Theclayeysoilformedbythedisintegrationofthemicaschistandtrapisthefavoritesoilforthecoffee；anditisonthesemountainsides，andotherspossessingasimilarredclaysoil，thatthisplanthaspropagateditselfsowidelyThemeadow-landsadjacenttotheSenzaandCoanzabeingunderlaidbythatmarlytufawhichaboundstowardthecoast，andcontainingthesameshells，showthat，previoustotheelevationofthatsideofthecountry，thisregionpossessedsomedeeply-indentedbays。
28THSEPTEMBER，KALUNGWEMBOWewerestillonthesamepathbywhichwehadcome，and，therebeingnomosquitoes，wecouldnowbetterenjoythesceneryRangesofhillsoccupybothsidesofourpath，andthefinelevelroadisadornedwithabeautifulredflowernamedBolcamariaThemarketsorsleeping-placesarewellsuppliedwithprovisionsbygreatnumbersofwomen，everyoneofwhomisseenspinningcottonwithaspindleanddistaff，exactlylikethosewhichwereinuseamongtheancientEgyptiansAwomanisscarcelyeverseengoingtothefields，thoughwithapotonherhead，achildonherback，andthehoeoverhershoulder，butsheisemployedinthisway。
Thecottonwasbroughttothemarketforsale，andIboughtapoundforapennyThiswasthepricedemanded，andprobablydoublewhattheyaskfromeachotherWesawthecottongrowingluxuriantlyallaroundthemarket-placesfromseedsdroppedaccidentally。
Itisseenalsoaboutthenativehuts，and，sofarasIcouldlearn，itwastheAmericancotton，soinfluencedbyclimateastobeperennial。
Wemetintheroadnativespassingwithbundlesofcops，orspindlesfullofcottonthread，andthesetheywerecarryingtootherpartstobewovenintoclothThewomenarethespinners，andthemenperformtheweavingEachwebisabout5feetlong，and15or18incheswide。
Theloomisofthesimplestconstruction，beingnothingbuttwobeamsplacedoneovertheother，thewebstandingperpendicularly。
Thethreadsofthewebareseparatedbymeansofathinwoodenlath，andthewoofpassedthroughbymeansofthespindleonwhichithasbeenwoundinspinning。
ThemodeofspinningandweavinginAngola，and，indeed，throughoutSouthCentralAfrica，issoverylikethesameoccupationsinthehandsoftheancientEgyptians，thatIintroduceawoodcutfromtheinterestingworkofSirGardnerWilkinsonThelowerfiguresareengagedinspinningintherealAfricanmethod，andtheweaversintheleft-handcornerhavetheirwebintheAngolesefashion。*
*Unfortunately，thiswoodcutcannotberepresentedinthisASCIItext。
Thecaptionreads，`AncientSpinningandWeaving，perpetuatedinAfricaatthepresentdayFromWilkinson’s“AncientEgyptians“，p85，86。’
Theweb，orclothontheloom，mentioned，hastheverticalthreads，orthewarp，hanging，perhapsfivefeet，fromahorizontalbeam。
ThewoofispassedthroughfromsidetosideAL。，1997。
Numbersofotherarticlesarebroughtforsaletothesesleeping-places。
ThenativesmithstherecarryontheirtradeIboughttenverygoodtable-knives，madeofcountryiron，fortwopenceeach。
Laborisextremelycheap，forIwasassuredthatevencarpenters，masons，smiths，etc。，mightbehiredforfourpenceaday，andagriculturistswouldgladlyworkforhalfthatsum。*
*Inorderthatthereadermayunderstandthesocialpositionofthepeopleofthiscountry，IheregivethecensusofthedistrictofGolungoAltofortheyear1854，thoughthenumbersareevidentlynotallfurnished：
Thesepeoplepossess300idol-houses，600sheep，5000goats，500oxen，398gardens，25，120hearthsTheauthoritiesfindgreatdifficultyingettingthepeopletofurnishacorrectaccountoftheirnumbers。
Thiscensusisquotedmerelyforthepurposeofgivingageneralideaoftheemploymentsoftheinhabitants。
ThefollowingistakenfromthecensusofIcolloiBengo，andisaddedforasimilarreason：
3232livingwithoutthemarriagetieAllthosewhohavenotbeenmarriedbyapriestaresodistinguished。
Thecattleinthedistrictare：10asses，401oxen，492cows，3933sheep，1699goats，909swine；andasanannualtaxisleviedofsixpenceperheadonallstock，itisprobablethatthereturnsarelessthanthereality。
Beinganxioustoobtainsomemoreknowledgeofthisinterestingcountryanditsancientmissionaryestablishmentsthanthelineofroutebywhichwehadcomeafforded，IresolvedtovisitthetownofMassangano，whichissituatedtothesouthofGolungoAlto，andattheconfluenceoftheriversLucallaandCoanzaThisledmetopassthroughthedistrictofCazengo，whichisratherfamousfortheabundanceandexcellenceofitscoffeeExtensivecoffeeplantationswerefoundtoexistonthesidesoftheseveralloftymountainsthatcomposethisdistrictTheywerenotplantedbythePortuguese。
TheJesuitandothermissionariesareknowntohavebroughtsomeofthefineoldMochaseed，andthesehavepropagatedthemselvesfarandwide；hencetheexcellenceoftheAngolacoffee。
Somehaveassertedthat，asnewplantationswereconstantlydiscoveredevenduringtheperiodofourvisit，thecoffee-treewasindigenous；
butthefactthatpine-apples，bananas，yams，orange-trees，custardapple-trees，pitangas，guavas，andotherSouthAmericantrees，werefoundbymeinthesamelocalitieswiththerecently-discoveredcoffee，wouldseemtoindicatethatallforeigntreesmusthavebeenintroducedbythesameagencyItisknownthattheJesuitsalsointroducedmanyothertreesforthesakeoftheirtimberaloneNumbersofthesehavespreadoverthecountry，somehaveprobablydiedout，andothersfailedtospread，likealonelyspecimenwhichstandsinwhatwastheBotanicGardenofLoanda，and，thoughmostusefulinyieldingasubstituteforfrankincense，istheonlyoneofthekindinAfrica。
Acircumstancewhichwouldfacilitatetheextensivepropagationofthecoffeeontheproperclaysoilisthis：Theseed，whenburiedbeneaththesoil，generallydies，whilethatwhichissownbroadcast，withnocoveringexcepttheshadeofthetrees，vegetatesreadilyTheagentinsowinginthiscaseisabird，whicheatstheouterrind，andthrowsthekernelonthegroundThisplantcannotbearthedirectraysofthesun；
consequently，whenanumberofthetreesarediscoveredintheforest，allthatisnecessaryistoclearawaythebrushwood，andleaveasmanyofthetallforest-treesaswillaffordgoodshadetothecoffee-plantsbelowThefortunatediscovererhasthenaflourishingcoffeeplantation。
Thisdistrict，smallthoughitbe，havingonlyapopulationof13，822，ofwhomtenonlyarewhite，neverthelessyieldsanannualtributetothegovernmentofthirteenhundredcottoncloths，each5feetby18or20inches，oftheirowngrowthandmanufacture。
AccompaniedbythecommandantofCazengo，whowaswellacquaintedwiththispartofthecountry，IproceededinacanoedowntheRiverLucallatoMassanganoThisriverisabout85yardswide，andnavigableforcanoesfromitsconfluencewiththeCoanzatoaboutsixmilesabovethepointwhereitreceivestheLuinhaNearthislatterpointstandthestrong，massiveruinsofanironfoundry，erectedinthetimes1768andbytheorderofthefamousMarquisofPombal。
Thewholeofthebuildingswereconstructedofstone，cementedwithoilandlimeThedamforwater-powerwasmadeofthesamematerials，and27feethighThishadbeenbrokenthroughbyaflood，andsolidblocks，manyyardsinlength，werecarrieddownthestream，affordinganinstructiveexampleofthetransportingpowerofwater。
Therewasnothingintheappearanceoftheplacetoindicateunhealthiness；
buteightSpanishandSwedishworkmen，beingbroughthitherforthepurposeofinstructingthenativesintheartofsmeltingiron，soonfellvictimstodiseaseand“irregularities“Theeffortofthemarquistoimprovethemodeofmanufacturingironwasthusrenderedabortive。
Laborandsubsistenceare，however，soverycheapthatalmostanyamountofworkcanbeexecuted，atacostthatrendersexpensiveestablishmentsunnecessary。
Apartyofnativeminersandsmithsisstillkeptintheemploymentofthegovernment，who，workingtherichblackmagneticironore，produceforthegovernmentfrom480to500barsofgoodmalleableironeverymonthTheyaresupportedbytheappropriationofafewthousandsofasmallfresh-waterfish，called“Cacusu“，aportionofthetaxlevieduponthefishermenoftheCoanzaThisfishissomuchrelishedinthecountrythatthosewhodonotwishtoeatthemcaneasilyconvertthemintomoney。
ThecommandantofthedistrictofMassangano，forinstance，hasarighttoadishofthreehundredeverymorning，aspartofhissalary。
Shell-fisharealsofoundintheCoanza，andthe“Peixemulher“，orwoman-fishofthePortuguese，whichisprobablyaManatee。
ThebanksoftheLucallaareverypretty，wellplantedwithorange-trees，bananas，andthepalm`ElaeisGuineensis’whichyieldstheoilofcommerce。
Largeplantationsofmaize，manioc，andtobaccoareseenalongbothbanks，whichareenlivenedbythefrequentappearanceofnativehousesimbosomedindenseshadygroves，withlittleboysandgirlsplayingaboutthemThebanksaresteep，thewaterhavingcutoutitsbedindarkredalluvialsoilBeforeeverycottageasmallstageiserected，towhichtheinhabitantsmaydescendtodrawwaterwithoutdangerfromthealligatorsSomehavealittlepalisademadeinthewaterforsafetyfromthesereptiles，andothersusetheshellofthefruitofthebaobab-treeattachedtoapoleabouttenfeetlong，withwhich，whilestandingonthehighbank，theymaydrawwaterwithoutfearofaccident。
Manyclimbingplantsrunuptheloftysilk，cotton，andbaobabtrees，andhangtheirbeautifulflowersingayfestoonsonthebranches。
AsweapproachMassangano，thelandonbothbanksoftheLucallabecomesverylevel，andlargeportionsareleftmarshyaftertheannualfloods；
butallisveryfertileAsanillustrationofthestrengthofthesoil，Imaystatethatwesawtobacco-plantsingardensneartheconfluenceeightfeethigh，andeachplanthadthirty-sixleaves，whichwereeighteenincheslongbysixoreightinchesbroad。
ButitisnotapastoraldistrictInourdescentweobservedthetsetse，andconsequentlythepeoplehadnodomesticanimalssavegoats。
WefoundthetownofMassanganoonatongueofratherhighland，formedbytheleftbankoftheLucallaandrightbankoftheCoanza，andreceivedtruePortuguesehospitalityfromSenhorLubata。
Thetownhasmorethanathousandinhabitants；thedistricthas28，063，withonly315slavesItstandsonamoundofcalcareoustufa，containinggreatnumbersoffossilshells，themostrecentofwhichresemblethosefoundinthemarlytufaclosetothecoast。
Thefortstandsonthesouthsideofthetown，onahighperpendicularbankoverhangingtheCoanzaThisriverishereanoblestream，aboutahundredandfiftyyardswide，admittingnavigationinlargecanoesfromthebaratitsmouthtoCambambe，somethirtymilesabovethistown。
There，afinewaterfallhindersfartherascentTenortwelvelargecanoesladenwithcountryproducepassMassanganoeverydayFourgalleonswereconstructedhereaslongagoas1650，whichmusthavebeenofgoodsize，fortheycrossedtheoceantoRioJaneiro。
Massanganodistrictiswelladaptedforsugarandrice，whileCambambeisaverysuperiorfieldforcotton；butthebaratthemouthoftheCoanzawouldpreventtheapproachofasteamerintothisdesirableregion，thoughasmallonecouldplyonitwitheasewhenonceinItisprobablethattheobjectsofthosewhoattemptedtomakeacanalfromCalumbotoLoandawerenotmerelytosupplythatcitywithfreshwater，buttoaffordfacilitiesfortransportationTheremainsofthecanalshowittohavebeenmadeonascalesuitedfortheCoanzacanoes。
ThePortuguesebegananotheronasmallerscalein1811，and，afterthreeyears’labor，hadfinishedonly6000yards。
Nothinggreatorusefulwilleverbeeffectedheresolongasmencomemerelytogetrich，andthenreturntoPortugal。
ThelatitudeofthetownandfortofMassanganois9d37’46“S。，beingnearlythesameasthatofCassangeThecountrybetweenLoandaandthispointbeingcomparativelyflat，arailroadmightbeconstructedatsmallexpense。
ThelevelcountryisprolongedalongthenorthbankoftheCoanzatotheedgeoftheCassangebasin，andarailwaycarriedthitherwouldbeconvenientforthetransportoftheproductsoftherichdistrictsofCassange，PungoAndongo，Ambaca，Cambambe，GolungoAlto，Cazengo，Muchima，andCalumbo；inaword，thewholeofAngolaandindependenttribesadjacenttothiskingdom。
ThePortuguesemerchantsgenerallylooktoforeignenterpriseandtotheirowngovernmentforthemeansbywhichthisameliorationmightbeeffected；but，asIalwaysstatedtothemwhenconversingonthesubject，foreigncapitalistswouldneverruntherisk，unlesstheysawtheAngolesedoingsomethingforthemselves，andthelawssoalteredthatthesubjectsofothernationsshouldenjoythesameprivilegesinthecountrywiththemselves。
ThegovernmentofPortugalhasindeedshownawiseandliberalpolicybyitspermissionforthealienationofthecrownlandsinAngola；
butthelawgivingiteffectissofencedroundwithlimitations，andsodelugedwithverbiage，thattoplainpeopleitseemsanythingbutastraightforwardlicensetoforeignerstobecome`bonafide’landholdersandcultivatorsofthesoilAtpresentthetollspaidonthedifferentlinesofroadsforferriesandbridgesareequaltotheinterestoflargesumsofmoney，thoughbutasmallamounthasbeenexpendedinmakingavailableroads。
TherearetwochurchesandahospitalinruinsatMassangano；
andtheremainsoftwoconventsarepointedout，oneofwhichissaidtohavebeenanestablishmentofblackBenedictines，which，ifsuccessful，consideringthematerialsthebrethrenhadtoworkon，musthavebeenalaboriousundertakingThereisneitherpriestnorschoolmasterinthetown，butIwaspleasedtoobserveanumberofchildrentaughtbyoneoftheinhabitants。
ThecultivatedlandsattachedtoalltheseconventualestablishmentsinAngolaarenowrentedbythegovernmentofLoanda，andthitherthebishoplatelyremovedallthegoldandsilvervesselsbelongingtothem。