\"Yes，\"saidtheGovernor;andthenCashrelatedhowheandanotherman，whosenamehegave，hadbeenemployedbyRicordtoundermineaheavyrockthatrestedabovethemouthofthemine，sothatittumbleddown，carryingwithitalargequantityofearth，andcompletelyfilleditup，aswehadseen;\"and，\"saidCash，\"ittookusthreedaysofthehardestkindofwork。\"ThiswastheactofGod，andonthepapersprocuredfromthealcaldeatthattime，I
understand，wasbuiltahugespeculation，bywhichthousandsofdollarschangedhandsintheUnitedStatesandwerelost。ThishappenedlongbeforethecelebratedMcGarrahanclaim，whichhasproducedsomuchnoise，andwhichstillisbeingprosecutedinthecourtsandinCongress。
OnthenextdaywecrossedovertheSantaCruzMountains，fromwhichwehadsublimeviewsofthescenery，firstlookingeasttowardthelowerBayofSanFrancisco，withthebrightplainsofSantaClaraandSanJose，andthentothewestupontheocean，thetownofMontereybeingvisiblesixtvmilesoff。Ifmymemoryiscorrect，webeheldfromthatmountainthefiringofasalutefrom。
thebatteryatMonterey，andcountedthenumberofgunsfromthewhitepuffsofsmoke，butcouldnothearthesound。ThatnightwesleptonpilesofwheatinamillatSoquel，nearSantaCruz，and，oursuppliesbeingshort，Iadvisedthatweshouldmakeanearlystartnextmorning，soastoreachtheranchofDonJuanAntonioVallejo，aparticularfriend，whohadalargeandvaluablecattle—ranchonthePajaroRiver，abouttwentymilesonourwaytoMonterey。Accordingly，wewereoffbythefirstlightofday，andbynineo’clockwehadreachedtheranch。Itwasonahighpointoftheplateau，overlookingtheplainofthePajaro，onwhichweregrazingnumbersofhorsesandcattle。Thehousewasofadobe，withalongrangeofadobe—hutsoccupiedbythesemi—civilizedIndians，whoatthattimedidallthelaborofaranch，theherdingandmarkingofcattle，breakingofhorses，andcultivatingthelittlepatchesofwheatandvegetableswhichconstitutedallthefarmingofthatday。Everythingaboutthehouselookeddeserted，and，seeingasmallIndianboyleaningupagainstapost，IapproachedhimandaskedhiminSpanish，\"Whereisthemaster？\"\"GonetothePresidio\"（Monterey）。\"Isanybodyinthehouse？\"\"No。\"\"Isitlockedup？\"\"Yes。\"\"Isnooneaboutwhocangetin？\"\"No。\"
\"Haveyouanymeat？\"\"No。\"\"Anyflourorgrain？\"\"No。\"\"Anychickens？\"\"No。\"\"Anyeggs？\"\"No。\"\"Whatdoyouliveon？\"
\"Nada\"（nothing）。Theutterindifferenceofthisboy，andthetoneofhisanswer\"Nada，\"attractedtheattentionofColonelMason，whohadbeenlisteningtoourconversation，andwhoknewenoughofSpanishtocatchthemeaning，andheexclaimedwithsomefeeling，\"Sowegetnadaforourbreakfast。\"Ifeltmortified，forIhadheldouttheprospectofasplendidbreakfastofmeatandtortillaswithrice，chickens，eggs，etc。，attheranchofmyfriendJoshAntonio，asajustificationfortakingtheGovernor，amanofsixtyyearsofage，morethantwentymilesatafullcanterforhisbreakfast。Buttherewasnohelpforit，andweaccordinglywentashortdistancetoapond，whereweunpackedourmulesandmadeaslimbreakfast;onsomescrapsofhardbreadandaboneofporkthatremainedinouralforjas。Thiswasnouncommonthinginthosedays，whenmanyarancherowithhiselevenleaguesofland，hishundredsofhorsesandthousandsofcattle，wouldreceiveuswithallthegrandiloquenceofaSpanishlord，andconfessthathehadnothinginhishousetoeatexceptthecarcassofabeefhungup，fromwhichthestrangermightcutandcook，withoutmoneyorprice，whatheneeded。ThatnightwesleptonSalinasPlain，andthenextmorningreachedMonterey。Allthemissionsandhousesatthatperiodwerealivewithfleas，whichthenativeslookedonaspleasanttitillators，buttheysotorturedmethatIalwaysgavethemawideberth，andsleptonasaddle—blanket，withthesaddleforapillowandtheserape，orblanket，foracover。Weneverfearedrainexceptinwinter。Asthespringandsummerof1848
advanced，thereportscamefasterandfasterfromthegold—minesatSutter’ssaw—mill。Storiesreachedusoffabulousdiscoveries，andspreadthroughouttheland。Everybodywastalkingof\"Gold！
gold！\"untilitassumedthecharacterofafever。Someofoursoldiersbegantodesert;citizenswerefittingouttrainsofwagonsandpackmulestogotothemines。Weheardofmenearningfifty，fivehundred，andthousandsofdollarsperday，andforatimeitseemedasthoughsomebodywouldreachsolidgold。SomeofthisgoldbegantocometoYerbaBuenaintrade，andtodisturbthevalueofmerchandise，particularlyofmules，horses，tinpans，andarticlesusedinmining:Iofcoursecouldnotescapetheinfection，andatlastconvincedColonelMasonthatitwasourdutytogoupandseewithourowneyes，thatwemightreportthetruthtoourGovernment。AsyetwehadnoregularmailtoanypartoftheUnitedStates，butmailshadcometousatlongintervals，aroundCapeHorn，andoneortwooverland。Iwellrememberthefirstoverlandmail。ItwasbroughtbyKitCarsoninsaddle—bagsfromTaosinNewMexico。WeheardofhisarrivalatLosAngeles，andwaitedpatientlyforhisarrivalatheadquarters。Hisfamethenwasatitsheight，fromthepublicationofFremont’sbooks，andIwasveryanxioustoseeamanwhohadachievedsuchfeatsofdaringamongthewildanimalsoftheRockyMountains，andstillwilderIndiansofthePlains。AtlasthisarrivalwasreportedatthetavernatMonterey，andIhurriedtohunthimup。Icannotexpressmysurpriseatbeholdingasmall，stoop—shoulderedman，withreddishhair，freckledface，softblueeyes，andnothingtoindicateextraordinarycourageordaring。Hespokebutlittle，andansweredquestionsinmonosyllables。Iaskedforhismail，andhepickeduphislightsaddle—bagscontainingthegreatoverlandmail，andwewalkedtogethertoheadquarters，wherehedeliveredhisparcelintoColonelMason’sownhands。HespentsomedaysinMonterey，duringwhichtimeweextractedwithdifficultysomeitemsofhispersonalhistory。HewasthenbycommissionalieutenantintheregimentofMountedRiflesservinginMexicounderColonelSumner，and，ashecouldnotreachhisregimentfromCalifornia，ColonelMasonorderedthatforatimeheshouldbeassignedtodutywithA。J。Smith’scompany，FirstDragoons，atLosAngeles。HeremainedatLosAngelessomemonths，andwasthensentbacktotheUnitedStatenwithdispatches，travelingtwothousandmilesalmostalone，inpreferencetobeingencumberedbyalargeparty。
TowardthecloseofJune，1848，thegold—feverbeingatitsheight，byColonelMason’sordersImadepreparationsforhistriptothenewly—discoveredgold—minesatSutter’sFort。Iselectedfourgoodsoldiers，withAaron，ColonelMason’sblackservant，andagoodoutfitofhorsesandpack—mules，westartedbytheusuallytraveledrouteforYerbaBuena。ThereCaptainFulsomandtwocitizensjoinedourparty。ThefirstdifficultywastocrossthebaytoSaucelito。Folsom，asquartermaster，hadasortofscowwithalargesail，withwhichtodischargethecargoesofships，thatcouldnotcomewithinamileoftheshore。Ittooknearlythewholedaytogettheoldscowuptotheonlywharfthere，andthenthewaterwassoshallowthatthescow，withitsloadofhorses，wouldnotfloatatthefirsthightide，butbyinfinitelaboronthenexttideshewasgotoffandsafelycrossedovertoSaucelito。
Wefollowedinamorecomfortableschooner。Havingsafelylandedourhorsesandmules，wepickedupandrodetoSanRafaelMission，stoppingwithDonTimoteoMurphy。Thenextday’sjourneytookustoBodega，wherelivedamannamedStephenSmith，whohadtheonlysteamsaw—millinCalifornia。HehadaPeruvianwife，andemployedanumberofabsolutelynakedIndiansinmakingadobes。Wespentadayverypleasantlywithhim，andlearnedthathehadcometoCaliforniasomeyearsbefore，atthepersonaladviceofDanielWebster，whohadinformedhimthatsoonerorlatertheUnitedStateswouldbeinpossessionofCalifornia，andthatinconsequenceitwouldbecomeagreatcountry。FromBodegawetraveledtoSonoma，bywayofPetaluma，andspentadaywithGeneralVallejo。Ihadbeentherebefore，asrelated，inthebusinessofthealcaldeNash。FromSonomawecrossedoverbywayofNapa，Suisun，andVaca’sranch，tothePuta。Intherainyseason，theplainbetweenthePutaandSacramentoRiversisimpassable，butinJulythewatersdryup;andwepassedwithouttrouble，bythetrailforSutter’sEmbarcadero。WereachedtheSacramentoRiver，thenfullofwater，withadeep，clearcurrent。
TheonlymeansofcrossingoverwasbyanIndiandugoutcanoe。Webeganbycarryingacrossourpacksandsaddles，andthenourpeople。Whenallthingswereready，thehorsesweredrivenintothewater，onebeingguidedaheadbyamaninthecanoe。Ofcourse，thehorsesandmulesatfirstrefusedtotaketothewater，anditwasnearlyaday’sworktogetthemacross，andeventhensomeofouranimalsaftercrossingescapedintothewoodsandundergrowththatlinedtheriver，butwesecuredenoughofthemtoreachSutter’sFort，threemilesbackfromtheembcarcadero，whereweencampedattheoldslough，orpond，nearthefort。Onapplication，CaptainButtersentsomeIndiansbackintothebushes，whorecoveredandbroughtinallouranimals。Atthattimetherewasnotthesignofahabitationthereorthereabouts，exceptthefort，andanoldadobe—house，eastofthefort，knownasthehospital。Thefortitselfwasoneofadobe—walls，abouttwentyfeethigh，rectangularinform，withtwo—storyblockhousesatdiagonalcorners。Theentrancewasbyalargegate，openbydayandclosedatnight，withtwoironship’sgunsnearathand。
Insidetherewasalargehouse，withagoodshingle—roof，usedasastorehouse，andallroundthewallswererangedrooms，thefortwallbeingtheouterwallofthehouse。Theinnerwallalsowasofadobe。TheseroomswereusedbyCaptainSutterhimselfandbyhispeople。Hehadablacksmith’sshop，carpenter’sshop，etc。，andotherroomswherethewomenmadeblankets。Sutterwasmonarchofallhesurveyed，andhadauthoritytoinflictpunishmentevenuntodeath，apowerhedidnotfailtouse。Hehadhorses，cattle，andsheep，andofthesehegaveliberallyandwithoutpricetoallinneed。Hecausedtobedrivenintoourcampabeefandsomesheep，whichwereslaughteredforouruse。Alreadythegoldmineswerebeginningtobefelt。Manypeoplewerethenencamped，somegoingandsomecoming，allfullofgold—stories，andeachsurpassingtheother。WefoundpreparationsinprogressforcelebratingtheFourthofJuly，thencloseathand，andweagreedtoremainovertoassistontheoccasion;ofcourse，beingthehighofficials，wewerethehonoredguests。PeoplecamefromagreatdistancetoattendthiscelebrationoftheFourthofJuly，andthetableswerelaidinthelargeroominsidethestorehouseofthefort。Amanofsomenote，namedSinclair，presided，andafterasubstantialmealandareasonablesupplyofaguardientewebeganthetoasts。AllthatIrememberisthatFolsomandIspokeforourparty;others，CaptainSutterincluded，madespeeches，andbeforethecelebrationwasoverSutterwasenthusiastic，andmanyothersshowedtheeffectsoftheaguardiente。Thenextday（namely，July5，1848）weresumedourjourneytowardthemines，and，intwenty—fivemilesofashotanddustyarideaspossible，wereachedMormonIsland。I
haveheretoforestatedthatthegoldwasfirstfoundinthetail—raceofthestew—millatColoma，fortymilesaboveSutter’sFort，orfifteenaboveMormonIsland，inthebedoftheAmericanForkoftheSacramentoRiver。ItseemsthatSutterhademployedanAmericannamedMarshall，asortofmillwright，todothisworkforhim，butMarshallafterwardclaimedthatinthematterofthesaw—milltheywerecopartners。Atallevents，MarshallandthefamilyofMr。WimmerwerelivingatColoma，wherethepine—treesaffordedthebestmaterialforlumber。Hehadunderhimfourwhitemen，Mormons，whohadbeendischargedfromCooke’sbattalion，andsomeIndians。Thesewereengagedinhewinglogs，buildingamill—dam，andputtingupasaw—mill。Marshall，asthearchitect，hadmadethe\"tub—wheel，\"andhadsetitinmotion，andhadalsofurnishedsomeoftherudepartsofmachinerynecessaryforanordinaryup—and—downsaw—mill。
Laborwasveryscarce，expensive，andhadtobeeconomized。Themillwasbuiltoveradrychanneloftheriverwhichwascalculatedtobethetail—race。Afterarranginghishead—race，damandtub—wheel，heletonthewatertotestthegoodnessofhismachinery。Itworkedverywelluntilitwasfoundthatthetail—racedidnotcarryoffthewaterfastenough，soheputhismentoworkinarudewaytoclearoutthetail—race。Theyscratchedakindofditchdownthemiddleofthedrychannel，throwingthecoarserstonestooneside;then，lettingonthewateragain，itwouldrunwithvelocitydownthechannel，washingawaythedirt，thussavinglabor。Thiscourseofactionwasrepeatedseveraltimes，actingexactlylikethelongTomafterwardresortedtobytheminers。AsMarshallhimselfwasworkinginthisditch，heobservedparticlesofyellowmetalwhichhegatheredupinhishand，whenitseemedtohavesuddenlyflashedacrosshismindthatitwasgold。Afterpickingupaboutanounce，hehurrieddowntotheforttoreporttoCaptainSutterhisdiscovery。CaptainSutterhimselfrelatedtomeMarshall’saccount，sayingthat，ashesatinhisroomatthefortonedayinFebruaryorMarch，1848，aknockwasheardathisdoor，andhecalledout，\"Comein。\"InwalkedMarshall，whowasahalf—crazymanatbest，butthenlookedstrangelywild。\"\"Whatisthematter，Marshall！\"Marshallinquiredifanyonewaswithinhearing，andbegantopeerabouttheroom，andlookunderthebed，whenSutter，fearingthatsomecalamityhadbefallenthepartyupatthesaw—mill，andthatMarshallwasreallycrazy，begantomakehiswaytothedoor，demandingofMarshalltoexplainwhatwasthematter。Atlastherevealedhisdiscovery，andlaidbeforeCaptainSutterthepelliclesofgoldhehadpickedupintheditch。Atfirst，Sutterattachedlittleornoimportancetothediscovery，andtoldMarshalltogobacktothemill，andsaynothingofwhathehadseentoMr。Wimmer，oranyoneelse。Yet，asitmightaddvaluetothelocation，hedispatchedtoourheadquartersatMonterey，asI
havealreadyrelated，thetwomenwithawrittenapplicationforapreemptiontothequarter—sectionoflandatColoma。Marshallreturnedtothemill，butcouldnotkeepoutofhiswonderfulditch，andbysomemeanstheothermenemployedtherelearnedhissecret。Theythenwantedtogatherthegold，andMarshallthreatenedtoshootthemiftheyattemptedit;butthesemenhadsenseenoughtoknowthatif\"placer\"—goldexistedatColoma，itwouldalsobefoundfartherdown—stream，andtheygradually\"prospected\"untiltheyreachedMormonIsland，fifteenmilesbelow，wheretheydiscoveredoneoftherichestplacersonearth。ThesemenrevealedthefacttosomeotherMormonswhowereemployedbyCaptainSutteratagrist—millhewasbuildingstilllowerdowntheAmericanFork，andsixmilesabovehisfort。Allofthemstruckforhigherwages，towhichSutteryielded，untiltheyaskedtendollarsaday，whichherefused，andthetwomillsonwhichhehadspentsomuchmoneywereneverbuilt，andfellintodecay。
Inmyopinion，whentheMormonsweredrivenfromNauvoo，Illinois，in1844，theycastaboutforalandwheretheywouldnotbedisturbedagain，andfixedonCalifornia。Intheyear1845aship，theBrooklyn，sailedfromNewYorkforCalifornia，withacolonyofMormons，ofwhichSamBrannanwastheleader，andwefoundthemthereonourarrivalinJannary，1847。WhenGeneralKearney，atFortLeavenworth，wascollectingvolunteersearlyin1846，fortheMexicanWar，he，throughtheinstrumentalityofCaptainJamesAllen，brothertoourquartermaster，GeneralRobertAllen，raisedthebattalionofMormonsatKanesville，Iowa，nowCouncilBluffs，ontheexpressunderstandingthatitwouldfacilitatetheirmigrationtoCalifornia。ButwhentheMormonsreachedSaltLake，in1846，theylearnedthattheyhadbeenforestalledbytheUnitedStatesforcesinCalifornia，andtheythendeterminedtosettledownwheretheywere。Therefore，whenthisbattalionoffivecompaniesofMormons（raisedbyAllen，whodiedontheway，andwassucceededbyCooke）wasdischargedatLosAngeles，California，intheearlysummerof1847，mostofthemenwenttotheirpeopleatSaltLake，withallthemoneyreceived，aspayfromtheUnitedStates，investedincattleandbreeding—horses;onecompanyreenlistedforanotheryear，andtheremaindersoughtworkinthecountry。AssoonasthefameofthegolddiscoveryspreadthroughCalifornia，theMormonsnaturallyturnedtoMormonIsland，sothatinJuly，1848，wefoundaboutthreehundredofthemthereatwork。
SamBrannanwasonhandasthehigh—priest，collectingthetithes。
Clark，ofClark’sPoint，anearlypioneer，wastherealso，andnearlyalltheMormonswhohadcomeoutintheBrooklyn，orwhohadstaidinCaliforniaafterthedischargeoftheirbattalion，hadcollectedthere。Irecallthesceneasperfectlyto—dayasthoughitwereyesterday。Inthemidstofabrokencountry，allparchedanddriedbythehotsunofJuly，sparselywoodedwithlive—oaksandstragglingpines，laythevalleyoftheAmericanRiver，withitsboldmountain—streamcomingoutoftheSnowyMountainstotheeast。Inthisvalleyisafiat，orgravel—bed，whichinhighwaterisanisland，orisoverflown，butatthetimeofourvisitwassimplyalevelgravel—bedoftheriver。Onitsedgesmenweredigging，andfillingbucketswiththefinerearthandgravel，whichwascarriedtoamachinemadelikeababy’scradle，openatthefoot，andattheheadaplateofsheet—ironorzinc，puncturedfullofholes。Onthismetallicplatewasemptiedtheearth，andwaterwasthenpouredonitfrombuckets，whileonemanshookthecradlewithviolentrockingbyahandle。Onthebottomwerenailedcleatsofwood。Withthisrudemachinefourmencouldearnfromfortytoonehundreddollarsaday，averagingsixteendollars，oragoldounce，permanperday。Whilethe’sunblazeddownontheheadsoftheminerswithtropicalheat，thewaterwasbittercold，andallhandswereeitherstandinginthewaterorhadtheirclotheswetallthetime;yettherewerenocomplaintsofrheumatismorcold。
Wemadeourcamponasmallknoll，alittlebelowtheisland，andfromitcouldoverlookthebusyscene。Afewbush—hutsnearbyservedasstores，boardinghouses，andforsleeping;butallhandssleptontheground，withpine—leavesandblanketsforbedding。AssoonasthenewsspreadthattheGovernorwasthere，personscametoseeus，andvolunteeredallkindsofinformation，illustratingitbysamplesofthegold，whichwasofauniformkind，\"scale—
gold，\"brightandbeautiful。Alargevariety，ofeveryconceivableshapeandform，wasfoundinthesmallergulchesroundabout，butthegoldintheriver—bedwasuniformly\"scale—gold。\"IrememberthatMr。Clarkwasincamp，talkingtoColonelMasonaboutmattersandthingsgenerally，whenheinquired，\"Governor，whatbusinesshasSamBrannantocollectthetitheshere？\"ClarkadmittedthatBrannanwastheheadoftheMormonchurchinCalifornia，andhewassimplyquestioningastoBrannan’sright，ashigh—priest，tocompeltheMormonstopayhimtheregulartithes。ColonelMasonanswered，\"Brannanhasaperfectrighttocollectthetax，ifyouMormonsarefoolsenoughtopayit。\"\"Then，\"saidClark，\"Iforonewon’tpayitanylonger。\"ColonelMasonadded:\"Thisispublicland，andthegoldisthepropertyoftheUnitedStates;allofyouherearetrespassers，but，astheGovernmentisbenefitedbyyourgettingoutthegold，Idonotintendtointerfere。\"Iunderstood，afterward，thatfromthattimethepaymentofthetithesceased，butBrannanhadalreadycollectedenoughmoneywherewithtohireSutter’shospital，andtoopenastorethere，inwhichhemademoremoneythananymerchantinCalifornia，duringthatsummerandfall。
Theunderstandingwas，thatthemoneycollectedbyhimastitheswasthefoundationofhisfortune，whichisstillverylargeinSanFrancisco。Thateveningweallmingledfreelywiththeminers，andwitnessedtheprocessofcleaningupand\"panning\"out，whichisthelastprocessforseparatingthepuregoldfromthefinedirtandblacksand。
ThenextdaywecontinuedourjourneyupthevalleyoftheAmericanFork，stoppingatvariouscamps，whereminingwasinprogress;andaboutnoonwereachedColoma，theplacewheregoldhadbeenfirstdiscovered。Thehillswerehigher，andthetimberofbetterquality。Theriverwasnarrowerandbolder，andbutfewminerswereatworkthere，byreasonofMarshall’sandSutter’sclaimtothesite。Therestoodthesawmillunfinished，thedamandtail—racejustastheywereleftwhentheMormonsceasedwork。
MarshallandWimmer’sfamilyofwifeandhalfadozenchildrenwerethere，guardingtheirsupposedtreasure;livinginahousemadeofclapboards。Herealsowewereshownmanyspecimensofgold，ofacoarsergrainthanthatfoundatMormonIsland。ThenextdaywecrossedtheAmericanRivertoitsnorthside，andvisitedmanysmallcampsofmen，inwhatwerecalledthe\"drydiggings。\"Littlepoolsofwaterstoodinthebedsofthestreams，andthesewereusedtowashthedirt;andtherethegoldwasineveryconceivableshapeandsize，someofthespecimensweighingseveralounces。
Someofthese\"diggings\"wereextremelyrich，butasawholetheyweremoreprecariousinresultsthanattheriver。Sometimesaluckyfellowwouldhitona\"pocket，\"andcollectseveralthousanddollarsinafewdays，andthenagainhewouldbeshiftingaboutfromplacetoplace，\"prospecting，\"andspendingallhehadmade。
Littlestoreswerebeingopenedateverypoint，whereflour，bacon，etc。，weresold;everythingbeingadollarapound，andamealusuallycostingthreedollars。Nobodypaidforabed，forhesleptontheground，withoutfearofcoldorrain。Wespentnearlyaweekinthatregion，andwerequitebewilderedbythefabuloustalesofrecentdiscoveries，whichatthetimewereconfinedtotheseveralforksoftheAmericanandYubaRivers。’Allthistimeourhorseshadnothingtoeatbutthesparsegrassinthatregion，andwewereforcedtoworkourwaydowntowardtheSacramentoValley，ortoseeouranimalsperish。StillwecontemplatedavisittotheYubaandFeatherRivers，fromwhichwehadheardofmorewonderful\"diggings;\"butmetacourier，whoannouncedthearrivalofashipatMonterey，withdispatchesofgreatimportancefromMazatlan。WeaccordinglyturnedourhorsesbacktoSutter’sFort。CrossingtheSacramentoagainbyswimmingourhorses，andferryingtheirloadsinthatsolitarycanoe，wetookourbacktrackasfarastheNapa，andthenturnedtoBenicia，onCarquinezStraits。Wefoundthereasolitaryadobe—house，occupiedbyMr。Hastingsandhisfamily，embracingDr。Semple，theproprietoroftheferry。Thisferrywasaship’s—boat，withalatteen—sail，whichcouldcarryacrossatonetidesixoreighthorses。
Ittookusseveraldaystocrossover，andduringthattinewegotwellacquaintedwiththedoctor，whowasquiteacharacter。HehadcometoCaliforniafromIllinois，andwasbrothertoSenatorSemple。Hewasaboutsevenfeethigh，andveryintelligent。WhenwefirstreachedMonterey，hehadaprinting—press，whichbelongedtotheUnitedStates，havingbeencapturedatthecustom—house，andhadbeenusedtoprintcustom—houseblanks。WiththisDr。Semple，aseditor，publishedtheCalifornian，asmallsheetofnews，onceaweek;anditwasacuriosityinitsline，usingtwov’sforaw，andothercombinationsofletters，madenecessarybywantoftype。
AftersometimeheremovedtoYerbaBuenawithhispaper，anditgrewuptobetheAltaCaliforniaoftoday。Foreseeing，ashethought，thegrowthofagreatcitysomewhereontheBayofSanFrancisco，heselectedCarquinezStraitsasitslocation，andobtainedfromGeneralVallejoatitletoaleagueofland，onconditionofbuildingupacitythereontobearthenameofVallejo’swife。ThiswasFranciscaBenicia;accordingly，thenewcitywasnamed\"Francisca。\"Atthistime，thetownnearthemouthofthebaywasknownuniversallyasYerbaBuena;butthatnamewasnotknownabroad，althoughSanFranciscowasfamiliartothewholecivilizedworld。Now，someofthechiefmenofYerbaBuena，Folsom，Howard，Leidesdorf，andothers，knowingtheimportanceofaname，sawtheirdanger，and，bysomeactionoftheayuntamiento，ortowncouncil，changedthenameofYerbaBuenato\"SanFrancisco。\"
Dr。SemplewasoutragedattheirchangingthenametoonesolikehisofFrancisca，andheinturnchangedhistowntotheothernameofMrs。Vallejo，viz。，\"Benicia;\"andBeniciaithasremainedtothisday。Iamconvincedthatthislittlecircumstancewasbigwithconsequences。ThatBeniciahasthebestnaturalsiteforacommercialcity，Iam，satisfied;andhadhalfthemoneyandhalfthelaborsincebestoweduponSanFranciscobeenexpendedatBenicia，weshouldhaveatthisdayacityofpalacesontheCarquinezStraits。Thenameof\"SanFrancisco，\"however，fixedthecitywhereitnowis;foreveryshipin1848—’49，whichclearedfromanypartoftheworld，knewthenameofSanFrancisco，butnotYerbaBuenaorBenicia;and，accordingly，shipsconsignedtoCaliforniacamepouringinwiththeircontents，andwereanchoredinfrontofYerbaBuena，thefirsttown。Captainsandcrewsdesertedforthegold—mines，andnowhalfthecityinfrontofMontgomeryStreetisbuiltoverthehulksthusabandoned。ButDr。
Semple，atthattime，wasalltherewasofBenicia;hewascaptainandcrewofhisferryboat，andmanagedtopassourpartytothesouthsideofCarquinezStraitsinabouttwodays。
ThenceweproceededupAmadorValleytoAlamedaCreek，andsoontotheoldmissionofSanJose;thencetothepuebloofSanJose，whereFolsomandthosebelonginginYerbaBuenawentinthatdirection，andwecontinuedontoMonterey，ourpartyallthewaygivingofficialsanctiontothenewsfromthegold—mines，andaddingnewforcetothe\"fever。\"
OnreachingMonterey，wefounddispatchesfromCommodoreShubrick，atMazatlan，whichgavealmostpositiveassurancethatthewarwithMexicowasover;thathostilitieshadceased，andcommissionerswerearrangingthetermsofpeaceatGuadalupeHidalgo。ItwaswellthatthisnewsreachedCaliforniaatthatcriticaltime;forsocontagioushadbecomethe\"gold—fever\"thateverybodywasboundtogoandtryhisfortune，andthevolunteerregimentofStevenson’swouldhavedesertedenmasse，hadthemennotbeenassuredthattheywouldverysoonbeentitledtoanhonorabledischarge。
Manyofourregularsdiddesert，amongthemtheverymenwhohadescortedusfaithfullytotheminesandback。Ourservantsalsoleftus，andnothinglessthanthreehundreddollarsamonthwouldhireamaninCalifornia;ColonelMason’sblackboy，Aaron，aloneofallourthenservantsprovingfaithful。Wewereforcedtoresorttoallmannerofshiftstolive。First，wehadamesswithablackfellowwecalledBustamenteascook;buthegotthefever，andhadtogo。Wenexttookasoldier，buthedeserted，andcarriedoffmydouble—barreledshot—gun，whichIprizedveryhighly。Tomeetthisconditionoffacts，ColonelMasonorderedthatliberalfurloughsshouldbegiventothesoldiers，andpromisestoallinturn，andheallowedalltheofficerstodrawtheirrationsinkind。Astheactualvalveoftherationwasverylarge，thisenabledustolive。Halleck，Murray，Ord，andI，boardedwithDohaAugustias，andturnedinourrationsaspayforourboard。
SometimeinSeptember，1848，theofficialnewsofthetreatyofpeacereachedus，andtheMexicanWarwasover。ThistreatywassignedinMay，andcametousallthewaybylandbyacourierfromLowerCalifornia，sentfromLaPazbyLieutenant—ColonelBurton。
Onitsreceipt，orderswereatoncemadeforthemuster—outofallofStevenson’sregiment，andourmilitaryforceswerethusreducedtothesinglecompanyofdragoonsatLosAngeles，andtheonecompanyofartilleryatMonterey。Nearlyallbusinesshadceased，exceptthatconnectedwithgold;and，duringthatfall，ColonelMason，CaptainWarner，andI，madeanothertripuptoSutter’sFort，goingalsotothenewly—discoveredminesontheStanislaus，called\"Sonora，\"namedfromtheminersofSonora，Mexico，whohadfirstdiscoveredthem。WefoundthereprettymuchthesamestateoffactsasbeforeexistedatMormonIslandandColoma，andwedailyreceivedintelligenceoftheopeningofstillotherminesnorthandsouth。
ButIhavepassedoveraveryinterestingfact。Assoonaswehadreturnedfromourfirstvisittothegold—mines，itbecameimportanttosendhomepositiveknowledgeofthisvaluablediscovery。ThemeansofcommunicationwiththeUnitedStateswereveryprecarious，andIsuggestedtoColonelMasonthataspecialcourieroughttobesent;thatSecond—LieutenantLoeserhadbeenpromotedtofirst—lieutenant，andwasentitledtogohome。Hewasaccordinglydetailedtocarrythenews。Ipreparedwithgreatcarethelettertotheadjutant—generalofAugust17，1848，whichColonelMasonmodifiedinafewParticulars;and，asitwasimportanttosendnotonlythespecimenswhichhadbeenpresentedtousalongourrouteoftravel，IadvisedthecoloneltoallowCaptainFolsomtopurchaseandsendtoWashingtonalargesampleofthecommercialgoldingeneraluse，andtopayforthesameoutofthemoneyinhishandsknownasthe\"civilfund，\"arisingfromdutiescollectedattheseveralportsinCalifornia。Heconsentedtothis，andCaptainFolsomboughtanoyster—canfullattendollarstheounce，whichwastherateofvalueatwhichitwasthenreceivedatthecustomhouse。FolsomwasinstructedfurthertocontractwithsomevesseltocarrythemessengertoSouthAmerica，wherehecouldtaketheEnglishsteamersasfareastasJamaica，withaconditionalchartergivingincreasedpaymentifthevesselcouldcatchtheOctobersteamer。FolsomcharteredthebarkLaLambayecana，ownedandnavigatedbyHenryD。Cooke，whohassincebeentheGovernoroftheDistrictofColumbia。InduetimethisvesselreachedMonterey，andLieutenantLoeser，withhisreportandspecimensofgold，embarkedandsailed。HereachedtheSouthAmericanContinentatPayta，Peru，intime;tooktheEnglishsteamerofOctobertoPanama，andthencewentontoKingston，Jamaica，wherehefoundasailingvesselboundforNewOrleans。OnreachingNewOrleans，hetelegraphedtotheWarDepartmenthisarrival;butsomanydelayshadoccurredthathedidnotreachWashingtonintimetohavethematterembracedinthePresident’sregularmessageof1848，aswehadcalculated。Still，thePresidentmadeitthesubjectofaspecialmessage，andthusbecame\"official\"whathadbeforeonlyreachedtheworld。inaveryindefiniteshape。Thenbeganthatwonderfuldevelopment，andthegreatemigrationtoCalifornia，bylandandbysea，of1849and1850。
Asbeforenarrated，Mason，Warner，andI，madeasecondvisittotheminesinSeptemberandOctober，1848。Asthewinterseasonapproached，ColonelMasonreturnedtoMonterey，andIremainedforatimeatSutter’sFort。Inordertosharesomewhatintherichesoftheland，weformedapartnershipinastoreatColoma，inchargeofNormanS。Bestor，whohadbeenWarner’sclerk。Wesuppliedthenecessarymoney，fifteenhundreddollars（fivehundreddollarseach），andBestorcarriedonthestoreatColomaforhisshare。Outofthisinvestment，eachofusrealizedaprofitofaboutfifteenhundreddollars。Warneralsogotaregularleaveofabsence，andcontractedwithCaptainSutterforsurveyingandlocatingthetownofSacramento。Hereceivedforthissixteendollarsperdayforhisservicesassurveyor;andSutterpaidallthehandsengagedinthework。Thetownwaslaidoffmostlyupaboutthefort，butafewstreetswerestakedoffalongtheriverbank，andoneortwoleadingtoit。CaptainSutteralwayscontended，however，thatnotowncouldpossiblyexistontheimmediatebankoftheriver，becausethespringfreshetsroseoverthebank，andfrequentlyitwasnecessarytoswimahorsetoreachtheboat—landing。Nevertheless，fromtheverybeginningthetownbegantobebuiltontheveryriver—bank，viz。，First，Second，andThirdStreets，withJandKStreetsleadingback。Amongtheprincipalmerchantsandtradersofthatwinter，atSacramento，wereSamBrannanandHensley，Reading&Co。Forseveralyearsthesitewasannuallyflooded;butthepeoplehaveperseveredinbuildingthelevees，andafterwardinraisingallthestreets，sothatSacramentoisnowafinecity，thecapitaloftheState，andstandswhere，in1848，wasnothingbutadensemassofbushes，vines，andsubmergedland。Theoldforthasdisappearedaltogether。
Duringthefallof1848，Warner，Ord，andI，campedonthebankoftheAmericanRiver，abreastofthefort，atwhatwasknownasthe\"OldTan—Yard。\"Iwascook，Ordcleanedupthedishes，andWarnerlookedafterthehorses;butOrdwasdeposedasscullionbecausehewouldonlywipethetinplateswithatuftofgrass，accordingtothecustomofthecountry，whereasWarnerinsistedonhavingthemwashedaftereachmealwithhotwater。Warnerwasinconsequencepromotedtoscullion，andOrdbecamethehostler。WedrewourrationsinkindfromthecommissaryatSanFrancisco，whosentthemuptousbyaboat;andwewerethusenabledtodispenseageneroushospitalitytomanyapoordevilwhootherwisewouldhavehadnothingtoeat。
Thewinterof1848’49wasaperiodofintenseactivitythroughoutCalifornia。Therainyseasonwasunfavorabletotheoperationsofgold—mining，andwasveryharduponthethousandsofhouselessmenandwomenwhodweltinthemountains，andeveninthetowns。Mostofthenativesandoldinhabitantshadreturnedtotheirranchesandhouses;yettherewerenotroofsenoughinthecountrytoshelterthethousandswhohadarrivedbyseaandbyland。Thenewshadgoneforthtothewholecivilizedworldthatgoldinfabulousquantitieswastobehadforthemeredigging，andadventurerscamepouringinblindlytoseektheirfortunes，withoutathoughtofhouseorfood。YerbaBuenahadbeenconvertedintoSanFrancisco。
SacramentoCityhadbeenlaidout，lotswerebeingrapidlysold，andthetownwasbeingbuiltupasanentrepottothemines。
Stocktonalsohadbeenchosenasaconvenientpointfortradingwiththelowerorsouthernmines。CaptainSutterwasthesoleproprietoroftheformer，andCaptainCharlesWeberwastheownerofthesiteofStockton，whichwasasyetknownas\"FrenchCamp。\"
CHAPTERIII。
EARLYRECOLLECTIONSOFCALIFORNIA——（CONTINUED）。
1849—1850。
ThedepartmentheadquartersstillremainedatMonterey，but，withthefewsoldiers，wehadnexttonothingtodo。InmidwinterweheardoftheapproachofabattalionoftheSecondDragoons，underMajorLawrencePikeGraham，withCaptainsRucker，Coutts，Campbell，andothers，along。SoexhaustedweretheybytheirlongmarchfromUpperMexicothatwehadtosendrelieftomeetthemastheyapproached。WhenthiscommandreachedLosAngeles，itwasleftthereasthegarrison，andCaptainA。J。Smith’scompanyoftheFirstDragoonswasbroughtuptoSanFrancisco。WewerealsoadvisedthattheSecondInfantry，ColonelB。Riley，wouldbesentoutaroundCapeHorninsailing—ships;thattheMountedRifles，underLieutenant—ColonelLoring，wouldmarchoverlandtoOregon;
andthatBrigadier—GeneralPersiferF。SmithwouldcomeoutinchiefcommandonthePacificcoast。ItwasalsoknownthatacontracthadbeenenteredintowithpartiesinNewYorkandNewOrleansforamonthlylineofsteamersfromthosecitiestoCalifornia，viaPanama。Lieutenant—ColonelBurtonhadcomeupfromLowerCalifornia，and，ascaptainoftheThirdArtillery，hewasassignedtocommandCompanyF，ThirdArtillery，atMonterey。
CaptainWarnerremainedatSacramento，surveying;andHalleck，Murray，Ord，andI，boardedwithDonaAugustias。Theseasonwasunusuallyrainyandsevere，butwepassedthetimewiththeusualroundofdancesandparties。Thetimefixedforthearrivalofthemail—steamerwasunderstoodtobeaboutJanuary1，1849，butthedaycameandwentwithoutanytidingsofher。OrdersweregiventoCaptainBurtontoannounceherarrivalbyfiringanationalsalute，andeachmorningwelistenedforthegunsfromthefort。