Thisgentlemanhadnowafineestate，whichbutafewyearsagowasaforest，andcosthimonly16PoundsHehadplantedabout900coffee-treesuponit，andasthesebegintoyieldinthreeyearsfrombeingplanted，andinsixattaintheirmaximum，Ihavenodoubtbutthaterenowhis16PoundsyieldshimsixtyfoldAllsortsoffruit-treesandgrape-vinesyieldtheirfruittwiceineachyear，withoutanylabororirrigationbeingbestowedonthemAllgrainsandvegetables，ifonlysown，dothesame；
andifadvantageistakenofthemistsofwinter，eventhreecropsofpulsemayberaisedCottonwasnowstandinginthepodsinhisfields，andhedidnotseemtocareaboutitIunderstoodhimtosaythatthislastplantflourishes，butthewetofoneofthetworainyseasonswithwhichthiscountryisfavoredsometimesprovestroublesometothegrower。
Iamnotawarewhetherwheathaseverbeentried，butIsawbothfigsandgrapesbearingwellThegreatcomplaintofallcultivatorsisthewantofagoodroadtocarrytheirproducetomarket。
Hereallkindsoffoodareremarkablycheap。
Fartheronweleftthemountainouscountry，and，aswedescendedtowardthewestcoast，sawthelandsassumingamoresterile，uninvitingaspect。
OnourrightrantheRiverSenza，whichnearertheseatakesthenameofBengoItisaboutfiftyyardsbroad，andnavigableforcanoes。
Thelowplainsadjacenttoitsbanksareprotectedfrominundationbyembankments，andthepopulationisentirelyoccupiedinraisingfoodandfruitsforexportationtoLoandabymeansofcanoes。
ThebanksareinfestedbymyriadsofthemostferociousmosquitoesIevermet。
NotoneofourpartycouldgetasnatchofsleepIwastakenintothehouseofaPortuguese，butwassoongladtomakemyescapeandlieacrossthepathontheleesideofthefire，wherethesmokeblewovermybodyMyhostwonderedatmywantoftaste，andIathiswantoffeeling；for，toourastonishment，heandtheotherinhabitantshadactuallybecomeusedtowhatwasatleastequaltoanailthroughtheheelofone’sboot，orthetooth-ache。
Aswewerenowdrawingneartothesea，mycompanionswerelookingateverythinginaseriouslightOneofthemaskedmeifweshouldallhaveanopportunityofwatchingeachotheratLoanda。
“Supposeonewentforwater，wouldtheothersseeifhewerekidnapped？”
Ireplied，“Iseewhatyouaredrivingat；andifyoususpectme，youmayreturn，forIamasignorantofLoandaasyouare；
butnothingwillhappentoyoubutwhathappenstomyself。
Wehavestoodbyeachotherhitherto，andwilldosotothelast。”
TheplainsadjacenttoLoandaaresomewhatelevatedandcomparativelysterile。
Oncomingacrossthesewefirstbeheldthesea：mycompanionslookedupontheboundlessoceanwithaweOndescribingtheirfeelingsafterward，theyremarkedthat“wemarchedalongwithourfather，believingthatwhattheancientshadalwaystolduswastrue，thattheworldhasnoend；butallatoncetheworldsaidtous，`Iamfinished；thereisnomoreofme！’“Theyhadalwaysimaginedthattheworldwasoneextendedplainwithoutlimit。
Theywerenowsomewhatapprehensiveofsufferingwant，andIwasunabletoallaytheirfearswithanypromiseofsupply，formyownmindwasdepressedbydiseaseandcareThefeverhadinducedastateofchronicdysentery，sotroublesomethatIcouldnotremainontheoxmorethantenminutesatatime；andaswecamedownthedeclivityabovethecityofLoandaonthe31stofMay，Iwaslaboringundergreatdepressionofspirits，asIunderstoodthat，inapopulationoftwelvethousandsouls，therewasbutonegenuineEnglishgentlemanInaturallyfeltanxioustoknowwhetherhewerepossessedofgood-nature，orwasoneofthosecrustymortalsonewouldrathernotmeetatall。
Thisgentleman，MrGabriel，ourcommissionerforthesuppressionoftheslave-trade，hadkindlyforwardedaninvitationtomeetmeonthewayfromCassange，but，unfortunately，itcrossedmeontheroad。
Whenweenteredhisporch，Iwasdelightedtoseeanumberofflowerscultivatedcarefully，andinferredfromthiscircumstancethathewas，whatIsoondiscoveredhimtobe，arealwhole-heartedEnglishman。
Seeingmeill，hebenevolentlyofferedmehisbedNevershallIforgettheluxuriouspleasureIenjoyedinfeelingmyselfagainonagoodEnglishcouch，aftersixmonths’sleepingontheground。
Iwassoonasleep；andMrGabriel，cominginalmostimmediately，rejoicedatthesoundnessofmyrepose。
Chapter20。
ContinuedSicknessKindnessoftheBishopofAngolaandherMajesty’sOfficersMrGabriel’sunweariedHospitality
SeriousDeportmentoftheMakololoTheyvisitShipsofWar
PolitenessoftheOfficersandMenTheMakololoattendMassintheCathedralTheirRemarksFindEmploymentincollectingFirewoodandunloadingCoalTheirsuperiorJudgmentrespectingGoodsBeneficialInfluenceoftheBishopofAngola
TheCityofStPauldeLoandaTheHarborCustom-house
NoEnglishMerchantsSincerityofthePortugueseGovernmentinsuppressingtheSlave-tradeConvictSoldiers
PresentsfromBishopandMerchantsforSekeletuOutfitLeaveLoanda20thSeptember，1854AccompaniedbyMrGabrielasfarasIcolloiBengoSugarManufactoryGeologyofthispartoftheCountry
WomenspinningCottonItsPriceNativeWeaversMarket-places
Cazengo；itsCoffeePlantationsSouthAmericanTrees
RuinsofIronFoundryNativeMinersTheBanksoftheLucalla
CottageswithStagesTobacco-plantsTownofMassangano
SugarandRiceSuperiorDistrictforCottonPortugueseMerchantsandforeignEnterpriseRuinsTheFortanditsancientGuns
FormerImportanceofMassanganoFiresTheTribeKisama
PeculiarVarietyofDomesticFowlCoffeePlantations
ReturntoGolungoAltoSelf-complacencyoftheMakololo
FeverJaundiceInsanity。
InthehopethatashortenjoymentofMrGabriel’sgeneroushospitalitywouldrestoremetomywontedvigor，Icontinuedunderhisroof；
butmycomplainthavingbeencausedbylongexposuretomalariousinfluences，Ibecamemuchmorereducedthanever，evenwhileenjoyingrest。
SeveralPortuguesegentlemencalledonmeshortlyaftermyarrival；
andtheBishopofAngola，theRightReverendJoaquimMoreiraReis，thentheactinggovernoroftheprovince，senthissecretarytodothesame，andlikewisetooffertheservicesofthegovernmentphysician。
Someofhermajesty’scruiserssooncameintotheport，and，seeingtheemaciatedconditiontowhichIwasreduced，offeredtoconveymetoStHelenaorhomeward；but，thoughIhadreachedthecoast，Ihadfoundthat，inconsequenceofthegreatamountofforest，rivers，andmarsh，therewasnopossibilityofahighwayforwagons，andIhadbroughtapartyofSekeletu’speoplewithme，andfoundthetribesnearthePortuguesesettlementsoveryunfriendly，thatitwouldbealtogetherimpossibleformymentoreturnalone。
Ithereforeresolvedtodeclinethetemptingoffersofmynavalfriends，andtakebackmyMakololocompanionstotheirchief，withaviewoftryingtomakeapathfromhiscountrytotheeastcoastbymeansofthegreatriverZambesiorLeeambye。
I，however，gladlyavailedmyselfofthemedicalassistanceofMrCockin，thesurgeonofthe“Polyphemus“，atthesuggestionofhiscommander，CaptainPhillipsMrCockin’streatment，aidedbytheexhilaratingpresenceofthewarm-heartednavalofficers，andMrGabriel’sunweariedhospitalityandcare，soonbroughtmeroundagainOnthe14thIwassofarwellastocallonthebishop，incompanywithmyparty，whowerearrayedinnewrobesofstripedcottonclothandredcaps，allpresentedtothembyMrGabrielHereceivedus，asheadoftheprovisionalgovernment，inthegrandhallofthepalace。
HeputmanyintelligentquestionsrespectingtheMakololo，andthengavethemfreepermissiontocometoLoandaasoftenastheypleased。
ThisinterviewpleasedtheMakololoextremely。
EveryoneremarkedtheseriousdeportmentoftheMakololoTheyviewedthelargestonehousesandchurchesinthevicinityofthegreatoceanwithawe。
Ahousewithtwostorieswas，untilnow，beyondtheircomprehension。
Inexplanationofthisstrangething，Ihadalwaysbeenobligedtousethewordforhut；andashutsareconstructedbythepolesbeingletintotheearth，theynevercouldcomprehendhowthepolesofonehutcouldbefoundedupontheroofofanother，orhowmencouldliveintheupperstory，withtheconicalroofoftheloweroneinthemiddle。
SomeMakololo，whohadvisitedmylittlehouseatKolobeng，intryingtodescribeittotheircountrymenatLinyanti，said，“Itisnotahut；itisamountainwithseveralcavesinit。”
CommanderBedingfeldandCaptainSkeneinvitedthemtovisittheirvessels，the“Pluto“and“Philomel“Knowingtheirfears，Itoldthemthatnooneneedgoifheentertainedtheleastsuspicionoffoulplay。
Nearlythewholepartywent；andwhenondeck，Ipointedtothesailors，andsaid，“Nowtheseareallmycountrymen，sentbyourqueenforthepurposeofputtingdownthetradeofthosethatbuyandsellblackmen。”
Theyreplied，“Truly！theyarejustlikeyou！”andalltheirfearsseemedtovanishatonce，fortheywentforwardamongthemen，andthejollytars，actingmuchastheMakololowouldhavedoneinsimilarcircumstances，handedthemashareofthebreadandbeefwhichtheyhadfordinnerThecommanderallowedthemtofireoffacannon；
and，havingthemostexaltedideasofitspower，theyweregreatlypleasedwhenItoldthem，“Thatiswhattheyputdowntheslave-tradewith。”
Thesizeofthebrig-of-waramazedthem“Itisnotacanoeatall；
itisatown！”Thesailors’decktheynamed“theKotla“；
andthen，asaclimaxtotheirdescriptionofthisgreatark，added，“Andwhatsortofatownisitthatyoumustclimbupintowitharope？”
TheeffectofthepolitenessoftheofficersandmenontheirmindswasmostbeneficialTheyhadbehavedwiththegreatestkindnesstomeallthewayfromLinyanti，andInowroserapidlyintheirestimation；
for，whatevertheymayhavesurmisedbefore，theynowsawthatIwasrespectedamongmyowncountrymen，andalwaysafterwardtreatedmewiththegreatestdeference。
Onthe15ththerewasaprocessionandserviceofthemassintheCathedral；
and，wishingtoshowmymenaplaceofworship，Itookthemtothechurch，whichnowservesasthechiefoneoftheseeofAngolaandCongo。
ThereisanimpressiononsomemindsthatagorgeousritualisbettercalculatedtoinspiredevotionalfeelingsthanthesimpleformsoftheProtestantworshipButherethefrequentgenuflexions，changingofpositions，burningofincense，withthepriests’backturnedtothepeople，thelaughing，talking，andmanifestirreverenceofthesingers，withfiringofguns，etc。，didnotconveytothemindsofmymentheideaofadorationIoverheardthem，intalkingtoeachother，remarkthat“theyhadseenthewhitemencharmingtheirdemons；“
aphraseidenticalwithonetheyhadusedwhenseeingtheBalondabeatingdrumsbeforetheiridols。
InthebeginningofAugustIsufferedasevererelapse，whichreducedmetoamereskeletonIwasthenunabletoattendtomymenforaconsiderabletime；butwheninconvalescencefromthislastattack，IwasthankfultofindthatIwasfreefromthatlassitudewhich，inmyfirstrecovery，showedthecontinuanceofthemalariainthesystem。
Ifoundthatmymen，withoutprompting，hadestablishedabrisktradeinfire-woodTheysalliedforthatcock-crowinginthemornings，andbydaylightreachedtheuncultivatedpartsoftheadjacentcountry，collectedabundleoffire-wood，andreturnedtothecity。
Itwasthendividedintosmallerfagots，andsoldtotheinhabitants；
andastheygavelargerquantitiesthantheregularwood-carriers，theyfoundnodifficultyinsellingAshipfreightedwithcoalforthecruisershavingarrivedfromEngland，MrGabrielprocuredthememploymentinunloadingheratsixpenceadayTheycontinuedatthisworkforupwardofamonth，andnothingcouldexceedtheirastonishmentatthevastamountofcargooneshipcontainedAstheythemselvesalwaysafterwardexpressedit，theyhadlaboredeverydayfromsunrisetosunsetforamoonandahalf，unloading，asquicklyastheycould，“stonesthatburn“，andweretiredout，stillleavingplentyinherWiththemoneysoobtainedtheypurchasedclothing，beads，andotherarticlestotakebacktotheirowncountry。
TheirideasofthevalueofdifferentkindsofgoodsratherastonishedthosewhohaddealtonlywithnativesonthecoastHearingitstatedwithconfidencethattheAfricanspreferredthethinnestfabrics，providedtheyhadgaudycolorsandalargeextentofsurface，theideawassonewtomyexperienceintheinteriorthatIdissented，and，inordertoshowthesuperiorgoodsenseoftheMakololo，tookthemtotheshopofMrSchutWhenheshowedthemtheamountofgeneralgoodswhichtheymightprocureatLoandaforasingletusk，Irequestedthem，withoutassigninganyreason，topointoutthefabricstheyprizedmostTheyallatonceselectedthestrongestpiecesofEnglishcalicoandothercloths，showingthattheyhadregardtostrengthwithoutreferencetocolor。