第2章
加入书架 A- A+
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  LONDON,February7,1847

  MydearSons:……OnFridaywedinedwithtwobachelors,Mr。

  PeabodyandMr。Coates,whoareAmericanbankers。Mr。PeabodyisafriendofMr。CorcoranandwasformerlyapartnerofMr。RiggsinBaltimore。Mr。CoatesisofBoston……TheymusteredupalltheAmericansthatcouldbefound,andwedinedwithtwenty—sixofourcountrymen。

  MondayMorningLasteveningwewereathometoseeanyAmericanswhomightchancetocome……Imaketeainthedrawing—room,onalittletablewithawhitecloth,whichwouldnotbeesteemedCOMMEILFAUTwithus。Thereisnoneoftheparadeofeatinginthelargesteveningpartyhere。Iseenothingbuttea,andsometimesfindaninformalrefreshmenttableintheroomwhereweputonourcloaks。

  IgotanoteyesterdayfromtheO’ConnorDon,enclosinganordertoadmitmetotheHouseofCommonsonMonday……Youwillbecurioustoknowwhois\"TheO’ConnorDon。\"HeisDennisO’Connor,Esq。,butisoftheoldestfamilyinIreland,andtherepresentativeofthelastkingsofConnaught。HeiscalledaltogethertheO’ConnorDon,andbeginshisnotetomewiththattitle。YourememberCampbell’spoemof\"O’Connor’sChild\"?

  Sunday,14thFebruary……YesterdaymorningwasmybreakfastatSirRobertInglis’s。

  Thehourwashalfpastnine,andashishouseistwomilesoffIhadtobeupwondrousearlyforme。Theweatherhasbeenverycoldforthisclimateforthelastfewdays,thoughweshouldthinkitmoderate。Theyknownothingofextremecoldhere。But,toreturntoorbreakfast,where,notwithstandingthecold,theguestswerepunctuallyassembled:TheMarquisofNorthamptonandhissisters,theBishopofLondonwithhisblackapron,SirStratfordCanning,Mr。Rutherford,LordAdvocateforScotland,theSolicitor—Generalandoneortwoothers。TheconversationwasveryagreeableandI

  enjoyedmyfirstspecimenofanEnglishbreakfastexceedingly……

  Ourinvitationsjostleeachother,nowParliamenthasbegun,foreverybodyinvitesonWednesday,Saturday,orSunday,whentherearenodebates。WehadthreedinnerinvitationsfornextWednesday,fromMr。Harcourt,MarquisofAnglesey,andMrs。Mansfield。Wegototheformer。TheQueenheldaleveeonFriday,forgentlemenonly。Yourfatherwent,ofcourse。

  Sunday,February21stIleftoffonSunday,onwhichdayIgotanotefromLadyMorgan,sayingthatshewishedustocomeandmeetsomeagreeablesatherhouse……ThereImetSirWilliamandLadyMolesworth,SirBenjaminHall,etc。,andhadalongtalkwith\"Eothen,\"whoisaquiet,unobtrusivepersoninmanner,thoughhisbookisquiteaneffervescence……OnWednesdaywedinedwithMr。Harcourt,andmetthereLordBrougham,whodidthetalkingchiefly,LordandLadyMahon,Mr。Labouchere,etc。Itwasamostagreeableparty,andwewereverygladtomeetLordBrougham,whomwehadnotbeforeseen。

  LordBroughamisentertaining,andverymuchlistenedto。Indeed,theEnglishhabitseemstobetosufferafewpeopletodoupagreatpartofthetalking,suchasMacaulay,Brougham,andSydneySmithandMackintoshintheirday……OnSaturdayevening,atteno’clock,wewenttoalittlepartyatLadyStratheden’s。Afterstayingtherethree—quartersofanhourwewenttoLadyPalmerston’s,wherewerealltheGREATLondonworld,theDuchessofSutherlandamongthenumber。Sheismostnoble,andatthesametimelovely……WehadanautographnotefromSirRobertPeel,invitingustodinenextSaturday,andwereengaged。Ihopetheywillaskusagain,forIknowfewthingsbetterthantoseehim,asweshouldindiningthere。IhavethesameinterestinseeingthereallydistinguishedmenofEngland,thatIshouldhaveinthepicturesandstatuesofRome,andindeed,muchgreater。IwishI

  wasbetterpreparedformylifeherebyamoreextensiveculture;

  merefineladyismwillnotdo,orprosybluism,butoneneedsforathoroughenjoymentofsociety,ahealthy,practical,andextensiveculture,andauseofthemodernlanguagesinourpositionwouldbeconvenient。Idonotknowhowagentlemancangetonwithoutithere,andIfinditsodesirablethatIdevoteagooddealoftimetospeakingFrenchwithLouisa’sgoverness。YourfatherusesFrenchagreatdealwithhiscolleagues,who,manyofthem,speakEnglishwithgreatdifficulty,andsomenotatall……LadyCharlotteLindsaycameonedaythisweektoengageustodinewithheronWednesday,butyesterdayshecametosaythatshewantedLordBroughamtomeetus,andhecouldnotcometillFriday。Fortunatelywehadnodinnerengagementonthatday,andwearetomeetalsotheMissBerrys;HoraceWalpole’sMissBerrys,whowithLadyCharlotteherself,arethelastremnantsoftheoldschoolhere。

  LETTER:ToI。P。D。

  February21stMydearUncle:……Iwrote[J。D。]aweekortwobeforeIheardofhisdeath,butwasunabletotellhimanythingofLordNorth,asI

  hadnotmetLadyCharlotteLindsay。IhaveseenhertwicethisweekatBaronParke’sandatLordCampbell’s,andtoldherhowmuchIhadwishedtodosobefore,andonwhataccount。Shesaysherfatherheardreadingwithgreatpleasure,andthatoneofhersisterscouldreadtheclassics:Latinand,Ithink,Greek,whichheenjoyedtothelast。Shesaysthathenevercomplainedoflosinghissight,butthathermotherhastoldherthatitworriedhiminhisoldagethatheremainedMinisterduringourtroublesataperiodwhenhewished,himself,toresign。Hesometimestalkedofitinthesolitudeofsleeplessnights,hermotherhastoldher。

  OnTuesdaymorningwewereinvitedbyDr。Buckland,theDeanofWestminster,togotohishouse,andfromthencetotheAbbey,towitnessthefuneraloftheDukeofNorthumberland。TheDean,whohascontrolofeverythingintheAbbey,issuedticketstoseveralhundredpersonstogoandwitnessthefuneral,butonlyLordNorthampton’sfamily,theBunsens(thePrussianMinister),andourselves,wenttohishouse,andintotheDean’slittlegallery。

  AftertheceremonytherewereacrowdofvisitorsattheDean’s,andImetmanyoldacquaintances,andmademanynewones,amongwhomwereLadyChantrey,aniceperson。Afterthecrowdclearedoff,wesatdowntoalongtableatlunch,alwaysanimportantmealhere,andafterwardtheDeantookmeonhisarmandshowedmeeverythingwithintheAbbeyprecincts。HetookusfirsttothePercyChapeltoseethevaultofthePercys……FromthencetheDeantookustotheJerusalemchamberwhereHenryIVdied,thenallovertheWestminsterschool。Wefirstwenttothehallwheretheyoungmenwereeatingtheirdinner……Wethenwenttotheschool—room,whereeveryinchofthewallandbenchesiscoveredwithnames,someofthemmostillustrious,asDryden’s。Thereweretwobunchesofrods,whichtheDeanassuredmewerenotmeresymbolsofpower,butweredailyused,as,indeed,thebrokentwigsscattereduponthefloorplainlyshowed。Ourferulesarethoughtratherbarbarous,butagentletouchfromaslendertwignotatallso。Theseyoungmenlookedtomeasoldasourcollegians。Wethenwenttotheirstudy—

  rooms,play—rooms,andsleeping—rooms。Thewholefortysleepinonelongandwell—ventilatedroom,thewallsofwhichwerealsocoveredwithnames。Atthefootofeachbedwasalargechestcoveredwithleather,asmoulderingandtime—wornastheAbbeyitself。Hereareeducatedthesonsofsomeofthenoblestfamilies,andtheArchbishopofYorkhashadsixsonshere,andallofthemwereinsuccessiontheCaptainoftheschool……

  OnWednesdayeveningwewentfirsttoourfriends,theBunsens,wherewewereinvitedtomeettheDuchessofSutherlandwithafewotherpersons。Bunsenisverypopularhere。Heislearnedandaccomplished,andwassomuchpraisedintheBiographyofDr。

  Arnold,thelatehistorianofRome,thathehasgreatreputationintheworldofletters……AlthoughwehavegreatpleasureinthesocietyofChevalierandMadamBunsen,andinthosewhomwemeetattheirhouse。Onthisoccasionweonlystayedhalfanhour,whichI

  passedintalkingwiththeBishopofNorwichandhiswife,Mrs。

  Stanley,andwenttoLadyMorgan’swithoutwaitingtilltheDuchessofSutherlandcame。Therewefoundherlittleroomsfullofagreeablepeople……Thenextday,Thursday,therewasagrandoperaforthebenefitoftheIrish,andalltheDiplomaticCorpswereobligedtotakeboxes。LadyPalmerston,whowasoneofthethreepatronesses,securedaverygoodboxforus,directlyoppositetheQueen,andonlythreefromthestage。

  WetookwithusMrs。MilmanandW。T。Davis,towhomitgaveagrandopportunityofseeingtheQueenandtheassembledaristocracy,atleastallwhoarenowinLondon。\"GodsavetheQueen,\"sungwiththewholeaudiencestanding,wasanoblesight。TheQueenalsostood,andattheendgavethreecurtsies。OnFridayCaptainandMrs。Wormeley,withMissWormeley,dinedwithus,withMr。andMrs。

  Carlyle,MissMurray,theMaidofHonor,Mr。andMrs。PellofNewYork,withWilliamT。andMr。Brodhead。WilliamwasverygladtoseeCarlyle,whoshowedhimselfofftoperfection,utteringhisparadoxesinbroadScotch。

  LasteveningwedinedatMr。ThomasBaring’s,andamostagreeabledinneritwas。Thecompanyconsistedoftwelvepersons,LordandLadyAshburton,etc。IlikeLadyAshburtonextremely。Sheisfullofintelligence,readseverything,talksmostagreeably,andstilllovesAmerica。Sheisbynomeansoneofthosewhoabjuretheircountry。IhaveseenfewpersonsinEnglandwhomIshouldesteemamoredelightfulfriendorcompanionthanLadyAshburton,andIdonotknowwhy,butIhadreceivedadifferentimpressionofher。

  LordAshburton,bywhomIsatatdinner,struckmeasstilloneofthewisestmenIhaveseeninEngland。LadyAshburton,whowassittingbyMr。Bancroft,leantforwardandsaidtoherhusband,\"WE

  canbringbushelsofcornthisyeartoEngland。\"\"WhodoyoumeanbyWE?\"saidhe。\"Why,weAmericans,tobesure。\"

  MondayEveningYesterdaywedinedatCountSt。Aulair’s,theFrenchAmbassador,whoisacharmingoldmanoftheoldFrenchschool,atasortofamicabledinnergiventoLordandLadyPalmerston。LordJohnRussellwasoftheparty,withtheRussianAmbassadorandlady,Mr。

  andMadamVandeWeyer,thePrussianandTurkishMinisters。ThehouseoftheFrenchEmbassyisfine,buttheseformalgranddinnersarenotsocharmingasthesmallones。ThepresentstateoffeelingbetweenLordPalmerstonandtheFrenchGovernmentgaveitakindofinterest,however,anditcertainlywentoffinamuchbetterspiritthanLadyNormanby’sfamousparty,whichGuizotwouldnotattend。

  ItseemsveryoddtometobeinthemidstoftheseEuropeanaffairs,whichIhaveallmylifelookeduponfromsogreatadistance。

  LETTER:ToMrs。W。W。StoryLONDON,March23,1847

  MydearMrs。Story:Ishouldhavethankedyoubythelaststeamerforyournoteandthecharmingvolumewhichaccompaniedit,butmythoughtsandfeelingsweresomuchoccupiedbythesadtidingsI

  heardfrommyownfamilythatIwrotetonooneoutofit。Thepoems,whichwouldatalltimeshavegivenmegreatpleasure,gavemestillmoreherethantheywouldifIwerewithyouontheothersideoftheAtlantic。IamnotcosmopolitanenoughtoloveanynaturesowellasourAmericannature,andinadditiontothecharmofitspoetry,everypiecebroughtuptomethescenesamidstwhichithadbeenwritten……Howdeartheseassociationsareyourhusbandwillsoonknowwhenhetooisseparatedfromhisnativeshoresandfromthoseheloves……Ishalllookforwardwithgreatpleasuretoseeinghimhere,andonlywishyouweretoaccompanyhim,foryourownsake,forhis,andforours。HisvariousculturewillenablehimtoenjoymostfullyallthatEuropecanyieldhimineverydepartment。MyownregreteversinceIhavebeenherehasbeenthattheseedhasnot\"fallenuponbetterground,\"forthoughIthoughtmyselfnotignorantwholly,I

  certainlylosemuchthatImightenjoymorekeenlyifIwerebetterpreparedforit。IenvythepleasurewhichMr。Storywillreceivefrommusic,painting,andsculptureinEurope,evenifheweredestituteofthecreativeinspirationwhichhewilltakewithhim。

  Forourselves,wehaveeverythingtomakeushappyhere,andI

  shouldbequiteso,ifIcouldforgetthatIhadacountryandchildrenwithverydearfriends3,000milesaway……Therearecertainsympathiesofcountrywhichonecannotovercome。OntheotherhandIcertainlyenjoypleasuresofthehighestkind,andameverydayfloatedlikeoneinadreamintothemidstofpersonsandscenesthatmakemylifeseemmorelikeadramathanareality。

  Nothingismoreunrealthantheactualpresenceofpersonsofwhomonehasheardmuch,andlongwishedtosee。OnedayIfindmyselfatdinnerbythesideofSirRobertPeel,anotherbyLordJohnRussell,oratLordLansdowne’stable,withMrs。Norton,oratacharmingbreakfastwithMr。Rogers,surroundedbypicturesandmarbles,orwithtallfeathersandalongtrain,makingcurtsiestoaqueen。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  LONDON,April2[1847]

  HereitisthedaybeforethedespatchesleaveandIhavenotwrittenasinglelinetoyou……OnFridaywedinedatLadyCharlotteLindsay’s,wherewereLordBroughamandLadyMallet,Mr。

  RogersandtheBishopofNorwichandhiswife。IntheeveningMissAgnesBerry,whonevergoesoutnow,cameonpurposetoappointaneveningtogoandseehersister,whoistheonethatHoraceWalpolewishedtomarry,andtowhomsomanyofhislaterlettersareaddressed。Sheiseighty—four,hersisterafewyearsyounger,andLadyCharlottenotmuchtheirjunior。

  TheseremnantsoftheBELLES—ESPRITSofthelastagearecharmingtome。Theyhaveavastandlongexperienceofthebestsocialcircles,withnativewit,andconstantpracticeintheconversationofsociety……OnWednesday,wedinedatSirRobertPeel’s,withwhomIwasmorecharmedthanwithanybodyIhaveseenyet。IsatbetweenhimandtheSpeakeroftheHouseofCommons。Iwastoldthathewasstiffandstatelyinhismanners,butdidnotthinkhimso,andaminclinedtoimaginethatfreefromtheburdenofthePremiership,heunbendsmore。Hetalkedconstantlywithme,andinspeakingofacertainpicturesaid,\"WhenyoucometoDraytonManorIshallshowittoyou。\"Ishouldliketogothere,buttoseehimselfevenmorethanhispictures。LadyPeelisstillaveryhandsomewoman。

  ThenextmorningwebreakfastedwithMr。Rogers。Helives,asyouprobablyknow,in[a]beautifulhouse,thoughsmall,whoseroomslookupontheGreenPark,andfilledwithpicturesandmarbles。Westayedanhourormoreaftertheotherguests,listeningtohisstoresofliteraryanecdoteandpleasanttalk。IntheeveningwewenttotheMissBerrys’,wherewefoundLordMorpeth,whoismuchattachedtothem。MissBerryputherhandonhishead,whichisgettingalittlegray,andsaid:\"Ah,George,andIrememberthedayyouwereborn,yourgrandmotherbroughtyouandputyouinmyarms。\"NowthisgrandmotherofLordMorpeth’swasthecelebratedDuchessofDevonshire,whoelectioneeredforFox,andheledhertotellmeallabouther。\"Eothen\"wasalsothere,LadyLewisandmanyofmyfriends……Auntywishestoknowwhois\"Eothen。\"Shehasprobablyreadhisbook,\"Eothen,orTracesofTravel,\"whichwasverypopulartwoorthreeyearssince。Heisayounglawyer,Mr。

  Kinglake,themostmodest,unassumingpersoninhismanners,veryshyandaltogetherveryunlikethedashing,spiritedyoungEnglishmanIfiguredtomyself,whomnothingcoulddauntfromtheArabeventotheplague,whichhedefied。

  LETTER:ToI。P。D。

  DearUncleandAunt:OnThursday[the25th]wewereinvitedtoSirJohnPakington’s,whosewifeistheBishopofRochester’sdaughter,butwereengagedtoMr。Senior,whohadaskedustomeettheArchbishopofDublin,thecelebratedDr。Whately。HehadcomeoverfromIrelandtomakeaspeechintheHouseofLordsupontheIrishPoorLaw。Heisfulloflearning[and]simplicity,andwithmostgenialheartymanners。RogerswasalsothereandsaidmorefinethingsthanIhaveheardhimsaybeforeatdinner,asheisnowsodeafthathedoesnotheargeneralconversation,andcannottellwheretosendhisshaft,whichisalwayspointed。Heretainsallhissarcasmandepigrammaticpoint,butheshinesnowespeciallyatbreakfast,wherehehashisaudiencetohimself。

  WewentfromMr。Senior’stoMr。Milman’s,butnearlyallthegueststhereweredepartedordeparting,thoughoneortworeturnedwithustothedrawing—roomtostaythefewminuteswedid。AmongthelingererswefoundSirWilliamandLadyDuffGordon,thetwoWarburtons,\"Hochelaga\"and\"CrescentandCross,\"and\"Eothen。\"

  Mrs。MilmanIreallylove,andweseemuchofthem。

  OnSaturdaywasthedreadedDrawing—Room,onwhichoccasionIwastobepresentedtotheQueen……Mr。BancroftandIlefthomeataquarterpastone。Onourarrivalwepassedthroughoneortwocorridors,linedbyattendantswithbattle—axesandpicturesquecostumes,lookingverymuchlikethesupernumerariesonthestage,andwereusheredintotheante—room,alargeandsplendidroom,whereonlytheMinistersandPrivyCouncillors,withtheirfamilies,areallowedtogowiththeDiplomaticCorps。HerewefoundLadyPalmerston,whoshowedmealistshehadgotSirEdwardCust,themasterofceremonies,tomakeoutoftheorderofprecedenceoftheDiplomaticCorps,andwhentheturnwouldcomeforuswhoweretobenewlypresented。Theroomsoonfilledupanditwaslikeapleasantparty,onlymoreamusing,asthecostumesofbothgentlemenandladiesweresosplendid。IgotaseatinthewindowwithMadamVandeWeyerandsawtheQueen’straindriveup。Attheendofthisroomaretwodoors:atthelefthandeverybodyentersthenextapartmentwheretheQueenandhersuitestand,andaftergoingroundthecircle,comeoutattheright—handdoor。AfterthosewhoareprivilegedtogoFIRSTintotheANTE—ROOMleaveit,thegeneralcirclepassin,andtheyalsogoinandoutthesamedoors。Buttogoback。Theleft—handdooropensandSirEdwardCustleadsintheCountessDietrichstein,whoistheeldestAmbassadress,astheCountessSt。AulairisinParis。Assheentersshedropshertrainandthegentlemenushersopenitoutlikeapeacock’stail。ThenMadamVandeWeyer,whocomesnext,followscloseuponthetrainoftheformer,thenBaronessBrunnow,theMadamBunsen,thenMadamLisboa,thenLadyPalmerston,who,asthewifeoftheMinisterforForeignAffairs,istointroducethePrincessCallimachi,BaronessdeBeust,andmyself。ShestationsherselfbythesideoftheQueenandnamesusaswepass。TheQueenspoketononeofus,butgavemeaverygracioussmile,andwhenMr。Bancroftcameby,shesaid:\"I

  amverygladtohavehadthepleasureofseeingMrs。Bancroftto—

  day。\"Iwasnot[at]allfrightenedandgatheredupmytrainwithasmuchself—possessionasifIwerealone。Ifounditveryentertainingafterwardtowatchthereceptionoftheothers。TheDiplomaticCorpsremainthroughthewhole,theladiesstandingontheleftoftheQueenandthegentlemeninthecentre,butallotherspassoutimmediately……OnSundayeveningMr。BancroftsetoffforParistopasstheEasterrecessofParliament……I

  gotaveryinterestingletteryesterdayfromMr。Bancroft。ItseemsthattheCountessCircourt,whosehusbandhasreviewedhisbookandPrescott’s,isamostcharmingperson,andmakesherhouseoneofthemostbrilliantandattractiveinParis。Sinceheleft,anotecamefromMr。Hallam,thecontentsofwhichpleasedmeastheywillyou。ItannouncedthatMr。BancroftwaschosenanHonoraryMemberoftheSocietyofAntiquaries,ofwhichLordMahonispresident,Hallam,vice—president。HallamsaysthesocietyisveryoldandthatheisthefirstcitizenoftheUnitedStatesuponwhomithasbeenconferred,butthathewillnotlongpossessitexclusively,ashis\"highlydistinguishedcountryman,Mr。Prescott,hasalsobeenproposed。\"

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  TuesdayMydearSons:……OnMondaymorningcamethedearMissBerrys,tobegmetocomethateveningtojointheircircle。TheyhavealwaysthebestpeopleinLondonaboutthem,youngaswellasold。

  Theoldandthemiddle—agedaremoreattendedtoherethanwithus,wheretheyoungareallinall。AsHaywardsaidtometheotherevening,\"ittakestimetomakePEOPLE,likecathedrals,\"andMr。

  RogersandMissBerrycouldnothavebeenwhattheyarenow,fortyyearsago。Alonglifeofexperienceinthemidstconstantlyofthehighestandmostcultivatedcircles,andwithseveralgenerationsofdistinguishedmengiveswhatcanbeacquiredinnootherway。Mr。

  Rogerssaidtomeoneday:\"IhavelearntmorefrommenthatfromBOOKS,andwhenIusedtobeinthesocietyofFoxandothergreatmenofthatperiod,andtheywouldsometimessay’Ihavealwaysthoughtsoandso,’thenIhaveopenedmyearsandlistened,forI

  saidtomyself,nowIshallgetatthetreasuredresultsoftheexperienceofthesegreatmen。\"ThislittlesayingofMr。Rogersexpressespreciselymyownfeelingsinthesocietyofthevenerableanddistinguishedhere。WithussocietyisleftmoretothecruditiesoftheyoungthaninEngland。Theyoungmaybeinterestingandpromisemuch,buttheyarestillCRUDE。Theelements,howeverfine,arenotyetcompletelyassimilatedandbroughttothatmoreperfecttonewhichcomeslaterinlife。

  Monday,April12th……OnSaturdayIwentwithSirWilliamandLadyMolesworthtotheirboxinthenewCoventGardenopera,whichhasbeenopenedforthefirsttimethisweek。ThereIsawGrisiandAlboniandTamburiniinthe\"Semiramide。\"Itwasanewworldofdelighttome。

  Grisi,sostatuesqueandsograceful,delightstheeye,theear,andthesoul。Sheissculpture,poetry,andmusicatthesametime……Mr。BancrofthasbeenreceivedwithgreatcordialityinParis。HehasbeenthreetimesinvitedtothePalace,andGuizotandMignetgivehimaccesstoallthathewantsinthearchives,andhepasseshiseveningswithalltheeminentmenandbeautifulwomenofParis。

  Guizot,Thiers,Lamartine,Cousin,Salvandi,Thierry,hesees,andenjoysall。Theytakehimtothesalons,too,oftheFaubourgSt。

  Germain,amongtheoldFrencharistocracy,andtoinnumerablereceptions。

  WednesdayTo—morrowIgototheDrawing—Roomalone,andtocompletetheclimax,theQueenhassentusaninvitationtodineatthePalaceto—morrow,andImustgoALONEfortheFIRSTTIME。IfIlivethroughit,Iwilltellyouallaboutit;butisitnotawkwardintheextreme?

  FridayMorningAteighto’clockintheeveningIdrovetothePalace。Mydresswasmycurrant—coloredorgrosseillevelvetwithawreathofwhiteArumlilieswovenintoakindofturban,withgreenleaveandbouquettomatch,ontheberthaofBrusselslace。Iwasreceivedbyaservant,whoescortedmethroughalongnarrowcorridorthelengthofWinthropPlaceandconsignedmetoanotherwhoescortedmeinhisturn,throughanotherwidercorridortothefootofaflightofstairswhichIascendedandfoundanotherservant,whotookmycloakandshowedmeintothegrandcorridororpicturegallery;anobleapartmentofinterminablelength;andsurroundedbypicturesofthebestmasters。GeneralBowles,theMasteroftheHousehold,cameforwardtomeetme,andLordByron,whoisoneoftheLordsinWaiting。IfoundMadamLisboaalreadyarrived,andsooncameinLordandLadyPalmerston,theDukeofNorfolk,theMarquisandMarchionessofExeter,LordandLadyDalhousie,LordCharlesWellesley,sonoftheDukeofWellington,LadyByron,andMr。

  Hallam。Wesatandtalkedasatanyotherplace,whenatlasttheQueenwasannounced。Thegentlemenrangedthemselvesononeside,andweontheother,andtheQueenandPrincepassedthrough,shebowing,andweprofoundlycurtseying。AssoonasshepassedtheMarquisofExetercameoverandtookMadamLisboa,andLordDalhousiecameandtookme。TheQueenandPrincesatinthemiddleofalongtable,andIwasjustoppositethePrince,betweenLordExeterandLordDalhousie,whoisthesonoftheformerGovernorofNovaScotia,wasinthelastministry,andamostagreeableperson。

  Italkedtomyneighborsasatanyotherdinner,buttheQueenspoketonoonebutPrinceAlbert,withawordortwototheDukeofNorfolk,whowasonherright,andisthefirstpeeroftherealm。

  Thedinnerwasratherquicklydespatched,andwhentheQueenrosewefollowedherbackintothecorridor。Shewalkedtothefireandstoodsomeminutes,andthenadvancedtomeandenquiredaboutMr。

  Bancroft,hisvisittoParis,ifhehadbeentherebefore,etc。I

  expressed,ofcourse,theregrethewouldfeelatlosingthehonorofdiningwithHerMajesty,etc。ShethenhadatalkwithLadyPalmerston,whostoodbymyside,thenwithalltheotherladiesinsuccession,untilatlastPrinceAlbertcameout,soonfollowedbytheothergentlemen。ThePrincethenspoketoalltheladies,asshehaddone,whileshewentinsuccessiontoallthegentlemenguests。Thistooksometimeandwewereobligedtostandallthewhile。

  AtlasttheQueen,accompaniedbyherLadyinWaiting,LadyMountEdgcumbe,wenttoasofaattheotherendofthecorridorinfrontofwhichwasaroundtablesurroundedbyarm—chairs。WhentheQueenwasseatedLadyMountEdgcumbecametousandrequestedustotakeourseatsroundthetable。Thiswasalittleprim,forIdidnotknowexactlyhowmuchImighttalktoothersintheimmediatepresenceoftheQueen,andeverybodyseemedalittleconstrained。

  Shespoketousall,andverysoonsuchofthegentlemenaswereallowedbytheirrank,joinedusattheroundtable。LordDalhousiecameagaintomysideandIhadaspleasantaconversationwithhim,ratherSOTTOVOCE,however,asIcouldhavehadataprivatehouse。

  Athalf—pasttentheQueenroseandshookhandswitheachlady;wecurtsiedprofoundly,andsheandthePrincedeparted。Wethenbadeeachothergood—night,andfoundourcarriagesassoonaswechose。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  LONDON,May16,1847

  MydearSons:Mylettersbythissteamerwillhaveverylittleinterestforyou,as,frombeingincompleteretirement,Ihavenonewthingstorelatedtoyou……Wehavetakenadvantageofourleisuretodrivealittleintothecountry,andonTuesdayIhadapleasureofthehighestorderindrivingdowntoEsherandpassingaquietdaywithLadyByron,thewidowofthepoet。SheisanintimatefriendofMissMurray,whohaslongwishedustoseeheranddesiredhertonamethedayforourvisit。

  EsherisalittlevillageaboutsixteenmilesfromLondon,andLadyByronhasselecteditasherresidence,thoughherestatesareinLeicestershire,becauseitisnearLordandLadyLovelace,heronlychild,the\"ADA\"ofpoetry。Wewentinourowncarriage,takingMissMurraywithus,andasthecountryisnowradiantwithblossomsandglowinggreen,thedriveitselfwasveryagreeable。Wearrivedattwoo’clock,andfoundonlyLadyByron,withthesecondboyofLadyLovelaceandhistutor。LadyByronisnowaboutfifty—five,andwiththeremainsofanattractive,ifnotbrilliantbeauty。Shehasextremelydelicatefeatures,andverypaleandfinelydelicateskin。Atoneofvoiceandmannerofthemosttremblingrefinement,withacultureandstrongintellect,almostmasculine,butwhichbetraysitselfundersuchsweetandgentleandunobtrusiveformsthatoneisonlyledtoperceiveitbyslowdegrees。Sheisthemostmodestandunostentatiouspersononecanwellconceive。Shelivessimply,andthechiefofherlargeincome(youknowshewastherichMissMilbank)shedevotestoothers。AfterlunchshewishedmetoseealittleofthecountryroundEsherandorderedherponiesandsmallcarriageforherselfandme,whileMr。BancroftandMissMurraywalked。Wewentfirsttotheroyalseat,Claremont,wherethePrincessCharlottelivedsohappilywithLeopold,andwhereshedied。ItsparkadjoinsLadyByron’s,andtheQueenallowsheraprivatekeythatshemayenjoyitsexquisitegrounds。Hereweleftthepedestrians,whileLadyByrontookmeamoreextensivedrive,asshewishedtoshowmesomeoftheheathsintheneighborhood,whicharecoveredwithfurze,nowonemassofyellowbloom。

  Everyobjectisseeninfullreliefagainstthesky,andafigureonhorsebackispeculiarlystriking。IamalwaysremindedofthebeginningofoneofJames’snovels,whichisusually,youknow,afterthismanner:\"Itwastowardthecloseofadullautumndaythattwohorsemenwereseen,\"etc。,etc。LadyByrontookmetotheestateofaneighboringgentleman,toshowmeafineoldtowercoveredwithivy,whereWolseytookrefugefromhispersecutors,withhisfaithfulfollower,Cromwell。

  Uponourreturnwefoundthelastoftheoldharpers,blind,andwithagenuineoldIrishharp,andafterhearinghisnationalmelodiesforhalfanhour,takingacupofcoffee,andenjoyingalittlemoreofLadyByron’sconversation,wedeparted,havinghadadayheapedupwiththerichestandbestenjoyments。Icouldnothelpthinking,asIwaswalkingupanddownthebeautifulpathsofClaremontPark,withthefreshspringairblowingaboutme,theprimroses,daisies,andwildbluebellsundermyfeet,andLadyByronatmyside,thatitwasmorelikeapageoutofapoemthanareality。

  OnSundaynightanyAmericanswhoareherecometoseeus……Mr。

  Hardingbroughtwithhimagentleman,whomheintroducedasMr。

  Alison。Mr。BancroftaskedhimifhewererelatedtoArchdeaconAlison,whowrotethe\"EssayonTaste。\"\"Iamhisson,\"saidhe。

  \"Ah,then,youarethebrotherofthehistorian?\"saidMr。Bancroft。

  \"Iamthehistorian,\"wasthereply……Aneveningvisitorisathingunheardof,andthereforemylifeisverylonely,nowIdonotgointosociety。IseenooneexceptSundayevenings,and,occasionally,afriendbeforedinner。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  LONDON,May24,[1847]

  MydearSons:……OnFridaywebothwenttoseethePalaceofHamptonCourtwithmydear,good,MissMurray,Mr。Winthropandson,andLouise……Onourarrival,wefound,toourgreatvexation,thatFridaywastheonlydayintheweekinwhichvisitorswerenotadmitted,andthatwemustcontentourselveswithseeingthegroundsandgobackwithoutaglimpseofitsnoblegalleriesofpictures。

  Fortunatelyforus,MissMurrayhadseveralfriendsamongthepersonstowhomtheQueenhasassignedapartmentsinthevastedifice,andtheywillinglyyieldedtheirapprobationofouradmissionifshecouldpossiblywinoverMrs。Grundy,thehousekeeper。Thisnamesoundedratherinauspicious,butMr。

  Winthropsuggestedthattheremightbea\"Felix\"toqualifyit,andsointhiscaseitturnedout。Mrs。Grundyassertedthatsuchathinghadneverbeendone,thatitwasaverydangerousprecedent,etc。,butintheendtheweightofaMaidofHonorandaForeignMinisterprevailed,andwesaweverythingtomuchgreateradvantagethanifwehad150personsfollowingon,asMr。WinthropsayshehadtheotherdayatWindsorCastle……Onourway[home]wemetLadyByronwithherprettylittlecarriageandponies。Shealightedandwedidthesame,andhadquiteapleasantlittleinterviewinthedustyroad。

  Sunday,May30thYourfatherlefttownonMonday……Hedidnotreturnuntilthe27th,themorningoftheQueen’sBirthdayDrawing—Room。OnthatoccasionIwentdressedinwhitemourning……Itwasapetticoatofwhitecrapeflouncedtothewaistwiththeedgesnotched。A

  trainofwhiteglacetrimmedwitharucheofwhitecrape。Awreathandbouquetofwhitelilacs,withoutanygreen,asgreenisnotusedinmourning。Thearrayofdiamondsonthisoccasionwasmagnificentinthehighestdegree,andeverybodywasintheirmostsplendidarray。ThenexteveningtherewasaconcertatthePalace,atwhichJennyLind,Grisi,Alboni,Mario,andTamburinisang。Iwentdressedin[a]deepblackdressandenjoyedthemusichighly。Seatswereplacedinrowsintheconcert—roomandonesatquietlyasifinchurch。Attheendofthefirstpart,theroyalfamilywiththeirroyalguests,theGrandDukeConstantineofRussia,andtheGrandDukeandDuchessofSaxe—Weimarwenttothegranddining—roomandsuppedbythemselves,withtheirsuites,whileanotherelegantrefreshmenttablewasspreadinanotherapartmentfortheotherguests……JennyLindalittledisappointedme,Imustconfess,buttheytellmethathersongswerenotadaptedonthateveningtothedisplayofhervoice。

  OnSundayeveningyourfatherdinedwithBaronBrunnow,theRussianMinister,tomeettheGrandDukeConstantine。ItsohappenedthattheGrandDukeandDuchessofSaxe—WeimarappointedanaudiencetoBaronandBaronessBrunnowatseven,andtheyhadnotreturnedathalf—pastseven,whentheGrandDukeandtheirotherguestsarrived。

  TheBaronessimmediatelyadvancedtotheGrandDukeandsunkonherkneesbeforehim,askingpardoninRussian。Hebeggedhertorise,butsheremainedintheattitudeofdeephumiliation,untiltheGrandDukesunkalsoonHISkneesandgentlyraisedher,andthenkissedheronthecheek,aprivilege,youknow,ofroyalty……OnMondayeveningwebothwenttoaconcertatMr。Hudson’s,thegreatrailway\"king,\"whohasjustmadeanimmensefortunefromrailwaystocks,andisnowdesiroustogetintosociety。Thesethingsaremanagedinacuriouswayhere。ANOUVEAURICHEgetsseveralladiesoffashiontopatronizetheirentertainmentandinvitealltheguests。OurinvitationwasfromLadyParke,whowrotemetwonotesaboutit,sayingthatshewouldbehappytomeetmeatMrs。Hudson’ssplendidmansion,wherewouldbethebestmusicandsocietyofLondon;and,trueenough,therewastheDukeofWellingtonandalltheworld。LadyParkestoodattheentranceofthesplendidsuiteofroomstoreceivetheguestsandintroducethemtotheirhostandhostess。OnTuesdaymorningIgotanotefromMr。

  EliotWarburton(brotherof\"Hochelaga\")tocometohisroomattwoo’clockandlookatsomedrawings。Tooursurprisewefoundquiteapartyseatedatlunch,andacollectionofmanyagreeablepersonsandsomelionsandlionesses。TherewasLordRoss,thegreatastronomer;BaronessRothschild,alovelyJewess;MissStrickland,theauthoressofthe\"QueensofEngland\";\"Eothen,\"andmanymore。

  Mr。Polk,CHARGEatNaples,andbrotherofthePresident,dinedwithus,andMissMurray,andintheeveningcameMr。andMrs。McLean,heasonofJudgeMcLean,ofOhio。

  June17thOnFridayeveningwewenttotheQueen’sBall,andforthefirsttimesawHerMajestydance,whichshedoesverywell,andsodoestheDuchessofSutherland,grandmotherthoughshebe。

  OnMondayeveningwewenttoaconcertgiventotheQueenbytheDukeofWellingtonatApsleyHouse。Thiswasanoccasionnottobeforgotten,butIcannotdescribeit。OnTuesdayIwentforthefirsttimetohearadebateuponthePortugalinterferenceintheHouseofLords。Itbroughtoutalltheleaders,andIwassofortunateastohearamostpowerfulspeechfromLordStanley,onefromLordLansdowneindefenceoftheMinistryandonefromtheDukeofWellington,who,onthisoccasion,sidedwiththeMinisters。OnWednesdaywasthegreatFETEgivenbytheDuchessofSutherlandtotheQueen。Itwaslikeachapterofafairytale。PersonsfromallthecourtsofEuropewhoweretheretoldusthatnowhereinEuropewasthereanythingasfineasthehallandgrandstaircasewheretheDuchessreceivedherguests。Itexceededmyutmostconceptionsofmagnificenceandbeauty。Thevastsizeoftheapartment,thevaultedceilings,thearabesqueornaments,thefinepictures,theprofusionofflowers,themusic,theflourishoftrumpets,astheQueenpassedbackwardandforward,thesuperbdressesanddiamondsofthewomen,theparti—coloredfulldressofthegentlemenallcontributedtomakeupascenenottobeforgotten。TheQueen’sBallwasnottobecomparedtoit,somuchmoreeffectiveisStaffordHousethanBuckinghamPalace……Wewerefortunatetobepresentthere,forStaffordHouseisnotopenedinthiswaybutonceinayearortwo,andtheDuke’shealthisnowsoveryuncertain,thatitmaybemanyyearsbeforeithappensagain。Hewasnotpresenttheotherevening。

  LETTER:ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。

  MydearUncleandAunt:

  LONDON,June20,1847

  Onthe19th,Saturday,webreakfastedwithLadyByronandmyfriend,MissMurray,atMr。Rogers’。HeandLadyByronhadnotmetformany,manyyears,andtheirrenewalofoldfriendshipwasveryinterestingtowitness。Mr。RogerstoldmethathefirstintroducedhertoLordByron。Afterbreakfasthehadbeenrepeatingsomelinesofpoetrywhichhethoughtfine,whenhesuddenlyexclaimed:\"ButthereisabitofAmericanPROSE,which,Ithink,hadmorepoetryinitthanalmostanymodernverse。\"Hethenrepeated,Ishouldthink,morethanapagefromDana’s\"TwoYearsBeforetheMast,\"describingthefallingoverboardofoneofthecrew,andtheeffectitproduced,notonlyatthemoment,butforsometimeafterward。I

  wonderedathismemory,whichenabledhimtorecitesobeautifullyalongprosepassage,somuchmoredifficultthanverse。Severalofthosepresentwithwhomthebookwasafavorite,weresogladtohearfrommethatitwasasTRUEasinteresting,fortheyhadregardeditaspartlyaworkofimagination。LadyByronhadtoldMr。RogerswhenshecameinthatLadyLovelace,herdaughter(Ada)

  wishedalsotopayhimavisit,andwouldcomeafterbreakfasttojoinusforhalfanhour。ShealsohadnotseenRogers,IBELIEVE,ever。LadyLovelacejoinedussoonafterbreakfast,andaswewerespeakingoftheenchantmentofStaffordHouseonWednesdayevening,Mr。Rogersproposedtogooveritandseeitsfinepicturesbydaylight。Heimmediatelywenthimselfbyashortbackpassagethroughtheparktoaskpermissionandreturnedwithalltheeagernessandgallantryofayoungmantosaythathehadobtainedit。Wehadthusanopportunityofseeing,inthemostleisurelywayandinthemostdelightfulsociety,thefinepicturesandnobleapartmentsofStaffordHouseagain……OnTuesdayMr。HallamtookustotheBritishMuseum,andbeingadirector,hecouldenteronaprivateday,whenwewerenotannoyedbyacrowd,and,moreover,wehadtheadvantageofthebestinterpretersandguides。Wedidnotevenenterthelibrary,whichrequiresadaybyitself,butconfinedourselvestotheAntiquityrooms……AsIenteredtheroomdevotedtotheElginmarbles,theworksofthe\"divinePhidias,\"Isteppedwithawe,asifenteringatemple,andtheSecretary,whowasbymyside,observingit,toldmethattheGrandDukeConstantine,whenhecameafewdaysbefore,made,asheentered,amostprofoundandreverentialbow。Thiswasoneofmymostdelightfulmornings,andIlefttheAntiquitieswithastrongerdesiretoseethemagainthanbeforeIhadseenthematall。

  Sunday,June27th……IwentonWednesdaytodineatLordMonteagle’stomeetFatherMathew,andtheArchbishopofDublin(Dr。Whately)alsodinedthere。

  FatherMathewspokewithgreatinterestofAmericaandofAmericanliberality,andisveryanxioustogotoourcountry。HesawMr。

  ForbesatCorkandspokeofhimwithgreatregard……On[Saturday]Mr。BancroftwenttothepalacetoseetheKingoftheBelgians,withtherestoftheDiplomaticCorps。AfterhisreturnwewenttoWestminsterHalltoseetheprizepictures,asLordLansdownehadsentusticketsfortheprivateview。TheCommissionofFineArtshaveofferedprizesforthebesthistoricalpicturesthatmayservetoadornthenewHousesofParliament,andthepicturesofthiscollectionwereallpaintedwiththatview。OneofthosewhichhavereceivedaprizeisJohnRobinsonbestowinghisfarewellblessinguponthePilgrimsatLeyden,whichisverypleasing。Itwastomelikeafriendinastrangecountry,andI

  lingeredoveritthelongest。

  July2dWednesday[evening]wewenttoLadyDuffGordon’s,whoisthedaughterofMrs。Austin,wherewasamostagreeableparty,andamongothers,Andersen,theDanishpoet—authorofthe\"Improvisatore。\"Hehasamoststrikingpoeticalphysiognomy,butashetalkedonlyGermanorbadFrench,IlefthimtoMr。Bancroftintheconversationway。

  Thenextmorningbeforenineo’clockweweretoldthatMr。Rogers,thepoet,wasdownstairs。Icouldnotimaginewhathadbroughthimoutsoearly,butfoundthatMoore,thepoet,hadcometotownandwouldstaybutaday,andwemustgothatverymorningandbreakfastwithhimatteno’clock。Wewentandfoundadelightfulcircle。I

  satbetweenMooreandRogers,whowasinhisverybesthumor。Mooreisbutawreck,butmostainterestingone。

  LETTER:ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。

  NunehamPark,July27,1847

  MydearUncleandAunt:……Imustgobacktothedaywhenmylastlettersweredespatched,asmylifesincehasbeenfullofinterest。OnMondayevening,the19th,wewenttotheFrenchplay,toseeRachelin\"Phedre。\"Shefarsurpassedmyimaginationintheexpressionofallthepowerfulpassions……OnTuesdayMr。

  BancroftwentdowntohearLordJohnmakeaspeechtohisconstituentsinthecity,whileIwenttoseeMissBurdett—Couttslaythecorner—stoneofthechurchwhich\"theBishopofLondonhaspermittedhertobuild,\"touseherownexpressioninhernotetome。Intheeveningwedinedtherewithmanyoftheclergy,andLordBrougham,LordDundonald,etc。IwentdownwiththeDeanofWestminster,whowasveryagreeableandinstructive。HeandDr。

  Whatelyhavethesimplicityofchildren,withanimmensedealofknowledge,whichtheyimpartinthemostpleasantway。Saturday,the24th,weweretoleavetownforourfirstcountryexcursion。WewereinvitedbyDr。Hawtrey,theHeadMasterofEton,tobepresentattheceremoniesaccompanyingtheannualelectionofsuchboysontheFoundationasareselectedtogouptoKing’sCollege,Cambridge,wheretheyarealsoplacedonaFoundation。FromreadingDr。Arnold’slifeyouwillhavelearnedthattheheadmasterofoneoftheseverygreatschoolsisnounimportantpersonage。Dr。

  Hawtreyhasanincomeofsixorseventhousandpounds。Heisunmarried,buthastwosinglesisterswholivewithhim,andhisestablishmentinoneoftheoldcollegehousesisfullofeleganceandcomfort。Wetookanopentravellingcarriagewithimperials,anddrovedowntoEtonwithourownhorses,arrivingaboutoneo’clock。Attwo,precisely,theProvostofKing’sCollege,Cambridge,wastoarrive,andtobereceivedundertheoldgatewayofthecloisterbytheCaptainoftheschoolwithaLatinspeech。

  Afterdinnerthereisaregattaamongtheboys,whichisoneofthecharacteristicandpleasingoldcustoms。AllthefashionablesofLondonwhohavesonsatEtoncomedowntowitnesstheirhappiness,andtheriverbankisfullofgayety。TheeveningfinishedwiththemostbeautifulfireworksIeversaw,whichlighteduptheCastlebehindandwerereflectedintheThamesbelow,whiletheglancingoarsoftheyoungboatmen,andthemusicoftheirbandwithamerrychimeofbellsfromSt。George’sChapel,above,allcombinedtogivegayetyandinteresttothescene。Thenextmorning(Sunday),afteranagreeablebreakfastinthelong,low—walledbreakfast—room,whichopensupontheflowergarden,wewenttoWindsortoworshipinSt。

  George’sChapel。TheQueen’sstallisratherlargerthantheothers,andoneisleftvacantforthePrinceofWales。

  LONDON,July29thAndnowwithanewsheetImustbeginmyaccountofNuneham……

  TheArchbishopofYorkisthesecondsonofLordVernon,buthisuncle,EarlHarcourt,dyingwithoutchildren,lefthimallhisestate,uponwhichhetookthenameofHarcourt。Wearrivedaboutfouro’clock……Thedinnerwasathalf—pastseven,andwhenI

  wentdownIfoundtheDuchessofSutherland,LadyCarolineLeveson—

  Gower,LordKildare,andseveralofthesonsanddaughtersoftheArchbishop。Thedinnerandeveningpassedoffveryagreeably。TheDuchessisamosthigh—bredperson,andthoroughlycourteous。Asweweregoinginoroutofaroominsteadofprecedingme,whichwasherright,shealwaysmademetakeherarm,whichwasadelicatewayofgettingoverherprecedence……Athalf—pastninethe[nextmorning]wemetinthedrawing—room,whentheArchbishopledthewaydowntoprayers。Thiswasabeautifulscene,forheisnowninety,andtohearhimreadtheprayerswithafirm,clearvoice,whilehisfamilyanddependentskneltabouthimwasapleasurenevertobeforgotten……AtfiveIwastodriveroundtheparkwiththeArchbishophimselfinhisopencarriage。Thisdrivewasmostcharming。Heexplainedeverything,toldmewhensuchtreeswouldbefelled,andwhencertaintractsofunderwoodwouldbefitforcutting,howoldthedifferent—sizeddeerwere——inshort,thewholeeconomyofanEnglishpark。Everyprettypointofview,too,hemademesee,andwasasactiveandwide—awakeasifhewerethirty,ratherthanninety……Thenextmorning,afterprayersandbreakfast,Itookmyleave。

  LETTER:ToA。H。

  BISHOP’SPALACE,NORWICH,August1stMydearAnn:HowIwishIcouldtransportyoutothespotwhereI

  amwriting,butifIcouldsummonitbeforeyouractualvisionyouwouldtakeitforadreamoraromance,sodifferentiseverythingwithinthewallswhichenclosetheprecinctsofanEnglishCathedralfromanythingwecanconceiveonoursideofthewater……SomeofthelearnedpeopleandnoblemenhaveformedanArchaeologicalSocietyforthestudyandpreservation[of]theinterestingarchitecturalantiquitiesofthekingdom,and[it]isupontheoccasionoftheannualmeetingofthissocietyforaweekatNorwichthattheBishophasinvitedustostayafewdaysatthepalaceandjointhemintheiragreeableantiquarianexcursions。WearrivedonFridayatfiveo’clockafteralongdulljourneyoffivehoursontherailway……Stayinginthehouseareourfriends,Mr。andMrs。Milman,LordNorthamptonandhisson,LordAlwyneCompton,andtheBishop’sfamily,consistingofMrs。Stanley,andoftwoMissStanleys,agreeableandhighlycultivatedgirls,andMr。ArthurStanley,thewriterofDr。Arnold’sBiography。

  Afterdinnercompanysoonarrived。AmongthemwereMrs。Opie,whoresideshere。Sheisapleasing,livelyoldlady,infullQuakerdress。Themostcuriousfeatureoftheeveningwasavisitwhichthecompanypaidtothecellarandkitchen,whichwerelightedupfortheoccasion。TheywerebuildbytheoldNormanbishopsofthetwelfthcentury,andhadvaultedstoneroofsasbeautifullycarvedandribbedasachurch。

  Thenextday,Saturday,theantiquariansmadealongexcursiontohuntupsomeruins,whiletheMilmans,Mr。Stanley,andourselves,wenttovisittheplaceofLadySuffield,abouttwelvemilesdistant,andwhichisthemostperfectspecimenoftheElizabethanstyle。LadySuffieldherselfisasElizabethanasherestablishment;sheisofone[of]theoldesthighToryfamiliesandsoopposedtoinnovationsofallsortsthatthoughherletters,whichusedtoarriveattwo,beforetheopeningoftherailwaytwoyearsago,nowarriveatseveninthemorning,theyareneverallowedtobebroughttilltheoldhour……ThismorningMr。

  BancroftandtherestaregoneonanexcursiontoYarmouthtoseesomeruins,whileIremainheretowitnessthechairingoftwonewmembersofParliament,whohavejustbeenelected,ofwhomLordDouro,sonoftheDukeofWellington,isone。

  LETTER:ToI。P。D。

  AUDLEYEND,October14,1847

  DearUncle:WearestayingforafewdaysatLordBraybrooke’splace,oneofthemostmagnificentinEngland;butbeforeIsayawordaboutitImusttellyouofA。’ssafearrivalandhowhappyI

  havebeenmadebyhavinghimwithmeagain……OnSaturdaythe9thwehadthehonorofdiningwiththeLORDMAYORtomeettheDukeofCambridge,aFETEsounlikeanythingelseandaccompaniedbysomanyoldandpeculiarcustomsthatImustdescribeittoyouatfulllength。TheMansionHouseisintheheartoftheCITY,andisverymagnificentandspacious,theEgyptianHall,asthedining—roomiscalled,beingoneofthenoblestapartmentsIhaveseen。Theguestswereabout250innumberandwerereceivedbytheLadyMayoressSITTING。Whendinnerwasannounced,theLordMayorwentoutfirst,precededbythesword—bearerandmace—bearerandalltheinsigniaofoffice。ThencametheDukeofCambridgeandtheLadyMayoress,thenMr。BancroftandItogether,whichisthecustomatthesegreatcivicfeasts。WemarchedthroughthelonggallerybythemusicofthebandtotheEgyptianHall,wheretworaisedseatslikethroneswereprovidedfortheLordMayorandMayoressattheheadofthehall。OntherighthandoftheLordMayorsattheDukeofCambridgeinaCOMMONCHAIR,forroyaltyyieldsentirelytotheMayor,onhisownground。OntherightoftheDukeofCambridgesattheMayoress—

  elect(forthepresentdignitariesgooutofofficeonthe1stofNovember)。OnthelefthandofthepresentLadyMayoresssattheLordMayor—ELECT,thenIcamewithmyhusbandonmylefthandinveryconjugalstyle。

  Therewerethreetablesthewholelengthofthehall,andthatatwhichwewereplacedwentacrossatthehead。Whenweareplaced,theheraldstandsbehindtheLordMayorandcries:\"MyLords,Ladies,andGentlemen,praysilence,forgrace。\"Thenthechaplaininhisgown,goesbehindtheLordMayorandsaysgrace。Afterthesecondcoursetwolargegoldcups,nearlytwofeethigh,areplacedbeforetheMayorandMayoress。Theheraldthencrieswithaloudvoice:\"HisRoyalHighnesstheDukeofCambridge,theAmericanMinister,theLordChiefBaron,\"etc。,etc。(enumeratingaboutadozenofthemostdistinguishedguests),\"andladiesandgentlemenall,theLordMayorandLadyMayoressdobidyoumostheartilywelcomeandinviteyoutodrinkinalovingcup。\"WhereupontheMayorandMayoressriseandeachturntotheirnextneighbor,whotakeoffthecoverwhiletheydrink。Aftermyright—handneighbor,theLordMayor—elect,hadputonthecover,heturnstomeandsays,\"Pleasetakeoffthecover,\"whichIdoandholditwhilehedrinks;

  thenIreplacethecoverandturnroundtoMr。Bancroft,whorisesandperformsthesameofficeformewhileIdrink;thenheturnstohisnextneighbor,whotakesoffthecoverforhim。IhavenotfeltsosolemnsinceIstooduptobemarriedaswhenMr。BancroftandI

  werestandingupalonetogether,therestofthecompanylookingon,Iwiththisgreatheavygoldcupinmyhand,soheavythatIcouldscarcelyliftittomymouthwithbothhands,andhewiththecoverbeforeme,withratheramischievousexpressioninhisface。Thencametwoimmensegoldplattersfilledwithrosewater,whichwerealsopassedround。Thesegoldvesselswereonlyusedbythepersonsattheheadtable;theotherguestswereservedwithsilvercups。

  Whenthedessertandthewineareplacedonthetable,theheraldsays,\"MyLords,Ladies,andGentlemen,pleasetochargeyourglasses。\"Afterwedulychargeourglassestheheraldcries:

  \"Lords,Ladies,andGentlemen,praysilencefortheLordMayor。\"Hethenrisesandproposesthefirsttoast,whichis,ofcourse,always\"TheQueen。\"Afteratimecamethe\"AmericanMinister,\"whowasobligedtoriseupatmyelbowandrespond。Wegothomejustaftertwelve。

  AndnowletmetrytogiveyousomefaintideaofAudleyEnd,whichisbyfarthemostmagnificenthouseIhaveseenyet。ItwasbuiltbytheEarlofSuffolk,sonoftheDukeofNorfolkwhowasbeheadedinElizabeth’sreignforhightreason,uponthesiteofanabbey,thelandsofwhichhadbeengrantedbythecrowntothatpowerfulfamily。OneoftheEarlsofSuffolkdyingwithoutsons,theEARLDOM

  passedintoanotherbranchandtheBARONYandESTATEofHowarddeWaldencameintothefemaleline。Incourseoftime,aLordHowarddeWaldendyingwithoutason,histitlealsopassedintoanotherfamily,buthisestatewenttohisnephew,LordBraybrooke,thefatherofthepresentLord。LadyBraybrookeisthedaughteroftheMarquisofCornwallis,andgranddaughterofourAmericanLordCornwallis。

  ThehouseisoftheElizabethanperiodandisoneofthebestpreservedspecimensofthatstyle,butofitsvastextentandmagnificenceIcangiveyounoidea。Wearrivedaboutfiveo’clock,andwereusheredthroughanimmensehallofcarvedoakhungwithbannersupafinestaircasetothegrandsaloon,wherewewerereceivedbythehostandhostess。NowofthisgrandsaloonImusttrytogiveyouaconception。Itwas,Ishouldthink,fromseventy—

  fivetoonehundredfeetinlength。Theceilingoverheadwasveryrichwithhangingcorbels,likestalactites,andtheentirewallswerepanelled,withafull—lengthfamilyportraitineachpanel,whichwasarchedatthetop,sothatthewholewallwascomposedoftheseround—toppedpictureswithrichgildingbetween。

  Notwithstandingitsvastsize,thesofasandtablesweresodisposedallovertheapartmentastogiveitthemostfriendly,warm,andsocialaspect。

  LadyBraybrookeherselfusheredmetomyapartments,whichwerethestaterooms。FirstcameMr。Bancroft’sdressing—room,wherewasablazingfire。Thencamethebedroom,withthestatebedofblueandgold,coveredwithembroidery,andwiththearmsandcoronetofHowarddeWalden。Thewallswerehungwithcrimsonandwhitedamask,andthesofasandchairsalso,anditwassurroundedbypictures,amongothersafulllengthofQueenCharlotte,justoppositethefootofthebed,alwayssalutedmeeverymorningwhenI

  awoke,withherfan,herhoop,andherdeepruffles。

  Mydressing—room,whichwasontheoppositesidefromMr。

  Bancroft’s,wasaperfectgem。ItwaspaintedbythefamousRebeccowhocameoverfromItalytoornamentsomanyofthegreatEnglishhousesatonetime。Thewholeceilingandwallswerecoveredwithbeautifuldesignsandwithgilding,andabeautifulrecessforacouchwassupportedbyflutedgildedcolumns;thearchitravesandmouldingsofthedoorsweregilt,andthepanelsofthedoorswerefilledwithRebecco’sbeautifuldesigns。Thechairswereoflightblueembroideredwiththick,heavygold,andallthisbearingthestampofantiquitywasathousandtimesmoreinterestingthanmeremodernsplendor。Inthecentreoftheroomwasatoiletofwhitemuslin(universalhere),andonitagiltdressing—glass,whichgaveprettyeffecttothewhole。

  IsatatdinnerbetweenLordBraybrookeandSirJohnBoileau,andfoundthembothveryagreeable。Thedining—roomisasmagnificentastheotherapartments。TheceilingisintheElizabethanstyle,coveredwithfigures,andthewallswhiteandgoldpanellinghungwithfull—lengthfamilyportraitsnotsetintothewalllikethesaloon,butinframes。Intheeveningtheyoungpeoplehadaroundgameatcardsandtheelderonesseemedtoprefertalkingtoagameatwhist。Theladiesbroughtdowntheirembroideryornetting。Atelevenatraywithwineandwaterisbroughtinandaquantityofbedcandlesticks,andeverybodyretireswhentheylike。Thenextmorningtheguestsassembledathalf—pastnineinthegreatgallerywhichleadstothechapeltogointogethertoprayers。Thechapelisreallyabeautifullittlepieceofarchitecture,withavaultedroofandwindowsofpaintedglass。OnonesideistheoriginalcastofthelargemonumenttoLordCornwallis(ourlord)whichisinWestminsterAbbey。Afterbreakfastwepassedacoupleofhoursingoingalloverthehouse,whichisinperfectkeepingineverypart。

  Wereturnedtothelibrary,aroomassplendidasthesaloon,onlyinsteadofpicturedpanelsitwassurroundedbybooksinbeautifulgiltbindings。IntheimmensebaywindowwasalargeLouisQuatorzetable,roundwhichtheladiesallplacedthemselvesattheirembroidery,thoughIpreferredlookingovercuriousilluminatedmissals,etc。,etc。

  ThenextdaywasthemeetingoftheCountyAgriculturalSociety……Atthehourappointedweallrepairedtothegroundwheretheprizesweretobegivenout……LordBraybrookemadefirstamostpaternalandinterestingaddress,whichshowedmeinthemostfavorableviewtherelationbetweenthenobleandthelowerclassinEngland,arelationwhichmustdependmuchonthepersonalcharacterofthelordofthemanor……Firstcameprizestoploughmen,thentheploughboys,thentheshepherds,thentosuchpeasantsashadrearedmanychildrenwithoutaid,thentowomenwhohadbeenmanyyearsinthesamefarmer’sservice,etc。,etc。Aclockwasawardedtoapoormanandhiswifewhohadrearedsixchildrenandburiedsevenwithoutaidfromtheparish。TherapturewithwhichMr。andMrs。Flittonandthewholesixchildrengazedonthisclock,animmensetreasureforapeasant’scottage,wasbothcomicandaffecting……Thenextmorningwemadeouradieustoourkindhostandhostess,andsetoffforLondon,accompaniedbySirJohnTyrrell,MajorBeresford,andyoungMr。Boileau。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。

  LONDON,November4,1847

  DearW。:……Mr。BancroftandIdinedonFriday,the22d,withMr。andMrs。Hawes,under—SecretaryofState,tomeetMr。Brooke,theRajahofSarawak,whoisagreatlioninLondonjustnow。HeisanEnglishgentlemanoflargefortunewhohasdonemuchtoChristianizeBorneo,andtoopenitstradetotheEnglish。IsatbetweenhimandMr。Ward,formerlyMinistertoMexicobeforeMr。

  Pakenham。HewroteaverynicebookonMexico,andisanagreeableandintelligentperson……OnWednesdayA。andIwenttogethertotheNationalGallery,andjustasweweresettingoutMr。ButlerofNewYorkcameinandIinvitedhimtojoinus……WhilewewereseatedbeforeacharmingClaudewhoshouldcomeinbutMr。R。W。

  Emersonandwehadquiteajoyfulgreeting。JustthencameinMr。

  Rogerswithtwoladies,oneoneacharm。HerenewedhisrequestthatIwouldbringmysontobreakfastwithhim,andappointedFridaymorning,andthenaddedifthosegentlemenwhoarewithyouareyourfriendsandcountrymen,perhapstheywillaccompanyyou。

  Theyverygladlyacceded,andIwasthankfulMr。Emersonhadchancedtobewithmeatthatmomentasitprocuredhimahighpleasure。

  YesterdayyourfatherandIdinedwithSirGeorgeGrey……Aboutfouro’clockcameonsuchafogasIhavenotseeninLondon,andthenewspapersofthismorningspeakofitasgreaterthanhasbeenknownformanyyears。SirGeorgeGreylivesinEatonPlace,whichisparallelandjustbehindEatonSquare。Ingoingthatlittledistance,thoughthereisabrilliantgaslightateverydoor,thecoachmanwascompletelybewildered,andlosthimselfentirely。Wecouldonlywalkthehorses,thefootmanexploringahead。Whentheguestsbydegreesarrived,therewasthesamerejoicingasifwehadmetonMontSt。BernardafteracontestwithanAlpinesnow—storm……LadyGreytoldmeshewasdiningwiththeQueenonceinoneofthesetremendousfogs,andthatmanyoftheguestsdidnotarrivetilldinnerwashalfthrough,whichwashorribleataroyaldinner;

  buttheelementscarelittleforroyalty。

  November14thOnSaturdaywedinedattheDucdeBroglie’s。HemarriedthedaughterofMadamdeStael,butsheisnotnowliving。IwasveryagreeablyplacedwithMr。Macaulayononesideofme,sothatI

  founditmorepleasantthandiplomaticdinnersusually。AttheEnglishtableswemeetpeoplewhoknoweachotherwell,andhaveacommoncultureandtastesandhabitsoffamiliarity,andafundofpleasantstories,butofcourse,atforeigntables,theyneitherknoweachotherortheEnglishsowellastogivethesameeasyflowtoconversation。Iamafraidwearethegreatestdiners—outinLondon,butwearebroughtintocontactagreatdealwiththeliteraryandParliamentarypeople,whichourcolleaguesknowlittleabout,asalsowiththeclergyandthejudges。Ishouldnotbewillingtomakeitthehabitofmylife,butitistimenotmisspentduringtheyearsofourabodehere……ThegoodoldArchbishopofYorkisdead,andIamgladIpaidmyvisittohimwhenIdid。Mr。

  Rogershaspaidmealongvisitto—dayandgavemealltheparticularsofhisdeath。ItwasasubjectIshouldnothaveintroduced,forofthatknotofintimatefriends,Mr。Grenville,theArchbishop,andhimself,heisnowallthatremains。

  November28th……OnMondayeveningIwentwithoutMr。BancrofttoalittlepartyatMrs。Lyell’s,whereIwasintroducedtoMrs。Somerville。

  Shehasresidedforthelastnineyearsabroad,chieflyatVenice,buthasnowcometoLondonandtakenahouseverynearus……Herdaughtertoldmethatnothingcouldexceedtheeaseandsimplicitywithwhichherliteraryoccupationswerecarriedon。SheisjustpublishingabookuponNaturalGeographywithoutregardtopoliticalboundaries。Shewritesprincipallybeforesherisesinthemorningonalittlepieceofboard,withherinkstandonatablebyherside。Aftersheleavesherroomsheisasmuchatleisureasotherpeople,butifanideastrikeshershetakesherlittleboardintoacornerorwindowandwritesquietlyforashorttimeandreturnstojointhecircle。

  Dr。Somervilletoldmethathiswifedidnotdiscoverhergeniusformathematicstillshewasaboutsixteen。Herbrother,whohasnotalentforit,wasreceivingamathematicallessonfromamasterwhileshewashemmingandstitchingintheroom。InthiswayshefirstheardtheproblemsofEuclidstatedandwasravished。Whenthelessonwasover,shecarriedoffthebooktoherroomanddevouredit。Foralongtimeshepursuedherstudiessecretly,asshehadscaledheightsofsciencewhichwerenotconsideredfemininebythoseabouther。

  December2dIputdownmypenyesterdaywhenthecarriagecametothedoorformydrive。Itwasadaybright,beaming,andexhilaratingasoneofourownwinterdays。IwassobusyenjoyingtheunusualbeamsoftheuncloudedsunthatIdidnotperceiveforsometimethatIhadleftmymuff,andwasobligedtodrivehomeagaintogetit。WhileIwaswaitinginthecarriageforthefootmantogetit,twoofthemostagreeableold—ladyfacesintheworldpresentedthemselvesatthewindow。TheyweretheMissBerrys。Theyhaddrivenupbehindmeandgotouttohavealittletalkonthesidewalk。ItookthemintoMr。Bancroft’sroomandwasthankfulthatmymuffhadsentmebacktoreceiveavisitwhichattheirageisrarelypaid……I

  foundthemfullofdelightatMr。Brooke,theRajahofSarawak,withwhosenoblenessofsoultheywouldhavegreatsympathy。HeisjustnowthelionofLondon,andlikeallotherlionsisrunafterbymostpeoplebecauseheisone,andbythefewbecausehedeservestobeone。Now,lestyoushouldknownothingabouthim,letmetellyouthatathisownexpensehefittedoutavessel,andestablishedhimselfatBorneo,wherehesoonacquiredsogreat[an]ascendancyoverthenativeRajah,thatheinsistedonresigningtohimthegovernmentofhisprovinceofSarawak。Here,withonlythreeEuropeancompanions,bymoralandintellectualforcealone,hesucceededinsuppressingpiracyandcivilwaramongthenativesandopenedatradewiththeinteriorofBorneowhichpromisesgreatadvantagestoEngland……EverybodyherehastheINFLUENZA——aright—downinfluenza,thatsendspeopletotheirbeds。Thosewhohavetriumphedattheirexemptionintheevening,wakeupperhapsinthemorningfullofachesineverylimb,andscoffnolonger……

  Dinnerpartiesaresometimesquitebrokenupbytheexcusesthatcomepouringinatthelastmoment。LadyJohnRussellhadsevenlastweekatasmalldinneroftwelve;1,200policemenatonetimeweretakenoffduty,sothatthethievesmighthavehadtheirownway,buttheywereprobablyasbadlyoffthemselves。

  LETTER:ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。

  LONDON,December16,1847

  MydearUncleandAunt:……OnSaturdayMr。HallamwroteusthatSirRobertPeelhadpromisedtobreakfastwithhimonMondaymorningandhethoughtweshouldliketomeethiminthatquietway。Sowepresentedourselvesatteno’clock,andwerejoinedbySirRobert,LordMahon,Macaulay,andMilman,whowithHallamhimself,formedacirclethatcouldnotbeexceededinthewideworld。Iwastheonlylady,exceptMissHallam;butIamespeciallyfavoredinthebreakfastline。IwouldcrosstheAtlanticonlyforthepleasureI

  hadthatmorninginhearingsuchmentalkfortwoorthreehoursinanentirelyeasyunceremoniousbreakfastway。SirRobertwasfullofstories,andshowedhimselfasmuchthescholarasthestatesman。

  Macaulaywasoverflowingasusual,andLordMahonandMilmanarefulloflearningandaccomplishments。Theclassicalscholarshipofthesemenisveryperfectandsometimesonecatchesaglimpseofawfullydeepabyssesoflearning。ButthenitisONLYaglimpse,fortheirlearninghasnocumbrousanddullpedantryaboutit。Theyareallmenofsocietyandmenoftheworld,whokeepupwithiteverywhere。Thereismanyapleasantstoryandmanyagoodjoke,andeverythingdiscussedbutpolitics,which,asSirRobertandMacaulaybelongtooppositedynasties,mightbedangerousground。

  AfterdinnerwewentalittlebeforetentoLadyCharlotteLindsay’s。ShecamelastweektosaythatshewastohavealittledinneronMondayandwishedustocomeinafterwards。Thisisuniversalhere,andistheeasiestandmostagreeableformofsociety。ShehadLordBroughamandColonelandMrs。Dawson—Damer,etc。,todine……Mrs。Damerwishedustocomethenexteveningtoherinthesameway,justtogetourcupoftea。ThesenicelittleteasarewhatyouneedinBoston。Thereisnosupper,noexpense,nothingbutsociety。Mrs。DameristhegranddaughterofthebeautifulLadyWaldegrave,thenieceofHoraceWalpole,whomarriedtheDukeofGloucester。ShewasleftanorphanatayearoldandwasconfidedbyhermothertothecareofMrs。Fitzherbert。

  ShelivedwithheruntilhermarriageandwasagreatpetofGeorgeIV,andtellsagreatmanyinterestingstoriesofhimandMrs。

  Fitzherbert,whowasfiveyearsolderthanhe。

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