第23章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"A TRAMP ABROAD",免费读到尾

  orwhatdaysthegalleriesareopen,andwhetherapermitisrequired,andwhereyouaretogetit,andwhatyoumustpayforit;orwhenthetheatersopenandclose,whattheplaysaretobe,andthepriceofseats;

  orwhatisthenewestthinginhats;orhowthebillsofmortalityaverage;or\"whostruckBillyPatterson。\"

  Itdoesnotmatterwhatyouaskhim:inninecasesoutoftenheknows,andinthetenthcasehewillfindoutforyoubeforeyoucanturnaroundthreetimes。

  Thereisnothinghewillnotputhishandto。SupposeyoutellhimyouwishtogofromHamburgtoPekingbythewayofJericho,andareignorantofroutesandprices——

  thenextmorninghewillhandyouapieceofpaperwiththewholethingworkedoutonittothelastdetail。

  BeforeyouhavebeenlongonEuropeansoil,youfindyourselfstillSAYINGyouarerelyingonProvidence,butwhenyoucometolookcloseryouwillseethatinrealityyouarerelyingontheportier。Hediscoverswhatispuzzlingyou,orwhatistroublingyou,orwhatyourneedis,beforeyoucangetthehalfofitout,andhepromptlysays,\"Leavethattome。\"Consequently,youeasilydriftintothehabitofleavingeverythingtohim。ThereisacertainembarrassmentaboutapplyingtotheaverageAmericanhotelclerk,acertainhesitancy,asenseofinsecurityagainstrebuff;butyoufeelnoembarrassmentinyourintercoursewiththeportier;hereceivesyourpropositionswithanenthusiasmwhichcheers,andplungesintotheiraccomplishmentwithanalacritywhichalmostinebriates。

  Themorerequirementsyoucanpileuponhim,thebetterhelikesit。Ofcoursetheresultisthatyouceasefromdoinganythingforyourself。Hecallsahackwhenyouwantone;

  putsyouintoit;tellsthedriverwhithertotakeyou;

  receivesyoulikealong-lostchildwhenyoureturn;

  sendsyouaboutyourbusiness,doesallthequarrelingwiththehackmanhimself,andpayshimhismoneyoutofhisownpocket。Hesendsforyourtheatertickets,andpaysforthem;hesendsforanypossiblearticleyoucanrequire,beitadoctor,anelephant,orapostagestamp;andwhenyouleave,atlast,youwillfindasubordinateseatedwiththecab-driverwhowillputyouinyourrailwaycompartment,buyyourtickets,haveyourbaggageweighed,bringyoutheprintedtags,andtellyoueverythingisinyourbillandpaidfor。

  Athomeyougetsuchelaborate,excellent,andwillingserviceasthisonlyinthebesthotelsofourlargecities;

  butinEuropeyougetitinthemerebackcountry-townsjustaswell。

  Whatisthesecretoftheportier\'sdevotion?Itisverysimple:hegetsFEES,ANDNOSALARY。Hisfeeisprettycloselyregulated,too。Ifyoustayaweek,yougivehimfivemarks——adollarandaquarter,orabouteighteencentsaday。Ifyoustayamonth,youreducethisaveragesomewhat。Ifyoustaytwoorthreemonthsorlonger,youcutitdownhalf,orevenmorethanhalf。

  Ifyoustayonlyoneday,yougivetheportieramark。

  Theheadwaiter\'sfeeisashadelessthantheportier\'s;

  theBoots,whonotonlyblacksyourbootsandbrushesyourclothes,butisusuallytheporterandhandlesyourbaggage,getsasomewhatsmallerfeethantheheadwaiter;

  thechambermaid\'sfeeranksbelowthatoftheBoots。

  Youfeeonlythesefour,andnooneelse。AGermangentlemantoldmethatwhenheremainedaweekinahotel,hegavetheportierfivemarks,theheadwaiterfour,theBootsthree,andthechambermaidtwo;andifhestayedthreemonthshedividedninetymarksamongthem,inabouttheaboveproportions。Ninetymarksmake$22。50。

  Noneofthesefeesareeverpaiduntilyouleavethehotel,thoughitbeayear——exceptoneofthesefourservantsshouldgoawayinthemeantime;inthatcasehewillbesuretocomeandbidyougood-byandgiveyoutheopportunitytopayhimwhatisfairlycomingtohim。

  Itisconsideredverybadpolicytofeeaservantwhileyouarestilltoremainlongerinthehotel,becauseifyougavehimtoolittlehemightneglectyouafterward,andifyougavehimtoomuchhemightneglectsomebodyelsetoattendtoyou。Itisconsideredbesttokeephisexpectations\"onastring\"untilyourstayinconcluded。

  IdonotknowwhetherhotelservantsinNewYorkgetanywagesornot,butIdoknowthatinsomeofthehotelstherethefeeingsysteminvogueisaheavyburden。Thewaiterexpectsaquarteratbreakfast——andgetsit。Youhaveadifferentwaiteratluncheon,andsohegetsaquarter。

  Yourwaiteratdinnerisanotherstranger——consequentlyhegetsaquarter。Theboywhocarriesyoursatcheltoyourroomandlightsyourgasfumblesaroundandhangsaroundsignificantly,andyoufeehimtogetridofhim。

  Nowyoumayringforice-water;andtenminuteslaterforalemonade;andtenminutesafterward,foracigar;

  andbyandbyforanewspaper——andwhatistheresult?Why,anewboyhasappearedeverytimeandfooledandfumbledarounduntilyouhavepaidhimsomething。Supposeyouboldlyputyourfootdown,andsayitisthehotel\'sbusinesstopayitsservants?Youwillhavetoringyourbelltenorfifteentimesbeforeyougetaservantthere;

  andwhenhegoesofftofillyourorderyouwillgrowoldandinfirmbeforeyouseehimagain。Youmaystrugglenoblyfortwenty-fourhours,maybe,ifyouareanadamantinesortofperson,butinthemeantimeyouwillhavebeensowretchedlyserved,andsoinsolently,thatyouwillhauldownyourcolors,andgotoimpoverishingyourselfwithfees。

  ItseemstomethatitwouldbeahappyideatoimporttheEuropeanfeeingsystemintoAmerica。IbelieveitwouldresultingettingeventhebellsofthePhiladelphiahotelsanswered,andcheerfulservicerendered。

  ThegreatestAmericanhotelskeepanumberofclerksandacashier,andpaythemsalarieswhichmountuptoaconsiderabletotalinthecourseofayear。

  Thegreatcontinentalhotelskeepacashieronatriflingsalary,andaportierWHOPAYSTHEHOTELASALARY。

  Bythelattersystemboththehotelandthepublicsavemoneyandarebetterservedthanbyoursystem。

  OneofourconsulstoldmethataportierofagreatBerlinhotelpaidfivethousanddollarsayearforhisposition,andyetclearedsixthousanddollarsforhimself。

  ThepositionofportierinthechiefhotelsofSaratoga,LongBranch,NewYork,andsimilarcentersofresort,wouldbeonewhichtheholdercouldaffordtopayevenmorethanfivethousanddollarsfor,perhaps。

  WhenweborrowedthefeeingfashionfromEuropeadozenyearsago,thesalarysystemoughttohavebeendiscontinued,ofcourse。Wemightmakethiscorrectionnow,Ishouldthink。

  Andwemightaddtheportier,too。SinceIfirstbegantostudytheportier,IhavehadopportunitiestoobservehiminthechiefcitiesofGermany,Switzerland,andItaly;

  andthemoreIhaveseenofhimthemoreIhavewishedthathemightbeadoptedinAmerica,andbecomethere,asheisinEurope,thestranger\'sguardianangel。

  Yes,whatwastrueeighthundredyearsago,isjustastruetoday:\"Fewtherebethatcankeepahotel。\"

  Perhapsitisbecausethelandlordsandtheirsubordinateshaveintoomanycasestakenuptheirtradewithoutfirstlearningit。InEuropethetradeofhotel-keeperistaught。

  Theapprenticebeginsatthebottomoftheladderandmasterstheseveralgradesoneaftertheother。

  Justasinourcountryprinting-officestheapprenticefirstlearnshowtosweepoutandbringwater;

  thenlearnsto\"roll\";thentosort\"pi\";thentosettype;

  andfinallyroundsandcompleteshiseducationwithjob-workandpress-work;sothelandlord-apprenticeservesascall-boy;thenasunder-waiter;thenasaparlorwaiter;

  thenasheadwaiter,inwhichpositionheoftenhastomakeoutallthebills;thenasclerkorcashier;

  thenasportier。Histradeislearnednow,andbyandbyhewillassumethestyleanddignityoflandlord,andbefoundconductingahotelofhisown。

  NowinEurope,thesameasinAmerica,whenamanhaskeptahotelsothoroughlywellduringanumberofyearsastogiveitagreatreputation,hehashisreward。

  Hecanliveprosperouslyonthatreputation。Hecanlethishotelrundowntothelastdegreeofshabbinessandyethaveitfullofpeopleallthetime。Forinstance,thereistheHo^teldeVille,inMilan。Itswarmswithmiceandfleas,andiftherestoftheworldweredestroyeditcouldfurnishdirtenoughtostartanotheronewith。

  Thefoodwouldcreateaninsurrectioninapoorhouse;

  andyetifyougooutsidetogetyourmealsthathotelmakesupitslossbyoverchargingyouonallsortsoftrifles——andwithoutmakinganydenialsorexcusesaboutit,either。ButtheHo^teldeVille\'soldexcellentreputationstillkeepsitsdrearyroomscrowdedwithtravelerswhowouldbeelsewhereiftheyhadonlysomewisefriendtowarnthem。

  APPENDIXB

  HeidelbergCastleHeidelbergCastlemusthavebeenverybeautifulbeforetheFrenchbatteredandbruisedandscorchedittwohundredyearsago。Thestoneisbrown,withapinkishtint,anddoesnotseemtostaineasily。Thedaintyandelaborateornamentationuponitstwochieffrontsisasdelicatelycarvedasifithadbeenintendedfortheinteriorofadrawing-roomratherthanfortheoutsideofahouse。

  Manyfruitandflowerclusters,humanheadsandgrimprojectinglions\'headsarestillasperfectineverydetailasiftheywerenew。Butthestatueswhicharerankedbetweenthewindowshavesuffered。Thesearelife-sizestatuesofold-timeemperors,electors,andsimilargrandees,cladinmailandbearingponderousswords。

  Somehavelostanarm,someahead,andonepoorfellowischoppedoffatthemiddle。Thereisasayingthatifastrangerwillpassoverthedrawbridgeandwalkacrossthecourttothecastlefrontwithoutsayinganything,hecanmadeawishanditwillbefulfilled。Buttheysaythatthetruthofthisthinghasneverhadachancetobeproved,forthereasonthatbeforeanystrangercanwalkfromthedrawbridgetotheappointedplace,thebeautyofthepalacefrontwillextortanexclamationofdelightfromhim。

  Aruinmustberightlysituated,tobeeffective。

  Thisonecouldnothavebeenbetterplaced。Itstandsuponacommandingelevation,itisburiedingreenwords,thereisnolevelgroundaboutit,but,onthecontrary,therearewoodedterracesuponterraces,andonelooksdownthroughshiningleavesintoprofoundchasmsandabysseswheretwilightreignsandthesuncannotintrude。

  Natureknowshowtogarnisharuintogetthebesteffect。

  Oneoftheseoldtowersissplitdownthemiddle,andonehalfhastumbledaside。Ittumbledinsuchawayastoestablishitselfinapicturesqueattitude。Thenallitlackedwasafittingdrapery,andNaturehasfurnishedthat;

  shehasrobedtheruggedmassinflowersandverdure,andmadeitacharmtotheeye。Thestandinghalfexposesitsarchedandcavernousroomstoyou,likeopen,toothlessmouths;there,too,thevinesandflowershavedonetheirworkofgrace。Therearportionofthetowerhasnotbeenneglected,either,butisclothedwithaclinginggarmentofpolishedivywhichhidesthewoundsandstainsoftime。Eventhetopisnotleftbare,butiscrownedwithaflourishinggroupoftreesandshrubs。

  Misfortunehasdoneforthisoldtowerwhatithasdoneforthehumancharactersometimes——improvedit。

  Agentlemanremarked,oneday,thatitmighthavebeenfinetoliveinthecastleinthedayofitsprime,butthatwehadoneadvantagewhichitsvanishedinhabitantslacked——theadvantageofhavingacharmingruintovisitandmuseover。Butthatwasahastyidea。

  ThosepeoplehadtheadvantageofUS。Theyhadthefinecastletolivein,andtheycouldcrosstheRhinevalleyandmuseoverthestatelyruinofTrifelsbesides。

  TheTrifelspeople,intheirday,fivehundredyearsago,couldgoandmuseovermajesticruinsthathavevanished,now,tothelaststone。Therehavealwaysbeenruins,nodoubt;andtherehavealwaysbeenpensivepeopletosighoverthem,andassestoscratchuponthemtheirnamesandtheimportantdateoftheirvisit。WithinahundredyearsafterAdamleftEden,theguideprobablygavetheusualgeneralflourishwithhishandandsaid:\"Placewheretheanimalswerenamed,ladiesandgentlemen;

  placewherethetreeoftheforbiddenfruitstood;

  exactspotwhereAdamandEvefirstmet;andhere,ladiesandgentlemen,adornedandhallowedbythenamesandaddressesofthreegenerationsoftourists,wehavethecrumblingremainsofCain\'saltar——fineoldruin!\"

  Then,nodoubt,hetaxedthemashekelapieceandletthemgo。

  AnilluminationofHeidelbergCastleisoneofthesightsofEurope。TheCastle\'spicturesqueshape;

  itscommandingsituation,midwayupthesteepandwoodedmountainside;itsvastsize——thesefeaturescombinetomakeanilluminationamosteffectivespectacle。

  Itisnecessarilyanexpensiveshow,andconsequentlyratherinfrequent。Thereforewheneveroneoftheseexhibitionsistotakeplace,thenewsgoesaboutinthepapersandHeidelbergissuretobefullofpeopleonthatnight。

  Iandmyagenthadoneoftheseopportunities,andimprovedit。

  Abouthalfpastsevenontheappointedeveningwecrossedthelowerbridge,withsomeAmericanstudents,inapouringrain,andstarteduptheroadwhichborderstheNeunheimsideoftheriver。Thisroadwaywasdenselypackedwithcarriagesandfoot-passengers;theformerofallages,andthelatterofallagesandbothsexes。

  Thisblackandsolidmasswasstrugglingpainfullyonward,throughtheslop,thedarkness,andthedeluge。

  Wewadedalongforthree-quartersofamile,andfinallytookupapositioninanunshelteredbeer-gardendirectlyoppositetheCastle。WecouldnotSEEtheCastle——oranythingelse,forthatmatter——butwecoulddimlydiscerntheoutlinesofthemountainovertheway,throughthepervadingblackness,andknewwhereaboutstheCastlewaslocated。Westoodononeofthehundredbenchesinthegarden,underourumbrellas;theotherninety-ninewereoccupiedbystandingmenandwomen,andtheyalsohadumbrellas。Alltheregionroundabout,andupanddowntheriver-road,wasadensewildernessofhumanityhiddenunderanunbrokenpavementofcarriagetopsandumbrellas。Thuswestoodduringtwodrenchinghours。

  Norainfellonmyhead,buttheconvergingwhalebonepointsofadozenneighboringumbrellaspouredlittlecoolingsteamsofwaterdownmyneck,andsometimesintomyears,andthuskeptmefromgettinghotandimpatient。

  Ihadtherheumatism,too,andhadheardthatthiswasgoodforit。Afterward,however,IwasledtobelievethatthewatertreatmentisNOTgoodforrheumatism。

  Therewereevenlittlegirlsinthatdreadfulplace。

  Amenheldoneinhisarms,justinfrontofme,forasmuchasanhour,withumbrella-drippingssoakingintoherclothingallthetime。

  Inthecircumstances,twohourswasagoodwhileforustohavetowait,butwhentheilluminationdidatlastcome,wefeltrepaid。Itcameunexpectedly,ofcourse——thingsalwaysdo,thathavebeenlonglookedandlongedfor。

  Withaperfectlybreath-takingsuddennessseveralmastsheavesofvaricoloredrocketswerevomitedskywardoutoftheblackthroatsoftheCastletowers,accompaniedbyathunderingcrashofsound,andinstantlyeverydetailoftheprodigiousruinstoodrevealedagainstthemountainsideandglowingwithanalmostintolerablesplendoroffireandcolor。Forsomelittletimethewholebuildingwasablindingcrimsonmass,thetowerscontinuedtospoutthickcolumnsofrocketsaloft,andoverheadtheskywasradiantwitharrowyboltswhichclovetheirwaytothezenith,paused,curvedgracefullydownward,thenburstintobrilliantfountain-spraysofrichlycoloredsparks。

  Theredfiresdiedslowlydown,withintheCastle,andpresentlytheshellgrewnearlyblackoutside;

  theangryglarethatshoneoutthroughthebrokenarchesandinnumerablesashlesswindows,now,reproducedtheaspectwhichtheCastlemusthaveborneintheoldtimewhentheFrenchspoilerssawthemonsterbonfirewhichtheyhadmadetherefadingandspoilingtowardextinction。

  Whilewestillgazedandenjoyed,theruinwassuddenlyenvelopedinrollingandrumblingvolumesofvaporousgreenfire;thenindazzlingpurpleones;thenamixtureofmanycolorsfollowed,thendrownedthegreatfabricinitsblendedsplendors。Meantimethenearestbridgehadbeenilluminated,andfromseveralraftsanchoredintheriver,meteorshowersofrockets,Romancandles,bombs,serpents,andCatharinewheelswerebeingdischargedinwastefulprofusionintothesky——amarveloussightindeedtoapersonaslittleusedtosuchspectaclesasIwas。

  Forawhilethewholeregionaboutusseemedasbrightasday,andyettherainwasfallingintorrentsallthetime。

  Theevening\'sentertainmentpresentlyclosed,andwejoinedtheinnumerablecaravanofhalf-drownedstrangers,andwadedhomeagain。

  TheCastlegroundsareveryampleandverybeautiful;

  andastheyjoinedtheHotelgrounds,withnofencestoclimb,butonlysomenoblyshadedstonestairwaystodescend,wespentapartofnearlyeverydayinidlingthroughtheirsmoothwalksandleafygroves。

  Therewasanattractivespotamongthetreeswherewereagreatmanywoodentablesandbenches;andthereonecouldsitintheshadeandpretendtosipathisfoamybeakerofbeerwhileheinspectedthecrowd。Isaypretend,becauseIonlypretendedtosip,withoutreallysipping。

  Thatisthepoliteway;butwhenyouarereadytogo,youemptythebeakeratadraught。Therewasabrassband,anditfurnishedexcellentmusiceveryafternoon。

  Sometimessomanypeoplecamethateveryseatwasoccupied,everytablefilled。Andneveraroughintheassemblace——allnicelydressedfathersandmothers,younggentlemenandladiesandchildren;andplentyofuniversitystudentsandglitteringofficers;withhereandthereagrayprofessor,orapeacefuloldladywithherknitting;

  andalwaysasprinklingofgawkyforeigners。

  Everybodyhadhisglassofbeerbeforehim,orhiscupofcoffee,orhisbottleofwine,orhishotcutletandpotatoes;youngladieschatted,orfannedthemselves,orwroughtattheircrochetingorembroidering;

  thestudentsfedsugartotheirdogs,ordiscussedduels,orillustratednewfencingtrickswiththeirlittlecanes;

  andeverywherewascomfortandenjoyment,andeverywherepeaceandgood-willtomen。Thetreeswerejubilantwithbirds,andthepathswithrollickingchildren。

  Onecouldhaveaseatinthatplaceandplentyofmusic,anyafternoon,forabouteightcents,orafamilyticketfortheseasonfortwodollars。

  Forachange,whenyouwantedone,youcouldstrolltotheCastle,andburrowamongitsdungeons,orclimbaboutitsruinedtowers,orvisititsinteriorshows——thegreatHeidelbergTun,forinstance。EverybodyhasheardofthegreatHeidelbergTun,andmostpeoplehaveseenit,nodoubt。Itisawine-caskasbigasacottage,andsometraditionssayitholdseighteenthousandbottles,andothertraditionssayitholdseighteenhundredmillionbarrels。

  Ithinkitlikelythatoneofthesestatementsisamistake,andtheotherisalie。However,themerematterofcapacityisathingofnosortofconsequence,sincethecaskisempty,andindeedhasalwaysbeenempty,historysays。Anemptycaskthesizeofacathedralcouldexcitebutlittleemotioninme。Idonotseeanywisdominbuildingamonstercasktohoardupemptinessin,whenyoucangetabetterquality,outside,anyday,freeofexpense。Whatcouldthiscaskhavebeenbuiltfor?Themoreonestudiesoverthat,themoreuncertainandunhappyhebecomes。Somehistorianssaythatthirtycouples,somesaythirtythousandcouples,candanceontheheadofthiscaskatthesametime。

  Eventhisdoesnotseemtometoaccountforthebuildingofit。Itdoesnoteventhrowlightonit。AprofoundandscholarlyEnglishman——aspecialist——whohadmadethegreatHeidelbergTunhissolestudyforfifteenyears,toldmehehadatlastsatisfiedhimselfthattheancientsbuiltittomakeGermancreamin。HesaidthattheaverageGermancowyieldedfromonetotwoandhalfteaspoonsofmilk,whenshewasnotworkedintheploworthehay-wagonmorethaneighteenornineteenhoursaday。Thismilkwasverysweetandgood,andabeautifultransparentbluishtint;butinordertogetcreamfromitinthemosteconomicalway,apeculiarprocesswasnecessary。

  Nowhebelievedthatthehabitoftheancientswastocollectseveralmilkingsinateacup,pouritintotheGreatTun,fillupwithwater,andthenskimoffthecreamfromtimetotimeastheneedsoftheGermanEmpiredemanded。

  Thisbegantolookreasonable。ItcertainlybegantoaccountfortheGermancreamwhichIhadencounteredandmarveledoverinsomanyhotelsandrestaurants。

  Butathoughtstruckme——

  \"Whydidnoteachancientdairymantakehisownteacupofmilkandhisowncaskofwater,andmixthem,withoutmakingagovernmentmatterofit?\'

  \"Wherecouldhegetacasklargeenoughtocontaintherightproportionofwater?\"

  Verytrue。ItwasplainthattheEnglishmanhadstudiedthematterfromallsides。StillIthoughtImightcatchhimononepoint;soIaskedhimwhythemodernempiredidnotmakethenation\'screamintheHeidelbergTun,insteadofleavingittorotawayunused。Butheansweredasoneprepared——

  \"ApatientanddiligentexaminationofthemodernGermancreamhadsatisfiedmethattheydonotusetheGreatTunnow,becausetheyhavegotaBIGGERonehidawaysomewhere。

  EitherthatisthecaseortheyemptythespringmilkingsintothemountaintorrentsandthenskimtheRhineallsummer。\"

  ThereisamuseumofantiquitiesintheCastle,andamongitsmosttreasuredrelicsareancientmanuscriptsconnectedwithGermanhistory。Therearehundredsofthese,andtheirdatesstretchbackthroughmanycenturies。

  OneofthemisadecreesignedandsealedbythehandofasuccessorofCharlemagne,intheyear896。

  Asignaturemadebyahandwhichvanishedoutofthislifenearathousandyearsago,isamoreimpressivethingthanevenaruinedcastle。Luther\'swedding-ringwasshownme;

  alsoaforkbelongingtoatimeanteriortoourera,andanearlybookjack。Andtherewasaplastercastoftheheadofamanwhowasassassinatedaboutsixtyyearsago。Thestab-woundsinthefacewereduplicatedwithunpleasantfidelity。Oneortworealhairsstillremainedstickingintheeyebrowsofthecast。

  Thattrifleseemedtoalmostchangethecounterfeitintoacorpse。

  Therearemanyagedportraits——somevaluable,someworthless;

  someofgreatinterest,someofnoneatall。Iboughtacouple——oneagorgeousdukeoftheoldentime,andtheotheracomelyblue-eyeddamsel,aprincess,maybe。Iboughtthemtostartaportrait-galleryofmyancestorswith。

  Ipaidadollarandahalfforthedukeandahalffortheprincess。Onecanlayinancestorsatevencheaperratesthanthese,inEurope,ifhewillmouseamongoldpictureshopsandlookoutforchances。

  APPENDIXC

  TheCollegePrisonItseemsthatthestudentmaybreakagoodmanyofthepubliclawswithouthavingtoanswertothepublicauthorities。

  HiscasemustcomebeforetheUniversityfortrialandpunishment。Ifapolicemancatcheshiminanunlawfulactandproceedstoarresthim,theoffenderproclaimsthatheisastudent,andperhapsshowshismatriculationcard,whereupontheofficerasksforhisaddress,thengoeshisway,andreportsthematteratheadquarters。Iftheoffenseisoneoverwhichthecityhasnojurisdiction,theauthoritiesreportthecaseofficiallytotheUniversity,andgivethemselvesnofurtherconcernaboutit。

  TheUniversitycourtsendforthestudent,listentotheevidence,andpronouncejudgment。ThepunishmentusuallyinflictedisimprisonmentintheUniversityprison。

  AsIunderstandit,astudent\'scaseisoftentriedwithouthisbeingpresentatall。Thensomethinglikethishappens:AconstableintheserviceoftheUniversityvisitsthelodgingsofthesaidstudent,knocks,isinvitedtocomein,doesso,andsayspolitely——

  \"Ifyouplease,Iamheretoconductyoutoprison。\"

  \"Ah,\"saysthestudent,\"Iwasnotexpectingit。

  WhathaveIbeendoing?\"

  \"Twoweeksagothepublicpeacehadthehonortobedisturbedbyyou。\"

  \"Itistrue;Ihadforgottenit。Verywell:Ihavebeencomplainedof,tried,andfoundguilty——isthatit?\"

  \"Exactly。Youaresentencedtotwodays\'solitaryconfinementintheCollegeprison,andIamsenttofetchyou。\"

  STUDENT。\"O,Ican\'tgotoday。\"

  OFFICER。\"Ifyouplease——why?\"

  STUDENT。\"BecauseI\'vegotanengagement。\"

  OFFICER。\"Tomorrow,then,perhaps?\"

  STUDENT。\"No,Iamgoingtotheopera,tomorrow。\"

  OFFICER。\"CouldyoucomeFriday?\"

  STUDENT。Reflectively。\"Letmesee——Friday——Friday。

  Idon\'tseemtohaveanythingonhandFriday。\"

  OFFICER。\"Then,ifyouplease,IwillexpectyouonFriday。\"

  STUDENT。\"Allright,I\'llcomearoundFriday。\"

  OFFICER。\"Thankyou。Goodday,sir。\"

  STUDENT。\"Goodday。\"

  SoonFridaythestudentgoestotheprisonofhisownaccord,andisadmitted。

  Itisquestionableiftheworld\'scriminalhistorycanshowacustommoreoddthanthis。Nobodyknows,now,howitoriginated。Therehavealwaysbeenmanynoblemenamongthestudents,anditispresumedthatallstudentsaregentlemen;intheoldtimesitwasusualtomartheconvenienceofsuchfolkaslittleaspossible;

  perhapsthisindulgentcustomowesitsorigintothis。

  OnedayIwaslisteningtosomeconversationuponthissubjectwhenanAmericanstudentsaidthatforsometimehehadbeenundersentenceforaslightbreachofthepeaceandhadpromisedtheconstablethathewouldpresentlyfindanunoccupieddayandbetakehimselftoprison。

  Iaskedtheyounggentlemantodomethekindnesstogotojailassoonasheconvenientlycould,sothatImighttrytogetinthereandvisithim,andseewhatcollegecaptivitywaslike。Hesaidhewouldappointtheveryfirstdayhecouldspare。

  Hisconfinementwastoenduretwenty-fourhours。Heshortlychosehisday,andsentmeword。Istartedimmediately。

  WhenIreachedtheUniversityPlace,Isawtwogentlementalkingtogether,and,astheyhadportfoliosundertheirarms,Ijudgedtheyweretutorsorelderlystudents;

  soIaskedtheminEnglishtoshowmethecollegejail。

  IhadlearnedtotakeitforgrantedthatanybodyinGermanywhoknowsanything,knowsEnglish,soIhadstoppedafflictingpeoplewithmyGerman。Thesegentlemenseemedatrifleamused——andatrifleconfused,too——butoneofthemsaidhewouldwalkaroundthecornerwithmeandshowmetheplace。HeaskedmewhyIwantedtogetinthere,andIsaidtoseeafriend——andforcuriosity。

  HedoubtedifIwouldbeadmitted,butvolunteeredtoputinawordortwoformewiththecustodian。

  Herangthebell,adooropened,andwesteppedintoapavedwayandthenupintoasmallliving-room,wherewewerereceivedbyaheartyandgood-naturedGermanwomanoffifty。

  Shethrewupherhandswithasurprised\"ACHGOTT,HERRPROFESSOR!\"andexhibitedamightydeferenceformynewacquaintance。BythesparkleinhereyeIjudgedshewasagooddealamused,too。The\"HerrProfessor\"

  talkedtoherinGerman,andIunderstoodenoughofittoknowthathewasbringingveryplausiblereasonstobearforadmittingme。Theyweresuccessful。SotheHerrProfessorreceivedmyearnestthanksanddeparted。

  Theolddamegotherkeys,tookmeuptwoorthreeflightsofstairs,unlockedadoor,andwestoodinthepresenceofthecriminal。Thenshewentintoajollyandeagerdescriptionofallthathadoccurreddownstairs,andwhattheHerrProfessorhadsaid,andsoforthandsoon。

  Plainly,sheregardeditasquiteasuperiorjokethatIhadwaylaidaProfessorandemployedhiminsooddaservice。

  ButIwouldn\'thavedoneitifIhadknownhewasaProfessor;

  thereforemyconsciencewasnotdisturbed。

  Nowthedameleftustoourselves。Thecellwasnotaroomyone;

  stillitwasalittlelargerthananordinaryprisoncell。

  Ithadawindowofgoodsize,iron-grated;asmallstove;

  twowoodenchairs;twooakentables,veryoldandmostelaboratelycarvedwithnames,mottoes,faces,armorialbearings,etc——theworkofseveralgenerationsofimprisonedstudents;andanarrowwoodenbedsteadwithavillainousstrawmattress,butnosheets,pillows,blankets,orcoverlets——forthesethestudentmustfurnishathisowncostifhewantsthem。Therewasnocarpet,ofcourse。

  Theceilingwascompletelycoveredwithnames,dates,andmonograms,donewithcandle-smoke。Thewallswerethicklycoveredwithpicturesandportraitsinprofile,somedonewithink,somewithsoot,somewithapencil,andsomewithred,blue,andgreenchalks;andwheneveraninchortwoofspacehadremainedbetweenthepictures,thecaptiveshadwrittenplaintiveverses,ornamesanddates。IdonotthinkIwaseverinamoreelaboratelyfrescoedapartment。

  Againstthewallhungaplacardcontainingtheprisonlaws。

  Imadeanoteofoneortwoofthese。Forinstance:

  Theprisonermustpay,forthe\"privilege\"ofentering,asumequivalentto20centsofourmoney;fortheprivilegeofleaving,whenhistermhadexpired,20cents;foreverydayspentintheprison,12cents;forfireandlight,12centsaday。Thejailerfurnishescoffee,mornings,forasmallsum;dinnersandsuppersmaybeorderedfromoutsideiftheprisonerchooses——andheisallowedtopayforthem,too。

  Hereandthere,onthewalls,appearedthenamesofAmericanstudents,andinoneplacetheAmericanarmsandmottoweredisplayedincoloredchalks。

  WiththehelpofmyfriendItranslatedmanyoftheinscriptions。

  Someofthemwerecheerful,othersthereverse。

  Iwillgivethereaderafewspecimens:

  \"Inmytenthsemestermybestone,Iamcastherethroughthecomplaintsofothers。Letthosewhofollowmetakewarning。\"

  \"IIITAGEOHNEGRUNDANGEBLICHAUSNEUGIERDE。\"Whichistosay,hehadacuriositytoknowwhatprisonlifewaslike;

  sohemadeabreachinsomelawandgotthreedaysforit。

  Itismorethanlikelythatheneverhadthesamecuriosityagain。

  TRANSLATION。\"E。Glinicke,fourdaysforbeingtooeageraspectatorofarow。\"

  \"F。GrafBismarck——27-29,II,\'74。\"WhichmeansthatCountBismarck,sonofthegreatstatesman,wasaprisonertwodaysin1874。

  TRANSLATION。\"R。Diergandt——forLove——4days。\"

  Manypeopleinthisworldhavecaughtitheavierthanforthesameindiscretion。

点击下载App,搜索"A TRAMP ABROAD",免费读到尾