WhileIwasfeelingthesethings，Iwasgroping，withoutknowingit，towardanunderstandingofwhatthespelliswhichpeoplefindintheAlps，andinnoothermountains——thatstrange，deep，namelessinfluence，which，oncefelt，cannotbeforgotten——oncefelt，leavesalwaysbehinditarestlesslongingtofeelitagain——alongingwhichislikehomesickness；agrieving，hauntingyearningwhichwillplead，implore，andpersecutetillithasitswill。
Imetdozensofpeople，imaginativeandunimaginative，cultivatedanduncultivated，whohadcomefromfarcountriesandroamedthroughtheSwissAlpsyearafteryear——theycouldnotexplainwhy。Theyhadcomefirst，theysaid，outofidlecuriosity，becauseeverybodytalkedaboutit；
theyhadcomesincebecausetheycouldnothelpit，andtheyshouldkeeponcoming，whiletheylived，forthesamereason；
theyhadtriedtobreaktheirchainsandstayaway，butitwasfutile；now，theyhadnodesiretobreakthem。
Otherscamenearerformulatingwhattheyfelt；theysaidtheycouldfindperfectrestandpeacenowhereelsewhentheyweretroubled:allfretsandworriesandchafingssanktosleepinthepresenceofthebenignantserenityoftheAlps；
theGreatSpiritoftheMountainbreathedhisownpeaceupontheirhurtmindsandsorehearts，andhealedthem；
theycouldnotthinkbasethoughtsordomeanandsordidthingshere，beforethevisiblethroneofGod。
DowntheroadapiecewasaKursaal——whateverthatmaybe——
andwejoinedthehumantidetoseewhatsortofenjoymentitmightafford。Itwastheusualopen-airconcert，inanornamentalgarden，withwines，beer，milk，whey，grapes，etc——thewheyandthegrapesbeingnecessariesoflifetocertaininvalidswhomphysicianscannotrepair，andwhoonlycontinuetoexistbythegraceofwheyorgrapes。Oneofthesedepartedspiritstoldme，inasadandlifelessway，thatthereisnowayforhimtolivebutbywhey，anddearly，dearlylovedwhey，hedidn\'tknowwheyhedid，buthedid。Aftermakingthispunhedied——thatisthewheyitservedhim。
Someotherremains，preservedfromdecompositionbythegrapesystem，toldmethatthegrapeswereofapeculiarbreed，highlymedicinalintheirnature，andthattheywerecountedoutandadministeredbythegrape-doctorsasmethodicallyasiftheywerepills。
Thenewpatient，ifveryfeeble，beganwithonegrapebeforebreakfast，tookthreeduringbreakfast，acouplebetweenmeals，fiveatluncheon，threeintheafternoon，sevenatdinner，fourforsupper，andpartofagrapejustbeforegoingtobed，bywayofageneralregulator。
Thequantitywasgraduallyandregularlyincreased，accordingtotheneedsandcapacitiesofthepatient，untilbyandbyyouwouldfindhimdisposingofhisonegrapepersecondallthedaylong，andhisregularbarrelperday。
Hesaidthatmencuredinthisway，andenabledtodiscardthegrapesystem，neverafterwardgotoverthehabitoftalkingasiftheyweredictatingtoaslowamanuensis，becausetheyalwaysmadeapausebetweeneachtwowordswhiletheysuckedthesubstanceoutofanimaginarygrape。
Hesaidtheseweretediouspeopletotalkwith。
Hesaidthatmenwhohadbeencuredbytheotherprocesswereeasilydistinguishedfromtherestofmankindbecausetheyalwaystiltedtheirheadsback，betweeneverytwowords，andswallowedaswigofimaginarywhey。
Hesaiditwasanimpressivethingtoobservetwomen，whohadbeencuredbythetwoprocesses，engagedinconversation——saidtheirpausesandaccompanyingmovementsweresocontinuousandregularthatastrangerwouldthinkhimselfinthepresenceofacoupleofautomaticmachines。
Onefindsoutagreatmanywonderfulthings，bytraveling，ifhestumblesupontherightperson。
IdidnotremainlongattheKursaal；themusicwasgoodenough，butitseemedrathertameafterthecycloneofthatArkansawexpert。Besides，myadventurousspirithadconceivedaformidableenterprise——nothinglessthanatripfromInterlaken，bytheGemmiandVisp，cleartoZermatt，onfoot!Soitwasnecessarytoplanthedetails，andgetreadyforanearlystart。ThecourierthiswasnottheoneIhavejustbeenspeakingof
thoughtthattheportierofthehotelwouldbeabletotellushowtofindourway。Andsoitturnedout。
Heshowedusthewholething，onarelief-map，andwecouldseeourroute，withallitselevationsanddepressions，itsvillagesanditsrivers，asclearlyasifweweresailingoveritinaballoon。Arelief-mapisagreatthing。
Theportieralsowrotedowneachday\'sjourneyandthenightlyhotelonapieceofpaper，andmadeourcoursesoplainthatweshouldneverbeabletogetlostwithouthigh-pricedoutsidehelp。
IputthecourierinthecareofagentlemanwhowasgoingtoLausanne，andthenwewenttobed，afterlayingoutthewalking-costumesandputtingthemintoconditionforinstantoccupationinthemorning。
However，whenwecamedowntobreakfastat8A。M。，itlookedsomuchlikerainthatIhiredatwo-horsetop-buggyforthefirstthirdofthejourney。FortwoorthreehourswejoggedalongthelevelroadwhichskirtsthebeautifullakeofThun，withadimanddreamlikepictureofwateryexpansesandspectralAlpineformsalwaysbeforeus，veiledinamellowingmist。Thenasteadydownpoursetin，andhideverythingbutthenearestobjects。
Wekepttherainoutofourfaceswithumbrellas，andawayfromourbodieswiththeleatherapronofthebuggy；
butthedriversatunshelteredandplacidlysoakedtheweatherinandseemedtolikeit。Wehadtheroadtoourselves，andIneverhadapleasanterexcursion。
TheweatherbegantoclearwhileweweredrivingupavalleycalledtheKienthal，andpresentlyavastblackcloud-bankinfrontofusdissolvedawayanduncurtainedthegrandproportionsandthesoaringloftinessoftheBlumisAlp。Itwasasortofbreath-takingsurprise；
forwehadnotsupposedtherewasanythingbehindthatlow-hungblanketofsablecloudbutlevelvalley。
Whatwehadbeenmistakingforfleetingglimpsesofskyawayaloftthere，werereallypatchesoftheBlumis\'ssnowycrestcaughtthroughshreddedrentsinthedriftingpallofvapor。
WedinedintheinnatFrutigen，andourdriveroughttohavedinedthere，too，buthewouldnothavehadtimetodineandgetdrunkboth，sohegavehismindtomakingamasterpieceofthelatter，andsucceeded。
AGermangentlemanandhistwoyoung-ladydaughtershadbeentakingtheirnooningattheinn，andwhentheyleft，justaheadofus，itwasplainthattheirdriverwasasdrunkasours，andashappyandgood-natured，too，whichwassayingagooddeal。Theserascalsoverflowedwithattentionsandinformationfortheirguests，andwithbrotherlyloveforeachother。Theytiedtheirreins，andtookofftheircoatsandhats，sothattheymightbeabletogiveunencumberedattentiontoconversationandtothegesturesnecessaryforitsillustration。
Theroadwassmooth；itledupandoveranddownacontinualsuccessionofhills；butitwasnarrow，thehorseswereusedtoit，andcouldnotwellgetoutofitanyhow；
sowhyshouldn\'tthedriversentertainthemselvesandus?
Thenosesofourhorsesprojectedsociablyintotherearoftheforwardcarriage，andaswetoiledupthelonghillsourdriverstoodupandtalkedtohisfriend，andhisfriendstoodupandtalkedbacktohim，withhisreartothescenery。Whenthetopwasreachedandwewentflyingdowntheotherside，therewasnochangeintheprogram。Icarryinmymemoryyetthepictureofthatforwarddriver，onhiskneesonhishighseat，restinghiselbowsonitsback，andbeamingdownonhispassengers，withhappyeye，andflyinghair，andjollyredface，andofferinghiscardtotheoldGermangentlemanwhilehepraisedhishackandhorses，andbothteamswerewhizzingdownalonghillwithnobodyinapositiontotellwhetherwewereboundtodestructionoranundeservedsafety。
Towardsunsetweenteredabeautifulgreenvalleydottedwithchalets，acozylittledomainhiddenawayfromthebusyworldinacloisterednookamonggiantprecipicestoppedwithsnowypeaksthatseemedtofloatlikeislandsabovethecurlingsurfoftheseaofvaporthatseveredthemfromthelowerworld。Downfromvagueandvaporousheights，littleruffledzigzagmilkycurrentscamecrawling，andfoundtheirwaytothevergeofoneofthosetremendousoverhangingwalls，whencetheyplunged，ashaftofsilver，shiveredtoatomsinmid-descentandturnedtoanairpuffofluminousdust。Hereandthere，ingrooveddepressionsamongthesnowydesolationsoftheupperaltitudes，oneglimpsedtheextremityofaglacier，withitssea-greenandhoneycombedbattlementsofice。
Upthevalley，underadizzyprecipice，nestledthevillageofKandersteg，ourhalting-placeforthenight。
Weweresoonthere，andhousedinthehotel。Butthewaningdayhadsuchaninvitinginfluencethatwedidnotremainhousedmanymoments，butstruckoutandfollowedaroaringtorrentofice-wateruptoitsfarsourceinasortoflittlegrass-carpetedparlor，walledinallaroundbyvastprecipicesandoverlookedbyclusteringsummitsofice。
Thiswasthesnuggestlittlecroquet-groundimaginable；
itwasperfectlylevel，andnotmorethanamilelongbyhalfamilewide。Thewallsarounditweresogigantic，andeverythingaboutitwasonsomightyascalethatitwasbelittled，bycontrast，towhatIhavelikeneditto——acozyandcarpetedparlor。ItwassohighabovetheKanderstegvalleythattherewasnothingbetweenitandthesnowy-peaks。Ihadneverbeeninsuchintimaterelationswiththehighaltitudesbefore；thesnow-peakshadalwaysbeenremoteandunapproachablegrandeurs，hitherto，butnowwewerehob-a-nob——ifonemayusesuchaseeminglyirreverentexpressionaboutcreationssoaugustasthese。
Wecouldseethestreamswhichfedthetorrentwehadfollowedissuingfromunderthegreenishrampartsofglaciers；buttwoorthreeofthese，insteadofflowingovertheprecipices，sankdownintotherockandspranginbigjetsoutofholesinthemid-faceofthewalls。
ThegreennookwhichIhavebeendescribingiscalledtheGasternthal。Theglacierstreamsgatherandflowthroughitinabroadandrushingbrooktoanarrowcleftbetweenloftyprecipices；heretherushingbrookbecomesamadtorrentandgoesboomingandthunderingdowntowardKandersteg，lashingandthrashingitswayoverandamongmonsterboulders，andhurlingchancerootsandlogsaboutlikestraws。
Therewasnolackofcascadesalongthisroute。
Thepathbythesideofthetorrentwassonarrowthatonehadtolooksharp，whenheheardacow-bell，andhuntforaplacethatwaswideenoughtoaccommodateacowandaChristiansidebyside，andsuchplaceswerenotalwaystobehadataninstant\'snotice。Thecowswearchurch-bells，andthatisagoodideainthecows，forwherethattorrentis，youcouldn\'thearanordinarycow-bellanyfurtherthanyoucouldhearthetickingofawatch。
Ineededexercise，soIemployedmyagentinsettingstrandedlogsanddeadtreesadrift，andIsatonaboulderandwatchedthemgowhirlingandleapingheadoverheelsdowntheboilingtorrent。Itwasawonderfullyexhilaratingspectacle。WhenIhadhadenoughexercise，Imadetheagenttakesome，byrunningaracewithoneofthoselogs。Imadeatriflebybettingonthelog。
AfterdinnerwehadawalkupanddowntheKanderstegvalley，inthesoftgloaming，withthespectacleofthedyinglightsofdayplayingaboutthecrestsandpinnaclesofthestillandsolemnupperrealmforcontrast，andtextfortalk。
Therewerenosoundsbutthedulledcomplainingofthetorrentandtheoccasionaltinklingofadistantbell。
Thespiritoftheplacewasasenseofdeep，pervadingpeace；
onemightdreamhislifetranquillyawaythere，andnotmissitorminditwhenitwasgone。
Thesummerdepartedwiththesun，andwintercamewiththestars。Itgrewtobeabitternightinthatlittlehotel，backedupagainstaprecipicethathadnovisibletoptoit，butwekeptwarm，andwokeintimeinthemorningtofindthateverybodyelsehadleftforGemmithreehoursbefore——
soourlittleplanofhelpingthatGermanfamilyprincipallytheoldmanoverthepass，wasablockedgenerosity。
CHAPTERXXXIV
[TheWorld\'sHighestPigFarm]
Wehiredtheonlyguideleft，toleadusonourway。
Hewasoverseventy，buthecouldhavegivenmenine-tenthsofhisstrengthandstillhadallhisageentitledhimto。
Heshoulderedoursatchels，overcoats，andalpenstocks，andwesetoutupthesteeppath。Itwashotwork。
Theoldmansoonbeggedustohandoverourcoatsandwaistcoatstohimtocarry，too，andwedidit；
onecouldnotrefusesolittleathingtoapooroldmanlikethat；heshouldhavehadthemifhehadbeenahundredandfifty。
Whenwebeganthatascent，wecouldseeamicroscopicchaletperchedawayupagainstheavenonwhatseemedtobethehighestmountainnearus。Itwasonourright，acrossthenarrowheadofthevalley。Butwhenwegotupabreastitonitsownlevel，mountainsweretoweringhighaboveoneveryhand，andwesawthatitsaltitudewasjustaboutthatofthelittleGasternthalwhichwehadvisitedtheeveningbefore。Stillitseemedalongwayupintheair，inthatwasteandlonelywildernessofrocks。
Ithadanunfencedgrass-plotinfrontofitwhichseemedaboutasbigasabilliard-table，andthisgrass-plotslantedsosharplydownward，andwassobrief，andendedsoexceedinglysoonatthevergeoftheabsoluteprecipice，thatitwasashudderythingtothinkofaperson\'sventuringtotrusthisfootonaninclinesosituatedatall。
Supposeamansteppedonanorangepeelinthatyard；
therewouldbenothingforhimtoseize；nothingcouldkeephimfromrolling；fiverevolutionswouldbringhimtotheedge，andoverhewouldgo。Whatafrightfuldistancehewouldfall!——forthereareveryfewbirdsthatflyashighashisstarting-point。Hewouldstrikeandbounce，twoorthreetimes，onhiswaydown，butthiswouldbenoadvantagetohim。Iwouldassoontakinganairingontheslantofarainbowasinsuchafrontyard。
Iwouldrather，infact，forthedistancedownwouldbeaboutthesame，anditispleasantertoslidethantobounce。
Icouldnotseehowthepeasantsgotuptothatchalet——
theregionseemedtoosteepforanythingbutaballoon。
Aswestrolledon，climbinguphigherandhigher，wewerecontinuallybringingneighboringpeaksintoviewandloftyprominencewhichhadbeenhiddenbehindlowerpeaksbefore；
sobyandby，whilestandingbeforeagroupofthesegiants，welookedaroundforthechaletagain；thereitwas，awaydownbelowus，apparentlyonaninconspicuousridgeinthevalley!Itwasasfarbelowus，now，asithadbeenaboveuswhenwewerebeginningtheascent。
Afterawhilethepathledusalongarailedprecipice，andwelookedover——farbeneathuswasthesnugparloragain，thelittleGasternthal，withitswaterjetsspoutingfromthefaceofitsrockwalls。Wecouldhavedroppedastoneintoit。Wehadbeenfindingthetopoftheworldallalong——andalwaysfindingastillhighertopstealingintoviewinadisappointingwayjustahead；whenwelookeddownintotheGasternthalwefeltprettysurethatwehadreachedthegenuinetopatlast，butitwasnotso；
thereweremuchhigheraltitudestobescaledyet。
Wewerestillinthepleasantshadeofforesttrees，wewerestillinaregionwhichwascushionedwithbeautifulmossesandaglowwiththemany-tintedlusterofinnumerablewildflowers。
Wefound，indeed，moreinterestinthewildflowersthaninanythingelse。Wegatheredaspecimenortwoofeverykindwhichwewereunacquaintedwith；sowehadsumptuousbouquets。Butoneofthechiefinterestslayinchasingtheseasonsoftheyearupthemountain，anddeterminingthembythepresenceofflowersandberrieswhichwewereacquaintedwith。Forinstance，itwastheendofAugustatthelevelofthesea；
intheKanderstegvalleyatthebaseofthepass，wefoundflowerswhichwouldnotbedueatthesea-levelfortwoorthreeweeks；higherup，weenteredOctober，andgatheredfringedgentians。Imadenonotes，andhaveforgottenthedetails，buttheconstructionofthefloralcalendarwasveryentertainingwhileitlasted。
InthehighregionswefoundrichstoreofthesplendidredflowercalledtheAlpinerose，butwedidnotfindanyexamplesoftheuglySwissfavoritecalledEdelweiss。
Itsnameseemstoindicatethatitisanobleflowerandthatitiswhite。Itmaybenobleenough，butitisnotattractive，anditisnotwhite。
Thefuzzyblossomisthecolorofbadcigarashes，andappearstobemadeofacheapqualityofgrayplush。
Ithasanobleanddistantwayofconfiningitselftothehighaltitudes，butthatisprobablyonaccountofitslooks；
itapparentlyhasnomonopolyofthoseupperaltitudes，however，fortheyaresometimesintrudeduponbysomeoftheloveliestofthevalleyfamiliesofwildflowers。
EverybodyintheAlpswearsasprigofEdelweissinhishat。
Itisthenative\'spet，andalsothetourist\'s。
Allthemorning，asweloafedalong，havingagoodtime，otherpedestrianswentstavingbyuswithvigorousstrides，andwiththeintentanddeterminedlookofmenwhowerewalkingforawager。Theseworelooseknee-breeches，longyarnstockings，andhobnailedhigh-lacedwalking-shoes。
TheyweregentlemenwhowouldgohometoEnglandorGermanyandtellhowmanymilestheyhadbeatentheguide-bookeveryday。ButIdoubtediftheyeverhadmuchrealfun，outsideofthemeremagnificentexhilarationofthetrampthroughthegreenvalleysandthebreezyheights；
fortheywerealmostalwaysalone，andeventhefinestscenerylosesincalculablywhenthereisnoonetoenjoyitwith。
Allthemorninganendlessdoubleprocessionofmule-mountedtouristsfiledpastusalongthenarrowpath——theoneprocessiongoing，theothercoming。WehadtakenagooddealoftroubletoteachourselvesthekindlyGermancustomofsalutingallstrangerswithdoffedhat，andweresolutelyclungtoit，thatmorning，althoughitkeptusbareheadedmostofthetimeandwasnotalwaysrespondedto。Stillwefoundaninterestinthething，becausewenaturallylikedtoknowwhowereEnglishandAmericansamongthepassers-by。Allcontinentalnativesrespondedofcourse；sodidsomeoftheEnglishandAmericans，but，asageneralthing，thesetworacesgavenosign。Wheneveramanorawomanshoweduscoldneglect，wespokeupconfidentlyinourowntongueandaskedforsuchinformationaswehappenedtoneed，andwealwaysgotareplyinthesamelanguage。
TheEnglishandAmericanfolkarenotlesskindlythanotherraces，theyareonlymorereserved，andthatcomesofhabitandeducation。Inonedreary，rockywaste，awayabovethelineofvegetation，wemetaprocessionoftwenty-fivemountedyoungmen，allfromAmerica。
Wegotansweringbowsenoughfromthese，ofcourse，fortheywereofanagetolearntodoinRomeasRomedoes，withoutmucheffort。
Atoneextremityofthispatchofdesolation，overhungbybareandforbiddingcragswhichhusbandeddriftsofeverlastingsnowintheirshadedcavities，wasasmallstretchofthinanddiscouragedgrass，andamanandafamilyofpigswereactuallylivinghereinsomeshanties。
Consequentlythisplacecouldbereallyreckonedas\"property\"；ithadamoneyvalue，andwasdoubtlesstaxed。
Ithinkitmusthavemarkedthelimitofrealestateinthisworld。Itwouldbehardtosetamoneyvalueuponanypieceofearththatliesbetweenthatspotandtheemptyrealmofspace。Thatmanmayclaimthedistinctionofowningtheendoftheworld，forifthereisanydefiniteendtotheworldhehascertainlyfoundit。
Fromhereforwardwemovedthroughastorm-sweptandsmilelessdesolation。Allaboutusrosegiganticmasses，crags，andrampartsofbareanddrearyrock，withnotavestigeorsemblanceofplantortreeorfloweranywhere，orglimpseofanycreaturethathadlife。
Thefrostandthetempestsofunnumberedageshadbatteredandhackedatthesecliffs，withadeathlessenergy，destroyingthempiecemeal；soalltheregionabouttheirbaseswasatumbledchaosofgreatfragmentswhichhadbeensplitoffandhurledtotheground。
Soiledandagedbanksofsnowlaycloseaboutourpath。
TheghastlydesolationoftheplacewasastremendouslycompleteasifDor\'ehadfurnishedtheworking-plansforit。Buteverynowandthen，throughthesterngatewaysarounduswecaughtaviewofsomeneighboringmajesticdome，sheathedwithglitteringice，anddisplayingitswhitepurityatanelevationcomparedtowhichourswasgrovelingandplebeian，andthisspectaclealwayschainedone\'sinterestandadmirationatonce，andmadehimforgettherewasanythinguglyintheworld。
Ihavejustsaidthattherewasnothingbutdeathanddesolationinthesehideousplaces，butIforgot。
Inthemostforlornandaridanddismaloneofall，wheretherackedandsplintereddebriswasthickest，wheretheancientpatchesofsnowlayagainsttheverypath，wherethewindsblewbitterestandthegeneralaspectwasmournfulestanddreariest，andfurthestfromanysuggestionofcheerorhope，Ifoundasolitaryweeforget-me-notflourishingaway，notadroopaboutitanywhere，butholdingitsbrightbluestarupwiththeprettiestandgallantestairintheworld，theonlyhappyspirit，theonlysmilingthing，inallthatgrislydesert。
Sheseemedtosay，\"Cheerup!——aslongaswearehere，letusmakethebestofit。\"Ijudgedshehadearnedarighttoamorehospitableplace；soIpluckedherupandsenthertoAmericatoafriendwhowouldrespectherforthefightshehadmade，allbyhersmallself，tomakeawholevastdespondentAlpinedesolationstopbreakingitsheartovertheunalterable，andholdupitsheadandlookatthebrightsideofthingsforonce。
WestoppedforanooningatastronglybuiltlittleinncalledtheSchwarenbach。Itsitsinalonelyspotamongthepeaks，whereitissweptbythetrailingfringesofthecloud-rack，andisrainedon，andsnowedon，andpeltedandpersecutedbythestorms，nearlyeverydayofitslife。ItwastheonlyhabitationinthewholeGemmiPass。
Closeathand，now，wasachanceforablood-curdlingAlpineadventure。CloseathandwasthesnowymassoftheGreatAltelscoolingitstopknotintheskyanddaringustoanascent。Iwasfiredwiththeidea，andimmediatelymadeupmymindtoprocurethenecessaryguides，ropes，etc。，andundertakeit。IinstructedHarristogotothelandlordoftheinnandsethimaboutourpreparations。Meantime，Iwentdiligentlytoworktoreadupandfindoutwhatthismuch-talked-ofmountain-climbingwaslike，andhowoneshouldgoaboutit——forinthesemattersIwasignorant。IopenedMr。Hinchliff\'sSUMMERMONTHSAMONGTHEALPSpublished1857，andselectedhisaccountofhisascentofMonteRosa。
Itbegan:
\"Itisverydifficulttofreethemindfromexcitementontheeveningbeforeagrandexpedition——\"
IsawthatIwastoocalm；soIwalkedtheroomawhileandworkedmyselfintoahighexcitement；butthebook\'snextremark——thattheadventurermustgetupattwointhemorning——cameasnearasanythingtoflattingitalloutagain。However，Ireinforcedit，andreadon，abouthowMr。Hinchliffdressedbycandle-lightandwas\"soondownamongtheguides，whowerebustlingaboutinthepassage，packingprovisions，andmakingeverypreparationforthestart\"；
andhowheglancedoutintothecoldclearnightandsawthat——
\"Thewholeskywasblazingwithstars，largerandbrighterthantheyappearthroughthedenseatmospherebreathedbyinhabitantsofthelowerpartsoftheearth。
Theyseemedactuallysuspendedfromthedarkvaultofheaven，andtheirgentlelightshedafairylikegleamoverthesnow-fieldsaroundthefootoftheMatterhorn，whichraiseditsstupendouspinnacleonhigh，penetratingtotheheartoftheGreatBear，andcrowningitselfwithadiademofhismagnificentstars。Notasounddisturbedthedeeptranquillityofthenight，exceptthedistantroarofstreamswhichrushfromthehighplateauoftheSt。Theoduleglacier，andfallheadlongoverprecipitousrockstilltheylosethemselvesinthemazesoftheGornerglacier。\"
Hetookhishottoastandcoffee，andthenabouthalfpastthreehiscaravanoftenmenfiledawayfromtheRiffelHotel，andbeganthesteepclimb。
Athalfpastfivehehappenedtoturnaround，and\"beheldthegloriousspectacleoftheMatterhorn，justtouchedbytherosy-fingeredmorning，andlookinglikeahugepyramidoffirerisingoutofthebarrenoceanoficeandrockaroundit。\"ThentheBreithornandtheDentBlanchecaughttheradiantglow；but\"theinterveningmassofMonteRosamadeitnecessaryforustoclimbmanylonghoursbeforewecouldhopetoseethesunhimself，yetthewholeairsoongrewwarmerafterthesplendidbirthoftheday。\"
HegazedattheloftycrownofMonteRosaandthewastesofsnowthatguardeditssteepapproaches，andthechiefguidedeliveredtheopinionthatnomancouldconquertheirawfulheightsandputhisfootuponthatsummit。
Buttheadventurersmovedsteadilyon，nevertheless。
Theytoiledup，andup，andstillup；theypassedtheGrandPlateau；thentoiledupasteepshoulderofthemountain，clinginglikefliestoitsruggedface；
andnowtheywereconfrontedbyatremendouswallfromwhichgreatblocksoficeandsnowwereevidentlyinthehabitoffalling。Theyturnedasidetoskirtthiswall，andgraduallyascendeduntiltheirwaywasbarredbya\"mazeofgiganticsnowcrevices，\"——sotheyturnedasideagain，and\"beganalongclimbofsufficientsteepnesstomakeazigzagcoursenecessary。\"
Fatiguecompelledthemtohaltfrequently，foramomentortwo。Atoneofthesehaltssomebodycalledout，\"LookatMontBlanc!\"and\"wewereatoncemadeawareoftheverygreatheightwehadattainedbyactuallyseeingthemonarchoftheAlpsandhisattendantsatellitesrightoverthetopoftheBreithorn，itselfatleast14，000feethigh!\"
Thesepeoplemovedinsinglefile，andwerealltiedtoastrongrope，atregulardistancesapart，sothatifoneofthemslippedonthosegiddyheights，theotherscouldbracethemselvesontheiralpenstocksandsavehimfromdartingintothevalley，thousandsoffeetbelow。
Byandbytheycametoanice-coatedridgewhichwastiltedupatasharpangle，andhadaprecipiceononesideofit。
Theyhadtoclimbthis，sotheguideintheleadcutstepsintheicewithhishatchet，andasfastashetookhistoesoutofoneoftheseslightholes，thetoesofthemanbehindhimoccupiedit。
\"Slowlyandsteadilywekeptonourwayoverthisdangerouspartoftheascent，andIdaresayitwasfortunateforsomeofusthatattentionwasdistractedfromtheheadbytheparamountnecessityoflookingafterthefeet；
FOR，WHILEONTHELEFTTHEINCLINEOFICEWASSOSTEEP
THATITWOULDBEIMPOSSIBLEFORANYMANTOSAVEHIMSELF
INCASEOFASLIP，UNLESSTHEOTHERSCOULDHOLDHIMUP，ONTHERIGHTWEMIGHTDROPAPEBBLEFROMTHEHANDOVER
PRECIPICESOFUNKNOWNEXTENTDOWNUPONTHETREMENDOUS
GLACIERBELOW。
\"Greatcaution，therefore，wasabsolutelynecessary，andinthisexposedsituationwewereattackedbyallthefuryofthatgrandenemyofaspirantstoMonteRosa——asevereandbitterlycoldwindfromthenorth。
Thefinepowderysnowwasdrivenpastusintheclouds，penetratingtheintersticesofourclothes，andthepiecesoficewhichflewfromtheblowsofPeter\'saxwerewhiskedintotheair，andthendashedovertheprecipice。
Wehadquiteenoughtodotopreventourselvesfrombeingservedinthesameruthlessfashion，andnowandthen，inthemoreviolentgustsofwind，weregladtostickouralpenstocksintotheiceandholdonhard。\"
Havingsurmountedthisperiloussteep，theysatdownandtookabriefrestwiththeirbacksagainstashelteringrockandtheirheelsdanglingoverabottomlessabyss；
thentheyclimbedtothebaseofanotherridge——amoredifficultanddangerousonestill:
\"Thewholeoftheridgewasexceedinglynarrow，andthefalloneachsidedesperatelysteep，buttheiceinsomeoftheseintervalsbetweenthemassesofrockassumedtheformofameresharpedge，almostlikeaknife；
theseplaces，thoughnotmorethanthreeorfourshortpacesinlength，lookeduncommonlyawkward；but，liketheswordleadingtruebelieverstothegatesofParadise，theymustneedsbepassedbeforewecouldattaintothesummitofourambition。Thesewereinoneortwoplacessonarrow，thatinsteppingoverthemwithtoeswellturnedoutforgreatersecurity，ONEENDOFTHE
FOOTPROJECTEDOVERTHEAWFULPRECIPICEONTHERIGHT，WHILETHEOTHERWASONTHEBEGINNINGOFTHEICESLOPEON
THELEFT，WHICHWASSCARCELYLESSSTEEPTHANTHEROCKS。
OntheseoccasionsPeterwouldtakemyhand，andeachofusstretchingasfaraswecould，hewasthusenabledtogetafirmfootingtwopacesorrathermorefromme，whenceaspringwouldprobablybringhimtotherockontheotherside；then，turningaround，hecalledtometocome，and，takingacoupleofstepscarefully，Iwasmetatthethirdbyhisoutstretchedhandreadytoclaspmine，andinamomentstoodbyhisside。
Theothersfollowedinmuchthesamefashion。Oncemyrightfootslippedonthesidetowardtheprecipice，butIthrewoutmyleftarminamomentsothatitcaughttheicyedgeundermyarmpitasIfell，andsupportedmeconsiderably；atthesameinstantIcastmyeyesdownthesideonwhichIhadslipped，andcontrivedtoplantmyrightfootonapieceofrockaslargeasacricket-ball，whichchancedtoprotrudethroughtheice，ontheveryedgeoftheprecipice。Beingthusanchoredforeandaft，asitwere，IbelieveIcouldeasilyhaverecoveredmyself，evenifIhadbeenalone，thoughitmustbeconfessedthesituationwouldhavebeenanawfulone；
asitwas，however，ajerkfromPetersettledthematterverysoon，andIwasonmylegsallrightinaninstant。
Theropeisanimmensehelpinplacesofthiskind。\"
Nowtheyarrivedatthebaseofagreatknobordomeveneeredwithiceandpowderedwithsnow——theutmost，summit，thelastbitofsoliditybetweenthemandthehollowvaultofheaven。Theysettoworkwiththeirhatchets，andweresooncreeping，insectlike，upitssurface，withtheirheelsprojectingoverthethinnestkindofnothingness，thickenedupalittlewithafewwanderingshredsandfilmsofcloudmovinginalazyprocessionfarbelow。
Presently，oneman\'stoe-holdbrokeandhefell!Therehedangledinmid-airattheendoftherope，likeaspider，tillhisfriendsabovehauledhimintoplaceagain。
Alittlebitlater，thepartystoodupontheweepedestaloftheverysummit，inadrivingwind，andlookedoutuponthevastgreenexpansesofItalyandashorelessoceanofbillowyAlps。
WhenIhadreadthusfar，Harrisbrokeintotheroominanobleexcitementandsaidtheropesandtheguidesweresecured，andaskedifIwasready。IsaidI
believedIwouldn\'tascendtheAltelsthistime。
IsaidAlp-climbingwasadifferentthingfromwhatIhadsupposeditwas，andsoIjudgedwehadbetterstudyitspointsalittlemorebeforewewentdefinitelyintoit。
ButItoldhimtoretaintheguidesandorderthemtofollowustoZermatt，becauseImeanttousethemthere。
IsaidIcouldfeelthespiritofadventurebeginningtostirinme，andwassurethatthefellfascinationofAlp-climbingwouldsoonbeuponme。Isaidhecouldmakeuphismindtoitthatwewoulddoadeedbeforewewereaweekolderwhichwouldmakethehairofthetimidcurlwithfright。
ThismadeHarrishappy，andfilledhimwithambitiousanticipations。HewentatoncetotelltheguidestofollowustoZermattandbringalltheirparaphernaliawiththem。
CHAPTERXXXV
[SwindlingtheCoroner]
Agreatandpricelessthingisanewinterest!Howittakespossessionofaman!howitclingstohim，howitrideshim!IstrodeonwardfromtheSchwarenbackhostelryachangedman，areorganizedpersonality。
Iwalkedintoanewworld，Isawwithneweyes。
Ihadbeenlookingaloftatthegiantshow-peaksonlyasthingstobeworshipedfortheirgrandeurandmagnitude，andtheirunspeakablegraceofform；Ilookedupatthemnow，asalsothingstobeconqueredandclimbed。
Mysenseoftheirgrandeurandtheirnoblebeautywasneitherlostnorimpaired；Ihadgainedanewinterestinthemountainswithoutlosingtheoldones。
Ifollowedthesteeplinesup，inchbyinch，withmyeye，andnotedthepossibilityorimpossibilityoffollowingthemwithmyfeet。WhenIsawashininghelmetoficeprojectingabovetheclouds，ItriedtoimagineIsawfilesofblackspeckstoilingupitropedtogetherwithagossamerthread。
WeskirtedthelonelylittlelakecalledtheDaubensee，andpresentlypassedclosebyaglacierontheright——
athinglikeagreatriverfrozensolidinitsflowandbrokensquareofflikeawallatitsmouth。
Ihadneverbeensonearaglacierbefore。
Herewecameuponanewboardshanty，andfoundsomemenengagedinbuildingastonehouse；sotheSchwarenbackwassoontohavearival。Weboughtabottleorsoofbeerhere；
atanyratetheycalleditbeer，butIknewbythepricethatitwasdissolvedjewelry，andIperceivedbythetastethatdissolvedjewelryisnotgoodstufftodrink。
Weweresurroundedbyahideousdesolation。Westeppedforwardtoasortofjumping-offplace，andwereconfrontedbyastartlingcontrast:weseemedtolookdownintofairyland。
Twoorthreethousandfeetbelowuswasabrightgreenlevel，withaprettytowninitsmidst，andasilverystreamwindingamongthemeadows；thecharmingspotwaswalledinonallsidesbygiganticprecipicesclothedwithpines；
andoverthepines，outofthesofteneddistances，rosethesnowydomesandpeaksoftheMonteRosaregion。
Howexquisitelygreenandbeautifulthatlittlevalleydowntherewas!Thedistancewasnotgreatenoughtoobliteratedetails，itonlymadethemlittle，andmellow，anddainty，likelandscapesandtownsseenthroughthewrongendofaspy-glass。
Rightunderusanarrowledgeroseupoutofthevalley，withagreen，slanting，bench-shapedtop，andgroupedaboutuponthisgreen-baizebenchwerealotofblackandwhitesheepwhichlookedmerelylikeoversizedworms。
Thebenchseemedliftedwellupintoourneighborhood，butthatwasadeception——itwasalongwaydowntoit。
Webeganourdescent，now，bythemostremarkableroadI
haveeverseen。Itwounditcorkscrewcurvesdownthefaceofthecolossalprecipice——anarrowway，withalwaysthesolidrockwallatoneelbow，andperpendicularnothingnessattheother。Wemetaneverlastingprocessionofguides，porters，mules，litters，andtouristsclimbingupthissteepandmuddypath，andtherewasnoroomtosparewhenyouhadtopassatolerablyfatmule。
Ialwaystooktheinside，whenIheardorsawthemulecoming，andflattenedmyselfagainstthewall。
Ipreferredtheinside，ofcourse，butIshouldhavehadtotakeitanyhow，becausethemulepreferstheoutside。
Amule\'spreference——onaprecipice——isathingtoberespected。Well，hischoiceisalwaystheoutside。
Hislifeismostlydevotedtocarryingbulkypanniersandpackageswhichrestagainsthisbody——thereforeheishabituatedtotakingtheoutsideedgeofmountainpaths，tokeephisbundlesfromrubbingagainstrocksorbanksontheother。Whenhegoesintothepassengerbusinessheabsurdlyclingstohisoldhabit，andkeepsonelegofhispassengeralwaysdanglingoverthegreatdeepsofthelowerworldwhilethatpassenger\'sheartisinthehighlands，sotospeak。MorethanonceIsawamule\'shindfootcaveovertheouteredgeandsendearthandrubbishintothebottomabyss；andInoticedthatupontheseoccasionstherider，whethermaleorfemale，lookedtolerablyunwell。
Therewasoneplacewhereaneighteen-inchbreadthoflightmasonryhadbeenaddedtothevergeofthepath，andastherewasaverysharpturnhere，apaneloffencinghadbeensetupthereatsometime，asaprotection。
Thispanelwasoldandgrayandfeeble，andthelightmasonryhadbeenloosenedbyrecentrains。AyoungAmericangirlcamealongonamule，andinmakingtheturnthemule\'shindfootcavedalltheloosemasonryandoneofthefence-postsoverboard；themulegaveaviolentlurchinboardtosavehimself，andsucceededintheeffort，butthatgirlturnedaswhiteasthesnowsofMontBlancforamoment。
Thepathwassimplyagroovecutintothefaceoftheprecipice；therewasafour-footbreadthofsolidrockunderthetraveler，andfour-footbreadthofsolidrockjustabovehishead，liketheroofofanarrowporch；
hecouldlookoutfromthisgalleryandseeasheersummitlessandbottomlesswallofrockbeforehim，acrossagorgeorcrackabiscuit\'stossinwidth——
buthecouldnotseethebottomofhisownprecipiceunlesshelaydownandprojectedhisnoseovertheedge。
Ididnotdothis，becauseIdidnotwishtosoilmyclothes。
Everyfewhundredyards，atparticularlybadplaces，onecameacrossapanelorsoofplankfencing；buttheywerealwaysoldandweak，andtheygenerallyleanedoutoverthechasmanddidnotmakeanyrashpromisestoholduppeoplewhomightneedsupport。Therewasoneofthesepanelswhichhadonlyitsupperboardleft；
apedestrianizingEnglishyouthcametearingdownthepath，wasseizedwithanimpulsetolookovertheprecipice，andwithoutaninstant\'sthoughthethrewhisweightuponthatcrazyboard。Itbentoutwardafoot!Inevermadeagaspbeforethatcamesonearsuffocatingme。
TheEnglishyouth\'sfacesimplyshowedalivelysurprise，butnothingmore。Hewentswingingalongvalleywardagain，asifhedidnotknowhehadjustswindledacoronerbytheclosestkindofashave。