第4章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"Tour Through the Eastern Counties of England",免费读到尾

  TheruinsofCarthage,ofthegreatcityofJerusalem,orofancientRome,arenotatallwonderfultome。TheruinsofNineveh,whicharesoentiretysunkasthatitisdoubtfulwherethecitystood;theruinsofBabylon,orthegreatPersepolis,andmanycapitalcities,whichtimeandthechangeofmonarchieshaveoverthrown,these,Isay,arenotatallwonderful,becausebeingthecapitalsofgreatandflourishingkingdoms,wherethosekingdomswereoverthrown,thecapitalcitiesnecessarilyfellwiththem;butforaprivatetown,aseaport,andatownofcommerce,todecay,asitwere,ofitselfforweneverreadofDunwichbeingplunderedorruinedbyanydisaster,atleast,notoflateyears;

  this,Imustconfess,seemsowingtonothingbuttothefateofthings,bywhichweseethattowns,kings,countries,families,andpersons,havealltheirelevation,theirmedium,theirdeclination,andeventheirdestructioninthewomboftime,andthecourseofnature。Itistrue,thistownismanifestlydecayedbytheinvasionofthewaters,andasothertownsseemsufferersbythesea,orthetidewithdrawingfromtheirports,suchasOrford,justnownamed,WinchelseainKent,andthelike,sothistownis,asitwere,eatenupbythesea,asabove;andthestillencroachingoceanseemstothreatenitwithafatalimmersioninafewyearsmore。

  YetDunwich,howeverruined,retainssomeshareoftrade,asparticularlyfortheshippingofbutter,cheese,andcorn,whichissogreatabusinessinthiscounty,thatitemploysagreatmanypeopleandshipsalso;andthisportliesrightagainsttheparticularpartofthecountyforbutter,asFramlingham,Halstead,etc。AlsoaverygreatquantityofcornisboughtuphereaboutfortheLondonmarket;forIshallstilltouchthatpointhowallthecountiesinEnglandcontributesomethingtowardsthesubsistenceofthegreatcityofLondon,ofwhichthebutterhereisaveryconsiderablearticle;asalsocoarsecheese,whichImentionedbefore,usedchieflyfortheking\'sships。

  Hereaboutstheybegintotalkofherringsandthefishery;andwefindintheancientrecordsthatthistown,whichwasthenequaltoalargecity,paid,amongothertributetothegovernment,fiftythousandofherrings。Herealso,andatSwole,orSouthole,thenextseaport,theycurespratsinthesamemannerastheydoherringsatYarmouth;thatistosay,speakingintheirownlanguage,theymakeredsprats;ortospeakgoodEnglish,theymakespratsred。

  Itisremarkablethatthistownisnowsomuchwashedawaybythesea,thatwhatlittletradetheyhaveiscarriedonbyWalderswick,alittletownnearSwole,thevesselscominginthere,becausetheruinsofDunwichmaketheshorethereunsafeanduneasytotheboats;fromwhencethenortherncoastingseamenarudeverseoftheirownusing,andIsupposeoftheirownmaking,asfollows,\"SwoulandDunwich,andWalderswick,Allgoinatonelousiecreek。\"

  This\"lousiecreek,\"inshort,isalittleriveratSwoul,whichourlatefamousatlas-makercallsagoodharbourforships,andrendezvousoftheroyalnavy;butthatby-the-bye;theauthor,itseems,knewnobetter。

  FromDunwichwecametoSouthwold,thetownabove-named:thisisasmallporttownuponthecoast,atthemouthofalittlerivercalledtheBlith。Ifoundnobusinessthepeopleherewereemployedinbutthefishery,asabove,forherringsandsprats,whichtheycurebythehelpofsmoke,astheydoatYarmouth。

  Thereisbutonechurchinthistown,butitisaverylargeoneandwellbuilt,asmostofthechurchesinthiscountyare,andofimpenetrableflint;indeed,thereisnooccasionforitsbeingsolarge,forstayingthereoneSabbathday,Iwassurprisedtoseeanextraordinarylargechurch,capableofreceivingfiveorsixthousandpeople,andbuttwenty-seveninitbesidestheparsonandtheclerk;butatthesametimethemeeting-houseoftheDissenterswasfulltotheverydoors,having,asIguessed,fromsixtoeighthundredpeopleinit。

  Thistownismadefamousforaverygreatengagementatsea,intheyear1672,betweentheEnglishandDutchfleets,inthebayoppositetothetown,inwhich,nottobepartialtoourselves,theEnglishfleetwasworsted;andthebraveMontague,EarlofSandwich,AdmiralundertheDukeofYork,losthislife。TheshipROYALPRINCE,carryingonehundredguns,inwhichhewas,andwhichwasunderhim,commandedbySirEdwardSpragg,wasburnt,andseveralothershipslost,andaboutsixhundredseamen;partofthosekilledinthefightwere,asIwastold,broughtonshorehereandburiedinthechurchyardofthistown,asothersalsowereatIpswich。

  Atthistowninparticular,andsoatallthetownsonthiscoast,fromOrfordnesstoYarmouth,istheordinaryplacewhereoursummerfriendstheswallowsfirstlandwhentheycometovisitus;andheretheymaybesaidtoembarkfortheirreturn,whentheygobackintowarmerclimates;andasIthinkthefollowingremark,thoughofsotriflingacircumstance,maybebothinstructingaswellasdiverting,itmaybeveryproperinthisplace。Thecaseisthis;

  Iwassomeyearsbeforeatthisplace,atthelatterendoftheyear,viz。,aboutthebeginningofOctober,andlodginginahousethatlookedintothechurchyard,Iobservedintheevening,anunusualmultitudeofbirdssittingontheleadsofthechurch。

  Curiosityledmetogonearertoseewhattheywere,andIfoundtheywereallswallows;thattherewassuchaninfinitenumberthattheycoveredthewholeroofofthechurch,andofseveralhousesnear,andperhapsmightofmorehouseswhichIdidnotsee。ThisledmetoinquireofagravegentlemanwhomIsawnearme,whatthemeaningwasofsuchaprodigiousmultitudeofswallowssittingthere。\"Oh,sir,\"sayshe,turningtowardsthesea,\"youmayseethereason;thewindisoffsea。\"Ididnotseemfullyinformedbythatexpression,sohegoeson,\"Iperceive,sir,\"sayshe,\"youareastrangertoit;youmustthenunderstandfirst,thatthisistheseasonoftheyearwhentheswallows,theirfoodherefailing,begintoleaveus,andreturntothecountry,whereveritbe,fromwhenceIsupposetheycame;andthisbeingthenearesttothecoastofHolland,theycomeheretoembark\"thishesaidsmilingalittle;\"andnow,sir,\"sayshe,\"theweatherbeingtoocalmorthewindcontrary,theyarewaitingforagale,fortheyareallwind-bound。\"

  Thiswasmoreevidenttome,wheninthemorningIfoundthewindhadcomeabouttothenorth-westinthenight,andtherewasnotoneswallowtobeseenofnearamillion,whichIbelievewastherethenightbefore。

  HowthosecreaturesknowthatthispartoftheIslandofGreatBritainisthewaytotheirhome,orthewaythattheyaretogo;

  thatthisverypointisthenearestcutover,oreventhatthenearestcutisbestforthem,thatwemustleavetothenaturaliststodetermine,whoinsistuponitthatbrutescannotthink。

  Certainitisthattheswallowsneithercomehitherforwarmweathernorretirefromcold;thethingisofquiteanothernature。

  They,liketheshoalsoffishinthesea,pursuetheirprey;theyareavoraciouscreature,theyfeedflying;theirfoodisfoundintheair,viz。,theinsects,ofwhichinoursummerevenings,indampandmoistplaces,theairisfull。Theycomehitherinthesummerbecauseourairisfulleroffogsanddampsthaninothercountries,andforthatreasonfeedsgreatquantitiesofinsects。

  Iftheairbehotanddrythegnatsdieofthemselves,andeventheswallowswillbefoundfamishedforwant,andfalldowndeadoutoftheair,theirfoodbeingtakenfromthem。Inlikemanner,whencoldweathercomesintheinsectsalldie,andthenofnecessitytheswallowsquitus,andfollowtheirfoodwherevertheygo。ThistheydointhemannerIhavementionedabove,forsometimestheyareseentogooffinvastflightslikeacloud。Andsometimesagain,whenthewindgrowsfair,theygoawayafewandafewastheycome,notstayingatalluponthecoast。

  Note-Thispassingandre-passingoftheswallowsisobservednowheresomuch,thatIhaveheardof,orinbutfewotherplaces,exceptonthiseasterncoast,namely,fromaboveHarwichtotheeastpointofNorfolk,calledWintertonNess,North,whichisallrightagainstHolland。Weknownothingofthemanyfarthernorth,thepassageoftheseabeing,asIsuppose,toobroadfromFlamboroughHeadandtheshoreofHoldernessinYorkshire,etc。

  IfindverylittleremarkableonthissideofSuffolk,butwhatisonthesea-shoreasabove。TheinlandcountryisthatwhichtheyproperlycallHighSuffolk,andisfullofrichfeedinggroundsandlargefarms,mostlyemployedindairiesformakingtheSuffolkbutterandcheese,ofwhichIhavespokenalready。Amongtheserichgroundsstandsomemarkettowns,thoughnotofveryconsiderablenote;suchasFramlingham,wherewasoncearoyalcastle,towhichQueenMaryretiredwhentheNorthumberlandfaction,inbehalfoftheLadyJane,endeavouredtosupplanther。

  AnditwasthispartofSuffolkwheretheGospellers,astheywerethencalled,preferredtheirloyaltytotheirreligion,andcomplimentedthePopishlineatexpenseoftheirshareoftheReformation。Buttheypaiddearforit,andtheirsuccessorshavelearnedbetterpoliticssince。

  Inthesepartsarealsoseveralgoodmarkettowns,someinthiscountyandsomeintheother,asBeccles,Bungay,Harlston,etc。,allontheedgeoftheRiverWaveney,whichpartsherethecountiesofSuffolkandNorfolk。Andhereinabye-place,andoutofcommonremark,liestheancienttownofHoxon,famousforbeingtheplacewhereSt。Edmundwasmartyred,forwhomsomanycellsandshrineshavebeensetupandmonasteriesbuilt,andinhonourofwhomthefamousmonasteryofSt。Edmundsbury,abovementioned,wasfounded,whichmostpeopleerroneouslythinkwastheplacewherethesaidmurderwascommitted。

  Besidesthetownsmentionedabove,thereareHalesworth,Saxmundham,Debenham,Aye,orEye,allstandinginthiseasternsideofSuffolk,inwhich,asIhavesaid,thewholecountryisemployedindairiesorinfeedingofcattle。

  ThispartofEnglandisalsoremarkableforbeingthefirstwherethefeedingandfatteningofcattle,bothsheepaswellasblackcattle,withturnips,wasfirstpractisedinEngland,whichismadeaverygreatpartoftheimprovementoftheirlandstothisday,andfromwhencethepracticeisspreadovermostoftheeastandsouthpartsofEnglandtothegreatenrichingofthefarmersandincreaseoffatcattle。Andthoughsomehaveobjectedagainstthegoodnessofthefleshthusfedwithturnips,andhavefancieditwouldtasteoftheroot,yetuponexperienceitisfoundthatatmarketthereisnodifference,norcantheythatbuysingleoutonejointofmuttonfromanotherbythetaste。Sothatthecomplaintwhichournicepalatesatfirstmadebeginstoceaseofitself,andaverygreatquantityofbeefandmuttonalsoisbroughteveryyearandeveryweektoLondonfromthissideofEngland,andmuchmorethanwasformerlyknowntobefedthere。

  Icannotomit,howeverlittleitmayseem,thatthiscountyofSuffolkisparticularlyfamousforfurnishingtheCityofLondonandallthecountiesroundwithturkeys,andthatitisthoughttherearemoreturkeysbredinthiscountyandthepartofNorfolkthatadjoinstoitthaninalltherestofEngland,especiallyforsale,thoughthismaybereckoned,asIsayabove,butatriflingthingtotakenoticeofintheseremarks;yet,asIhavehinted,thatIshallobservehowLondonisingeneralsuppliedwithallitsprovisionsfromthewholebodyofthenation,andhoweverypartoftheislandisengagedinsomedegreeorotherofthatsupply。OnthisaccountIcouldnotomitit,norwillitbefoundsoinconsiderableanarticleassomemayimagine,ifthisbetrue,whichIreceivedanaccountoffromapersonlivingontheplace,viz。,thattheyhavecountedthreehundreddrovesofturkeysfortheydrivethemallindrovesonfootpassinoneseasonoverStratfordBridgeontheRiverStour,whichpartsSuffolkfromEssex,aboutsixmilesfromColchester,ontheroadfromIpswichtoLondon。Thesedroves,astheysay,generallycontainfromthreehundredtoathousandeachdrove;sothatonemaysupposethemtocontainfivehundredonewithanother,whichisonehundredandfiftythousandinall;andyetthisisoneoftheleastpassages,thenumberswhichtravelbyNewmarketHeathandtheopencountryandtheforest,andalsothenumbersthatcomebySudburyandClarebeingmanymore。

  ForthefurthersuppliesofthemarketsofLondonwithpoultry,ofwhichthesecountriesparticularlyabound,theyhavewithinthesefewyearsfounditpracticabletomakethegeesetravelonfoottoo,aswellastheturkeys,andaprodigiousnumberarebroughtuptoLondonindrovesfromthefarthestpartsofNorfolk;evenfromthefencountryaboutLynn,Downham,Wisbech,andtheWashes;asalsofromalltheeastsideofNorfolkandSuffolk,ofwhomitisveryfrequentnowtomeetdroveswithathousand,sometimestwothousandinadrove。TheybegintodrivethemgenerallyinAugust,bywhichtimetheharvestisalmostover,andthegeesemayfeedinthestubblesastheygo。ThustheyholdontotheendofOctober,whentheroadsbegintobetoostiffanddeepfortheirbroadfeetandshortlegstomarchin。

  Besidesthesemethodsofdrivingthesecreaturesonfoot,theyhaveoflatealsoinventedanewmethodofcarriage,beingcartsformedonpurpose,withfourstoriesorstagestoputthecreaturesinoneaboveanother,bywhichinventiononecartwillcarryaverygreatnumber;andforthesmoothergoingtheydrivewithtwohorsesabreast,likeacoach,soquarteringtheroadfortheeaseofthegentrythatthusride。Changinghorses,theytravelnightandday,sothattheybringthefowlsseventy,eighty,or,onehundredmilesintwodaysandonenight。Thehorsesinthisnew-fashionedvoituregotwoabreast,asabove,butnoperchbelow,asinacoach,buttheyarefastenedtogetherbyapieceofwoodlyingcrosswiseupontheirnecks,bywhichtheyarekeptevenandtogether,andthedriversitsonthetopofthecartlikeasinthepubliccarriagesforthearmy,etc。

  Inthismannertheyhurryawaythecreaturesalive,andinfinitenumbersarethuscarriedtoLondoneveryyear。Thismethodisalsoparticularforthecarryingyoungturkeysorturkeypoultsintheirseason,whicharevaluable,andyieldagoodpriceatmarket;asalsoforlivechickensinthedearseasons,ofallwhichaverygreatnumberarebroughtinthismannertoLondon,andmoreprodigiouslyoutofthiscountrythananyotherpartofEngland,whichisthereasonofmyspeakingofithere。

  Inthispart,whichwecallHighSuffolk,therearenotsomanyfamiliesofgentryornobilityplacedasintheothersideofthecountry。Butitisobservedthatthoughtheirseatsarenotsofrequenthere,theirestatesare;andthepleasureofWestSuffolkismuchofitsupportedbythewealthofHighSuffolk,fortherichnessofthelandsandapplicationofthepeopletoallkindsofimprovementisscarcecredible;alsothefarmersaresoveryconsiderableandtheirfarmsanddairiessolargethatitisveryfrequentforafarmertohave1,000poundsstockuponhisfarmincowsonly。

  NORFOLK。

  FromHighSuffolkIpassedtheWaveneyintoNorfolk,nearScholeInn。InmypassageIsawatRedgravetheseatofthefamilyamostexquisitemonumentofSirJohnHolt,Knight,lateLordChiefJusticeoftheKing\'sBenchseveralyears,andoneofthemosteminentlawyersofhistime。OneoftheheirsofthefamilyisnowbuildingafineseataboutamileonthesouthsideofIpswich,neartheroad。

  Theepitaphorinscriptiononthismonumentisasfollows:-

  M。S。

  D。JohannisHolt,EquitisAur。

  TotiusAnglioeinBancoRegisper21AnnoscontinuosCapitalisJustitiariiGulielmoRegiAnnoequrReginaeConsiliariiperpetui:

  LibertatisacLegumAnglicarumAssertoris,Vindicis,Custodis,VigilisAcris&intrepidi,RolandusFraterUncius&HoeresOptimedeseMeritoposuit,DieMartisVto。1709。SublatusestexOculisnostrisNatus30Decembris,Anno1642。

  WhenwecomeintoNorfolk,weseeafaceofdiligencespreadoverthewholecountry;thevastmanufacturescarriedoninchiefbytheNorwichweaversemploysallthecountryroundinspinningyarnforthem;besidesmanythousandpacksofyarnwhichtheyreceivefromothercountries,evenfromasfarasYorkshireandWestmoreland,ofwhichIshallspeakinitsplace。

  ThissideofNorfolkisverypopulous,andthrongedwithgreatandspaciousmarket-towns,moreandlargerthananyotherpartofEnglandsofarfromLondon,exceptDevonshire,andtheWestRidingofYorkshire;forexample,betweenthefrontiersofSuffolkandthecityofNorwichonthisside,whichisnotabove22milesinbreadth,arethefollowingmarket-towns,viz。:-

  Thetford,Hingham,Harleston,Diss,WestDereham,E。Dereham,Harling,Attleborough,Watton,Bucknam,Windham,Loddon,etc。

  Mostofthesetownsareverypopulousandlarge;butthatwhichismostremarkableis,thatthewholecountryroundthemissointerspersedwithvillages,andthosevillagessolarge,andsofullofpeople,thattheyareequaltomarket-townsinothercountries;inaword,theyrenderthiseasternpartofNorfolkexceedingfullofinhabitants。

  AneminentweaverofNorwichgavemeaschemeoftheirtradeonthisoccasion,bywhich,calculatingfromthenumberofloomsatthattimeemployedinthecityofNorwichonly,besidesthoseemployedinothertownsinthesamecounty,hemadeitappearveryplain,thattherewere120,000peopleemployedinthewoollenandsilkandwoolmanufacturesofthatcityonly;notthatthepeoplealllivedinthecity,thoughNorwichisaverylargeandpopulouscitytoo:but,Isay,theywereemployedforspinningtheyarnusedforsuchgoodsaswereallmadeinthatcity。Thisaccountiscuriousenough,andveryexact,butitistoolongforthecompassofthiswork。

  ThisshowsthewonderfulextentoftheNorwichmanufacture,orstuff-weavingtrade,bywhichsomanythousandsoffamiliesaremaintained。Theirtrade,indeed,feltaverysensibledecay,andthecriesofthepoorbegantobeveryloud,whenthewearingofpaintedcalicoeswasgrowntosuchaheightinEngland,aswasseenabouttwoorthreeyearsago;butanActofParliamenthavingbeenobtained,thoughnotwithoutgreatstruggle,intheyears1720and1721,forprohibitingtheuseandwearingofcalicoes,thestufftraderevivedincredibly;andasIpassedthispartofthecountryintheyear1723,themanufacturersassuredmethattherewasnot,inalltheeasternandmiddlepartofNorfolk,anyhandunemployed,iftheywouldwork;andthattheverychildren,afterfourorfiveyearsofage,couldeveryoneearntheirownbread。ButIreturntospeakofthevillagesandtownsintherestofthecounty;I

  shallcometothecityofNorwichbyitself。

  Thisthrongofvillagescontinuesthroughalltheeastpartofthecountry,whichisofthegreatestextent,andwherethemanufactureischieflycarriedon。Ifanypartofitbewasteandthinofinhabitants,itisthewestpart,drawingalinefromaboutBrand,orBrandon,south,toWalsinghan,north。Thispartofthecountryindeedisfullofopenplains,andsomewhatsandyandbarren,andfeedsgreatflocksofgoodsheep;butputitalltogether,thecountyofNorfolkhasthemostpeopleintheleasttractoflandofanycountyinEngland,exceptaboutLondon,andExon,andtheWestRidingofYorkshire,asabove。

  Addtothis,thatthereisnosinglecountyinEngland,exceptasabove,thatcanboastofthreetownssopopulous,sorich,andsofamousfortradeandnavigation,asinthiscounty。Bythesethreetowns,ImeanthecityofNorwich,thetownsofYarmouthandLynn。

  Besidesthat,ithasseveralotherseaportsofverygoodtrade,asWisbech,Wells,Burnham,Clye,etc。

  Norwichisthecapitalofallthecounty,andthecentreofallthetradeandmanufactureswhichIhavejustmentioned;anancient,large,rich,andpopulouscity。IfastrangerwasonlytoridethroughorviewthecityofNorwichforaday,hewouldhavemuchmorereasontothinktherewasatownwithoutinhabitants,thanthereisreallytosaysoofIpswich;butonthecontraryifhewastoviewthecity,eitheronaSabbath-day,oronanypublicoccasion,hewouldwonderwhereallthepeoplecoulddwell,themultitudeissogreat。Butthecaseisthis:theinhabitantsbeingallbusyattheirmanufactures,dwellintheirgarretsattheirlooms,andintheircombingshopssotheycallthem,twisting-

  mills,andotherwork-houses,almostalltheworkstheyareemployedinbeingdonewithindoors。Thereareinthiscitythirty-twoparishesbesidesthecathedral,andagreatmanymeeting-housesofDissentersofalldenominations。Thepublicedificesarechieflythecastle,ancientanddecayed,andnowformanyyearspastmadeuseofforagaol。TheDukeofNorfolk\'shousewasformerlykeptwell,andthegardenspreservedforthepleasureanddiversionofthecitizens,butsincefeelingtoosensiblythesinkingcircumstancesofthatoncegloriousfamily,whowerethefirstpeersandhereditaryearl-marshalsofEngland。

  Thewallsofthiscityarereckonedthreemilesincircumference,takinginmoregroundthantheCityofLondon,butmuchofthatgroundlyingopeninpasture-fieldsandgardens;nordoesitseemtobe,likesomeancientplaces,adecayed,decliningtown,andthatthewallsmarkoutitsancientdimensions;forwedonotseeroomtosupposethatitwaseverlargerormorepopulousthanitisnow。Butthewallsseemtobeplacedasiftheyexpectedthatthecitywouldintimeincreasesufficientlytofillthemupwithbuildings。

  Thecathedralofthiscityisafinefabric,andthespiresteepleveryhighandbeautiful。Itisnotancient,thebishop\'sseehavingbeenfirstatThetford,fromwhenceitwasnottranslatedhithertillthetwelfthcentury。Yetthechurchhassomanyantiquitiesinit,thatourlategreatscholarandphysician,SirThomasBrown,thoughtitworthhiswhiletowriteawholebooktocollectthemonumentsandinscriptionsinthischurch,towhichI

  referthereader。

  TheRiverYarerunsthroughthiscity,andisnavigablethusfarwithoutthehelpofanyartthatistosay,withoutlocksorstops,andbeingincreasedbyotherwaters,passesafterwardsthroughalongtractoftherichestmeadows,andthelargest,takethemalltogether,thatareanywhereinEngland,lyingforthirtymilesinlength,fromthiscitytoYarmouth,includingthereturnofthesaidmeadowsonthebankoftheWaveneysouth,andontheRiverThyrnnorth。

  Hereisonethingindeedstrangeinitself,andmoreso,inthathistoryseemstobequiteignorantoftheoccasionofit。TheRiverWaveneyisaconsiderableriver,andofadeepandfullchannel,navigableforlargebargesashighasBeccles;itrunsforacourseofaboutfiftymiles,betweenthetwocountiesofSuffolkandNorfolk,asaboundarytoboth;andpushingon,thoughwithagentlestream,towardsthesea,noonewoulddoubt,but,thatwhentheyseetherivergrowingbroaderanddeeper,andgoingdirectlytowardsthesea,eventotheedgeofthebeach-thatistosay,withinamileofthemainocean-nostranger,Isay,butwouldexpecttoseeitsentranceintotheseaatthatplace,andanobleharbourforshipsatthemouthofit;whenonasudden,thelandrisinghighbytheseaside,crossestheheadoftheriver,likeadam,checksthewholecourseofit,anditreturns,bendingitscoursewest,fortwomiles,orthereabouts;andthenturningnorth,throughanotherlongcourseofmeadowsjoiningtothosejustnowmentionedseeksouttheRiverYare,thatitmayjoinitswaterwithhers,andfindtheirwaytotheseatogetherSomeofourhistorianstellalong,fabulousstoryofthisriverbeingonceopen,andafamousharbourforshipsbelongingtoatownofLowestoftadjoining;butthatthetownofYarmouthenvyingtheprosperityofthesaidtownofLowestoft,madewaruponthem;andthataftermanybloodybattles,aswellbyseaasbyland,theycameatlasttoadecisiveactionatseawiththeirrespectivefleets,andthevictoryfelltotheYarmouthmen,theLowestoftfleetbeingoverthrownandutterlydestroyed;andthatuponthisvictory,theYarmouthmeneitheractuallydidstopupthemouthofthesaidriver,orobligedthevanquishedLowestoftmentodoitthemselves,andboundthemnevertoattempttoopenitagain。

  Ibelievemyshareofthisstory,andIrecommendnomoreofittothereader;adding,thatIseenoauthorityfortherelation,neitherdotherelatorsagreeeitherinthetimeofit,orintheparticularsofthefact;thatistosay,inwhosereign,orunderwhatgovernmentallthishappened;inwhatyear,andthelike;soI

  satisfymyselfwithtranscribingthematteroffact,andthenleaveitasIfindit。

  Inthisvasttractofmeadowsarefedaprodigiousnumberofblackcattlewhicharesaidtobefedupforthefattestbeef,thoughnotthelargestinEngland;andthequantityissogreat,asthattheynotonlysupplythecityofNorwich,thetownofYarmouth,andcountyadjacent,butsendgreatquantitiesofthemweeklyinallthewinterseasontoLondon。

  Andthisinparticularisworthyremark,thatthegrossofalltheScotscattlewhichcomeyearlyintoEnglandarebroughthither,beingbroughttoasmallvillagelyingnorthofthecityofNorwich,calledSt。Faith\'s,wheretheNorfolkgraziersgoandbuythem。

  TheseScotsrunts,sotheycallthem,comingoutofthecoldandbarrenmountainsoftheHighlandsinScotland,feedsoeagerlyontherichpastureinthesemarshes,thattheythriveinanunusualmanner,andgrowmonstrouslyfat;andthebeefissodeliciousfortaste,thattheinhabitantspreferthemtotheEnglishcattle,whicharemuchlargerandfairertolookat;andtheymayverywelldoso。Somehavetoldme,andIbelievewithgoodjudgment,thatthereareabovefortythousandoftheseScotscattlefedinthiscountyeveryyear,andmostoftheminthesaidmarshesbetweenNorwich,Beccles,andYarmouth。

  Yarmouthisanancienttown,mucholderthanNorwich;andatpresent,thoughnotstandingonsomuchground,yetbetterbuilt;

  muchmorecomplete;fornumberofinhabitants,notmuchinferior;

  andforwealth,trade,andadvantageofitssituation,infinitelysuperiortoNorwich。

  ItisplacedonapeninsulabetweentheRiverYareandthesea;thetwolastlyingparalleltooneanother,andthetowninthemiddle。

  Theriverliesonthewestsideofthetown,andbeinggrownverylargeanddeep,byaconfluxofalltheriversonthissidethecounty,formsthehaven;andthetownfacingtothewestalso,andopentotheriver,makesthefinestquayinEngland,ifnotinEurope,notinferioreventothatofMarseillesitself。

  Theshipsrideheresoclose,and,asitwere,keepinguponeanother,withtheirheadfastsonshore,thatforhalfamiletogethertheygoacrossthestreamwiththeirbowspritsovertheland,theirbows,orheadstouchingtheverywharf;sothatonemaywalkfromshiptoshipasonafloatingbridge,allalongbytheshore-side。Thequayreachingfromthedrawbridgealmosttothesouthgate,issospaciousandwide,thatinsomeplacesitisnearonehundredyardsfromthehousestothewharf。Inthispleasantandagreeablerangeofhousesaresomeverymagnificentbuildings,andamongtherest,theCustomHouseandTownHall,andsomemerchant\'shouses,whichlooklikelittlepalacesratherthanthedwelling-housesofprivatemen。

  Thegreatestdefectofthisbeautifultownseemstobethat,thoughitisveryrichandincreasinginwealthandtrade,andconsequentlyinpeople,thereisnotroomtoenlargethetownbybuilding,whichwouldbecertainlydonemuchmorethanitis,butthattheriveronthelandsideprescribesthem,exceptatthenorthendwithoutthegate;andeventherethelandisnotveryagreeable。Buthadtheyhadalargerspacewithinthegatestherewouldbeforenowhavebeenmanyspaciousstreetsofnoblefinebuildingserected,asweseeisdoneinsomeotherthrivingtownsinEngland,asatLiverpool,Manchester,Bristol,Frome,etc。

  Thequayandtheharbourofthistownduringthefishingfair,astheycallit,whichiseveryMichaelmas,oneseesthelandcoveredwithpeople,andtheriverwithbarquesandboats,busydayandnightlandingandcarryingoftheherrings,whichtheycatchhereinsuchprodigiousquantities,thatitisincredible。Ihappenedtobethereduringtheirfishingfair,whenItoldinonetide110

  barquesandfishingvesselscominguptheriverallladenwithherrings,andalltakenthenightbefore;andthiswasbesideswhatwasbroughtonshoreontheDeanthatistheseasideofthetown

  byopenboats,whichtheycallcobles,andwhichoftenbringintwoorthreelastoffishatatime。Thebarquesoftenbringintenlastapiece。

  ThisfishingfairbeginsonMichaelmasDay,andlastsallthemonthofOctober,bywhichtimetheherringsdrawofftosea,shoottheirspawn,andarenomorefitforthemerchant\'sbusiness-atleast,notthosethataretakenthereabouts。

  Thequantityofherringsthatarecaughtinthisseasonarediverselyaccountedfor。SomehavesaidthatthetownsofYarmouthandLowestoftonlyhavetaken40,000lastinaseason。Iwillnotventuretoconfirmthatreport;butthisIhaveheardthemerchantsthemselvessay,viz。,thattheyhavecured-thatistosay,hangedanddriedinthesmoke-40,000barrelsofmerchantableredherringsinoneseason,whichisinitselfthoughfarshortoftheotheryetaveryconsiderablearticle;anditistobeaddedthatthisisbesidesalltheherringsconsumedinthecountrytownsofboththosepopulouscountiesforthirtymilesfromthesea,whitherverygreatquantitiesarecarriedeverytideduringthewholeseason。

  Butthisisonlyonebranchofthegreattradecarriedoninthistown。Anotherpartofthiscommerceisintheexportingtheseherringsaftertheyarecured;andforthistheirmerchantshaveagreattradetoGenoa,Leghorn,Naples,Messina,andVenice;asalsotoSpainandPortugal,alsoexportingwiththeirherringverygreatquantitiesofworstedstuffs,andstuffsmadeofsilkandworsted,camblets,etc。,themanufacturesoftheneighbouringcityofNorwichandoftheplacesadjacent。

  Besidesthis,theycarryonaveryconsiderabletradewithHolland,whoseoppositeneighbourstheyare;andavastquantityofwoollenmanufacturestheyexporttotheDutcheveryyear。AlsotheyhaveafishingtradetotheNorthSeasforwhitefish,whichfromtheplacearecalledtheNorthSeacod。

  TheyhavealsoaconsiderabletradetoNorwayandtotheBaltic,fromwhencetheybringbackdealsandfirtimber,oakenplank,balks,spars,oars,pitch,tar,hemp,flax,sprucecanvas,andsail-cloth,withallmannerofnavalstores,whichtheygenerallyhaveaconsumptionforintheirownport,wheretheybuildaverygreatnumberofshipseveryyear,besidesrefittingandrepairingtheold。

  AddtothisthecoaltradebetweenNewcastleandtheriverofThames,inwhichtheyaresoimprovedoflateyearsthattheyhavenowagreatershareofitthananyothertowninEngland,andhavequiteworkedtheIpswichmenoutofitwhohadformerlythechiefshareofthecollieryintheirhands。

  Forthecarryingonallthesetradestheymusthaveaverygreatnumberofships,eitheroftheirownoremployedbythem:anditmayinsomemeasurebejudgedofbythisthatintheyear1697,I

  hadanaccountfromthetownregisterthattherewasthen1,123

  sailofshipsusingtheseaandbelongedtothetown,besidessuchshipsasthemerchantsofYarmouthmightbeconcernedin,andbepartownersof,belongingtoanyotherports。

  ToallthisImustadd,withoutcomplimenttothetownortothepeople,thatthemerchants,andeventhegeneralityoftradersofYarmouth,haveaverygoodreputationintradeaswellabroadasathomeformenoffairandhonourabledealing,punctualandjustintheirperformingtheirengagementsandindischargingcommissions;

  andtheirseamen,aswellmastersasmariners,arejustlyesteemedamongtheablestandmostexpertnavigatorsinEngland。

  Thistown,howeverpopulousandlarge,wasevercontainedinoneparish,andhadbutonechurch;butwithinthesetwoyearstheyhavebuiltanotherveryfinechurchnearthesouthendofthetown。

  TheoldchurchisdedicatedtoSt。Nicholas,andwasbuiltbythatfamousBishopofNorwich,WilliamHerbert,whoflourishedinthereignofWilliamII。,andHenryI。,WilliamofMalmesbury,callshimVIRPECUNIOSUS;hemighthavecalledhimVIRPECUNIOSISSIMUS,consideringthetimeshelivedin,andtheworksofcharityandmunificencewhichhehasleftaswitnessesofhisimmenseriches;

  forhebuilttheCathedralChurch,thePrioryforsixtymonks,theBishop\'sPalace,andtheparishchurchofSt。Leonard,allinNorwich;thisgreatchurchatYarmouth,theChurchofSt。MargaretatLynn,andofSt。MaryatElmham。HeremovedtheepiscopalseefromThetfordtoNorwich,andinstitutedtheCluniackMonksatThetford,andgavethemorbuiltthemahouse。Thisoldchurchisverylarge,andhasahighspire,whichisausefulsea-mark。

  Hereisoneofthefinestmarket-placesandthebestservedwithprovisionsinEngland,Londonexcepted;andtheinhabitantsaresomultipliedinafewyearsthattheyseemtowantroomintheirtownratherthanpeopletofillit,asIhaveobservedabove。

  Thestreetsareallexactlystraightfromnorthtosouth,withlanesoralleys,whichtheycallrows,crossingtheminstraightlinesalsofromeasttowest,sothatitisthemostregularbuilttowninEngland,andseemstohavebeenbuiltallatonce;orthatthedimensionsofthehousesandextentofthestreetswerelaidoutbyconsent。

  Theyhaveparticularprivilegesinthistownandajurisdictionbywhichtheycantry,condemn,andexecuteinespecialcaseswithoutwaitingforawarrantfromabove;andthistheyexertedonceverysmartlyinexecutingacaptainofoneoftheking\'sshipsofwarinthereignofKingCharlesII。foramurdercommittedinthestreet,thecircumstanceofwhichdidindeedcallforjustice;butsomethoughttheywouldnothaveventuredtoexerttheirpowersastheydid。However,IneverheardthattheGovernmentresenteditorblamedthemforit。

  Itisalsoaverywell-governedtown,andIhavenowhereinEnglandobservedtheSabbathdaysoexactlykept,orthebreachsocontinuallypunished,asinthisplace,whichInametotheirhonour。

  Amongalltheseregularitiesitisnowonderifwedonotfindabundanceofrevelling,orthatthereislittleencouragementtoassemblies,plays,andgamingmeetingsatYarmouthasinsomeotherplaces;andyetIdonotseethattheladiesherecomebehindanyoftheneighbouringcounties,eitherinbeauty,breeding,orbehaviour;towhichmaybeaddedtoo,notatalltotheirdisadvantage,thattheygenerallygobeyondtheminfortunes。

  FromYarmouthIresolvedtopursuemyfirstdesign,viz。,toviewtheseasideonthiscoast,whichisparticularlyfamousforbeingoneofthemostdangerousandmostfataltothesailorsinallEngland-ImaysayinallBritain-andthemoresobecauseofthegreatnumberofshipswhicharecontinuallygoingandcomingthiswayintheirpassagebetweenLondonandallthenortherncoastsofGreatBritain。Mattersofantiquityarenotmyinquiry,butprincipallyobservationsonthepresentstateofthings,and,ifpossible,togivesuchaccountsofthingsworthyofrecordingashaveneverbeenobservedbefore;andthisleadsmethemoredirectlytomentionthecommerceandthenavigationwhenIcometotownsuponthecoastaswhatfewwritershaveyetmeddledwith。

  Thereasonofthedangersofthisparticularcoastarefoundinthesituationofthecountyandinthecourseofshipssailingthisway,whichIshalldescribeaswellasIcanthus:-TheshorefromthemouthoftheRiverofThamestoYarmouthRoadsliesinastraightlinefromSSE。TONNW。,thelandbeingontheW。orlarboardside。

  FromWintertonness,whichistheutmostnortherlypointoflandinthecountyofNorfolk,andaboutfourmilesbeyondYarmouth,theshorefallsofffornearlysixtymilestothewest,asfarasLynnandBoston,tilltheshoreofLincolnshiretendsnorthagainforaboutsixtymilesmoreasfarastheHumber,whencethecoastofYorkshire,orHolderness,whichistheeastriding,shootsoutagainintothesea,totheSpurnandtoFlamboroughHead,asfareast,almost,astheshoreofNorfolkhadgivenbackatWinterton,makingaverydeepgulforbaybetweenthosetwopointsofWintertonandtheSpurnHead;sothattheshipsgoingnorthareobligedtostretchawaytoseafromWintertonness,andleavingthesightoflandinthatdeepbaywhichIhavementioned,thatreachestoLynnandtheshoreofLincolnshire,theygo,Isay,N。orstillNNW。tomeettheshoreofHolderness,whichIsaidrunsoutintotheseaagainattheSpurn;andthefirstlandtheymakeordesiretomake,iscalledasabove,FlamboroughHead,sothatWintertonnessandFlamboroughHeadarethetwoextremesofthiscourse,thereis,asIsaid,theSpurnHeadindeedbetween;butasitliestoofarintowardstheHumber,theykeepouttothenorthtoavoidcomingnearit。

  Inlikemannertheshipswhichcomefromthenorth,leavetheshoreatFlamboroughHead,andstretchawaySSE。forYarmouthRoads;andtheyfirstlandtheymakeisWintertonnessasabove。Now,thedangeroftheplaceisthis:iftheshipscomingfromthenortharetakenwithahardgaleofwindfromtheSE。,orfromanypointbetweenNE。andSE。,sothattheycannot,astheseamencallit,weatherWintertonness,theyaretherebykeptwithinthatdeepbay;

  andifthewindblowshard,areoftenindangerofrunningonshoreupontherocksaboutCromer,onthenorthcoastofNorfolk,orstrandingupontheflatshorebetweenCromerandWells;alltherelieftheyhave,isgoodgroundtackletorideitout,whichisveryhardtodothere,theseacomingveryhighuponthem;oriftheycannotrideitoutthen,torunintothebottomofthegreatbayImentioned,toLynnorBoston,whichisaverydifficultanddesperatepush:sothatsometimesinthisdistresswholefleetshavebeenlostherealtogether。

  Thelikeisthedangertoshipsgoingnorthward,ifafterpassingbyWintertontheyaretakenshortwithanorth-eastwind,andcannotputbackintotheRoads,whichveryoftenhappens,thentheyaredrivenuponthesamecoast,andembayedjustasthelatter。

  Thedangeronthenorthpartofthisbayisnotthesame,becauseifshipsgoingorcomingshouldbetakenshortonthissideFlamborough,thereistheriverHumberopentothem,andseveralgoodroadstohaverecourseto,asBurlingtonBay,GrimsbyRoad,andtheSpurnHead,andothers,wheretheyrideundershelter。

  Thedangersofthisplacebeingthusconsidered,itisnowonder,thatupontheshorebeyondYarmouththerearenolessthanfourlighthouseskeptflamingeverynight,besidesthelightsatCastor,northofthetown,andatGoulstonS。,allofwhicharetodirectthesailorstokeepagoodoffingincaseofbadweather,andtopreventtheirrunningintoCromerBay,whichtheseamencallthedevil\'sthroat。

  AsIwentbylandfromYarmouthnorthward,alongtheshoretowardsCromeraforesaid,andwasnotthenfullymasterofthereasonofthesethings,Iwassurprisedtosee,inallthewayfromWinterton,thatthefarmersandcountrypeoplehadscarceabarn,orashed,orastable,nay,notthepalesoftheiryardsandgardens,notahogstye,notanecessaryhouse,butwhatwasbuiltofoldplanks,beams,wales,andtimbers,etc。,thewrecksofships,andruinsofmariners\'andmerchants\'fortunes;andinsomeplaceswerewholeyardsfilledandpiledupveryhighwiththesamestufflaidup,asIsupposedtosellforthelikebuildingpurposes,asthereshouldheoccasion。

  Abouttheyear1692IthinkitwasthatyeartherewasamelancholyexampleofwhatIhavesaidofthisplace:afleetof200sailoflightcollierssotheycalltheshipsboundnorthwardemptytofetchcoalsfromNewcastletoLondonwentoutofYarmouthRoadswithafairwind,topursuetheirvoyage,andweretakenshortwithastormofwindatNE。aftertheywerepastWintertonness,afewleagues;someofthem,whosemasterswerealittlemorewarythantherest,orperhaps,whomadeabetterjudgmentofthings,orwhowerenotsofaroutastherest,tacked,andputbackintime,andgotsafeintotheroads;buttherestpushingoninhopestokeepouttosea,andweatherit,werebytheviolenceofthestormdrivenback,whentheyweretoofarembayedtoweatherWintertonnessasabove,andsowereforcedtorunwest,everyoneshiftingforthemselvesaswellastheycould;somerunawayforLynnDeeps,butfewofthemthenightbeingsodark

  couldfindtheirwayinthere;some,butveryfew,rodeitoutatadistance;therest,beingabove140sail,werealldrivenonshoreanddashedtopieces,andveryfewofthepeopleonboardweresaved:attheverysameunhappyjuncture,afleetofladenshipswerecomingfromthenorth,andbeingjustcrossingthesamebay,wereforciblydrivenintoit,notabletoweathertheNess,andsowereinvolvedinthesameruinasthelightfleetwas;alsosomecoastingvesselsladenwithcornfromLynnandWells,andboundforHolland,werewiththesameunhappyluckjustcomeouttobegintheirvoyage,andsomeofthemlayatanchor;thesealsometwiththesamemisfortune,sothat,inthewhole,above200sailofships,andaboveathousandpeople,perishedinthedisasterofthatonemiserablenight,veryfewescaping。

  Cromerisamarkettownclosetotheshoreofthisdangerouscoast。

  Iknownothingitisfamousforbesidesitbeingthustheterrorofthesailorsexceptgoodlobsters,whicharetakenonthatcoastingreatnumbersandcarriedtoNorwich,andinsuchquantitiessometimestooastobeconveyedbyseatoLondon。

  Fartherwithintheland,andbetweenthisplaceandNorwich,areseveralgoodmarkettowns,andinnumerablevillages,alldiligentlyapplyingtothewoollenmanufacture,andthecountryisexceedinglyfruitfulandfertile,aswellincornasinpastures;particularly,whichwasverypleasanttosee,thepheasantswereinsuchgreatplentyastobeseeninthestubbleslikecocksandhens-atestimonythough,bytheway,thatthecountyhadmoretradesmenthangentlemeninit;indeed,thispartissoentirelygivenuptoindustry,thatwhatwiththeseafaringmenontheoneside,andthemanufacturesontheother,wesawnoidlehandshere,buteverymanbusyonthemainaffairoflife,thatistosay,gettingmoney;

  someoftheprincipalofthesetownsare:-Alsham,NorthWalsham,SouthWalsham,Worsted,Caston,Reepham,Holt,Saxthorp,St。

  Faith\'s,Blikling,andmanyothers。Nearthelast,SirJohnHobart,ofanancientfamilyinthiscounty,hasanobleseat,butoldbuilt。ThisisthatSt。Faith\'s,wherethedroversbringtheirblackcattletoselltotheNorfolkgraziers,asisobservedabove。

  FromCromerwerideonthestrandoropenshoretoWeyburnHope,theshoresoflatthatinsomeplacesthetideebbsoutneartwomiles。FromWeyburnwestliesClye,wheretherearelargesalt-

  worksandverygoodsaltmade,whichissoldalloverthecounty,andsometimessenttoHollandandtotheBaltic。FromClyewegotoMashamandtoWells,alltownsonthecoast,ineachwhereofthereisaveryconsiderabletradecarriedonwithHollandforcorn,whichthatpartofthecountyisveryfullof。IsaynothingofthegreattradedrivenherefromHolland,backagaintoEngland,becauseItakeittobeatradecarriedonwithmuchlesshonestythanadvantage,especiallywhiletheclandestinetrade,ortheartofsmugglingwassomuchinpractice:whatitisnow,isnottomypresentpurpose。

  NearthistownlieTheSevenBurnhams,astheyarecalled,thatistosay,sevensmalltowns,allcalledbythesamename,andeachemployedinthesametradeofcarryingcorntoHolland,andbringingback,-etc。

  Fromhenceweturntothesouth-westtoCastleRising,anolddecayedboroughtown,withperhapsnottenfamiliesinit,whichyettothescandalofourprescriptionrightsendstwomemberstotheBritishParliament,beingasmanyastheCityofNorwichitselforanytowninthekingdom,Londonexcepted,cando。

  OnourleftweseeWalsingham,anancienttown,famousfortheoldruinsofamonasteryofnotethere,andtheShrineofourLady,asnotedasthatofSt。Thomas-e-BecketatCanterbury,andforlittleelse。

  NearthisplacearetheseatsofthetwoalliedfamiliesoftheLordViscountTownsendandRobertWalpole,Esq。;thelatteratthistimeoneoftheLordsCommissionersoftheTreasuryandMinisterofState,andtheformeroneoftheprincipalSecretariesofStatetoKingGeorge,ofwhichagain。

  FromhencewewenttoLynn,anotherrichandpopulousthrivingport-town。ItstandsonmoregroundthanthetownofYarmouth,andhas,Ithink,parishes,yetIcannotallowthatithasmorepeoplethanYarmouth,ifsomany。Itisabeautiful,wellbuilt,andwellsituatedtown,atthemouthoftheRiverOuse,andhasthisparticularattendingit,whichgivesitavastadvantageintrade;

  namely,thatthereisthegreatestextentofinlandnavigationhereofanyportinEngland,Londonexcepted。Thereasonwhereofisthis,thattherearemorenavigableriversemptythemselveshereintothesea,includingthewashes,whicharebranchesofthesameport,thanatanyonemouthofwatersinEngland,excepttheThamesandtheHumber。Bythesenavigablerivers,themerchantsofLynnsupplyaboutsixcountieswholly,andthreecountiesinpart,withtheirgoods,especiallywineandcoals,viz。,bythelittleOuse,theysendtheirgoodstoBrandonandThetford,bytheLaketoMildenhall,BartonMills,andSt。Edmundsbury;bytheRiverGranttoCambridge,bythegreatOuseitselftoEly,toSt。Ives,toSt。

  Neots,toBarfordBridge,andtoBedford;bytheRiverNynetoPeterborough;bythedrainsandwashestoWisbeach,toSpalding,MarketDeeping,andStamford;besidestheseveralcounties,intowhichthesegoodsarecarriedbyland-carriage,fromtheplaces,wherethenavigationofthoseriversend;whichhasgivenrisetothisobservationonthetownofLynn,thattheybringinmorecoalsthananysea-portbetweenLondonandNewcastle;andimportmorewinesthananyportinEngland,exceptLondonandBristol;theirtradetoNorwayandtotheBalticSeaisalsogreatinproportion,andoflateyearstheyhaveextendedtheirtradefarthertothesouthward。

  Herearemoregentry,andconsequentlyismoregaietyinthistownthaninYarmouth,oreveninNorwichitself-theplaceaboundinginverygoodcompany。

  Thesituationofthistownrendersitcapableofbeingmadeverystrong,andinthelatewarsitwasso;alineoffortificationbeingdrawnrounditatadistancefromthewalls;theruins,orratherremainsofwhichworksappearveryfairtothisday;norwoulditbeahardmattertorestorethebastions,withtheravelins,andcounterscarp,uponanysuddenemergency,toagoodstateofdefence:andthatinalittletime,asufficientnumberofworkmenbeingemployed,especiallybecausetheyareabletofillalltheirditcheswithwaterfromthesea,insuchamannerasthatitcannotbedrawnoff。

  Thereisinthemarket-placeofthistownaveryfinestatueofKingWilliamonhorseback,erectedatthechargeofthetown。TheOuseismightylargeanddeep,closetotheverytownitself,andshipsofgoodburthenmaycomeuptothequay;butthereisnobridge,thestreambeingtoostrongandthebottommoorishandunsound;nor,forthesamereason,istheanchoragecomputedthebestintheworld;buttherearegoodroadsfartherdown。

  Theypassoverhereinboatsintothefencountry,andoverthefamouswashesintoLincolnshire,butthepassageisverydangerousanduneasy,andwherepassengersoftenmiscarryandarelost;butthenitisusuallyontheirventuringatimpropertimes,andwithouttheguides,whichiftheywouldbepersuadednottodo,theywouldveryrarelyfailofgoingorcomingsafe。

  FromLynnIbentmycoursetoDownham,whereisanuglywoodenbridgeovertheOuse;fromwhencewepassedthefencountrytoWisbeach,butsawnothingthatwaytotemptourcuriositybutdeeproads,innumerabledrainsanddykesofwater,allnavigable,andarichsoil,thelandbearingavastquantityofgoodhemp,butabaseunwholesomeair;sowecamebacktoEly,whosecathedral,standinginalevelflatcountry,isseenfarandwide,andofwhichtown,whentheminster,sotheycallit,isdescribed,everythingremarkableissaidthatthereisroomtosay。Andoftheminster,thisisthemostremarkablethingthatIcouldhearit,namely,thatsomeofitissoancient,totterssomuchwitheverygustofwind,lookssolikeadecay,andseemssonearit,thatwheneveritdoesfall,allthatitislikelywillbethoughtstrangeinitwillbethatitdidnotfallahundredyearssooner。

  FromhencewecameovertheOuse,andinafewmilestoNewmarket。

  Inourway,nearSnaybell,wesawanobleseatofthelateAdmiralRussell,nowEarlofOrford,anamemadefamousbythegloriousvictoryobtainedunderhiscommandovertheFrenchfleetandtheburningtheirshipsatLaHogue-avictoryequalingloryto,andinfinitelymoreglorioustotheEnglishnationinparticular,thanthatatBlenheim,and,aboveall,moretotheparticularadvantageoftheconfederacy,becauseitsobroketheheartofthenavalpowerofFrancethattheyhavenotfullyrecoveredittothisday。

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