第42章
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  ThebookwasavolumeofmyJournal;and,asIwasdetainedlongerthanIexpectedatLoanda,thisbook,withaletter,wasdeliveredbySekeletutoatrader,andIhavebeenunabletotraceitIregretthisnow,asitcontainedvaluablenotesonthehabitsofwildanimals,andtherequestwasmadeinthelettertoconveythevolumetomyfamily。

  Theprospectofpassingawayfromthisfairandbeautifulworldthuscamebeforemeinaprettyplain,matter-of-factform,anditdidseemaseriousthingtoleavewifeandchildrentobreakupallconnectionwithearth,andenteronanuntriedstateofexistence;

  andIfindmyselfinmyjournalponderingoverthatfearfulmigrationwhichlandsusineternity,wonderingwhetheranangelwillsoothetheflutteringsoul,sadlyflurriedasitmustbeonenteringthespiritworld,andhopingthatJesusmightspeakbutonewordofpeace,forthatwouldestablishinthebosomaneverlastingcalm。

  ButasIhadalwaysbelievedthat,ifweserveGodatall,itoughttobedoneinamanlyway,Iwrotetomybrother,commendingourlittlegirltohiscare,asIwasdeterminedto“succeedorperish“intheattempttoopenupthispartofAfricaTheBoers,bytakingpossessionofallmygoods,hadsavedmethetroubleofmakingawill;and,consideringthelightheartnowleftinmybosom,andsomefainteffortstoperformthedutyofChristianforgiveness,Ifeltthatitwasbettertobetheplunderedpartythanoneoftheplunderers。

  WhenIcommittedthewagonandremaininggoodstothecareoftheMakololo,theytookallthearticlesexceptoneboxintotheirhuts;

  andtwowarriors,PonuaneandMahale,broughtforwardeachafineheifercalf。

  Afterperforminganumberofwarlikeevolutions,theyaskedthechieftowitnesstheagreementmadebetweenthem,thatwhoeverofthetwoshouldkillaMatebelewarriorfirst,indefenseofthewagon,shouldpossessboththecalves。

  Ihadthreemusketsformypeople,arifleanddouble-barreledsmooth-boreformyself;and,havingseensuchgreatabundanceofgameinmyvisittotheLeeba,IimaginedthatIcouldeasilysupplythewantsofmypartyWishingalsotoavoidthediscouragementwhichwouldnaturallybefeltonmeetinganyobstaclesifmycompanionswereobligedtocarryheavyloads,Itookonlyafewbiscuits,afewpoundsofteaandsugar,andabouttwentyofcoffee,which,astheArabsfind,thoughusedwithouteithermilkorsugar,isamostrefreshingbeverageafterfatigueorexposuretothesun。

  Wecarriedonesmalltincanister,aboutfifteeninchessquare,filledwithspareshirting,trowsers,andshoes,tobeusedwhenwereachedcivilizedlife,andothersinabag,whichwereexpectedtowearoutontheway;anotherofthesamesizeformedicines;andathirdforbooks,mystockbeingaNauticalAlmanac,Thomson’sLogarithmTables,andaBible;

  afourthboxcontainedamagiclantern,whichwefoundofmuchuse。

  Thesextantandartificialhorizon,thermometer,andcompasseswerecarriedapartMyammunitionwasdistributedinportionsthroughthewholeluggage,sothat,ifanaccidentshouldbefallonepart,wecouldstillhaveotherstofallbackuponOurchiefhopesforfoodwereuponthat;butincaseoffailure,Itookabout20lbsofbeads,worth40s。,whichstillremainedofthestockIbroughtfromCapeTown,asmallgipsytent,justsufficienttosleepin,asheep-skinmantleasablanket,andahorse-rugasabedAsIhadalwaysfoundthattheartofsuccessfultravelconsistedintakingasfew“impedimenta“

  aspossible,andnotforgettingtocarrymywitsaboutme,theoutfitwasratherspare,andintendedtobestillmoresowhenweshouldcometoleavethecanoesSomewouldconsideritinjudicioustoadoptthisplan,butIhadasecretconvictionthatifIdidnotsucceed,itwouldnotbeforwantofthe“knick-knacks“advertisedasindispensablefortravelers,butfromwantof“pluck“,orbecausealargearrayofbaggageexcitedthecupidityofthetribesthroughwhosecountrywewishedtopass。

  TheinstrumentsIcarried,thoughfew,werethebestoftheirkind。

  Asextant,bythefamedmakersTroughtonandSims,ofFleetStreet;

  achronometerwatch,withastoptothesecondshand

  anadmirablecontrivanceforenablingapersontotaketheexacttimeofobservations:itwasconstructedbyDent,oftheStrand61,fortheRoyalGeographicalSociety,andselectedfortheservicebythePresident,AdmiralSmythe,towhosejudgmentandkindnessIaminthisandothermattersdeeplyindebted。

  ItwaspronouncedbyMrMacleartoequalmostchronometersinperformance。

  FortheseexcellentinstrumentsIhavemuchpleasureinrecordingmyobligationstomygoodfriendColonelSteele,andatthesametimetoMrMaclearformuchofmyabilitytousethemBesidesthese,IhadathermometerbyDollond;acompassfromtheCapeObservatory,andasmallpocketoneinaddition;agoodsmalltelescopewithastandcapableofbeingscrewedintoatree。

  11THOFNOVEMBER,1853LeftthetownofLinyanti,accompaniedbySekeletuandhisprincipalmen,toembarkontheChobe。

  Thechiefcametotheriverinordertoseethatallwasrightatparting。

  WecrossedfivebranchesoftheChobebeforereachingthemainstream:

  thisramificationmustbethereasonwhyitappearedsosmalltoMrOswellandmyselfin1851Whenallthedepartingbranchesre-enter,itisalarge,deepriverThespotofembarkationwastheidenticalislandwherewemetSebituane,firstknownastheislandofMaunku,oneofhiswives。

  Thechieflentmehisowncanoe,and,asitwasbroaderthanusual,Icouldturnaboutinitwithease。

  TheChobeismuchinfestedbyhippopotami,and,ascertainelderlymalesareexpelledtheherd,theybecomesouredintheirtemper,andsomisanthropicastoattackeverycanoethatpassesnearthem。

  Theherdisneverdangerous,exceptwhenacanoepassesintothemidstofitwhenallareasleep,andsomeofthemmaystrikethecanoeinterror。

  Toavoidthis,itisgenerallyrecommendedtotravelbydaynearthebank,andbynightinthemiddleofthestreamAsarule,theseanimalsfleetheapproachofmanThe“solitaires“,however,frequentcertainlocalitieswellknowntotheinhabitantsonthebanks,and,liketherogueelephants,areextremelydangerousWecame,atthistime,toacanoewhichhadbeensmashedtopiecesbyablowfromthehindfootofoneofthem。

  Iwasinformedbymymenthat,intheeventofasimilarassaultbeingmadeuponours,theproperwaywastodivetothebottomoftheriver,andholdonthereforafewseconds,becausethehippopotamus,afterbreakingacanoe,alwayslooksforthepeopleonthesurface,and,ifheseesnone,hesoonmovesoffIhaveseensomefrightfulgashesmadeonthelegsofthepeoplewhohavehadthemisfortunetobeattacked,andwereunabletodiveThisanimaluseshisteethasanoffensiveweapon,thoughheisquiteaherbivorousfeederOneofthese“bachelors“,livingneartheconfluence,actuallycameoutofhislair,and,puttinghisheaddown,ranaftersomeofourmenwhowerepassingwithveryconsiderablespeed。

  ThepartoftherivercalledZabesa,orZabenza,isspreadoutlikealittlelake,surroundedonallsidesbydensemassesoftallreeds。

  Theriverbelowthatisalwaysonehundredoronehundredandtwentyyardsbroad,deep,andneverdriesupsomuchastobecomefordable。

  Atcertainparts,wherethepartialabsenceofreedsaffordsaviewoftheoppositebanks,theMakololohaveplacedvillagesofobservationagainsttheirenemiestheMatebeleWevisitedalltheseinsuccession,andfoundhere,aseverywhereintheMakololocountry,ordershadprecededus,“thatNakenyakemeansdoctormustnotbeallowedtobecomehungry。”

  ThebanksoftheChobe,likethoseoftheZouga,areofsoftcalcareoustufa,andtheriverhascutoutforitselfadeep,perpendicular-sidedbed。

  Wherethebanksarehigh,asatthespotwherethewagonsstoodin1851,theyarecoveredwithmagnificenttrees,thehabitatoftsetse,andtheretreatofvariousantelopes,wildhogs,zebras,buffaloes,andelephants。

  Amongthetreesmaybeobservedsomespeciesofthe`FicusIndica’,light-greencoloredacacias,thesplendidmotsintsela,andevergreencypress-shapedmotsouriThefruitofthelast-namedwasripe,andthevillagerspresentedmanydishesofitsbeautifulpink-coloredplums;

  theyareusedchieflytoformapleasantaciddrinkThemotsintselaisaveryloftytree,yieldingawoodofwhichgoodcanoesaremade;

  thefruitisnutritiousandgood,but,likemanywildfruitsofthiscountry,thefleshypartsrequiretobeenlargedbycultivation:

  itisnearlyallstone。

  Thecourseoftheriverwefoundtobeextremelytortuous;somuchso,indeed,astocarryustoallpointsofthecompasseverydozenmiles。

  SomeofuswalkedfromabendatthevillageofMoremitoanothernearlydueeastofthatpoint,insixhours,whilethecanoes,goingatmorethandoubleourspeed,tooktwelvetoaccomplishthevoyagebetweenthesametwoplacesAndthoughtheriverisfromthirteentofifteenfeetindepthatitslowestebb,andbroadenoughtoallowasteamertoplyuponit,thesuddennessofthebendingswouldpreventnavigation;but,shouldthecountryeverbecomecivilized,theChobewouldbeaconvenientnaturalcanalWespentforty-twoandahalfhours,paddlingattherateoffivemilesanhour,incomingfromLinyantitotheconfluence;therewefoundadikeofamygdaloidlyingacrosstheLeeambye。

  Thisamygdaloidwithanalamiandmesotypecontainscrystals,whichthewatergraduallydissolves,leavingtherockwithaworm-eatenappearance。

  Itiscurioustoobservethatthewaterflowingovercertainrocks,asinthisinstance,imbibesanappreciable,thoughnecessarilymostminute,portionofthemineralstheycontainThewateroftheChobeuptothispointisofadarkmossyhue,buthereitsuddenlyassumesalightertint;

  andwhereverthislightcolorshowsagreateramountofmineral,therearenotmosquitoesenoughtocauseseriousannoyancetoanyexceptpersonsofveryirritabletemperaments。

  ThelargeislandcalledMpariastandsattheconfluence。

  Thisiscomposedoftrapzeolite,probablymesotypeofayoungeragethanthedeepstratumoftufainwhichtheChobehasformeditsbed,for,atthepointwheretheycometogether,thetufahasbeentransformedintosaccharoidlimestone。

  Theactualpointofconfluenceofthesetworivers,theChobeandtheLeeambye,isilldefined,onaccountofeachdividingintoseveralbranchesastheyinosculate;butwhenthewholebodyofwatercollectsintoonebed,itisagoodlysightforonewhohasspentmanyyearsinthethirstysouthStandingononebank,eventhekeeneyeofthenativescannotdetectwhethertwolargeislands,afewmileseastofthejunction,aremainlandornotDuringaflightinformeryears,whenthepresentchiefSekomiwasachildinhismother’sarms,theBamangwatomenwereseparatedfromtheirwomen,andinveigledontooneoftheseislandsbytheMakalakachiefofMparia,onpretenseofferryingthemacrosstheLeeambyeTheywerelefttoperishafterseeingtheirwivestakenprisonersbythesecruellordsoftheLeeambye,andSekomiowedhislifetothecompassionofoneoftheBayeiye,who,pityingtheyoungchieftain,enabledhismothertomakeherescapebynight。

  AfterspendingonenightattheMakololovillageonMparia,welefttheChobe,and,turninground,begantoascendtheLeeambye;onthe19thofNovemberweagainreachedthetownofSeshekeItstandsonthenorthbankoftheriver,andcontainsalargepopulationofMakalaka,underMoriantsane,brother-in-lawofSebituaneTherearepartiesofvarioustribeshere,assembledundertheirrespectiveheadmen,butafewMakololoruleoverall。

  Theirsway,thoughessentiallydespotic,isconsiderablymodifiedbycertaincustomsandlawsOneoftheMakalakahadspearedanoxbelongingtooneoftheMakololo,and,beingunabletoextractthespear,wastherebydiscoveredtobetheperpetratorofthedeedHisobjecthadbeentogetashareofthemeat,asMoriantsaneisknowntobeliberalwithanyfoodthatcomesintohishandsTheculpritwasboundhandandfoot,andplacedinthesuntoforcehimtopayafine,buthecontinuedtodenyhisguiltHismother,believingintheinnocenceofherson,nowcameforward,withherhoeinhand,and,threateningtocutdownanyonewhoshoulddaretointerfere,untiedthecordswithwhichhehadbeenboundandtookhimhomeThisopendefianceofauthoritywasnotresentedbyMoriantsane,butreferredtoSekeletuatLinyanti。

  Thefollowingcircumstance,whichhappenedherewhenIwaspresentwithSekeletu,showsthatthesimplemodeofpunishment,byforcingacriminaltoworkoutafine,didnotstriketheMakololominduntilnow。

  AstrangerhavingvisitedSeshekeforthepurposeofbarter,wasrobbedbyoneoftheMakalakaofmostofhisgoodsThethief,whencaught,confessedthetheft,andthathehadgiventhearticlestoapersonwhohadremovedtoadistanceTheMakololoweremuchenragedattheideaoftheirgoodnamebeingcompromisedbythistreatmentofastranger。

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