WhileIwasfeelingthesethings,Iwasgroping,withoutknowingit,towardanunderstandingofwhatthespelliswhichpeoplefindintheAlps,andinnoothermountains——thatstrange,deep,namelessinfluence,which,oncefelt,cannotbeforgotten——oncefelt,leavesalwaysbehinditarestlesslongingtofeelitagain——alongingwhichislikehomesickness;agrieving,hauntingyearningwhichwillplead,implore,andpersecutetillithasitswill。
Imetdozensofpeople,imaginativeandunimaginative,cultivatedanduncultivated,whohadcomefromfarcountriesandroamedthroughtheSwissAlpsyearafteryear——theycouldnotexplainwhy。Theyhadcomefirst,theysaid,outofidlecuriosity,becauseeverybodytalkedaboutit;
theyhadcomesincebecausetheycouldnothelpit,andtheyshouldkeeponcoming,whiletheylived,forthesamereason;
theyhadtriedtobreaktheirchainsandstayaway,butitwasfutile;now,theyhadnodesiretobreakthem。
Otherscamenearerformulatingwhattheyfelt;theysaidtheycouldfindperfectrestandpeacenowhereelsewhentheyweretroubled:allfretsandworriesandchafingssanktosleepinthepresenceofthebenignantserenityoftheAlps;
theGreatSpiritoftheMountainbreathedhisownpeaceupontheirhurtmindsandsorehearts,andhealedthem;
theycouldnotthinkbasethoughtsordomeanandsordidthingshere,beforethevisiblethroneofGod。
DowntheroadapiecewasaKursaal——whateverthatmaybe——
andwejoinedthehumantidetoseewhatsortofenjoymentitmightafford。Itwastheusualopen-airconcert,inanornamentalgarden,withwines,beer,milk,whey,grapes,etc——thewheyandthegrapesbeingnecessariesoflifetocertaininvalidswhomphysicianscannotrepair,andwhoonlycontinuetoexistbythegraceofwheyorgrapes。Oneofthesedepartedspiritstoldme,inasadandlifelessway,thatthereisnowayforhimtolivebutbywhey,anddearly,dearlylovedwhey,hedidn\'tknowwheyhedid,buthedid。Aftermakingthispunhedied——thatisthewheyitservedhim。
Someotherremains,preservedfromdecompositionbythegrapesystem,toldmethatthegrapeswereofapeculiarbreed,highlymedicinalintheirnature,andthattheywerecountedoutandadministeredbythegrape-doctorsasmethodicallyasiftheywerepills。
Thenewpatient,ifveryfeeble,beganwithonegrapebeforebreakfast,tookthreeduringbreakfast,acouplebetweenmeals,fiveatluncheon,threeintheafternoon,sevenatdinner,fourforsupper,andpartofagrapejustbeforegoingtobed,bywayofageneralregulator。
Thequantitywasgraduallyandregularlyincreased,accordingtotheneedsandcapacitiesofthepatient,untilbyandbyyouwouldfindhimdisposingofhisonegrapepersecondallthedaylong,andhisregularbarrelperday。
Hesaidthatmencuredinthisway,andenabledtodiscardthegrapesystem,neverafterwardgotoverthehabitoftalkingasiftheyweredictatingtoaslowamanuensis,becausetheyalwaysmadeapausebetweeneachtwowordswhiletheysuckedthesubstanceoutofanimaginarygrape。
Hesaidtheseweretediouspeopletotalkwith。
Hesaidthatmenwhohadbeencuredbytheotherprocesswereeasilydistinguishedfromtherestofmankindbecausetheyalwaystiltedtheirheadsback,betweeneverytwowords,andswallowedaswigofimaginarywhey。
Hesaiditwasanimpressivethingtoobservetwomen,whohadbeencuredbythetwoprocesses,engagedinconversation——saidtheirpausesandaccompanyingmovementsweresocontinuousandregularthatastrangerwouldthinkhimselfinthepresenceofacoupleofautomaticmachines。
Onefindsoutagreatmanywonderfulthings,bytraveling,ifhestumblesupontherightperson。
IdidnotremainlongattheKursaal;themusicwasgoodenough,butitseemedrathertameafterthecycloneofthatArkansawexpert。Besides,myadventurousspirithadconceivedaformidableenterprise——nothinglessthanatripfromInterlaken,bytheGemmiandVisp,cleartoZermatt,onfoot!Soitwasnecessarytoplanthedetails,andgetreadyforanearlystart。ThecourierthiswasnottheoneIhavejustbeenspeakingof
thoughtthattheportierofthehotelwouldbeabletotellushowtofindourway。Andsoitturnedout。
Heshowedusthewholething,onarelief-map,andwecouldseeourroute,withallitselevationsanddepressions,itsvillagesanditsrivers,asclearlyasifweweresailingoveritinaballoon。Arelief-mapisagreatthing。
Theportieralsowrotedowneachday\'sjourneyandthenightlyhotelonapieceofpaper,andmadeourcoursesoplainthatweshouldneverbeabletogetlostwithouthigh-pricedoutsidehelp。
IputthecourierinthecareofagentlemanwhowasgoingtoLausanne,andthenwewenttobed,afterlayingoutthewalking-costumesandputtingthemintoconditionforinstantoccupationinthemorning。
However,whenwecamedowntobreakfastat8A。M。,itlookedsomuchlikerainthatIhiredatwo-horsetop-buggyforthefirstthirdofthejourney。FortwoorthreehourswejoggedalongthelevelroadwhichskirtsthebeautifullakeofThun,withadimanddreamlikepictureofwateryexpansesandspectralAlpineformsalwaysbeforeus,veiledinamellowingmist。Thenasteadydownpoursetin,andhideverythingbutthenearestobjects。
Wekepttherainoutofourfaceswithumbrellas,andawayfromourbodieswiththeleatherapronofthebuggy;
butthedriversatunshelteredandplacidlysoakedtheweatherinandseemedtolikeit。Wehadtheroadtoourselves,andIneverhadapleasanterexcursion。
TheweatherbegantoclearwhileweweredrivingupavalleycalledtheKienthal,andpresentlyavastblackcloud-bankinfrontofusdissolvedawayanduncurtainedthegrandproportionsandthesoaringloftinessoftheBlumisAlp。Itwasasortofbreath-takingsurprise;
forwehadnotsupposedtherewasanythingbehindthatlow-hungblanketofsablecloudbutlevelvalley。
Whatwehadbeenmistakingforfleetingglimpsesofskyawayaloftthere,werereallypatchesoftheBlumis\'ssnowycrestcaughtthroughshreddedrentsinthedriftingpallofvapor。
WedinedintheinnatFrutigen,andourdriveroughttohavedinedthere,too,buthewouldnothavehadtimetodineandgetdrunkboth,sohegavehismindtomakingamasterpieceofthelatter,andsucceeded。
AGermangentlemanandhistwoyoung-ladydaughtershadbeentakingtheirnooningattheinn,andwhentheyleft,justaheadofus,itwasplainthattheirdriverwasasdrunkasours,andashappyandgood-natured,too,whichwassayingagooddeal。Theserascalsoverflowedwithattentionsandinformationfortheirguests,andwithbrotherlyloveforeachother。Theytiedtheirreins,andtookofftheircoatsandhats,sothattheymightbeabletogiveunencumberedattentiontoconversationandtothegesturesnecessaryforitsillustration。
Theroadwassmooth;itledupandoveranddownacontinualsuccessionofhills;butitwasnarrow,thehorseswereusedtoit,andcouldnotwellgetoutofitanyhow;
sowhyshouldn\'tthedriversentertainthemselvesandus?
Thenosesofourhorsesprojectedsociablyintotherearoftheforwardcarriage,andaswetoiledupthelonghillsourdriverstoodupandtalkedtohisfriend,andhisfriendstoodupandtalkedbacktohim,withhisreartothescenery。Whenthetopwasreachedandwewentflyingdowntheotherside,therewasnochangeintheprogram。Icarryinmymemoryyetthepictureofthatforwarddriver,onhiskneesonhishighseat,restinghiselbowsonitsback,andbeamingdownonhispassengers,withhappyeye,andflyinghair,andjollyredface,andofferinghiscardtotheoldGermangentlemanwhilehepraisedhishackandhorses,andbothteamswerewhizzingdownalonghillwithnobodyinapositiontotellwhetherwewereboundtodestructionoranundeservedsafety。
Towardsunsetweenteredabeautifulgreenvalleydottedwithchalets,acozylittledomainhiddenawayfromthebusyworldinacloisterednookamonggiantprecipicestoppedwithsnowypeaksthatseemedtofloatlikeislandsabovethecurlingsurfoftheseaofvaporthatseveredthemfromthelowerworld。Downfromvagueandvaporousheights,littleruffledzigzagmilkycurrentscamecrawling,andfoundtheirwaytothevergeofoneofthosetremendousoverhangingwalls,whencetheyplunged,ashaftofsilver,shiveredtoatomsinmid-descentandturnedtoanairpuffofluminousdust。Hereandthere,ingrooveddepressionsamongthesnowydesolationsoftheupperaltitudes,oneglimpsedtheextremityofaglacier,withitssea-greenandhoneycombedbattlementsofice。
Upthevalley,underadizzyprecipice,nestledthevillageofKandersteg,ourhalting-placeforthenight。
Weweresoonthere,andhousedinthehotel。Butthewaningdayhadsuchaninvitinginfluencethatwedidnotremainhousedmanymoments,butstruckoutandfollowedaroaringtorrentofice-wateruptoitsfarsourceinasortoflittlegrass-carpetedparlor,walledinallaroundbyvastprecipicesandoverlookedbyclusteringsummitsofice。
Thiswasthesnuggestlittlecroquet-groundimaginable;
itwasperfectlylevel,andnotmorethanamilelongbyhalfamilewide。Thewallsarounditweresogigantic,andeverythingaboutitwasonsomightyascalethatitwasbelittled,bycontrast,towhatIhavelikeneditto——acozyandcarpetedparlor。ItwassohighabovetheKanderstegvalleythattherewasnothingbetweenitandthesnowy-peaks。Ihadneverbeeninsuchintimaterelationswiththehighaltitudesbefore;thesnow-peakshadalwaysbeenremoteandunapproachablegrandeurs,hitherto,butnowwewerehob-a-nob——ifonemayusesuchaseeminglyirreverentexpressionaboutcreationssoaugustasthese。
Wecouldseethestreamswhichfedthetorrentwehadfollowedissuingfromunderthegreenishrampartsofglaciers;buttwoorthreeofthese,insteadofflowingovertheprecipices,sankdownintotherockandspranginbigjetsoutofholesinthemid-faceofthewalls。
ThegreennookwhichIhavebeendescribingiscalledtheGasternthal。Theglacierstreamsgatherandflowthroughitinabroadandrushingbrooktoanarrowcleftbetweenloftyprecipices;heretherushingbrookbecomesamadtorrentandgoesboomingandthunderingdowntowardKandersteg,lashingandthrashingitswayoverandamongmonsterboulders,andhurlingchancerootsandlogsaboutlikestraws。
Therewasnolackofcascadesalongthisroute。
Thepathbythesideofthetorrentwassonarrowthatonehadtolooksharp,whenheheardacow-bell,andhuntforaplacethatwaswideenoughtoaccommodateacowandaChristiansidebyside,andsuchplaceswerenotalwaystobehadataninstant\'snotice。Thecowswearchurch-bells,andthatisagoodideainthecows,forwherethattorrentis,youcouldn\'thearanordinarycow-bellanyfurtherthanyoucouldhearthetickingofawatch。
Ineededexercise,soIemployedmyagentinsettingstrandedlogsanddeadtreesadrift,andIsatonaboulderandwatchedthemgowhirlingandleapingheadoverheelsdowntheboilingtorrent。Itwasawonderfullyexhilaratingspectacle。WhenIhadhadenoughexercise,Imadetheagenttakesome,byrunningaracewithoneofthoselogs。Imadeatriflebybettingonthelog。
AfterdinnerwehadawalkupanddowntheKanderstegvalley,inthesoftgloaming,withthespectacleofthedyinglightsofdayplayingaboutthecrestsandpinnaclesofthestillandsolemnupperrealmforcontrast,andtextfortalk。
Therewerenosoundsbutthedulledcomplainingofthetorrentandtheoccasionaltinklingofadistantbell。
Thespiritoftheplacewasasenseofdeep,pervadingpeace;
onemightdreamhislifetranquillyawaythere,andnotmissitorminditwhenitwasgone。
Thesummerdepartedwiththesun,andwintercamewiththestars。Itgrewtobeabitternightinthatlittlehotel,backedupagainstaprecipicethathadnovisibletoptoit,butwekeptwarm,andwokeintimeinthemorningtofindthateverybodyelsehadleftforGemmithreehoursbefore——
soourlittleplanofhelpingthatGermanfamilyprincipallytheoldmanoverthepass,wasablockedgenerosity。
CHAPTERXXXIV
[TheWorld\'sHighestPigFarm]
Wehiredtheonlyguideleft,toleadusonourway。
Hewasoverseventy,buthecouldhavegivenmenine-tenthsofhisstrengthandstillhadallhisageentitledhimto。
Heshoulderedoursatchels,overcoats,andalpenstocks,andwesetoutupthesteeppath。Itwashotwork。
Theoldmansoonbeggedustohandoverourcoatsandwaistcoatstohimtocarry,too,andwedidit;
onecouldnotrefusesolittleathingtoapooroldmanlikethat;heshouldhavehadthemifhehadbeenahundredandfifty。
Whenwebeganthatascent,wecouldseeamicroscopicchaletperchedawayupagainstheavenonwhatseemedtobethehighestmountainnearus。Itwasonourright,acrossthenarrowheadofthevalley。Butwhenwegotupabreastitonitsownlevel,mountainsweretoweringhighaboveoneveryhand,andwesawthatitsaltitudewasjustaboutthatofthelittleGasternthalwhichwehadvisitedtheeveningbefore。Stillitseemedalongwayupintheair,inthatwasteandlonelywildernessofrocks。
Ithadanunfencedgrass-plotinfrontofitwhichseemedaboutasbigasabilliard-table,andthisgrass-plotslantedsosharplydownward,andwassobrief,andendedsoexceedinglysoonatthevergeoftheabsoluteprecipice,thatitwasashudderythingtothinkofaperson\'sventuringtotrusthisfootonaninclinesosituatedatall。
Supposeamansteppedonanorangepeelinthatyard;
therewouldbenothingforhimtoseize;nothingcouldkeephimfromrolling;fiverevolutionswouldbringhimtotheedge,andoverhewouldgo。Whatafrightfuldistancehewouldfall!——forthereareveryfewbirdsthatflyashighashisstarting-point。Hewouldstrikeandbounce,twoorthreetimes,onhiswaydown,butthiswouldbenoadvantagetohim。Iwouldassoontakinganairingontheslantofarainbowasinsuchafrontyard。
Iwouldrather,infact,forthedistancedownwouldbeaboutthesame,anditispleasantertoslidethantobounce。
Icouldnotseehowthepeasantsgotuptothatchalet——
theregionseemedtoosteepforanythingbutaballoon。
Aswestrolledon,climbinguphigherandhigher,wewerecontinuallybringingneighboringpeaksintoviewandloftyprominencewhichhadbeenhiddenbehindlowerpeaksbefore;
sobyandby,whilestandingbeforeagroupofthesegiants,welookedaroundforthechaletagain;thereitwas,awaydownbelowus,apparentlyonaninconspicuousridgeinthevalley!Itwasasfarbelowus,now,asithadbeenaboveuswhenwewerebeginningtheascent。
Afterawhilethepathledusalongarailedprecipice,andwelookedover——farbeneathuswasthesnugparloragain,thelittleGasternthal,withitswaterjetsspoutingfromthefaceofitsrockwalls。Wecouldhavedroppedastoneintoit。Wehadbeenfindingthetopoftheworldallalong——andalwaysfindingastillhighertopstealingintoviewinadisappointingwayjustahead;whenwelookeddownintotheGasternthalwefeltprettysurethatwehadreachedthegenuinetopatlast,butitwasnotso;
thereweremuchhigheraltitudestobescaledyet。
Wewerestillinthepleasantshadeofforesttrees,wewerestillinaregionwhichwascushionedwithbeautifulmossesandaglowwiththemany-tintedlusterofinnumerablewildflowers。
Wefound,indeed,moreinterestinthewildflowersthaninanythingelse。Wegatheredaspecimenortwoofeverykindwhichwewereunacquaintedwith;sowehadsumptuousbouquets。Butoneofthechiefinterestslayinchasingtheseasonsoftheyearupthemountain,anddeterminingthembythepresenceofflowersandberrieswhichwewereacquaintedwith。Forinstance,itwastheendofAugustatthelevelofthesea;
intheKanderstegvalleyatthebaseofthepass,wefoundflowerswhichwouldnotbedueatthesea-levelfortwoorthreeweeks;higherup,weenteredOctober,andgatheredfringedgentians。Imadenonotes,andhaveforgottenthedetails,buttheconstructionofthefloralcalendarwasveryentertainingwhileitlasted。
InthehighregionswefoundrichstoreofthesplendidredflowercalledtheAlpinerose,butwedidnotfindanyexamplesoftheuglySwissfavoritecalledEdelweiss。
Itsnameseemstoindicatethatitisanobleflowerandthatitiswhite。Itmaybenobleenough,butitisnotattractive,anditisnotwhite。
Thefuzzyblossomisthecolorofbadcigarashes,andappearstobemadeofacheapqualityofgrayplush。
Ithasanobleanddistantwayofconfiningitselftothehighaltitudes,butthatisprobablyonaccountofitslooks;
itapparentlyhasnomonopolyofthoseupperaltitudes,however,fortheyaresometimesintrudeduponbysomeoftheloveliestofthevalleyfamiliesofwildflowers。
EverybodyintheAlpswearsasprigofEdelweissinhishat。
Itisthenative\'spet,andalsothetourist\'s。
Allthemorning,asweloafedalong,havingagoodtime,otherpedestrianswentstavingbyuswithvigorousstrides,andwiththeintentanddeterminedlookofmenwhowerewalkingforawager。Theseworelooseknee-breeches,longyarnstockings,andhobnailedhigh-lacedwalking-shoes。
TheyweregentlemenwhowouldgohometoEnglandorGermanyandtellhowmanymilestheyhadbeatentheguide-bookeveryday。ButIdoubtediftheyeverhadmuchrealfun,outsideofthemeremagnificentexhilarationofthetrampthroughthegreenvalleysandthebreezyheights;
fortheywerealmostalwaysalone,andeventhefinestscenerylosesincalculablywhenthereisnoonetoenjoyitwith。
Allthemorninganendlessdoubleprocessionofmule-mountedtouristsfiledpastusalongthenarrowpath——theoneprocessiongoing,theothercoming。WehadtakenagooddealoftroubletoteachourselvesthekindlyGermancustomofsalutingallstrangerswithdoffedhat,andweresolutelyclungtoit,thatmorning,althoughitkeptusbareheadedmostofthetimeandwasnotalwaysrespondedto。Stillwefoundaninterestinthething,becausewenaturallylikedtoknowwhowereEnglishandAmericansamongthepassers-by。Allcontinentalnativesrespondedofcourse;sodidsomeoftheEnglishandAmericans,but,asageneralthing,thesetworacesgavenosign。Wheneveramanorawomanshoweduscoldneglect,wespokeupconfidentlyinourowntongueandaskedforsuchinformationaswehappenedtoneed,andwealwaysgotareplyinthesamelanguage。
TheEnglishandAmericanfolkarenotlesskindlythanotherraces,theyareonlymorereserved,andthatcomesofhabitandeducation。Inonedreary,rockywaste,awayabovethelineofvegetation,wemetaprocessionoftwenty-fivemountedyoungmen,allfromAmerica。
Wegotansweringbowsenoughfromthese,ofcourse,fortheywereofanagetolearntodoinRomeasRomedoes,withoutmucheffort。
Atoneextremityofthispatchofdesolation,overhungbybareandforbiddingcragswhichhusbandeddriftsofeverlastingsnowintheirshadedcavities,wasasmallstretchofthinanddiscouragedgrass,andamanandafamilyofpigswereactuallylivinghereinsomeshanties。
Consequentlythisplacecouldbereallyreckonedas\"property\";ithadamoneyvalue,andwasdoubtlesstaxed。
Ithinkitmusthavemarkedthelimitofrealestateinthisworld。Itwouldbehardtosetamoneyvalueuponanypieceofearththatliesbetweenthatspotandtheemptyrealmofspace。Thatmanmayclaimthedistinctionofowningtheendoftheworld,forifthereisanydefiniteendtotheworldhehascertainlyfoundit。
Fromhereforwardwemovedthroughastorm-sweptandsmilelessdesolation。Allaboutusrosegiganticmasses,crags,andrampartsofbareanddrearyrock,withnotavestigeorsemblanceofplantortreeorfloweranywhere,orglimpseofanycreaturethathadlife。
Thefrostandthetempestsofunnumberedageshadbatteredandhackedatthesecliffs,withadeathlessenergy,destroyingthempiecemeal;soalltheregionabouttheirbaseswasatumbledchaosofgreatfragmentswhichhadbeensplitoffandhurledtotheground。
Soiledandagedbanksofsnowlaycloseaboutourpath。
TheghastlydesolationoftheplacewasastremendouslycompleteasifDor\'ehadfurnishedtheworking-plansforit。Buteverynowandthen,throughthesterngatewaysarounduswecaughtaviewofsomeneighboringmajesticdome,sheathedwithglitteringice,anddisplayingitswhitepurityatanelevationcomparedtowhichourswasgrovelingandplebeian,andthisspectaclealwayschainedone\'sinterestandadmirationatonce,andmadehimforgettherewasanythinguglyintheworld。
Ihavejustsaidthattherewasnothingbutdeathanddesolationinthesehideousplaces,butIforgot。
Inthemostforlornandaridanddismaloneofall,wheretherackedandsplintereddebriswasthickest,wheretheancientpatchesofsnowlayagainsttheverypath,wherethewindsblewbitterestandthegeneralaspectwasmournfulestanddreariest,andfurthestfromanysuggestionofcheerorhope,Ifoundasolitaryweeforget-me-notflourishingaway,notadroopaboutitanywhere,butholdingitsbrightbluestarupwiththeprettiestandgallantestairintheworld,theonlyhappyspirit,theonlysmilingthing,inallthatgrislydesert。
Sheseemedtosay,\"Cheerup!——aslongaswearehere,letusmakethebestofit。\"Ijudgedshehadearnedarighttoamorehospitableplace;soIpluckedherupandsenthertoAmericatoafriendwhowouldrespectherforthefightshehadmade,allbyhersmallself,tomakeawholevastdespondentAlpinedesolationstopbreakingitsheartovertheunalterable,andholdupitsheadandlookatthebrightsideofthingsforonce。
WestoppedforanooningatastronglybuiltlittleinncalledtheSchwarenbach。Itsitsinalonelyspotamongthepeaks,whereitissweptbythetrailingfringesofthecloud-rack,andisrainedon,andsnowedon,andpeltedandpersecutedbythestorms,nearlyeverydayofitslife。ItwastheonlyhabitationinthewholeGemmiPass。
Closeathand,now,wasachanceforablood-curdlingAlpineadventure。CloseathandwasthesnowymassoftheGreatAltelscoolingitstopknotintheskyanddaringustoanascent。Iwasfiredwiththeidea,andimmediatelymadeupmymindtoprocurethenecessaryguides,ropes,etc。,andundertakeit。IinstructedHarristogotothelandlordoftheinnandsethimaboutourpreparations。Meantime,Iwentdiligentlytoworktoreadupandfindoutwhatthismuch-talked-ofmountain-climbingwaslike,andhowoneshouldgoaboutit——forinthesemattersIwasignorant。IopenedMr。Hinchliff\'sSUMMERMONTHSAMONGTHEALPSpublished1857,andselectedhisaccountofhisascentofMonteRosa。
Itbegan:
\"Itisverydifficulttofreethemindfromexcitementontheeveningbeforeagrandexpedition——\"
IsawthatIwastoocalm;soIwalkedtheroomawhileandworkedmyselfintoahighexcitement;butthebook\'snextremark——thattheadventurermustgetupattwointhemorning——cameasnearasanythingtoflattingitalloutagain。However,Ireinforcedit,andreadon,abouthowMr。Hinchliffdressedbycandle-lightandwas\"soondownamongtheguides,whowerebustlingaboutinthepassage,packingprovisions,andmakingeverypreparationforthestart\";
andhowheglancedoutintothecoldclearnightandsawthat——
\"Thewholeskywasblazingwithstars,largerandbrighterthantheyappearthroughthedenseatmospherebreathedbyinhabitantsofthelowerpartsoftheearth。
Theyseemedactuallysuspendedfromthedarkvaultofheaven,andtheirgentlelightshedafairylikegleamoverthesnow-fieldsaroundthefootoftheMatterhorn,whichraiseditsstupendouspinnacleonhigh,penetratingtotheheartoftheGreatBear,andcrowningitselfwithadiademofhismagnificentstars。Notasounddisturbedthedeeptranquillityofthenight,exceptthedistantroarofstreamswhichrushfromthehighplateauoftheSt。Theoduleglacier,andfallheadlongoverprecipitousrockstilltheylosethemselvesinthemazesoftheGornerglacier。\"
Hetookhishottoastandcoffee,andthenabouthalfpastthreehiscaravanoftenmenfiledawayfromtheRiffelHotel,andbeganthesteepclimb。
Athalfpastfivehehappenedtoturnaround,and\"beheldthegloriousspectacleoftheMatterhorn,justtouchedbytherosy-fingeredmorning,andlookinglikeahugepyramidoffirerisingoutofthebarrenoceanoficeandrockaroundit。\"ThentheBreithornandtheDentBlanchecaughttheradiantglow;but\"theinterveningmassofMonteRosamadeitnecessaryforustoclimbmanylonghoursbeforewecouldhopetoseethesunhimself,yetthewholeairsoongrewwarmerafterthesplendidbirthoftheday。\"
HegazedattheloftycrownofMonteRosaandthewastesofsnowthatguardeditssteepapproaches,andthechiefguidedeliveredtheopinionthatnomancouldconquertheirawfulheightsandputhisfootuponthatsummit。
Buttheadventurersmovedsteadilyon,nevertheless。
Theytoiledup,andup,andstillup;theypassedtheGrandPlateau;thentoiledupasteepshoulderofthemountain,clinginglikefliestoitsruggedface;
andnowtheywereconfrontedbyatremendouswallfromwhichgreatblocksoficeandsnowwereevidentlyinthehabitoffalling。Theyturnedasidetoskirtthiswall,andgraduallyascendeduntiltheirwaywasbarredbya\"mazeofgiganticsnowcrevices,\"——sotheyturnedasideagain,and\"beganalongclimbofsufficientsteepnesstomakeazigzagcoursenecessary。\"
Fatiguecompelledthemtohaltfrequently,foramomentortwo。Atoneofthesehaltssomebodycalledout,\"LookatMontBlanc!\"and\"wewereatoncemadeawareoftheverygreatheightwehadattainedbyactuallyseeingthemonarchoftheAlpsandhisattendantsatellitesrightoverthetopoftheBreithorn,itselfatleast14,000feethigh!\"
Thesepeoplemovedinsinglefile,andwerealltiedtoastrongrope,atregulardistancesapart,sothatifoneofthemslippedonthosegiddyheights,theotherscouldbracethemselvesontheiralpenstocksandsavehimfromdartingintothevalley,thousandsoffeetbelow。
Byandbytheycametoanice-coatedridgewhichwastiltedupatasharpangle,andhadaprecipiceononesideofit。
Theyhadtoclimbthis,sotheguideintheleadcutstepsintheicewithhishatchet,andasfastashetookhistoesoutofoneoftheseslightholes,thetoesofthemanbehindhimoccupiedit。
\"Slowlyandsteadilywekeptonourwayoverthisdangerouspartoftheascent,andIdaresayitwasfortunateforsomeofusthatattentionwasdistractedfromtheheadbytheparamountnecessityoflookingafterthefeet;
FOR,WHILEONTHELEFTTHEINCLINEOFICEWASSOSTEEP
THATITWOULDBEIMPOSSIBLEFORANYMANTOSAVEHIMSELF
INCASEOFASLIP,UNLESSTHEOTHERSCOULDHOLDHIMUP,ONTHERIGHTWEMIGHTDROPAPEBBLEFROMTHEHANDOVER
PRECIPICESOFUNKNOWNEXTENTDOWNUPONTHETREMENDOUS
GLACIERBELOW。
\"Greatcaution,therefore,wasabsolutelynecessary,andinthisexposedsituationwewereattackedbyallthefuryofthatgrandenemyofaspirantstoMonteRosa——asevereandbitterlycoldwindfromthenorth。
Thefinepowderysnowwasdrivenpastusintheclouds,penetratingtheintersticesofourclothes,andthepiecesoficewhichflewfromtheblowsofPeter\'saxwerewhiskedintotheair,andthendashedovertheprecipice。
Wehadquiteenoughtodotopreventourselvesfrombeingservedinthesameruthlessfashion,andnowandthen,inthemoreviolentgustsofwind,weregladtostickouralpenstocksintotheiceandholdonhard。\"
Havingsurmountedthisperiloussteep,theysatdownandtookabriefrestwiththeirbacksagainstashelteringrockandtheirheelsdanglingoverabottomlessabyss;
thentheyclimbedtothebaseofanotherridge——amoredifficultanddangerousonestill:
\"Thewholeoftheridgewasexceedinglynarrow,andthefalloneachsidedesperatelysteep,buttheiceinsomeoftheseintervalsbetweenthemassesofrockassumedtheformofameresharpedge,almostlikeaknife;
theseplaces,thoughnotmorethanthreeorfourshortpacesinlength,lookeduncommonlyawkward;but,liketheswordleadingtruebelieverstothegatesofParadise,theymustneedsbepassedbeforewecouldattaintothesummitofourambition。Thesewereinoneortwoplacessonarrow,thatinsteppingoverthemwithtoeswellturnedoutforgreatersecurity,ONEENDOFTHE
FOOTPROJECTEDOVERTHEAWFULPRECIPICEONTHERIGHT,WHILETHEOTHERWASONTHEBEGINNINGOFTHEICESLOPEON
THELEFT,WHICHWASSCARCELYLESSSTEEPTHANTHEROCKS。
OntheseoccasionsPeterwouldtakemyhand,andeachofusstretchingasfaraswecould,hewasthusenabledtogetafirmfootingtwopacesorrathermorefromme,whenceaspringwouldprobablybringhimtotherockontheotherside;then,turningaround,hecalledtometocome,and,takingacoupleofstepscarefully,Iwasmetatthethirdbyhisoutstretchedhandreadytoclaspmine,andinamomentstoodbyhisside。
Theothersfollowedinmuchthesamefashion。Oncemyrightfootslippedonthesidetowardtheprecipice,butIthrewoutmyleftarminamomentsothatitcaughttheicyedgeundermyarmpitasIfell,andsupportedmeconsiderably;atthesameinstantIcastmyeyesdownthesideonwhichIhadslipped,andcontrivedtoplantmyrightfootonapieceofrockaslargeasacricket-ball,whichchancedtoprotrudethroughtheice,ontheveryedgeoftheprecipice。Beingthusanchoredforeandaft,asitwere,IbelieveIcouldeasilyhaverecoveredmyself,evenifIhadbeenalone,thoughitmustbeconfessedthesituationwouldhavebeenanawfulone;
asitwas,however,ajerkfromPetersettledthematterverysoon,andIwasonmylegsallrightinaninstant。
Theropeisanimmensehelpinplacesofthiskind。\"
Nowtheyarrivedatthebaseofagreatknobordomeveneeredwithiceandpowderedwithsnow——theutmost,summit,thelastbitofsoliditybetweenthemandthehollowvaultofheaven。Theysettoworkwiththeirhatchets,andweresooncreeping,insectlike,upitssurface,withtheirheelsprojectingoverthethinnestkindofnothingness,thickenedupalittlewithafewwanderingshredsandfilmsofcloudmovinginalazyprocessionfarbelow。
Presently,oneman\'stoe-holdbrokeandhefell!Therehedangledinmid-airattheendoftherope,likeaspider,tillhisfriendsabovehauledhimintoplaceagain。
Alittlebitlater,thepartystoodupontheweepedestaloftheverysummit,inadrivingwind,andlookedoutuponthevastgreenexpansesofItalyandashorelessoceanofbillowyAlps。
WhenIhadreadthusfar,Harrisbrokeintotheroominanobleexcitementandsaidtheropesandtheguidesweresecured,andaskedifIwasready。IsaidI
believedIwouldn\'tascendtheAltelsthistime。
IsaidAlp-climbingwasadifferentthingfromwhatIhadsupposeditwas,andsoIjudgedwehadbetterstudyitspointsalittlemorebeforewewentdefinitelyintoit。
ButItoldhimtoretaintheguidesandorderthemtofollowustoZermatt,becauseImeanttousethemthere。
IsaidIcouldfeelthespiritofadventurebeginningtostirinme,andwassurethatthefellfascinationofAlp-climbingwouldsoonbeuponme。Isaidhecouldmakeuphismindtoitthatwewoulddoadeedbeforewewereaweekolderwhichwouldmakethehairofthetimidcurlwithfright。
ThismadeHarrishappy,andfilledhimwithambitiousanticipations。HewentatoncetotelltheguidestofollowustoZermattandbringalltheirparaphernaliawiththem。
CHAPTERXXXV
[SwindlingtheCoroner]
Agreatandpricelessthingisanewinterest!Howittakespossessionofaman!howitclingstohim,howitrideshim!IstrodeonwardfromtheSchwarenbackhostelryachangedman,areorganizedpersonality。
Iwalkedintoanewworld,Isawwithneweyes。
Ihadbeenlookingaloftatthegiantshow-peaksonlyasthingstobeworshipedfortheirgrandeurandmagnitude,andtheirunspeakablegraceofform;Ilookedupatthemnow,asalsothingstobeconqueredandclimbed。
Mysenseoftheirgrandeurandtheirnoblebeautywasneitherlostnorimpaired;Ihadgainedanewinterestinthemountainswithoutlosingtheoldones。
Ifollowedthesteeplinesup,inchbyinch,withmyeye,andnotedthepossibilityorimpossibilityoffollowingthemwithmyfeet。WhenIsawashininghelmetoficeprojectingabovetheclouds,ItriedtoimagineIsawfilesofblackspeckstoilingupitropedtogetherwithagossamerthread。
WeskirtedthelonelylittlelakecalledtheDaubensee,andpresentlypassedclosebyaglacierontheright——
athinglikeagreatriverfrozensolidinitsflowandbrokensquareofflikeawallatitsmouth。
Ihadneverbeensonearaglacierbefore。
Herewecameuponanewboardshanty,andfoundsomemenengagedinbuildingastonehouse;sotheSchwarenbackwassoontohavearival。Weboughtabottleorsoofbeerhere;
atanyratetheycalleditbeer,butIknewbythepricethatitwasdissolvedjewelry,andIperceivedbythetastethatdissolvedjewelryisnotgoodstufftodrink。
Weweresurroundedbyahideousdesolation。Westeppedforwardtoasortofjumping-offplace,andwereconfrontedbyastartlingcontrast:weseemedtolookdownintofairyland。
Twoorthreethousandfeetbelowuswasabrightgreenlevel,withaprettytowninitsmidst,andasilverystreamwindingamongthemeadows;thecharmingspotwaswalledinonallsidesbygiganticprecipicesclothedwithpines;
andoverthepines,outofthesofteneddistances,rosethesnowydomesandpeaksoftheMonteRosaregion。
Howexquisitelygreenandbeautifulthatlittlevalleydowntherewas!Thedistancewasnotgreatenoughtoobliteratedetails,itonlymadethemlittle,andmellow,anddainty,likelandscapesandtownsseenthroughthewrongendofaspy-glass。
Rightunderusanarrowledgeroseupoutofthevalley,withagreen,slanting,bench-shapedtop,andgroupedaboutuponthisgreen-baizebenchwerealotofblackandwhitesheepwhichlookedmerelylikeoversizedworms。
Thebenchseemedliftedwellupintoourneighborhood,butthatwasadeception——itwasalongwaydowntoit。
Webeganourdescent,now,bythemostremarkableroadI
haveeverseen。Itwounditcorkscrewcurvesdownthefaceofthecolossalprecipice——anarrowway,withalwaysthesolidrockwallatoneelbow,andperpendicularnothingnessattheother。Wemetaneverlastingprocessionofguides,porters,mules,litters,andtouristsclimbingupthissteepandmuddypath,andtherewasnoroomtosparewhenyouhadtopassatolerablyfatmule。
Ialwaystooktheinside,whenIheardorsawthemulecoming,andflattenedmyselfagainstthewall。
Ipreferredtheinside,ofcourse,butIshouldhavehadtotakeitanyhow,becausethemulepreferstheoutside。
Amule\'spreference——onaprecipice——isathingtoberespected。Well,hischoiceisalwaystheoutside。
Hislifeismostlydevotedtocarryingbulkypanniersandpackageswhichrestagainsthisbody——thereforeheishabituatedtotakingtheoutsideedgeofmountainpaths,tokeephisbundlesfromrubbingagainstrocksorbanksontheother。Whenhegoesintothepassengerbusinessheabsurdlyclingstohisoldhabit,andkeepsonelegofhispassengeralwaysdanglingoverthegreatdeepsofthelowerworldwhilethatpassenger\'sheartisinthehighlands,sotospeak。MorethanonceIsawamule\'shindfootcaveovertheouteredgeandsendearthandrubbishintothebottomabyss;andInoticedthatupontheseoccasionstherider,whethermaleorfemale,lookedtolerablyunwell。
Therewasoneplacewhereaneighteen-inchbreadthoflightmasonryhadbeenaddedtothevergeofthepath,andastherewasaverysharpturnhere,apaneloffencinghadbeensetupthereatsometime,asaprotection。
Thispanelwasoldandgrayandfeeble,andthelightmasonryhadbeenloosenedbyrecentrains。AyoungAmericangirlcamealongonamule,andinmakingtheturnthemule\'shindfootcavedalltheloosemasonryandoneofthefence-postsoverboard;themulegaveaviolentlurchinboardtosavehimself,andsucceededintheeffort,butthatgirlturnedaswhiteasthesnowsofMontBlancforamoment。
Thepathwassimplyagroovecutintothefaceoftheprecipice;therewasafour-footbreadthofsolidrockunderthetraveler,andfour-footbreadthofsolidrockjustabovehishead,liketheroofofanarrowporch;
hecouldlookoutfromthisgalleryandseeasheersummitlessandbottomlesswallofrockbeforehim,acrossagorgeorcrackabiscuit\'stossinwidth——
buthecouldnotseethebottomofhisownprecipiceunlesshelaydownandprojectedhisnoseovertheedge。
Ididnotdothis,becauseIdidnotwishtosoilmyclothes。
Everyfewhundredyards,atparticularlybadplaces,onecameacrossapanelorsoofplankfencing;buttheywerealwaysoldandweak,andtheygenerallyleanedoutoverthechasmanddidnotmakeanyrashpromisestoholduppeoplewhomightneedsupport。Therewasoneofthesepanelswhichhadonlyitsupperboardleft;
apedestrianizingEnglishyouthcametearingdownthepath,wasseizedwithanimpulsetolookovertheprecipice,andwithoutaninstant\'sthoughthethrewhisweightuponthatcrazyboard。Itbentoutwardafoot!Inevermadeagaspbeforethatcamesonearsuffocatingme。
TheEnglishyouth\'sfacesimplyshowedalivelysurprise,butnothingmore。Hewentswingingalongvalleywardagain,asifhedidnotknowhehadjustswindledacoronerbytheclosestkindofashave。