第118章
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  IwasseizedbyaseveretertianfeveratMazaro,butwentalongtherightbankoftheMututotheN。N。EandEforaboutfifteenmiles。

  WethenfoundthatitwasmadenavigablebyarivercalledthePangazi,whichcomesintoitfromthenorthAnotherriver,flowingfromthesamedirection,calledtheLuare,swellsitstillmore;

  and,lastofall,theLikuare,withthetide,makeuptheriverofKilimane。

  TheMutuatMazaroissimplyaconnectinglink,suchasissooftenseeninAfrica,andneitheritsflownorstoppageaffectstheriverofKilimaneThewatersofthePangaziwerequiteclearcomparedwiththoseoftheZambesi。*

  *Iowethefollowinginformation,ofamuchlaterdate,alsotothepolitenessofCaptainWashingtonHMsloop“Grecian“

  visitedthecoastin1852-3,andthemasterremarksthat“theentrancetotheLuaboisinlat18d51’S。,long36d12’E。,andmaybeknownbyarangeofhummocksonitseasternside,andverylowlandtotheS。WTheentranceisnarrow,and,aswithalltheriversonthiscoast,isfrontedbyabar,whichrendersthenavigation,particularlyforboats,verydangerouswiththewindtothesouthofeastorwest。

  Ourboatsproceededtwentymilesupthisriver,2fathomsonthebar,then2-1/2567fathomsItwasnavigablefartherup,buttheydidnotproceedItisquitepossibleforamoderate-sizedvesseltocrossthebaratspringtides,andbeperfectlylandlockedandhiddenamongthetrees。

  “TheMaiudo,in18d52’S。,36d12’E。,ISNOTMENTIONEDINHORSBURGH,NORLAIDDOWNINTHEADMIRALTYCHART,butis,nevertheless,oneofsomeimportance,andappearstobeoneoftheprincipalstationsforshippingslaves,astheboatsfoundtwobarracoons,about20milesup,bearingeveryindicationofhavingbeenveryrecentlyoccupied,andwhichhadgoodpresumptiveevidencethatthe`Cauraigo’,abrigunderAmericancolors,hadembarkedacargofromthencebutashorttimebeforeTheriverisfrontedbyaportionoftheElephantShoals,atthedistanceofthreeorfourmilesoutside。

  Theeasternbankisformedbylevelsea-cliffsasseenfromtheshipithasthatappearance,highforthispartofthecoast,andconspicuous。

  Thewesternsideiscomposedofthicktrees,andterminatesindeadwood,fromwhichwecalledit`Dead-woodPoint’AftercrossingthebaritbranchesoffinaWandN。Wdirection,thelatterbeingtheprincipalarm,upwhichtheboatswentsome30miles,orabout10beyondthebarracoonFreshwatercanbeobtainedalmostimmediatelyinsidetheentrance,asthestreamrunsdownveryrapidlywiththeebbtideTheleastwatercrossingthebarlow-watersprings

  was1-1/2fathom,onecastonlytherefromfrom2to5fathoms,another7fathomsnearlythewholewayup。

  “TheCatrina,latitude18d50’south,longitude36d24’east。

  TheexternalappearanceofthisriverispreciselysimilartothatoftheMaiudo,somuchsothatitisdifficulttodistinguishthembyanyfeatureofthelandThelongitudeisthebestguide,or,intheabsenceofobservation,perhapstheanglescontainedbytheextremesoflandwillbeserviceableThus,atninemilesofftheMaiudotheanglecontainedbytheabovewassevenpoints,thebearingbeingN。EWofN。W?;whileofftheCatrina,atthesamedistancefromshoreaboutninemiles,theanglewasonly3-1/2to4points,beingNtoN。WAswedidnotsendtheboatsupthisriver,noinformationwasobtained。”

  Myfeverbecameexcessivelysevereinconsequenceoftravelinginthehotsun,andthelonggrassblockingupthenarrowpathsoastoexcludetheair。

  Thepulsebeatwithamazingforce,andfeltasifthumpingagainstthecrownoftheheadThestomachandspleenswelledenormously,givingme,forthefirsttime,anappearancewhichIhadbeendisposedtolaughatamongthePortugueseAtInterrawemetSenhorAsevedo,amanwhoiswellknownbyallwhoevervisitedKilimane,andwhowaspresentedwithagoldchronometerwatchbytheAdmiraltyforhisattentionstoEnglishofficersHeimmediatelytenderedhislargesailinglaunch,whichhadahouseinthestern。

  Thiswasgreatlyinmyfavor,foritanchoredinthemiddleofthestream,andgavemesomerestfromthemosquitoes,whichinthewholeofthedeltaaresomethingfrightfulSailingcomfortablyinthiscommodiouslaunchalongtheriverofKilimane,wereachedthatvillagelatitude17d53’8“S。,longitude36d40’E。onthe20thofMay,1856,whichwantedonlyafewdaysofbeingfouryearssinceIstartedfromCapeTown。

  HereIwasreceivedintothehouseofColonelGaldinoJoseNunes,oneofthebestmeninthecountryIhadbeenthreeyearswithouthearingfrommyfamily;lettershavingfrequentlybeensent,butsomehoworother,withbutasingleexception,theyneverreachedmeIreceived,however,aletterfromAdmiralTrotter,conveyinginformationoftheirwelfare,andsomenewspapers,whichwereatreatindeedHermajesty’sbrigthe“Frolic“hadcalledtoinquireformeintheNovemberprevious,andCaptainNolluth,ofthatship,hadmostconsideratelyleftacaseofwine;

  andhissurgeon,DrJamesWalsh,diviningwhatIshouldneedmost,leftanounceofquinineThesegiftsmademyheartoverflow。

  IhadnottastedanyliquorwhateverduringthetimeIhadbeeninAfrica;

  butwhenreducedinAngolatoextremeweakness,Ifoundmuchbenefitfromalittlewine,andtookfromLoandaonebottleofbrandyinmymedicinechest,intendingtouseitifitwereagainrequired;

  buttheboywhocarrieditwhirledtheboxupsidedown,andsmashedthebottle,soIcannotgivemytestimonyeitherinfavoroforagainstthebrandy。

  ButmyjoyonreachingtheeastcoastwassadlyimbitteredbythenewsthatCommanderMacLune,ofHMbrigantine“Dart“,oncomingintoKilimanetopickmeup,had,withLieutenantWoodruffeandfivemen,beenlostonthebarIneverfeltmorepoignantsorrow。

  Itseemedasifitwouldhavebeeneasierformetohavediedforthem,thanthattheyshouldallbecutofffromthejoysoflifeingenerouslyattemptingtorendermeaserviceIwouldhereacknowledgemydeepobligationstotheEarlofClarendon,totheadmiralattheCape,andothers,forthekindinteresttheymanifestedinmysafety;

  eventheinquiriesmadewereverymuchtomyadvantageIalsoreferwithfeelingsofgratitudetotheGovernorofMozambiqueforofferingmeapassageintheschooner“Zambesi“,belongingtothatprovince;

  andIshallneverforgetthegeneroushospitalityofColonelNunesandhisnephew,withwhomIremainedOneofthediscoveriesIhavemadeisthattherearevastnumbersofgoodpeopleintheworld,andIdomostdevoutlytendermyunfeignedthankstothatGraciousOnewhomercifullywatchedovermeineveryposition,andinfluencedtheheartsofbothblackandwhitetoregardmewithfavor。

  WiththeunitedtestimonyofCaptainParkerandLieutenantHoskins,addedtomyownobservation,therecanbenoreasonabledoubtbutthattherealmouthoftheZambesiisavailableforthepurposesofcommerce。

  ThedeltaisclaimedbythePortuguese,andthesouthernbankoftheLuabo,orCuama,asthispartoftheZambesiissometimescalled,isownedbyindependentnativesoftheCaffrefamily。

  ThePortuguesearethusnearthemainentrancetothenewcentralregion;

  andastheyhaveoflateyearsshown,inanenlightenedandliberalspirit,theirdesiretodeveloptheresourcesofEasternAfricabyproclaimingMozambiqueafreeport,itistobehopedthatthesamespiritwillleadthemtoinvitemercantileenterpriseuptheZambesi,byofferingfacilitiestothosewhomaybeledtopushcommerceintotheregionslyingfarbeyondtheirterritory。

  Theirwishtoco-operateinthenobleworkofdevelopingtheresourcesoftherichcountrybeyondcouldnotbeshownbetterthanbyplacingavillagewithZambesianpilotsattheharborofMitilone,anderectingalight-housefortheguidanceofseafaringmen。

  Ifthisweredone,nonationwouldbeagreatergainerbyitthanthePortuguesethemselves,andassuredlynootherneedsaresuscitationofitscommercemoreTheirkindnesstomepersonallymakesmewishforareturnoftheirancientprosperity;

  andthemostliberalandgenerousactoftheenlightenedyoungkingHMDonPedro,insendingoutorderstosupportmylatecompanionsatthepublicexpenseoftheprovinceofMozambiqueuntilmyreturntoclaimthem,leadsmetohopeforencouragementineverymeasureforeitherthedevelopmentofcommerce,theelevationofthenatives,orabolitionofthetradeinslaves。

  AsfarasIammyselfconcerned,theopeningofthenewcentralcountryisamatterforcongratulationonlyinsofarasitopensupaprospectfortheelevationoftheinhabitantsAsIhaveelsewhereremarked,IviewtheendofthegeographicalfeatasthebeginningofthemissionaryenterpriseItakethelatterterminitsmostextendedsignification,andincludeeveryeffortmadefortheameliorationofourrace,thepromotionofallthosemeansbywhichGodinHisprovidenceisworking,andbringingallHisdealingswithmantoagloriousconsummationEachmaninhissphere,eitherknowinglyorunwittingly,isperformingthewillofourFatherinheaven。

  Menofscience,searchingafterhiddentruths,which,whendiscovered,will,liketheelectrictelegraph,bindmenmorecloselytogether

  soldiersbattlingfortherightagainsttyrannysailorsrescuingthevictimsofoppressionfromthegraspofheartlessmen-stealers

  merchantsteachingthenationslessonsofmutualdependence

  andmanyothers,aswellasmissionaries,allworkinthesamedirection,andalleffortsareoverruledforonegloriousend。

  Ifthereaderhasaccompaniedmethusfar,hemay,perhaps,bedisposedtotakeaninterestintheobjectsIproposetomyself,shouldGodmercifullygrantmethehonorofdoingsomethingmoreforAfrica。

  Asthehighlandsonthebordersofthecentralbasinarecomparativelyhealthy,thefirstobjectseemstobetosecureapermanentpaththither,inorderthatEuropeansmaypassasquicklyaspossiblethroughtheunhealthyregionnearthecoast。

  Theriverhasnotbeensurveyed,butatthetimeIcamedowntherewasabundanceofwaterforalargevessel,andthiscontinuestobethecaseduringfourorfivemonthsofeachyear。

  Themonthsoflowwaterstilladmitofnavigationbylaunches,andwouldpermitsmallvesselsequaltotheThamessteamerstoplywitheaseinthedeepchannelIfasteamerweresenttoexaminetheZambesi,Iwouldrecommendoneofthelightestdraught,andthemonthsofMay,June,andJulyforpassingthroughthedelta;

  andthisnotsomuchforfearofwantofwaterasthedangerofbeinggroundedonasandormudbank,andthehealthofthecrewbeingendangeredbythedelay。

  InthemonthsreferredtonoobstructionwouldbeincurredinthechannelbelowTeteTwentyorthirtymilesabovethatpointwehaveasmallrapid,ofwhichIregretmyinabilitytospeak,asmentionedalreadyIdidnotvisititBut,takingthedistancebelowthispoint,wehave,inroundnumbers,300milesofnavigableriver。

  Abovethisrapidwehaveanotherreachof300miles,withsand,butnomudbanksinit,whichbringsustothefootoftheeasternridge。

  Letitnot,however,bethoughtthatavesselbygoingthitherwouldreturnladenwithivoryandgold-dustThePortugueseofTetepickupallthemerchandiseofthetribesintheirvicinity,and,thoughIcameoutbytraversingthepeoplewithwhomthePortuguesehavebeenatwar,itdoesnotfollowthatitwillbeperfectlysafeforotherstogoinwhosegoodsmaybeastrongertemptationtocupiditythananythingIpossessedWhenwegetbeyondthehostilepopulationmentioned,wereachaverydifferentraceOnthelattermychiefhopesatpresentrest。

  Allofthem,however,arewillingandanxioustoengageintrade,and,whileeagerforthis,nonehaveeverbeenencouragedtocultivatetherawmaterialsofcommerceTheircountryiswelladaptedforcotton;

  andIventuretoentertainthehopethatbydistributingseedsofbetterkindsthanthatwhichisfoundindigenous,andstimulatingthenativestocultivateitbyaffordingthemthecertaintyofamarketforalltheymayproduce,wemayengenderafeelingofmutualdependencebetweenthemandourselvesIhaveatwofoldobjectinview,andbelievethat,byguidingourmissionarylaborssoastobenefitourowncountry,weshalltherebymoreeffectuallyandpermanentlybenefittheheathenSevenyearswerespentatKolobengininstructingmyfriendsthere;butthecountrybeingincapableofraisingmaterialsforexportation,whentheBoersmadetheirmurderousattackandscatteredthetribeforaseason,nonesympathizedexceptafewChristianfriendsHadthepeopleofKolobengbeeninthehabitofraisingtherawmaterialsofEnglishcommerce,theoutragewouldhavebeenfeltinEngland;or,whatismorelikelytohavebeenthecase,thepeoplewouldhaveraisedthemselvesinthescalebybarter,andhavebecome,liketheBasutosofMosheshandpeopleofKuruman,possessedoffire-arms,andtheBoerswouldneverhavemadetheattackatall。

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