第9章
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  Thepresenceofthesematlametlointhedesertinatimeofdroughtwasratheradisappointment,forIhadbeenaccustomedtosupposethatthenotewasalwaysemittedbythemwhentheywerechin-deepinwater。

  Theirmusicwasalwaysregardedinotherspotsasthemostpleasantsoundthatmettheearaftercrossingportionsofthethirstydesert;

  andIcouldfullyappreciatethesympathyfortheseanimalsshownbyAesop,himselfanAfrican,inhisfableofthe“BoysandtheFrogs“。

  ItisremarkablethatattemptshavenotbeenmadetoanyextenttodomesticatesomeofthenobleandusefulcreaturesofAfricainEngland。

  Theeland,whichisthemostmagnificentofallantelopes,wouldgracetheparksofournobilitymorethandeerThisanimal,fromtheexcellenceofitsflesh,wouldbeappropriatetoourowncountry;

  andasthereisalsoasplendidesculentfrognearlyaslargeasachicken,itwouldnodoubttendtoperpetuatethepresentallianceifwemadeagiftofthattoFrance。

  Thescavengerbeetleisoneofthemostusefulofallinsects,asiteffectuallyanswerstheobjectindicatedbythename。

  Wheretheyabound,asatKuruman,thevillagesaresweetandclean,fornosoonerareanimalexcretionsdroppedthan,attractedbythescent,thescavengersareheardcomingboomingupthewindTheyrollawaythedroppingsofcattleatonce,inroundpiecesoftenaslargeasbilliard-balls;andwhentheyreachaplaceproperbyitssoftnessforthedepositoftheireggsandthesafetyoftheiryoung,theydigthesoiloutfrombeneaththeballtilltheyhavequiteletitdownandcoveredit:theythenlaytheireggswithinthemass。

  Whilethelarvaearegrowing,theydevourtheinsideoftheballbeforecomingabovegroundtobegintheworldforthemselves。

  ThebeetleswiththeirgiganticballslooklikeAtlaswiththeworldonhisback;onlytheygobackward,and,withtheirheadsdown,pushwiththehindlegs,asifaboyshouldrollasnow-ballwithhislegswhilestandingonhisheadAswerecommendtheelandtoJohnBull,andthegiganticfrogtoFrance,wecanconfidentlyrecommendthisbeetletothedirtyItaliantownsandourownSanitaryCommissioners。

  IntryingtobenefitthetribeslivingundertheBoersoftheCashanMountains,ItwiceperformedajourneyofaboutthreehundredmilestotheeastwardofKolobengSechelehadbecomesoobnoxioustotheBoersthat,thoughanxioustoaccompanymeinmyjourney,hedarednottrusthimselfamongthemThisdidnotarisefromthecrimeofcattle-stealing;forthatcrime,socommonamongtheCaffres,wasneverchargedagainsthistribe,nor,indeed,againstanyBechuanatribe。

  Itis,infact,unknowninthecountry,exceptduringactualwarfare。

  HisindependenceandloveoftheEnglishwerehisonlyfaults。

  Inmylastjourneythere,ofabouttwohundredmiles,onpartingattheRiverMarikwehegavemetwoservants,“tobe。”ashesaid,“hisarmstoserveme。”andexpressedregretthathecouldnotcomehimself“Supposewewentnorth。”Isaid,“wouldyoucome?”

  HethentoldmethestoryofSebituanehavingsavedhislife,andexpatiatedonthefar-famedgenerosityofthatreallygreatman。

  ThiswasthefirsttimeIhadthoughtofcrossingtheDeserttoLakeNgami。

  TheconductoftheBoers,who,aswillberemembered,hadsentaletterdesignedtoprocuremyremovaloutofthecountry,andtheirwell-knownsettledpolicywhichIhavealreadydescribed,becamemorefullydevelopedonthisthanonanyformeroccasion。

  WhenIspoketoMrHendrickPotgeiterofthedangerofhinderingtheGospelofChristamongthesepoorsavages,hebecamegreatlyexcited,andcalledoneofhisfollowerstoanswermeHethreatenedtoattackanytribethatmightreceiveanativeteacher,yethepromisedtousehisinfluencetopreventthoseunderhimfromthrowingobstaclesinourwayIcouldperceiveplainlythatnothingmorecouldbedoneinthatdirection,soIcommencedcollectingalltheinformationIcouldaboutthedesert,withtheintentionofcrossingit,ifpossible。

  Sekomi,thechiefoftheBamangwato,wasacquaintedwitharoutewhichhekeptcarefullytohimself,becausetheLakecountryaboundedinivory,andhedrewlargequantitiesthenceperiodicallyatbutsmallcosttohimself。

  Sechele,whovaluedhighlyeverythingEuropean,andwasalwaysfullyalivetohisowninterest,wasnaturallyanxioustogetashareofthatinvitingfieldHewasmostanxioustovisitSebituanetoo,partly,perhaps,fromawishtoshowoffhisnewacquirements,butchiefly,Ibelieve,fromhavingveryexaltedideasofthebenefitshewouldderivefromtheliberalityofthatrenownedchieftain。

  InageandfamilySecheleistheelderandsuperiorofSekomi;

  forwhentheoriginaltribebrokeupintoBamangwato,Bangwaketse,andBakwains,theBakwainsretainedthehereditarychieftainship;

  sotheirchief,Sechele,possessescertainadvantagesoverSekomi,thechiefoftheBamangwatoIfthetwoweretravelingorhuntingtogether,Sechelewouldtake,byright,theheadsofthegameshotbySekomi。

  Thereareseveralvestiges,besides,ofveryancientpartitionsandlordshipsoftribesTheelderbrotherofSechele’sfather,becomingblind,gaveoverthechieftainshiptoSechele’sfather。

  ThedescendantsofthismanpaynotributetoSechele,thoughheistheactualruler,andsuperiortotheheadofthatfamily;

  andSechele,whileineveryotherrespectsupreme,callshimKosi,orChief。

  TheothertribeswillnotbegintoeattheearlypumpkinsofanewcropuntiltheyhearthattheBahurutsehave“bittenit“,andthereisapublicceremonyontheoccasionthesonofthechiefbeingthefirsttotasteofthenewharvest。

  Sechele,bymyadvice,sentmentoSekomi,askingleaveformetopassalonghispath,accompanyingtherequestwiththepresentofanox。

  Sekomi’smother,whopossessesgreatinfluenceoverhim,refusedpermission,becauseshehadnotbeenpropitiatedThisproducedafreshmessage;

  andthemosthonorablemanintheBakwaintribe,nexttoSechele,wassentwithanoxforbothSekomiandhismotherThis,too,wasmetbyrefusal。

  Itwassaid,“TheMatebele,themortalenemiesoftheBechuanas,areinthedirectionofthelake,and,shouldtheykillthewhiteman,weshallincurgreatblamefromallhisnation。”

  TheexactpositionoftheLakeNgamihad,forhalfacenturyatleast,beencorrectlypointedoutbythenatives,whohadvisiteditwhenrainsweremorecopiousintheDesertthaninmorerecenttimes,andmanyattemptshadbeenmadetoreachitbypassingthroughtheDesertinthedirectionindicated;butitwasfoundimpossible,evenforGriquas,who,havingsomeBushmanbloodinthem,maybesupposedmorecapableofenduringthirstthanEuropeans。

  Itwasclear,then,thatouronlychanceofsuccesswasbygoinground,insteadofthrough,theDesertThebesttimefortheattemptwouldhavebeenabouttheendoftherainyseason,inMarchorApril,forthenweshouldhavebeenlikelytomeetwithpoolsofrain-water,whichalwaysdryupduringtherainlesswinterIcommunicatedmyintentiontoanAfricantraveler,ColonelSteele,thenaid-de-camptotheMarquisofTweedaleatMadras,andhemadeitknowntotwoothergentlemen,whosefriendshipwehadgainedduringtheirAfricantravel,namely,MajorVardonandMrOswellAllofthesegentlemenweresoenamoredwithAfricanhuntingandAfricandiscoverythatthetwoformermusthaveenviedthelatterhisgoodfortuneinbeingabletoleaveIndiatoundertakeafreshthepleasuresandpainsofdesertlife。

  IbelieveMrOswellcamefromhishighpositionataveryconsiderablepecuniarysacrifice,andwithnootherendinviewbuttoextendtheboundariesofgeographicalknowledgeBeforeIknewofhiscoming,IhadarrangedthatthepaymentfortheguidesfurnishedbySecheleshouldbetheloanofmywagon,tobringbackwhateverivoryhemightobtainfromthechiefatthelakeWhen,atlast,MrOswellcame,bringingMrMurraywithhim,heundertooktodefraytheentireexpensesoftheguides,andfullyexecutedhisgenerousintention。

  Sechelehimselfwouldhavecomewithus,but,fearingthatthemuch-talked-ofassaultoftheBoersmighttakeplaceduringourabsence,andblamebeattachedtomefortakinghimaway,IdissuadedhimagainstitbysayingthatheknewMrOswell“wouldbeasdeterminedashimselftogetthroughtheDesert。”

  Beforenarratingtheincidentsofthisjourney,ImaygivesomeaccountofthegreatKalahariDesert,inorderthatthereadermayunderstandinsomedegreethenatureofthedifficultieswehadtoencounter。

  ThespacefromtheOrangeRiverinthesouth,lat29Degrees,toLakeNgamiinthenorth,andfromabout24Degreeseastlong。

  tonearthewestcoast,hasbeencalledadesertsimplybecauseitcontainsnorunningwater,andverylittlewaterinwells。

  Itisbynomeansdestituteofvegetationandinhabitants,foritiscoveredwithgrassandagreatvarietyofcreepingplants;

  besideswhichtherearelargepatchesofbushes,andeventrees。

  Itisremarkablyflat,butinteresectedindifferentpartsbythebedsofancientrivers;andprodigiousherdsofcertainantelopes,whichrequirelittleornowater,roamoverthetracklessplains。

  Theinhabitants,BushmenandBakalahari,preyonthegameandonthecountlessrodentiaandsmallspeciesofthefelineracewhichsubsistontheseIngeneral,thesoilislight-coloredsoftsand,nearlypuresilicaThebedsoftheancientriverscontainmuchalluvialsoil;andasthatisbakedhardbytheburningsun,rain-waterstandsinpoolsinsomeofthemforseveralmonthsintheyear。

  Thequantityofgrasswhichgrowsonthisremarkableregionisastonishing,eventothosewhoarefamiliarwithIndiaItusuallyrisesintuftswithbarespacesbetween,ortheintervalsareoccupiedbycreepingplants,which,havingtheirrootsburiedfarbeneaththesoil,feellittletheeffectsofthescorchingsunThenumberofthesewhichhavetuberousrootsisverygreat;andtheirstructureisintendedtosupplynutrimentandmoisture,when,duringthelongdroughts,theycanbeobtainednowhereelseHerewehaveanexampleofaplant,notgenerallytuber-bearing,becomingsoundercircumstanceswherethatappendageisnecessarytoactasareservoirforpreservingitslife;

  andthesamethingoccursinAngolatoaspeciesofgrape-bearingvine,whichissofurnishedforthesamepurposeTheplanttowhichIatpresentreferisoneofthecucurbitaceae,whichbearsasmall,scarlet-colored,eatablecucumberAnotherplant,namedLeroshua,isablessingtotheinhabitantsoftheDesertWeseeasmallplantwithlinearleaves,andastalknotthickerthanacrow’squill;

  ondiggingdownafootoreighteeninchesbeneath,wecometoatuber,oftenaslargeastheheadofayoungchild;whentherindisremoved,wefindittobeamassofcellulartissue,filledwithfluidmuchlikethatinayoungturnipOwingtothedepthbeneaththesoilatwhichitisfound,itisgenerallydeliciouslycoolandrefreshing。

  Anotherkind,namedMokuri,isseeninotherpartsofthecountry,wherelong-continuedheatparchesthesoilThisplantisanherbaceouscreeper,anddepositsundergroundanumberoftubers,someaslargeasaman’shead,atspotsinacircleayardormore,horizontally,fromthestemThenativesstrikethegroundonthecircumferenceofthecirclewithstones,till,byhearingadifferenceofsound,theyknowthewater-bearingtubertobebeneath。

  Theythendigdownafootorso,andfindit。

  ButthemostsurprisingplantoftheDesertisthe“KengweorKeme“

  `Cucumiscaffer’,thewatermelonInyearswhenmorethantheusualquantityofrainfalls,vasttractsofthecountryareliterallycoveredwiththesemelons;thiswasthecaseannuallywhenthefallofrainwasgreaterthanitisnow,andtheBakwainssenttradingpartieseveryyeartothelakeIthappenscommonlyonceeverytenorelevenyears,andforthelastthreetimesitsoccurrencehascoincidedwithanextraordinarilywetseasonThenanimalsofeverysortandname,includingman,rejoiceintherichsupplyTheelephant,truelordoftheforest,revelsinthisfruit,andsodothedifferentspeciesofrhinoceros,althoughnaturallysodiverseintheirchoiceofpastureThevariouskindsofantelopesfeedonthemwithequalavidity,andlions,hyaenas,jackals,andmice,allseemtoknowandappreciatethecommonblessingThesemelonsarenot,however,allofthemeatable;somearesweet,andotherssobitterthatthewholearenamedbytheBoersthe“bitterwatermelon“。

  Thenativesselectthembystrikingonemelonafteranotherwithahatchet,andapplyingthetonguetothegashesTheythusreadilydistinguishbetweenthebitterandsweetThebitteraredeleterious,butthesweetarequitewholesomeThispeculiarityofonespeciesofplantbearingbothsweetandbitterfruitsoccursalsoinared,eatablecucumber,oftenmetwithinthecountryItisaboutfourincheslong,andaboutaninchandahalfindiameterItisofabrightscarletcolorwhenripeManyarebitter,othersquitesweetEvenmelonsinagardenmaybemadebitterbyafewbitterkengweinthevicinity。

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