OntheThursdaybeforewearrived，theticketswerecollected；andsoonarumourbegantogoroundthevessel；andthisgirl，withherbitofsealskincap，becamethecentreofwhisperingandpointedfingers。Shealso，itwassaid，wasastowawayofasort；forshewasonboardwithneitherticketnormoney；andthemanwithwhomshetravelledwasthefatherofafamily，whohadleftwifeandchildrentobehers。Theship’sofficersdiscouragedthestory，whichmaythereforehavebeenastoryandnomore；butitwasbelievedinthesteerage，andthepoorgirlhadtoencountermanycuriouseyesfromthatdayforth。
PERSONALEXPERIENCEANDREVIEW
Travelisoftwokinds；andthisvoyageofmineacrosstheoceancombinedboth。’OutofmycountryandmyselfIgo，’singstheoldpoet：andIwasnotonlytravellingoutofmycountryinlatitudeandlongitude，butoutofmyselfindiet，associates，andconsideration。Partoftheinterestandagreatdealoftheamusementflowed，atleasttome，fromthisnovelsituationintheworld。
IfoundthatIhadwhattheycallfalleninlifewithabsolutesuccessandverisimilitude。Iwastakenforasteeragepassenger；nooneseemedsurprisedthatIshouldbeso；andtherewasnothingbutthebrassplatebetweendeckstoremindmethatIhadoncebeenagentleman。Inaformerbook，describingaformerjourney，I
expressedsomewonderthatIcouldbereadilyandnaturallytakenforapedlar，andexplainedtheaccidentbythedifferenceoflanguageandmannersbetweenEnglandandFrance。Imustnowtakeahumblerview；forhereIwasamongmyowncountrymen，somewhatroughlycladtobesure，butwitheveryadvantageofspeechandmanner；andIamboundtoconfessthatIpassedfornearlyanythingyoupleaseexceptaneducatedgentleman。Thesailorscalledme’mate，’theofficersaddressedmeas’myman，’mycomradesacceptedmewithouthesitationforapersonoftheirowncharacterandexperience，butwithsomecuriousinformation。One，amasonhimself，believedIwasamason；
several，andamongtheseatleastoneoftheseaman，judgedmetobeapettyofficerintheAmericannavy；andIwassooftensetdownforapracticalengineerthatatlastIhadnotthehearttodenyit。
FromalltheseguessesIdrewoneconclusion，whichtoldagainsttheinsightofmycompanions。Theymightbecloseobserversintheirownway，andreadthemannersintheface；butitwasplainthattheydidnotextendtheirobservationtothehands。
TothesaloonpassengersalsoIsustainedmypartwithoutahitch。
ItistrueIcamelittleintheirway；butwhenwedidencounter，therewasnorecognitionintheireye，althoughIconfessIsometimescourteditinsilence。Allthese，myinferiorsandequals，tookme，likethetransformedmonarchinthestory，foramerecommon，humanman。Theygavemeahard，deadlook，withthefleshabouttheeyekeptunrelaxed。
Withthewomenthissurprisedmeless，asIhadalreadyexperimentedonthesexbygoingabroadthroughasuburbanpartofLondonsimplyattiredinasleeve—waistcoat。Theresultwascurious。Ithenlearnedforthefirsttime，andbytheexhaustiveprocess，howmuchattentionladiesareaccustomedtobestowonallmalecreaturesoftheirownstation；for，inmyhumblerig，eachonewhowentbymecausedmeacertainshockofsurpriseandasenseofsomethingwanting。Inmynormalcircumstances，itappearedeveryyoungladymusthavepaidmesometributeofaglance；andthoughIhadoftennotdetecteditwhenitwasgiven，Iwaswellawareofitsabsencewhenitwaswithheld。Myheightseemedtodecreasewitheverywomanwhopassedme，forshepassedmelikeadog。Thisisoneofmygroundsforsupposingthatwhatarecalledtheupperclassesmaysometimesproduceadisagreeableimpressioninwhatarecalledthelower；andIwishsomeonewouldcontinuemyexperiment，andfindoutexactlyatwhatstageoftoiletteamanbecomesinvisibletothewell—regulatedfemaleeye。
Hereonshipboardthematterwasputtoamorecompletetest；for，evenwiththeadditionofspeechandmanner，Ipassedamongtheladiesforpreciselytheaveragemanofthesteerage。ItwasoneafternoonthatIsawthisdemonstrated。Averyplainlydressedwomanwastakenillondeck。IthinkIhadthelucktobepresentateverysuddenseizureduringallthepassage；andonthisoccasionfoundmyselfintheplaceofimportance，supportingthesufferer。Therewasnotonlyalargecrowdimmediatelyaroundus，butaconsiderableknotofsaloonpassengersleaningoverourheadsfromthehurricane—
deck。Oneofthese，anelderlymanagingwoman，hailedmewithcounsels。OfcourseIhadtoreply；andasthetalkwenton，Ibegantodiscoverthatthewholegrouptookmeforthehusband。Ilookeduponmynewwife，poorcreature，withmingledfeelings；andImustownshehadnoteventheappearanceofthepoorestclassofcityservant—maids，butlookedmorelikeacountrywenchwhoshouldhavebeenemployedataroadsideinn。Nowwasthetimeformetogoandstudythebrassplate。
Tosuchoftheofficersasknewaboutme—thedoctor，thepurser，andthestewards—Iappearedinthelightofabroadjoke。ThefactthatIspentthebetterpartofmydayinwritinghadgoneabroadovertheshipandtickledthemallprodigiously。Whenevertheymetmetheyreferredtomyabsurdoccupationwithfamiliarityandbreadthofhumorousintention。Theirmannerwaswellcalculatedtoremindmeofmyfallenfortunes。Youmaybesincerelyamusedbytheamateurliteraryeffortsofagentleman，butyouscarcepublishthefeelingtohisface。’Well！’theywouldsay：’stillwriting？’Andthesmilewouldwidenintoalaugh。Thepursercameonedayintothecabin，and，touchedtotheheartbymymisguidedindustry，offeredmesomeotherkindofwriting，’forwhich，’headdedpointedly，’youwillbepaid。’Thiswasnothingelsethantocopyoutthelistofpassengers。
Anothertrickofminewhichtoldagainstmyreputationwasmychoiceofroosting—placeinanactivedraughtuponthecabinfloor。Iwasopenlyjeeredandfloutedforthiseccentricity；andaconsiderableknotwouldsometimesgatheratthedoortoseemylastdispositionsforthenight。Thiswasembarrassing，butIlearnedtosupportthetrialwithequanimity。
IndeedImaysaythat，uponthewhole，mynewpositionsatlightlyandnaturallyuponmyspirits。Iacceptedtheconsequenceswithreadiness，andfoundthemfarfromdifficulttobear。Thesteerageconqueredme；Iconformedmoreandmoretothetypeoftheplace，notonlyinmannerbutatheart，growinghostiletotheofficersandcabinpassengerswholookeddownuponme，anddaybydaygreedierforsmalldelicacies。Suchwastheresult，asIfancy，ofadietofbreadandbutter，soupandporridge。Wethinkwehavenosweettoothaslongaswearefulltothebrimofmolasses；butamanmusthavesojournedintheworkhousebeforeheboastshimselfindifferenttodainties。Everyevening，forinstance，Iwasmoreandmorepreoccupiedaboutourdoubtfulfareattea。Ifitwasdelicatemyheartwasmuchlightened；ifitwasbutbrokenfishIwasproportionallydowncast。Theofferofalittlejellyfromafellow—
passengermoreprovidentthanmyselfcausedamarkedelevationinmyspirits。AndIwouldhavegonetotheship’sendandbackagainforanoysterorachippedfruit。
InotherwaysIwascontentwithmyposition。Itseemednodisgracetoheconfoundedwithmycompany；forImayaswelldeclareatonceI
foundtheirmannersasgentleandbecomingasthoseofanyotherclass。Idonotmeanthatmyfriendscouldhavesatdownwithoutembarrassmentandlaughabledisasteratthetableofaduke。Thatdoesnotimplyaninferiorityofbreeding，butadifferenceofusage。
ThusIflattermyselfthatIconductedmyselfwellamongmyfellow—
passengers；yetmymostambitioushopeisnottohaveavoidedfaults，buttohavecommittedasfewaspossible。Iknowtoowellthatmytactisnotthesameastheirtact，andthatmyhabitofadifferentsocietyconstituted，notonlynoqualification，butapositivedisabilitytomoveeasilyandbecominglyinthis。WhenJonescomplimentedme—becauseI’managedtobehaveverypleasantly’tomyfellow—passengers，washowheputit—Icouldfollowthethoughtinhismind，andknewhiscomplimenttobesuchaswepayforeignersontheirproficiencyinEnglish。Idaresaythispraisewasgivenmeimmediatelyonthebackofsomeunpardonablesolecism，whichhadledhimtoreviewmyconductasawhole。Weareallreadytolaughattheploughmanamonglords；weshouldconsideralsothecaseofalordamongtheploughmen。IhaveseenalawyerinthehouseofaHebrideanfisherman；andIknow，butnothingwillinducemetodisclose，whichofthesetwowasthebettergentleman。Someofourfinestbehaviour，thoughitlookswellenoughfromtheboxes，mayseemevenbrutaltothegallery。Weboasttoooftenmannersthatareparochialratherthanuniversal；that，likeacountrywine，willnotbeartransportationforahundredmiles，norfromtheparlourtothekitchen。Tobeagentlemanistobeonealltheworldover，andineveryrelationandgradeofsociety。Itisahighcalling，towhichamanmustfirstbeborn，andthendevotehimselfforlife。And，unhappily，themannersofacertainso—calleduppergradehaveakindofcurrency，andmeetwithacertainexternalacceptationthroughoutalltheothers，andthistendstokeepuswellsatisfiedwithslightacquirementsandtheamateurishaccomplishmentsofaclique。Butmanners，likeart，shouldbehumanandcentral。
Someofmyfellow—passengers，asInowmovedamongtheminarelationofequality，seemedtomeexcellentgentlemen。Theywerenotrough，norhasty，nordisputatious；debatedpleasantly，differedkindly；
werehelpful，gentle，patient，andplacid。Thetypeofmannerswasplain，andevenheavy；therewaslittletopleasetheeye，butnothingtoshock；andIthoughtgentlenesslaymorenearlyatthespringofbehaviourthaninmanymoreornateanddelicatesocieties。
Isaydelicate，whereIcannotsayrefined；athingmaybefine，likeironwork，withoutbeingdelicate，likelace。Therewasherelessdelicacy；theskinsupportedmorecallouslythenaturalsurfaceofevents，themindreceivedmorebravelythecrudefactsofhumanexistence；butIdonotthinkthattherewaslesseffectiverefinement，lessconsiderationforothers，lesspolitesuppressionofself。Ispeakofthebestamongmyfellow—passengers；forinthesteerage，aswellasinthesaloon，thereisamixture。Those，then，withwhomIfoundmyselfinsympathy，andofwhomImaythereforehopetowritewithagreatermeasureoftruth，werenotonlyasgoodintheirmanners，butendowedwithverymuchthesamenaturalcapacities，andaboutaswiseindeduction，asthebankersandbarristersofwhatiscalledsociety。Oneandallweretoomuchinterestedindisconnectedfacts，andlovedinformationforitsownsakewithtoorashadevotion；butpeopleinallclassesdisplaythesameappetiteastheygorgethemselvesdailywiththemiscellaneousgossipofthenewspaper。Newspaper—reading，asfarasIcanmakeout，isoftenratherasortofbrownstudythananactofculture。I
havemyselfpalmedoffyesterday’sissueonafriend，andseenhimre—peruseitforacontinuanceofminuteswithanairatoncerefreshedandsolemn。Workmen，perhaps，paymoreattention；butthoughtheymaybeeagerlisteners，theyhaverarelyseemedtomeeitherwillingorcarefulthinkers。Cultureisnotmeasuredbythegreatnessofthefieldwhichiscoveredbyourknowledge，butbythenicetywithwhichwecanperceiverelationsinthatfield，whethergreatorsmall。Workmen，certainlythosewhowereonboardwithme，Ifoundwantinginthisqualityorhabitofthemind。Theydidnotperceiverelations，butleapedtoaso—calledcause，andthoughttheproblemsettled。ThusthecauseofeverythinginEnglandwastheformofgovernment，andthecureforallevilswas，byconsequence，arevolution。Itissurprisinghowmanyofthemsaidthis，andthatnoneshouldhavehadadefinitethoughtinhisheadashesaidit。
SomehatedtheChurchbecausetheydisagreedwithit；somehatedLordBeaconsfieldbecauseofwarandtaxes；allhatedthemasters，possiblywithreason。Butthesefailingswerenotattherootofthematter；thetruereasoningoftheirsoulsranthus—Ihavenotgoton；Ioughttohavegoton；iftherewasarevolutionIshouldgeton。How？Theyhadnoidea。Why？Because—because—well，lookatAmerica！
Tobepoliticallyblindisnodistinction；weareallso，ifyoucometothat。Atbottom，asitseemstome，thereisbutonequestioninmodernhomepolitics，thoughitappearsinmanyshapes，andthatisthequestionofmoney；andbutonepoliticalremedy，thatthepeopleshouldgrowwiserandbetter。Myworkmenfellow—passengerswereasimpatientanddullofhearingonthesecondofthesepointsasanymemberofParliament；buttheyhadsomeglimmeringsofthefirst。
Theywouldnothearofimprovementontheirpart，butwishedtheworldmadeoveragaininacrack，sothattheymightremainimprovidentandidleanddebauched，andyetenjoythecomfortandrespectthatshouldaccompanytheoppositevirtues；anditwasinthisexpectation，asfarasIcouldsee，thatmanyofthemwerenowontheirwaytoAmerica。Butonthepointofmoneytheysawclearlyenoughthatinlandpolitics，sofarastheywereconcerned，werereducibletothequestionofannualincome；aquestionwhichshouldlongagohavebeensettledbyarevolution，theydidnotknowhow，andwhichtheywerenowabouttosettleforthemselves，oncemoretheyknewnothow，bycrossingtheAtlanticinasteamshipofconsiderabletonnage。
Andyetithasbeenamplyshownthemthatthesecondorincomequestionisinitselfnothing，andmayaswellbeleftundecided，iftherebenowisdomandvirtuetoprofitbythechange。Itisnotbyaman’spurse，butbyhischaracterthatheisrichorpoor。Barneywillbepoor，Alickwillbepoor，Mackaywillbepoor；letthemgowheretheywill，andwreckallthegovernmentsunderheaven，theywillbepooruntiltheydie。
Nothingisperhapsmorenotableintheaverageworkmanthanhissurprisingidleness，andthecandourwithwhichheconfessestothefailing。Ithastomebeenalwayssomethingofarelieftofindthepoor，asageneralrule，solittleoppressedwithwork。Icaninconsequenceenjoymyownmorefortunatebeginningwithabettergrace。TheotherdayIwaslivingwithafarmerinAmerica，anoldfrontiersman，whohadworkedandfought，huntedandfarmed，fromhischildhoodup。Heexcusedhimselfforhisdefectiveeducationonthegroundthathehadbeenoverworkedfromfirsttolast。Evennow，hesaid，anxiousashewas，hehadneverthetimetotakeupabook。Inconsequenceofthis，Iobservedhimclosely；hewasoccupiedforfouror，attheextremeoutside，forfivehoursoutofthetwenty—four，andthenprincipallyinwalking；andtheremainderofthedayhepassedinbornidleness，eithereatingfruitorstandingwithhisbackagainstadoor。Ihaveknownmendohardliteraryworkallmorning，andthenundergoquiteasmuchphysicalfatiguebywayofreliefassatisfiedthispowerfulfrontiersmanfortheday。He，atleast，likealltheeducatedclass，didsomuchhomagetoindustryastopersuadehimselfhewasindustrious。Buttheaveragemechanicrecogniseshisidlenesswitheffrontery；hehaseven，asIamtold，organisedit。
Igivethestoryasitwastoldme，anditwastoldmeforafact。A
manfellfromahousetopinthecityofAberdeen，andwasbroughtintohospitalwithbrokenbones。Hewasaskedwhatwashistrade，andrepliedthathewasaTAPPER。Noonehadeverheardofsuchathingbefore；theofficialswerefilledwithcuriosity；theybesoughtanexplanation。Itappearedthatwhenapartyofslaterswereengageduponaroof，theywouldnowandthenbetakenwithafancyforthepublic—house。Nowaseamstress，forexample，mightslipawayfromherworkandnoonebethewiser；butifthesefellowsadjourned，thetappingofthemalletswouldcease，andthustheneighbourhoodbeadvertisedoftheirdefection。Hencethecareerofthetapper。Hehastodothetappingandkeepupanindustriousbustleonthehousetopduringtheabsenceoftheslaters。Whenhetapsforonlyoneortwothethingischild’s—play，butwhenhehastorepresentawholetroop，itisthenthatheearnshismoneyinthesweatofhisbrow。Thenmustheboundfromspottospot，reduplicate，triplicate，sexduplicatehissinglepersonality，andswellandhastenhisblows。，untilheproduceaperfectillusionfortheear，andyouwouldswearthatacrowdofemulousmasonswerecontinuingmerrilytoroofthehouse。Itmustbeastrangesightfromanupperwindow。
Iheardnothingonboardofthetapper；butIwasastonishedatthestoriestoldbymycompanions。Skulking，shirking，malingering，wereallestablishedtactics，itappeared。Theycouldseenodishonestywhereamanwhoispaidforanbonesworkgiveshalfanhour’sconsistentidlinginitsplace。Thusthetapperwouldrefusetowatchforthepoliceduringaburglary，andcallhimselfahonestman。Itisnotsufficientlyrecognisedthatourracedeteststowork。IfIthoughtthatIshouldhavetoworkeverydayofmylifeashardasIamworkingnow，Ishouldbetemptedtogiveupthestruggle。Andtheworkmanearlybeginsonhiscareeroftoil。Hehasneverhadhisfillofholidaysinthepast，andhisprospectofholidaysinthefutureisbothdistantanduncertain。Inthecircumstances，itwouldrequireahighdegreeofvirtuenottosnatchalleviationsforthemoment。
Thereweremanygoodtalkersontheship；andIbelievegoodtalkingofacertainsortisacommonaccomplishmentamongworkingmen。
Wherebooksarecomparativelyscarce，agreateramountofinformationwillbegivenandreceivedbywordofmouth；andthistendstoproducegoodtalkers，and，whatisnolessneedfulforconversation，goodlisteners。Theycouldalltellastorywitheffect。Iamsometimestemptedtothinkthatthelessliteraryclassshowalwaysbetterinnarration；theyhavesomuchmorepatiencewithdetail，aresomuchlesshurriedtoreachthepoints，andpreservesomuchjusteraproportionamongthefacts。Atthesametimetheirtalkisdry；
theypursueatopicploddingly，havenotanagilefancy，donotthrowsuddenlightsfromunexpectedquarters，andwhenthetalkisovertheyoftenleavethematterwhereitwas。Theymarktimeinsteadofmarching。Theythinkonlytoargue，nottoreachnewconclusions，andusetheirreasonratherasaweaponofoffensethanasatoolforself—improvement。Hencethetalkofsomeofthecleverestwasunprofitableinresult，becausetherewasnogiveandtake；theywouldgrantyouaslittleaspossibleforpremise，andbegintodisputeunderanoathtoconquerortodie。
Butthetalkofaworkmanisapttobemoreinterestingthanthatofawealthymerchant，becausethethoughts，hopes，andfearsofwhichtheworkman’slifeisbuiltlienearertonecessityandnature。Theyaremoreimmediatetohumanlife。Anincomecalculatedbytheweekisafarmorehumanthingthanonecalculatedbytheyear，andasmallincome，simplyfromitssmallness，thanalargeone。Ineverweariedlisteningtothedetailsofaworkman’seconomy，becauseeveryitemstoodforsomerealpleasure。Ifhecouldaffordpuddingtwiceaweek，youknowthattwiceaweekthemanatewithgenuinegustoandwasphysicallyhappy；whileifyoulearnthatarichmanhassevencoursesaday，tentoonethehalfofthemremainuntasted，andthewholeisbutmisspentmoneyandawearinesstotheflesh。
ThedifferencebetweenEnglandandAmericatoaworkingmanwasthusmosthumanlyputtomebyafellow—passenger：’InAmerica，’saidhe，’yougetpiesandpuddings。’Idonothearenough，ineconomybooks，ofpiesandpudding。Amanlivesinandforthedelicacies，adornments，andaccidentalattributesoflife，suchaspuddingtoeatandpleasantbooksandtheatrestooccupyhisleisure。Thebaretermsofexistencewouldberejectedwithcontemptbyall。Ifamanfeedsonbreadandbutter，soupandporridge，hisappetitegrowswolfishafterdainties。Andtheworkmandwellsinaborderland，andisalwayswithinsightofthosecheerlessregionswherelifeismoredifficulttosustainthanworthsustaining。Everydetailofourexistence，whereitisworthwhiletocrosstheoceanafterpieandpudding，ismadealiveandenthrallingbythepresenceofgenuinedesire；butitisallonetomewhetherCroesushasahundredorathousandthousandsinthebank。Thereismoreadventureinthelifeoftheworkingmanwhodescendsasacommonsolderintothebattleoflife，thaninthatofthemillionairewhositsapartinanoffice，likeVonMoltke，andonlydirectsthemanoeuvresbytelegraph。Givemetohearaboutthecareerofhimwhoisinthethickofbusiness；
towhomonechangeofmarketmeansemptybelly，andanotheracopiousandsavourymeal。Thisisnotthephilosophical，butthehumansideofeconomics；itinterestslikeastory；andthelifeallwhoarethussituatedpartakesinasmallwaythecharmofROBINSONCRUSOE；
foreverystepiscriticalandhumanlifeispresentedtoyounakedandvergingtoitslowestterms。
NEWYORK
AswedrewneartoNewYorkIwasatfirstamused，andthensomewhatstaggered，bythecautiousandthegrislytalesthatwenttheround。
Youwouldhavethoughtweweretolanduponacannibalisland。Youmustspeaktonooneinthestreets，astheywouldnotleaveyoutillyouwererookedandbeaten。Youmustenterahotelwithmilitaryprecautions；fortheleastyouhadtoapprehendwastoawakenextmorningwithoutmoneyorbaggage，ornecessaryraiment，aloneforkedradishinabed；andiftheworstbefell，youwouldinstantlyandmysteriouslydisappearfromtheranksofmankind。
Ihaveusuallyfoundsuchstoriescorrespondtotheleastmodicumoffact。ThusIwaswarned，Iremember，againsttheroadsideinnsoftheCevennes，andthatbyalearnedprofessor；andwhenIreachedPradellesthewarningwasexplained—itwasbutthefar—awayrumourandreduplicationofasingleterrifyingstoryalreadyhalfacenturyold，andhalfforgotteninthetheatreoftheevents。SoIwastemptedtomakelightofthesereportsagainstAmerica。Butwehadonboardwithusamanwhoseevidenceitwouldnotdotoputaside。
Hehadcomeneartheseperilsinthebody；hehadvisitedarobberinn。Thepublichasanoldandwell—groundedfavourforthisclassofincident，andshallbegratifiedtothebestofmypower。
Myfellow—passenger，whomweshallcallM’Naughten，hadcomefromNewYorktoBostonwithacomrade，seekingwork。Theywereapairofrattlingblades；and，leavingtheirbaggageatthestation，passedthedayinbeersaloons，andwithcongenialspirits，untilmidnightstruck。Thentheyappliedthemselvestofindalodging，andwalkedthestreetstilltwo，knockingathousesofentertainmentandbeingrefusedadmittance，orthemselvesdecliningtheterms。Bytwotheinspirationoftheirliquorhadbeguntowearoff；theywerewearyandhumble，andafteragreatcircuitfoundthemselvesinthesamestreetwheretheyhadbeguntheirsearch，andinfrontofaFrenchhotelwheretheyhadalreadysoughtaccommodation。Seeingthehousestillopen，theyreturnedtothecharge。Amaninawhitecapsatinanofficebythedoor。Heseemedtowelcomethemmorewarmlythanwhentheyhadfirstpresentedthemselves，andthechargeforthenighthadsomewhatunaccountablyfallenfromadollartoaquarter。
Theythoughthimill—looking，butpaidtheirquarterapiece，andwereshownupstairstothetopofthehouse。There，inasmallroom，themaninthewhitecapwishedthempleasantslumbers。
Itwasfurnishedwithabed，achair，andsomeconveniences。Thedoordidnotlockontheinside；andtheonlysignofadornmentwasacoupleofframedpictures，onecloseabovetheheadofthebed，andtheotheroppositethefoot，andbothcurtained，aswemaysometimesseevaluablewater—colours，ortheportraitsofthedead，orworksofartmorethanusuallyskittishinthesubject。ItwasperhapsinthehopeoffindingsomethingofthislastdescriptionthatM’Naughten’scomradepulledasidethecurtainofthefirst。Hewasstartlinglydisappointed。Therewasnopicture。Theframesurrounded，andthecurtainwasdesignedtohide，anoblongapertureinthepartition，throughwhichtheylookedforthintothedarkcorridor。Apersonstandingwithoutcouldeasilytakeapursefromunderthepillow，orevenstrangleasleeperashelayabed。M’NaughtenandhiscomradestaredateachotherlikeVasco’sseamen，’withawildsurmise’；andthenthelatter，catchingupthelamp，rantotheotherframeandroughlyraisedthecurtain。Therehestood，petrified；andM’Naughten，whohadfollowed，graspedhimbythewristinterror。
Theycouldseeintoanotherroom，largerinsizethanthatwhichtheyoccupied，wherethreemensatcrouchingandsilentinthedark。Forasecondorsothesefivepersonslookedeachotherintheeyes，thenthecurtainwasdropped，andM’Naughtenandhisfriendmadebutoneboltofitoutoftheroomanddownstairs。Themaninthewhitecapsaidnothingastheypassedhim；andtheyweresopleasedtobeoncemoreintheopennightthattheygaveupallnotionofabed，andwalkedthestreetsofBostontillthemorning。
Nooneseemedmuchcastdownbythesestories，butallinquiredaftertheaddressofarespectablehotel；andI，formypart，putmyselfundertheconductofMr。Jones。BeforenoonofthesecondSundaywesightedthelowshoresoutsideofNewYorkharbour；thesteeragepassengersmustremainonboardtopassthroughCastleGardenonthefollowingmorning；butweofthesecondcabinmadeourescapealongwiththelordsofthesaloon；andbysixo’clockJonesandIissuedintoWestStreet，sittingonsomestrawinthebottomofanopenbaggage—wagon。Itrainedmiraculously；andfromthatmomenttillonthefollowingnightIleftNewYork，therewasscarcealull，andnocessationofthedownpour。Theroadwayswereflooded；aloudstridentnoiseoffallingwaterfilledtheair；therestaurantssmeltheavilyofwetpeopleandwetclothing。
Ittookusbutafewminutes，thoughitcostusagooddealofmoney，toberattledalongWestStreettoourdestination：’ReunionHouse，No。10WestStreet，oneminuteswalkfromCastleGarden；convenienttoCastleGarden，theSteamboatLandings，CaliforniaSteamersandLiverpoolShips；BoardandLodgingperday1dollar，singlemeals25
cents，lodgingpernight25cents；privateroomsforfamilies；nochargeforstorageorbaggage；satisfactionguaranteedtoallpersons；MichaelMitchell，Proprietor。’ReunionHousewas，Imaygothelengthofsaying，ahumblehostelry。Youenteredthroughalongbar—room，thencepassedintoalittledining—room，andthenceintoastillsmallerkitchen。Thefurniturewasoftheplainest；butthebarwashungintheAmericantaste，withencouragingandhospitablemottoes。
Joneswaswellknown；wewerereceivedwarmly；andtwominutesafterwardsIhadrefusedadrinkfromtheproprietor，andwasgoingon，inmyplainEuropeanfashion，torefuseacigar，whenMr。
Mitchellsternlyinterposed，andexplainedthesituation。Hewasofferingtotreatme，itappeared，wheneveranAmericanbar—keeperproposesanything，itmustbeborneinmindthatheisofferingtotreat；andifIdidnotwantadrink，Imustatleasttakethecigar。
Itookitbashfully，feelingIhadbegunmyAmericancareeronthewrongfoot。Ididnotenjoythatcigar；butthismayhavebeenfromavarietyofreasons，eventhebestcigaroftenfailingtopleaseifyousmokethree—quartersofitinadrenchingrain。
FormanyyearsAmericawastomeasortofpromisedland；’westwardthemarchofempireholdsitsway’；theraceisforthemomenttotheyoung；whathasbeenandwhatisweimperfectlyandobscurelyknow；
whatistobeyetliesbeyondtheflightofourimaginations。
Greece，Rome，andJudaeaaregonebyforever，leavingtogenerationsthelegacyoftheiraccomplishedwork；Chinastillendures，anold—
inhabitedhouseinthebrand—newcityofnations；Englandhasalreadydeclined，sinceshehaslosttheStates；andtotheseStates，therefore，yetundeveloped，fullofdarkpossibilities，andgrown，likeanotherEve，fromoneriboutofthesideoftheirownoldland，themindsofyoungmeninEnglandturnnaturallyatacertainhopefulperiodoftheirage。ItwillbehardforanAmericantounderstandthespirit。Butlethimimagineayoungman，whoshallhavegrownupinanoldandrigidcircle，followingbygonefashionsandtaughttodistrusthisownfreshinstincts，andwhonowsuddenlyhearsofafamilyofcousins，allabouthisownage，whokeephousetogetherbythemselvesandlivefarfromrestraintandtradition；lethimimaginethis，andhewillhavesomeimperfectnotionofthesentimentwithwhichspiritedEnglishyouthsturntothethoughtoftheAmericanRepublic。Itseemstothemasif，outwest，thewaroflifewasstillconductedintheopenair，andonfreebarbaricterms；asifithadnotyetbeennarrowedintoparlours，norbeguntobeconducted，likesomeunjustanddrearyarbitration，bycompromise，costumeformsofprocedure，andsad，senselessself—denial。Whichofthesetwoheprefers，amanwithanyyouthstillleftinhimwilldeciderightlyforhimself。Hewouldratherbehouselessthandeniedapass—key；
rathergowithoutfoodthanpartakeofstalledoxinstiff，respectablesociety；ratherbeshotoutofhandthandirecthislifeaccordingtothedictatesoftheworld。
HeknowsorthinksnothingoftheMaineLaws，thePuritansourness，thefierce，sordidappetitefordollars，orthedrearyexistenceofcountrytowns。Afewwildstory—bookswhichdelightedhischildhoodformtheimaginativebasisofhispictureofAmerica。Incourseoftime，thereisaddedtothisagreatcrowdofstimulatingdetails—
vastcitiesthatgrowupasbyenchantment；thebirds，thathavegonesouthinautumn，returningwiththespringtofindthousandscampedupontheirmarshes，andthelampsburningfarandnearalongpopulousstreets；foreststhatdisappearlikesnow；countrieslargerthanBritainthatareclearedandsettled，onemanrunningforthwithhishouseholdgodsbeforeanother，whilethebearandtheIndianareyetscarceawareoftheirapproach；oilthatgushesfromtheearth；goldthatiswashedorquarriedinthebrooksorglensoftheSierras；andallthatbustle，courage，action，andconstantkaleidoscopicchangethatWaltWhitmanhasseizedandsetforthinhisvigorous，cheerful，andloquaciousverses。
HereIwasatlastinAmerica，andwassoonoutuponNewYorkstreets，spyingforthingsforeign。TheplacehadtomeanairofLiverpool；butsuchwastherainthatnotParadiseitselfwouldhavelookedinviting。Wewereapartyoffour，undertwoumbrellas；JonesandIandtwoScotslads，recentimmigrants，andnotindisposedtowelcomeacompatriot。TheyhadbeensixweeksinNewYork，andneitherofthemhadyetfoundasinglejoborearnedasinglehalfpenny。Uptothepresenttheywereexactlyoutofpocketbytheamountofthefare。
Theladssoonleftus。NowIhadswornbyallmygodstohavesuchadinneraswouldrousethedead；therewasscarceanyexpenseatwhichIshouldhavehesitated；thedevilwasinit，butJonesandIshoulddinelikeheathenemperors。Isettowork，askingafterarestaurant；andIchosethewealthiestandmostgastronomical—lookingpassers—bytoaskfrom。Yet，althoughIhadtoldthemIwaswillingtopayanythinginreason，oneandallsentmeofftocheap，fixed—
pricehouses，whereIwouldnothaveeatenthatnightforthecostoftwentydinners。IdonotknowifthiswerecharacteristicofNewYork，orwhetheritwasonlyJonesandIwholookedun—dinerlyanddiscouragedenterprisingsuggestions。Butatlength，byourownsagacity，wefoundaFrenchrestaurant，wheretherewasaFrenchwaiter，somefairFrenchcooking，someso—calledFrenchwine，andFrenchcoffeetoconcludethewhole。IneverenteredintothefeelingsofJackonlandsocompletelyaswhenItastedthatcoffee。
Isupposewehadoneofthe’privateroomsforfamilies’atReunionHouse。Itwasverysmall，furnishedwithabed，achair，andsomeclothes—pegs；anditderivedallthatwasnecessaryforthelifeofthehumananimalthroughtwoborrowedlights；onelookingintothepassage，andthesecondopening，withoutsash，intoanotherapartment，wherethreemenfitfullysnored，orinintervalsofwakefulness，drearilymumbledtoeachotherallnightlong。ItwillbeobservedthatthiswasalmostexactlythedispositionoftheroominM’Naughten’sstory。Joneshadthebed；Ipitchedmycampuponthefloor；hedidnotsleepuntilnearmorning，andI，formypart，neverclosedaneye。
AtsunriseIheardacannonfired；andshortlyafterwardsthemeninthenextroomgaveoversnoringforgood，andbegantorustleovertheirtoilettes。Thesoundoftheirvoicesastheytalkedwaslowandlikethatofpeoplewatchingbythesick。Jones，whohadatlastbeguntodoze，tumbledandmurmured，andeverynowandthenopenedunconsciouseyesuponmewhereIlay。Ifoundmyselfgrowingeerierandeerier，forIdaresayIwasalittlefeveredbymyrestlessnight，andhurriedtodressandgetdownstairs。
Youhadtopassthroughtherain，whichstillfellthickandresonant，toreachalavatoryontheothersideofthecourt。Therewerethreebasin—stands，andafewcrumpledtowelsandpiecesofwetsoap，whiteandslipperylikefish；norshouldIforgetalooking—
glassandapairofquestionablecombs。AnotherScotsladwashere，scrubbinghisfacewithagoodwill。HehadbeenthreemonthsinNewYorkandhadnotyetfoundasinglejobnorearnedasinglehalfpenny。Uptothepresent，healsowasexactlyoutofpocketbytheamountofthefare。Ibegantogrowsickatheartformyfellow—
emigrants。
OfmynightmarewanderingsinNewYorkIsparetotell。Ihadathousandandonethingstodo；onlythedaytodothemin，andajourneyacrossthecontinentbeforemeintheevening。Itrainedwithpatientfury；everynowandthenIhadtogetundercoverforawhileinorder，sotospeak，togivemymackintosharest；forunderthiscontinueddrenchingitbegantogrowdampontheinside。Iwenttobanks，post—offices，railway—offices，restaurants，publishers，booksellers，money—changers，andwhereverIwentapoolwouldgatheraboutmyfeet，andthosewhowerecarefuloftheirfloorswouldlookonwithanunfriendlyeye。WhereverIwent，too，thesametraitsstruckme：thepeoplewereallsurprisinglyrudeandsurprisinglykind。Themoney—changercross—questionedmelikeaFrenchcommissary，askingmyage，mybusiness，myaverageincome，andmydestination，beatingdownmyattemptsatevasion，andreceivingmyanswersinsilence；andyetwhenallwasover，heshookhandswithmeuptotheelbows，andsenthisladnearlyaquarterofamileintheraintogetmebooksatareduction。Again，inaverylargepublishingandbooksellingestablishment，aman，whoseemedtohethemanager，receivedmeasIhadcertainlyneverbeforebeenreceivedinanyhumanshop，indicatedsquarelythatheputnofaithinmyhonesty，andrefusedtolookupthenamesofbooksorgivemetheslightesthelporinformation，ontheground，likethesteward，thatitwasnoneofhisbusiness。Ilostmytemperatlast，saidIwasastrangerinAmericaandnotlearnedintheiretiquette；butIwouldassurehim，ifhewenttoanybooksellerinEngland，ofmorehandsomeusage。Theboastwasperhapsexaggerated；butlikemanyalongshot，itstruckthegold。Themanagerpassedatoncefromoneextremetotheother；Imaysaythatfromthatmomentheloadedmewithkindness；hegavemeallsortsofgoodadvice，wrotemedownaddresses，andcamebareheadedintotheraintopointmeoutarestaurant，whereImightlunch，noreventhendidheseemtothinkthathehaddoneenough。Theseare（itisaswelltobeboldinstatement）themannersofAmerica。Itisthissameoppositionthathasmoststruckmeinpeopleofalmostallclassesandfromeasttowest。Bythetimeamanhadaboutstrungmeuptobethedeathofhimbyhisinsultingbehaviour，hehimselfwouldbejustuponthepointofmeltingintoconfidenceandserviceableattentions。YetI
suspect，althoughIhavemetwiththelikeinsomanyparts，thatthismustbethecharacterofsomeparticularstateorgroupofstates，forinAmerica，andthisagaininallclasses，youwillfindsomeofthesoftest—manneredgentlemenintheworld。
IwassowetwhenIgotbacktoMitchell’stowardtheevening，thatI
hadsimplytodivestmyselfofmyshoes，socks，andtrousers，andleavethembehindforthebenefitofNewYorkcity。NofirecouldhavedriedthemereIhadtostart；andtopackthemintheirpresentconditionwastospreadruinamongmyotherpossessions。WithaheavyheartIsaidfarewelltothemastheylayapulpinthemiddleofapooluponthefloorofMitchell’skitchen。Iwonderiftheyaredrybynow。Mitchellhiredamantocarrymybaggagetothestation，whichwashardby，accompaniedmethitherhimself，andrecommendedmetotheparticularattentionoftheofficials。Noonecouldhavebeenkinder。ThosewhoareoutofpocketmaygosafelytoReunionHouse，wheretheywillgetdecentmealsandfindanhonestandobliginglandlord。Iowedhimthiswordofthanks，beforeIenterfairlyonthesecondandfarlessagreeablechapterofmyemigrantexperience。
CHAPTERII—COCKERMOUTHANDKESWICK—AFRAGMENT—1871
VERYmuchasapainterhalfcloseshiseyessothatsomesalientunitymaydisengageitselffromamongthecrowdofdetails，andwhatheseesmaythusformitselfintoawhole；verymuchonthesameprinciple，Imaysay，Iallowaconsiderablelapseoftimetointervenebetweenanyofmylittlejourneyingsandtheattempttochroniclethem。Icannotdescribeathingthatisbeforemeatthemoment，orthathasbeenbeforemeonlyaverylittlewhilebefore；I
mustallowmyrecollectionstogetthoroughlystrainedfreefromallchafftillnothingbeexceptthepuregold；allowmymemorytochooseoutwhatistrulymemorablebyaprocessofnaturalselection；andI
piouslybelievethatinthiswayIensuretheSurvivaloftheFittest。IfImakenotesforfutureuse，orifIamobligedtowritelettersduringthecourseofmylittleexcursion，IsointerferewiththeprocessthatIcanneveragainfindoutwhatisworthyofbeingpreserved，orwhatshouldbegiveninfulllength，whatintorso，orwhatmerelyinprofile。Thisprocessofincubationmaybeunreasonablyprolonged；andIamsomewhatafraidthatIhavemadethismistakewiththepresentjourney。Likeabaddaguerreotype，greatpartofithasbeenentirelylost；Icantellyounothingaboutthebeginningandnothingabouttheend；butthedoingsofsomefiftyorsixtyhoursaboutthemiddleremainquitedistinctanddefinite，likealittlepatchofsunshineonalong，shadowyplain，ortheonespotonanoldpicturethathasbeenrestoredbythedexteroushandofthecleaner。IrememberataleofanoldScotsministercalleduponsuddenlytopreach，whohadhastilysnatchedanoldsermonoutofhisstudyandfoundhimselfinthepulpitbeforehenoticedthattheratshadbeenmakingfreewithhismanuscriptandeatenthefirsttwoorthreepagesaway；hegravelyexplainedtothecongregationhowhefoundhimselfsituated：’Andnow，’saidhe，’letusjustbeginwheretheratshaveleftoff。’Imustfollowthedivine’sexample，andtakeupthethreadofmydiscoursewhereitfirstdistinctlyissuesfromthelimboofforgetfulness。
COCKERMOUTH
IwaslightingmypipeasIsteppedoutoftheinnatCockermouth，anddidnotraisemyheaduntilIwasfairlyinthestreet。WhenI
didso，itflasheduponmethatIwasinEngland；theeveningsunlightlitupEnglishhouses，Englishfaces，anEnglishconformationofstreet，—asitwere，anEnglishatmosphereblewagainstmyface。Thereisnothingperhapsmorepuzzling（ifonethinginsociologycaneverreallybemoreunaccountablethananother）thanthegreatgulfthatissetbetweenEnglandandScotland—agulfsoeasyinappearance，inrealitysodifficulttotraverse。
Herearetwopeoplealmostidenticalinblood；pentuptogetherononesmallisland，sothattheirintercourse（onewouldhavethought）
mustbeascloseasthatofprisonerswhosharedonecelloftheBastille；thesameinlanguageandreligion；andyetafewyearsofquarrelsomeisolation—amereforenoon’stiff，asonemaycallit，incomparisonwiththegreathistoricalcycles—hassoseparatedtheirthoughtsandwaysthatnotunions，notmutualdangers，norsteamers，norrailways，noralltheking’shorsesandalltheking’smen，seemabletoobliteratethebroaddistinction。Inthetriturationofanothercenturyorsothecornersmaydisappear；butinthemeantime，intheyearofgrace1871，IwasasmuchinanewcountryasifIhadbeenwalkingoutoftheHotelSt。AntoineatAntwerp。
IfeltalittlethrillofpleasureatmyheartasIrealisedthechange，andstrolledawayupthestreetwithmyhandsbehindmyback，notinginadull，sensualwayhowforeign，andyethowfriendly，weretheslopesofthegablesandthecolourofthetiles，andeventhedemeanourandvoicesofthegossipsroundaboutme。
Wanderinginthisaimlesshumour，Iturnedupalaneandfoundmyselffollowingthecourseofthebrightlittleriver。Ipassedfirstoneandthenanother，thenathird，severalcouplesoutlove—makinginthespringevening；andaconsequentfeelingoflonelinesswasbeginningtogrowuponme，whenIcametoadamacrosstheriver，andamill—agreat，gauntpromontoryofbuilding，—halfondrygroundandhalfarchedoverthestream。Theroadheredrewinitsshouldersandcreptthroughbetweenthelandwardextremityofthemillandalittlegardenenclosure，withasmallhouseandalargesignboardwithinitsprivethedge。Iwaspleasedtofancythisaninn，anddrewlittleetchingsinfancyofasandedparlour，andthree—corneredspittoons，andasocietyofparochialgossipsseatedwithinovertheirchurchwardens；butasIdrewnear，theboarddisplayeditssuperscription，andIcouldreadthenameofSmethurst，andthedesignationof’CanadianFeltHatManufacturers。’Therewasnomorehopeofeveningfellowship，andIcouldonlystrollonbytheriver—
side，underthetrees。Thewaterwasdappledwithslantingsunshine，anddustedalloverwithalittlemistofflyinginsects。Thereweresomeamorousducks，also，whoselovemakingremindedmeofwhatIhadseenalittlefartherdown。Buttheroadgrewsad，andIgrewweary；
andasIwasperpetuallyhauntedwiththeterrorofareturnofthetiethathadbeenplayingsuchruininmyheadaweekago，Iturnedandwentbacktotheinn，andsupper，andmybed。
Thenextmorning，atbreakfast，IcommunicatedtothesmartwaitressmyintentionofcontinuingdownthecoastandthroughWhitehaventoFurness，and，asImighthaveexpected，Iwasinstantlyconfrontedbythatlastandmostworryingformofinterference，thatchoosestointroducetraditionandauthorityintothechoiceofaman’sownpleasures。Icanexcuseapersoncombatingmyreligiousorphilosophicalheresies，becausethemIhavedeliberatelyaccepted，andamreadytojustifybypresentargument。ButIdonotseektojustifymypleasures。IfIprefertamescenerytogrand，alittlehotsunshineoverlowlandparksandwoodlandstothewaroftheelementsroundthesummitofMontBlanc；orifIpreferapipeofmildtobacco，andthecompanyofoneortwochosencompanions，toaballwhereIfeelmyselfveryhot，awkward，andweary，Imerelystatethesepreferencesasfacts，anddonotseektoestablishthemasprinciples。Thisisnotthegeneralrule，however，andaccordinglythewaitresswasshocked，asonemightbeataheresy，toheartheroutethatIhadsketchedoutformyself。EverybodywhocametoCockermouthforpleasure，itappeared，wentontoKeswick。ItwasinvainthatIputupalittlepleaforthelibertyofthesubject；itwasinvainthatIsaidIshouldprefertogotoWhitehaven。Iwastoldthattherewas’nothingtoseethere’—thatweary，hackneyed，oldfalsehood；andatlast，asthehandmaidenbegantolookreallyconcerned，Igaveway，asmenalwaysdoinsuchcircumstances，andagreedthatIwastoleaveforKeswickbyatrainintheearlyevening。
ANEVANGELIST
Cockermouthitself，onthesameauthority，wasaPlacewith’nothingtosee’；neverthelessIsawagooddeal，andretainapleasant，vaguepictureofthetownandallitssurroundings。Imighthavedodgedhappilyenoughalldayaboutthemainstreetanduptothecastleandinandoutofbyways，butthecuriousattractionthatleadsapersoninastrangeplacetofollow，dayafterday，thesameround，andtomakesethabitsforhimselfinaweekortendays，ledmehalfunconsciouslyupthesame，roadthatIhadgonetheeveningbefore。
WhenIcameuptothehatmanufactory，Smethursthimselfwasstandinginthegardengate。HewasbrushingoneCanadianfelthat，andseveralothershadbeenputtoawaittheirturnoneabovetheotheronhisownhead，sothathelookedsomethinglikethetypicalJewold—clothesman。AsIdrewnear，hecamesidlingoutofthedoorwaytoaccostme，withsocuriousanexpressiononhisfacethatI
instinctivelypreparedmyselftoapologiseforsomeunwittingtrespass。Hisfirstquestionratherconfirmedmeinthisbelief，foritwaswhetherornothehadseenmegoingupthiswaylastnight；
andafterhavingansweredintheaffirmative，Iwaitedinsomealarmfortherestofmyindictment。Butthegoodman’sheartwasfullofpeace；andhestoodtherebrushinghishatsandprattlingonaboutfishing，andwalking，andthepleasuresofconvalescence，inabrightshallowstreamthatkeptmepleasedandinterested，Icouldscarcelysayhow。Ashewenton，hewarmedtohissubject，andlaidhishatsasidetogoalongthewater—sideandshowmewherethelargetroutcommonlylay，underneathanoverhangingbank；andhewasmuchdisappointed，formysake，thattherewerenonevisiblejustthen。
Thenhewanderedoffontoanothertack，andstoodagreatwhileoutinthemiddleofameadowinthehotsunshine，tryingtomakeoutthathehadknownmebefore，or，ifnotme，somefriendofmine，merely，Ibelieve，outofadesirethatweshouldfeelmorefriendlyandatoureasewithoneanother。Atlasthemadealittlespeechtome，ofwhichIwishIcouldrecollecttheverywords，fortheyweresosimpleandunaffectedthattheyputallthebestwritingandspeakingtotheblush；asitis，Icanrecallonlythesense，andthatperhapsimperfectly。Hebeganbysayingthathehadlittlethingsinhispastlifethatitgavehimespecialpleasuretorecall；
andthatthefacultyofreceivingsuchsharpimpressionshadnowdiedoutinhimself，butmustatmyagebestillquitelivelyandactive。
Thenhetoldmethathehadalittleraftafloatontheriverabovethedamwhichhewasgoingtolendme，inorderthatImightbeabletolookback，inafteryears，uponhavingdoneso，andgetgreatpleasurefromtherecollection。Now，Ihaveafriendofmyownwhowillforgopresentenjoymentsandsuffermuchpresentinconvenienceforthesakeofmanufacturing’areminiscence’forhimself；buttherewassomethingsingularlyrefinedinthispleasurethatthehatmakerfoundinmakingreminiscencesforothers；surelynomoresimpleorunselfishluxurycanbeimagined。Afterhehadunmooredhislittleembarkation，andseenmesafelyshovedoffintomidstream，heranawaybacktohishatswiththeairofamanwhohadonlyjustrecollectedthathehadanythingtodo。
Ididnotstayverylongontheraft。Itoughttohavebeenverynicepuntingaboutthereinthecoolshadeofthetrees，orsittingmooredtoanover—hangingroot；butperhapstheverynotionthatI
wasboundingratitudespeciallytoenjoymylittlecruise，andcherishitsrecollection，turnedthewholethingfromapleasureintoaduty。Bethatasitmay，thereisnodoubtthatIsoonweariedandcameashoreagain，andthatitgivesmemorepleasuretorecallthemanhimselfandhissimple，happyconversation，sofullofgustoandsympathy，thananythingpossiblyconnectedwithhiscrank，insecureembarkation。Inordertoavoidseeinghim，forIwasnotalittleashamedofmyselfforhavingfailedtoenjoyhistreatsufficiently，Ideterminedtocontinueuptheriver，and，atallprices，tofindsomeotherwaybackintothetownintimefordinner。AsIwent，I
wasthinkingofSmethurstwithadmiration；alookintothatman’smindwaslikearetrospectoverthesmilingchampaignofhispastlife，andverydifferentfromtheSinai—gorgesupwhichonelooksforaterrifiedmomentintothedarksoulsofmanygood，manywise，andmanyprudentmen。Icannotbeverygratefultosuchmenfortheirexcellence，andwisdom，andprudence。IfindmyselffacingasstoutlyasIcanahard，combativeexistence，fullofdoubt，difficulties，defeats，disappointments，anddangers，quiteahardenoughlifewithouttheirdarkcountenancesatmyelbow，sothatwhatIwantisahappy—mindedSmethurstplacedhereandthereatuglycornersofmylife’swayside，preachinghisgospelofquietandcontentment。
ANOTHER
Iwasshortlytomeetwithanevangelistofanotherstamp。AfterI
hadforcedmywaythroughagentleman’sgrounds，Icameoutonthehighroad，andsatdowntorestmyselfonaheapofstonesatthetopofalonghill，withCockermouthlyingsnuglyatthebottom。AnIrishbeggar—woman，withabeautifullittlegirlbyherside，cameuptoaskforalms，andgraduallyfelltotellingmethelittletragedyofherlife。Herownsister，shetoldme，hadseducedherhusbandfromheraftermanyyearsofmarriedlife，andthepairhadfled，leavingherdestitute，withthelittlegirluponherhands。Sheseemedquitehopefulandcheery，and，thoughshewasunaffectedlysorryforthelossofherhusband’searnings，shemadenopretenceofdespairatthelossofhisaffection；somedayshewouldmeetthefugitives，andthelawwouldseeherdulyrighted，andinthemeantimethesmallestcontributionwasgratefullyreceived。Whileshewastellingallthisinthemostmatter—of—factway，Ihadbeennoticingtheapproachofatallman，withahighwhitehatanddarkishclothes。Hecameupthehillatarapidpace，andjoinedourlittlegroupwithasortofhalf—salutation。Turningatoncetothewoman，heaskedherinabusiness—likewaywhethershehadanythingtodo，whethershewereaCatholicoraProtestant，whethershecouldread，andsoforth；andthen，afterafewkindwordsandsomesweetiestothechild，hedespatchedthemotherwithsometractsaboutBiddyandthePriest，andtheOrangeman’sBible。Iwasalittleamusedathisabruptmanner，forhewasstillayoungman，andhadsomewhattheairofanavyofficer；buthetackledmewithgreatsolemnity。Icouldmakefunofwhathesaid，forIdonotthinkitwasverywise；butthesubjectdoesnotappeartomejustnowinajestinglight，soIshallonlysaythatherelatedtomehisownconversion，whichhadbeeneffected（asisveryoftenthecase）
throughtheagencyofagigaccident，andthat，afterhavingexaminedmeanddiagnosedmycase，heselectedsomesuitabletractsfromhisrepertory，gavethemtome，and，biddingmeGod—speed，wentonhisway。
LASTOFSMETHURST
ThateveningIgotintoathird—classcarriageonmywayforKeswick，andwasfollowedalmostimmediatelybyaburlymaninbrownclothes。
Thisfellow—passengerwasseeminglyillatease，andkeptcontinuallyputtinghisheadoutofthewindow，andaskingthebystandersiftheysawHIMcoming。Atlast，whenthetrainwasalreadyinmotion，therewasacommotionontheplatform，andawaywasleftcleartoourcarriagedoor。HEhadarrived。InthehurryIcouldjustseeSmethurst，redandpanting，thrustacoupleofclaypipesintomycompanion’soutstretchedband，andhearhimcryinghisfarewellsafterusasweslippedoutofthestationataneveracceleratingpace。Isaidsomethingaboutitbeingacloserun，andthebroadman，alreadyengagedinfillingoneofthepipes，assented，andwentontotellmeofhisownstupidityinforgettinganecessary，andofhowhisfriendhadgood—naturedlygonedowntownatthelastmomenttosupplytheomission。ImentionedthatIhadseenMr。Smethurstalready，andthathehadbeenverypolitetome；andwefellintoadiscussionofthehatter’smeritsthatlastedsometimeandleftusquitegoodfriendsatitsconclusion。Thetopicwasproductiveofgoodwill。Weexchangedtobaccoandtalkedabouttheseason，andagreedatlastthatweshouldgotothesamehotelatKeswickandsupincompany。Ashehadsomebusinessinthetownwhichwouldoccupyhimsomehourorso，onourarrivalIwastoimprovethetimeandgodowntothelake，thatImightseeaglimpseofthepromisedwonders。
ThenighthadfallenalreadywhenIreachedthewater—side，ataplacewheremanypleasure—boatsaremooredandreadyforhire；andasIwentalongastonypath，betweenwoodandwater，astrongwindblewingustsfromthefarendofthelake。Theskywascoveredwithflyingscud；and，asthiswasragged，therewasquiteawildchaseofshadowandmoon—glimpseoverthesurfaceoftheshudderingwater。I
hadtoholdmyhaton，andwasgrowingrathertired，andinclinedtogobackindisgust，whenalittleincidentoccurredtobreakthetedium。Asuddenandviolentsquallofwindsunderedthelowunderwood，andatthesametimetherecameoneofthosebriefdischargesofmoonlight，whichleapedintotheopeningthusmade，andshowedmethreegirlsintheprettiestflutteranddisorder。Itwasasthoughtheyhadsprungoutoftheground。Iaccostedthemverypolitelyinmycapacityofstranger，andrequestedtobetoldthenamesofallmannerofhillsandwoodsandplacesthatIdidnotwishtoknow，andwestoodtogetherforawhileandhadanamusinglittletalk。Thewind，too，madehimselfoftheparty，broughtthecolourintotheirfaces，andgavethemenoughtodotorepresstheirdrapery；andoneofthem，amidmuchgiggling，hadtopirouetteroundandrounduponhertoes（asgirlsdo）whensomespeciallystronggusthadgottheadvantageoverher。Theywerejusthighenoughupinthesocialordernottobeafraidtospeaktoagentleman；andjustlowenoughtofeelalittletremor，anervousconsciousnessofwrong—
doing—ofstolenwaters，thatgaveaconsiderablezesttoourmostinnocentinterview。Theywereasmuchdiscomposedandfluttered，indeed，asifIhadbeenawickedbaronproposingtoelopewiththewholetrio；buttheyshowednoinclinationtogoaway，andIhadmanagedtogetthemoffhillsandwaterfallsandontomorepromisingsubjects，whenayoungmanwasdescriedcomingalongthepathfromthedirectionofKeswick。Nowwhetherhewastheyoungmanofoneofmyfriends，orthebrotherofoneofthem，orindeedthebrotherofall，Idonotknow；buttheyincontinentlysaidthattheymustbegoing，andwentawayupthepathwithfriendlysalutations。IneednotsaythatIfoundthelakeandthemoonlightratherdullaftertheirdeparture，andspeedilyfoundmywaybacktopottedherringsandwhisky—and—waterinthecommercialroomwithmylatefellow—
traveller。Inthesmoking—roomtherewasatalldarkmanwithamoustache，inanulstercoat，whohadgotthebestplaceandwasmonopolisingmostofthetalk；and，asIcamein，awhispercameroundtomefrombothsides，thatthiswasthemanagerofaLondontheatre。ThepresenceofsuchamanwasagreateventforKeswick，andImustownthatthemanagershowedhimselfequaltohisposition。