Butofthisvictoryitmustbesaiditwasowingtothehaughty，rash，andinsolentordersgivenbytheKingofFrancetohisadmiral，viz。，tofighttheconfederatefleetwhereverhefoundthem，withoutleavingroomforhimtouseduecautionifhefoundthemtoostrong，whichprideofFrancewasdoubtlessafateuponthem，andgaveacheapvictorytotheconfederates，theFrenchcomingdownrashly，andwiththemostimpoliticbravery，withaboutfive-and-fortysailtoattackbetweenseventyandeightysail，bywhichmeanstheymettheirruin。Whereas，hadtheirownfleetbeenjoined，itmighthavecostmorebloodtohavemasteredthemifithadbeendoneatall。
Thesituationofthishouseislow，andontheedgeofthefencountry，butthebuildingisveryfine，theavenuesnoble，andthegardensperfectlyfinished。Theapartmentsalsoarerich，andI
seenothingwantingbutafamilyandheirstosustainthegloryandinheritanceoftheillustriousancestorwhoraisedit-SEDCARET
PEDIBUS；thesearewanting。
BeingcometoNewmarketinthemonthofOctober，Ihadtheopportunitytoseethehorseracesandagreatconcourseofthenobilityandgentry，aswellfromLondonasfromallpartsofEngland，buttheywereallsointent，soeager，sobusyuponthesharpingpartofthesport-theirwagersandbets-thattometheyseemedjustassomanyhorse-coursersinSmithfield，descendingthegreatestofthemfromtheirhighdignityandqualitytopickingoneanother\'spockets，andbitingoneanotherasmuchaspossible，andthatwithsucheagernessasthatitmightbesaidtheyactedwithoutrespecttofaith，honour，orgoodmanners。
TherewasMr。Framptontheoldest，and，assomesay，thecunningestjockeyinEngland；onedayhelostonethousandguineas，thenexthewontwothousand；andsoalternatelyhemadeaslightofthrowingawayfivehundredoronethousandpoundsatatimeasothermendooftheirpocket-money，andasperfectlycalm，cheerful，andunconcernedwhenhehadlostonethousandpoundsaswhenhehadwonit。OntheothersidetherewasSirRFagg，ofSussex，ofwhomfamesayshehasthemostinhimandtheleasttoshowforitrelatingtojockeyshipofanymanthere，yetheoftencarriedtheprize。Hishorses，theysaid，wereallcheats，howhonestsoevertheirmasterwas，forhescarceeverproducedahorsebuthelookedlikewhathewasnot，andwaswhatnobodycouldexpecthimtobe。Ifhewasaslightasthewind，andcouldflylikeameteor，hewassuretolookasclumsy，andasdirty，andasmuchlikeacart-horseasallthecunningofhismasterandthegroomscouldmakehim，andjustinthismannerhebeatsomeofthegreatestgamestersinthefield。
IwassosickofthejockeyingpartthatIleftthecrowdaboutthepostsandpleasedmyselfwithobservingthehorses:howthecreaturesyieldedtoalltheartsandmanagementsoftheirmasters；
howtheytooktheirairingsinsport，andplayedwiththedailyheatswhichtheyranoverthecoursebeforethegrandday。Buthow，asknowingthedifferenceequallywiththeirriders，wouldtheyexerttheirutmoststrengthatthetimeoftheraceitself!
Andthattosuchanextremitythatoneortwoofthemdiedinthestablewhentheycametoberubbedafterthefirstheat。
HereIfanciedmyselfintheCircusMaximusatRomeseeingtheancientgamesandtheracingsofthechariotsandhorsemen，andinthiswarmthofmyimaginationIpleasedanddivertedmyselfmoreandinamorenoblemannerthanIcouldpossiblydointhecrowdsofgentlemenattheweighingandstarting-postsandattheircomingin，orattheirmeetingsatthecoffee-housesandgaming-tablesaftertheraceswereover，wheretherewaslittleornothingtobeseenbutwhatwasthesubjectofjustreproachtothemandreprooffromeverywisemanthatlookeduponthem。
N。B-Praytakeitwithyou，asyougo，youseenoladiesatNewmarket，exceptafewoftheneighbouringgentlemen\'sfamilies，whocomeintheircoachesonanyparticulardaytoseearace，andsogohomeagaindirectly。
AsIwaspleasingmyselfwithwhatwastobeseenhere，Iwentintheintervalsofthesporttoseethefineseatsofthegentlemenintheneighbouringcounty，forthispartofSuffolk，beinganopenchampaigncountryandahealthyair，isformedforpleasureandallkindsofcountrydiversion，Nature，asitwere，invitingthegentlementovisitherwhereshewasfullypreparedtoreceivethem，inconformitytowhichkindsummonstheycame，forthecountryis，asitwere，coveredwithfinepalacesofthenobilityandpleasantseatsofthegentlemen。
TheEarlofOrford\'shouseIhavementionedalready；thenextisEustonHall，theseatoftheDukeofGrafton。ItliesintheopencountrytowardsthesideofNorfolk，notfarfromThetford，aplacecapableofallthatispleasantanddelightfulinNature，andimprovedbyarttoeveryextremethatNatureisabletoproduce。
FromthenceIwenttoRushbrook，formerlytheseatofthenoblefamilyofJermyns，latelyLordDover，andnowofthehouseofDavers。HereNature，forthetimeIwasthere，droopedandveiledallthebeautiesofwhichsheonceboasted，thefamilybeingintearsandthehouseshutup，SirRobertDavers，theheadthereof，andknightoftheshireforthecountyofSuffolk，andwhohadmarriedtheeldestdaughterofthelateLordDover，beingjustdead，andthecorpselyingthereinitsfuneralformofceremony，notyetburied。Yetalllookedlovelyintheirsorrow，andanumerousissuepromisingandgrownupintimatedthatthefamilyofDaverswouldstillflourish，andthatthebeautiesofRushbrook，themansionofthefamily，werenotformedwithsomuchartinvainortodiewiththepresentpossessor。
AfterthiswesawBrently，theseatoftheEarlofDysert，andtheancientpalaceofmyLordCornwallis，withseveralothersofexquisitesituation，andadornedwiththebeautiesbothofartandNature，sothatIthinkanytravellerfromabroad，whowoulddesiretoseehowtheEnglishgentrylive，andwhatpleasurestheyenjoy，shouldcomeintoSuffolkandCambridgeshire，andtakebutalightcircuitamongthecountryseatsofthegentlemenonthissideonly，andtheywouldbesoonconvincedthatnotFrance，no，notItalyitself，canoutdotheminproportiontotheclimatetheylivedin。
IhadstillthecountyofCambridgetovisittocompletethistouroftheeasternpartofEngland，andofthatIcomenowtospeak。
WeenterCambridgeshireoutofSuffolk，withalltheadvantageintheworld；thecountybeginninguponthosepleasantandagreeableplainscalledNewmarketHeath，wherepassingtheDevil\'sDitch，whichhasnothingworthnoticebutitsname，andthatbutfabuloustoo，fromthehillscalledGogmagog，weseearichandpleasantvalewestward，coveredwithcorn-fields，gentlemen\'sseats，villages，andatadistance，tocrownalltherest，thatancientandtrulyfamoustownanduniversityofCambridge，capitalofthecounty，andreceivingitsnamefrom，ifnot，assomesay，givingnametoit；forifitbetruethatthetowntakesitsnameofCambridgefromitsbridgeovertheriverCam，thencertainlytheshireorcounty，uponthedivisionofEnglandintocounties，haditsnamefromthetown，andCambridgeshiresignifiesnomoreorlessthanthecountyofwhichCambridgeisthecapitaltown。
Asmybusinessisnottolayoutthegeographicalsituationofplaces，Isaynothingofthebuttingsandboundingsofthiscounty。
Itliesontheedgeofthegreatlevel，calledbythepeopleheretheFenCountry；andgreatpart，ifnotall，theIsleofElyliesinthiscountyandNorfolk。TherestofCambridgeshireisalmostwhollyacorncountry，andofthatcornfivepartsinsixofalltheysowisbarley，whichisgenerallysoldtoWareandRoyston，andothergreatmaltingtownsinHertfordshire，andisthefundfromwhencethatvastquantityofmalt，calledHertfordshiremalt，ismade，whichisesteemedthebestinEngland。AsEssex，Suffolk，andNorfolkaretakenupinmanufactures，andfamedforindustry，thiscountyhasnomanufactureatall；norarethepoor，exceptthehusbandmen，famedforanythingsomuchasidlenessandsloth，totheirscandalbeitspoken。WhatthereasonofitisIknownot。
ItisscarcepossibletotalkofanythinginCambridgeshirebutCambridgeitself；whetheritbethatthecountyhassolittleworthspeakingofinit，or，thatthetownhassomuch，thatIleavetoothers；however，asIammakingmodernobservations，notwritinghistory，Ishalllookintothecounty，aswellasintothecolleges，forwhatIhavetosay。
AsIsaid，IfirsthadaviewofCambridgefromGogmagoghills；I
amtoaddthatthereappearsonthemountainthatgoesbythisname，anancientcamporfortification，thatliesonthetopofthehill，withadouble，orrathertreble，rampartandditch，whichmostofourwriterssaywasneitherRomannorSaxon，butBritish。
IamtoaddthatKingJamesII。causedaspaciousstabletobebuiltintheareaofthiscampforhisrunninghomes，andmadeoldMr。Frampton，whomImentionedabove，masterorinspectorofthem。
Thestablesremainstillthere，thoughtheyarenotoftenmadeuseof。AswedescendedwestwardwesawtheFencountryonourright，almostallcoveredwithwaterlikeasea，theMichaelmasrainshavingbeenverygreatthatyear，theyhadsentdowngreatfloodsofwaterfromtheuplandcountries，andthosefensbeing，asmaybeveryproperlysaid，thesinkofnolessthanthirteencounties-
thatistosay，thatallthewater，ormostpartofthewater，ofthirteencountiesfallsintothem；theyareoftenthusoverflowed。
Theriverswhichthusemptythemselvesintothesefens，andwhichthuscarryoffthewater，aretheCamorGrant，theGreatOuseandLittleOuse，theNene，theWelland，andtheriverwhichrunsfromBurytoMildenHall。Thecountieswhichtheseriversdrain，asabove，areasfollows:-
Lincoln，Warwick，Norfolk，*Cambridge，Oxford，Suffolk，*Huntingdon，Leicester，Essex，*Bedford，*NorthamptonBuckingham，*Rutland。
Thosemarkedwith*emptyalltheirwatersthisway，therestbutinpart。
Inaword，allthewaterofthemiddlepartofEnglandwhichdoesnotrunintotheThamesortheTrent，comesdownintothesefens。
Inthesefensareabundanceofthoseadmirablepiecesofartcalleddecoysthatistosay，placessoadaptedfortheharbourandshelterofwildfowl，andthenfurnishedwithabreedofthosetheycalldecoyducks，whoaretaughttoallureandenticetheirkindtotheplacestheybelongto，thatitisincrediblewhatquantitiesofwildfowlofallsorts，duck，mallard，teal，widgeon，&c。，theytakeinthosedecoyseveryweekduringtheseason；itmay，indeed，beguessedatalittlebythis，thatthereisadecoynotfarfromElywhichpaystothelandlord，SirThomasHare，500poundsayearrent，besidesthechargeofmaintainingagreatnumberofservantsforthemanagement；andfromwhichdecoyalone，theyassuredmeatSt。IvesatownontheOuse，wherethefowltheytookwasalwaysbroughttobesenttoLondonthattheygenerallysentupthreethousandcoupleaweek。
TherearemoreoftheseaboutPeterborough，whosendthefowluptwiceaweekinwaggon-loadsatatime，whosewaggonsbeforethelateActofParliamenttoregulatecarriersIhaveseendrawnbytenandtwelvehorsesa-piece，theywereladensoheavy。
Asthesefensappearcoveredwithwater，soIobserved，too，thattheygenerallyatthislatterpartoftheyearappearalsocoveredwithfogs，sothatwhenthedownsandhighergroundsoftheadjacentcountryweregildedwiththebeamsofthesun，theIsleofElylookedasifwrappedupinblankets，andnothingtobeseenbutnowandthenthelanternorcupolaofElyMinster。
Onecouldhardlyseethisfromthehillsandnotpitythemanythousandsoffamiliesthatwereboundtoorconfinedinthosefogs，andhadnootherbreathtodrawthanwhatmustbemixedwiththosevapours，andthatsteamwhichsouniversallyoverspreadsthecountry。Butnotwithstandingthis，thepeople，especiallythosethatareusedtoit，liveunconcerned，andashealthyasotherfolks，exceptnowandthenanague，whichtheymakelightof，andtherearegreatnumbersofveryancientpeopleamongthem。
InowdrawneartoCambridge，towhichIfancyIlookasifIwasafraidtocome，havingmadesomanycircumlocutionsbeforehand；butImustyetmakeanotherdigressionbeforeIenterthetownforinmyway，andasIcameinfromNewmarket，aboutthebeginningofSeptember，Icannotomit，thatIcamenecessarilythroughStourbridgeFair，whichwastheninitsheight。
Ifitisadiversionworthyabooktotreatoftrifles，suchasthegaietyofBuryFair，itcannotbeveryunpleasant，especiallytothetradingpartoftheworld，tosaysomethingofthisfair，whichisnotonlythegreatestinthewholenation，butintheworld；
nor，ifImaybelievethosewhohaveseenthemall，isthefairatLeipziginSaxony，themartatFrankfort-on-the-Main，orthefairsatNuremberg，orAugsburg，anywaytocomparetothisfairatStourbridge。
Itiskeptinalargecorn-field，nearCasterton，extendingfromthesideoftheriverCam，towardstheroad，forabouthalfamilesquare。
Ifthehusbandmenwhorenttheland，donotgettheircornoffbeforeacertaindayinAugust，thefair-keepersmaytrampleitunderfootandspoilittobuildtheirbooths，ortents，forallthefairiskeptintentsandbooths。Ontheotherhand，tobalancethatseverity，ifthefair-keepershavenotdonetheirbusinessofthefair，andremovedandclearedthefieldbyanothercertaindayinSeptember，theploughmenmaycomeinagain，withploughandcart，andoverthrowall，andtrampleintothedirt；andasforthefilth，dung，straw，etc。necessarilyleftbythefair-
keepers，thequantityofwhichisverygreat，itisthefarmers\'
fees，andmakesthemfullamendsforthetrampling，riding，andcartingupon，andhardeningtheground。
Itisimpossibletodescribeallthepartsandcircumstancesofthisfairexactly；theshopsareplacedinrowslikestreets，whereofoneiscalledCheapside；andhere，asinseveralotherstreets，areallsortsoftrades，whosellbyretail，andwhocomeprincipallyfromLondonwiththeirgoods；scarceanytradesareomitted-goldsmiths，toyshops，brasiers，turners，milliners，haberdashers，hatters，mercers，drapers，pewterers，china-
warehouses，andinawordalltradesthatcanbenamedinLondon；
withcoffee-houses，taverns，brandy-shops，andeating-houses，innumerable，andallintents，andbooths，asabove。
Thisgreatstreetreachesfromtheroad，whichasIsaidgoesfromCambridgetoNewmarket，turningshortoutofittotherighttowardstheriver，andholdsinalinenearhalfamilequitedowntotheriver-side:inanotherstreetparallelwiththeroadarelikerowsofbooths，butlarger，andmoreintermingledwithwholesaledealers；andoneside，passingoutofthislaststreettothelefthand，isaformalgreatsquare，formedbythelargestbooths，builtinthatform，andwhichtheycalltheDuddery；whencethenameisderived，andwhatitssignificationis，Icouldneveryetlearn，thoughImadeallpossiblesearchintoit。Theareaofthissquareisabout80to100yards，wherethedealershaveroombeforeeveryboothtotakedown，andopentheirpacks，andtobringinwaggonstoloadandunload。
Thisplaceisseparated，andpeculiartothewholesaledealersinthewoollenmanufacture。Heretheboothsortentsareofavastextent，havedifferentapartments，andthequantitiesofgoodstheybringaresogreat，thattheinsidesofthemlooklikeanotherBlackwellHall，beingasvastwarehousespiledupwithgoodstothetop。InthisDuddery，asIhavebeeninformed，therehavebeensoldonehundredthousandpoundsworthofwoollenmanufacturesinlessthanaweek\'stime，besidestheprodigioustradecarriedonhere，bywholesalemen，fromLondon，andallpartsofEngland，whotransacttheirbusinesswhollyintheirpocket-books，andmeetingtheirchapmenfromallparts，makeuptheiraccounts，receivemoneychieflyinbills，andtakeorders:Thesetheysayexceedbyfarthesalesofgoodsactuallybroughttothefair，anddeliveredinkind；
itbeingfrequentfortheLondonwholesalementocarrybackordersfromtheirdealersfortenthousandpounds\'worthofgoodsaman，andsomemuchmore。Thisespeciallyrespectsthosepeople，whodealinheavygoods，aswholesalegrocers，salters，brasiers，iron-
merchants，wine-merchants，andthelike；butdoesnotexcludethedealersinwoollenmanufactures，andespeciallyinmercerygoodsofallsorts，thedealersinwhichgenerallymanagetheirbusinessinthismanner。
HereareclothiersfromHalifax，Leeds，WakefieldandHuddersfieldinYorkshire，andfromRochdale，Bury，etc。，inLancashire，withvastquantitiesofYorkshirecloths，kerseys，pennistons，cottons，etc。，withallsortsofManchesterware，fustiains，andthingsmadeofcottonwool；ofwhichthequantityissogreat，thattheytoldmetherewerenearathousandhorse-packsofsuchgoodsfromthatsideofthecountry，andthesetookupasideandhalfoftheDudderyatleast；alsoapartofastreetofboothsweretakenupwithupholsterer\'sware，suchastickings，sackings，kidderminsterstuffs，blankets，rugs，quilts，etc。
IntheDudderyIsawonewarehouse，orboothwithsixapartmentsinit，allbelongingtoadealerinNorwichstuffsonly，andwho，theysaid，hadthereabovetwentythousandpoundsvalueinthosegoods，andnoother。
Westerngoodshadtheirshareherealso，andseveralboothswerefilledasfullwithserges，duroys，druggets，shalloons，cantaloons，Devonshirekerseys，etc。，fromExeter，Taunton，Bristol，andotherpartswest，andsomefromLondonalso。
Butallthisisstilloutdoneatleastinshow，bytwoarticles，whicharethepeculiarsofthisfair，anddonotbegintilltheotherpartofthefair，thatistosayforthewoollenmanufacturebeginstodrawtoaclose。Thesearethewoolandthehops；asforthehops，thereisscarceanypricefixedforhopsinEngland，tilltheyknowhowtheysellatStourbridgefair；thequantitythatappearsinthefairisindeedprodigious，andthey，asitwere，possessalargepartofthefieldonwhichthefairiskepttothemselves；theyarebroughtdirectlyfromChelmsfordinEssex，fromCanterburyandMaidstoneinKent，andfromFarnhaminSurrey，besideswhatarebroughtfromLondon，thegrowthofthoseandotherplaces。
Enquiringwhythisfairshouldbethus，ofallotherplacesinEngland，thecentreofthattrade；andsogreataquantityofsobulkyacommoditybecarriedthithersofar；Iwasansweredbyonethoroughlyacquaintedwiththatmatterthus:thehops，saidhe，forthispartofEngland，growprincipallyinthetwocountiesofSurreyandKent，withanexceptiononlytothetownofChelmsfordinEssex，andthereareveryfewplantedanywhereelse。
ThereareindeedinthewestofEnglandsomequantitiesgrowing:asatWilton，nearSalisbury；atHerefordandBroomsgrove，nearWales，andthelike；butthequantityisinconsiderable，andtheplacesremote，sothatnoneofthemcometoLondon。
AstothenorthofEngland，theyformerlyusedbutfewhopsthere，theirdrinkbeingchieflypalesmoothale，whichrequirednohops，andconsequentlytheyplantednohopsinallthatpartofEngland，northoftheTrent；nordidIeverseeoneacreofhop-groundplantedbeyondTrentinmyobservation；butasforsomeyearspast，theynotonlybrewgreatquantitiesofbeerinthenorth，butalsousehopsinthebrewingtheiralemuchmorethantheydidbefore；
sotheyallcomesouthofTrenttobuytheirhops；andherebeingquantitiesbrought，itisgreatpartoftheirbackcarriageintoYorkshire，andNorthamptonshire，Derbyshire，Lancashire，andallthesecounties；nay，oflate，sincetheUnion，eventoScotlanditself；forImustnotomitherealsotomention，thattheriverGrant，orCam，whichrunsclosebythenorth-westsideofthefairinitswayfromCambridgetoEly，isnavigable，andthatbythismeans，allheavygoodsarebroughteventothefair-field，bywatercarriagefromLondonandotherparts；firsttotheportofLynn，andtheninbargesuptheOuse，fromtheOuseintotheCam，andso，asIsay，totheveryedgeofthefair。
Inlikemannergreatquantitiesofheavygoods，andthehopsamongtherest，aresentfromthefairtoLynnbywater，andshippedtherefortheHumber，toHull，York，etc。，andforNewcastle-upon-
Tyne，andbyNewcastle，eventoScotlanditself。Nowasthereisstillnoplantingofhopsinthenorth，thoughagreatconsumption，andtheconsumptionincreasingdaily，this，saysmyfriend，isonereasonwhyatStourbridgefairthereissogreatademandforthehops。Headded，thatbesidesthis，therewereveryfewhops，ifanyworthnaming，growinginallthecountiesevenonthissideTrent，whichwereabovefortymilesfromLondon；thosecountiesdependingonStourbridgefairfortheirsupply，sothecountiesofSuffolk，Norfolk，Cambridge，Huntingdon，Northampton，Lincoln，Leicester，Rutland，andeventoStafford，Warwick，andWorcestershire，boughtmostifnotalloftheirhopsatStourbridgefair。
Thesearethereasonswhysogreataquantityofhopsareseenatthisfair，asthatitisincredible，considering，too，howremotefromthisfairthegrowthofthemisasabove。
ThisislikewiseatestimonyoftheprodigiousresortofthetradingpeopleofallpartsofEnglandtothisfair；thequantityofhopsthathavebeensoldatoneofthesefairsisdiverselyreported，andsomeaffirmittobesogreat，thatIdarenotcopyafterthem；butwithoutdoubtitisasurprisingaccount，especiallyinacheapyear。
Thenextarticlebroughtthitheriswool，andthisofseveralsorts，butprincipallyfleecewool，outofLincolnshire，wherethelongeststapleisfound；thesheepofthosecountriesbeingofthelargestbreed。
ThebuyersofthiswoolarechieflyindeedthemanufacturersofNorfolkandSuffolkandEssex，anditisaprodigiousquantitytheybuy。
HereIsawwhatIhavenotobservedinanyothercountyofEngland，namely，apocketofwool。Thisseemstobefirstcalledsoinmockery，thispocketbeingsobig，thatitloadsawholewaggon，andreachesbeyondthemostextremepartsofithangingoverbothbeforeandbehind，andtheseordinarilyweighatonortwenty-fivehundredweightofwool，allinonebag。
Thequantityofwoolonly，whichhasbeensoldatthisplaceatonefair，hasbeensaidtoamounttofiftyorsixtythousandpoundsinvalue，somesayagreatdealmore。
Bythesearticlesastrangermaymakesomeguessattheimmensetradecarriedonatthisplace；whatprodigiousquantitiesofgoodsareboughtandsoldhere，andwhataconfluenceofpeopleareseenherefromallpartsofEngland。
ImightgoonheretospeakofseveralothersortsofEnglishmanufactureswhicharebroughthithertobesold；asallsortsofwrought-ironandbrass-warefromBirmingham；edgedtools，knives，etc。，fromSheffield；glasswaresandstockingsfromNottinghamandLeicester；andaninfinitethrongofotherthingsofsmallervalueeverymorning。
Toattendthisfair，andtheprodigiousconfluxofpeoplewhichcometoit，therearesometimesnolessthanfiftyhackneycoacheswhichcomefromLondon，andplynightandmorningtocarrythepeopletoandfromCambridge；fortherethegrossofthepeoplelodge；nay，whichisstillmorestrange，therearewherriesbroughtfromLondononwaggonstoplyuponthelittleriverCam，andtorowpeopleupanddownfromthetown，andfromthefairasoccasionpresents。
Itisnottobewonderedat，ifthetownofCambridgecannotreceive，orentertainthenumbersofpeoplethatcometothisfair；
notCambridgeonly，butallthetownsroundarefull；nay，theverybarnsandstablesareturnedintoinns，andmadeasfitastheycantolodgethemeanersortofpeople:asforthepeopleinthefair，theyalluniversallyeat，drink，andsleepintheirboothsandtents；andthesaidboothsaresointermingledwithtaverns，coffee-houses，drinking-houses，eating-houses，cook-shops，etc。，andallintentstoo；andsomanybutchersandhigglersfromalltheneighbouringcountiescomeintothefaireverymorningwithbeef，mutton，fowls，butter，bread，cheese，eggs，andsuchthings，andgowiththemfromtenttotent，fromdoortodoor，thatthereisnowantofanyprovisionsofanykind，eitherdressedorundressed。
Inaword，thefairislikeawell-fortifiedcity，andthereistheleastdisorderandconfusionIbelieve，thatcanbeseenanywherewithsogreataconcourseofpeople。
Towardsthelatterendofthefair，andwhenthegreathurryofwholesalebusinessbeginstobeover，thegentrycomeinfromallpartsofthecountyround；andthoughtheycomefortheirdiversion，yetitisnotalittlemoneytheylayout，whichgenerallyfallstotheshareoftheretailers，suchastoy-shops，goldsmiths，braziers，ironmongers，turners，milliners，mercers，etc。，andsomeloosecoinstheyreserveforthepuppetshows，drolls，rope-dancers，andsuchlike，ofwhichthereisnowant，thoughnotconsiderableliketherest。Thelastdayofthefairisthehorse-fair，wherethewholeisclosedwithbothhorseandfootraces，todivertthemeanersortofpeopleonly，fornothingconsiderableisofferedofthatkind。Thusendsthewholefair，andinlessthanaweekmore，thereisscarceanysignleftthattherehasbeensuchathingthere，exceptbytheheapsofdungandstrawandotherrubbishwhichisleftbehind，trodintotheearth，andwhichisasgoodasasummer\'sfallowfordungingtheland；andasIhavesaidabove，paysthehusbandmanwellfortheuseofit。
Ishouldhavementionedthathereisacourtofjusticealwaysopen，andheldeverydayinashedbuiltonpurposeinthefair；
thisisforkeepingthepeace，anddecidingcontroversiesinmattersderivingfromthebusinessofthefair。ThemagistratesofthetownofCambridgearejudgesinthiscourt，asbeingintheirjurisdiction，ortheyholdingitbyspecialprivilege:heretheydeterminemattersinasummaryway，asispractisedinthosewecallPyePowderCourtsinotherplaces，orasaCourtofConscience；andtheyhaveafinalauthoritywithoutappeal。
IcomenowtothetownanduniversityofCambridge；Isaythetownanduniversity，forthoughtheyareblendedtogetherinthesituation，andthecolleges，halls，andhousesforliteraturearepromiscuouslyscatteredupanddownamongtheotherparts，andsomeevenamongthemeanestoftheotherbuildings，asMagdaleneCollegeoverthebridgeisinparticular；yettheyareallincorporatedtogetherbythenameoftheuniversity，andaregovernedapartanddistinctfromthetownwhichtheyaresointermixedwith。
Astheirauthorityisdistinctfromthetown，soaretheirprivileges，customs，andgovernment；theychooserepresentatives，ormembersofParliamentforthemselves，andthetowndoesthelikeforthemselves，alsoapart。
Thetownisgovernedbyamayorandaldermen；theuniversitybyachancellor，andvice-chancellor，etc。Thoughtheirdwellingsaremixed，andseemalittleconfused，theirauthorityisnotso；insomecasesthevice-chancellormayconcernhimselfinthetown，asinsearchinghousesforthescholarsatimproperhours，removingscandalouswomen，andthelike。
Butasthecollegesaremany，andthegentlemenentertainedinthemareaverygreatnumber，thetradeofthetownverymuchdependsuponthem，andthetradesmenmayjustlybesaidtogettheirbreadbythecolleges；andthisisthesurestholdtheuniversitymaybesaidtohaveofthetownsmen，andbywhichtheysecurethedependenceofthetownuponthem，andconsequentlytheirsubmission。
Iremembersomeyearsagoabrewer，whobeingveryrichandpopularinthetown，andoneoftheirmagistrates，hadinseveralthingssomuchopposedtheuniversity，andinsultedtheirvice-chancellor，orotherheadsofhouses，thatinshorttheuniversityhavingnootherwaytoexertthemselves，andshowtheirresentment，theymadeabye-lawororderamongthemselves，thatforthefuturetheywouldnottradewithhim；andthatnoneofthecolleges，halls，etc。，wouldtakeanymorebeerofhim；andwhatfollowed？Themanindeedbraveditoutawhile，butwhenhefoundhecouldnotobtainarevocationoftheorder，hewasfaintoleaveoffhisbrewhouse，andifIrememberright，quittedthetown。
ThusIsay，interestgivesthemauthority；andthereareabundanceofreasonswhythetownshouldnotdisobligetheuniversity，astherearesomealsoontheotherhand，whytheuniversityshouldnotdiffertoanyextremitywiththetown；nor，suchistheirprudence，dotheyletanydisputesbetweenthemrunuptoanyextremitiesiftheycanavoidit。Asforsociety；toanymanwhoisaloveroflearning，oroflearnedmen，hereisthemostagreeableunderheaven；noristhereanywantofmirthandgoodcompanyofotherkinds；butitistothehonouroftheuniversitytosay，thatthegovernorssowellunderstandtheiroffice，andthegovernedtheirduty，thathereisverylittleencouragementgiventothoseseminariesofcrime，theassemblies，whicharesomuchboastedofinotherplaces。
Again，asdancing，gaming，intriguingarethethreeprincipalarticleswhichrecommendthoseassemblies；andthatgenerallythetimeforcarryingonaffairsofthiskindisthenight，andsometimesallnight，atimeasunseasonableasscandalous；addtothis，thattheordersoftheuniversityadmitnosuchexcesses；I
thereforesay，asthisisthecase，itistothehonourofthewholebodyoftheuniversitythatnoencouragementisgiventothemhere。
Astotheantiquityoftheuniversityinthistown，theoriginalsandfoundersoftheseveralcolleges，theirrevenues，laws，government，andgovernors，theyaresoeffectuallyandsolargelytreatedofbyotherauthors，andaresoforeigntothefamiliardesignoftheseletters，thatIrefermyreaderstoMr。Camden\'s\"Britannia\"andtheauthorofthe\"AntiquitiesofCambridge，\"andothersuchlearnedwriters，bywhomtheymaybefullyinformed。
ThepresentVice-ChancellorisDr。Snape，formerlyMasterofEatonSchoolnearWindsor，andfamousforhisdisputewith，andevidentadvantageover，thelateBishopofBangorinthetimeofhisgovernment；thedisputebetweentheUniversityandtheMasterofTrinityCollegehasbeenbroughttoaheadsoastoemploythepensofthelearnedonbothsides，butatlastprosecutedinajudicialwaysoastodepriveDr。Bentleyofallhisdignitiesandofficesintheuniversity；butthedoctorflyingtotheroyalprotection，theuniversityisunderawritofmandamus，toshowcausewhytheydonotrestorethedoctoragain，towhichitseemstheydemur，andthatdemurhasnot，thatwehear，beenargued，atleastwhenthesesheetsweresenttothepress。Whatwillbetheissuetimemustshow。
FromCambridgetheroadliesnorth-westontheedgeofthefenstoHuntingdon，whereitjoinsthegreatnorthroad。Onthissideitisallanagreeablecorncountryasabove，adornedwithseveralseatsofgentlemen；butthechiefisthenoblehouse，seat，ormansionofWimpleorWimpleHall，formerlybuiltatavastexpensebythelateEarlofRadnor，adornedwithallthenaturalbeautiesofsituation，andtowhichwasaddedallthemostexquisitecontrivanceswhichthebestheadscouldinventtomakeitartificiallyaswellasnaturallypleasant。
However，thefateoftheRadnorfamilysodirecting，itwasboughtwiththewholeestateaboutitbythelateDukeofNewcastle，inapartitionofwhoseimmenseestateitfelltotheRightHonourabletheLordHarley，sonandheir-apparentofthepresentEarlofOxfordandMortimer，inrightoftheLadyHarrietCavendish，onlydaughterofthesaidDukeofNewcastle，whoismarriedtohislordship，andbroughthimthisestateandmanyother，sufficienttodenominatehertherichestheiressinGreatBritain。
Herehislordshipresides，andhasalreadysorecommendedhimselftothiscountyastobebyagreatmajoritychosenKnightoftheShireforthecountyofCambridge。
FromCambridge，mydesignobligingme，andthedirectroadinpartconcurring，IcamebackthroughthewestpartofthecountyofEssex，andatSaffronWaldenIsawtheruinsoftheoncelargestandmostmagnificentpileinallthispartofEngland-viz。，AudleyEnd-builtby，anddecayingwith，thenobleDukesandEarlsofSuffolk。
AlittlenorthofthispartofthecountryrisestheRiverStour，whichforacourseoffiftymilesormorepartsthetwocountiesofSuffolkandEssex，passingthroughornearHaveril，Clare，Cavendish，Halsted，Sudbury，Bowers，Nayland，Stretford，Dedham，Manningtree，andintotheseaatHarwich，assistingbyitswaterstomakeoneofthebestharboursforshippingthatisinGreatBritain-ImeanOrwellHavenorHarwich，ofwhichIhavespokenlargelyalready。
AswecameonthissidewesawatadistanceBraintreeandBocking，twotowns，large，rich，andpopulous，andmadesooriginallybythebaytrade，ofwhichIhavespokenatlargeatColchester，andwhichflourishesstillamongthem。
ThemanorofBraintreeIfounddescendedbypurchasetothenameofOlmeus，thesonofaLondonmerchantofthesamename，makinggoodwhatIhadobservedbefore，ofthegreatnumberofsuchwhohavepurchasedestatesinthiscounty。
NearthistownisFelsted，asmallplace，butnotedforafreeschoolofanancientfoundation，formanyyearsunderthemastershipofthelateRev。Mr。Lydiat，andbroughtbyhimtothemeridianofitsreputation。Itisnowsupplied，andthatveryworthily，bytheRev。Mr。Hutchins。
NeartothisisthePrioryofLees，adeliciousseatofthelateDukesofManchester，butsoldbythepresentDuketotheDuchessDowagerofBucks，hisGracetheDukeofManchesterremovingtohisyetfinerseatofKimboltoninNorthamptonshire，theancientmansionofthefamily。FromhencekeepingtheLondonRoadIcametoChelmsford，mentionedbefore，andIngerstone，fivemileswest，whichImentionagain，becauseintheparishchurchofthistownaretobeseentheancientmonumentsofthenoblefamilyofPetre，whoseseatandlargeestatelieintheneighbourhood，andwhosewholefamily，byaconstantseriesofbeneficentactionstothepoor，andbountyuponallcharitableoccasions，havegainedanaffectionateesteemthroughallthatpartofthecountrysuchasnoprejudiceofreligioncouldwearout，orperhapsevermay；andI
mustconfess，Ithink，neednot，forgoodandgreatactionscommandourrespect，lettheopinionsofthepersonsbeotherwisewhattheywill。
Fromhencewecrossedthecountrytothegreatforest，calledEppingForest，reachingalmosttoLondon。ThecountryonthatsideofEssexiscalledtheRoodings，Isuppose，becausetherearenolessthantentownsalmosttogether，calledbythenameofRoding，andisfamousforgoodland，goodmalt，anddirtyroads；thelatterindeedinthewinterarescarcepassableforhorseorman。InthemidstofthisweseeChippingOnger，HatfieldBroadOak，Epping，andmanyforesttowns，famedasIhavesaidforhusbandryandgoodmalt，butofnoothernote。OnthesouthsideofthecountyisWalthamAbbey；theruinsoftheabbeyremain，andthoughantiquityisnotmyproperbusiness，IcouldnotbutobservethatKingHarold，slaininthegreatbattleinSussexagainstWilliamtheConqueror，liesburiedhere；hisbodybeingbeggedbyhismother，theConquerorallowedittobecarriedhither；butnomonumentwas，asIcanfind，builtforhim，onlyaflatgravestone，onwhichwasengravenHAROLDINFELIX。
FromhenceIcameovertheforestagain-thatistosay，overthelowerorwesternpartofit，whereitisspangledwithfinevillages，andthesevillagesfilledwithfineseats，mostofthembuiltbythecitizensofLondon，asIobservedbefore，butthelustreofthemseemstobeentirelyswallowedupinthemagnificentpalaceoftheLordCastlemain，whosefather，SirJosiahChild，asitwere，prepareditinhislifeforthedesignofhisson，thoughaltogetherunforeseen，byaddingtotheadvantageofitssituationinnumerablerowsoftrees，plantedincuriousorderforavenuesandvistastothehouse，allleadinguptotheplacewheretheoldhousestood，astoacentre。
Intheplaceadjoining，hislordship，whilehewasyetSirRichardChildonly，andsomeyearsbeforehebeganthefoundationofhisnewhouse，laidoutthemostdelicious，aswellasmostspacious，piecesofgroundforgardensthatistobeseeninallthispartofEngland。Thegreenhouseisanexcellentbuilding，fittoentertainaprince；itisfurnishedwithstovesandartificialplacesforheatfromanapartmentinwhichisabagnioandotherconveniences，whichrenderitbothusefulandpleasant。Andthesegardenshavebeensothejustadmirationoftheworld，thatithasbeenthegeneraldiversionofthecitizenstogoouttoseethem，tillthecrowdsgrewtoogreat，andhislordshipwasobligedtorestrainhisservantsfromshowingthem，exceptononeortwodaysinaweekonly。
Thehouseisbuiltsincethesegardenshavebeenfinished。ThebuildingisallofPortlandstoneinthefront，whichmakesitlookextremelygloriousandmagnificentatadistance，itbeingtheparticularpropertyofthatstoneexceptinthestreetsofLondon，whereitistaintedandtingedwiththesmokeofthecitytogrowwhiterandwhiterthelongeritstandsintheopenair。
Asthefrontofthehouseopenstoalongrowoftrees，reachingtothegreatroadatLeightonstone，sothebackface，orfrontifthatbeproper，respectsthegardens，and，withaneasydescent，landsyouupontheterrace，fromwhenceisamostbeautifulprospecttotheriver，whichisallformedintocanalsandopeningstoanswertheviewsfromaboveandbeyondtheriver；thewalksandwildernessesgoontosuchadistance，andinsuchamannerupthehill，astheybeforewentdown，thatthesightislostinthewoodsadjoining，anditlooksalllikeoneplantedgardenasfarastheeyecansee。
Ishallcoverasmuchaspossiblethemelancholypartofastorywhichtouchestoosensiblymany，ifnotmost，ofthegreatandflourishingfamiliesinEngland。Pityandmatterofgriefisittothinkthatfamilies，byestateabletoappearinsuchagloriouspostureasthis，shouldeverbevulnerablebysomeanadisasterasthatofstock-jobbing。Butthegeneralinfatuationofthedayisapleaforit，sothatmenarenotnowblamedonthataccount。SouthSeawasageneralpossession，andifmyLordCastlemainwaswoundedbythatarrowshotinthedarkitwasamisfortune。Butitissomuchahappinessthatitwasnotamortalwound，asitwastosomemenwhoonceseemedasmuchoutofthereachofit。Andthatblow，beitwhatitwill，isnotrememberedforjoyoftheescape，forweseethisnoblefamily，byprudenceandmanagement，riseoutofallthatcloud，ifitmaybeallowedsuchaname，andshininginthesamefulllustreasbefore。
Thiscannotbesaidofsomeotherfamiliesinthiscounty，whosefineparksandnew-builtpalacesarefallenunderforfeituresandalienationsbythemisfortunesofthetimesandbytheruinoftheirmasters\'fortunesinthatSouthSeadeluge。
ButIdesiretothrowaveiloverthesethingsastheycomeinmyway；itisenoughthatwewriteuponthem，aswaswrittenuponKingHarold\'stombatWalthamAbbey，INFELIX，andletalltherestsleepamongthingsthatarethefittesttobeforgotten。
FrommyLordCastlemain\'s，houseandtherestofthefinedwellingsonthatsideoftheforest，forthereareseveralverygoodhousesatWanstead，onlythattheyseemallswallowedupinthelustreofhislordship\'spalace，Isay，fromthence，Iwentsouth，towardsthegreatroadoverthatpartoftheforestcalledtheFlats，whereweseeaverybeautifulbutretiredandruralseatofMr。
Lethulier\'s，eldestsonofthelateSirJohnLethulier，ofLusum，inKent，ofwhosefamilyIshallspeakwhenIcomeonthatside。
BythisturnIcamenecessarilyontoStratford，whereIsetout。
Andthushavingfinishedmyfirstcircuit，Iconcludemyfirstletter，andam，Sir，yourmosthumbleandobedientservant。
APPENDIX。
Whoevertravels，asIdo，overEngland，andwritestheaccountofhisobservations，will，asInotedbefore，alwaysleavesomething，alteringorundertakingbysuchagrowingimprovingnationasthis，orsomethingtodiscoverinanationwheresomuchishid，sufficienttoemploythepensofthosethatcomeafterhim，ortoaddbywayofappendixtowhathehasalreadyobserved。
Thisismycasewithrespecttotheparticularswhichfollow:1
Sincethesesheetswereinthepress，anoblepalaceofMr。
Walpole\'s，atpresentFirstCommissioneroftheTreasury，Privy-
counsellor，etc。，toKingGeorge，is，asitwere，risenoutoftheruinsoftheancientseatofthefamilyofWalpole，atHoughton，abouteightmilesdistantfromLynn，andonthenorthcoastofNorfolk，nearthesea。
Asthehouseisnotyetfinished，andwhenIpassedbyitwasbutnewlydesigned，itcannotbeexpectedthatIshouldbeabletogiveaparticulardescriptionofwhatitwillbe。Icandolittlemorethanmentionthatitappearsalreadytobeexceedinglymagnificent，andsuitabletothegeniusofthegreatfounder。
Butafriendofmine，wholivesinthatcounty，hassentmethefollowinglines，which，ashesays，aretobeplaceduponthebuilding，whetheronthefriezeofthecornice，orovertheportico，oronwhatpartofthebuilding，ofthatIamnotasyetcertain。Theinscriptionisasfollows，viz。:-
\"H。M。F。
\"FundamenutessemDomusInAgroNataliExtruendae，RobertusilleWalpoleQuemnullanescietPosteritas:
FaxitDues。
\"PostquamMaturusAnnisDominus。
DiuLaetatusfueritabsolutaIncolumemtueanturIncolames。
AdSummamomniumDiemEtnatinatorumetquinascenturabillis。
HicmePosuit。\"
Asecondthingpropertobeaddedhere，bywayofappendix，relatestowhatIhavementionedofthePortofLondon，beingboundedbytheNazeontheEssexshore，andtheNorthForelandontheKentishshore，whichsomepeople，guidedbythepresentusageoftheCustomHouse，maypretendisnotso，toanswersuchobjectors。Thetruestateofthatcasestandsthus:
\"1TheclausetakenfromtheActofParliamentestablishingtheextentofthePortofLondon，andpublishedinsomeofthebooksofrates，isthis:
\"\'TopreventallfuturedifferencesanddisputestouchingtheextentandlimitsofthePortofLondon，thesaidportisdeclaredtoextend，andbeaccountedfromthepromontoryorpointcalledtheNorthForelandintheIsleofThanet，andfromthencenorthwardinarightlinetothepointcalledtheNaze，beyondtheGunfleetuponthecoastofEssex，andsocontinuedwestwardthroughouttheriverThames，andtheseveralchannels，streams，andriversfallingintoit，toLondonBridge，savingtheusualandknownrights，liberties，andprivilegesoftheportsofSandwichandIpswich，andeitherofthem，andtheknownmembersthereof，andofthecustomers，comptrollers，searchers，andtheirdeputies，ofandwithinthesaidportsofSandwichandIpswichandtheseveralcreeks，harbours，andhavenstothem，oreitherofthem，respectivelybelonging，withinthecountiesofKentandEssex。\'
\"II。Notwithstandingwhatisabovewritten，thePortofLondon，asinusesincethesaidorder，isunderstoodtoreachnofartherthanGravesendinKentandTilburyPointinEssex，andtheportsofRochester，Milton，andFavershambelongtotheportofSandwich。
\"InlikemannertheportsofHarwich，Colchester，Wivenhoe，Malden，Leigh，etc。，aresaidtobemembersoftheportofIpswich。\"
ThisobservationmaysufficeforwhatisneedfultobesaiduponthesamesubjectwhenImaycometospeakoftheportofSandwichanditsmembersandtheirprivilegeswithrespecttoRochester，Milton，Faversham，etc。，inmycircuitthroughthecountyofKent。