stations。IreachedPittsburglateinJune，andfoundtheorderrelievingmefromrecruitingservice，anddetailingmyclassmateH。
B。Fieldtomyplace。IwasassignedtoCompanyF，thenunderordersforCalifornia。ByprivatelettersfromLieutenantOrd，I
heardthatthecompanyhadalreadystartedfromFortMcHenryforGovernor’sIsland，NewYorkHarbor，totakepassageforCaliforniainanavaltransport。Iworkedallthatnight，madeupmyaccountscurrent，andturnedoverthebalanceofcashtothecitizenphysician，Dr。McDowell;andalsoclosedmyclothingandpropertyreturns，leavingblankreceiptswiththesamegentlemanforField’ssignature，whenheshouldgetthere，tobeforwardedtotheDepartmentatWashington，andtheduplicatestome。TheseIdidnotreceiveformorethanayear。IrememberthatIgotmyordersabout8p。m。onenight，andtookpassageintheboatforBrownsville，thenextmorningtraveledbystagefromBrownsvilletoCumberland，Maryland，andthencebycarstoBaltimore，Philadelphia，andNewYork，inagreathurrylesttheshipmightsailwithoutme。IfoundCompanyFatGovernor’sIsland，CaptainC。Q。Tompkinsincommand，LieutenantE。O。C。Ordseniorfirst—lieutenant，myselfjuniorfirst—lieutenant，LucienLoeserandCharlesMinorthesecond—lieutenants。
Thecompanyhadbeenfilleduptoonehundredprivates，twelvenon—commissionedofficers，andoneordnancesergeant（Layton），makingonehundredandthirteenenlistedmenandfiveofficers。
Dr。JamesL。Ordhadbeenemployedasactingassistantsurgeontoaccompanytheexpedition，andLieutenantH。W。Halleck，oftheengineers，wasalsotogoalong。TheUnitedStatesstore—shipLexingtonwasthenpreparingattheNavy—Yard，Brooklyn，tocarryusaroundCapeHorntoCalifornia。Shewasreceivingonboardthenecessarystoresforthelongvoyage，andforserviceafterourarrivalthere。Lieutenant—CommanderTheodorusBaileywasincommandofthevessel，LieutenantWilliamH。Macombexecutiveofficer，andPassed—MidshipmenMuse，Spotts，andJ。W。A。
Nicholson，werethewatch—officers;Wilsonpurser，andAbernethysurgeon。Thelatterwascatererofthemess，andweallmadeanadvanceofcashforhimtolayinthenecessarymess—stores。Toenableustoprepareforsolongavoyageandforanindefinitesojourninthatfar—offcountry，theWarDepartmenthadauthorizedustodrawsixmonths’payinadvance，whichsumofmoneyweinvestedinsurplusclothingandsuchotherthingsasseemedtousnecessary。Atlasttheshipwasready，andwastoweddownabreastofFortColumbus，wherewewereconveyedonboard，andonthe14thofJuly，1846，weweretowedtoseabyasteam—tug，andcastoff:
ColonelR。B。Mason，stillsuperintendentofthegeneralrecruitingservice，accompaniedusdownthebayandouttosea，returningwiththetug。Afewotherfriendswereoftheparty，butatlasttheyleftus，andwewerealoneuponthesea，andthesailorswerebusywiththesailsandropes。TheLexingtonwasanoldship，changedfromasloop—of—wartoastore—ship，withanaftercabin，a\"ward—room，\"and\"between—decks。\"InthecabinwereCaptainsBaileyandTompkins，withwhommessedthepurser，Wilson。Intheward—roomwerealltheotherofficers，twoineachstate—room;andMinor，beinganextralieutenant，hadtosleepinahammockslungintheward—room。OrdandIroomedtogether;HalleckandLoeserandtheotherswerescatteredabout。Themenwerearrangedinbunks\"between—decks，\"onesetalongthesidesoftheship，andanother，doubletier，amidships。Thecrewwereslunginhammockswellforward。Ofthesetherewereaboutfifty。Weatoncesubdividedthecompanyintofoursquads，underthefourlieutenantsofthecompany，andarrangedwiththenavalofficersthatourmenshouldserveondeckbysquads，afterthemanneroftheirwatches;
thatthesailorsshoulddoalltheworkaloft，andthesoldiersondeck。
Onfairdayswedrilledourmenatthemanual，andgenerallykeptthememployedasmuchaspossible，givinggreatattentiontothepoliceandcleanlinessoftheirdressandbunks;andsosuccessfulwereweinthis，that，thoughthevoyagelastednearlytwohundreddays，everymanwasabletoleavetheshipandmarchupthehilltothefortatMonterey，California，carryinghisownknapsackandequipments。
ThevoyagefromNewYorktoRioJaneirowaswithoutaccidentoranythingtovarytheusualmonotony。Wesoonsettleddowntothehumdrumofalongvoyage，readingsome，notmuch;playinggames，butnevergambling;andchieflyengagedineatingourmealsregularly。IncrossingtheequatorwehadtheusualvisitofNeptuneandhiswife，who，withalargerazorandabucketofsoapsuds，cameoverthesidesandshavedsomeofthegreenhorns;
butnavaletiquetteexemptedtheofficers，andNeptunewasnotpermittedtocomeaftofthemizzen—mast。Atlast，aftersixtydaysofabsolutemonotony，theislandofRaza，offRioJaneiro，wasdescried，andweslowlyenteredtheharbor，passingafortonourrighthand，fromwhichcameahail，inthePortugueselanguage，fromahugespeaking—trumpet，andourofficerofthedeckansweredbackingibberish，accordingtoawell—understoodcustomoftheplace。Sugar—loafMountain，onthesouthoftheentrance，isveryremarkableandwellnamed;isalmostconical，withaslightlean。
Theman—of—waranchorageisaboutfivemilesinsidetheheads，directlyinfrontofthecityofRioJaneiro。Wordswillnotdescribethebeautyofthisperfectharbor，northedelightfulfeelingafteralongvoyageofitsfragrantairs，andtheentirecontrastbetweenallthingsthereandwhatwehadleftinNewYork。
WefoundtheUnitedStatenfrigateColumbiaanchoredthere，andaftertheLexingtonwasproperlymoored，nearlyalltheofficerswentonshoreforsight—seeingandenjoyment。WelandedatawharfoppositewhichwasafamousFrenchrestaurant，Farroux，andafterorderingsupperweallproceededtotheRuadaOuvador，wheremostoftheshopswere，especiallythoseformakingfeatherflowers，asmuchtoseetheprettygirlsastheflowerswhichtheysoskillfullymade;thencewewenttothetheatre，where，besidessomeopera，wewitnessedtheaudienceandsawtheEmperorDomPedro，andhisEmpress，thedaughteroftheKingofSicily。Afterthetheatre，wewentbacktotherestaurant，wherewehadanexcellentsupper，withfruitsofeveryvarietyandexcellence，suchaswehadneverseenbefore，orevenknewthenamesof。Supperbeingover，wecalledforthebill，anditwasrenderedinFrench，withBraziliancurrency。Itfootedupsometwenty—sixthousandreis。
Thefiguresalarmedus，soweallputonthewaiters’platevariouscoinsingold，whichhetooktothecounterandreturnedthechange，makingthetotalaboutsixteendollars。Themillreisisaboutadollar，butbeingapaper—moneywasatadiscount，soasonlytobeworthaboutfifty—sixcentsincoin。
TheLexingtonremainedinRioaboutaweek，duringwhichwevisitedthePalace，afewmilesinthecountry，alsotheBotanicGardens，aplaceofinfiniteinterest，withitsspecimensoftropicalfruits，spices;etc。，etc。，andindeedeveryplaceofnote。ThethingI
bestrecallisavisitHalleckandImadetotheCorcovado，ahighmountainwhencethewaterisconveyedforthesupplyofthecity。
Westartedtotakeawalk，andpassedalongtheaqueduct，whichapproachesthecitybyaaeriesofarches;thenceupthepointofthehilltoaplaceknownastheMadre，orfountain，towhichallthewaterthatdripsfromtheleavesisconductedbytilegutters，andiscarriedtothecitybyanopenstoneaqueduct。
HerewefoundMr。HenryA。Wise，ofVirginia，theUnitedStatesministertoBrazil，andaDr。Garnett，UnitedStatesNavy，hisintendedson—in—law。Wehadaveryinterestingconversation，inwhichMr。WiseenlargedonthefactthatRiowassuppliedfromthe\"dewsofheaven，\"forinthedryseasonthewatercomesfromthemistsandfogswhichhangaroundtheCorcovado，dripsfromtheleavesofthetrees，andisconductedtotheMadrefountainbymilesoftilegutters。HalleckandIcontinuedourascentofthemountain，catchingfrompointsofthewaymagnificentviewsofthesceneryroundaboutRioJaneiro。Wereachednearthesummitwhatwascalledtheemperor’scoffee—plantation，wherewesawcoffee—berriesintheirvariousstages，andthescaffoldsonwhichtheberriesweredriedbeforebeingcleaned。Thecoffee—treeremindedmeoftheredhaw—treeofOhio，andtheberriesweresomewhatlikethoseofthesametree，twograinsofcoffeebeinginclosedinoneberry。Theseweredriedandcleanedofthehuskbyhandorbymachinery。Ashort，steepascentfromthisplacecarriedustothesummit，fromwhichisbeheldoneofthemostpicturesqueviewsonearth。TheOrganMountainstothewestandnorth，theoceantotheeast，thecityofRiowithitsred—tiledhousesatourfeet，andtheentireharborlikeamapspreadout，withinnumerablebrightvalleys，makeupalandscapethatcannotbedescribedbymerewords。Thisspotisuniversallyvisitedbystrangers，andhasoftenbeendescribed。Afterenjoyingitimmeasurably，wereturnedtothecitybyanotherroute，tiredbutamplyrepaidbyourlongwalk。
Induetimeallhadbeendonethatwasrequisite，andtheLexingtonputtoseaandresumedhervoyage。InOctoberweapproachedCapeHorn，thefirstlanddescriedwasStatenIsland，whitewithsnow，andtheshipseemedtobeaimingforthechanneltoitswest，straitsofLeMaire，buthercoursewaschangedandwepassedaroundtotheeast。IntimewesawCapeHorn;anislandroundedlikeanoven，afterwhichittakesitsname（Ornos）oven。Hereweexperiencedveryroughweather，buffetingaboutunderstormstay—sails，andspendingnearlyamonthbeforethewindfavoredourpassageandenabledthecourseoftheshiptobechangedforValparaiso。OnedaywesailedparallelwithaFrenchsloop—of—war，anditwassublimetowatchthetwoshipsrisingandfallinginthoselongdeepswellsoftheocean。AllthetimewewerefollowedbytheusuallargeflocksofCape—pigeonsandalbatrossesofeverycolor。Theformerresembledthecommonbarn—pigeonexactly，butareinfactgullsofbeautifulandvariedcolors，mostlydove—color。Wecaughtmanywithfishing—linesbaitedwithpork。
Wealsotookinthesamewaymanyalbatrosses。Thewhiteonesareverylarge，andtheirdownisequaltothatoftheswan。AtlastCapeHornanditsswellingseaswereleftbehind，andwereachedValparaisoinaboutsixtydaysfromRio。Weanchoredintheopenroadstead，andspentthereabouttendays，visitingalltheusualplacesofinterest，itsforetop，main—top，mizzen—top，etc。
HalleckandOrdwentuptoSantiago，thecapitalofChili，somesixtymilesinland，butIdidnotgo。Valparaisodidnotimpressmefavorablyatall。Seenfromthesea，itlookedlikealongstringofhousesalongthenarrowbeach，surmountedwithredbanksofearth，withlittleverdure，andnotreesatall。Northwardthespacewidenedoutsomewhat，andgaveroomforaplaza，butthemassofhousesinthatquarterwerepoor。WewerethereinNovember，correspondingtoourearlyspring，andweenjoyedthelargestrawberrieswhichabounded。TheIndependencefrigate，CommodoreShubrick，cameinwhilewewerethere，havingovertakenus，boundalsoforCalifornia。Wemettherealsothesloop—of—warlevant，fromCalifornia，andfromtheofficersheardofmanyoftheeventsthathadtranspiredaboutthetimethenavy，underCommodoreSloat，hadtakenpossessionofthecountry。
AllthenecessarysuppliesbeingrenewedinValparaiso，thevoyagewasresumed。Fornearlyfortydayswehaduninterruptedfavorablewinds，beinginthe\"trades，\"and，havingsettleddowntosailorhabits，timepassedwithoutnotice。WehadbroughtwithusallthebookswecouldfindinNewYorkaboutCalifornia，andhadreadthemoverandoveragain:Wilkes’s\"ExploringExpedition;\"Dana’s\"TwoYearsbeforetheMast;\"andForbes’s\"AccountoftheMissions。\"ItwasgenerallyunderstoodwewereboundforMonterey，thenthecapitalofUpperCalifornia。Weknew，ofcourse，thatGeneralKearneywasenrouteforthesamecountryoverland;thatFremontwastherewithhisexploringparty;thatthenavyhadalreadytakenpossession，andthataregimentofvolunteers，Stevensons，wastofollowusfromNewYork;butneverthelesswewereimpatienttoreachourdestination。AboutthemiddleofJanuarytheshipbegantoapproachtheCaliforniacoast，ofwhichthecaptainwasdulycautious，becausetheEnglishandSpanishchartsdifferedsomefifteenmilesinthelongitude，andonallthechartsacurrentoftwomilesanhourwasindicatednorthwardalongthecoast。Atlastlandwasmadeonemorning，andhereoccurredoneofthoseaccidentssoprovokingafteralongandtediousvoyage。Macomb，themasterandregularnavigator，hadmadethecorrectobservations，butNicholsonduringthenight，byanobservationonthenorthstar，puttheshipsometwentymilesfarthersouththanwasthecasebytheregularreckoning，sothatCaptainBaileygavedirectionstoalterthecourseoftheshipmoretothenorth，andtofollowthecoastup，andtokeepagoodlookoutforPointPinosthatmarksthelocationofMontereyBay。Theusualnorthwindslackened，sothatwhennoonallowedMacombtogetagoodobservation，itwasfoundthatwewerenorthofAnoNuevo，thenorthernheadlandofMontereyBay。Theshipwasputabout，butlittlebylittlearoseoneofthosesoutheaststormssocommononthecoastinwinter，andwebuffetedaboutforseveraldays，cursingthatunfortunateobservationonthenorthstar，for，onfirstsightingthecoast，hadweturnedforMonterey，insteadofawaytothenorth，wewouldhavebeensnuglyanchoredbeforethestorm。Butthesoutheasterabated，andtheusualnorthwestwindcameoutagain，andwesailedsteadilydownintotheroadsteadofMontereyBay。Thisisshapedsomewhatlikeafishhook，thebarbbeingtheharbor，thepointbeingPointPinos，thesouthernheadland。Slowlythelandcameoutofthewater，thehighmountainsaboutSantaCruz，thelowbeachoftheSaunas，andthestrongly—markedridgeterminatingintheseainapointofdarkpine—trees。Thenthelineofwhitewashedhousesofadobe，backedbythegrovesofdarkoaks，resemblingoldapple—trees;andthenwesawtwovesselsanchoredclosetothetown。Onewasasmallmerchant—brigandanotheralargeshipapparentlydismasted。Atlastwesawaboatcomingouttomeetus，andwhenitcamealongside，weweresurprisedtofindLieutenantHenryWise，masteroftheIndependencefrigate，thatwehadleftatValparaiso。Wisehadcomeofftopilotustoouranchorage。Whilegivingorderstothemanatthewheel，he，inhispeculiarfluentstyle，toldtous，gatheredabouthim，thattheIndependencehadsailedfromValparaisoaweekafterusandhadbeeninMontereyaweek;thattheCalifornianshadbrokenoutintoaninsurrection;
thatthenavalfleetunderCommodoreStocktonwasalldownthecoastaboutSanDiego;thatGeneralKearneyhadreachedthecountry，buthadhadaseverebattleatSanPascual，andhadbeenworsted，losingseveralofficersandmen，himselfandotherswounded;thatwarwasthengoingonatLosAngeles;thatthewholecountrywasfullofguerrillas，andthatrecentlyatYerbaBuenathealcalde，LieutenantBartlett，UnitedStatesNavy，whileoutaftercattle，hadbeenlassoed，etc。，etc。Indeed，intheshortspaceoftimethatWisewaspilotingourshipin，hetoldusmorenewsthanwecouldhavelearnedonshoreinaweek，and，beingunfamiliarwiththegreatdistances，weimaginedthatweshouldhavetodebarkandbeginfightingatonce。Swordswerebroughtout，gunsoiledandmadeready，andeverythingwasinabustlewhentheoldLexingtondroppedheranchoronJanuary26，1847，inMontereyBay，afteravoyageofonehundredandninety—eightdaysfromNewYork。Everythingonshorelookedbrightandbeautiful，thehillscoveredwithgrassandflowers，thelive—oakssosereneandhomelike，andthelowadobehouses，withred—tiledroofsandwhitenedwalls，contrastedwellwiththedarkpine—treesbehind，makingadecidedlygoodimpressionuponuswhohadcomesofartospyouttheland。NothingcouldbemorepeacefulinitslooksthanMontereyinJanuary，1847。WehadalreadymadetheacquaintanceofCommodoreShubrickandtheofficersoftheIndependenceinValparaiso，sothatweagainmetasoldfriends。Immediatepreparationsweremadeforlanding，and，asIwasquartermasterandcommissary，Ihadplentytodo。Therewasasmallwharfandanadobecustom—houseinpossessionofthenavy;alsoabarrackoftwostories，occupiedbysomemarines，commandedbyLieutenantMaddox;
andonahilltothewestofthetownhadbeenbuiltatwo—storyblock—houseofhewedlogsoccupiedbyaguardofsailorsundercommandofLieutenantBaldwin，UnitedStatesNavy。NotasinglemodernwagonorcartwastobehadinMonterey，nothingbuttheoldMexicancartwithwoodenwheels，drawnbytwoorthreepairsofoxen，yokedbythehorns。AmannamedTomColehadtwoormoreofthese，andhecameintoimmediaterequisition。TheUnitedStatesconsul，andmostprominentmanthereatthetime，wasThomasO。
Larkin，whohadastoreandaprettygoodtwo—storyhouseoccupiedbyhisfamily。Itwassoondeterminedthatourcompanywastolandandencamponthehillattheblock—house，andwewerealsotohavepossessionofthewarehouse，orcustom—house，forstorage。Thecompanywaslandedonthewharf，andweallmarchedinfulldresswithknapsacksandarms，tothehillandrelievedtheguardunderLieutenantBaldwin。Tentsandcamp—equipagewerehauledup，andsoonthecampwasestablished。Iremainedinaroomatthecustomhouse，whereIcouldsuperintendthelandingofthestoresandtheirproperdistribution。IhadbroughtoutfromNowYorktwentythousanddollarscommissaryfunds，andeightthousanddollarsquartermasterfunds，andastheshipcontainedaboutsixmonths’supplyofprovisions，alsoasaw—mill，grist—mill，andalmosteverythingneeded，weweresoonestablishedcomfortably。
WefoundthepeopleofMontereyamixedsetofAmericans，nativeMexicans，andIndians，aboutonethousandalltold。Theywerekindandpleasant，andseemedtohavenothingtodo，exceptsuchasownedranchesinthecountryfortherearingofhorsesandcattle。
Horsescouldbeboughtatanypricefromfourdollarsuptosixteen，butnohorsewasevervaluedaboveadoubloonorMexicanounce（sixteendollars）。Cattlecosteightdollarsfiftycentsforthebest，andthismadebeefnetabouttwocentsapound，butatthattimenobodyboughtbeefbythepound，butbythecarcass。
Gameofallkinds——elk，deer，wildgeese，andducks——wasabundant;
butcoffee，sugar，andsmallstores，wererareandcostly。
Thereweresomehalf—dozenshopsorstores，buttheirshelveswereempty。Thepeoplewereveryfondofriding，dancing，andofshowsofanykind。Theyoungfellowstookgreatdelightinshowingofftheirhorsemanship，andwoulddashalong，pickingupahalf—dollarfromtheground，stoptheirhorsesinfullcareerandturnaboutonthespaceofabullock’shide，andtheirskillwiththelassowascertainlywonderful。Atfullspeedtheycouldcasttheirlassoaboutthehornsofabull，orsothrowitastocatchanyparticularfoot。Thesefellowswouldworkalldayonhorsebackindrivingcattleorcatchingwildhorsesforamerenothing，butallthemoneyofferedwouldnothavehiredoneofthemtowalkamile。
Thegirlswereveryfondofdancing，andtheydiddancegracefullyandwell。EverySunday，regularly，wehadabaile，ordance，andsometimesinterspersedthroughtheweek。
Irememberverywell，soonafterourarrival，thatwewereallinvitedtowitnessaplaycalled\"AdamandEve。\"EvewaspersonatedbyaprettyyounggirlknownasDoloresGomez，who，however，wasdressedveryunlikeEve，forshewascoveredwithapetticoatandspangles。Adamwaspersonatedbyherbrother——thesamewhohassincebecomesomewhatfamousasthepersononwhomisfoundedtheMcGarrahanclaim。GodAlmightywaspersonated，andheaven’soccupantsseemedveryhuman。Yettheplaywaspretty，interesting，andeliciteduniversalapplause。AllthemonthofFebruarywewerebydaypreparingforourlongstayinthecountry，andatnightmakingthemostoftheballsandpartiesofthemostprimitivekind，pickingupasmatteringofSpanish，andextendingouracquaintancewiththepeopleandthecostumbreadelpais。I
canwellrecallthatOrdandI，impatienttolookinland，gotpermissionandstartedfortheMissionofSanJuanBautista。
Mountedonhorses，andwithourcarbines，wetooktheroadbyElToro，quiteaprominenthill，aroundwhichpassestheroadtothesouth，followingtheSaunasorMontereyRiver。Afterabouttwentymilesoverasandycountrycoveredwithoak—bushesandscrub，weenteredquiteaprettyvalleyinwhichtherewasaranchatthefootoftheToro。Restingthereawhileandgettingsomeinformation，weagainstartedinthedirectionofamountaintothenorthoftheSaunas，calledtheGavillano。ItwasquitedarkwhenwereachedtheSaunasRiver，whichweattemptedtopassatseveralpoints，butfounditfullofwater，andthequicksandswerebad。
Hearingthebarkofadog，wechangedourcourseinthatdirection，and，onhailing，wereansweredbyvoiceswhichdirecteduswheretocross。Ourknowledgeofthelanguagewaslimited，butwemanagedtounderstand，andtofounderthroughthesandandwater，andreachedasmalladobe—horseonthebanksoftheSalinas，wherewespentthenight:Thehousewasasingleroom，withoutfloororglass;onlyarudedoor，andwindowwithbars。Notaparticleoffoodbutmeat，yetthemanandwomanentertaineduswiththelanguageoflordsputthemselves，theirhouse，andeverything，atour\"disposition，\"andmadelittlebarefootchildrendanceforourentertainment。Wemadeoursupperofbeef，andsleptonabullock’shideonthedirt—floor。InthemorningwecrossedtheSalinasPlain，aboutfifteenmilesoflevelground，takingashotoccasionallyatwild—geese，whichaboundedthere，andenteringthewell—woodedvalleythatcomesoutfromthefootoftheGavillano。
Wehadcruisedaboutallday，anditwasalmostdarkwhenwereachedthehouseofaSenorGomez，fatherofthosewhoatMontereyhadperformedthepartsofAdamandEve。Hishousewasatwo—storyadobe，andhadafenceinfront。Itwassituatedwellupamongthefoot—hillsoftheGavillano，andcouldnotbeseenuntilwithinafewyards。WehitchedourhorsestothefenceandwentinjustasGomezwasabouttositdowntoatemptingsupperofstewedhareandtortillas。Wewereofficersandcaballerosandcouldnotbeignored。Afterturningourhorsestograss，athisinvitationwejoinedhimatsupper。Theallowance，thoughampleforone，wasrathershortforthree，andIthoughttheSpanishgrandiloquentpolitenessofGomez，whowasfatandold，wasnotover—cordial。
However，downwesat，andIwashelpedtoadishofrabbit，withwhatIthoughttobeanabundantsauceoftomato。Takingagoodmouthful，IfeltasthoughIhadtakenliquidfire;thetomatowaschilecolorado，orredpepper，ofthepurestkind。Itnearlykilledme，andIsawGomez’seyestwinkle，forhesawthathisshareofsupperwasincreased。——Icontentedmyselfwithbitsofthemeat，andanabundantsupplyoftortillas。Ordwasbettercase—hardened，andstooditbetter。WestaidatGomez’sthatnight，sleeping，asalldid，ontheground，andthenextmorningwecrossedthehillbythebridle—pathtotheoldMissionofSanJuanBautista。TheMissionwasinabeautifulvalley，verylevel，andboundedonallaidesbyhills。Theplainwascoveredwithwild—grassesandmustard，andhadabundantwater。Cattleandhorseswereseeninalldirections，anditwasmanifestthatthepriestswhofirstoccupiedthecountryweregoodjudgesofland。
ItwasSunday，andallthepeople，about，ahundred，hadcometochurchfromthecountryroundabout。OrdwassomewhatofaCatholic，andenteredthechurchwithhisclankingsparsandkneeleddown，attractingtheattentionofall，forhehadontheuniformofanAmericanofficer。Assoonaschurchwasout，allrushedtothevarioussports。Isawthepriest，withhisgrayrobestuckedup，playingatbilliards，otherswerecockfighting，andsomeathorse—racing。Myhorsehadbecomelame，andIresolvedtobuyanother。AssoonasitwasknownthatIwantedahorse，severalcameforme，anddisplayedtheirhorsesbydashingpastandhaulingthemupshort。Therewasafineblackstallionthatattractedmynotice，and，aftertryinghimmyself，Iconcludedapurchase。Ileftwiththesellermyownlamehorse，whichhewastobringtomeatMonterey，whenIwastopayhimtendollarsfortheother。TheMissionofSanJuanborethemarksofhighprosperityataformerperiod，andhadagoodpear—orchardjustundertheplateauwherestoodthechurch。Afterspendingtheday，OrdandIreturnedtoMonterey，aboutthirty—fivemiles，byashorterroute，ThuspassedthemonthofFebruary，and，thoughtherewerenomailsorregularexpresses，weheardoccasionallyfromYerbaBuenaandSutter’sForttothenorth，andfromthearmyandnavyaboutLosAngelesatthesouth。WealsoknewthataquarrelhadgrownupatLosAngeles，betweenGeneralKearney，ColonelFremont，andCommodoreStockton，astotherighttocontrolaffairsinCalifornia。Kearneyhadwithhimonlythefragmentsofthetwocompaniesofdragoons，whichhadcomeacrossfromNewMexicowithhim，andhadbeenhandledveryroughlybyDonAndreasPico，atSanPascual，inwhichengagementCaptainsMooreandJohnson，andLieutenantHammond，werekilled，andKearneyhimselfwounded。
ThereremainedwithhimColonelSwords，quartermaster;CaptainH。
S。Turner，FirstDragoons;CaptainsEmoryandWarner，TopographicalEngineers;AssistantSurgeonGriffin，andLieutenantJ。W。
Davidson。Fremonthadmarcheddownfromthenorthwithabattalionofvolunteers;CommodoreStocktonhadmarchedupfromSanDiegotoLosAngeles，withGeneralKearney，hisdragoons，andabattalionofsailorsandmarines，andwassoonjoinedtherebyFremont，andtheyjointlyreceivedthesurrenderoftheinsurgentsunderAndreasPico。WealsoknewthatGeneralR。B。MasonhadbeenorderedtoCalifornia;thatColonelJohnD。StevensonwascomingouttoCaliforniawitharegimentofNewYorkVolunteers;thatCommodoreShubrickhadordersalsofromtheNavyDepartmenttocontrolmattersafloat;thatGeneralKearney，byvirtueofhisrank，hadtherighttocontrolalltheland—forcesintheserviceoftheUnitedStates;andthatFremontclaimedthesamerightbyvirtueofaletterhehadreceivedfromColonelBenton，thenaSenator，andamanofgreatinfluencewithPolk’sAdministration。Sothatamongtheyoungerofficersthequerywasverynatural，\"WhothedevilisGovernorofCalifornia？\"OnedayIwasonboardtheIndependencefrigate，diningwiththeward—roomofficers，whenawar—vesselwasreportedintheoffing，whichinduetimewasmadeouttobetheCyane，CaptainDuPont。Afterdinner，wewereallondeck，towatchthenewarrival，theshipsmeanwhileexchangingsignals，whichwereinterpretedthatGeneralKearneywasonboard。AstheCyaneapproached，aboatwassenttomeether，withCommodoreShubrick’sflag—officer，LieutenantLewis，tocarrytheusualmessages，andtoinviteGeneralKearneytocomeonboardtheIndependenceastheguestofCommodoreShubrick。Quiteanumberofofficerswereondeck，amongthemLieutenantsWise，MontgomeryLewis，WilliamChapman，andothers，notedwitsandwagsofthenavy。InduetimetheCyaneanchoredcloseby，andourboatwasseenreturningwithastrangerinthestern—sheets，clothedinarmyblue。Astheboatcamenearer，wesawthatitwasGeneralKearneywithanolddragooncoaton，andanarmy—cap，towhichthegeneralhadaddedthebroadvizor，cutfromafull—dresshat，toshadehisfaceandeyesagainsttheglaringsunoftheGilaregion。Chapmanexclaimed:
\"Fellows，theproblemissolved;thereisthegrand—vizier（visor）
byG—d！HeisGovernorofCalifornia。\"
Allhandsreceivedthegeneralwithgreatheartiness，andhesoonpassedoutofoursightintothecommodore’scabin。BetweenCommodoreShubrickandGeneralKearneyexistedfromthattimeforwardthegreatestharmonyandgoodfeeling，andnofurthertroubleexistedastothecontrollingpoweronthePacificcoast。
GeneralKearneyhaddispatchedfromSanDiegohisquartermaster，ColonelSwords，totheSandwichIslands，topurchaseclothingandstoresforhismen，andhadcomeuptoMonterey，bringingwithhimTurnerandWarner，leavingEmoryandthecompanyofdragoonsbelow。
Hewasdelightedtofindafullstrongcompanyofartillery，subjecttohisorders，wellsuppliedwithclothingandmoneyinallrespects，and，muchtothedisgustofourCaptainTompkins，hetookhalfofhiscompanyclothingandpartofthemoneyheldbymeforthereliefofhisworn—outandalmostnakeddragoonsleftbehindatLosAngeles。Inafewdayshemovedonshore，tookuphisquartersatLarkin’shouse，andestablishedhisheadquarters，withCaptainTurnerashisadjutantgeneral。OnedayTurnerandWarnerwereatmytent，and，seeingastore—bagfullofsocks，drawers，andcalicoshirts，ofwhichIhadlaidinathreeyears’supply，andofwhichtheyhadnone，madeknowntometheirwants，andItoldthemtohelpthemselves，whichTurnerandWarnerdid。Thelatter，however，insistedonpayingmethecost，andfromthatdatetothisTurnerandIhavebeenclosefriends。Warner，poorfellow，wasafterwardkilledbyIndians。Thingsgraduallycameintoshape，asemi—
monthlycourierlinewasestablishedfromYerbaBuenatoSanDiego，andwewerethusenabledtokeeppacewitheventsthroughoutthecountry。InMarchStevenson’sregimentarrived。ColonelMasonalsoarrivedbyseafromCallaointhestore—shipErie，andP。St。
GeorgeCooke’sbattalionofMormonsreachedSanLuisRey。A。J。
SmithandGeorgeStonemanwerewithhim，andwereassignedtothecompanyofdragoonsatLosAngeles。AllthesetroopsandthenavyregardedGeneralKearneyastherightfulcommander，thoughFremontstillremainedatLosAngeles，stylinghimselfasGovernor，issuingordersandholdinghisbattalionofCaliforniaVolunteersinapparentdefianceofGeneralKearney。ColonelMasonandMajorTurnerweresentdownbyseawithapaymaster，withmuster—rollsandorderstomusterthisbattalionintotheserviceoftheUnitedStates，topayandthentomusterthemout;butontheirreachingLosAngelesFremontwouldnotconsenttoit，andthecontroversybecamesoangrythatachallengewasbelievedtohavepassedbetweenMasonandFremont，buttheduelnevercameabout。Turnerrodeupbylandinfourorfivedays，andFremont，becomingalarmed，followedhim，aswesupposed，toovertakehim，buthedidnotsucceed。OnFremont’sarrivalatMonterey，hecampedinatentaboutamileoutoftownandcalledonGeneralKearney，anditwasreportedthatthelatterthreatenedhimveryseverelyandorderedhimbacktoLosAngelesimmediately，todisbandhisvolunteers，andtoceasetheexerciseofauthorityofanykindinthecountry。
FeelinganaturalcuriositytoseeFremont，whowasthenquitefamousbyreasonofhisrecentexplorationsandthestillmorerecentconflictswithKearneyandMason，Irodeouttohiscamp，andfoundhiminaconicaltentwithoneCaptainOwens，whowasamountaineer，trapper，etc。，butoriginallyfromZanesville，Ohio。
IspentanhourorsowithFremontinhistent，tooksometeawithhim，andleft，withoutbeingmuchimpressedwithhim。InduetimeColonelSwordsreturnedfromtheSandwichIslandsandrelievedmeasquartermaster。CaptainWilliamG。Marcy，sonoftheSecretaryofWar，hadalsocomeoutinoneofStevenson’sshipsasanassistantcommissaryofsubsistence，andwasstationedatMontereyandrelievedmeascommissary，sothatIrevertedtotheconditionofacompany—officer。WhileactingasastaffofficerIhadlivedatthecustom—houseinMonterey，butwhenrelievedItookatentinlinewiththeothercompany—officersonthehill，wherewehadamess。
Stevenson’aregimentreachedSanFranciscoBayearlyinMarch，1847。ThreecompanieswerestationedatthePresidiounderMajorJamesA。Hardieronecompany（Brackett’s）atSonoma;three，underColonelStevenson，atMonterey;andthree，underLieutenant—ColonelBurton，atSantaBarbara。OnedayIwasdownattheheadquartersatLarkin’shorse，whenGeneralKearneyremarkedtomethathewasgoingdowntoLosAngelesintheshipLexington，andwantedmetogoalongashisaide。Ofcoursethiswasmostagreeabletome。
TwoofStevenson’scompanies，withtheheadquartersandthecolonel，weretogoalso。Theyembarked，andearlyinMaywesailedforSanPedro。Beforeembarking，theUnitedStatesline—of—battle—shipColumbushadreachedthecoastfromChinawithCommodoreBiddle，whoserankgavehimthesupremecommandofthenavyonthecoast。Hewasbusyincallingin——\"lassooing\"——fromtheland—servicethevariousnavalofficerswhounderStocktonhadbeendoingallsortsofmilitaryandcivilserviceonshore。
KnowingthatIwastogodownthecoastwithGeneralKearney，hesentformeandhandedmetwounsealedparcelsaddressedtoLieutenantWilson，UnitedStatesNavy，andMajorGillespie，UnitedStatesMarines，atLosAngeles。Thesewerewrittenordersprettymuchinthesewords:\"OnreceiptofthisorderyouwillrepairatonceonboardtheUnitedStatesshipLexingtonatSanPedro，andonreachingMontereyyouwillreporttotheundersigned。—JAMES
BIDDLE。\"Ofcourse，Iexecutedmyparttotheletter，andtheseofficerswereduly\"lassooed。\"Wesaileddownthecoastwithafairwind，andanchoredinsidethekelp，abreastofJohnson’shouse。MessageswereforthwithdispatcheduptoLosAngeles，twentymilesoff，andpreparationsforhorsesmadeforustorideup。Welanded，and，asKearneyheldtomyarminascendingthesteeppathupthebluff，heremarkedtohimself，ratherthantome，thatitwasstrangethatFremontdidnotwanttoreturnnorthbytheLexingtononaccountofsea—sickness，butpreferredtogobylandoverfivehundredmiles。TheyoungerofficershadbeendiscussingwhatthegeneralwoulddowithFremont，whowassupposedtobeinastateofmutiny。Some，thoughthewouldbetriedandshot，somethathewouldbecarriedbackinirons;andallagreedthatifanyoneelsethanFremonthadputonsuchairs，andhadactedashehaddone，Kearneywouldhaveshownhimnomercy，forhewasregardedasthestrictestsortofadisciplinarian。WehadapleasantrideacrosstheplainwhichliesbetweentheseashoreandLosAngeles，whichwereachedinaboutthreehours，theinfantryfollowingonfoot。WefoundColonelP。St。GeorgeCookelivingatthehouseofaMr。Pryor，andthecompanyofdragoons，withA。J。
Smith，Davidson，Stoneman，andDr。Griffin，quarteredinanadobe—housecloseby。Fremontheldhiscourtintheonlytwo—storyframe—houseintheplace。AftersometimespentatPryor’shouse，GeneralKearneyorderedmetocallonFremonttonotifyhimofhisarrival，andthathedesiredtoseehim。Iwalkedroundtothehousewhichhadbeenpointedouttomeashis，inquiredofamanatthedoorifthecolonelwasin，wasanswered\"Yea，\"andwasconductedtoalargeroomonthesecondfloor，whereverysoonFremontcamein，andIdeliveredmymessage。AsIwasonthepointofleaving，heinquiredwhereIwasgoingto，andIansweredthatI
wasgoingbacktoPryor’shouse，wherethegeneralwas，whenheremarkedthatifIwouldwaitamomenthewouldgoalong。OfcourseIwaited，andhesoonjoinedme，dressedmuchasaCalifornian，withthepeculiarhigh，broad—brimmedhat，withafancycord，andwewalkedtogetherbacktoPryor’s，whereIlefthimwithGeneralKearney。WespentseveraldaysverypleasantlyatLosAngeles，then，asnow，thechiefpuebloofthesouth，famousforitsgrapes，fruits，andwines。Therewasahillclosetothetown，fromwhichwehadaperfectviewoftheplace。Thesurroundingcountryislevel，utterlydevoidoftrees，exceptthewillowsandcotton—woodsthatlinetheLosAngelesCreekandtheacequias，orditches，whichleadfromit。Thespaceofgroundcultivatedinvineyardsseemedaboutfivemilesbyone，embracingthetown。Everyhousehaditsinclosureofvineyard，whichresembledaminiatureorchard，thevinesbeingveryold，rangedinrows，trimmedveryclose，withirrigatingditchessoarrangedthatastreamofwatercouldbedivertedbetweeneachrowofvines。TheLosAngelesandSanGabrielRiversarefedbymeltingsnowsfromarangeofmountainstotheeast，andthequantityofcultivatedlanddependsupontheamountofwater。Thisdidnotseemtobeverylarge;buttheSanGabrielRiver，closeby，wasrepresentedtocontainalargervolumeofwater，affordingthemeansofgreatlyenlargingthespaceforcultivation。Theclimatewassomoderatethatoranges，figs，pomegranates，etc……weregenerallytobefoundineveryyardorinclosure。