Itwasajourneywhicharollingstonewouldmakeinafewseconds——theloftypointofdeparturewasvisiblefromthevillagebelowinthevalley。
Thepredictioncutcuriouslyclosetothetruth；
forty-oneyearsafterthecatastrophe，theremainswerecastforthatthefootoftheglacier。
IfindaninterestingaccountofthematterintheHISTOIREDUMONTBLANC，byStephend\'Arve。Iwillcondensethisaccount，asfollows:
Onthe12thofAugust，1861，atthehourofthecloseofmass，aguidearrivedoutofbreathatthemairieofChamonix，andbearingonhisshouldersaverylugubriousburden。
ItwasasackfilledwithhumanremainswhichhehadgatheredfromtheorificeofacreviceintheGlacierdesBossons。
Heconjecturedthatthesewereremainsofthevictimsofthecatastropheof1820，andaminuteinquest，immediatelyinstitutedbythelocalauthorities，soondemonstratedthecorrectnessofhissupposition。
Thecontentsofthesackwerespreaduponalongtable，andofficiallyinventoried，asfollows:
Portionsofthreehumanskulls。Severaltuftsofblackandblondehair。Ahumanjaw，furnishedwithfinewhiteteeth。
Aforearmandhand，allthefingersofthelatterintact。
Thefleshwaswhiteandfresh，andboththearmandhandpreservedadegreeofflexibilityinthearticulations。
Thering-fingerhadsufferedaslightabrasion，andthestainofthebloodwasstillvisibleandunchangedafterforty-oneyears。Aleftfoot，thefleshwhiteandfresh。
Alongwiththesefragmentswereportionsofwaistcoats，hats，hobnailedshoes，andotherclothing；awingofapigeon，withblackfeathers；afragmentofanalpenstock；
atinlantern；andlastly，aboiledlegofmutton，theonlyfleshamongalltheremainsthatexhaledanunpleasantodor。Theguidesaidthatthemuttonhadnoodorwhenhetookitfromtheglacier；anhour\'sexposuretothesunhadalreadybeguntheworkofdecompositionuponit。
Personswerecalledfor，toidentifythesepoorpatheticrelics，andatouchingsceneensured。Twomenwerestilllivingwhohadwitnessedthegrimcatastropheofnearlyhalfacenturybefore——MarieCouttetsavedbyhisbaton
andJulienDavouassouxsavedbythebarometer。Theseagedmenenteredandapproachedthetable。Davouassoux，morethaneightyyearsold，contemplatedthemournfulremainsmutelyandwithavacanteye，forhisintelligenceandhismemoryweretorpidwithage；butCouttet\'sfacultieswerestillperfectatseventy-two，andheexhibitedstrongemotion。Hesaid:
\"PierreBalmatwasfair；heworeastrawhat。Thisbitofskull，withthetuftofblondhair，washis；thisishishat。
PierreCarrierwasverydark；thisskullwashis，andthisfelthat。ThisisBalmat\'shand，Irememberitsowell!\"
andtheoldmanbentdownandkisseditreverently，thenclosedhisfingersuponitinanaffectionategrasp，cryingout，\"Icouldneverhavedaredtobelievethatbeforequittingthisworlditwouldbegrantedmetopressoncemorethehandofoneofthosebravecomrades，thehandofmygoodfriendBalmat。\"
Thereissomethingweirdlypatheticaboutthepictureofthatwhite-hairedveterangreetingwithhislovinghandshakethisfriendwhohadbeendeadfortyyears。
Whenthesehandshadmetlast，theywerealikeinthesoftnessandfreshnessofyouth；now，onewasbrownandwrinkledandhornywithage，whiletheotherwasstillasyoungandfairandblemishlessasifthosefortyyearshadcomeandgoneinasinglemoment，leavingnomarkoftheirpassage。Timehadgoneon，intheonecase；
ithadstoodstillintheother。Amanwhohasnotseenafriendforageneration，keepshiminmindalwaysashesawhimlast，andissomehowsurprised，andisalsoshocked，toseetheagingchangetheyearshavewroughtwhenheseeshimagain。MarieCouttet\'sexperience，infindinghisfriend\'shandunalteredfromtheimageofitwhichhehadcarriedinhismemoryforfortyyears，isanexperiencewhichstandsaloneinthehistoryofman，perhaps。
Couttetidentifiedotherrelics:
\"ThishatbelongedtoAugusteTairraz。Hecarriedthecageofpigeonswhichweproposedtosetfreeuponthesummit。Hereisthewingofoneofthosepigeons。
Andhereisthefragmentofmybrokenbaton；itwasbygraceofthatbatonthatmylifewassaved。WhocouldhavetoldmethatIshouldonedayhavethesatisfactiontolookagainuponthisbitofwoodthatsupportedmeabovethegravethatswallowedupmyunfortunatecompanions!\"
NoportionsofthebodyofTairraz，otherthanapieceoftheskull，hadbeenfound。Adiligentsearchwasmade，butwithoutresult。However，anothersearchwasinstitutedayearlater，andthishadbettersuccess。
Manyfragmentsofclothingwhichhadbelongedtothelostguideswerediscovered；also，partofalantern，andagreenveilwithblood-stainsonit。Buttheinterestingfeaturewasthis:
Oneofthesearcherscamesuddenlyuponasleevedarmprojectingfromacreviceintheice-wall，withthehandoutstretchedasifofferinggreeting!\"Thenailsofthiswhitehandwerestillrosy，andtheposeoftheextendedfingersseemedtoexpressaneloquentwelcometothelong-lostlightofday。\"
Thehandandarmwerealone；therewasnotrunk。
Afterbeingremovedfromtheicetheflesh-tintsquicklyfadedoutandtherosynailstookonthealabasterhueofdeath。ThiswasthethirdRIGHThandfound；
therefore，allthreeofthelostmenwereaccountedfor，beyondcavilorquestion。
Dr。HamelwastheRussiangentlemanofthepartywhichmadetheascentatthetimeofthefamousdisaster。
HeleftChamonixassoonasheconvenientlycouldafterthedescent；andashehadshownachillyindifferenceaboutthecalamity，andofferedneithersympathynorassistancetothewidowsandorphans，hecarriedwithhimthecordialexecrationsofthewholecommunity。
Fourmonthsbeforethefirstremainswerefound，aChamonixguidenamedBalmat——arelativeofoneofthelostmen——wasinLondon，andonedayencounteredahaleoldgentlemanintheBritishMuseum，whosaid:
\"Ioverheardyourname。AreyoufromChamonix，MonsieurBalmat?\"
\"Yes，sir。\"
\"Haven\'ttheyfoundthebodiesofmythreeguides，yet?IamDr。Hamel。\"
\"Alas，no，monsieur。\"
\"Well，you\'llfindthem，soonerorlater。\"
\"Yes，itistheopinionofDr。ForbesandMr。Tyndall，thattheglacierwillsoonerorlaterrestoretoustheremainsoftheunfortunatevictims。\"
\"Withoutadoubt，withoutadoubt。AnditwillbeagreatthingforChamonix，inthematterofattractingtourists。
Youcangetupamuseumwiththoseremainsthatwilldraw!\"
ThissavageideahasnotimprovedtheodorofDr。Hamel\'snameinChamonixbyanymeans。Butafterall，themanwassoundonhumannature。HisideawasconveyedtothepublicofficialsofChamonix，andtheygravelydiscusseditaroundtheofficialcouncil-table。Theywereonlypreventedfromcarryingitintoexecutionbythedeterminedoppositionofthefriendsanddescendantsofthelostguides，whoinsistedongivingtheremainsChristianburial，andsucceededintheirpurpose。
Aclosewatchhadtobekeptuponallthepoorremnantsandfragments，topreventembezzlement。Afewaccessoryoddsandendsweresold。Ragsandscrapsofthecoarseclothingwerepartedwithattherateequaltoabouttwentydollarsayard；apieceofalanternandoneortwoothertriflesbroughtnearlytheirweightingold；
andanEnglishmanofferedapoundsterlingforasinglebreeches-button。
CHAPTERXLI
[TheFearfulDisasterof1865]
OneofthemostmemorableofalltheAlpinecatastropheswasthatofJuly，1865，ontheMatterhorn——alreadysightedreferredto，afewpagesback。ThedetailsofitarescarcelyknowninAmerica。Tothevastmajorityofreaderstheyarenotknownatall。
Mr。Whymper\'saccountistheonlyauthenticone。
Iwillimportthechiefportionofitintothisbook，partlybecauseofitsintrinsicinterest，andpartlybecauseitgivessuchavividideaofwhattheperilouspastimeofAlp-climbingis。ThiswasMr。Whymper\'sNINTHattemptduringaseriesofyears，tovanquishthatsteepandstubbornpillarorrock；itsucceeded，theothereightwerefailures。Nomanhadeveraccomplishedtheascentbefore，thoughtheattemptshadbeennumerous。
MR。WHYMPER\'SNARRATIVE
WestartedfromZermattonthe13thofJuly，athalfpastfive，onabrilliantandperfectlycloudlessmorning。
Wewereeightinnumber——Crozguide，oldPeterTaugwalderguideandhistwosons；LordF。Douglas，Mr。Hadow，Rev。Mr。Hudson，andI。Toinsuresteadymotion，onetouristandonenativewalkedtogether。
TheyoungestTaugwalderfelltomyshare。Thewine-bagsalsofelltomylottocarry，andthroughouttheday，aftereachdrink，Ireplenishedthemsecretlywithwater，sothatatthenexthalttheywerefoundfullerthanbefore!Thiswasconsideredagoodomen，andlittleshortofmiraculous。
Onthefirstdaywedidnotintendtoascendtoanygreatheight，andwemounted，accordingly，veryleisurely。
Beforetwelveo\'clockwehadfoundagoodpositionforthetent，ataheightofeleventhousandfeet。
Wepassedtheremaininghoursofdaylight——somebaskinginthesunshine，somesketching，somecollecting；
Hudsonmadetea，Icoffee，andatlengthweretired，eachonetohisblanketbag。
Weassembledtogetherbeforedawnonthe14thandstarteddirectlyitwaslightenoughtomove。
OneoftheyoungTaugwaldersreturnedtoZermatt。
Inafewminutesweturnedtheribwhichhadinterceptedtheviewoftheeasternfacefromourtentplatform。
Thewholeofthisgreatslopewasnowrevealed，risingforthreethousandfeetlikeahugenaturalstaircase。
Somepartsweremore，andotherswerelesseasy，butwewerenotoncebroughttoahaltbyanyseriousimpediment，forwhenanobstructionwasmetinfrontitcouldalwaysbeturnedtotherightortotheleft。Forthegreaterpartofthewaytherewasnooccasion，indeed，fortherope，andsometimesHudsonled，sometimesmyself。Atsix-twentywehadattainedaheightoftwelvethousandeighthundredfeet，andhaltedforhalfanhour；wethencontinuedtheascentwithoutabreakuntilnine-fifty-five，whenwestoppedforfiftyminutes，ataheightoffourteenthousandfeet。
Wehadnowarrivedatthefootofthatpartwhich，seenfromtheRiffelberg，seemsperpendicularoroverhanging。
Wecouldnolongercontinueontheeasternside。ForalittledistanceweascendedbysnowupontheARE^TE——thatis，theridge——thenturnedovertotheright，ornorthernside。
Theworkbecamedifficult，andrequiredcaution。Insomeplacestherewaslittletohold；thegeneralslopeofthemountainwasLESSthanfortydegrees，andsnowhadaccumulatedin，andhadfilledup，theintersticesoftherock-face，leavingonlyoccasionalfragmentsprojectinghereandthere。
Thesewereattimescoveredwithathinfilmofice。
Itwasaplacewhichanyfairmountaineermightpassinsafety。Weboreawaynearlyhorizontallyforaboutfourhundredfeet，thenascendeddirectlytowardthesummitforaboutsixtyfeet，thendoubledbacktotheridgewhichdescendstowardZermatt。Alongstrideroundaratherawkwardcornerbroughtustosnowoncemore。
Thatlastdoubtvanished!TheMatterhornwasours!Nothingbuttwohundredfeetofeasysnowremainedtobesurmounted。
Thehigherwerose，themoreintensebecametheexcitement。
Theslopeeasedoff，atlengthwecouldbedetached，andCrozandI，dashedaway，rananeck-and-neckrace，whichendedinadeadheat。At1:40P。M。，theworldwasatourfeet，andtheMatterhornwasconquered!
Theothersarrived。Croznowtookthetent-pole，andplanteditinthehighestsnow。\"Yes，\"wesaid，\"thereistheflag-staff，butwhereistheflag?\"\"Hereitis，\"
heanswered，pullingoffhisblouseandfixingittothestick。
Itmadeapoorflag，andtherewasnowindtofloatitout，yetitwasseenallaround。TheysawitatZermatt——attheRiffel——intheValTournanche……
Weremainedonthesummitforonehour——
Onecrowdedhourofgloriouslife。
Itpassedawaytooquickly，andwebegantoprepareforthedescent。
HudsonandIconsultedastothebestandsafestarrangementoftheparty。WeagreedthatitwasbestforCroztogofirst，andHadowsecond；Hudson，whowasalmostequaltoaguideinsurenessoffoot，wishedtobethird；
LordDouglaswasplacednext，andoldPeter，thestrongestoftheremainder，afterhim。IsuggestedtoHudsonthatweshouldattacharopetotherocksonourarrivalatthedifficultbit，andholditaswedescended，asanadditionalprotection。Heapprovedtheidea，butitwasnotdefinitelydecidedthatitshouldbedone。
ThepartywasbeingarrangedintheaboveorderwhileI
wassketchingthesummit，andtheyhadfinished，andwerewaitingformetobetiedinline，whensomeonerememberedthatournameshadnotbeenleftinabottle。
Theyrequestedmetowritethemdown，andmovedoffwhileitwasbeingdone。
AfewminutesafterwardItiedmyselftoyoungPeter，randownaftertheothers，andcaughtthemjustastheywerecommencingthedescentofthedifficultpart。
Greatcarewasbeingtaken。Onlyonemanwasmovingatatime；
whenhewasfirmlyplantedthenextadvanced，andsoon。
Theyhadnot，however，attachedtheadditionalropetorocks，andnothingwassaidaboutit。Thesuggestionwasnotmadeformyownsake，andIamnotsurethatiteveroccurredtomeagain。Forsomelittledistancewetwofollowedtheothers，detachedfromthem，andshouldhavecontinuedsohadnotLordDouglasaskedme，about3
P。M。，totieontooldPeter，ashefeared，hesaid，thatTaugwalderwouldnotbeabletoholdhisgroundifaslipoccurred。
Afewminuteslater，asharp-eyedladranintotheMonteRosaHotel，atZermatt，sayingthathehadseenanavalanchefallfromthesummitoftheMatterhornontotheMatterhornglacier。Theboywasreprovedfortellingidlestories；
hewasright，nevertheless，andthiswaswhathesaw。
MichelCrozhadlaidasidehisax，andinordertogiveMr。Hadowgreatersecurity，wasabsolutelytakingholdofhislegs，andputtinghisfeet，onebyone，intotheirproperpositions。AsfarasIknow，noonewasactuallydescending。Icannotspeakwithcertainty，becausethetwoleadingmenwerepartiallyhiddenfrommysightbyaninterveningmassofrock，butitismybelief，fromthemovementsoftheirshoulders，thatCroz，havingdoneasIsaid，wasintheactofturningroundtogodownasteportwohimself；
atthismomentMr。Hadowslipped，fellagainsthim，andknockedhimover。IheardonestartledexclamationfromCroz，thensawhimandMr。Hadowflyingdownward；
inanothermomentHudsonwasdraggedfromhissteps，andLordDouglasimmediatelyafterhim。Allthiswastheworkofamoment。ImmediatelyweheardCroz\'sexclamation，oldPeterandIplantedourselvesasfirmlyastherockswouldpermit；theropewastautbetweenus，andthejerkcameonusbothasononeman。Weheld；buttheropebrokemidwaybetweenTaugwalderandLordFrancisDouglas。
Forafewsecondswesawourunfortunatecompanionsslidingdownwardontheirbacks，andspreadingouttheirhands，endeavoringtosavethemselves。Theypassedfromoursightuninjured，disappearedonebyone，andfellfromtheprecipicetoprecipiceontotheMatterhornglacierbelow，adistanceofnearlyfourthousandfeetinheight。
Fromthemomenttheropebrokeitwasimpossibletohelpthem。
Soperishedourcomrades!
FormorethantwohoursafterwardIthoughtalmosteverymomentthatthenextwouldbemylast；fortheTaugwalders，utterlyunnerved，werenotonlyincapableofgivingassistance，butwereinsuchastatethataslipmighthavebeenexpectedfromthematanymoment。Afteratimewewereabletodothatwhichshouldhavebeendoneatfirst，andfixedropetofirmrocks，inadditiontobeingtiedtogether。
Theseropeswerecutfromtimetotime，andwereleftbehind。
Evenwiththeirassurancethemenwereafraidtoproceed，andseveraltimesoldPeterturned，withashyfaceandfalteringlimbs，andsaid，withterribleemphasis，\"ICANNOT!\"
About6P。M。，wearrivedatthesnowupontheridgedescendingtowardZermatt，andallperilwasover。
Wefrequentlylooked，butinvain，fortracesofourunfortunatecompanions；webentovertheridgeandcriedtothem，butnosoundreturned。Convincedatlastthattheywereneitherwithinsightnorhearing，weceasedfromouruselessefforts；and，toocastdownforspeech，silentlygatheredupourthings，andthelittleeffectsofthosewhowerelost，andthencompletedthedescent——
SuchisMr。Whymper\'sgraphicandthrillingnarrative。
ZermattgossipdarklyhintsthattheelderTaugwaldercuttherope，whentheaccidentoccurred，inordertopreservehimselffrombeingdraggedintotheabyss；
butMr。Whympersaysthattheendsoftheropeshowednoevidenceofcutting，butonlyofbreaking。HeaddsthatifTaugwalderhadhadthedispositiontocuttherope，hewouldnothavehadtimetodoit，theaccidentwassosuddenandunexpected。
LordDouglas\'bodyhasneverbeenfound。Itprobablylodgeduponsomeinaccessibleshelfinthefaceofthemightyprecipice。LordDouglaswasayouthofnineteen。
Thethreeothervictimsfellnearlyfourthousandfeet，andtheirbodieslaytogetherupontheglacierwhenfoundbyMr。Whymperandtheothersearchersthenextmorning。
TheirgravesarebesidethelittlechurchinZermatt。
CHAPTERXLII
[ChillonhasaNice，RoomyDungeon]
Switzerlandissimplyalarge，humpy，solidrock，withathinskinofgrassstretchedoverit。Consequently，theydonotdiggraves，theyblastthemoutwithpowerandfuse。Theycannotaffordtohavelargegraveyards，thegrassskinistoocircumscribedandtoovaluable。
Itisallrequiredforthesupportoftheliving。
ThegraveyardinZermattoccupiesonlyaboutone-eighthofanacre。Thegravesaresunkinthelivingrock，andareverypermanent；butoccupationofthemisonlytemporary；
theoccupantcanonlystaytillhisgraveisneededbyalatersubject，heisremoved，then，fortheydonotburyonebodyontopofanother。AsIunderstandit，afamilyownsagrave，justasitownsahouse。Amandiesandleaveshishousetohisson——andatthesametime，thisdeadfathersucceedstohisownfather\'sgrave。
Hemovesoutofthehouseandintothegrave，andhispredecessormovesoutofthegraveandintothecellarofthechapel。Isawablackboxlyinginthechurchyard，withskullandcross-bonespaintedonit，andwastoldthatthiswasusedintransferringremainstothecellar。
Inthatcellarthebonesandskullsofseveralhundredofformercitizenswerecompactlycordedup。Theymadeapileeighteenfeetlong，sevenfeethigh，andeightfeetwide。
IwastoldthatinsomeofthereceptaclesofthiskindintheSwissvillages，theskullswereallmarked，andifamanwishedtofindtheskullsofhisancestorsforseveralgenerationsback，hecoulddoitbythesemarks，preservedinthefamilyrecords。
AnEnglishgentlemanwhohadlivedsomeyearsinthisregion，saiditwasthecradleofcompulsoryeducation。
ButhesaidthattheEnglishideathatcompulsoryeducationwouldreducebastardyandintemperancewasanerror——ithasnotthateffect。HesaidtherewasmoreseductionintheProtestantthanintheCatholiccantons，becausetheconfessionalprotectedthegirls。Iwonderwhyitdoesn\'tprotectmarriedwomeninFranceandSpain?
ThisgentlemansaidthatamongthepoorerpeasantsintheValais，itwascommonforthebrothersinafamilytocastlotstodeterminewhichofthemshouldhavethecovetedprivilegeofmarrying，andhisbrethren——doomedbachelors——heroicallybandedthemselvestogethertohelpsupportthenewfamily。
WeleftZermattinawagon——andinarain-storm，too——
forSt。Nicholasaboutteno\'clockonemorning。
Againwepassedbetweenthosegrass-cladprodigiouscliffs，speckedwithweedwellingspeepingoveratusfromvelvetygreenwallstenandtwelvehundredfeethigh。
Itdidnotseempossiblethattheimaginarychamoisevencouldclimbthoseprecipices。Loversonoppositecliffsprobablykissthroughaspy-glass，andcorrespondwitharifle。
InSwitzerlandthefarmer\'splowisawideshovel，whichscrapesupandturnsoverthethinearthyskinofhisnativerock——andtherethemanoftheplowisahero。
Nowhere，byourSt。Nicholasroad，wasagrave，andithadatragicstory。Aplowmanwasskinninghisfarmonemorning——notthesteepestpartofit，butstillasteeppart——thatis，hewasnotskinningthefrontofhisfarm，buttheroofofit，neartheeaves——whenheabsent-mindedlyletgooftheplow-handlestomoistenhishands，intheusualway；helosthisbalanceandfelloutofhisfarmbackward；poorfellow，henevertouchedanythingtillhestruckbottom，fifteenhundredfeetbelow。
[1]Wethrowahaloofheroismaroundthelifeofthesoldierandthesailor，becauseofthedeadlydangerstheyarefacingallthetime。Butwearenotusedtolookinguponfarmingasaheroicoccupation。ThisisbecausewehavenotlivedinSwitzerland。
1。ThiswasonaSunday——M。T。
FromSt。NicholaswestruckoutforVisp——orVispach——onfoot。
Therain-stormshadbeenatworkduringseveraldays，andhaddoneadealofdamageinSwitzerlandandSavoy。
Wecametooneplacewhereastreamhadchangeditscourseandplungeddownamountaininanewplace，sweepingeverythingbeforeit。Twopoorbutpreciousfarmsbytheroadsidewereruined。Onewaswashedclearaway，andthebed-rockexposed；theotherwasburiedoutofsightunderatumbledchaosofrocks，gravel，mud，andrubbish。
Theresistlessmightofwaterwaswellexemplified。
Somesaplingswhichhadstoodinthewaywerebenttotheground，strippedcleanoftheirbark，andburiedunderrockydebris。
Theroadhadbeensweptaway，too。
Inanotherplace，wheretheroadwashighuponthemountain\'sface，anditsoutsideedgeprotectedbyflimsymasonry，wefrequentlycameacrossspotswherethismasonryhadcarvedoffandleftdangerousgapsformulestogetover；
andwithstillmorefrequencywefoundthemasonryslightlycrumbled，andmarkedbymule-hoofs，thusshowingthattherehadbeendangerofanaccidenttosomebody。
Whenatlastwecametoabadlyrupturedbitofmasonry，withhoof-printsevidencingadesperatestruggletoregainthelostfoothold，Ilookedquitehopefullyoverthedizzyprecipice。Buttherewasnobodydownthere。
TheytakeexceedinglygoodcareoftheirriversinSwitzerlandandotherportionsofEurope。Theywallupbothbankswithslantingsolidstonemasonry——sothatfromendtoendoftheseriversthebankslooklikethewharvesatSt。LouisandothertownsontheMississippiRiver。
ItwasduringthiswalkfromSt。Nicholas，intheshadowofthemajesticAlps，thatwecameacrosssomelittlechildrenamusingthemselvesinwhatseemed，atfirst，amostoddandoriginalway——butitwasn\'t；itwasinsimplyanaturalandcharacteristicway。Theywereropedtogetherwithastring，theyhadmimicalpenstocksandice-axes，andwereclimbingameekandlowlymanure-pilewithamostblood-curdlingamountofcareandcaution。
The\"guide\"attheheadofthelinecutimaginarysteps，inalaboriousandpainstakingway，andnotamonkeybudgedtillthestepabovewasvacated。Ifwehadwaitedweshouldhavewitnessedanimaginaryaccident，nodoubt；
andweshouldhaveheardtheintrepidbandhurrahwhentheymadethesummitandlookedarounduponthe\"magnificentview，\"
andseenthemthrowthemselvesdowninexhaustedattitudesforarestinthatcommandingsituation。
InNevadaIusedtoseethechildrenplayatsilver-mining。
Ofcourse，thegreatthingwasanaccidentinamine，andthereweretwo\"star\"parts；thatofthemanwhofelldownthemimicshaft，andthatofthedaringherowhowasloweredintothedepthstobringhimup。
IknewonesmallchapwhoalwaysinsistedonplayingBOTHoftheseparts——andhecarriedhispoint。
Hewouldtumbleintotheshaftanddie，andthencometothesurfaceandgobackafterhisownremains。
Itisthesmartestboythatgetstheheroparteverywhere；
heisheadguideinSwitzerland，headminerinNevada，headbull-fighterinSpain，etc。；butIknewapreacher\'sson，sevenyearsold，whoonceselectedapartforhimselfcomparedtowhichthosejustmentionedaretameandunimpressive。
Jimmy\'sfatherstoppedhimfromdrivingimaginaryhorse-carsoneSunday——stoppedhimfromplayingcaptainofanimaginarysteamboatnextSunday——stoppedhimfromleadinganimaginaryarmytobattlethefollowingSunday——andsoon。Finallythelittlefellowsaid:
\"I\'vetriedeverything，andtheywon\'tanyofthemdo。
WhatCANIplay?\"
\"Ihardlyknow，Jimmy；butyouMUSTplayonlythingsthataresuitabletotheSabbath-day。\"
NextSundaythepreachersteppedsoftlytoaback-roomdoortoseeifthechildrenwererightlyemployed。
Hepeepedin。Achairoccupiedthemiddleoftheroom，andonthebackofithungJimmy\'scap；oneofhislittlesisterstookthecapdown，nibbledatit，thenpassedittoanothersmallsisterandsaid，\"Eatofthisfruit，foritisgood。\"TheReverendtookinthesituation——alas，theywereplayingtheExpulsionfromEden!Yethefoundonelittlecrumbofcomfort。Hesaidtohimself，\"ForonceJimmyhasyieldedthechiefrole——Ihavebeenwronginghim，Ididnotbelievetherewassomuchmodestyinhim；
IshouldhaveexpectedhimtobeeitherAdamorEve。\"
Thiscrumbofcomfortlastedbutaverylittlewhile；
heglancedaroundanddiscoveredJimmystandinginanimposingattitudeinacorner，withadarkanddeadlyfrownonhisface。Whatthatmeantwasveryplain——HEWAS
IMPERSONATINGTHEDEITY!Thinkoftheguilelesssublimityofthatidea。
WereachedVispachat8P。M。，onlyaboutsevenhoursoutfromSt。Nicholas。Sowemusthavemadefullyamileandahalfanhour，anditwasalldownhill，too，andverymuddyatthat。WestayedallnightattheHo^teldeSoleil；Irememberitbecausethelandlady，theportier，thewaitress，andthechambermaidwerenotseparatepersons，butwereallcontainedinoneneatandchippersuitofspotlessmuslin，andshewastheprettiestyoungcreatureIsawinallthatregion。Shewasthelandlord\'sdaughter。AndIrememberthattheonlynativematchtoherIsawinallEuropewastheyoungdaughterofthelandlordofavillageinnintheBlackForest。
Whydon\'tmorepeopleinEuropemarryandkeephotel?
NextmorningweleftwithafamilyofEnglishfriendsandwentbytraintoBrevet，andthencebyboatacrossthelaketoOuchyLausanne。
Ouchyismemorabletome，notonaccountofitsbeautifulsituationandlovelysurroundings——althoughthesewouldmakeitsticklonginone\'smemory——butastheplacewhere_I_caughttheLondonTIMESdroppingintohumor。
ItwasNOTawareofit，though。Itdidnotdoitonpurpose。
AnEnglishfriendcalledmyattentiontothislapse，andcutoutthereprehensibleparagraphforme。Thinkofencounteringagrinlikethisonthefaceofthatgrimjournal:
ERRATUM——WearerequestedbyReuter\'sTelegramCompanytocorrectanerroneousannouncementmadeintheirBrisbanetelegramofthe2dinst。，publishedinourimpressionofthe5thinst。，statingthat\"LadyKennedyhadgivenbirthtotwins，theeldestbeingason。\"TheCompanyexplainthatthemessagetheyreceivedcontainedthewords\"GovernorofQueensland，TWINSFIRSTSON。\"Being，however，subsequentlyinformedthatSirArthurKennedywasunmarriedandthattheremustbesomemistake，atelegraphicrepetitionwasatoncedemanded。Ithasbeenreceivedtoday11thinst。
andshowsthatthewordsreallytelegraphedbyReuter\'sagentwere\"GovernorQueenslandTURNSFIRSTSOD，\"
alludingtotheMaryborough-GympicRailwayincourseofconstruction。ThewordsinitalicsweremutilatedbythetelegraphintransmissionfromAustralia，andreachingthecompanyintheformmentionedabovegaverisetothemistake。
Ihadalwayshadadeepandreverentcompassionforthesufferingsofthe\"prisonerofChillon，\"
whosestoryByronhadtoldinsuchmovingverse；soItookthesteamerandmadepilgrimagetothedungeonsoftheCastleofChillon，toseetheplacewherepoorBonnivardenduredhisdrearycaptivitythreehundredyearsago。
IamgladIdidthat，forittookawaysomeofthepainIwasfeelingontheprisoner\'saccount。Hisdungeonwasanice，cool，roomyplace，andIcannotseewhyheshouldhavebeendissatisfiedwithit。IfhehadbeenimprisonedinaSt。Nicholasprivatedwelling，wherethefertilizerprevails，andthegoatsleepswiththeguest，andthechickensroostonhimandthecowcomesinandbothershimwhenhewantstomuse，itwouldhavebeenanothermatteraltogether；buthesurelycouldnothavehadaverycheerlesstimeofitinthatprettydungeon。
Ithasromanticwindow-slitsthatletingenerousbarsoflight，andithastall，noblecolumns，carvedapparentlyfromthelivingrock；andwhatismore，theyarewrittenalloverwiththousandsofnames；someofthem——likeByron\'sandVictorHugo\'s——ofthefirstcelebrity。
Whydidn\'theamusehimselfreadingthesenames?Thentherearethecouriersandtourists——swarmsofthemeveryday——whatwastohinderhimfromhavingagoodtimewiththem?IthinkBonnivard\'ssufferingshavebeenoverrated。
Next，wetookthetrainandwenttoMartigny，onthewaytoMontBlanc。Nextmorningwestarted，abouteighto\'clock，onfoot。Wehadplentyofcompany，inthewayofwagon-loadsandmule-loadsoftourists——anddust。
Thisscatteringprocessionoftravelerswasperhapsamilelong。Theroadwasuphill——interminableuphill——andtolerablysteep。Theweatherwasblisteringlyhot，andthemanorwomanwhohadtositonacreepingmule，orinacrawlingwagon，andbroilinthebeatingsun，wasanobjecttobepitied。Wecoulddodgeamongthebushes，andhavethereliefofshade，butthosepeoplecouldnot。
Theypaidforaconveyance，andtogettheirmoney\'sworththeyrode。
WewentbythewayoftheTe^teNoir，andafterwereachedhighgroundtherewasnolackoffinescenery。
Inoneplacetheroadwastunneledthroughashoulderofthemountain；fromthereonelookeddownintoagorgewitharushingtorrentinit，andoneveryhandwasacharmingviewofrockybuttressesandwoodedheights。
Therewasaliberalallowanceofprettywaterfalls，too，ontheTe^teNoirroute。
AbouthalfanhourbeforewereachedthevillageofArgentie`reavastdomeofsnowwiththesunblazingonitdriftedintoviewandframeditselfinastrongV-shapedgatewayofthemountains，andwerecognizedMontBlanc，the\"monarchoftheAlps。\"Witheverystep，afterthat，thisstatelydomerosehigherandhigherintothebluesky，andatlastseemedtooccupythezenith。
SomeofMontBlanc\'sneighbors——bare，light-brown，steeplelikerocks——wereverypeculiarlyshaped。Somewerewhittledtoasharppoint，andslightlybentattheupperend，likealady\'sfinger；onemonstersugar-loafresembledabishop\'shat；itwastoosteeptoholdsnowonitssides，buthadsomeinthedivision。
Whilewewerestillonveryhighground，andbeforethedescenttowardArgentie`rebegan，welookeduptowardaneighboringmountain-top，andsawexquisiteprismaticcolorsplayingaboutsomewhitecloudswhichweresodelicateastoalmostresemblegossamerwebs。
Thefaintpinksandgreenswerepeculiarlybeautiful；
noneofthecolorsweredeep，theywerethelightestshades。
Theywerebewitchingcommingled。Wesatdowntostudyandenjoythissingularspectacle。Thetintsremainedduringseveralminutes——fitting，changing，meltingintoeachother；
palingalmostawayforamoment，thenreflushing——ashifting，restless，unstablesuccessionofsoftopalinegleams，shimmeringoverthatairfilmofwhitecloud，andturningitintoafabricdaintyenoughtoclotheanangelwith。
Byandbyweperceivedwhatthosesuper-delicatecolors，andtheircontinuousplayandmovement，remindedusof；
itiswhatoneseesinasoap-bubblethatisdriftingalong，catchingchangesoftintfromtheobjectsitpasses。
Asoap-bubbleisthemostbeautifulthing，andthemostexquisite，innature；thatlovelyphantomfabricintheskywassuggestiveofasoap-bubblesplitopen，andspreadoutinthesun。Iwonderhowmuchitwouldtaketobuyasoap-bubble，iftherewasonlyoneintheworld?
OnecouldbuyahatfulofKoh-i-Noorswiththesamemoney，nodoubt。
WemadethetrampfromMartignytoArgentie`reineighthours。
Webeatallthemulesandwagons；wedidn\'tusuallydothat。
Wehiredasortofopenbaggage-wagonforthetripdownthevalleytoChamonix，andthendevotedanhourtodining。
Thisgavethedrivertimetogetdrunk。Hehadafriendwithhim，andthisfriendalsohadhadtimetogetdrunk。
Whenwedroveoff，thedriversaidallthetouristshadarrivedandgonebywhilewewereatdinner；\"but，\"saidhe，impressively，\"benotdisturbedbythat——remaintranquil——giveyourselvesnouneasiness——theirdustrisesfarbeforeus——
restyoutranquil，leavealltome——Iamthekingofdrivers。
Behold!\"
Downcamehiswhip，andawayweclattered。Ineverhadsuchashakingupinmylife。Therecentfloodingrainshadwashedtheroadclearawayinplaces，butweneverstopped，weneversloweddownforanything。Wetorerightalong，overrocks，rubbish，gullies，openfields——sometimeswithoneortwowheelsontheground，butgenerallywithnone。
Everynowandthenthatcalm，good-naturedmadmanwouldbendamajesticlookoverhisshoulderatusandsay，\"Ah，youperceive?ItisasIhavesaid——Iamthekingofdrivers。\"Everytimewejustmissedgoingtodestruction，hewouldsay，withtranquilhappiness，\"Enjoyit，gentlemen，itisveryrare，itisveryunusual——
itisgiventofewtoridewiththekingofdrivers——
andobserve，itisasIhavesaid，_I_amhe。\"
HespokeinFrench，andpunctuatedwithhiccoughs。
HisfriendwasFrench，too，butspokeinGerman——usingthesamesystemofpunctuation，however。Thefriendcalledhimselfthe\"CaptainofMontBlanc，\"andwantedustomaketheascentwithhim。Hesaidhehadmademoreascentsthananyotherman——fortyseven——andhisbrotherhadmadethirty-seven。Hisbrotherwasthebestguideintheworld，excepthimself——buthe，yes，observehimwell——hewasthe\"CaptainofMontBlanc\"——thattitlebelongedtononeother。
The\"king\"wasasgoodashisword——heovertookthatlongprocessionoftouristsandwentbyitlikeahurricane。
TheresultwasthatwegotchoicerroomsatthehotelinChamonixthanweshouldhavedoneifhismajestyhadbeenaslowerartist——orrather，ifhehadn\'tmostprovidentiallygotdrunkbeforeheleftArgentie`re。
CHAPTERXLIII
[MyPoorSickFriendDisappointed]
Everybodywasout-of-doors；everybodywasintheprincipalstreetofthevillage——notonthesidewalks，butalloverthestreet；everybodywaslounging，loafing，chatting，waiting，alert，expectant，interested——foritwastrain-time。Thatistosay，itwasdiligence-time——
thehalf-dozenbigdiligenceswouldsoonbearrivingfromGeneva，andthevillagewasinterested，inmanyways，inknowinghowmanypeoplewerecomingandwhatsortoffolktheymightbe。Itwasaltogetherthelivest-lookingstreetwehadseeninanyvillageonthecontinent。
Thehotelwasbythesideofaboomingtorrent，whosemusicwasloudandstrong；wecouldnotseethistorrent，foritwasdark，now，butonecouldlocateitwithoutalight。
Therewasalargeenclosedyardinfrontofthehotel，andthiswasfilledwithgroupsofvillagerswaitingtoseethediligencesarrive，ortohirethemselvestoexcursionistsforthemorrow。Atelescopestoodintheyard，withitshugebarrelcanteduptowardthelustrouseveningstar。
Thelongporchofthehotelwaspopulouswithtourists，whosatinshawlsandwrapsunderthevastovershadowingbulkofMontBlanc，andgossipedormeditated。
Neverdidamountainseemsoclose；itsbigsidesseemedatone\'sveryelbow，anditsmajesticdome，andtheloftyclusterofslenderminaretsthatwereitsneighbors，seemedtobealmostoverone\'shead。Itwasnightinthestreets，andthelampsweresparklingeverywhere；
thebroadbasesandshouldersofthemountainswereinadeepgloom，buttheirsummitsswaminastrangerichglowwhichwasreallydaylight，andyethadamellowsomethingaboutitwhichwasverydifferentfromthehardwhiteglareofthekindofdaylightIwasusedto。
Itsradiancewasstrongandclear，butatthesametimeitwassingularlysoft，andspiritual，andbenignant。
No，itwasnotourharsh，aggressive，realisticdaylight；
itseemedproperertoanenchantedland——ortoheaven。
Ihadseenmoonlightanddaylighttogetherbefore，butI
hadnotseendaylightandblacknightelbowtoelbowbefore。
AtleastIhadnotseenthedaylightrestinguponanobjectsufficientlycloseathand，before，tomakethecontraststartlingandatwarwithnature。
Thedaylightpassedaway。Presentlythemoonroseupbehindsomeofthosesky-piercingfingersorpinnaclesofbarerockofwhichIhavespoken——theywerealittletotheleftofthecrestofMontBlanc，andrightoverourheads——butshecouldn\'tmanagetoclimbhighenoughtowardheaventogetentirelyabovethem。
Shewouldshowtheglitteringarchofherupperthird，occasionally，andscrapeitalongbehindthecomblikerow；
sometimesapinnaclestoodstraightup，likeastatuetteofebony，againstthatglitteringwhiteshield，thenseemedtoglideoutofitbyitsownvolitionandpower，andbecomeadimspecter，whilethenextpinnacleglidedintoitsplaceandblottedthespotlessdiskwiththeblackexclamation-pointofitspresence。Thetopofonepinnacletooktheshapely，clean-cutformofarabbit\'shead，intheinkiestsilhouette，whileitrestedagainstthemoon。
Theunilluminedpeaksandminarets，hoveringvagueandphantom-likeaboveuswhiletheotherswerepainfullywhiteandstrongwithsnowandmoonlight，madeapeculiareffect。