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  LETTER:TOW。D。B。ANDA。B。

  LIVERPOOL,October26,1846

  Mydearsons:ThankGodwithmethatweareoncemoreonTERRA

  FIRMA。Wearrivedyesterdaymorningatteno’clock,afteraveryroughvoyageandafterridingallnightintheChannelinatremendousgale,sobadthatnopilotcouldreachustobringusinonSaturdayevening。Arecordofaseavoyagewillbeonlyinterestingtoyouwholoveme,butImustgiveittoyouthatyoumayknowwhattoexpectifyoueverundertakeit;butfirst,Imustsumitallupbysayingthatofallhorrors,ofallphysicalmiseries,tortures,anddistresses,aseavoyageisthegreatest……TheLiverpoolpaperthismorning,afterannouncingourarrivalsays:\"TheGREATWESTERn,notwithstandingsheencounteredthroughoutaseriesofmostseveregales,accomplishedthepassageinsixteendaysandtwelvehours。\"

  TobeginatthemomentIleftNewYork:IwassoabsorbedbythepainofpartingfromyouthatIwasinastateofcompleteapathywithregardtoallaboutme。Ididnotsentimentalizeabout\"therecedingshoresofmycountry;\"Ihardlylookedatthem,indeed。

  FridayIwasawokeinthemiddleofthenightbytheroaringofthewindandseaandSUCHmotionofthevessel。

  ThegalelastedallSaturdayandSunday,strongfromtheNorth,andaswewereintheregionwherethewatersoftheBayofFundyrunoutandmeetthoseoftheGulfofSt。Lawrence,afterwardswehadastrongcrosssea。Mayyouneverexperiencea\"crosssea。\"……OhhowIwishedithadpleasedGodtoplantsomelittleislandsasresting—placesinthegreatwasteofwaters,somerestingstation。

  Butno,wemustkeepon,on,witheverythinginmotionthatyoureyecouldreston。Everythingtumblingabout……Welivedthroughit,however,andthesunofSundaymornroseclearandbright。ApilotgotonboardaboutsevenandattenwewereinLiverpool。

  WeareattheAdelphi。BeforeIhadtakenoffmybonnetMr。RichardRathbone,oneofthewealthiestmerchantshere,calledtoinviteustodinethenextday……Mrs。RichardRathbonehaswrittenthatbeautiful\"DiaryofLadyWilloughby,\"and,whatismore,theysayitisaperfectreflectofherownlovelylifeandcharacter。Whenshepublishedthebooknooneknewofitbutherhusband,notevenherbrothersandsisters,and,ofcourse,sheconstantlyheardspeculationsastotheauthenticityofthebook,andwasoftenappealedtoforheropinion。Sheisveryunpretendingandsweetinhermanners;talkslittle,andseemsnotatalllikealiterarylady。

  IlikethesepeopleinLiverpool。Theyseemtometothinklessoffashionandmoreofsubstantialexcellencethanourwealthypeople。

  Iamnotsurebuttheexistenceofahigherclassabovethemhasafavorableeffect,bylimitingtheminsomeways。Thereismuchlessshowoffurnitureinthehousesthanwithus,thoughtheirservantsandequipagesareinmuchbetterkeeping。Iamnotsorrytobedetainedhereforafewdaysbymyillnesstobecomeacquaintedwiththem,andIthinkyourfatherlikesitalso,andwillfinditusefultohim。Letmesay,whileIthinkofit,howmuchIwaspleasedwiththeGREATWESTERN。Thatuppersaloonwiththeairpassingthroughitwasagreatcomforttome。Thecaptain,theservants,thetable,areallexcellent。Everythingonboardwasasniceasinthebesthotel,andmygruelsandbrothsbeautifullymade。OneofthestewardessesdidmoreformethanIeverhaddonebyanyservantofmyown……YourfatherandLouisawereillbutthreeorfourdays,andthenyourfatherreadTacitusandtalkedtotheladies,whileLouisaplayedwiththeotherchildren。

  TheAdelphi,myfirstspecimenofanEnglishhotel,isperfectlycomfortable,andthoughanimmenseestablishment,isquietasaprivatehouse。ThereisnoneofthebustleoftheAstor,andifI

  ringmybedroombellitisansweredbyawomanwhoattendstomeassiduously。Thelandlordpaysusavisiteverydaytoknowifwehaveallwewish。

  LONDON,Sunday,November1

  HereIaminthemightyheart,butbeforeIsayonewordaboutitI

  willgoonfromWednesdayeveningwithmyjournal。OnThursday,thoughstillveryfeeble,IdinedatGreenBank,thecountry—seatofMr。WilliamRathbone。IwasunwillingtoleaveLiverpoolwithoutsharingwithyourfathersomeofthehospitalitiesofferedtousandmadeagreatefforttogo。Theplaceisverybeautifulandthehousefullofcomfortableelegance。

  ThenextmorningwestartedforBirmingham,ninety—sevenmilesfromLiverpool,onourwaytoLondon,asIamunabletotravelthewholewayinaday。OnthisrailwayIfeltforthefirsttimethesuperiorityofEnglandtoourowncountry。Thecarsaredividedintofirst,second,andthirdclasses。Wetookafirst—classcar,whichhasallthecomfortsofaprivatecarriage。

  JustasweenteredBirminghamIobservedthefinestseat,surroundedbyaparkwallandwithaverypicturesqueoldchurch,thatIhadseenontheway。OnenquiringofyoungMr。VanWart,whocametoseeusinBirmingham(thenephewofWashingtonIrving),whoseplaceitwas,hesaiditwasnowcalledAstonHallandwasownedbyMr。

  Watt,butitwasformerlyownedbytheBracebridges,andwastheveritable\"BracebridgeHall,\"andthathisunclehadpassedhisChristmasthere。

  OnarrivingherewefoundourroomsallreadyforusatLong’sHotel,keptbyMr。Markwell,awinemerchant。ThehouseisinNewBondStreet,intheverycentreofmovementattheWestEnd,andMr。

  Markwellfullofpersonalassiduity,whichweneverseewithus。Hecomestothecarriagehimself,givesmehisarmtogoupstairs,issomuchobligedtousforhonoringhishouse,ushersyouintodinner,atleastonthefirstday,andseatsyou,etc。,etc。

  Donotimagineusinfresh,new—lookingroomsasweshouldbeinNewYorkorPhiladelphia。No,inLondonevennewthingslookold,butalmosteverythingISold。Ourparlorhasthreewindowsdowntothefloor,butitisverydark。Thepaintismaplecolor,andeverythingisdingyinappearance。Thewindowinmybedroomlookslikeahornlantern,sothickisthesmoke,andyeteverythingisscrupulouslyclean。Onourarrival,Boyd,theSecretaryofLegation,sooncame,andstayedtodinewithusatsix。Ourdinnerwasanexcellentsoup,theboiledcodgarnishedwithfriedsmelts,theroastbeefandaFRICANDEAUwithsweetbreads,thenapheasant,andafterwards,dessert。

  ThismorningMr。Batescameveryearlytoseeus,andthenMr。

  JosephCoolidge,wholooksveryyoungandhandsome;thenMr。Colman,whoalsolooksverywell,Mr。BoydandaMr。Haight,ofNewYork,andMr。Gair,sonofMr。GairofLiverpool,apleasingyoungman。

  MondayEveningThismorningcameMr。Aspinwall,thenCaptainWormeley,thenDr。

  Holland,thenMrs。Bates,thenMr。JosephJayandhissister,thenTomAppleton,Mrs。andMissWormeley,andMrs。FranklinDexter。Dr。

  Hollandcameasecondtimetotakemeadrive,butMrs。Batesbeingwithmehetookyourfather。Mrs。Batestookmetodosomeshopping,andtoseeaboutsomehouses。Theyareverydesirousweshouldbeintheirneighborhood,inPortlandPlace,butIhaveafancymyselfforthenewpartoftown。Ihavebeensousedallmylifetoseethingsfreshandclean—looking,thatIcannotgetaccustomedtotheLondondinge,andsomeofthefinesthouseslooktomeasthoughIwouldliketogivethemagoodscouring。TellCousinM。nevertocometoEngland,shewouldbeshockedeveryminute,withallthegrandeur。Anewcountryiscleaner—looking,thoughitmaynotbesopicturesque。

  IgotyourletterswhenIarrivedhere,andIwishthismaygiveyoubutalittlepleasuretheygaveme。Prayneverletasteamercomewithoutatokenfrombothofyou……WithlovetoGrandmaandUncleThomas,believeme,withmorelovethaneverbefore,ELIZABETHD。BANCROFT

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  LONDON,November3,1846……Thisday,atfive,yourfatherhadhisfirstinterviewwithLordPalmerston,whowillacquainttheQueenwithhisarrival,andaftershehasreceivedhimweshallleaveourcardsuponalltheministersandCORPSDIPLOMATIQUE。

  November4thYourfatherhadamostagreeabledinneratLordHolland’s。HemetthereLordandLadyPalmerston,LordMorpeth,LorddeMauley,Mr。

  Harcourt,asonoftheArchbishopofYork,etc。HetookoutLadyHollandandLordMorpeth,LadyPalmerston,theonlyladiespresent。

  HollandHouseissurroundedby200acresinthemidstofthewesternpartofLondon,orratherKensington。LordHollandhasnochildren,andthefamilydieswithhim。TheydinedintheroominwhichAddisondied。

  To—day,tomysurprise,cameLadyPalmerston,whichwasagreatcourtesy,asitwasmyplacetomakethefirstvisit。SheisthesisterofLordMelbourne。LorddeMauleyhasalsobeenhere……

  To—dayIhavebeendrivingthroughsomeofthebeststreetsinLondon,andmyideasofitsextentandmagnificencearerisingfast。

  Thehousesaremorepicturesquethanours,andsomeofthemmostnoble。Thevastnessofagreatcapitallikethiscannotburstupononeatonce。Itseffectincreasesdaily。TheextentofthePark,surroundedbymansionswhichlook,someofthem,likeawholehistoryinthemselves,hasto—dayquitedazzledmyimagination。

  November5thThismorning,Thursday,cameaninvitationtodinewithLordandLadyPalmerstononSaturday。SirGeorgeGrey,anotheroftheministers,cametoseeusto—dayandLordMahon。YourfatherandI

  havebeenallthemorninglookingathouses,andhavenearlyconcludedupononeinEatonSquare。Wefindahotelveryexpensive,andnotverycomfortableforus,asyourfatherisveryrestivewithouthisbooksabouthim。Mr。Harcourtalsocametoseeusto—

  day。ImentionasmanyofthenamesofourvisitorsasIcanrecollect,asitwillgiveyousomeideaofthecompositionofEnglishsociety……Thismomentalargecardinanenvelopehasbeenbroughtme,whichrunsthus:\"TheLordStewardhasreceivedHerMajesty’scommandstoinviteMr。BancrofttodinneratWindsorCastleonThursday,12thNovember,toremainuntilFriday,13th。\"I

  amgladhewilldinetherebeforeme,thathemaytellmetheorderofperformances。

  Friday,November6th……Wehadto—dayadelightfulvisitfromRogers,thePoet,whoisnowquiteold,butwithamostinterestingcountenance。Hewasfullofcordiality,and,atparting,ashetookmyhand,said:\"Ouracquaintancemustbecomefriendship。\"Mr。Harcourtcameagainandsatanhourwithus,andhasintroducedyourfatherattheTraveller’sClubandtheAthenaeumClub。To—nightcamemynewlady’smaid,Russell。Shedresseshairbeautifully,butisrathertoogreatapersontosuitmyfancy。

  SundayEvening,November8thOnFridayeveningwemetatMrs。Wormeley’sacosylittleknotofAmericans。TheDexterswerestayingthereandtherewereMr。andMrs。AtkinsonandMissPratt,Mr。andMrs。Aspinwall,Mr。andMissJay,Mr。andMrs。Putnam,Mr。Colman,Mr。Pickering,etc。

  WednesdayEveningOnMondaywecametoourHOME,preferringittothehotel,thoughitisnotyetinorderforourreception,andwehavenotyetallourservants。LasteveningwedinedwithLordMorpethathisfather’shouse。Hisfamilyarealloutoftown,butheremainsbecauseofhisministerialduties。LordMorpethtookmeoutandIsatbetweenhimandSirGeorgeGrey。YourfathertookoutLadyTheresaLewis,whoisasisterofLordClarendon。ShewasfullofintelligenceandIlikeherextremely。BaronandLadyParke(adistinguishedjudge),LadyMorgan,Mr。Mackintosh,Dr。andMrs。Holland(SidneySmith’sdaughter),andMr。andMrs。FranklinDexter,withseveralothersweretheparty。

  DuringdinneronegentlemanwassoveryagreeablethatIwonderedwhohecouldbe,butasLordPalmerstonhadtoldmethatMr。

  MacaulaywasinEdinburgh,Ididnotthinkofhim。Aftertheladiesleftthegentlemen,myfirstquestiontoMrs。Hollandwasthenameofhernextneighbor。\"Why,Mr。Macaulay,\"washeranswer,andI

  waspleasednottohavebeendisappointedinapersonofwhomIhadheardsomuch。WhenthegentlemencameinIwasintroducedtohimandtalkedtohimandheardhimtalknotalittle。

  Thesepersonsallcamethenextdaytoseeus,whichgaverisetofreshinvitations。

  ThismorningwehavebeendrivingroundtoleavecardsontheCORPS

  DIPLOMATIQUE,andMr。HarcourthastakenmeallovertheAthenaeumClub—house,asuperbestablishment。TheyhavegivenyourfatheraninvitationtotheClub,aprivilegewhichissometimessoughtforyears,Mr。Harcourtsays……HaveInotneededallmyenergies?

  Wehavebeenherejustafortnight,andIcamesoillthatIcouldhardlywalk。Wearenowathousekeeping,andIaminthefullcareerinLondonsociety。TheytoldmeIshouldseenooneuntilspring,butyouseewedineoutorgooutintheeveningalmosteveryday……ForthegratificationofS。D。orAuntI。,whomaywonderhowIgetalongindressmatters,goingoutasIdidinmyplainblackdress,IwilltellyouthatMrs。Murray,theQueen’sdressmaker,mademe,assoonasIfoundthesecallsandinvitationspouringin,twodresses。Oneofblackvelvet,verylow,withshortsleeves,andanotherofveryrichblackwateredsilk,withdraperyofblacktulleonthecorsageandsleeves……Ihavefittedmyselfwithseveralprettylittlehead—dresses,someinsilver,somewithplumes,butallwhite,andIfindmyvelvetandsilksuitalloccasions。Idonotlikediningwithbarearmsandneck,butI

  must。

  Tuesday,November17thLasteveningwepassedattheEarlofAuckland’s,theheadoftheAdmiralty。ThepartywasattheAdmiralty,wherethereisabeautifulresidenceforthefirstlord……IhadalongtalkwithLordMorpethlasteveningaboutMr。Sumner,andtoldhimofhisnomination。Hehasastrongregardforhim……NotamomenthaveIhadtoaLondon\"lion。\"IhavedrivenpastWestminster,buthavenotbeeninit。IhaveseennothingofLondonbutwhatcameinmywayinreturningvisits。

  LETTER:ToI。P。D。

  LONDON,November17,1846

  MydearUncle:IcannothelprefreshingtheremembranceofmewithyouanddearAuntybyaddressingaseparatelettertoyou……

  Yesterdaywehailedwithdelightourlettersfromhome……Onefeelsinaforeignlandtheabsenceofcommonsympathiesandinterests,whichalwayssurroundusinanypartofourowncountry。

  Andyetnothingcanexceedthekindnesswithwhichwehavebeenreceivedhere。

  LasteveningIwenttomyfirstgreatEnglishdinneranditwasamostagreeableone……Itseemsalittleoddtoarepublicanwomantofindherselfinrightofhercountrytakingprecedenceofmarchionesses,butonesoongetsusedtoallthings。Wesatdowntodinnerateightandgotthroughaboutten。Whentheladiesrose,I

  foundIwasexpectedtogofirst。Afterdinnerotherguestswereinvitedandtothefirstpersonwhocamein,abouthalf—pastten,LadyPalmerstonsaid:\"Oh,thankyouforcomingsoearly。\"ThiswasLadyTankervilleoftheoldFrenchfamilyofdeGrammontandniecetoPrincePolignac。ThenextwasLadyEmilydeBurgh,thedaughteroftheMarchionessofClanricarde,abeautifulgirlofseventeen。Sheisverylovely,wearsaGrecianbraidroundherheadlikeacoronet,andalwayssitsbyhermother,whichwouldnotsuitouryounggirls。ThencameLordandLadyAshley,LordEbrington,andsomanytitledpersonagesthatIcannotrememberhalf。

  Thedinnerismuchthesameasoursinallitsmodesofserving,buttheyhavesolesandturbot,insteadofourfishes,andtheirpheasantsarenotourpheasants,ortheirpartridgesourpartridges。

  Neitherhavewesomanyfootmenwithliveriesofallcolours,orsomuchgoldandsilverplate……ThenextmorningMr。BancroftbreakfastedwithDr。HollandtomeettheMarquisofLansdownealone。

  [Thursday]hewentdowntoWindsortodinewiththeQueen。HetookouttodinnertheQueen’smother,theDuchessofKent,theQueengoingwiththePrinceofSaxe—Weimar,whowaspayingavisitattheCastle。HetalkedGermantotheDuchessduringdinner,whichI

  suspectsheliked,fortheQueenspokeofittohimafterwards,andLordPalmerstontoldmetheDuchesssaidhespokeverypureGerman。

  WhilehewasdiningatWindsorIwenttoapartyallaloneattheCountessGrey’s,whichIthoughtrequiredsomecourage。

  OfallthepersonsIseeheretheMarquisofLansdowneexcitesthemostlivelyregard。HiscountenanceandmannersarefullofbenevolenceandIthinkheunderstandsAmericabetterthananyoneelseofthehigharistocracy。ItoldhimIwasbornatPlymouthandwasasproudofmypureAnglo—SaxonPilgrimdescentasifitweretracedfromalineofNormanConquerors。Nearlyalltheministersandtheirwivescametoseeusimmediately,withoutwaitingforustomakethefirstvisit,whichistherule,andalmosteverypersonwhomwehavemetinsociety,whichcertainlyindicatesanamiablefeelingtowardourcountry。Wecouldnotwellhavereceivedmorecourtesythanwehavedone,andithasbeenextendedfreelyandimmediately,withoutwaitingfortheformsofetiquette。PraysaytoMr。Everetthowoftenwehearpersonsspeakofhim,andwithhighestregard。Ifeelasifwewerereapingsomeofthefruitsofhissowing。

  Mr。Bancroftsendsyouapackofcards,oneoftheidenticaltwopackswithwhichtheQueenplayedPatiencetheeveninghewasatWindsor。Theyweretheperquisiteofapagewhobroughtthemtohim。HewasmuchpleasedwiththeQueenandthoughthermuchprettierthananyrepresentationofherwhichwehaveseen,andwithaverysweetexpression。LadyHollandhadbeenstayingtwoorthreedaysatWindsor,andwastoleavethenextmorning。WhentheQueentookleaveofheratnight,shekissedherquiteinmyVirginiafashion。

  DearUncle:Howmuchmoreyourniecewouldhavewrittenifto—daywerenotpacketday,Icannotsay。IshallsendyousomenewspapersandapackofcardswhichIsawintheQueen’shands。TheAmericanMinisterandMrs。Bancrofthavesinceplayedagameofpiquetwiththem。TheQueen’shandswereascleanashersmilewasgracious。

  BestregardstotheJudgeandAuntIsaac。

  Yoursmosttruly,GeorgeBancroft。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  LONDON,November29,1846

  AfteralongintervalIfindagainaquietSundayeveningtoresumemyjournaltoyou。OnMondaywedinedatLordJohnRussell’s,andmetmanyofthepersonswehavemetbeforeandtheDuchessofInverness,thewidowoftheDukeofSussex。OnTuesdaywedinedatDr。Holland’s。Hiswifeanddaughterarecharming,andthenwemet,besides,LadyCharlotteLindsay,theonlysurvivingchildofLordNorth,Mr。andMrs。Milman(theauthorofthe\"FallofJerusalem\"),andMr。Macaulay。YesterdayIwenttoreturnthevisitoftheMilmansandfoundthattheentrancetotheirhouse,hebeingaprebendofWestminsterAbbey,wasactuallyinthecloistersoftheAbbey。Theywerenotathome,butItookmyfootmanandwanderedatleisurethroughthecloisters,treadingateverysteponthetombofsomeoldabbotwithdatesof1160andthereabouts。

  NothingcouldbemoredelightfulthanLondonisnow,ifIhadonlyalittlemorephysicalvigortoenjoyit。Weseeeverybodymorefrequently,andknowthembetterthaninthefullseason,andwehavesomeofthebestspecimensofEnglishsociety,too,herejustnow,astheWhigministrybringsagooddealoftheabilityofthearistocracytoitsaid。Thesubjectsofconversationamongwomenaremoregeneralthanwithus,and[they]aremuchmorecultivatedthanourwomenasabody,notourblues。Theyneversew,orattend,aswedo,todomesticaffairs,andsoliveforsociallifeandunderstanditbetter。

  LONDON,December2,1846

  MydearMrs。Polk:youtoldmewhenIpartedfromyouatWashingtonthatyouwouldliketogetfrommeoccasionallysomeaccountsofmyexperiencesinEnglishsociety。Ithoughtatthattimethatweshouldseeverylittleofituntilthespring,butcontrarytomyexpectationwehavebeenoutalmosteverydaysinceourarrival。WemadeourDEBUTinLondononthefirstdayofNovember(thesuicidalmonthyouknow)inthemidstofanorange—coloredfog,inwhichyoucouldnotseeyourhandbeforeyou。Theprospectforthewinterseemed,Imustsay,rather\"triste,\"butthenextdaythefogclearedoff,peoplecameconstantlytoseeus,andwehadagreeableinvitationsforeveryday,andLondonputonanewaspect。OutfirstdinnerwasatLordPalmerston’s,wherewemetwhatthenewspaperscalladistinguishedcircle。TheMarquisofLansdowne,LordandLadyJohnRussell,MarquisandMarchionessofClanricarde(Canning’sdaughter),EarlandCountessGrey,SirGeorgeandLadyGrey,etc。,etc。IwastakenoutbyLordPalmerston,withLordGreyontheotherside,andfoundthewholethingverylikeoneofourWashingtondinners,andIwasquiteasmuchatmyease,andtheyseemedmadeofthesamematerialsasourcabinetathome。IhavesincedinedatLordMorpeth’s,LordJohnRussell’s,LordMahon’s,Dr。Holland’s,BaronParke’s,ThePrussianMinister’s,andto—daywedinewiththeDuchessofInverness,thewidowoftheDukeofSussex;

  to—morrowwithMr。Milman,aprebendofWestminsterandadistinguishedmanofletters。WehavebeenatagreatmanySOIREES,atLadyPalmerston’s,LadyGrey’s,LordAuckland’s,LadyLewis’s,etc。,etc。

  Andnow,havinggivenyousomeideaWHOMweareseeinghere,youwillwishtoknowhowIlikethem,andhowtheydifferfromourownpeople。AtthesmallerdinnersandSOIREESatthisseasonIcannot,ofcourse,receiveafullimpressionofEnglishsociety,butcertainlythosepersonsnowintownarecharmingpeople。TheirmannersareperfectlysimpleandIentirelyforget,exceptwhentheirhistoricnamesfalluponmyear,thatIamwiththeproudaristocracyofEngland。AllthepersonswhosenamesIhavementionedtoyougiveoneadecidedimpressionnotonlyofabilityandagreeablemanners,butofexcellenceandthedomesticvirtues。

  Thefurnitureandhouses,too,arelesssplendidandostentatious,thanthoseofourlargecities,though[they]havemoreplate,andliveriedservants。Theformsofsocietyandthestandardofdress,too,areverylikeours,exceptthataduchessoracountesshasmorehereditarypointlaceanddiamonds。Thegeneralstyleofdress,perhaps,isnotsotasteful,sosimplyelegantasours。UponthewholeIthinkmorehighlyofourowncountry(Imeanfromasocialpointofviewalone)thanbeforeIcameabroad。ThereislesssuperiorityoverusinmannersandallthesocialartsthanI

  couldhavebelievedpossibleinacountrywherealargeandwealthyclasshavebeensetapartfromtimeimmemorialtocreate,asitwere,asocialstandardofhighrefinement。ThechiefdifferencethatIperceiveisthis:Inourcountrythepositionofeverybodyisundefinedandrestsaltogetheruponpublicopinion。Thisleadssometimestoalittleassumptionandpretensionofmanner,whichthehighestclasshere,whoseclaimsarealwaysallowedbyallaboutthem,arenevertemptedtoputon。Fromthisresultsanextremesimplicityofmanner,likethatofafamilycircleamongus。

  WhatIhavesaid,however,applieslesstotheSouththantothelargecitiesoftheNorth,withwhichIammostfamiliarathome。I

  hopeourmemorywillnotbecompletelyeffacedinWashington,forweclingtoourfriendstherewithstronginterest。PresentmyrespectfulregardstothePresident,andmylovetoMrs。WalkerandMissRucker。TotheMasonsalso,andouroldcolleaguesall,andpraylayyourroyalcommandsuponsomebodytowriteme。IlongtoknowwhatisgoingoninWashington。ThePleasantonspromisedtodoso,andAnniePayne,towhomandtoMrs。Madisongivealsomybestlove。Believemeyourswiththehighestregard。

  E。D。BANCROFT。

  LETTER:2DecemberYesterdaywedinedatthePrussianMinister’s,ChevalierBunsen’s。

  HemetyourfatherinRometwentyyearssince,andhasreceiveduswithgreatenthusiasm。YesterdayatdinnerheactuallyroseinhisseatandmadequiteaspeechwelcominghimtoEnglandashistorian,oldfriend,etc。,andendedbyofferinghishealth,whichyourfatherrepliedtoshortly,inafewwords。ImaginesuchanoutbreakuponroutineatadinnerinEngland!NobodycouldhavedoneitbutoneofGermanblood,butIdaresaytheEveretts,whoknowhim,couldimagineitall。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  LONDON,December19,1846

  MydearSons:……YesterdaywedinedatMacready’sandmetquiteanew,andtous,amostagreeablecircle。TherewasCarlyle,whotalkedalldinner—timeinhisbroadScotch,inthemostinimitableway。Heisfullofwit,andhappenedtogetuponJamesI。,uponwhichtopichewassuperb。ThentherewasBabbage,thegreatmathematician,Fonblanc,theeditoroftheEXAMINER,etc。,etc。ThedaybeforewedinedatMr。FrederickElliott’swithasmallpartyofeight,ofwhichLadyMorganwasone,andalsoabrotherofLordNormanby’s,whomIlikedverymuch。LadyMorgan,whohadnothithertomuchpleasedme,cameoutinthissmallcirclewithallherIrishwitandhumor,andgavemequitenewnotionsofhertalent。

  ShemademelaughtillIcried。OnSaturdaywedinedatSirRoderickMurchison’s,thePresidentoftheGeologicalSociety,verygreatinthescientificway。

  WehavestruckupagreatfriendshipwithMissMurray,theQueen’sMaidofHonor,whopaidmeavisitofthreehoursto—day,inthemidstofwhichcameinColonelEstcourt,whomIwasdelightedtosee,asyoumaysuppose。MissMurrayistomeaveryinterestingperson,thoughagreattalker;aconvenientfaulttoastranger。

  SheisconnectedwithhalfthenoblefamiliesinEngland,isthegrand—daughteroftheDuchessofAthol,whogovernedtheIsleofManasaqueen,andthedescendantofScott’sCountessofDerby。ThoughsprungofsuchToryblood,andamaidofhonor,shethinksfreelyuponallsubjects。Religion,politics,andpersons,shedecidesuponforherself,andhasasmanybenevolentschemesasoldMadamJackson。

  IreturnedthevisitofMr。andMrs。Leslie,thepainter,thisweek,andsawthepictureheisnowpaintingfortheVice—Chancellor。Itisasketchofchildren,aboydrivinghistwolittlesistersashorses。OneofthelittlegirlsisverylikeSusie,hersize,hair,andcomplexion。HowIlongedtoberichenoughtoorderacopy,buthispicturescostafortune。IpaidalsoavisitthisweektotheDuchessofInverness,whomIfoundintheprettiest,cosiestmorningboudoirlookingontothegardensofthePalace。Inshort,Ido,orsee,everyhour,somethingthatifIwereatravelleronly,Icouldmakequiteastoryof。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  LONDON,January1,1847

  MydearSons:……Iwrotemylastsheetonthe19thandyourfatherwentonthatdaytoCambridgetobepresentatthetri—

  centennialcelebrationofTrinityCollege……Hewentalsothedayaftertheanniversary,whichwasonour22ndDecember,toEly,withPeacock,thegreatmathematician,whoisDeanofEly,toseethegreatcathedralthere……WhilehewasatCambridgeIpassedtheeveningofthe22ndatLadyMorgan’s,whohappenedtohaveamostagreeableset……LadyMorgan’sreunionsareentertainingtomebecausetheyarecollectionsoflions,buttheyarenotstrictlyandexclusivelyfashionable。TheyremindmeintheircompositionfromvariouscirclesofMrs。Otis’spartiesinBoston。WehaveinthisrespectanadvantageovertheEnglishthemselves,asinourpositionweseeagreatvarietyofcliques。

  Forinstance,lastevening,the31st,ItookLouisa,athalf—pastseven,tothehouseofMr。Hawes,anunderSecretaryofState,toseeabeautifulchildren’smasque。Itwasanimpersonationofthe\"OldYear\"dressedalittlelikeLEARwithsnowyhairanddraperies。

  OLDYEARplayedhispartinimitably,attimeswithgreatpathos,andthenintroducingwittyhitsatallthedoingsofhisreign,suchasexplodingcotton,thenewplanet,asubjectwhichheputatrestas\"FARBEYONDOURREACH,\"etc。,etc。Hethenintroducedonebyonethechildrenofallagesas\"Days\"ofthecomingyear。TherewasTWELFTHDAY,crownedasQueenwithhercakeinherhands;therewasCHRISTMAS,coveredwithhollyandmistletoe;therewasAPRILFOOL’S

  DAY,dressedasHarlequin;therewas,aboveall,SHROVETUESDAY,withherfrying—panofpancakes,dressedasalittlecook;therewasacharmingboyoffourteenorfifteen,asST。VALENTINE’SDAYwithhispacketofvalentinesaddressedtotheyoungladiespresent;

  therewasthe5THOFNOVEMBER,fullofwitandfun,etc。;thelongestday,anelderbrother,ofWilliam’sheight,withacapofthreeorfourfeethigh;andhislittlesisteroffive,astheshortestday。Thiswasallarrangedtomusicandeachmadelittlespeeches,introducingthemselves。TheOLDYEAR,afterintroducinghissuccessors,andaftermuchpathos,is\"going,going——gone,\"andfallscoveredwithhisdrapery,uponremovingwhich,insteadofthelifelessbodyoftheOLDYEAR,isdiscoveredasweetlittleflower—

  crownedgirloffiveorsix,astheNEWYEAR。Itwascharming,andIwassopleasedthat,insteadoftakingLouisaawayatnineo’clockasIintended,Ilefthertosee\"SirRogerdeCoverly,\"inthedressofhistime。

  LastnightatMr。Putnam’s,ImetWilliamandMaryHowitt,andsomeofthelesserlights。Ihaveputdownmypentoansweranote,justbroughtin,todinenextThursdaywiththeDowagerCountessofCharleville,wherewewerelastweek,intheevening。Sheiseighty—four(tellthistoGrandmamma)andlikesstilltosurroundherselfwithBEAUXandBELLESESPRITS,andashersonanddaughterresidewithher,thisisstilleasy……TheoldladytalksFrenchasfastaspossible,andtroublesmesomewhatbytalkingittome,forgettingthataforeignminister’swifecantalkEnglish……

  Yourfatherlikestobehere。HehascopyinggoingonintheStatePaperOfficeandBritishMuseum,andhisheartisfullofmanuscripts。Itisthefirstthought,Ibelieve,whoeverhesees,whatpapersareintheirfamily。Hemakesgreatinterestwitheventheladiessometimesforthispurpose。Uponthewhole,Ilovemyowncountrybetterthanever,butwhetherIshallnotmiss,uponmyreturn,somethingstowhichIamgraduallygettingaccustomed,I

  haveyettolearn。Thegratificationofmixingconstantlywiththoseforemostintheworldforrank,science,literature,orallwhichadornssocietyisgreat,butthereisacertainyearningtowardthosewhosehabits,education,andmodesofthoughtarethesameasourown,whichInevercangetover。InthefulltideofconversationIoftenstopandthink,\"Imayunconsciouslybejarringtheprejudicesorpreconceivednotionsofthesepeopleuponathousandpoints;forhowdifferentlyhaveIbeentrainedfromthesewomenofhighrank,andmen,too,withwhomIamnowthrown。\"Uponalltopicsweareaccustomedtothink,perhaps,withmorelatitude,religion,politics,morals,everything。IliketheEnglishextremely,evenmorethanIexpected,andyethappyamItothinkthatourownbestportionsofsocietycanbearacomparisonwiththeirs。WhenIseeyouIcanexplaintoyouthedifferences,butI

  thinkweneednotbeashamedofourselves。

  LETTER:ToI。P。D。

  LONDON,January2,1847

  MydearUncle:……Ireferyoutomyletterstomyboys,forallthenewpersonsandplaceswemayhaveseenlately,whileIgiveyouforAunty’samusementaminuteaccountofmyvisitintothecountryatMr。Bates’s,wherethingsaremanagedinascrupulouslyEnglishmanner,sothatitwillgiveherthesameideaofcountrylifehere,asifitwereanobleman’scastle。OurinvitationwastoarriveonThursday,thedaybeforeChristmas,todine,andtoremainuntilthefollowingTuesdaymorning。HisplaceisatEastSHEEN,whichreceivesitsnamefromtheAnglo—SaxonwordforBEAUTY。ItadjoinsRichmondPark,beyondwhichisthecelebratedRichmondHill,Twickenham,Kew,etc。,etc……WearrivedatEastSheenathalf—

  pastfive;butIoughtfirsttomentionthePREPARATIONSforacountryexcursion。Ourowncarriagehas,ofcourse,nodickeyformymaid,orconveniencesforluggage,sowetakeatravellingcarriage。Theimperials(whicharelarge,flatboxes,coveringthewholetopofthecarriage,CAPITALforvelvetdresses,andsmalleronesfittingintoalltheseatsINthecarriage,andBEFOREandBEHIND)arebroughttoyouthedaybefore。IammerelyaskedwhatdressesIwishtaken,andthatisallIknowofthematter,sothoroughlydoesanEnglishmaidunderstandherbusiness。Wewereshownonourarrivalintoacharmingroom,semi—library。

  Inafewminutesaservantcametoshowmetomyapartment,whichwasverysuperb,withacomfortabledressing—roomandfireforMr。

  Bancroft,wherethefaithfulKeatsunpackedhisdressingmaterials,whileIwasinafewmomentsseatedatthetoilettoundergomyhair—dressing,surroundedbyallmyapparatus,andablazingfiretowelcomemewithahissingtea—kettleofhotwaterandeverycomfort。

  HowwelltheEnglishunderstandit,Ilearnmoreandmoreeveryday。

  Mymaidhadalargeroomaboveme,alsowithafire;indeed,a\"lady’s\"maidisaVERYGREATcharacterINDEED,andwouldbemuchmoreunwillingtotakeherteawith,orspeakfamiliarlyto,afootmanorahousemaidthanIshould。MygreatestmistakesinEnglandhavebeencommittedtowardthosehighdignitaries,myownmaidandthebutler,whosegrandeurIentirelymisappreciatedandinvaded,asinmyignoranceIplacedthem,aswedo,onthesamelevelwithotherservants。Shehasherfiremadeforher,andLOAF

  sugarinhertea,whichsheandCatessipinsolitarymajesty。

  However,sheismostconscientiousandworthy,aswellasdignified,andthoroughlyaccomplishedinherbusiness。AsallthesethingsarepicturesofEnglishlife,ImentionthemtoamuseAunty,wholikestoknowhowthesemattersaremanaged。

  AfterIamdressed,Ijointhecircleinthelibrary,whereIamintroducedtoMr。andMadamVandeWeyer,andLouisBuonaparte,thesonofLouis,theex—KingofHolland,andofHortense,Josephine’sdaughter。HewasalongtimeimprisonedinthefortressofHam,andhasnotlongbeenfree。TherewasalsoNapoleon,sonofJeromeBuonaparte,andthePrincessofWurtemberg。Theyweremostagreeable,intelligent,andamiableyoungmen,andIwasgladtomeetthem。LordandLadyLangdale(whohaveaplaceintheneighborhood)wereinvitedtodinewithus。HeisMasteroftheRollsandwaselevatedtothepeeragefromgreatdistinctionatthebar。LadyLangdaleisasensibleandexcellentperson。AtdinnerI

  satbetweenMr。BatesandLordLangdale,whomIlikedverymuch。

  Thenextmorningweassembledattenforbreakfast,whichwasataroundtable,withasortofcirculartray,whichturnsattheleasttouchinthecentre,leavingonlyarimroundthetableforplatesandcups。Thiswascoveredalsowithawhiteclothandonitwereplacedallthebreakfastviands,withbutter,sugar,cream,bread,toast—rackandpreserves。Youneednoservants,butturnitroundandhelpyourself。IbelievetheVandeWeyersintroducedit,fromavisitinWales。Teaandcoffeeareservedfromaside—tablealways,here。LetmetellAuntythatoursimplebreakfastDRESSisunknowninEngland。Youcomedowninthemorningdressedfortheday,untilsixorsevenintheevening,whenyourdressislowneckandshortsleevesfordinner。Atthisseasonthemorningdressisarichsilkorvelvet,highbodyquitecloseinthethroatwithhandsomecollarandcuffs,andALWAYSacap。MadamVandeWeyerworeeverydayadifferentdress,allveryrich,butIadheredtoablackwateredsilkwiththesamesimplecapIworeathome。

  ItookadrivethroughRichmondPark(whereHenrytheEighthwatchedtoseeasignalontheTowerwhenAnneBoleyn’sheadfell,andgallopedofftomarryJaneSeymour)toRichmondTerrace,whichisravishinglybeautifulevenatthisseason……Thenextdaythegentlemanallwenttotown,andMadamVandeWeyerandIpassedthedayTETE—A—TETE,verypleasantly,asherexperienceindiplomaticlifeisveryusefultome……Hermannersareverypleasingandentirelyunaffected。Shehasgreattactandquicknessofperception,greatintelligenceandamiabilityandisaltogetherextremelywell—fittedfortheROLEsheplaysinlife。Herhusbandischarming……Theyhavethreechildren,verylovely。Theeldest,Victor,afineboyofsevenyearsold,Victoria,agirloffour,forwhomtheQueenwassponsor,andAlbert,towhomPrinceAlbertperformedthesameoffice。Thiswas,ofcourse,voluntaryintheroyalparties,asitwasnotafavortobeasked……MadamVandeWeyerisnotspoiled,certainly,bytheprominentpartshewascalledtoplayinthisgreatcentreoftheworldatsoearlyanage,andmakesanexcellentcourtier。Icouldnothelppityingher,however,forlookingforwardtogoingthrough,yearafteryear,thesameroundofceremonies,forms,andsociety。Forus,itisanewstudy,andinvaluableforashorttime;butIcouldnotbearitforlife,astheseEuropeandiplomatists。Besides,weAmericansreallyenjoyakindofsociety,andamuchnearerintercoursethanotherforeigners,intheliterary,scientific,andevensocialcircles。

  OnSaturdayeveningLordWilliamFitzroyanddaughterjoinedourpartywithSirWilliamHookerandLadyHooker……SirWilliamHookerisoneofthemostinterestingpersonsIhaveseeninEngland。HeisagreatnaturalistandhasthechargeofthegreatBotanicalGardensatKew。Hedevotedamorningtousthere,anditwasthemostdelightfuloneIhavepassed。Therearetwenty—eightdifferentconservatoriesfilledwiththevegetablewondersofthewholeworld。LengthoftimeandregalwealthhaveconspiredtomaketheKewgardensbeyondourconceptionsentirely……SirWilliampointedouttousallthatwasveryrareorcurious,whichaddedmuchtomypleasure……HeshowedusadrawingofthelargestFLOWEReverknownonearth,whichSirStamfordRafflesdiscoveredinSumatra。Itwasaparasitewithoutleavesorstem,andtheflowerweighedfifteenpounds。LadyRafflesfurnishedhimthematerialsforthedrawing。Idinedincompanywithhernotlongago,andregretnowthatIdidnotmakehertellmeaboutthewondersofthatregion。Atthesamedinneryoumaymeetsomanypeople,eachhavingtheirpeculiargift,thatonecannotavailoneselfoftheopportunityofextractingfromeachwhatisprecious。IalwayswishIcouldsitbyeverybodyatthesametime,andIcouldoftenemployadozenheads,ifIhadthem,insteadofmypoor,miserableone。

  FromSirWilliamHookerIlearnedasmuchabouttheVEGETABLEworld,asMr。BancroftdidfromtheDeanofElyonARCHITECTURE,whenheexpoundedtohimthecathedralofEly;pointingoutthesuccessivestylesoftheGothic,andthedifferentperiodsinwhichthedifferentpartswerebuilt。Booksaredullteacherscomparedwiththesegiftedmengivingyoualectureuponsubjectsbeforeyoureyes。

  OnSundaywedinedwithoutownparty;onMondaysomediplomaticpeople,theLisboasandoneofMr。Bates’spartners,andonTuesdaywecamehome。ImustnotomitavisitwhileweweretherefromMr。

  Taylor(VanArtevelde),whoisson—in—lawofLordMonteagle,andlivesintheneighborhood。Hehasafinecountenanceandstillfinervoice,andisaltogetheroneofthoseliterarypersonswhodonotdisappointyou,butwhosewholebeingisequaltotheirworks。

  Ihopetoseemoreofhim,astheyspokeof\"CULTIVATING\"us,andMr。TaylorwasquiteaPROTEGEofourkindanddearfriend,Dr。

  Holland,anddedicatedhislastpoemtohim。Thisexpression,\"I

  shallCULTIVATEyou,\"wehearconstantly,anditstrikesmeasoddlyasourWestern\"BEINGRAISED。\"Indeed,IhearimproperAnglicismsconstantly,andtheyhavenearlyasmanyaswehave。Theupperclasses,here,however,doSPEAKEnglishsoroundlyandfully,givingeveryLETTERitsdue,thatitpleasesmyearamazingly。

  OnWednesdayIgoforthefirsttimetoWestminsterAbbey,onEpiphany,toheartheAthanasianCreedchanted。Ihaveasyethadnotimeforsight—seeing,asthedaysaresoshortthatnecessaryvisitstakeallmytime。Noonegoesoutinacarriagetillaftertwo,astheservantsdineatone,andinthemorningearlythefootmanisemployedinthehouse。Acoachmanneverleaveshisboxhere,andafootmanisindispensableonalloccasions。Novisitcanbepaidtillthree;andthisgivesmeverylittletimeintheseshortdays。EverythinghereisinflexibleasthelawsoftheMedesandPersians,andthoughIamcalled\"Mistress\"evenbyoldCateswithhisgreyhairandblackcoat,Icannotmakeoneofthemdoanything,exceptBYthepersonandATthetimewhichEnglishcustomprescribes。Theyarebroughtuptofillcertainsituations,andfillthemperfectly,butcannotorwillnotvary。

  IamfrequentlyaskedbytheladieshereifIhaveformedahouseholdtopleasemeandIamobligedtoconfessthatIhaveaverynicehousehold,butthatIamtheonlyrefractorymemberofit。

  Iamalwaysaskingthewrongpersonforcoals,etc。,etc。Thedivisionoflabor,orratherceremonies,betweenthebutlerandfootman,IhavenowmasteredIbelieveinsomedegree,butthatbetweentheUPPERandUNDERhouse—maidisstillaprofoundmysterytome,thoughtheupperhasexplainedtomeforthetwentiethtimethatshedidonly\"thetopofthework。\"Mycookcomesuptomeeverymorningfororders,andalwaysdropsthedeepestcurtsey,butthenIdoubtifherhandsareeverprofanedbytouchingapoker,andsheNEVERwashesadish。SheiscookandHOUSEKEEPER,andpresidesoverthehousekeeper’sroom;whichhasaBrusselscarpetandcentretable,withonesideentirelyoccupiedbythelinenpresses,ofwhichmymaid(myvice—regent,onlyMUCHgreaterthanme)keepsthekeyanddispenseseverytowel,evenforthekitchen。Shekeepslistsofeverythingandwouldfeelboundtoreplaceanythingmissing。IshallmakeyoulaughandMrs。Goodwinstare,bysomeofmyhousekeepingstories,thenexteveningIpassinyourlittlepleasantparlor(awordunknownhere)。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  LONDON,January10,1847

  MyverydearChildren:……YesterdaywedinedatLadyCharleville’s,theoldladyofeighty—four,atwhosehouseI

  mentionedaneveningvisitinmylast,andImusttellyouallaboutittoentertaindearGrandma。Iwillbeminuteforonce,andgiveyoutheLITTLEdetailsofaLondondinner,andtheyareallpreciselyalike。WearrivedatCavendishSquareaquarterbeforeseven(veryearly)andwereshownintoasemi—libraryonthesamefloorwiththedining—room。Theservantstakeyourcloak,etc。,inthepassage,andIamnevershownintoaroomwithamirroraswithus,andneverintoachamberorbedroom。

  WefoundLadyCharlevilleandherdaughterwithoneyounggentlemanwithwhomIchattedtilldinner,andwho,Ifound,wasSirWilliamBurdette,sonofSirFrancisandbrotherofMissAngelinaCoutts。I

  happenedtohaveonthecorsageofmyblackvelvetawhitemossroseandbuds,whichIthoughtratheryouthfulforME,buttheoldladyhad[them]onhercap。Sheisfullofintelligence,andhasalwaysbeeninthehabitofdrawingagreatdeal……VerysooncameinLordAylmer,[who]wasformerlyGovernorofCanada,andLadyColchester,daughterofLordEllenborough,averyprettywomanofthirty—five,Ishouldthink;SirWilliamandLadyChattertonandMr。

  AlgernonGreville,whosegrandmotherwrotethebeautiful\"PrayerforIndifference,\"anoldfavoriteofmine,andMr。MacGregor,thepoliticaleconomist。LordAylmertookmeoutandIfoundhimaniceoldpeer,anddiscoveredthateversincethedeathofhisuncle,LordWhitworth,whosetitleisextinct,hehadbornethearmsofbothAylmerandWhitworth。Mr。BancrofttookoutLadyColchester,andtheoldladywaswheeledoutpreciselyasGrandmais。

  Attableshehelpedtothefish(cod,garnishedroundwithsmelts)

  andinsistedoncarvingtheturkeyherself,whichshedidextremelywell。Bytheway,IobservetheynevercarvethebreastofaturkeyLONGITUDINALLY,aswedo,butinshortslices,alittlediagonallyfromthecentre。Thismakesmanymoreslices,andquitelargeenoughwheretherearesomanyotherdishes。ThefourENTREEdishesarealwaysplacedonthetablewhenwesitdown,accordingtoouroldfashion,andnotonebyone。Theyhave[them]warmedwithhotwater,sothattheykeephotwhilethesoupandfishareeaten。

  Turkey,evenBOILEDturkey,isbroughtonAFTERtheENTREES,mutton(asaddlealways)orvenison,withapheasantorpartridges。WiththeroastisalwaysputontheSWEETS,astheyarecalled,asthetermdessertseemsrestrictedtothelastcourseoffruits。Duringthedinnertherearealwayslongstripsofdamaskallroundthetablewhichareremovedbeforethedessertisputon,andthereisnobrushingofcrumbs。Youmaynotcareforallthis,butthehousekeepersmay。IhadMr。Grevilletheothersideofme,whoseemedmuchsurprisedthatI,anAmerican,shouldknowthe\"PrayerforIndifference,\"whichhedoubtediftwentypersonsinEnglandreadinthesemoderndays。

  ItisagreatmysterytomeyethowpeoplegettoknoweachotherinLondon。Personstalktoyouwhomyoudonotknow,fornooneisintroduced,asageneralrule。Ihavesometimesquiteanacquaintancewithaperson,andexchangevisits,andyetdonotsucceedforalongtimeinputtingtheirnameandthepersontogether……Itisagreatpuzzletoastranger,buthasitsconveniencesfortheEnglishthemselves。WeareendeavoringtobecomeacquaintedwiththeEnglishmind,notonlythroughsociety,butthroughitsproductsinotherways。Naturalscienceisthedepartmentintowhichtheyseemtohavethrowntheirintellectmosteffectivelyforthelasttenorfifteenyears。WearereadingWhewell’s\"HistoryoftheInductiveSciences,\"whichgivesoneasummaryofwhathasbeenaccomplishedinthatway,notonlyinpastages,butinthepresent。EverymomenthereisprecioustomeandI

  amanxioustomakethebestuseofit,butIhaveimmensedemandsonmytimeineveryway。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

  Tuesdaynight,January19,1847

  To—daywehavebeenpresentattheopeningofParliament,buthowcanIpicturetoyoutheinterestandmagnificenceofthescene。I

  willbeginquiteback,andgiveyouallthepreparationsfora\"CourtDay。\"Tendaysbefore,anotewaswrittentoLordWilloughbyd’Eresby,informinghimofmyintentiontoattend,thataseatmightbereservedforme,andalsosolicitingseveralticketsforAmericanladiesandgentlemen……Icannottakethemwithme,however,astheseatassignedtotheladiesofForeignMinistersisverynearthethrone。ThismorningwhenIawokethefogwasthickerthanI

  everknewit,evenhere。Theairwasonedenseorange—coloredmass。

  WhatapitytheEnglishcannotborrowourbrightblueskiesinwhichtoexhibittheirroyalpageants!

  Mr。Bancroft’scourtdresshadnotbeensenthome,ourservants’

  liverieshadnotmadetheirappearance,andourcarriageonlyarrivedlastnight,andIhadnotpassedjudgmentuponit。Fogsandtradesmen!thesearethetormentsofLondon。Verysooncamethetailorwithembroidereddress,sword,andchapeau,but,alas!Mr。

  Isidore,whowastohavedressedmyhairathalf—pasttenwasnotforthcoming,andtocompletemyperplexity,hehadmyhead—dressinhispossession。Atlast,justasRussellhadresumedherofficeatthetoilet,cameIsidore,alittlebeforetwelve,coiffureandall,whichwassoprettythatIquireforgavehimallhissins。ItwasofgreenleavesandwhiteFLEUR—DE—LIS,withawhiteostrichfeatherdroopingononeside。Iwearmyhairnowplaininfront,andthewreathwasveryflatandclassicalinitsstyle。Mydresswasblackvelvetwithaveryrichbertha。AbouquetonthefrontofFLEUR—DE—

  LIS,likethecoiffure,andaCashmereshawl,completedmyarray。I

  havehadthediamondpinandearringswhichyoufathergaveme,reset,andmadeintoamagnificentbrooch,andsoarrangedthatI

  canalsowearitasanecklaceorbracelet。Onthisoccasionitwasmynecklace。

  MissMurraycametogowithme,asshewishedtobebymysidetopointouteverybody,andherbadgeasMaidofHonorwouldtakehertoanypartofthehouse。Athalf—pasttwelvesheandIsetout,andafterleavingusthecarriagereturnedforyourfatherandMr。

  Brodhead。Butfirstletmetellyousomethingofourequipage。ItisaCHARIOT,notacoach;thatis,ithasbutoneseat,butthewholefrontbeingglassmakesitmuchmoreagreeabletosuchpersonsashavenotlargefamilies。Thecolorismaroon,withasilvermoulding,andhastheAmericanarmsonthepanel。Theliveriesareblueandred;onCourtDaystheyhaveblueplushbreeches,andwhitesilkstockings,withbucklesontheirshoes。Yourfatherleavesallthesematterstome,andtheyhavegivenmenolittleplague。WhenIthoughtIhadarrangedeverythingnecessary,thecoachman,goodoldBrooks,solicitedanaudienceadayortwoago,andbegan,\"Mistress,didyoutellthemtosendthepadsandthefrontsandthehand—pieces?\"\"Heavensandearth!whatareallthesethings?\"saidI。\"Why,ma’am,wealwayshaspadsunderthesaddleonCourtDays,trimmedroundwiththecolorsofthelivery,andwehasfrontsmadeofribbinforthehorses’heads,andwehaswhitehand—piecesforthereins。\"Thisisaspecimenofthelittletroublesofcourtlife,butithasitscompensations。TogobacktoMissMurrayandmyself,whoaredrivingthroughtheparkbetweenfilesofpeople,thousandsandthousandsallawaitingwithpatient,loyalfacesthepassageoftheQueenandoftheStatecarriages。TheQueen’swasdrawnbyeightcream—coloredhorses,andtheservantsflamingwithscarletandgold。Thispartofthepark,nearthepalace,isonlyaccessibletothecarriagesoftheforeignministers,ministers,andofficersofthehousehold。

  WearriveattheParliamentHouse,movethroughthelongcorridorandgiveupourticketsatthedoorofthechamber。Itisaverylong,narrowroom。Attheupperendisthethrone,ontherightistheseatoftheambassadors,ontheleft,oftheirladies。Justinfrontofthethroneisthewool—sackoftheLordChancellor,lookinglikeadrawing—roomdivan,coveredwithcrimsonvelvet。Belowthisarerowsofseatsforthejudges,whoareallintheirwigsandscarletrobes;thebishopsandthepeers,allinrobesofscarletandermine。OppositethethroneatthelowerendistheBaroftheCommons。OntherightoftheQueen’schairisavacantone,onwhichiscarvedthethreeplumes,theinsigniaofthePrinceofWales,whowilloccupyitwhenheissevenornineyearsold;ontheleftPrinceAlbertsits。

  Theseatassignedmewasinthefrontrow,andquiteopen,likeasofa,sothatIcouldtalkwithanygentlemanwhomIknew。MadamVandeWeyerwasononesideofmeandthePrincessCallimachiontheother,andMissMurrayjustbehindme。Sheinsistedonintroducingtomeallhernoblerelatives。Hercousin,theyoungDukeofAthol;theDukeofBuccleuch;hernephewtheMarquisofCamden;herbrothertheBishopofRochester。ThereweremanywhomI

  hadseenbefore,sothatthehourpassedveryagreeably。VerysooncameintheDukeofCambridge,atwhicheverybodyrose,hebeingaroyalduke。Hewasdressedinthescarletkinglyrobe,trimmedwithermine,andwithhiswhitehairandwhiskers(heisanoldman)wasmostpicturesqueandscenic,remindingmeofKingLearandotherstagekings。Herequestedtobeintroducedtome,uponwhichI

  rose,ofcourse。Hesoonsaid,\"Beseated,\"andwewentonwiththeconversation。ItoldhimhowmuchIlikedKewGarden,wherehehasafavoriteplace。

  WhenIfirstenteredIwasgreetedverycordiallybyapersonageinablackgownandwig,whomIdidnotknow。Helaughedandsaid:\"I

  amMr。Senior,whomyousawonlySaturdayevening,butyoudonotknowmeinmywig。\"Itis,indeed,anentiretransformation,foritreachesdownontheshoulders。Heisamasterinchancery。Hestoodbymenearlyallthetimeandpointedoutmanyofthejudges,andsomepersonsnotinMissMurray’sline。

  Butthetrumpetssound!theQueenapproaches!Thetrumpetcontinues,andfirstenteratasidedoorcloseatmyelbowthecollegeofheraldsrichlydressed,slowly,twoandtwo;thenthegreatofficersofthehousehold,thentheLordChancellorbearingthepurse,seal,andspeechoftheQueen,withthemacebearersbeforehim。ThenLordLansdownewiththecrown,theEarlofZetland,withthecapofmaintenance,andtheDukeoffWellington,withtheswordofState。ThenPrinceAlbert,leadingtheQueen,followedbytheDuchessofSutherland,MistressoftheRobes,andtheMarchionessofDouro,daughter—in—lawoftheDukeofWellington,whoisoneoftheladiesinwaiting。TheQueenandPrincesitdown,whileeverybodyelseremainsstanding。TheQueenthensaysinavoicemostclearandsweet:\"Mylords(rollingther),beseated。\"

  Uponwhichthepeerssitdown,exceptthosewhoenterwiththeQueen,whogroupthemselvesaboutthethroneinthemostpicturesquemanner。TheQueenhadacrownofdiamonds,withsplendidnecklaceandstomacherofthesame。TheDuchessofSutherlandclosebyhersidewithherducalcoronetofdiamonds,andalittleback,LadyDouro,also,withhercoronet。OntherightofthethronestoodtheLordChancellor,withscarletrobeandflowingwig,holdingthespeech,surroundedbytheemblemsofhisoffice;alittlefarther,onesteplowerdown,LordLansdowne,holdingthecrownonacrimsonvelvetcushion,andonthelefttheDukeofWellington,brandishingtheswordofStateintheair,withtheEarlofZetlandbyhisside。

  TheQueen’strainofroyalpurple,orratherdeepcrimson,wasbornebymanytrain—bearers。Thewholesceneseemedtomelikeadreamoravision。AfterafewminutestheLordChancellorcameforwardandpresentedthespeechtotheQueen。Shereaditsittingandmostexquisitely。Hervoiceisflute—likeandherwholeemphasisdecidedandintelligent。VerysoonafterthespeechisfinishedsheleavestheHouse,andweallfollow,assoonaswecangetourcarriages。

  LordLansdownetoldmebeforeshecameinthatthespeechwouldbelongerthanusual,\"butnotsolongasyourPresident’sspeeches。\"

  Ithasbeenadayofhighpleasureandmorelikearomancethanarealitytome,andbeingintheverymidstofitasIwas,madeitmorestrikingthanifIhadlookedonfromadistantgallery。

  LETTER:ToW。D。B。andA。B。

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