第2章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"Angling Sketches",免费读到尾

  TheCaptainwaslyingdead,withouthisclothes,onthebed;onemanwasdiscoveredatadistance,anotherneartheCaptain。Thenitwasrememberedthat,atthesamebothyamonthbefore,ashepherdladhadinquiredfortheCaptain,hadwalkedwithhimforsometime,andthat,ontheofficer\'sreturn,\"amysteriousanxietyhungabouthim。\"Afirehadalsobeenseenblazingonanoppositeheight,andwhensomeofthegillieswenttothespot,\"therewasnofiretobeseen。\"Onthedaywhentheexpeditionhadstarted,theCaptainwaswarnedoftheillweather,buthesaid\"heMUST

  go。\"Hewasanunpopularman,andwasaccusedofgettingmoneybyprocuringrecruitsfromtheHighlands,oftenbycruelmeans。\"Ourinformertoldusnothingmore;heneithertoldushisownopinion,northatofthecountry,butleftittoourownnotionsofthemannerinwhichgoodandevilisrewardedinthislifetosuggesttheauthorofthemiserableevent。Heseemedimpressedwithsuperstitiousaweonthesubject,andsaid,\'Therewasnathelikeseenina\'Scotland。\'ThemanisfaradvancedinyearsandisaschoolmasterintheneighbourhoodofRannoch。\"

  SirWaltersaysthat\"thefeelingofsuperstitiousaweannexedtothecatastrophecouldnothavebeenimprovedbyanycircumstancesofadditionalhorrorwhichapoetcouldhaveinvented。Butistherenotsomethingmoremovingstillintheboatman\'sversion:

  \"theywereneverseenagain……theywerenotfoundindeedtillthisday\"?

  Thefolklorist,ofcourse,iseagertoknowwhethertheboatman\'smuchmorecompleteandconnectednarrativeisapopularmythicaldevelopmentintheyearsbetween1820and1890,orwhethertheschoolmasterofRannochdidnottellallheknew。Itisunlikely,Ithink,thatthesiegeofSeringapatamwouldhavebeenrememberedsolonginconnectionwiththeBlackOfficerifithadnotformedpartofhisoriginallegend。MeanwhiletheearliestprintednoticeoftheeventwithwhichIamacquainted,anoticeonlytenyearslaterthanthedateoftheMajor\'sdeathin1799,isgivenbyHoggin\"TheSpy,\"1810-11,pp。101-3。Iofferanabridgmentofthenarrative。

  \"AbouttheendoflastcenturyMajorMacphersonandapartyoffriendswentouttohuntontheGrampiansbetweenAtholeandBadenoch。Theywerehighlysuccessful,andintheafternoontheywentintoalittlebothy,and,havingmeatanddrink,theyabandonedthemselvestojollity。

  \"Duringtheirmerry-makingayoungmanenteredwhoseappearanceparticularlystruckandsomewhatshockedMacpherson;thestrangerbeckonedtotheMajor,andhefollowedhiminstantlyoutofthebothy。

  \"Whentheyparted,afterapparentlyhavinghadsomeearnestconversation,thestrangerwasoutofsightlongbeforetheMajorwashalf-wayback,thoughonlytwentyyardsaway。

  \"TheMajorshowedonhisreturnsuchevidentmarksoftrepidationthatthemirthwasmarredandnoonecaredtoaskhimquestions。

  \"Thiswasearlyintheweek,andonFridaytheMajorpersuadedhisfriendstomakeasecondexpeditiontothemountains,fromwhichtheyneverreturned。

  \"Onasearchbeingmadetheirdeadbodieswerefoundinthebothy,someconsiderablymangled,butsomewerenotmarkedbyanywound。

  \"Itwasvisiblethatthishadnotbeeneffectedbyhumanagency:

  thebothywastornfromitsfoundationsandscarcelyavestigeleftofit,andonehugestone,whichtwelvemencouldnothaveraised,wastossedtoaconsiderabledistance。

  \"OnthiseventScott\'sbeautifulballadof\"Glenfinlas\"issaidtohavebeenfounded。\"

  Aswillbeseenpresently,Hoggwaswrongabout\"Glenfinlas\";theboatmanwasacquaintedwithatraditionalversionofthatwildlegend。IfoundanotheratRannoch。

  TheHighlandfairiesareveryvampirish。TheLochAweboatmanlivesataspothauntedbyashadowymaiden。Herlastappearancewasaboutthirtyyearsago。Twoyoungmenwerethrashingcornonemorning,whenthejointoftheflailbroke。TheownerwenttoLarichbanandenteredanouthousetolookforapieceofsheepskinwherewithtomendtheflail。Hewaslongabsent,andhiscompanionwentafterhim。Hefoundhimstrugglinginthearmsofaghostlymaid,whohadnearlymurderedhim,butdepartedonthearrivalofhisfriend。Itisnoteasytomakeoutwhattheseghoulishwomenare——notfairiesexactly,norwitches,norvampires。Forexample,threeshepherdsatalonelysheilingwerediscoursingoftheirloves,anditwas,\"Oh,howhappyIshouldbeifKatiewerehere,orMaggie,orBessie!\"asthecasemightbe。Sotheywouldsayandsotheywouldwish,andlo!oneevening,thethreegirlscametothedoorofthehut。Sotheymadethemwelcome;butoneoftheshepherdswasplayingtheJew\'s-harp,andhedidnotliketheturnmattersweretaking。

  Thetwoothersstoleoffintocornersofthedarklinghutwiththeirlovers,butthisprudentladnevertookhislipsofftheJew\'s-harp。

  \"Harpingisgoodifnoillfollowsit,\"saidthesemblanceofhissweetheart;butheneveranswered。Heplayedandthrummed,andoutofonedarkcornertrickledredbloodintothefire-light,andoutofanothercornercameacurrentofbloodtomeetit。Thenheslowlyrose,stillharping,andbackedhiswaytothedoor,andfledintothehillsfromthesecruelairyshapesoffalsedesire。

  \"Anddothepeopleactuallybelieveallthat?\"

  \"Ay,dothey!\"

  Thatistheboatman\'sversionofScott\'sthemein\"Glenfinlas。\"

  Witchesplayedagreatpartinhisnarratives。

  Intheboatman\'scountrythereisaplain,andontheplainisaknoll,abouttwicetheheightofaone-storeyedcottage,andpointed\"likeasugar-loaf。\"Theoldpeopleremember,orhaveheard,thatthismoundwasnottherewhentheywereyoung。Itswelledupsuddenlyoutofthegraveofawitchwhowasburiedthere。

  Thewitchwasagreatenemyofashepherd。Everymorningshewouldputontheshapeofahare,andrunbeforehisdogs,andleadthemawayfromthesheep。Heknewitwasrighttoshootatherwithacrookedsixpence,andhehitheronthehindleg,andthedogswereafterher,andchasedthehareintotheoldwoman\'scottage。Theshepherdranafterthem,andtherehefoundthem,tearingattheoldwoman;buttheharewastwistedroundtheirnecks,andshewascrying,\"Tighten,hare,tighten!\"anditwaschokingthem。Sohetorethehareoffthedogs;andthentheoldwomanbeggedhimtosaveherfromthem,andshepromisednevertoplaguehimagain。

  \"Butiftheolddog\'steethhadbeenassharpastheyoungone\'s,shewouldhavebeenadeadwoman。\"

  Whenthiswitchdiedsheknewshecouldneverlieinsafetyinhergrave;buttherewasaverysafechurchyardinAberdeenshire,ahundredandfiftymilesaway,andifshecouldgetintothatshewouldbeatrest。Andsheroseoutofhergrave,andoffshewent,andtheDevilafterher,onablackhorse;but,praisetotheswiftnessofherfeet,shewonthechurchyardbeforehim。Herfirstgraveswelledup,oh,ashighasthatgreenhillock!

  Witchesarestillinactivepractice。Therewasanoldwomanverymiserly。Shewouldalwaybetakingoneofherneighbours\'sheepfromthehills,andtheystooditforlong;theydidnotliketomeddlewithher。Atlastitgrewsobadthattheybroughtherbeforethesheriff,andshegoteighteenmonthsinprison。Whenshecameoutshewasveryangry,andsetaboutmakinganimageofthewomanwhosesheepshehadtaken。Whentheimagewasmadesheburneditandputtheashesinaburn。Anditisaverycuriousthing,butthewomanshemadeitonfellintoadecline,andtooktoherbed。

  ThewitchandherfamilywenttoAmerica。Theykeptalittleinn,inacountryplace,andpeoplewhosleptinitdidnotcomeoutagain。Theywerediscovered,andtheeldestsonwashanged;heconfessedthathehadcommittednineteenmurdersbeforeheleftScotland。

  \"Theywerenotanicefamily。\"

  \"Thefatherwasaveryrespectableoldman。\"

  Theboatmangavemethenameofthiswickedhousehold,butitisperhapsbetterforgotten。

  TheextraordinarythingisthatthisappearstobetheHighlandintroductionto,orpartfirstof,agloomyandsanguinarystoryofamurderhole——aninnofassassinsinalonelydistrictoftheUnitedStates,whichMr。LouisStevensonheardinhistravelsthere,andtoldtomesomeyearsago。Thedetailshaveescapedmymemory,but,asMr。Stevensonnarratedthem,theyrivalledDeQuincey\'sawfulstoryofWilliams\'smurdersintheRatcliffeHighway。

  LifemuststillbehauntedinBadenoch,asitwasonIda\'shill,byformsofunearthlybeauty,thegoddessortheghostyetwooingtheshepherd;indeed,theboatmantoldmemanystoriesoflivingsuperstitionandterrorsofthenight;butwhyshouldIexhausthiswallet?Tobesure,itseemedveryfulloftales;theseofferedheremaybebutthelegendswhichcamefirsttohishand。Theboatmanisnothimselfabelieverinthefairyworld,ornotmorethanallsensiblemenoughttobe。Thesupernaturalistoopleasantathingforustodiscardinanearnest,scientificmannerlikeMr。Kipling\'sAurelianMcGubben。PerhapsIammoresuperstitiousthantheboatman,andtheyarnsIswoppedwithhimaboutghostsIhavemetwouldseemevenmoremendacioustopossessorsofpocketmicroscopesandofthemodernspirit。ButI

  wouldratherhaveonebansheestorythanfifteenpagesofproofthat\"life,whichbeganasacell,withac,istoendasasell,withans。\"Itshouldbeaddedthattheboatmanhasgivenhisconsenttotheprintingofhisyarns。Onbeingofferedamoietyoftheprofits,heobservedthathehadnoobjectiontothese,butthatheentirelydeclinedtoberesponsibleforanyshareoftheexpenses。Wouldthatallauthorswereassagacious,forthentheamateurnovelistandtheminorpoetwouldvexusnomore。

  PerhapsIshouldnotethatIhavenotmadetheboatmansay\"whateffer,\"becausehedoesn\'t。TheoccasionaluseoftheimperfectisalmosthisonlyGaelicidiom。Itisagreatcomfortandpleasure,whenthetroutdonotrise,tomeetaskilledandunaffectednarratoroftheoldbeliefs,oldlegends,asancientasthehillsthatgirdleandguardtheloch,orasantique,atleast,asman\'sdwellingamongthemountains——theYellowHill,theCalfHill,theHilloftheStack。Thebeautyofthescene,thepleasanttalk,thedaffodilsonthegreenisleamongtheCelticgraves,compensateforacertain\"dourness\"amongthefishesofLochAwe。

  Ontheoccasionswhentheyarenotdourtheyriseverypleasantandfree,but,inthesebriefmoments,itisnotoflegendsandfolklorethatyouarethinking,butofthelanding-net。Theboatman,bytheway,waseithernotwellacquaintedwithMarchen——

  Celticnursery-talessuchasCampbellofIslaycollected,orwasnotmuchinterestedinthem,or,perhaps,hadtheshynessaboutnarratingthisparticularsortofoldwives\'fableswhichissocommon。PeoplewhodoknowthemseldomtelltheminSassenach。

  LOCH-FISHING

  LITTLELOCHBEG

  Thereissomethingmysteriousinloch-fishing,inthetastesandhabitsofthefishwhichinhabittheinnumerablelakesandtarnsofScotland。Itisnotalwayseasytoaccounteitherfortheirpresenceortheirabsence,fortheirnumbersorscarcity,theireagernesstotakeortheir\"dourness。\"Forexample,thereisLochBorlan,closetothewell-knownlittleinnofAlt-na-geal-gachinSutherland。Unlessthatpieceofwaterisgreatlychanged,itissimplyfulloffishofaboutaquarterofapound,whichwillriseatalmostanytimetoalmostanyfly。Thereisnotmuchpleasureincatchingsuchtinyandeagertrout,butintheseasoncomplacentanglerscaptureandboastoftheirmanydozens。Ontheotherhand,ayearortwoago,abeginnertookafour-poundtrouttherewiththefly。IfsuchtroutexistinBorlan,itishardtoexplainthepresenceoftheinnumerablefry。Onewouldexpectthegiantsofthedeeptokeepdowntheirpopulation。Notfaroffisanothersmalllake,LochAwe,whichhasinvisibleadvantagesoverLochBorlan,yettherethetroutare,orwere,\"fatandfairofflesh,\"

  likeTamlaneintheballad。WhereforearethetroutinLochTummellsobigandstrong,fromonetofivepounds,andsoscarce,whilethoseinLochAwearenumerousandsmall?Oneoccasionallyseesexamplesofhowquicklytroutwillincreaseinweight,andwhatcurioushabitstheywilladopt。Inacountyofsouth-westernScotlandthereisalargevillage,populatedbyakeenlydevotedsetofanglers,whomissnoopportunity。Withinaquarterofamileofthevillageisasmalltarn,verypicturesquelysituatedamonglowhills,andprovidedwiththeverytiniestfeederandoutflow。Thereisasluiceattheoutflow,and,forsomereason,thefarmerusedtoletmostofthewaterout,inthesummerofeveryyear。Inwinterthetarnisusedbythecurlingclub。Itisnotdeep,hasratheramarshybottom,andmanyducks,snipe,andwild-fowlgenerallydwellamongthereedsandmarishplantsofitssides。Nobodyeverdreamedoffishinghere,butonedayarustic,\"glowering\"idlyoverthewalloftheadjacentroad,sawfishrising。Hementionedhisdiscoverytoanangler,whoissaidtohavecaughtsomelargetrout,buttraditionvariesabouteverything,exceptthatthefisharevery\"dour。\"OneeveninginAugust,awarm,stillevening,Ihappenedtovisitthetarn。Assoonasthesunfellbelowthehills,itwasliterallyalivewithlargetroutrising。Asfarasonecouldestimatefromthebriefviewofheadsandshoulders,theyweresometimestwoorthreepoundsinweight。Igotmyrod,ofcourse,asdidaruralfriend。

  Minewasasmallcanerod,hisasalmon-rod。IfishedwithoneTest-fly;hewiththreelargeloch-flies。Thefishwererisingactuallyatourfeet,buttheyseemedtomoveaboutverymuch,never,orseldom,risingtwiceexactlyatthesameplace。Thehypothesiswasstartedthattherewerebutfewofthem,andthattheyranroundandround,likeastagearmy,togiveanappearanceofmultitude。Butthisappearsimprobable。Whatiscertainwasourutterinabilityevertogetarisefromtheprovokingcreatures。Thedryflyisdifficulttouseonaloch,asthereisnostreamtomoveit,andhowevergentlyyoudrawititmakesa\"wake\"——atrailbehindit。Wetordry,or\"twixtwetanddry,\"

  liketheconvivialpersoninthesong,wecouldnoneofusraisethem。Ididcatchasmallbutbeautifullyproportionedandpink-

  fleshedtroutwiththealder,buteverythingelse,silversedgeandall,everythingfrommidgetoMay-fly,inthelatetwilight,wasofferedtotheminvain。Inwindyorcloudyweatheritwasjustasuseless;indeed,Ineversawthemrise,exceptinawarmsummerstillness,atandaftersunset。Probablytheywouldhavetakenasmallredworm,pitchedintotherippleofarise;butwedidnottrythat。Afterafewevenings,theyseemedtogiveuprisingaltogether。Idon\'tfeelcertainthattheyhadnotbeennetted:

  yetnotroutseemedtobeonsaleinthevillage。Theirpresenceinthewatermayperhapsbeaccountedforthus:theymayhavecomeintothelochfromtheriver,bywayofthetinyfeeder;buttheriver-troutarebothscarceandsmall。Anewfarmerhadgivenuplettingthewateroff,andprobablytheremusthavebeenveryrichfeeding,water-shrimpsorsnails,whichmightpartlyaccountfortherefusaltoriseattheartificialfly。Ortheymayhavebeenotteredbythevillagers,thoughthatwouldratherhavemadethemriseshortthannotriseatall。

  Thereisanotherlochonanextremelyremotehillside,eightmilesfromthesmallesttown,inapastoralcountry。Therearetroutenoughintheloch,andofexcellentsizeandflavour,butyouscarcelyevergetthem。Theyrisefreely,buttheyALWAYSriseshort。Itis,Ithink,themostprovokinglochIeverfished。Youraisethem;theycomeupfreely,showingbroadsidesofaruddygold,likethehandsomestTesttrout,buttheyalmostinvariablymissthehook。Youdonotlandoneoutoftwenty。Thereasonis,apparently,thatpeoplefromthenearesttownusetheotterinthesummerevenings,whenthesetroutrisebest。InaSutherlandloch,Mr。EdwardMosstellsusin\"ASeasoninSutherland\",thatheoncefoundanelegantotter,awell-madeengineofsomeunscrupuloustourist,lyinginthebottomofthewateronasunnyday。AtLochSkene,onthetopofahill,twentymilesfromanytown,ottersareoccasionallyfoundbythekeeperortheshepherds,concealedneartheshore。Thepracticeofotteringcangivelittlepleasuretoanybutadepravedmind,andnothingeducatestroutsorapidlyinto\"risingshort\";whytheyarenottobehadwhentheyarerisingmostvehemently,\"tothemselves,\"isanothermystery。A

  fewrisesareencouraging,butwhenthewaterisallsplashingwithrises,asaruletheanglerisonlytantalised。Awindyday,adaywithalargeripple,butwithoutwhitewavesbreaking,is,asarule,bestforaloch。Insomelochsthesea-troutprefersuchahurricanethataboatcanhardlybekeptonthewater。Ihaveknownastrongnorthwindinautumnputdownthesea-trout,whereasthesalmonrose,withunusualeagerness,justintheshallowswherethewavesbrokeinfoamontheshore。ThebestdayIeverhadwithsea-troutwasmuggyandgrey,andthefishweremosteagerwhenthewaterwasstill,exceptforatremendouslyheavyshowerofrain,\"asingingshower,\"asGeorgeChapmanhasit。Onthatdaytworodscaughtthirty-ninesea-trout,weighingfortypounds。Butitisdifficulttosaybeforehandwhatdaywilldowell,exceptthatsunshineisbad,anorthwindworse,andnowindatallusuallymeansanemptybasket。Eventothisrulethereareexceptions,andoneoftheseisinthecaseofatarnwhichIshallcall,pleonastically,LittleLochBeg。

  Thisisnottherealnameoftheloch——quiteenoughpeopleknowitsrealnamealready。Nordoesitseemnecessarytomentionthedistrictwherethelochlieshidden;sufficeittosaythatalandofmorestreamsandscarcertroutyouwillhardlyfind。Wehadtriedalltheriversandburnstonopurpose,andthelochsarecapriciousandoverfished。Onelochwehadnottried,LochBeg。

  Youwalk,ordrive,afewmilesfromanyvillage,thenyouclimbafewhundredyardsofhill,andfromtheridgeyousee,ononehandagreatamphitheatreofgreenandpurplemountain-sides,inthewest;ontheeast,withinahundredyardsunderaslope,isLochBeg。Itisnotamileincircumference,andallbutsomeeightyyardsofshoreisdefendedagainsttheanglerbywidebedsofwater-lilies,withtheirprettywhitefloatinglamps,orbytallsedgesandreeds。Noristhewadingeasy。Fourstepsyoumakewithsafety,atthefifthyourforemostlegsinksinmudapparentlybottomless。Mostpeoplefishonlytheeasternside,whereofafewscoreyardsareopen,witharockyandgravellybottom。

  Now,alllochshavetheirhumours。Insometroutlikeabigfly,insomeasmallone,butalmostalldobestwitharoughwindorrain。IknewenoughofLochBegtoapproachitatnoononablazingdayofsunshine,whenthesurfacewaslikeglass。ItwaslikethatwhenfirstIsawit,andashepherdwarnedusthatwe\"woulddaenaething\";wedidlittle,indeed,butIrosenearlyeveryrisingfishIcastover,losingthemall,too,andinsomecasesbeingbroken,asIwasusingveryfinegut,andthefishwereheavy。Anothertrialseemeddesirable,andthenumberofrisingtroutwasmosttempting。Alloverittroutwererisingtothenaturalfly,withbigcircleslikethoseyouseeintheTestattwilight;whileinthecentre,wherenoartificialflycanbecastforwantofaboat,abigfishwouldthrowhimselfoutofthewaterinhiseagerness。OnesuchIsawwhichcouldnothaveweighedunderthreepounds,ashort,thick,dark-yellowfish。

  Iwasusingalighttwo-handedrod,andfanciedthatasingleTest-

  flyonveryfinetacklewouldbethebestlure。Itcertainlyrosethetrout,ifonethrewintothecircletheymade;buttheyneverwerehooked。Onefishofaboutapoundandahalfthrewhimselfoutofthewateratit,hitit,andbrokethefinetackle。SoI

  wentonraisingthem,butnevergettingthem。Aslongasthesunblazedandnobreezeruffledthewater,theyrosebravely,butacloudorevenarippleseemedtosendthemdown。

  AtlastItriedabigalder,andwiththatIactuallytouchedafew,andevenlandedseveralontheshelvingbank。Theiraverageweight,asweprovedonseveraloccasions,wasexactlythree-

  quartersofapound;butweneversucceededinlandinganyofthereallybigones。

  Alocalanglertoldmehehadcaughtoneoftwopounds,andlostanother\"likeayounggrilse,\"afterhehaddrawnitontothebank。Icaneasilybelieveit,forinnoloch,butone,haveI

  everseensomanyreallybigandhandsomefishfeeding。LochBegiswithinamileofalargerandfamousloch,butitisinfinitelybetter,thoughtheotherlooksmuchmorefavourableinallwaysforsport。Theonlyplacewherefishingiseasy,asIhavesaid,isamerestripofcoastunderthehill,wherethereissomegravel,andthemouthofaverytinyfeeder,usuallydry。Offthisplacethetroutrosefreely,butnotnearsofreelyasinacertaincorner,quiteoutofreachwithoutaboat,wheretheleviathanslivedandsported。

  Afterthelittleexpanseofopenshorehadbeenfishedoverafewtimes,thetroutthereseemedtogrowmoreshy,andtherewasacertainmonotonyinwalkingthistinyquarter-deckofspace。SoI

  wentroundtothewestside,wherethewater-liliesare。Fishwererisingaboutthreeyardsbeyondtheweedybeds,andIfoolishlythoughtIwouldtryforthem。Now,youcannotoverestimatethedifficultyofcastingaflyacrossyardsofwater-lilies。Youcatchintheweedsasyouliftyourlineforafreshcast,andthenyouhavetoextricateitlaboriously,shorteningline,andthentoletitoutagain,andprobablycometogriefoncemore。

  Isawatroutrise,withahugesullencircledimplingroundhim,castoverhim,raisedhim,andmissedhim。Thewaterwasperfectlystill,andthe\"plop\"madebythesefishwasveryexcitingandtantalising。Thenextthatrosetookthealder,and,ofcourse,ranrightintothebroadbandoflilies。ItriedallthedodgesI

  couldthinkof,andallthatMr。Halfordsuggests。Idraggedathimhard。Igavehimline。Isatdownandendeavouredtodisengagemythoughts,butInevergotaglimpseofhim,andfinallyhadtowadeasfarinasIdared,andsaveasmuchofthecastinglineasIcould;itwasverylittle。

  Therewasonethingtobesaidforthetroutonthisside:theymeantbusiness。Theydidnotriseshyly,liketheothers,butwentfortheflyifitcameatallnearthem,andthen,downtheyrushed,andboltedintothelily-roots。

  Anewplanoccurredtome。IputonabouteighteeninchesofthestoutestgutIhad,totheendIknottedthebiggestsea-troutflyIpossessed,and,hookingthenextfishthatrose,Iturnedmybackonthelochandranuphillwiththerod。LookingbackIsawatroutwelloverapoundflyingacrossthelilies;butalas!theholdwasnotstrongenough,andhefellback。AgainandagainI

  triedthismethod,invariablyhookingthetrout,thoughtheheavyshortcasting-lineandthebigflyfellveryawkwardlyinthedeadstillnessofthewater。Ihadsomeexcitingrunswiththem,fortheycameeagerlytothebigfly,anddidnotmissit,astheyhadmissedtheRedQuill,orWhitchurchDun,withwhichatfirstI

  triedtobeguilethem。One,ofonlytheaverageweight,Ididdragoutoverthelilies;theothersfelloffinmid-journey,buttheyneverbroketheuncompromisingstouttackle。

  Withthefirstchillofeveningtheyceasedrising,andIleftthem,notungratefulfortheirverypeculiarmannersandcustoms。

  Thechancesarethatthetroutbeyondthebandofweedsneverseeanartificialfly,andtheyare,therefore,themoreguileless——atleast,lateintheseason。Inspring,Ibelieve,theliliesarelessintheway,andIfearsomeonehasputaBerthonboatonthelochinApril。ButitisnotsomuchwhatonecatchesinLochBeg,asthemonsterswhichonemightcatchthatmakethetarnsodesirable。

  Thelochseemstoprovethatanyhill-tarnmightbemadeagoodplaceforsport,iftroutwereintroducedwheretheydonotexistalready。ButthesizeoftheseinLochBegpuzzlesme,norcanoneseehowtheybreed,asbreedtheydo:fortwiceorthriceIcaughtafingerling,andthrewhiminagain。Noburnrunsoutoftheloch,and,eveninaflood,thefeederissosmall,anditscoursesoextremelysteep,thatonecannotimaginewherethefishmanagetospawn。Theonlylochknowntomewherethecommontroutareofequalsize,isontheBorder。Itisextremelydeep,withveryclearwater,andwithscarceanyspawningground。Onasummereveningthetroutareoccasionallycaught;threeweighingsevenpoundsweretakenonenight,ayearortwoago。Ihavenottriedtheeveningfishing,butatallothertimesofdayhavefoundthemthe\"dourest\"oftrout,andtheygrowdourer。Butoneisalwaysluredonbythespectacleofthemonsterswhichthrowthemselvesoutofwater,withasplashthatechoesthroughallthecircuitofthelowgreenhills。Theyprobablyreachatleastfourorfivepounds,butitisunlikelythatthebiggesttakethefly,andonemaydoubtwhethertheypropagatetheirspecies,assmalltroutareneverseenthere。

  Therearetwowaysofenlargingthesizeoftroutwhichshouldbecarefullyavoided。Pikearesupposedtokeepdownthepopulationandleavemorefoodforthesurvivors,minnowsaresupposedtobenourishingfood。Bothofthesenoveltiesaredangerous。Pikehavebeenintroducedinthatlonglovelysheetofwater,LochKen,andI

  haveneveronceseentheriseofatroutbreakthatsurface,so\"hideouslyserene。\"Trout,inlochswhichhavebecomeaccustomedtofeedingonminnows,areapttodisdainflyaltogether。Ofcoursetherearelochsinwhichgoodtroutcoexistwithminnowsandwithpike,buttheseinmatesaretoodangeroustobeintroduced。

  Theintroduction,too,ofLochLeventroutisoftendisappointing。

  Sometimestheyescapedowntheburnintotheriverinfloods;

  sometimes,perhapsforlackofproperfoodandsufficient,theydwindleterriblyinsize,andbecomenobetterthan\"brownies。\"InSt。Mary\'sLoch,inSelkirkshire,someCanadiantroutwereintroduced。Littleornothinghasbeenseenofthem,unlesssomesmallcreaturesofaquarterofapound,extraordinarilysilvery,andmoreoftenintheairthaninthewaterwhenhooked,arethesechildrenoftheremoteWest。Iftheygrewup,andretainedtheirbeautyandsprightliness,theywouldbeexcellentsubstitutesforsea-trout。Almostallexperimentsinstockinglochshavetheirperils,exceptthesimpleexperimentofputtingtroutwheretherewerenotroutbefore。Thiscandonoharm,andtheymayincreaseinweight,letushopenotinwisdom,likethecuriouslyheavyandshyfishmentionedinthebeginningofthispaper。

  LOCHLEVEN

  Ihadafriendonce,anangler,whoinwinterwasfondofanothersport。HelikedtocasthislouisintothegreenbaizepondatMonteCarlo,and,onthewhole,hewasgenerally\"broken。\"Heseldomlandedthegoldenfishoftheoldman\'sdreaminTheocritus。

  Whenthecroupierhadgaffedallhismoneyhewouldrepentandsay,\"Now,thatwouldhavekeptmeatLochLevenforafortnight。\"OneusedtowonderwhetherafortnightofLochLevenwasworthanafternoonofthepleasureoflosingatMonteCarlo。Thelochhasanameforbeingcockneyfied,besetbywholefleetsofcompetitiveanglersfromvariousanglingclubsinScotland。Thatmenshouldcompetitivelyangleshows,indeed,agreatwantoftrueanglingsentiment。Tofishinacrowdisodious,toworkhardforprizesofflasksandcreelsandfly-booksistomistakethetruemeaningofthepastime。However,inthiscrowdedagemenaresoconstitutedthattheyliketoturnacontemplativeexerciseintoakindofBankHoliday。Thereisnouseinarguingwithsuchpersons;theworstoftheirpleasureisthatittendstochangeaScotchlochintosomethinglikethepondoftheWelshHarp,atHendon。ItisalwaysgoodnewstoreadinthepapershowtheDundeeWaltonSocietyhadabadday,andhowthefirstprizewaswonbyMr。Macneesh,withfivetroutweighingthreepoundsandthreequarters。LochLeven,then,iscrowdedandcockneyfiedbycompetitions;ithasalsonogreatnameforbeautyoflandscape。

  Everyonetohisowntasteinnaturalbeauty,butinthisrespectI

  thinkLochLevenisbetterthanitsreputation。Itiscertainlymorepictorial,sotospeak,thansomeremotemoorlochsupnearCapeWrath;Forsinardinparticular,wherethescenerylookslikeonegiganticseriesofbrown\"baps,\"flatScotchscones,alloflowelevation,allpreciselysimilartoeachother。

  LochLevenisnotsuchacockneyplaceasthemajorityofmenwhohavenotvisiteditimagine。ItreallyislargerthantheWelshHarpatHendon,andthescenery,thoughnotlikethatofBenCruachanorBenMohr,excelsthelandscapeofMiddlesex。Atthenorthernendisasmalltown,grey,withsomeredroofsandoneortwocharacteristicFifeshirechurch-towers,squatandstrong。

  Therearealsoafewfactorychimneys,whicharenotfairtooutwardview,norappropriatebyaloch-side。Onthewestarerangesofdistanthills,lowbutnotuncomely。Ontheeastrisesabeautifulmoorlandsteepwithbrokenandgracefuloutlines。Whenthesunshinesontheredtilledland,inspring;whenthesmokeofburninggorsecoilsupalldaylongintothesky,asiftheGreatSpiritweretakinghispipeofpeaceonthemountains;whentheislandsaremirroredontheglassywater,thentheartistrejoices,thoughtheanglerknowsthathewillwastehisday。Asfarasfishinggoes,heisboundtobe\"clean,\"astheboatmensay——tocatchnothing;butthesolemnpeace,andthewallsandruinedtowersofQueenMary\'sprison,maypartiallyconsolethefisher。

  Theaccommodationisagreeable,thereisapleasantinn——anoldtown-house,perhaps,ofsomegreatfamily,whenthegreatfamiliesdidnotrushuptoLondon,butspenttheirwintersinsuchcountrytownsasDumfriesandSt。Andrews。Theinnhasagreatgreengardenatitsdoors,andifthetalkismainlyoffishing,andifeveryonetellsofhismonstertroutthatescapedthenet,thereismuchworseconversationthanthat。

  WhenyoureachKinross,and,afterexcellenthamandeggs,begintomakeastart,thecockneyelementismostvisibleatthefirst。

  Everybody\'snameisregisteredinabook;eachpaysaconsiderable,butnotexorbitant,feeforthesociety——oftenwellworththemoney——andtheassistanceofboatmen。Thesegentlemenarealsowellprovidedwithluncheonandbeer,and,onthewhole,thereismorepleasureinthelifeofaLochLevenboatmanthaninmostarts,crafts,orprofessions。Hetakestherodwhenhispatronislazy;itissaidthatheoftencatchesthetrout;{1}heseesagooddealofgoodcompany,and,ifhisbasketbeheavy,whosocontentashe?Thefirstthingistorowouttoagoodbay,andwhichwillproveagoodbaydependsonthestrengthanddirectionofthewind。Perhapsthebestfishingisfarthestoff,attheendofalongrow,butthebestsceneryisnotsodistant。Agooddealhangsonanearlystartwhentherearemanyboatsout。

  LochLevenisarathershallowloch,seldommuchoverfifteenfeetdeep,savewherealongnarrowrentorgeologicalflawrunsthroughthebottom。Thewaterisofaqueerglaucousgreen,olive-

  coloured,orratherlikethetintmadewhenyouwashoutaboxofwater-colourpaints。ThisisnotsoprettyastheblackwaveofLochAweorLochShin,buthasaredeemingqualityintherichnessofthefeedingfortrout。Thesearefabledtoaverageaboutapound,butareprobablyatrifleunderthatweight,onthewhole。

  Theyarefamous,and,accordingtoSirWalterScott,werefamousaslongagoasinQueenMary\'stime,forthebrightsilveroftheirsides,fortheirpinkflesh,andgamenesswhenhooked。Theoristshaveexplainedallthisbysayingthattheyarethedescendantsofland-lockedsalmon。ThefliesusedonthelocharesmallerthanthosefavouredintheHighlands;theyaresoldattachedtocasts,andfourfliesareactuallyemployedatonce。Probablytwoarequiteenoughatatime。Ifaveterantroutisattractedbyseeingfourflies,allofdifferentspecies,andtheselikenothinginnature,allconspiringtodescendonhimatonce,hemustbelesscautiousthanwegenerallyfindhim。TheHampshireangler,ofcourse,willsneeratthewholeproceeding,the\"chuckingandchancingit,\"inthequeer-colouredwave,andtheuseofsomanyfancifulentomologicalspecimens。ButtheHampshireanglerisverywelcometotryhisarts,inacalm,andhisnatural-lookingcocked-

  upflies。HewillprobablybedefeatedbyagrocerfromGreenock,sinkinghisfourfliesverydeep,asis,bysomeexperts,recommended。Thetroutarecapricious,perhapsascapriciousasanyknowntotheangler,buttheyarebelievedtopreferastrongeastwindandadarkday。Theeastwindisnowhere,perhaps,sobadaspeoplefancy;itiscertainlynotsobadasthenorthwind,andonLochLevenitisthefavourite。Themanwhoisluckyenoughtohitontherightday,andtolandacoupleofdozenLochLeventrout,hasverygoodreasontocongratulatehimself,andneedenvynobody。Butsuchdaysandsuchtakesarerare,andthesummerof1890wasmuchmoreunfortunatethanthatof1889。

  OnegreatmistakeismadebythecompanywhichfarmstheLoch,stocksit,suppliestheboats,andregulatesthefishing。Theypermittrollingwithangels,orphantoms,orthenaturalminnow。

  Now,trollingmaybecomparativelylegitimate,whentheboatisbeingpulledagainstthewindtoitsdrift,butthereisnomoreskillinitthaninsittinginanomnibus。Butfortrolling,manyaboatwouldcomehome\"clean\"intheevening,ondaysofcalm,orwhen,forotherreasonsoftheirown,thetroutrefusetotaketheartificialfly。YettherearemenatLochLevenwhotrollallday,andpoorsportitmustbe,asatroutofapoundorsohasnochanceonatrolling-rod。Thismethodisinimicaltofly-fishing,butissuchaconsolationtotheinefficientanglerthatonecanhardlyexpecttoseeitabolished。Theunsuccessfulclamourfortrolling,insteadofconsolingthemselves,assportsmenshoulddo,withtheconversationofthegillies,theiranecdotesofgreattrout,andtheirreminiscencesofgreatanglers,especiallyofthelateMr。Russell,thefamededitorofthe\"Scotsman。\"Thishumouristisgradually\"winninghiswaytothemythical。\"Allfishingstoriesareattachedtohim;hiseloquenceissaidinthelanguageofthehistorianoftheBuccaneerstohavebeen\"florid\";

  heisreportedtohavethrownhisfly-bookintoLochLevenonanunluckyday,saying,\"Youbrutes,takeyourchoice,\"andarock,whichheoncehookedandheldonto,isnamedafterhim,ontheTweed。Inadditiontothehumaneandvariedconversationoftheboatmen,thereisalwaysthepurepleasureofsimplygazingatthehillsidesandattheislands。TheyareasmuchassociatedwiththememoryofMaryStuartasHermitageorevenHolyrood。Onthatislandwasherprison;heretherudeMortontriedtobullyherintosigningawayherrights;henceshemayoftenhavewatchedtheshoreatnightforthelightingofabeacon,asignthatarescuewasathand。

  Thehills,atleast,aremuchasshemayhaveseenthem,andthesquaretowersandcrumblingwallsontheislandmethereyeswhentheywerealltoostrong。The\"quay\"isnolonger\"rude,\"aswhen\"TheAbbot\"waswritten,andiscrowdedwiththegreenboatsoftheLochLevenCompany。Butyoustilllandonherislandunder\"thehugeoldtree\"whichScottsaw,whichtheunhappyMarymayherselfhaveseen。Thesmallgardenandthestatuesaregone,thegardenwhenceRolandGraemeledMarytotheboatandtobrieflibertyandhopeunfulfilled。Onlyakindofground-planremainsofthehallswhereLindesayandRuthvenbrowbeatherforlornMajesty。ButyoumayclimbthestaircasewhereRolandGraemestoodsentinel,andfeelatouch,ofwhatPepysfeltwhenhekissedadeadQueen——

  KatherineofValois。LikeRolandGraeme,theQueenmayhavebeen\"weariedtodeathofthisCastleofLochLeven,\"where,inspring,allseemssobeautiful,thetreesbuddingfreshlyabovetheyellowcelandineandamongthegreyprisonwalls。ItwasakindlierprisonhousethanFotheringay,andmindspeacefulandcontentedwouldgladlyhavetaken\"thisforahermitage。\"

  TheRomanEmperorsusedtobanishtoopowerfulsubjectstothelovelyislesthatlielikeliliesontheAEgean。Plutarchtriedtoconsoletheseexiles,byshowingthemhowfortunatetheywere,farfromthebustleoftheForum,thevices,thetortures,thenoiseandsmokeofRome,happy,iftheychose,intheirgardens,withthebluewatersbreakingontherocks,and,asheiscarefultoadd,WITHPLENTYOFFISHING。Mr。Mahaffycallsthis\"rhetoricalconsolation,\"andtheexilesmayhavebeenofhismind。ButtheexileswouldhavebeenwisetolistentoPlutarch,and,hadI

  enjoyedtheluckofMaryStuart,whenLochLevenwasnotoverfished,whenthetroutwereuneducated,neverwouldIhaveplungedintopoliticsagain。Shemighthavebeenveryhappy,withRonsard\'slatestpoems,withItalianromances,withaboatontheloch,andsomeRizziotosingtoheronthestillsummerdays。

  FromherCastleshewouldhearhowthepoliticiansweresquabbling,lying,raisingamantodivinityandstoninghimnextday,cuttingeachother\'sheadsoff,swearingandforswearingthemselves,conspiringandcaballing。Suavemari,andthepeaceofLochLevenandtheislandhermitagewouldhavebeenthesweeterforthedinoutside。Awoman,aQueen,aStuart,couldnotattain,andperhapsoughtnottohaveattained,thisepicureanism。MaryStuarthadherchance,andmissedit;perhaps,afterall,hershrewishfemalegaolermadethepassionlesslifeimpossible。

  These,atLochLeven,arenaturalreflections。Theplacehasacharmofitsown,especiallyifyoumakeupyourmindnottobedisappointed,nottotroll,andnottoenvythemorefortunateanglerswhoshouttoyouthenumberoftheirvictoriesacrossthewave。EvenatLochLevenwemaybecontemplative,maybequiet,andgoa-fishing。{2}

  THEBLOODYDOCTOR

  ABADDAYONCLEARBURN

  Thouaskestme,mybrother,howfirstandwhereImettheBloodyDoctor?Thetaleisweird,soweirdthattoasoullessprovedthanthineIscarcedarespeakoftheadventure。

  This,perhaps,wouldbetherightwayofbeginningastorynotthatitisastoryexactly,withthetitleforcedonmebythenameandnatureofthehero。ButIdonotthinkIcouldkeepupthestylewithoutalady-collaborator;besides,Ihaveusedtheterm\"weird\"twicealready,andthusplayedawaythetrumpsofmodernpicturesquediction。ToreturntoourDoctor:manyabaddayhaveIhadonClearburnLoch,andneveragoodone。ButonethingdrawsmealwaystothelochwhenIhavethelucktobewithintwentymilesofit。TherearetroutinClearburn!TheBorderanglerknowsthatthetroutinhisnativewatersisnearlyasextinctasthedodo。Manycauseshavecombinedtoextirpatetheshyandspiritedfish。First,therearetoomanyanglers:

  TwixtHolyLeeandClovenfords,Atentierbityecannahae,sangthatgoodoldangler,nowwithGod,Mr。ThomasTodStoddart。

  ButbetweenHolyLeeandClovenfordsyoumayseehalfadozenrodsoneverypoolandstream。Theregoesthatleviathan,theanglerfromLondon,whohasbeenbeguiledhitherbytheartless\"Guide\"ofMr。WatsonLyall。Therefishesthefarmer\'slad,andtheschoolmaster,andthewanderingweaveroutofworkordisinclinedtowork。Inhisrags,withhisthinfaceandred\"goatee\"beard,withhishazelwandandhishome-madereel,thereiswithalsomethingkindlyaboutthispoorfellow,thistruesportsman。Helovesbettertohearthelarksingthanthemousecheep;hewandersfromdepopulatedstreamtodepopulatedburn,andallisfishthatcomestohisfly。Fingerlingshekeeps,anddoesnotreturntothewater\"aspityingtheiryouth。\"Letusnotgrudgehimhissportaslongashefishesfair,andheisalwaysgoodcompany。Buthe,withalltheothercountlessfishermen,makefishsorareandsowarythat,exceptafterafloodinMeggatortheDouglasburn,troutarescarcetobetakenbyordinaryskill。AsforThaereivingcheilsFraeGalashiels,whousenets,andsalmonroe,andpoisons,anddynamite,theyaremiscreantsindeed;theyspoilthesport,notoftherich,butoftheirownclass,andofeverymanwhowouldbequiet,andgoanglinginthesacredstreamsofChristopherNorthandtheShepherd。Themills,withtheirdyesanddirt,arealsoresponsibleforthedearthoftrout。

  Untaintedyetthystream,fairTeviot,runs,Leydensang;butnowthestreamisverymuchtaintedindeedbelowHawick,likeTweedintoomanyplaces。Thus,foradozenreasons,troutarenighasrareasreddeer。Clearburnaloneremainsfullofunsophisticatedfishes,andIhavethelesshesitationinrevealingthis,becauseIdonotexpectthewandererwhomayreadthispagetobeatallmoresuccessfulthanmyself。Nodoubttheyaresometimestobehad,bythebasketful,butnotoften,norbyhimwhothinkstwicebeforeriskinghislifebysmotheringinapeatybottom。

  ToreachClearburnLoch,ifyoustartfromtheTeviot,youmustpassthroughmuchofScott\'scountryandmostofLeyden\'s。IamcrediblyinformedthatpersonsofculturehaveforgottenJohnLeyden。Hewasalinguistandapoet,andthefriendofWalterScott,andknewThemindwhosefearlessfranknessnaughtcouldmove,Thefriendship,likeanelderbrother\'slove。

  WerememberwhatdistantandwhatdeadlyshorehasLeyden\'scoldremains,andpeoplewhodonotknowmaynotcaretobereminded。

  LeavingTeviot,withLeydenforaguide,youwalk,ordrive,WhereBorthahoarse,thatloadsthemeadswithsand,Rollsherredtide。

  Notthatitwasredwhenwepassed,butelectropurior。

  Throughslatyhillswhosesidesareshaggedwiththorn,Wheresprings,inscatteredtufts,thedarkgreencorn,Towerswood-girtHardenfarabovethevale。

  Andverydarkgreen,almostblue,wasthecorninSeptember,1888。

  Upwards,alwaysupwards,goestheroadtillyoureachthecrest,andwatchfarbelowthewidechampaign,likeasea,brokenbytheshapesofhills,WindburgandEildon,andPriesthaughswire,and\"theroughskirtsofstormyRuberslaw,\"andPenchrise,andthetwinMaidens,shapedlikethebreastsofHelen。Itisanoldland,ofwar,ofOtterburn,andAncrum,andtheRaidoftheFairDodhead;

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