第70章
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  IbelievethatmostoftheBechuananationwouldhavedonethesame。

  ButIwasassuredthatthepeoplenearthecoast,withwhomthePortuguesehavetodeal,havenotsomuchregardtodurabilityThisprobablyarisesfromcalicobeingthechiefcirculatingmedium;quantitybeingthenofmoreimportancethanquality。

  Duringtheperiodofmyindisposition,thebishopsentfrequentlytomakeinquiries,and,assoonasIwasabletowalk,IwenttothankhimforhiscivilitiesHiswholeconversationandconductshowedhimtobeamanofgreatbenevolenceandkindnessofheartAlludingtomybeingaProtestant,hestatedthathewasaCatholicfromconviction;

  andthoughsorrytoseeothers,likemyself,followinganotherpath,heentertainednouncharitablefeelings,norwouldheeversanctionpersecutingmeasuresHecomparedthevarioussectsofChristians,intheirwaytoheaven,toanumberofindividualschoosingtopassdownthedifferentstreetsofLoandatooneofthechurches

  allwouldarriveatthesamepointatlastHisgoodinfluence,bothinthecityandthecountry,isuniversallyacknowledged:

  hewaspromotingtheestablishmentofschools,which,thoughformedmoreonthemonasticprinciplethanProtestantsmightapprove,willnodoubtbeablessingHewaslikewisesuccessfullyattemptingtoabolishthenon-marriagecustomofthecountry;andseveralmarriageshadtakenplaceinLoandaamongthosewho,butforhisteaching,wouldhavebeencontentwithconcubinage。

  StPauldeLoandahasbeenaveryconsiderablecity,butisnowinastateofdecayItcontainsabouttwelvethousandinhabitants,mostofwhomarepeopleofcolor。*Therearevariousevidencesofitsformermagnificence,especiallytwocathedrals,oneofwhich,onceaJesuitcollege,isnowconvertedintoaworkshop;

  andinpassingtheother,wesawwithsorrowanumberofoxenfeedingwithinitsstatelywallsThreefortscontinueinagoodstateofrepairManylargestonehousesaretobefound。

  Thepalaceofthegovernorandgovernmentofficesarecommodiousstructures,butnearlyallthehousesofthenativeinhabitantsareofwattleanddaub。

  Treesareplantedalloverthetownforthesakeofshade,andthecitypresentsanimposingappearancefromthesea。

  Itisprovidedwithaneffectivepolice,andthecustom-housedepartmentisextremelywellmanagedAllpartiesagreeinrepresentingthePortugueseauthoritiesasbothpoliteandobliging;

  andifeveranyinconvenienceisfeltbystrangersvisitingtheport,itmustbeconsideredthefaultofthesystem,andnotofthemen。

  *Fromthecensusof1850-51wefindthepopulationofthiscityarrangedthus:830whites,only160ofwhomarefemales。

  Thisisthelargestcollectionofwhitesinthecountry,forAngolaitselfcontainsonlyabout1000whites。

  Thereare2400half-castesinLoanda,andonly120ofthemslaves;

  andthereare9000blacks,morethan5000ofwhomareslaves。

  Theharborisformedbythelow,sandyislandofLoanda,whichisinhabitedbyabout1300souls,upwardof600ofwhomareindustriousnativefishermen,whosupplythecitywithabundanceofgoodfishdailyThespacebetweenitandthemainland,onwhichthecityisbuilt,isthestationforships。

  Whenahighsouthwestwindblows,thewavesoftheoceandashoverpartoftheisland,and,drivinglargequantitiesofsandbeforethem,graduallyfilluptheharborGreatquantitiesofsoilarealsowashedintherainyseasonfromtheheightsabovethecity,sothattheport,whichoncecontainedwatersufficienttofloatthelargestshipsclosetothecustom-house,isnowatlowwaterdry。

  Theshipsarecompelledtoanchoraboutamilenorthoftheiroldstation。

  NearlyallthewaterconsumedinLoandaisbroughtfromtheRiverBengobymeansoflaunches,theonlysupplythatthecityaffordsbeingfromsomedeepwellsofslightlybrackishwater。

  Unsuccessfulattemptshavebeenmadebydifferentgovernorstofinishacanal,whichtheDutch,whileinpossessionofLoandaduringthesevenyearspreceding1648,hadbegun,tobringwaterfromtheRiverCoanzatothecity。

  ThereisnotasingleEnglishmerchantatLoanda,andonlytwoAmerican。

  Thisisthemoreremarkable,asnearlyallthecommerceiscarriedonbymeansofEnglishcalicobroughthitherviaLisbon。

  SeveralEnglishhousesattemptedtoestablishatradeabout1845,andacceptedbillsonRiodeJaneiroinpaymentfortheirgoods,buttheincreasedactivityofourcruisershadsuchaneffectuponthemercantilehousesofthatcitythatmostofthemfailed。

  TheEnglishmerchantslostall,andLoandagotabadnameinthecommercialworldinconsequence。

  Oneofthearrangementsofthecustom-housemayhavehadsomeinfluenceinpreventingEnglishtradeShipscomingheremustbeconsignedtosomeoneonthespot;theconsigneereceivesonehundreddollarspermast,andhegenerallymakesagreatdealmoreforhimselfbyputtingapercentageonboatsandmenhiredforloadingandunloading,andoneveryitemthatpassesthroughhishandsTheportchargesarealsorenderedheavybytwentydollarsbeingchargedasaperquisiteofthesecretaryofgovernment,withafeeforthechiefphysician,somethingforthehospital,custom-houseofficers,guards,etc。,etcBut,withallthesedrawbacks,theAmericanscarryonabriskandprofitabletradeincalico,biscuit,flour,butter,etc。,etc。

  ThePortuguesehomegovernmenthasnotgenerallyreceivedthecreditforsincerityinsuppressingtheslave-tradewhichIconceivetobeitsdue。

  In1839,myfriendMrGabrielsaw37slave-shipslyinginthisharbor,waitingfortheircargoes,undertheprotectionofthegunsoftheforts。

  Atthattimeslavershadtowaitmanymonthsatatimeforahumanfreight,andacertainsumperheadwaspaidtothegovernmentforallthatwereexportedThedutiesderivedfromtheexportationofslavesfarexceededthosefromothercommerce,and,byagreeingtothesuppressionofthisprofitabletraffic,thegovernmentactuallysacrificedthechiefpartoftheexportrevenueSincethatperiod,however,therevenuefromlawfulcommercehasverymuchexceededthatonslaves。

  TheintentionsofthehomePortuguesegovernment,howevergood,cannotbefullycarriedoutunderthepresentsystemThepayoftheofficersissoverysmallthattheyarenearlyallobligedtoengageintrade;

  and,owingtothelucrativenatureoftheslave-trade,thetemptationtoengageinitissopowerful,thatthephilanthropicstatesmenofLisbonneedhardlyexpecttohavetheirhumaneandenlightenedviewscarriedout。

  Thelaw,forinstance,latelypromulgatedfortheabolitionofthecarriersystemcarregadoresisbutoneofseveralequallyhumaneenactmentsagainstthismodeofcompulsorylabor,butthereisverylittleprobabilityofthebenevolentintentionsoftheLegislaturebeingcarriedintoeffect。

  Loandaisregardedsomewhatasapenalsettlement,andthosewholeavetheirnativelandforthiscountrydosowiththehopeofgettingrichinafewyears,andthenreturninghomeTheyhavethusnomotiveforseekingthepermanentwelfareofthecountry。

  ThePortugueselawpreventingthesubjectsofanyothernationfromholdinglandedpropertyunlesstheybecomenaturalized,thecountryhasneithertheadvantageofnativenorforeignenterprise,andremainsverymuchinthesamestateasouralliesfounditin1575。

  NearlyalltheEuropeansoldierssentoutareconvicts,and,contrarytowhatmightbeexpectedfrommenintheirposition,behaveremarkablywellAfewriotshaveoccurred,butnothingatallsoseriousashavetakenplaceinourownpenalsettlements。

  ItisaremarkablefactthatthewholeofthearmsofLoandaareeverynightinthehandsofthosewhohavebeenconvicts。

  Variousreasonsforthismildbehaviorareassignedbytheofficers,butnoneofthese,whenviewedinconnectionwithourownexperienceinAustralia,appeartobevalidReligionseemstohavenoconnectionwiththechangePerhapstheclimatemayhavesomeinfluenceinsubduingtheirturbulentdisposition,fortheinhabitantsgenerallyareatimidrace;

  theyarenothalfsobraveasourCaffresThepeopleofAmbrizranawaylikeaflockofsheep,andallowedthePortuguesetotakepossessionoftheircopperminesandcountrywithoutstrikingablow。

  Ifwemusthaveconvictsettlements,attentiontotheclimatemightbeofadvantageintheselectionHereevenbullsaremuchtamerthanwithusInevermetwithaferociousoneinthiscountry,andthePortugueseusethemgenerallyforriding;anoxisseldomseen。

  TheobjectswhichIhadinviewinopeningupthecountry,asstatedinafewnotesofmyjourney,publishedinthenewspapersofAngola,socommendedthemselvestothegeneralgovernmentandmerchantsofLoanda,that,attheinstanceofhisexcellencythebishop,ahandsomepresentforSekeletuwasgrantedbytheBoardofPublicWorksJuntadaFazendaPublicaItconsistedofacolonel’scompleteuniformandahorseforthechief,andsuitsofclothingforallthemenwhoaccompaniedmeThemerchantsalsomadeapresent,bypublicsubscription,ofhandsomespecimensofalltheirarticlesoftrade,andtwodonkeys,forthepurposeofintroducingthebreedintohiscountry,astsetsecannotkillthisbeastofburdenThesepresentswereaccompaniedbylettersfromthebishopandmerchants;andIwaskindlyfavoredwithlettersofrecommendationtothePortugueseauthoritiesinEasternAfrica。

  Itookwithmeagoodstockofcottoncloth,freshsuppliesofammunitionandbeads,andgaveeachofmymenamusket。

  Asmycompanionshadamassedconsiderablequantitiesofgoods,theywereunabletocarrymine,butthebishopfurnishedmewithtwentycarriers,andsentforwardorderstoallthecommandantsofthedistrictsthroughwhichweweretopasstorendermeeveryassistanceintheirpowerBeingnowsuppliedwithagoodnewtentmadebymyfriendsonboardthePhilomel,weleftLoandaonthe20thofSeptember,1854,andpassedroundbyseatothemouthoftheRiverBengo。

  Ascendingthisriver,wewentthroughthedistrictinwhichstandtheruinsoftheconventofStAntonio;thenceintoIcolloiBengo,whichcontainsapopulationof6530blacks,172mulattoes,and11whites,andissonamedfromhavingbeentheresidenceofaformernativeking。

  Theproportionofslavesisonly3。38percentoftheinhabitants。

  Thecommandantofthisplace,LaurenceJoseMarquis,isafrankoldsoldierandamosthospitableman;heisoneofthefewwhosecuretheuniversalapprobationoftheirfellow-menforstern,unflinchinghonesty,andhasrisenfromtherankstobeamajorinthearmy。

  Wewereaccompaniedthusfarbyourgeneroushost,EdmundGabriel,Esq。,who,byhisunweariedattentionstomyself,andliberalityinsupportingmymen,hadbecomeendearedtoallourheartsMymenwerestronglyimpressedwithasenseofhisgoodness,andoftenspokeofhimintermsofadmirationallthewaytoLinyanti。

  Whileherewevisitedalargesugarmanufactorybelongingtoalady,DonnaAnnadaSousaTheflatalluviallandsonthebanksoftheSenzaorBengoarewelladaptedforraisingsugar-cane,andthisladyhadasurprisingnumberofslaves,butsomehowtheestablishmentwasfarfrombeinginaflourishingconditionItpresentedsuchacontrasttothefree-laborestablishmentsoftheMauritius,whichIhavesinceseen,where,withnotonetenthofthenumberofhands,orsuchgoodsoil,amanofcolorhad,inoneyear,cleared5000Poundsbyasinglecrop,thatIquotethefact,inhopesitmaymeettheeyeofDonnaAnna。

  Thewateroftheriverismuddy,anditisobservedthatsuchrivershavemanymoremosquitoesthanthosewhichhaveclearwater。

  Itwasremarkedtousherethattheseinsectsaremuchmorenumerousattheperiodofnewmoonthanatothertimes;atanyrate,wewereallthankfultogetawayfromtheSenzaanditsinsectplagues。

  Thewholeofthispartofthecountryiscomposedofmarlytufa,containingthesamekindofshellsasthoseatpresentaliveintheseas。

  Asweadvancedeastwardandascendedthehigherlands,wefounderuptivetrap,whichhadtiltedupimmensemassesofmicaandsandstoneschists。

  Themicaschistalmostalwaysdippedtowardtheinteriorofthecountry,formingthosemountainrangesofwhichwehavealreadyspokenasgivingahighlandcharactertothedistrictofGolungoAlto。

  Thetraphasfrequentlyrunthroughthegorgesmadeintheupheavedrocks,andatthepointsofjunctionbetweentheigneousandolderrockstherearelargequantitiesofstronglymagneticironore。

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