Atthetimeofourvisit，GeneralKearneywasmakinghispreparationstoreturnoverlandtotheUnitedStates，andhearrangedtosecureavolunteerescortoutofthebattalionofMormonsthatwasthenstationedatSanLuisRey，underColonelCookeandaMajorHunt。Thisbattalionwasonlyenlistedforoneyear，andthetimefortheirdischargewasapproaching，anditwasgenerallyunderstoodthatthemajorityofthemenwantedtobedischargedsoastojointheMormonswhohadhaltedatSaltLake，butalieutenantandaboutfortymenvolunteeredtoreturntoMissouriastheescortofGeneralKearney。Theseweremountedonmulesandhorses，andIwasappointedtoconductthemtoMontereybyland。LeavingthepartyatLosAngelestofollowbyseaintheLexington，IstartedwiththeMormondetachmentandtraveledbyland。Weaveragedaboutthirtymilesaday，stoppedonedayatSantaBarbara，whereIsawColonelBurton，andsoonbytheusuallytraveledroadtoMonterey，reachingitinaboutfifteendays，arrivingsomedaysinadvanceoftheLexington。Thisgavemethebestkindofanopportunityforseeingthecountry，whichwasverysparselypopulatedindeed，exceptbyafewfamiliesatthevariousMissions。Wehadnowheeledvehicles，butpackedourfoodandclothingonmulesdrivenahead，andwesleptonthegroundintheopenair，therainyseasonhavingpassed。Fremontfollowedmebylandinafewdays，and，bytheendofMay，GeneralKearneywasallreadyatMontereytotakehisdeparture，leavingtosucceedhimincommandColonelR。B。Mason，FirstDragoons。OurCaptain（Tompkins），too，hadbecomediscontentedathisseparationfromhisfamily，tenderedhisresignationtoGeneralKearney，andavailedhimselfofasailing—vesselboundforCallaotoreachtheEast。
ColonelMasonselectedmeashisadjutant—general;andontheverylastdayofMayGeneralKearney，withhisMormonescort，withColonelCooke，ColonelSwords（quartermaster），CaptainTurner，andanavalofficer，CaptainRadford，tookhisdeparturefortheEastoverland，leavingusinfullpossessionofCaliforniaanditsfate。
FremontalsoleftCaliforniawithGeneralKearney，andwithhimdepartedallcauseofconfusionanddisorderinthecountry。FromthattimeforthnoonecoulddisputetheauthorityofColonelMasonasincommandofalltheUnitedStatesforcesonshore，whiletheseniornavalofficerhadalikecontrolafloat。ThiswasCommodoreJamesBiddle，whohadreachedthestationfromChinaintheColumbus，andheinturnwassucceededbyCommodoreT。ApCatesbyJonesintheline—of—battle—shipOhio。AtthattimeMontereywasourheadquarters，andthenavalcommanderforatimeremainedthere，butsubsequentlySanFranciscoBaybecamethechiefnavalrendezvous。
ColonelR。B。Mason，FirstDragoons，wasanofficerofgreatexperience，ofsterncharacter，deemedbysomeharshandsevere，butinallmyintercoursewithhimhewaskindandagreeable。Hehadalargefundofgoodsense，and，duringourlongperiodofservicetogether，Ienjoyedhisunlimitedconfidence。Hehadbeeninhisdayasplendidshotandhunter，andoftenentertainedmewithcharacteristicanecdotesofTaylor，Twiggs，Worth，Harvey，MartinScott，etc。，etc，whoweretheninMexico，gaininganationalfame。Californiahadsettleddowntoaconditionofabsoluterepose，andwenaturallyrepinedatourfateinbeingsoremotefromthewarinMexico，whereourcomradeswerereapinglargehonors。MasondweltinahousenotfarfromtheCustom—
House，withCaptainLanman，UnitedStatesNavy;Ihadasmalladobe—housebackofLarkin’s。HalleckandDr。Murrayhadasmalllog—housenotfaroff。Thecompanyofartillerywasstillonthehill，underthecommandofLieutenantOrd，engagedinbuildingafortwhereontomountthegunswehadbroughtoutintheLexington，andalsoinconstructingquartersoutofhewnpine—logsforthemen。LieutenantMinor，averycleveryoungofficer，hadtakenviolentlysickanddiedaboutthetimeIgotbackfromLosAngeles，leavingLieutenantsOrdandLoeseralonewiththecompany，withAssistant—SurgeonRobertMurray。CaptainWilliamG。Marcywasthequartermasterandcommissary。Naglee’scompanyofStevenson’sregimenthadbeenmountedandwassentoutagainsttheIndiansintheSanJoaquinValley，andShannon’scompanyoccupiedthebarracks。ShortlyafterGeneralKearneyhadgoneEast，wefoundanorderofhisonrecord，removingoneMr。Nash，theAlcaldeofSonoma，andappointingtohisplaceex—GovernorL。W。Boggs。A
lettercametoColonelandGovernorMasonfromBoggs，whomhehadpersonallyknowninMissouri，complainingthat，thoughhehadbeenappointedalcalde，thethenincumbent（Nash）utterlydeniedKearney’srighttoremovehim，becausehehadbeenelectedbythepeopleundertheproclamationofCommodoreSloat，andrefusedtosurrenderhisofficeortoaccountforhisactsasalcalde。SuchaproclamationhadbeenmadebyCommodoreSloatshortlyafterthefirstoccupationofCalifornia，announcingthatthepeoplewerefreeandenlightenedAmericancitizens，entitledtoalltherightsandprivilegesassuch，andamongthemtherighttoelecttheirownofficers，etc。ThepeopleofSonomatownandvalley，somefortyorfiftyimmigrantsfromtheUnitedStates，andveryfewnativeCalifornians，hadelectedMr。Nash，and，asstated，herefusedtorecognizetherightofameremilitarycommandertoejecthimandtoappointanothertohisplace。NeitherGeneralKearneynorMasonhadmuchrespectforthislandof\"buncombe，\"butassumedthetruedoctrinethatCaliforniawasyetaMexicanprovince，heldbyrightofconquest，thatthemilitarycommanderwasheldresponsibletothecountry，andthattheprovinceshouldbeheldinstatuquountilatreatyofpeace。ThisletterofBoggswasthereforereferredtoCaptainBrackett，whosecompanywasstationedatSonoma，withorderstonotifyNashthatBoggswastherightfulalcalde;thathemustquietlysurrenderhisoffice，withthebooksandrecordsthereof，andthathemustaccountforanymoneysreceivedfromthesaleoftown—lots，etc。，etc。;andintheeventofrefusalhe（CaptainBrackett）mustcompelhimbytheuseofforce。InduetimewegotBrackett’sanswer，sayingthatthelittlecommunityofSonomawasinadangerousstateofeffervescencecausedbyhisorders;thatNashwasbackedbymostoftheAmericanstherewhohadcomeacrossfromMissouriwithAmericanideas;thatashe（Brackett）wasavolunteerofficer，likelytobesoondischarged，andashedesignedtosettlethere，heaskedinconsequencetobeexcusedfromtheexecutionofthis（tohim）
unpleasantduty。Sucharequest，comingtoanoldsoldierlikeColonelMason，arousedhiswrath，andhewouldhaveproceededrough—shodagainstBrackett，who，by—the—way，wasaWestPointgraduate，andoughttohaveknownbetter;butIsuggestedtothecolonelthat，thecasebeingatestone，hehadbettersendmeuptoSonoma，andIwouldsettleitquickenough。HethengavemeanordertogotoSonomatocarryouttheinstructionsalreadygiventoBrackett。
Itookonesoldierwithme，PrivateBarnes，withfourhorses，twoofwhichwerode，andtheothertwowedroveahead。ThefirstdaywereachedGilroy’sandcampedbyastreamnearthreeorfouradobe—hotsknownasGilroy’sranch。ThenextdaywepassedMurphy’s，SanJose，andSantaClaraMission，campingsomefourmilesbeyond，whereakindofholehadbeenduginthegroundforwater。Thewholeofthisdistance，nowsobeautifullyimprovedandsettled，wasthenscarcelyoccupied，exceptbypoorranchesproducinghorsesandcattle。ThepuebloofSanJosewasastringoflowadobe—housesfestoonedwithredpeppersandgarlic;andtheMissionofSantaClarawasadilapidatedconcern，withitschurchandorchard。Thelonglineofpoplar—treesliningtheroadfromSanJosetoSantaClarabespokeaformerperiodwhenthepriestshadruledtheland。JustaboutdarkIwaslyingonthegroundnearthewell，andmysoldierBarneshadwateredourhorsesandpicketedthemtograss，whenweheardahorsecrushinghiswaythroughthehighmustard—busheswhichfilledtheplain，andsoonamancametoustoinquireifwehadseenasaddle—horsepassuptheroad。Weexplainedtohimwhatwehadheard，andhewentoffinpursuitofhishorse。Beforedarkhecamebackunsuccessful，andgavehisnameasBidwell，thesamegentlemanwhohassincebeenamemberofCongress，whoismarriedtoMissKennedy，ofWashingtonCity，andnowlivesinprincelystyleatChico，California。
Heexplainedthathewasasurveyor，andhadbeeninthelowercountryengagedinsurveyingland;thatthehorsehadescapedhimwithhissaddle—bagscontainingallhisnotesandpapers，andsomesixhundreddollarsinmoney，allthemoneyhehadearned。Hespentthenightwithusontheground，andthenextmorningwelefthimtheretocontinuethesearchforhishorse，andIafterwardheardthathehadfoundhissaddle—bagsallright，butneverrecoveredthehorse。ThenextdaytowardnightweapproachedtheMissionofSanFrancisco，andthevillageofYerbaBuena，tiredandweary——thewindasusualblowingaperfecthurricane，andamoredesolateregionitwasimpossibletoconceiveof。LeavingBarnestoworkhiswayintothetownasbesthecouldwiththetiredanimals，Itookthefreshesthorseandrodeforward。IfellinwithLieutenantFabiusStanley，UnitedStatesNavy，andwerodeintoYerbaBuenatogetheraboutanhourbeforesundown，therebeingnothingbutapathfromtheMissionintothetown，deepandheavywithdrift—sand。MyhorsecouldhardlydragonefootaftertheotherwhenwereachedtheoldHudsonBayCompany’shouse，whichwasthenthestoreofHowardandMellus。ThereIlearnedwhereCaptainFolsom，thequartermaster，wastobefound。HewasstayingwithafamilyofthenameofGrimes，whohadasmallhorsebackofHoward’sstore，whichmusthavebeennearwhereSacramentoStreetnowcrossesKearney。Folsomwasaclassmateofmine，hadcomeoutwithStevenson’sregimentasquartermaster，andwasatthetimethechief—quartermasterofthedepartment。Hisofficewasintheoldcustom—horsestandingatthenorthwestcornerofthePlaza。Hehadhiredtwowarehouses，theonlyonesthereatthetime，ofoneLiedsdorff，theprincipalmanofYerbaBuena，whoalsoownedtheonlypublic—house，ortavern，calledtheCityHotel，onKearneyStreet，atthesoutheastcornerofthePlaza。IstoppedwithFolsomatMrs。Grimes’s，andhesentmyhorse，asalsotheotherthreewhenBarneshadgotinafterdark，toacoralwherehehadalittlebarley，butnohay。Atthattimenobodyfedahorse，buthewasusuallyturnedouttopicksuchscantygrassashecouldfindontheside—hills。ThefewgovernmenthorsesusedintownwereusuallysentouttothePresidio，wherethegrasswassomewhatbetter。Atthattime（July，1847），whatisnowcalledSanFranciscowascalledYerbaBuena。Anavalofficer，LieutenantWashingtonA。Bartlett，itsfirstalcalde，hadcausedittobesurveyedandlaidoutintoblocksandlots，whichwerebeingsoldatsixteendollarsalotoffiftyvurassquare;theunderstandingbeingthatnosinglepersoncouldpurchaseofthealcaldemorethanonein—lotoffiftyvaras，andoneout—lotofahundredvaras。
Folsom，however，hadgothisclerks，orderlies，etc。，tobuylots，andthey，forasmallconsideration，conveyedthemtohim，sothathewasnominallytheownerofagoodmanylots。LieutenantHalleckhadboughtoneofeachkind，andsohadWarner。Manynavalofficershadalsoinvested，andCaptainFolsomadvisedmetobuysome，butIfeltactuallyinsultedthatheshouldthinkmesuchafoolastopaymoneyforpropertyinsuchahorridplaceasYerbaBuena，especiallyridiculinghisquarterofthecity，thencalledHappyValley。AtthatdayMontgomeryStreetwas，asnow，thebusinessstreet，extendingfromJacksontoSacramento，thewaterofthebayleavingbarelyroomforafewhousesonitseastside，andthepublicwarehouseswereonasandybeachaboutwheretheBankofCalifornianowstands，viz。，neartheintersectionofSansomeandCalifornia，Streets。AlongMontgomeryStreetwerethestoresofHoward&Mellus，FrankWard，Sherman&Ruckel，Ross&Co。，anditmaybeoneortwoothers。AroundthePlazawereafewhouses，amongthemtheCityHotelandtheCustom—House，single—storyadobeswithtiledroofs，andtheywerebyfarthemostsubstantialandbesthousesintheplace。Thepopulationwasestimatedataboutfourhundred，ofwhomKanakas（nativesoftheSandwichIslands）
formedthebulk。
AtthefootofClayStreetwasasmallwharfwhichsmallboatscouldreachathightide;buttheprincipallanding—placewaswheresomestoneshadfallenintothewater，aboutwhereBroadwaynowintersectsBatteryStreet。Onthesteepbluffabovehadbeenexcavated，bythenavy，duringtheyearbefore，abench，whereinweremountedacoupleofnavy—guns，styledthebattery，which，I
suppose，gavenametothestreet。IexplainedtoFolsomtheobjectofmyvisit，andlearnedfromhimthathehadnoboatinwhichtosendmetoSonoma，andthattheonly，chancetogettherewastoborrowaboatfromthenavy。Theline—of—battle—shipColumbuswasthenlyingatanchoroffthetown，andhesaidifIwouldgetupearlythenextmorningIcouldgoofftoherinoneofthemarket—boats。
Accordingly，Iwasupbrightandearly，downatthewharf，foundaboat，andwentofftotheColumbustoseeCommodoreBiddle。Onreachingtheshipandstatingtotheofficerofthedeckmybusiness，Iwasshownintothecommodore’scabin，andsoonmadeknowntohimmyobject。Biddlewasasmall—sizedman，butvivaciousintheextreme。Hehadaperfectcontemptforallhumbug，andatonceenteredintothebusinesswithextremealacrity。Iwassomewhatamusedattheimportanceheattachedtothestep。Hehadachaplain，andaprivatesecretary，inasmallroomlatticedofffromhiscabin，andhefirstcalledonthemtogoout，and，whenwewerealone，heenlargedonthefollyofSloat’sproclamation，givingthepeopletherighttoelecttheirownofficers，andcommendedKearneyandMasonfornippingthatideainthebud，andkeepingthepowerintheirownhands。Hethensentforthefirstlieutenant（Drayton），andinquirediftherewereamongtheofficersonboardanywhohadeverbeenintheUpperBay，andlearningthattherewasamidshipman（Whittaker）hewassentfor。Itsohappenedthatthismidshipmanhadbeenonafroliconshoreafewnightsbefore，andwasaccordinglymuchfrightenedwhensummonedintothecommodore’spresence，butassoonashewasquestionedastohisknowledgeofthebay，hewassensiblyrelieved，andprofessedtoknoweverythingaboutit。
Accordingly，thelongboatwasorderedwiththismidshipmanandeightsailors，preparedwithwaterandprovisionsforseveraldaysabsence。BiddlethenaskedmeifIknewanyofhisownofficers，andwhichoneofthemIwouldprefertoaccompanyme。Iknewmostofthem，andwesettleddownonLouisMcLane。Hewassentfor，anditwassettledthatMcLaneandIweretoconductthisimportantmission，andthecommodoreenjoinedonuscompletesecrecy，soastoinsuresuccess，andheespeciallycautionedusagainstbeingpumpedbyhisward—roomofficers，Chapman，Lewis，Wise，etc。，whileonboardhisship。WiththisinjunctionIwasdismissedtothewardroom，whereIfoundChapman，Lewis，andWise，dreadfullyexercisedatourprofoundsecrecy。ThefactthatMcLaneandIhadbeenclosetedwiththecommodoreforanhour，thatordersfortheboatandstoreshadbeenmade，thatthechaplainandclerkhadbeensentoutofthecabin，etc。，etc。，allexcitedtheircuriosity;butMcLaneandIkeptoursecretwell。Thegeneralimpressionwas，thatwehadsomeknowledgeaboutthefateofCaptainMontgomery’stwosonsandthecrewthathadbeenlosttheyearbefore。In1846
CaptainMontgomerycommandedatYerbaBuena，onboardtheSt。Marysloop—of—war，andhehadadetachmentofmenstationedupatSonoma。Occasionallyaboatwassentupwithprovisionsorintelligencetothem。Montgomeryhadtwosonsonboardhisship，oneamidshipman，theotherhissecretary。HavingoccasiontosendsomemoneyuptoSonoma，hesenthistwosonswithagoodboatandcrew。Theboatstartedwithastrongbreezeandaverylargesail，waswatchedfromthedeckuntilshewasoutofsight，andhasneverbeenheardofsince。Therewas，ofcoarse，muchspeculationastotheirfate，somecontendingthattheboatmusthavebeencapsizedinSanPabloBay，andthatallwerelost;otherscontendingthatthecrewhadmurderedtheofficersforthemoney，andthenescaped;
but，sofarasIknow，notamanofthatcrewhaseverbeenseenorheardofsince。Whenatlasttheboatwasreadyforus，westarted，leavingallhands，savethecommodore，impressedwiththebeliefthatweweregoingonsomeerrandconnectedwiththelossofthemissingboatandcrewoftheSt。Mary。Wesaileddirectlynorth，upthebayandacrossSanPablo，reachedthemonthofSonomaCreekaboutdark，andduringthenightworkedupthecreeksometwelvemilesbymeansofthetide，toalandingcalledtheEmbarcadero。Tomaintainthesecrecywhichthecommodorehadenjoinedonus，McLaneandIagreedtokeepupthedelusionbypretendingtobeonamarketingexpeditiontopickupchickens，pigs，etc。，forthemessoftheColumbus，soontodepartforhome。
Leavingthemidshipmanandfoursailorstoguardtheboat，westartedonfootwiththeotherfourforSonomaTown，whichwesoonreached。Itwasasimpleopensquare，aroundwhichweresomeadobe—houses，thatofGeneralVallejooccupyingoneside。Onanotherwasanunfinishedtwo—storyadobebuilding，occupiedasabarrackbyBracken’scompany。WesoonfoundCaptainBrackett，andItoldhimthatIintendedtotakeNashaprisonerandconveyhimbacktoMontereytoanswerforhismutinousbehavior。Igotanoldsergeantofhiscompany，whomIhadknownintheThirdArtillery，quietlytoascertainthewhereaboutsofNash，whowasabachelor，stoppingwiththefamilyofalawyernamedGreen。Thesergeantsoonreturned，sayingthatNashhadgoneovertoNapa，butwouldbebackthatevening;soMcLaneandIwentuptoafarmofsomepretensions，occupiedbyoneAndreasHoepner，withaprettySitkawife，wholivedacoupleofmilesaboveSonoma，andweboughtofhimsomechickens，pigs，etc。WethenvisitedGovernorBoggs’sfamilyandthatofGeneralVallejo，whowasthen，asnow，oneofthemostprominentandinfluentialnativesofCalifornia。AboutdarkIlearnedthatNashhadcomeback，andthen，givingBrackettorderstohaveacartreadyatthecorneroftheplaza，McLaneandIwenttothehouseofGreen。Postinganarmedsailoroneachsideofthehouse，weknockedatthedoorandwalkedin。WefoundGreen，Nash，andtwowomen，atsupper。IinquiredifNashwerein，andwasfirstanswered\"No，\"butoneofthewomensoonpointedtohim，andherose。Wewerearmedwithpistols，andthefamilywasevidentlyalarmed。Iwalkeduptohimandtookhisarm，andtoldhimtocomealongwithme。Heaskedme，\"Where？\"andIsaid，\"Monterey。\"\"Why？\"Iwouldexplainthatmoreatleisure。Greenputhimselfbetweenmeandthedoor，anddemanded，intheatricalstyle，whyIdaredarrestapeaceablecitizeninhishouse。I
simplypointedtomypistol，andtoldhimtogetoutoftheway，whichhedid。Nashaskedtogetsomeclothing，butItoldhimheshouldwantfornothing。Wepassedout，Greenfollowinguswithloudwords，whichbroughtthefoursailorstothefront—door，whenItoldhimtohushuporIwouldtakehimprisoneralso。Aboutthattimeoneofthesailors，handlinghispistolcarelessly，dischargedit，andGreendisappearedverysuddenly。WetookNashtothecart，puthimin，andproceededbacktoourboat。Thenextmorningweweregone。
Nashbeingoutoftheway，Boggsenteredonhisoffice，andtherighttoappointorremovefromcivilofficewasneveragainquestionedinCaliforniaduringthemilitaryregime。Nashwasanoldman，andwasverymuchalarmedforhispersonalsafety。HehadcomeacrossthePlains，andhadneveryetseenthesea。Whileonourwaydownthebay，IexplainedfullytohimthestateofthingsinCalifornia，andheadmittedhehadneverlookedonitinthatlightbefore，andprofessedawillingnesstosurrenderhisoffice;
but，havinggonesofar，IthoughtitbesttotakehimtoMonterey。
Onourwaydownthebaythewindwassostrong，asweapproachedtheColumbus，thatwehadtotakerefugebehindYerbaBuenaIsland，thencalledGoatIsland，wherewelanded，andIkilledagrayseal。
Thenextmorning，thewindbeingcomparativelylight，wegotoutandworkedourwayuptotheColumbus，whereIleftmyprisoneronboard，andwentonshoretofindCommodoreBiddle，whohadgonetodinewithFrankWard。Ifoundhimthere，andcommittedNashtohischarge，withtherequestthathewouldsendhimdowntoMonterey，whichhedidinthesloop—of—warDale，CaptainSelfridgecommanding。IthenreturnedtoMontereybyland，and，whentheDalearrived，ColonelMasonandIwentonboard，foundpooroldMr。
Nashhalfdeadwithsea—sicknessandfear，lestColonelMasonwouldtreathimwithextrememilitaryrigor。But，onthecontrary，thecolonelspoketohimkindly，releasedhimasaprisoneronhispromisetogobacktoSonoma。surrenderhisofficetoBoggs，andaccounttohimforhisactswhileinoffice。Heafterwardcameonshore，wasprovidedwithclothingandahorse，returnedtoSonoma，andIneverhaveseenhimsince。
MattersandthingssettleddowninUpperCalifornia，andallmovedalongwithpeaceandharmony。ThewarstillcontinuedinMexico，andthenavyauthoritiesresolvedtoemploytheirtimewiththecaptureofMazatlanandGuaymas。LowerCaliforniahadalreadybeenoccupiedbytwocompaniesofStevenson’sregiment，underLieutenant—ColonelBurton，whohadtakenpostatLaPaz，andasmallpartyofsailorswasonshoreatSanJosef，nearCapeSanLucas，detachedfromtheLexington，Lieutenant—CommanderBailey。
TheordersforthisoccupationweremadebyGeneralKearneybeforeheleft，inpursuanceofinstructionsfromtheWarDepartment，merelytosubserveapoliticalend，fortherewerefewornopeopleinLowerCalifornia，whichisamiserable，wretched，dried—uppeninsula。IremembertheproclamationmadebyBurtonandCaptainBailey，intakingpossession，whichwasintheusualfloridstyle。
Baileysignedhisnameastheseniornavalofficeratthestation，but，asitwasnecessarytoputitintoSpanishtoreachtheinhabitantsofthenewly—acquiredcountry，itwasinterpreted，\"Elmasantiguodetodoslosoficialesdelamarina，\"etc。，which，literally，is\"themostancientofallthenavalofficers，\"etc。，atranslationatwhichwemadesomefun。
TheexpeditiontoMazatlanwas，however，foradifferentpurpose，viz。，togetpossessionoftheportsofMazatlanandGuaymas，asapartofthewaragainstMexico，andnotforpermanentconquest。
CommodoreShubrickcommandedthisexpedition，andtookHalleckalongashisengineer—officer。TheycapturedMazatlanandGuaymas，andthencalledonColonelMasontosendsoldiersdowntoholdpossession，buthehadnonetospare，anditwasfoundimpossibletoraiseothervolunteerseitherinCaliforniaorOregon，andthenavyheldtheseplacesbydetachmentsofsailorsandmarinestilltheendofthewar。Burtonalsocalledforreenforcements，andNaglee’acompanywassenttohimfromMonterey，andthesethreecompaniesoccupiedLowerCaliforniaattheendoftheMexicanWar。
MajorHardiestillcommandedatSanFranciscoandabove;CompanyF，ThirdArtillery，andShannon’scompanyofvolunteers，wereatMonterey;Lippett’scompanyatSantaBarbara;ColonelStevenson，withonecompanyofhisregiment，andthecompanyoftheFirstDragoons，wasatLosAngeles;andacompanyofMormons，reenlistedoutoftheMormonBattalion，garrisonedSanDiego——andthusmatterswentalongthroughout1847into1848。IhadoccasiontomakeseveraltripstoYerbaBuenaandback，andinthespringof1848
ColonelMasonandIwentdowntoSantaBarbarainthesloop—of—warDale。
IspentmuchtimeinhuntingdeerandbearinthemountainsbackoftheCarmelMission，andducksandgeeseintheplainsoftheSalinas。Assoonasthefallrainssetin，theyoungoatswouldsproutup，andmyriadsofducks，brant，andgeese，madetheirappearance。Inasingleday，orratherintheeveningofonedayandthemorningofthenext，Icouldloadapack—mulewithgeeseandducks。Theyhadgrownsomewhatwildfromtheincreasednumberofhunters，yet，bymarkingwelltheplacewhereaflocklighted，I
could，bytakingadvantageofgulliesortheshapeoftheground，，creepupwithinrange;and，givingonebarrelontheground，andtheotherastheyrose，Ihavesecuredasmanyasnineatonedischarge。ColonelMasonononeoccasionkilledelevengeesebyonedischargeofsmallshot。TheseasonsinCaliforniaarewellmarked。AboutOctoberandNovembertherainsbegin，andthewholecountry，plainsandmountains，becomescoveredwithabright—greengrass，withendlessflowers。Theintervalsbetweentherainsgivethefinestweatherpossible。TheserainsarelessfrequentinMarch，andceasealtogetherinAprilandMay，whengraduallythegrassdiesandthewholeaspectofthingschanges，firsttoyellow，thentobrown，andbymidsummerallisburntupanddryasanashheapWhenGeneralKearneyfirstdepartedwetookhisofficeatLarkin’s;
butshortlyafterwardwehadabroadstairwayconstructedtoleadfromtheoutsidetotheupperfrontporchofthebarracks。Bycuttingalargedoorthroughtheadobe—wall，wemadetheupperroominthecentreouroffice;andanotherside—room，connectedwithitbyadoor，wasColonelMason’sprivateoffice。
Ihadasingleclerk，asoldiernamedBaden;andWilliamE。P。
Hartnell，citizen，alsohadatableinthesameroom。Hewasthegovernmentinterpreter，andhadchargeofthecivilarchives。
AfterHalleck’sreturnfromMazatlan，hewas，byColonelMason，madeSecretaryofState;andhethenhadchargeofthecivilarchives，includingtheland—titles，ofwhichFremontfirsthadpossession，butwhichhadrevertedtouswhenheleftthecountry。
Irememberoneday，inthespringof1848，thattwomen，Americans，cameintotheofficeandinquiredfortheGovernor。Iaskedtheirbusiness，andoneansweredthattheyhadjustcomedownfromCaptainSutteronspecialbusiness，andtheywantedtoseeGovernorMasoninperson。Itookthemintothecolonel，andleftthemtogether。Aftersometimethecolonelcametohisdoorandcalledtome。Iwentin，andmyattentionwasdirectedtoaseriesofpapersunfoldedonhistable，inwhichlayabouthalfanounceofplacergold。Masonsaidtome，\"Whatisthat？\"Itoucheditandexaminedoneortwoofthelargerpieces，andasked，\"Isitgold？\"
MasonaskedmeifIhadeverseennativegold。Iansweredthat，in1844，IwasinUpperGeorgia，andtheresawsomenativegold，butitwasmuchfinerthanthis，andthatitwasinphials，orintransparentquills;butIsaidthat，ifthisweregold，itcouldbeeasilytested，first，byitsmalleability，andnextbyacids。I
tookapieceinmyteeth，andthemetalliclustrewasperfect。I
thencalledtotheclerk，Baden，tobringanaxeandhatchetfromthebackyard。Whenthesewerebrought，Itookthelargestpieceandbeatitoutflat，andbeyonddoubtitwasmetal，andapuremetal。Still，weattachedlittleimportancetothefact，forgoldwasknowntoexistatSanFernando，atthesouth，andyetwasnotconsideredofmuchvalue。ColonelMasonthenhandedmealetterfromCaptainSutter，addressedtohim，statingthathe（Sutter）wasengagedinerectingasaw—millatColoma，aboutfortymilesuptheAmericanFork，abovehisfortatNewHelvetia，forthegeneralbenefitofthesettlersinthatvicinity;thathehadincurredconsiderableexpense，andwanteda\"preemption\"tothequarter—
sectionoflandonwhichthemillwaslocated，embracingthetail—raceinwhichthisparticulargoldhadbeenfound。Masoninstructedmetopreparealetter，inanswer，forhissignature。I
wroteoffaletter，recitingthatCaliforniawasyetaMexicanprovince，simplyheldbyusasaconquest;thatnolawsoftheUnitedStatesyetappliedtoit，muchlessthelandlawsorpreemptionlaws，whichcouldonlyapplyafterapublicsurvey。
ThereforeitwasimpossiblefortheGovernortopromisehim（Sutter）atitletotheland;yet，astherewerenosettlementswithinfortymiles，hewasnotlikelytobedisturbedbytrespassers。ColonelMasonsignedtheletter，handedittooneofthegentlemenwhohadbroughtthesampleofgold，andtheydeparted。ThatgoldwasthefirstdiscoveredintheSierraNevada，whichsoonrevolutionizedthewholecountry，andactuallymovedthewholecivilizedworld。Aboutthistime（MayandJune，1848），farmoreimportancewasattachedtoquicksilver。Onemine，theNewAlmaden，twelvemilessouthofSanJose，waswellknown，andwasinpossessionoftheagentofaScotchgentlemannamedForties，whoatthetimewasBritishconsulatTepic，Mexico。Mr。FortiescameupfromSanBlasinasmallbrig，whichprovedtobeaMexicanvessel;thevesselwasseized，condemned，andactuallysold，butFortieswaswealthy，andboughtherin。Histitletothequicksilver—minewas，however，neverdisputed，ashehadboughtitregularly，beforeourconquestofthecountry，fromanotherBritishsubject，alsonamedForties，aresidentofSantaClaraMission，whohadpurchaseditofthediscoverer，apriest;buttheboundariesofthelandattachedtotheminewereeventhenindispute。Othermenwereinsearchofquicksilver;andthewholerangeofmountainsneartheNewAlmadenminewasstainedwiththebrilliantredofthesnlphuretofmercury（cinnabar）。AcompanycomposedofT。O。
Larkin，J。R。Snyder，andothers，amongthemoneJohnRicord（whowasquiteacharacter），alsoclaimedavaluableminenearby。
RicordwasalawyerfromaboutBuffalo，andbysomemeanshadgottotheSandwichIslands，wherehebecameagreatfavoriteoftheking，Kamehameha;washisattorney—general，andgotintoadifficultywiththeRev。Mr。Judd，whowasakindofprime—ministertohismajesty。Oneortheotherhadtogo，andRicordleftforSanFrancisco，wherehearrivedwhileColonelMasonandIwerethereonsomebusinessconnectedwiththecustoms。RicordatoncemadeadeadsetatMasonwithflattery，andallsortsofspuriousarguments，toconvincehimthatourmilitarygovernmentwastoosimpleinitsformsforthenewstateoffacts，andthathewasthemantoremodelit。Ihadheardagooddealtohisprejudice，anddidallIcouldtopreventMasontakinghim，intohisconfidence。
WethenstartedbackforMonterey。Ricordwasalong，andnightanddayhewasharpingonhisscheme;buthedisgustedColonelMasonwithhisflattery，and，onreachingMonterey，heopenedwhathecalledalaw—office，buttherewereneithercourtsnorclients，sonecessityforcedhimtoturnhisthoughtstosomethingelse，andquicksilverbecamehishobby。Inthespringof1848anappealcametoourofficefromSanJose，whichcompelledtheGovernortogoupinperson。LieutenantLoeserandI，withacoupleofsoldiers，wentalong。AtSanJosetheGovernorheldsomekindofacourt，inwhichRicordandthealcaldehadawarmdisputeaboutacertainminewhichRicord，asamemberoftheLarkinCompany，hadopenedwithinthelimitsclaimedbytheNewAlmadenCompany。Onourwayupwehadvisitedtheground，andwerethereforebetterpreparedtounderstandthecontroversy。WehadfoundatNewAlmadenMr。
Walkinshaw，afineScotchgentleman，theresidentagentofMr。
Forbes。Hehadbuiltinthevalley，nearasmallstream，afewboard—houses，andsomefourorfivefurnacesforthedistillationofthemercury。Thesewereverysimpleintheirstructure，beingcomposedofwhalers’kettles，setinmasonry。ThesekettleswerefilledwithbrokenoreaboutthesizeofMcAdam—stone，mingledwithlime。Anotherkettle，reversed，formedthelid，andtheseamwaslutedwithclay。Onapplyingheat，themercurywasvolatilizedandcarriedintoachimney—stack，whereitcondensedandflowedbackintoareservoir，andthenwasledinpipesintoanotherkettleoutside。Afterwitnessingthisprocess，wevisitedthemineitself，whichoutcroppedneartheapexofthehill，aboutathousandfeetabovethefurnaces。Wefoundwagonshaulingthemineraldownthehillandreturningempty，andintheminesquiteanumberofSonoraminerswereblastinganddrivingforthebeautifulore（cinnabar）。Itwasthen，andisnow，amostvaluablemine。
Theaditoftheminewasattheapexofthehill，whichdroopedofftothenorth。Werodealongthishill，andsawwheremanyopeningshadbeenbegun，butthese，provingoflittleornovalue，hadbeenabandoned。Threemilesbeyond，onthewestfaceofthebill，wecametotheopeningofthe\"LarkinCompany。\"Therewasevidenceofagooddealofwork，butthemineitselfwasfilledupbywhatseemedaland—slide。ThequestioninvolvedinthelawsuitbeforethealcaldeatSanJosewas，first，whethertheminewasorwasnotonthelandbelongingtotheNewAlmadenproperty;and，next，whetherthecompanyhadcompliedwithalltheconditionsofthemitelawsofMexico，whichwereconstruedtobestillinforceinCalifornia。
Theselawsrequiredthatanyonewhodiscoveredavaluablemineonprivatelandshouldfirstfilewiththealcalde，orjudgeofthedistrict，anoticeandclaimforthebenefitsofsuchdiscovery;
thentheminewastobeopenedandfollowedforadistanceofatleastonehundredfeetwithinaspecifiedtime，andtheclaimantsmusttakeoutsamplesofthemineralanddepositthesamewiththealcalde，whowasthenrequiredtoinspectpersonallythemine，toseethatitfulfilledall。theconditionsofthelaw，beforehecouldgiveawrittentitle。Inthiscasethealcaldehadbeentothemineandhadpossessionofsamplesoftheore;but，asthemouthoftheminewasclosedup，asalleged，fromtheactofGod，byaland—slide，itwascontendedbyRicordandhisassociatesthatitwascompetenttoprovebygoodwitnessesthattheminehadbeenopenedintothehillonehundredfeet，andthat，bynonegligenceoftheirs，ithadcavedin。ItwasgenerallyunderstoodthatRobertJ。Walker，UnitedStatesSecretaryoftheTreasury，wasthenapartnerinthisminingcompany;andavessel，thebarkGrayEagle，wasreadyatSanFranciscotosailforNewYorkwiththetitle—papersonwhichtobaseajoint—stockcompanyforspeculativeuses。Ithinkthealcaldewassatisfiedthatthelawhadbeencompliedwith，thathehadgiventhenecessarypapers，and，asatthattimetherewasnothingdevelopedtoshowfraud，theGovernor（Mason）didnotinterfere。AtthatdatetherewasnopublichouseortaverninSanJosewherewecouldstop，sowestartedtowardSantaCruzandencampedabouttenmilesout，tothewestofthetown，wherewefellinwithanotherpartyofexplorers，ofwhomRuckel，ofSanFrancisco，wasthehead;andaftersupper，aswesataroundthecamp—fire，theconversationturnedonquicksilveringeneral，andtheresultofthecontestinSanJoseinparticular。
MasonwasrelatingtoRuckelthepointsandtheargumentsofRicord，thatthecompanyshouldnotsufferfromanactofGod，viz。，thecavinginofthemouthofthemine，whenamannamedCash，afellowwhohadoncebeeninthequartermaster’semployasateamster，spokeup:\"GovernorMason，didJudgeRicordsaythat？\"