Whenapersonofmuchpopularityisburied，allthesurroundingchiefssenddeputationstofireoverthegraveOnoneoccasionatTete，morethanthirtybarrelsofgunpowderwereexpendedEarlyinthemorningofthe21sttheslavesofthedeceasedlady’sbrotherwentroundthevillagemakingalamentation，anddrumswerebeatenallday，astheyareatsuchtimesamongtheheathen。
Thecommandantprovidedforthejourneymostabundantly，andgaveorderstoLieutenantMirandathatIshouldnotbeallowedtopayforanythingallthewaytothecoast，andsentmessagestohisfriendsSenhorsFerrao，Isidore，Asevedo，andNunes，totreatmeastheywouldhimselfFromeveryoneofthesegentlemenIamhappytoacknowledgethatIreceivedmostdisinterestedkindness，andIoughttospeakwellforeverofPortuguesehospitality。
Ihavenotedeachlittleactofcivilityreceived，becausesomehoworotherwehavecometoholdthePortuguesecharacterinratheralowestimation。
Thismayhavearisenpartlyfromthepertinacitywithwhichsomeofthemhavepursuedtheslave-trade，andpartlyfromthecontrastwhichtheynowoffertotheirillustriousancestorstheforemostnavigatorsoftheworld。
Ifmyspecificationoftheirkindnesseswilltendtoengenderamorerespectfulfeelingtothenation，IshallconsidermyselfwellrewardedWehadthreelargecanoesinthecompanywhichhadlatelycomeupwithgoodsfromSennaTheyaremadeverylargeandstrong，muchlargerthananyweeversawintheinterior，andmightstrikewithgreatforceagainstarockandnotbebroken。
Themensitatthesternwhenpaddling，andthereisusuallyalittleshedmadeoverapartofthecanoetoshadethepassengersfromthesun。
TheboatinwhichIwentwasfurnishedwithsuchacovering，soIsatquitecomfortably。
LeaveTeteandproceeddowntheRiverPasstheStockadeofBonga
GorgeofLupata“SpineoftheWorld“WidthofRiver
IslandsWarDrumatShirambaCanoeNavigationReachSenna
ItsruinousStateLandeenslevyFinesupontheInhabitants
CowardiceofnativeMilitiaStateoftheRevenueNodirectTradewithPortugalAttemptstorevivetheTradeofEasternAfrica
CountryroundSennaGorongozo，aJesuitStation
Manica，thebestGoldRegioninEasternAfricaBoat-buildingatSenna
OurDepartureCaptureofaRebelStockadePlantsAlfacinyaandNjefuattheConfluenceoftheShireLandeenOpinionoftheWhites
Mazaro，thepointreachedbyCaptainParkerHisOpinionrespectingtheNavigationoftheRiverfromthistotheOcean
LieutenantHoskins’RemarksonthesamesubjectFever，itsEffects
KindlyreceivedintotheHouseofColonelNunesatKilimane
ForethoughtofCaptainNollothandDrWalshJoyimbittered
DeepObligationstotheEarlofClarendon，etcOndevelopingResourcesoftheInteriorDesirablenessofMissionarySocietiesselectinghealthyStationsArrangementsonleavingmyMen
RetrospectProbableInfluenceoftheDiscoveriesonSlavery
SupplyofCotton，Sugar，etc。，byFreeLaborCommercialStations
DevelopmentoftheResourcesofAfricaaWorkofTimeSiteofKilimane
UnhealthinessDeathofashipwreckedCrewfromFever
TheCaptainsavedbyQuinineArrivalofHMBrig“Frolic“
AnxietyofoneofmyMentogotoEnglandRoughPassageintheBoatstotheShipSekwebu’sAlarmSailforMauritiusSekwebuonboard；
hebecomesinsane；drownshimselfKindnessofMajor-GeneralCMHay
EscapeShipwreckReachHome。
WeleftTeteatnoononthe22d，andintheafternoonarrivedatthegardenofSenhorAManoeldeGomez，son-in-lawandnephewofBonga。
TheCommandantofTetehadsentalettertotherebelBonga，statingthatheoughttotreatmekindly，andhehaddeputedhisson-in-lawtobemyhostBongaisnotatallequaltohisfatherNyaude，whowasamanofgreatabilityHeisalsoinbadodorwiththePortuguese，becausehereceivesallrunawayslavesandcriminalsHedoesnottrustthePortuguese，andisreportedtobeexcessivelysuperstitious。
Ifoundhisson-in-law，Manoel，extremelyfriendly，andabletoconverseinaveryintelligentmannerHewasinhisgardenwhenwearrived，butsoondressedhimselfrespectably，andgaveusagoodteaanddinner。
Afterabreakfastoftea，roastedeggs，andbiscuitsnextmorning，hepresentedsixfowlsandthreegoatsasprovisionsforthejourney。
WhenwepartedfromhimwepassedthestockadeofBongaattheconfluenceoftheLuenya，butdidnotgonearit，asheissaidtobeverysuspiciousThePortugueseadvisedmenottotakeanyobservation，astheinstrumentsmightawakenfearsinBonga’smind，butManoelsaidImightdosoifIwished；
hisgarden，however，beingabovetheconfluence，couldnotavailasageographicalpointTherearesomegoodhousesinthestockade。
Thetreesofwhichitiscomposedseemedtometobeliving，andcouldnotbeburnedItwasstrangetoseeastockademenacingthewholecommerceoftheriverinasituationwherethegunsofavesselwouldhavefullplayonit，butitisaformidableaffairforthosewhohaveonlymuskets。
Ononeoccasion，whenNyaudewasattackedbyKisaka，theyfoughtforweeks；
andthoughNyaudewasreducedtocuttinguphiscopperankletsforballs，hisenemieswerenotabletoenterthestockade。
Onthe24thwesailedonlyaboutthreehours，aswehaddonethedaybefore；
buthavingcometoasmallislandatthewesternentranceofthegorgeofLupata，whereDrLacerdaissaidtohavetakenanastronomicalobservation，andcalledittheislandofMozambique，becauseitwasbelievedtobeinthesamelatitude，or15d1’，Iwishedtoverifyhisposition，andremainedovernight：myinformantsmusthavebeenmistaken，forIfoundtheislandofMozambiqueheretobelat16d34’46“S。
Respectingthisrange，towhichthegorgehasgivenaname，somePortuguesewritershavestatedittobesohighthatsnowliesonitduringthewholeyear，andthatitiscomposedofmarble。
ItisnotsohighinappearanceastheCampsieHillswhenseenfromtheValeofClydeThewesternsideisthemostabrupt，andgivestheideaofthegreatestheight，asitrisesupperpendicularlyfromthewatersixorsevenhundredfeetAsseenfromthisisland，itiscertainlynohigherthanArthur’sSeatappearsfromPrince’sStreet，EdinburghTherockiscompactsiliciousschistofaslightlyreddishcolor，andinthinstrata；theislandonwhichwesleptlooksasiftornofffromtheoppositesideofthegorge，forthestrataaretwistedandtornineverydirectionTheeasternsideoftherangeismuchmoreslopingthanthewestern，coveredwithtrees，anddoesnotgivetheideaofaltitudesomuchasthewesternItextendsaconsiderablewayintotheMaganjacountryinthenorth，andthenbendsroundtowardtheriveragain，andendsintheloftymountainMorumbala，oppositeSennaOntheotherorsouthernsideitisstraighter，butissaidtoendinGorongozo，amountainwestofthesamepoint。
ThepersonwhocalledthisLupata“thespineoftheworld“
evidentlydidnotmeantosaythatitwasatranslationoftheword，foritmeansadefileorgorgehavingperpendicularwalls。
ThisrangedoesnotdeservethenameofeitherCordilleraorSpine，unlesswearewillingtobelievethattheworldhasaverysmallandverycrooked“back-bone“。
Wepassedthroughthegorgeintwohours，andfounditrathertortuous，andbetween200and300yardswideTheriverissaidtobeherealwaysexcessivelydeep；itseemedtomethatasteamercouldpassthroughitatfullspeedAttheeasternentranceofLupatastandtwoconicalhills；theyarecomposedofporphyry，havinglargesquarecrystalsthereinThesehillsarecalledMoendaenGoma，whichmeansafootprintofawildbeastAnotherconicalhillontheoppositebankisnamedKasisipriest，fromhavingabaldtop。
Wesailedonquicklywiththecurrentoftheriver，andfoundthatitspreadouttomorethantwomilesinbreadth；itis，however，fullofislands，whicharegenerallycoveredwithreeds，andwhich，previoustothewar，wereinhabited，andyieldedvastquantitiesofgrain。
Weusuallylandedtocookbreakfast，andthenwentonquickly。
Thebreadthofwaterbetweentheislandswasnowquitesufficientforasailingvesseltotack，andworkhersailsin；theprevailingwindswouldblowherupthestream；butIregrettedthatIhadnotcomewhentheriverwasatitslowestratherthanatitshighest。
Thetestimony，however，ofCaptainParkerandLieutenantHoskins，hereaftertobenoticed，maybeconsideredconclusiveastothecapabilitiesofthisriverforcommercialpurposes。
ThePortuguesestatethatthereishighwaterduringfivemonthsoftheyear，andwhenitislowthereisalwaysachannelofdeepwater。
Butthisisverywinding；andastheriverwearsawaysomeoftheislandsandformsothers，thecourseofthechannelisoftenaltered。
Isupposethatanaccuratechartofitmadeinoneyearwouldnotbeveryreliablethenext；butIbelieve，fromallthatIcanlearn，thattherivercouldbenavigatedinasmallflat-bottomedsteamerduringthewholeyearasfarasTeteAtthistimeasteameroflargesizecouldhavefloatedeasilyTheriverwasmeasuredatthelatterplacebythePortuguese，andfoundbythemtobe1050yardsbroad。
ThebodyofwaterflowingpastwhenIwastherewasverygreat，andthebreadthitoccupiedwhenamongtheislandshadamostimposingeffect。
IcouldnotgetaglimpseofeithershoreAlltherightbankbeyondLupataislowandflat：onthenorth，therangesofhillsanddarklinesbelowthemareseen，butfromtheboatitisimpossibletoseetheshore。
Ionlyguessthebreadthoftherivertobetwomiles；itisprobablymore。
NextdaywelandedatShirambaforbreakfast，havingsailed8-1/2hoursfromLupataThiswasoncetheresidenceofaPortuguesebrigadier，whospentlargesumsofmoneyinembellishinghishouseandgardens：
thesewefoundinentireruin，ashishalf-castesonhaddestroyedall，andthenrebelledagainstthePortuguese，butwithlesssuccessthaneitherNyaudeorKisaka，forhehadbeenseizedandsentaprisonertoMozambiqueashorttimebeforeourvisitAllthesouthernshorehasbeenravagedbytheCaffres，whoareherenamedLandeens，andmostoftheinhabitantswhoremainacknowledgetheauthorityofBonga，andnotofthePortugueseWhenatbreakfast，thepeopleofShirambacommencedbeatingthedrumofwarLieutenantMiranda，whowaswellacquaintedwiththecustomsofthecountry，immediatelystartedtohisfeet，andgotallthesoldiersofourpartyunderarms；hethendemandedofthenativeswhythedrumwasbeatenwhilewewerethereTheygaveanevasivereply；and，astheyemploythismeansofcollectingtheirneighborswhentheyintendtorobcanoes，ourwatchfulnessmayhavepreventedtheirproceedingfarther。
Wespentthenightofthe26thontheislandcalledNkuesi，oppositearemarkablesaddle-shapedmountain，andfoundthatwewerejustonthe17thparalleloflatitudeThesaildowntheriverwasveryfine；
thetemperaturebecominglow，itwaspleasanttothefeelings；
buttheshoresbeingflatandfarfromus，thescenerywasuninterestingWebreakfastedonthe27thatPita，andfoundsomehalf-castePortuguesehadestablishedthemselvesthere，afterfleeingfromtheoppositebanktoescapeKisaka’speople，whowerenowravagingalltheMaganjacountryOntheafternoonofthe27thwearrivedatSenna。
CommandantIsidore’shouse，300yardsS。Wofthemudfortonthebanksoftheriver：lat17d27’1“S。，long35d10’E。
WefoundSennatobetwenty-threeandahalfhours’sailfromTete。
Wehadthecurrententirelyinourfavor，butmetvariouspartiesinlargecanoestoilinglaboriouslyagainstitTheyuselongropes，andpulltheboatsfromtheshoreTheyusuallytakeabouttwentydaystoascendthedistancewehaddescendedinaboutfour。
ThewagespaidtoboatmenareconsideredhighPartofthemenwhohadaccompaniedmegladlyacceptedemploymentfromLieutenantMirandatotakealoadofgoodsinacanoefromSennatoTete。
IthoughtthestateofTetequitelamentable，butthatofSennawastentimesworseAtTetethereissomelife；hereeverythingisinastateofstagnationandruinThefort，builtofsun-driedbricks，hasthegrassgrowingoverthewalls，whichhavebeenpatchedinsomeplacesbypalingTheLandeensvisitthevillageperiodically，andlevyfinesupontheinhabitants，astheyconsiderthePortugueseaconqueredtribe，andveryrarelydoesanativecometotradeSenhorIsidore，thecommandant，amanofconsiderableenergy，hadproposedtosurroundthewholevillagewithpalisadesasaprotectionagainsttheLandeens，andthevillagersweretobeginthisworkthedayafterIleftItwassadtolookattheruinmanifestineverybuilding，butthehalf-castesappeartobeinleaguewiththerebelsandLandeens；forwhenanyattemptismadebythePortuguesetocoercetheenemyordefendthemselves，informationisconveyedatoncetotheLandeencamp，and，thoughthecommandantprohibitsthepaymentoftributetotheLandeens，ontheirapproachthehalf-casteseagerlyransomthemselvesWhenIwasthere，apartyofKisaka’speoplewereravagingthefinecountryontheoppositeshoreTheycamedownwiththeprisonerstheyhadcaptured，andforthwiththehalf-castesofSennawentovertobuyslaves。
Encouragedbythis，Kisaka’speoplecameoverintoSennafullyarmedandbeatingtheirdrums，andwerereceivedintothehouseofanativePortugueseTheyhadthevillageattheirmercy，yetcouldhavebeendrivenoffbyhalfadozenpolicemenThecommandantcouldonlylookonwithbittersorrowHehadsoldiers，itistrue，butitisnotoriousthatthenativemilitiaofbothSennaandKilimaneneverthinkofstandingtofight，butinvariablyrunaway，andleavetheirofficerstobekilledTheyarebraveonlyamongthepeaceableinhabitantsOneofthem，sentfromKilimanewithapacketoflettersorexpresses，arrivedwhileIwasatSenna。