AndnowIleavemysubject,notwithoutmisgivingthatIshallhavedisappointedyou。ButforthegreatattentionwhichisbeingpaidtotheworkfromwhichIhavequotedabove,Ishouldnothavethoughtitwelltoinsistonpointswithwhichyouare,Idoubtnot,asfullyimpressedasIam:butthatbookweakensthesanctionsofnaturalreligion,andminimisesthecomfortwhichitaffordsus,whileitdoesmoretounderminethantosupportthefoundationsofwhatiscommonlycalledbelief。ThereforeIwasgladtoembracethisopportunityofprotesting。OtherwiseIshouldnothavebeensoseriousonamatterthattranscendsallseriousness。LordBeaconsfieldcutitshorterwithmoreeffect。Whenaskedtogivearuleoflifeforthesonofafriendhesaid,\"DonotlethimtryandfindoutwhowrotethelettersofJunius。\"Pressedforfurthercounselheadded,\"Noryetwhowasthemanintheironmask\"——andhewouldsaynomore。Don’tborepeople。AndyetIambynomeanssurethatagoodmanypeopledonotthinkthemselvesill-usedunlesshewhoaddressesthemhasthoroughlywellboredthem——especiallyiftheyhavepaidanymoneyforhearinghim。Mygreatnamesakesaid,\"Surelythepleasureisasgreatofbeingcheatedastocheat,\"andgreatasthepleasurebothofcheatingandboringundoubtedlyis,I
believehewasright。SoIrememberapoemwhichcameoutsomethirtyyearsagoinPunch,aboutayoungladywhowentforthinquestto\"Someburdenmakeorburdenbear,butwhichshedidnotgreatlycare,ohMiserie。\"So,again,alltheholymenandwomenwhointheMiddleAgesprofessedtohavediscoveredhowtomakethebestoflifetookcarethatbeingbored,ifnotcheated,shouldhavealargeplaceintheirprogramme。Stilltherearelimits,andI
closenotwithoutfearthatImayhaveexceededthem。
THESANCTUARYOFMONTRIGONE{6}
TheonlyplaceintheValsesia,exceptVarallo,whereIatpresentsuspectthepresenceofTabachetti{7}isatMontrigone,alittle-
knownsanctuarydedicatedtoSt。Anne,aboutthree-quartersofamilesouthofBorgo-Sesiastation。Thesituationis,ofcourse,lovely,butthesanctuarydoesnotofferanyfeaturesofarchitecturalinterest。Thesacristantoldmeitwasfoundedin1631;andin1644Giovannid’Enrico,whileengagedinsuperintendingandcompletingtheworkundertakenherebyhimselfandGiacomoFerro,fellillanddied。Idonotknowwhetherornotherewasanearliersanctuaryonthesamesite,butwastolditwasbuiltonthedemolitionofastrongholdbelongingtotheCountsofBiandrate。
TheincidentswhichitillustratesaretreatedwithevenmorethanthehomelinessusualinworksofthisdescriptionwhennotdealingwithsuchsolemneventsasthedeathandpassionofChrist。Exceptwhenthesesubjectswerebeingrepresented,somethingofthelatitude,andevenhumour,allowedintheoldmysteryplayswaspermitted,doubtlessfromadesiretorendertheworkmoreattractivetothepeasants,whowerethemostnumerousandmostimportantpilgrims。Itisnotuntilfaithbeginstobeweakthatitfearsanoccasionallylightertreatmentofsemi-sacredsubjects,anditisimpossibletoconveyanaccurateideaofthespiritprevailingatthishamletofsanctuarywithoutattuningoneselfsomewhattothemorepagancharacteroftheplace。Ofirreverence,inthesenseofadesiretolaughatthingsthatareofhighandseriousimport,thereisnotatrace,butatthesametimethereisacertainunbendingofthebowatMontrigonewhichisnotperceivableatVarallo。
ThefirstchapeltotheleftonenteringthechurchisthatoftheBirthoftheVirgin。St。Anneissittingupinbed。Sheisnotatallill——infact,consideringthattheVirginhasonlybeenbornaboutfiveminutes,sheiswonderful;stillthedoctorsthinkitmaybeperhapsbetterthatsheshouldkeepherroomforhalfanhourlonger,sothebedhasbeenfestoonedwithredandwhitepaperroses,andthecounterpaneiscoveredwithbouquetsinbasketsandinvasesofglassandchina。ThesecannothavebeenthereduringtheactualbirthoftheVirgin,soIsupposetheyhadbeeninreadiness,andwerebroughtinfromanadjoiningroomassoonasthebabyhadbeenborn。Aladyonherleftisbringinginsomemoreflowers,whichSt。Anneisreceivingwithasmileandmostgraciousgestureofthehands。Thefirstthingsheaskedfor,whenthebirthwasover,wasforherthreesilverhearts。Thesewereimmediatelybroughttoher,andshehasgotthemallon,tiedroundherneckwithapieceofbluesilkribbon。
Dearmammahascome。Wefeltsureshewould,andthatanylittlemisunderstandingsbetweenherandJoachimwoulderelongbeforgottenandforgiven。Theyarebothsogoodandsensibleiftheywouldonlyunderstandoneanother。Atanyrate,heresheis,inhighstateattherighthandofthebed。Sheisdressedinblack,forshehaslostherhusbandsomefewyearspreviously,butIdonotbelieveasmarter,sprieroldladyforheryearscouldbefoundinPalestine,noryetthateitherGiovannid’EnricoorGiacomoFerrocouldhaveconceivedorexecutedsuchacharacter。Thesacristanwantedtohaveitthatshewasnotawomanatall,butwasaportraitofSt。Joachim,theVirgin’sfather。\"Sembraunadonna,\"
hepleadedmorethanonce,\"manonedonna。\"Surely,however,inworksofartevenmorethaninotherthings,thereisno\"is\"butseeming,andifafigureseemsfemaleitmustbetakenassuch。
Besides,IaskedoneoftheleadingdoctorsatVarallowhetherthefigurewasmanorwoman。HesaiditwasevidentIwasnotmarried,forthatifIhadbeenIshouldhaveseenatoncethatshewasnotonlyawomanbutamother-in-lawofthefirstmagnitude,or,ashecalledit,\"unasuoceratremenda,\"andthiswithoutknowingthatI
wantedhertobeamother-in-lawmyself。Unfortunatelyshehadnorealdrapery,soIcouldnotsettlethequestionasmyfriendMr。H。
F。JonesandIhadbeenabletodoatVarallowiththefigureofEvethathadbeenturnedintoaRomansoldierassistingatthecaptureofChrist。Iamnot,however,disposedtowastemoretimeuponanythingsoobvious,andwillcontentmyselfwithsayingthatwehaveheretheVirgin’sgrandmother。Ihadneverhadthepleasure,sofarasIremembered,ofmeetingthisladybefore,andwasgladtohaveanopportunityofmakingheracquaintance。
TraditionsaysthatitwasshewhochosetheVirgin’sname,andifso,whatadebtofgratitudedowenotoweherforherjudiciousselection!ItmakesoneshuddertothinkwhatmighthavehappenedifshehadnamedthechildKeren-Happuch,aspoorJob’sdaughterwascalled。Howcouldwehavesaid,\"AveKeren-Happuch!\"Whatwouldthemusicianshavedone?IforgetwhetherMaher-Shalal-Hash-Bazwasamanorawoman,buttherewereplentyofnamesquiteasunmanageableattheVirgin’sgrandmother’soption,andwecannotsufficientlythankherforhavingchosenonethatissoeuphoniousineverylanguagewhichweneedtakeintoaccount。Forthisreasonaloneweshouldnotgrudgeherherportrait,butweshouldtrytodrawthelinehere。IdonotthinkweoughttogivetheVirgin’sgreat-grandmotherastatue。Whereisittoend?ItislikeMr。
Crookes’sultimissimateatoms;weusedtodrawthelineatultimateatoms,andnowitseemswearetogoastepfartherbackandhaveultimissimateatoms。Howlong,Iwonder,willitbebeforewefeelthatitwillbeamaterialhelptoustohaveultimissimissimateatoms?Quaversstoppedatdemi-semi-demi,butthereisnoreasontosupposethateitheratomsorancestressesoftheVirginwillbesocomplacent。
IhavesaidthatonSt。Anne’slefthandthereisaladywhoisbringinginsomeflowers。St。Annewasalwayspassionatelyfondofflowers。ThereisaprettystorytoldaboutherinoneoftheFathers,Iforgetwhich,totheeffectthatwhenachildshewasaskedwhichshelikedbest——cakesorflowers?Shecouldnotyetspeakplainlyandlispedout,\"Ohfowses,prettyfowses\";sheadded,however,withasighandasakindofwistfulcorollary,\"butcakesareverynice。\"Sheisnottohaveanycakes,justnow,butassoonasshehasdonethankingtheladyforherbeautifulnosegay,sheistohaveacoupleofnicenew-laideggs,thatarebeingbroughtherbyanotherlady。Valsesianwomenimmediatelyaftertheirconfinementalwayshaveeggsbeatenupwithwineandsugar,andonecantellaValsesianBirthoftheVirginfromaVenetianoraFlorentinebythepresenceoftheeggs。IlearnedthisfromaneminentValsesianprofessorofmedicine,whotoldmethat,thoughnotaccordingtoreceivedrules,theeggsneverseemedtodoanyharm。Heretheyareevidentlytobebeatenup,forthereisneitherspoonnoregg-cup,andwecannotsupposethattheywerehard-boiled。
Ontheotherhand,intheMiddleAgesItaliansneverusedegg-cupsandspoonsforboiledeggs。Themediaevalboiledeggwasalwayseatenbydippingbreadintotheyolk。
Behindtheladywhoisbringingintheeggsistheunder-under-nursewhoisatthefirewarmingatowel。Intheforegroundwehavetheregulationmidwifeholdingtheregulationbaby(who,bytheway,wasanastonishinglyfinechildforonlyfiveminutesold)。Thencomestheunder-nurse——agoodbuxomcreature,who,asusual,isfeelingthewaterinthebathtoseethatitisoftherighttemperature。
Nexttoheristhehead-nurse,whoisarrangingthecradle。Behindthehead-nurseistheunder-under-nurse’sdrudge,whoisjustgoingoutuponsomeerrands。Lastly——forbythistimewehavegotallroundthechapel——wearriveattheVirgin’sgrandmother’s-body-
guard,astately,responsible-lookinglady,standinginwaitinguponhermistress。Iputittothereader——isitconceivablethatSt。
Joachimshouldhavebeenallowedinsucharoomatsuchatime,orthatheshouldhavehadthecouragetoavailhimselfofthepermission,eventhoughithadbeenextendedtohim?Atanyrate,isitconceivablethatheshouldhavebeenallowedtositonSt。
Anne’srighthand,layingdownthelawwitha\"Marry,comeuphere,\"
anda\"Marry,go-downthere,\"andacoupleofsuchunabashedcollarsastheoldladyhasputonfortheoccasion?
Moreover(forImayaswelldemolishthismischievousconfusionbetweenSt。Joachimandhismother-in-lawonceandforall),themeresttyroinhagiologyknowsthatSt。JoachimwasnotathomewhentheVirginwasborn。Hehadbeenhustledoutofthetempleforhavingnochildren,andhadfleddesolateanddismayedintothewilderness。Itshowshowsillypeopleare,forallthetimehewasgoing,iftheyhadonlywaitedalittle,tobethefatherofthemostremarkablepersonofpurelyhumanoriginwhohadeverbeenborn,andsuchaparentasthisshouldsurelynotbehurried。ThestoryistoldinthefrescoesofthechapelofLoreto,onlyaquarterofanhour’swalkfromVarallo,andnoonecanhaveknownitbetterthanD’Enrico。Thefrescoesareexplainedbywrittenpassagesthattellushow,whenJoachimwasinthedesert,anangelcametohimintheguiseofafair,civilyounggentleman,andtoldhimtheVirginwastobeborn。Then,lateron,thesameyounggentlemanappearedtohimagain,andbadehim\"inGod’snamebecomforted,andturnagaintohiscontent,\"fortheVirginhadbeenactuallyborn。OnwhichSt。Joachim,whoseemstohavebeenofopinionthatmarriageafterallWASratherafailure,saidthat,asthingsweregoingonsonicelywithouthim,hewouldstayinthedesertjustalittlelonger,andofferedupalambasapretexttogaintime。Perhapsheguessedabouthismother-in-law,orhemayhaveaskedtheangel。Ofcourse,eveninspiteofsuchevidenceasthisImaybemistakenabouttheVirgin’sgrandmother’ssex,andthesacristanmayberight;butIcanonlysaythatiftheladysittingbySt。Anne’sbedsideatMontrigoneistheVirgin’sfather——well,inthatcaseImustreconsideragooddealthatIhavebeenaccustomedtobelievewasbeyondquestion。
Takensingly,Isupposethatnoneofthefiguresinthechapel,excepttheVirgin’sgrandmother,shouldberatedveryhighly。Theunder-nurseisthenextbestfigure,andmightverywellbeTabachetti’s,forneitherGiovannid’EnriconorGiacomoFerrowassuccessfulwithhisfemalecharacters。ThereisnotasinglereallycomfortablewomaninanychapelbyeitherofthemontheSacroMonteatVarallo。Tabachetti,ontheotherhand,delightedinwomen;iftheywereyounghemadethemcomelyandengaging,iftheywereoldhegavethemdignityandindividualcharacter,andtheunder-nurseismuchmoreinaccordancewithTabachetti’shabitualmentalattitudethanwithD’Enrico’sorGiacomoFerro’s。Stillthereareonlyfourfiguresoutoftheeleventhataremereotiosesupers,andtakingtheworkasawholeitleavesapleasantimpressionasbeingthroughoutnaiveandhomely,andsometimes,whichisoflessimportance,technicallyexcellent。
Allowancemust,ofcourse,bemadefortawdryaccessoriesandrepeatedcoatsofshinyoleaginouspaint——verydisagreeablewhereithaspeeledoffandalmostmoresowhereithasnot。WhatworkcouldstandagainstsuchtreatmentastheValsesianterra-cottafigureshavehadtoputupwith?TaketheVenusofMilo;letherbedoneinterra-cotta,andhaverun,notmuch,butstillsomething,inthebaking;paintherpink,twooils,allover,andthenvarnishher——itwillhelptopreservethepaint;gluealotofhorsehairontoherpate,halfofwhichshallhavecomeoff,leavingthegluestillshowing;scrapeher,nottoothoroughly,getthevillagedrawing-
mastertopaintheragain,andthedrawing-masterinthenextprovincialtowntoputaforestbackgroundbehindherwiththebrightestemerald-greenleavesthathecandoforthemoney;letthispaintingandscrapingandrepaintingberepeatedseveraltimesover;festoonherwithpinkandwhiteflowersmadeoftissuepaper;
surroundherwiththecheapestGermanimitationsofthecheapestdecorationsthatBirminghamcanproduce;letthenightairandwinterfogsgetatherforthreehundredyears,andhoweasy,I
wonder,willitbetoseethegoddesswhowillbestillingreatpartthere?True,inthecaseoftheBirthoftheVirginchapelatMontrigone,thereisnorealhairandnofrescobackground,buttimehashadabundantopportunitieswithoutthese。Iwillconcludemynoticeofthischapelbysayingthatontheleft,abovethedoorthroughwhichtheunder-under-nurse’sdrudgeisabouttopass,thereisagoodpaintedterra-cottabust,said——butIbelieveonnoauthority——tobeaportraitofGiovannid’Enrico。OtherssaythattheVirgin’sgrandmotherisGiovannid’Enrico,butthisisevenmoreabsurdthansupposinghertobeSt。Joachim。
ThenextchapeltotheBirthoftheVirginisthatoftheSposalizio。ThereisnofigureherewhichsuggestsTabachetti,butstilltherearesomeverygoodones。Thebesthavenotaintofbarocco;themanwhodidthem,whoeverhemayhavebeen,hadevidentlyagooddealoflifeandgo,wastakingreasonablepains,anddidnotknowtoomuch。Wherethisisthecasenoworkcanfailtoplease。Someofthefigureshaverealhairandsometerracotta。
Thereisnofrescobackgroundworthmentioning。Amansittingonthestepsofthealtarwithabookonhislap,andholdinguphishandtoanother,whoisleaningoverhimandtalkingtohim,isamongthebestfigures;someofthedisappointedsuitorswhoarebreakingtheirwandsarealsoverygood。
TheangelintheAnnunciationchapel,whichcomesnextinorder,isafine,burly,ship’s-figurehead,commercial-hotelsortofbeingenough,buttheVirginisveryordinary。Thereisnorealhairandnofrescobackground,onlythreedingyoldblisteredpicturesofnointerestwhatever。
InthevisitofMarytoElizabeththerearethreepleasingsubordinateladyattendants,twototheleftandonetotherightoftheprincipalfigures;butthesefiguresthemselvesarenotsatisfactory。Thereisnofrescobackground。Someofthefigureshaverealhairandsometerracotta。
IntheCircumcisionandPurificationchapel——forboththeseeventsseemcontemplatedintheonethatfollows——therearedoves,butthereisneitherdognorknife。StillSimeon,whohastheinfantSaviourinhisarms,islookingathiminawaywhichcanonlymeanthat,knifeornoknife,thematterisnotgoingtoendhere。AtVarallotheyhavenowgotadreadfulknifefortheCircumcisionchapel。Theyhadnonelastwinter。Whattheyhavenowgotwoulddoverywelltokillabullockwith,butcouldnotbeusedprofessionallywithsafetyforanyanimalsmallerthanarhinoceros。
IimaginethatsomeonewassenttoNovaratobuyaknife,andthat,thinkingitwasfortheMassacreoftheInnocentschapel,hegotthebiggesthecouldsee。Thenwhenhebroughtitbackpeoplesaid\"chow\"severaltimes,andputituponthetableandwentaway。
ReturningtoMontrigone,theSimeonisanexcellentfigure,andtheVirginisfairlygood,buttheprophetessAnna,whostandsjustbehindher,isbyfarthemostinterestinginthegroup,andisaloneenoughtomakemefeelsurethatTabachettigavemoreorlesshelphere,ashehaddoneyearsbeforeatOrta。She,too,liketheVirgin’sgrandmother,isawidowlady,andwearscollarsofacutthatseemstohaveprevailedeversincetheVirginwasbornsometwentyyearspreviously。Thereisalargenessandsimplicityoftreatmentaboutthefiguretowhichnonebutanartistofthehighestrankcanreach,andD’Enricowasnotmorethanasecondorthird-rateman。ThehoodislikeHandel’sTruthsailinguponthebroadwingsofTime,apropheticstrainthatnothingbuttheoldexperienceofagreatpoetcanreach。Thelipsoftheprophetessareforthemomentclosed,butshehasbeenprophesyingallthemorning,andthepeopleroundthewallinthebackgroundareinecstasiesattheluciditywithwhichshehasexplainedallsortsofdifficultiesthattheyhadneverbeenabletounderstandtillnow。
Theyareputtingtheirforefingersontheirthumbsandtheirthumbsontheirforefingers,andsayinghowclearlytheyseeitallandwhatawonderfulwomanAnnais。Aprophetindeedisnotgenerallywithouthonoursaveinhisowncountry,butthenacountryisgenerallynotwithouthonoursavewithitsownprophet,andAnnahasbeenglorifyinghercountryratherthanrevilingit。Besides,therulemaynothaveappliedtoprophetesses。
TheDeathoftheVirginisthelastofthesixchapelsinsidethechurchitself。TheApostles,whoofcoursearepresent,haveallofthemrealhair,but,ifImaysayso,theywantawashandabrush-
upsoverybadlythatIcannotfeelanyconfidenceinwritingaboutthem。Ishouldsaythat,takethemallround,theyareagoodaveragesampleofapostleasapostlesgenerallygo。Twoorthreeofthemarenervouslyanxioustofindappropriatequotationsinbooksthatlieopenbeforethem,whichtheyaresearchingwitheagerhaste;butIdonotseeonefigureaboutwhichIshouldliketosaypositivelythatitiseithergoodorbad。Thereisagoodbustofaman,matchingtheoneintheBirthoftheVirginchapel,whichissaidtobeaportraitofGiovannid’Enrico,butitisnotknownwhomitrepresents。
Outsidethechurch,inthreecontiguouscellsthatformpartofthefoundations,are:-
1。AdeadChrist,theheadofwhichisveryimpressivewhiletherestofthefigureispoor。Iexaminedthetreatmentofthehair,whichisterra-cotta,andcompareditwithallotherlikehairinthechapelsabovedescribed;Icouldfindnothinglikeit,andthinkitmostlikelythatGiacomoFerrodidthefigure,andgotTabachettitodothehead,orthattheybroughttheheadfromsomeunusedfigurebyTabachettiatVarallo,forIknownootherartistofthetimeandneighbourhoodwhocouldhavedoneit。
2。AMagdaleneinthedesert。Thedesertisalittlecoal-cellarofanarch,containingaskullandaprofusionofpinkandwhitepaperbouquets,thetwolargestofwhichtheMagdaleneishuggingwhilesheissayingherprayers。Sheisaveryself-sufficientlady,whowemaybesurewillnotstayinthedesertadaylongerthanshecanhelp,andwhiletherewillflirtevenwiththeskullifshecanfindnothingbettertoflirtwith。Icannotthinkthatherrepentanceisasyetgenuine,andasforherprayingthereisnoobjectinherdoingso,forshedoesnotwantanything。
3。InthenextdesertthereisaverybeautifulfigureofSt。JohntheBaptistkneelingandlookingupwards。ThisfigurepuzzlesmemorethananyotheratMontrigone;itappearstobeofthefifteenthratherthanthesixteenthcentury;ithardlyremindsmeofGaudenzio,andstilllessofanyotherValsesianartist。Itisaworkofunusualbeauty,butIcanformnoideaastoitsauthorship。
IwrotetheforegoingpagesinthechurchatMontrigoneitself,havingbroughtmycamp-stoolwithme。ItwasSunday;thechurchwasopenallday,buttherewasnomasssaid,andhardlyanyonecame。
Thesacristanwasakind,gentle,littleoldman,wholetmedowhateverIwanted。Hesatonthedoorstepofthemaindoor,mendingvestments,andtothisendwascuttingupafinepieceoffiguredsilkfromonetotwohundredyearsold,which,ifIcouldhavegotit,forhalfitsvalue,Ishouldmuchliketohavebought。Isatinthecoolofthechurchwhilehesatinthedoorway,whichwasstillinshadow,snippingandsnipping,andthensewing,Iamsurewithadmirableneatness。Hemadeacharmingpicture,withthearchedporticooverhishead,thegreengrassandlowchurchwallbehindhim,andthenalovelylandscapeofwoodandpastureandvalleysandhillside。EverynowandthenhewouldcomeandchirrupaboutJoachim,forhewaspainedandshockedatmyhavingsaidthathisJoachimwassomeoneelseandnotJoachimatall。IsaidIwasverysorry,butIwasafraidthefigurewasawoman。Heaskedmewhathewastodo。Hehadknownit,manandboy,thissixtyyears,andhadalwaysshownitasSt。Joachim;hehadneverheardanyonebutmyselfquestionhisascription,andcouldnotsuddenlychangehismindaboutitatthebiddingofastranger。AtthesametimehefeltitwasaveryseriousthingtocontinueshowingitastheVirgin’sfatherifitwasreallyhergrandmother。ItoldhimI
thoughtthiswasacaseforhisspiritualdirector,andthatifhefeltuncomfortableaboutitheshouldconsulthisparishpriestanddoashewastold。
OnleavingMontrigone,withapleasantsenseofhavingmadeacquaintancewithanewand,inmanyrespects,interestingwork,I
couldnotgetthesacristanandourdifferenceofopinionoutofmyhead。What,Iaskedmyself,arethedifferencesthatunhappilydivideChristendom,andwhatarethosethatdivideChristendomfrommodernschoolsofthought,butaseeingofJoachimsastheVirgin’sgrandmothersonalargerscale?True,wecannotcallfiguresJoachimwhenweknowperfectlywellthattheyarenothingofthekind;butIregisteredavowthathenceforwardwhenIcalledJoachimstheVirgin’sgrandmothersIwouldbearmoreinmindthanI
haveperhapsalwayshithertodone,howharditisforthosewhohavebeentaughttoseethemasJoachimstothinkofthemassomethingdifferent。ItrustthatIhavenotbeenunfaithfultothisvowintheprecedingarticle。Ifthereaderdiffersfromme,letmeaskhimtorememberhowharditisforonewhohasgotafigurewellintohisheadastheVirgin’sgrandmothertoseeitasJoachim。
AMEDIEVALGIRLSCHOOL{8}
ThislastsummerIrevisitedOropa,nearBiella,toseewhatconnectionIcouldfindbetweentheOropachapelsandthoseatVarallo。IwilltakethisopportunityofdescribingthechapelsatOropa,andmoreespeciallytheremarkablefossil,orpetrifiedgirlschool,commonlyknownastheDimora,orSojournoftheVirginMaryintheTemple。
IfIdonottaketheseworkssoseriouslyasthereadermayexpect,letmebeghim,beforeheblamesme,togotoOropaandseetheoriginalsforhimself。HavethegoodpeopleofOropathemselvestakenthemveryseriously?Areweinanatmospherewhereweneedbeatmuchpainstospeakwithbatedbreath?We,asiswellknown,lovetotakeevenourpleasuressadly;theItalianstakeeventheirsadnessallegramente,andcombinedevotionwithamusementinamannerthatweshalldowelltostudyifnotimitate。ForthisbestagreeswithwhatwegathertohavebeenthecustomofChristhimself,who,indeed,neverspeaksofausteritybuttocondemnit。
IfChristianityistobealivingfaith,itmustpenetrateaman’swholelife,sothathecannomoreridhimselfofitthanhecanofhisfleshandbonesorofhisbreathing。TheChristianitythatcanbetakenupandlaiddownasifitwereawatchorabookisChristianityinnameonly。ThetrueChristiancannomorepartfromChristinmirththaninsorrow。And,afterall,whatistheessenceofChristianity?Whatisthekernelofthenut?Surelycommonsenseandcheerfulness,withunflinchingoppositiontothecharlatanismsandPharisaismsofaman’sowntimes。TheessenceofChristianityliesneitherindogma,noryetinabnormallyholylife,butinfaithinanunseenworld,indoingone’sduty,inspeakingthetruth,infindingthetrueliferatherinothersthaninoneself,andinthecertainhopethathewholoseshislifeonthesebehalfsfindsmorethanhehaslost。WhatcanAgnosticismdoagainstsuchChristianityasthis?IshouldbeshockedifanythingIhadeverwrittenorshalleverwriteshouldseemtomakelightofthesethings。IshouldbeshockedalsoifIdidnotknowhowtobeamusedwiththingsthatamiablepeopleobviouslyintendedtobeamusing。
ThereadermayneedtoberemindedthatOropaisamongthesomewhatinfrequentsanctuariesatwhichtheMadonnaandinfantChristarenotwhite,butblack。IshallreturntothispeculiarityofOropalateron,butwillleaveitforthepresent。ForthegeneralcharacteristicsoftheplaceImustreferthereadertomybook,\"AlpsandSanctuaries。\"{9}Iproposetoconfinemyselfheretothetenoradozenchapelscontaininglife-sizedterra-cottafigures,painteduptonature,thatformoneofthemainfeaturesoftheplace。Atafirstglance,perhaps,allthesechapelswillseemuninteresting;Iventuretothink,however,thatsome,ifnotmostofthem,thoughfallingagooddealshortofthebestworkatVaralloandCrea,arestillintheirownwayofconsiderableimportance。Thefirstchapelwithwhichweneedconcernourselvesisnumbered4,andshowstheConceptionoftheVirginMary。ItrepresentsSt。Anneaskneelingbeforeaterrificdragonor,astheItalianscallit,\"insect,\"aboutthesizeofaCrystalPalacepleiosaur。This\"insect\"issupposedtohavejusthaditsheadbadlycrushedbySt。Anne,whoseemstobebeggingitspardon。Thetext\"Ipsaconteretcaputtuum\"iswrittenoutsidethechapel。Thefigureshavenoartisticinterest。Asregardsdragonsbeingcalledinsects,thereadermayperhapsrememberthattheislandofS。
Giulio,intheLagod’Orta,wasinfestedwithinsetti,whichS。
Giuliodestroyed,andwhichappear,inafrescounderneaththechurchontheisland,tohavebeenmonstrousandferociousdragons;
butIcannotrememberwhethertheirbodiesaredividedintothreesections,andwhetherornotheyhaveexactlysixlegs——withoutwhich,Iamtold,theycannotbetrueinsects。
ThefifthchapelrepresentsthebirthoftheVirgin。Havingobtainedpermissiontogoinsideit,Ifoundthedate1715cutlargeanddeeponthebackofonefigurebeforebaking,andIimaginethatthisdatecoversthewhole。ThereisaQueenAnnefeelingthroughoutthecomposition,andifweweretoldthatthesculptorandFrancisBird,sculptorofthestatueinfrontofSt。Paul’sCathedral,hadstudiedunderthesamemaster,wecouldverywellbelieveit。TheapartmentinwhichtheVirginwasbornisspacious,andinstrikingcontrasttotheoneinwhichsheherselfgavebirthtotheRedeemer。St。Anneoccupiesthecentreofthecomposition,inanenormousbed;onherrightthereisaladyoftheGeorgeCruikshankstyleofbeauty,andontheleftanolderperson。BotharegesticulatingandimpressinguponSt。Annetheenormousobligationshehasjustconferreduponmankind;theyseemalsotobeimploringhernottoovertaxherstrength,but,strangetosay,theyaregivingherneitherflowersnoranythingtoeatanddrink。I
knownootherbirthoftheVirgininwhichSt。Annewantssolittlekeepingup。
Ihaveexplainedinmybook\"ExVoto,\"{10}butshouldperhapsrepeathere,thatthedistinguishingcharacteristicoftheBirthoftheVirgin,asrenderedbyValsesianartists,isthatSt。Annealwayshaseggsimmediatelyaftertheinfantisborn,andusuallyagooddealmore,whereastheMadonnaneverhasanythingtoeatordrink。TheeggsareinaccordancewithacustomthatstillprevailsamongthepeasantclassesintheValsesia,wherewomenongivingbirthtoachildgenerallyaregivenasabaglione——aneggbeatenupwithalittlewine,orrum,andsugar。EastofMilantheVirgin’smotherdoesnothaveeggs,andIsuppose,fromtheabsenceoftheeggsatOropa,thatthecustomabovereferredtodoesnotprevailintheBiellesedistrict。TheVirginalsoisinvariablywashed。St。
JohntheBaptist,whenheisbornatall,whichisnotveryoften,isalsowashed;butIhavenotobservedthatSt。ElizabethhasanythingliketheattentionpaidherthatisgiventoSt。Anne。
What,however,iswantinghereatOropainmeatanddrinkismadeupinCupids;theyswarmlikefliesonthewalls,clouds,cornices,andcapitalsofcolumns。
Againsttheright-handwallaretwolady-helps,eachwarmingatowelataglowingfire,tobereadyagainstthebabyshouldcomeoutofitsbath;whileintheright-handforegroundwehavethelevatrice,whohavingdischargedhertask,andbeingnowsodisposed,hasremovedthebottlefromthechimney-piece,andputitnearsomebread,fruitandachicken,overwhichsheisabouttodiscusstheconfinementwithtwoothergossips。Thelevatriceisaverycharacteristicfigure,butthebestinthechapelistheoneoftheheadnurse,nearthemiddleofthecomposition;shehasnowtheinfantinfullcharge,andisshowingittoSt。Joachim,withanexpressionasthoughsheweretellinghimthatherhusbandwasamerryman。IamafraidShakespearewasdeadbeforethesculptorwasborn,otherwiseIshouldhavefeltcertainthathehaddrawnJuliet’snursefromthisfigure。AsforthelittleVirginherself,Ibelievehertobeafineboyofabouttenmonthsold。Viewingtheworkasawhole,ifIonlyfeltmoresurewhatartisticmeritreallyis,Ishouldsaythat,thoughthechapelcannotberatedveryhighlyfromsomestandpoints,thereareothersfromwhichitmaybepraisedwarmlyenough。Itisinnocentofanatomy-worship,freefromaffectationorswagger,andnotdevoidofagooddealofhomelynaivete。ItcannomorebecomparedwithTabachettiorDonatellothanHogarthcanwithRembrandtorGiovanniBellini;butasitdoesnottranscendthelimitationsofitsage,soneitherisitwantinginwhatevermeritsthatagepossessed;andthereisnoagewithoutmeritsofsomekind。Thereisnoinscriptionsayingwhomadethefigures,buttraditiongivesthemtoPietroAureggioTermine,ofBiella,commonlycalledAureggio。ThisisconfirmedbytheirstrongresemblancetothoseintheDimoraChapel,inwhichthereisaninscriptionthatnamesAureggioasthesculptor。
ThesixthchapeldealswiththePresentationoftheVirginintheTemple。TheVirginisverysmall,butitmustberememberedthatsheisonlysevenyearsold,andsheisnotnearlysosmallassheisatCrea,where,thoughalife-sizedfigureisintended,theheadishardlybiggerthananapple。SheisrushingupthestepswithopenarmstowardstheHighPriest,whoisstandingatthetop。Forheritisnothingalarming;itistheHighPriestwhoappearsfrightened;butitwillallcomerightintime。TheVirginseemstobesaying,\"Why,don’tyouknowme?I’mtheVirginMary。\"ButtheHighPriestdoesnotfeelsosureaboutthat,andwillmakefurtherinquiries。Thescene,whichcomprisessometwentyfigures,isanimatedenough,andthoughithardlykindlesenthusiasm,stilldoesnotfailtoplease。ItlooksasthoughofsomewhatolderdatethantheBirthoftheVirginchapel,andIshouldsayshowsmoresignsofdirectValsesianinfluence。InMarocco’sbookaboutOropaitisascribedtoAureggio,butIfinditdifficulttoacceptthis。
Theseventh,andinmanyrespectsmostinterestingchapelatOropa,showswhatisinrealityamedievalItaliangirlschool,asnearlylikethethingitselfastheartistcouldmakeit;weareexpected,however,toseeinthisthehigh-classkindofGirtonCollegeforyounggentlewomenthatwasattachedtotheTempleatJerusalem,underthedirectionoftheChiefPriest’swife,orsomeoneofhisnearfemalerelatives。Hereallwell-to-doJewishyoungwomencompletedtheireducation,andhereaccordinglywefindtheVirgin,whoseparentsdesiredsheshouldshineineveryaccomplishment,andenjoyalltheadvantagestheiramplemeanscommanded。
IhavemetwithnotracesoftheVirginduringtheyearsbetweenherPresentationintheTempleandherbecomingheadgirlatTempleCollege。Theseyears,wemaybeassured,canhardlyhavebeenotherthaneventful;butincidents,orbitsoflife,arelikelivingforms——itisonlyhereandhere,asbyrarechance,thatoneofthemgetsarrestedandfossilised;thegreaternumberdisappearlikethegreaternumberofantediluvianmolluscs,andnoonecansaywhyoneoftheseflies,asitwere,oflifeshouldgetpreservedinambermorethananother。Talk,indeed,aboutluckandcunning;whatagrainofsandasagainstahundredweightiscunning’ssharehereasagainstluck’s。Whatmomentcouldbemorehumdrumandunworthyofspecialrecordthantheonechosenbytheartistforthechapelweareconsidering?Whyshouldthisonegetarrestedinitsflightandmadeimmortalwhensomanyworthieroneshaveperished?Yetpreserveditassuredlyis;itisasthoughsomefairy’swandhadstruckthemedievalMissPinkerton,AmeliaSedley,andotherswhododutyinsteadoftheHebreworiginals。Ithaslockedthemupassleepingbeauties,whosecharmsallmaylookupon。Surelythehoursarelikethewomengrindingatthemill——theoneistakenandtheotherleft,andnonecangivethereasonmorethanhecansaywhyGallioshouldhavewonimmortalitybycaringfornoneof\"thesethings。\"
Itseemstome,moreover,thatfairieshavechangedtheirpracticenowinthematterofsleepingbeauties,muchasshopkeepershavedoneinRegentStreet。Formerlytheshopkeeperusedtoshutuphisgoodsbehindstrongshutters,sothatnoonemightseethemafterclosinghours。Nowheleaveseverythingopentotheeyeandturnsthegason。Sothefairies,whousedtolockuptheirsleepingbeautiesinimpenetrablethickets,nowleavetheminthemostpublicplacestheycanfind,asknowingthattheywilltheremostcertainlyescapenotice。LookatDeHooghe;lookat\"ThePilgrim’sProgress,\"
orevenShakespearehimself——howlongtheysleptunawakened,thoughtheywereinbroaddaylightandonthepublicthoroughfaresallthetime。LookatTabachetti,andthemasterpiecesheleftatVarallo。
Hisfiguresthereareexposedtothegazeofeverypasser-by;yetwhoheedsthem?Who,saveaveryfew,evenknowoftheirexistence?
LookagainatGaudenzioFerrari,orthe\"DansedesPaysans,\"byHolbein,towhichIventuredtocallattentionintheUniversalReview。No,no;ifathingbeinCentralAfrica,itisthegloryofthisagetofinditout;sothefairiesthinkitsafertoconcealtheirprotegesunderashowofopenness;fortheschoolmasterismuchabroad,andthereisnohedgesothickorsothornyasthedulnessofculture。
Itmaybe,again,thateversomanyyearshence,whenMr。Darwin’searth-wormsshallhaveburiedOropahundredsoffeetdeep,someonesinkingawellormakingarailway-cuttingwillunearththesechapels,andwillbelievethemtohavebeenhouses,andtocontaintheexuviaeofthelivingformsthattenantedthem。Inthemeantime,however,letusreturntoaconsiderationofthechapelasitmaynowbeseenbyanyonewhocarestopassthatway。
Theworkconsistsofaboutfortyfiguresinall,notcountingCupids,andisdividedintofourmaindivisions。First,thereisthelargepublicsitting-roomordrawing-roomoftheCollege,wheretheelderyoungladiesareengagedinvariouselegantemployments。
Three,atatabletotheleft,aremakingamitrefortheBishop,asmaybeseenfromthemodelonthetable。Somearemerelyspinningorabouttospin。Oneyounglady,sittingratherapartfromtheothers,isdoinganelaboratepieceofneedleworkatatambour-framenearthewindow;othersaremakinglaceorslippers,probablyforthenewcurate;anotherisstrugglingwithaletter,orperhapsatheme,whichseemstobegivingheragooddealoftrouble,butwhich,whendone,will,Iamsure,bebeautiful。Onedearlittlegirlissimplyreading\"PaulandVirginia\"underneaththewindow,andissoconcealedthatIhardlythinkshecanbeseenfromtheoutsideatall,thoughfrominsidesheisdelightful;itwaswithgreatregretthatIcouldnotgetherintoanyphotograph。Onemostamiableyoungwomanhasgotachild’sheadonherlap,thechildhavingplayeditselftosleep。Allareindustriouslyandagreeablyemployedinsomewayorother;allareplump;allarenicelooking;
thereisnotoneBeckySharpinthewholeschool;onthecontrary,asin\"PiousOrgies,\"allispious——orsub-pious——andall,ifnotgreat,isatleasteminentlyrespectable。OnefeelsthatSt。
JoachimandSt。Annecouldnothavechosenaschoolmorejudiciously,andthatifonehaddaughteroneselfthisisexactlywhereonewouldwishtoplaceher。Ifthereisafaultofanykindinthearrangements,itisthattheydonotkeepcatsenough。Theplaceisoverrunwithmice,thoughwhatthesecanfindtoeatIknownot。Itoccurstomealsothattheyoungladiesmightbekeptalittlemorefreeofspiders’webs;butinallthesechapels,bats,miceandspidersaretroublesome。
Offthemaindrawing-roomonthesidefacingthewindowthereisadais,whichisapproachedbyalargeraisedsemicircularstep,higherthantherestofthefloor,butlowerthanthedaisitself。
Thedaisis,ofcourse,reservedforthevenerableLadyPrincipalandtheunder-mistresses,oneofwhom,bytheway,isalittlemoremondainethanmighthavebeenexpected,andisadmiringherselfinalooking-glass——unless,indeed,sheisonlylookingtoseeifthereisaspotofinkonherface。TheLadyPrincipalisseatednearatable,onwhichliesomebooksinexpensivebindings,whichI
imaginetohavebeenpresentedtoherbytheparentsofpupilswhowereleavingschool。Onehasgivenheraphotographicalbum;
anotheralargescrap-book,forillustrationsofallkinds;athirdvolumehasrededges,andispresumablyofadevotionalcharacter。
IfIdaredventureanothercriticism,Ishouldsayitwouldbebetternottokeeptheink-potonthetopofthesebooks。TheLadyPrincipalisbeingreadtobythemonitressfortheweek,whosedutyitwastoreciteselectedpassagesfromthemostapprovedHebrewwriters;sheappearstobeagooddealoutraged,possiblyatthefaultyintonationofthereader,whichshehaslongtriedvainlytocorrect;orperhapsshehasbeenhearingoftheatrociouswayinwhichherforefathershadtreatedtheprophets,andisexplainingtotheyoungladieshowimpossibleitwouldbe,intheirownmoreenlightenedage,foraprophettofailofrecognition。
Onthehalf-dais,asIsupposethelargesemicircularstepbetweenthemainroomandthedaisshouldbecalled,wefind,first,themonitressfortheweek,whostandsupwhilesherecites;andsecondly,theVirginherself,whoistheonlypupilallowedaseatsoneartotheaugustpresenceoftheLadyPrincipal。Sheisostensiblydoingapieceofembroiderywhichisstretchedonacushiononherlap,butIshouldsaythatshewaschieflyinterestedinthenearestoffourprettylittleCupids,whoarealltryingtoattractherattention,thoughtheypaynocourttoanyotheryounglady。IhavesometimeswonderedwhethertheobviouslyscandalisedgestureoftheLadyPrincipalmightnotbedirectedattheseCupids,ratherthanatanythingthemonitressmayhavebeenreading,forshewouldsurelyfindthemdisquieting。Orshemaybesaying,\"Why,blessme!IdodeclaretheVirginhasgotanotherhamper,andSt。
Anne’scakesarealwayssoterriblyrich!\"Certainlythehamperisthere,closetotheVirgin,andtheLadyPrincipal’sactionmaybewelldirectedatit,butitmayhavebeensenttosomeotheryounglady,andbeputonthesub-daisforpublicexhibition。ItlooksasifitmighthavecomefromFortnumandMason’s,andIhalfexpectedtofindalabel,addressingitto\"TheVirginMary,TempleCollege,Jerusalem,\"butifevertherewasonethemicehavelongsinceeatenit。TheVirginherselfdoesnotseemtocaremuchaboutit,butifshehasafaultitisthatsheisgenerallyalittleapathetic。
Whosethehamperwas,however,isapointweshallnevernowcertainlydetermine,forthebestfossilisworsethantheworstlivingform。Why,alas!wasnotMr。Edisonalivewhenthischapelwasmade?Wemightthenhavehadadailyphonographicrecitaloftheconversation,andanannouncementmightbeputoutsidethechapels,tellingusatwhathoursthefigureswouldspeak。
Oneitherofsidethemainroomtherearetwoannexesopeningoutfromit;thesearereservedchieflyfortheyoungerchildren,someofwhom,Ithink,arelittleboys。Intheleft-handannex,behindtheladieswhoaremakingamitre,thereisachildwhohasgotacake,andanotherhassomefruit——possiblygiventhembytheVirgin——
andathirdchildisbeggingforsomeofit。ThelightfailedsocompletelyherethatIwasnotabletophotographanyofthesefigures。ItwasadullSeptemberafternoon,andthecloudshadsettledthickroundthechapel,whichisneververylight,andisnearly4000feetabovethesea。Iwaitedtillsuchtwilightasmadeithopelessthatmoredetailcouldbegot——andaqueerghostlyplaceenoughitwastowaitin——butaftergivingtheplateanexposureoffiftyminutes,IsawIcouldgetnomore,anddesisted。
Theselongphotographicexposureshavetheadvantagethatoneiscompelledtostudyaworkindetailthroughmerelackofotheremployment,andthatonecantakeone’snotesinpeacewithoutbeingtemptedtohurryoverthem;butevensoIcontinuallyfindIhaveomittedtonote,andhavecleanforgotten,muchthatIwantlateron。
Intheotherannextherearealsooneortwoyoungerchildren,butitseemstohavebeensetapartforconversationandrelaxationmorethananyotherpartoftheestablishment。
Ihavealreadysaidthattheworkissignedbyaninscriptioninsidethechapel,totheeffectthatthesculpturesarebyPietroAureggioTerminediBiella。Itwillbeseenthattheyoungladiesareexceedinglylikeoneanother,andthattheartistaimedatnothingmorethanafaithfulrenderingofthelifeofhisowntimes。Letusbethankfulthatheaimedatnothingless。Perhapshiswifekeptagirls’school;orhemayhavehadalargefamilyoffat,good-
natureddaughters,whoselittlewayshehadstudiedattentively;atalleventstheworkisfullofspontaneousincident,andcannotfailtobecomemoreandmoreinterestingastheageitrendersfallsfartherbackintothepast。Itistoberegrettedthatmanyartists,betterknownmen,havenotbeensatisfiedwiththehumblerambitionsofthismostamiableandinterestingsculptor。Ifhehasleftusnolabouredlife-studies,hehasatleastdonesomethingforuswhichwecanfindnowhereelse,whichweshouldbeverysorrynottohave,andthefidelityofwhichtoItalianlifeatthebeginningofthelastcenturywillnotbedisputed。
TheeighthchapelisthatoftheSposalizio,iscertainlynotbyAureggio,andIshouldsaywasmainlybythesamesculptorwhodidthePresentationintheTemple。OngoinginsideIfoundthefigureshadcomefrommorethanonesource;someofthemareconstructedsoabsolutelyonValsesianprinciples,asregardstechnique,thatitmaybeassumedtheycamefromVarallo。Eachoftheselastfiguresisinthreepieces,thatarebakedseparatelyandcementedtogetherafterwards,hencetheyaremoreeasilytransported;nomoreclayisusedthanisabsolutelynecessary;andtheoff-sideofthefigureisneglected;theywillbefoundchiefly,ifnotentirely,atthetopofthesteps。Theotherfiguresaremoresolidlybuilt,anddonotremindmeintheirbusinessfeaturesofanythingintheValsesia。
Therewasasculptor,FrancescoSala,ofLocarno(doubtlessthevillageashortdistancebelowVarallo,andnottheLocarnoontheLagoMaggiore),whomadedesignsforsomeoftheOropachapels,andsomeofwhoselettersarestillpreserved,butwhethertheValsesianfiguresinthispresentworkarebyhimornotIcannotsay。
Thestatuesaretwenty-fiveinnumber;Icouldfindnodateorsignature;theworkremindsmeofMontrigone;severalofthefiguresarenotatallbad,andseveralhavehorsehairforhair,asatVarallo。Theeffectofthewholecompositionisbetterthanwehavearighttoexpectfromanysculpturedatingfromthebeginningofthelastcentury。
Theninthchapel,theAnnunciation,presentsnofeatureofinterest;
noryetdoesthetenth,theVisitofMarytoElizabeth。Theeleventh,theNativity,thoughratherbetter,isstillnotremarkable。
Thetwelfth,thePurification,isabsurdlybad,butIdonotknowwhethertheexpressionofstrongpersonaldisliketotheVirginwhichtheHighPriestwearsisintendedasprophetic,orwhetheritistheresultofincompetence,orwhetheritismerelyasmilegonewronginthebaking。ItisamusingtofindMarocco,whohasnotbeenstrictaboutarchaeologicalaccuracyhitherto,complainherethatthereisananachronism,inasmuchassomeyoungecclesiasticsaredressedastheywouldbeatpresent,andoneofthemactuallycarriesawaxcandle。Thisisnotasitshouldbe;inworkslikethoseatOropa,whereimplicitrelianceisjustlyplacedontheearnestendeavoursthathavebeensosuccessfullymadetothoroughlyandcarefullyandpatientlyensuretheaccuracyoftheminutestdetails,itisapitythatevenasingleerrorshouldhaveescapeddetection;this,however,hasmostunfortunatelyhappenedhere,andMaroccofeelsithisdutytoputusonourguard。Heexplainsthatthemistakearosefromthesculptor’shavingtakenbothhisgeneralarrangementandhisdetailsfromsomepictureofthefourteenthorfifteenthcentury,whenthevalueofthestrictesthistoricalaccuracywasnotyetsofullyunderstood。
Itseemstomethatinthematterofaccuracy,priestsandmenofsciencewhetherlayorregularontheonehand,andplainpeoplewhetherlayorregularontheother,aretryingtoplayadifferentgame,andfailtounderstandoneanotherbecausetheydonotseethattheirobjectsarenotthesame。Theclericandthemanofscience(whoisonlytheclericinhislatestdevelopment)aretryingtodevelopathroatwithtwodistinctpassages——onethatshallrefusetopasseventhesmallestgnat,andanotherthatshallgracefullygulpeventhelargestcamel;whereaswemenofthestreetdesirebutonethroat,andarecontentthatthisshallswallownothingbiggerthanapony。Everyoneknowsthatthereisnosucheffectualmeansofdevelopingthepowertoswallowcamelsasincessantwatchfulnessforopportunitiesofstrainingatgnats,andthisshouldexplainmanypassagesthatpuzzleusintheworkbothofourclericsandourscientists。I,notbeingamanofscience,stillcontinuetodowhatIsaidIdidin\"AlpsandSanctuaries,\"