenceofthetideisfeltmuchhigherinthisbranchthanintheothers;forwhereasintheCatrinaandCumanaIhaveobtaineddrinkablewateraveryshortdistancefromthemouth,intheLuaboIhaveascendedseventymileswithoutfindingthesaltnessperceptiblydiminished。

  Thiswouldfacilitatenavigation,andIhavenohesitationinsayingthatlittledifficultywouldbeexperiencedinconveyingasteam-vesselofthesizeandcapabilitiesofthegunboatIlatelycommandedashighasthebranchingoffoftheQuilimaneRiverMazaro,which,inthedryseason,isobservedmanyyardsabovetheLuabomainstream;

  thoughIhavebeentoldbythePortuguesethatthefresheswhichcomedowninDecemberandMarchfillittemporarily。

  Thesefreshesdeepentheriverconsiderablyatthattimeoftheyear,andfreshenthewatermanymilesfromthecoastThepopulationofthedelta,exceptintheimmediateneighborhoodofthePortuguese,appearedtobeverysparseAntelopesandhippopotamiwereplentiful;

  theformertameandeasilyshotIinquiredfrequentlyofbothnativesandPortugueseifslaverswereinthehabitofenteringtheretoshiptheircargoes,butcouldnotascertainthattheyhaveeverdonesoinanyexcepttheQuilimaneWithcommonprecautiontheriversarenotunhealthy;for,duringthewholetimeIwasemployedinthemoffandonduringeighteenmonths,inopenboatsandatalltimesoftheyear,frequentlyabsentfromtheshipforamonthorsixweeksatatime,Ihadnot,inmyboat’screwoffourteenmen,morethantwo,andthosemild,casesoffeverToomuchimportancecannotbeascribedtotheuseofquinine,towhichIattributeourcomparativeimmunity,andwithwhichourjudiciouscommander,CommodoreWyvill,keptusamplysuppliedIhopethesefewremarksmaybeofsomelittleuseinconfirmingyourviewsoftheutilityofthatmagnificentriver。

  AHHHoskins。”

  Itoughttoberememberedthatthetestimonyofthesegentlemenisallthemorevaluable,becausetheyvisitedtheriverwhenthewaterwasatitslowest,andthesurfaceoftheZambesiwasnot,asitwasnow,onalevelwithandflowingintotheMutu,butsixteenfeetbeneathitsbed。

  TheMutu,atthepointofdeparture,wasonlytenortwelveyardsbroad,shallow,andfilledwithaquaticplantsTreesandreedsalongthebanksoverhangitsomuch,that,thoughwehadbroughtcanoesandaboatfromTete,wewereunabletoentertheMutuwiththem,andleftthematMazaro。

  DuringmostoftheyearthispartoftheMutuisdry,andwewereevennowobligedtocarryallourluggagebylandforaboutfifteenmiles。

  AsKilimaneiscalled,inallthePortuguesedocuments,thecapitaloftheriversofSenna,itseemedstrangetomethatthecapitalshouldbebuiltatapointwheretherewasnodirectwaterconveyancetothemagnificentriverwhosenameitbore;and,oninquiry,IwasinformedthatthewholeoftheMutuwaslargeindaysofyore,andadmittedofthefreepassageofgreatlaunchesfromKilimanealltheyearround,butthatnowthispartoftheMutuhadbeenfilledup。

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