Heshowedmeitspedigree，oritshistory，ifyouplease；
itwasadocumentwhichtracedthisplate\'smovementsallthewaydownfromitsbirth——showedwhoboughtit，fromwhom，andwhathepaidforit——fromthefirstbuyerdowntome，wherebyIsawthatithadgonesteadilyupfromthirty-fivecentstosevenhundreddollars。HesaidthatthewholeCeramicworldwouldbeinformedthatitwasnowinmypossessionandwouldmakeanoteofit，withthepricepaid。[Figure8]
TherewereMastersinthosedays，but，alas——itisnotsonow。
Ofcoursethemainpreciousnessofthispieceliesinitscolor；
itisthatoldsensuous，pervading，ramifying，interpolating，transborealbluewhichisthedespairofmodernart。
ThelittlesketchwhichIhavemadeofthisgemcannotanddoesnotdoitjustice，sinceIhavebeenobligedtoleaveoutthecolor。ButI\'vegottheexpression，though。
However，Imustnotbefritteringawaythereader\'stimewiththesedetails。Ididnotintendtogointoanydetailatall，atfirst，butitisthefailingofthetrueceramiker，orthetruedevoteeinanydepartmentofbrick-a-brackery，thatoncehegetshistongueorhispenstartedonhisdarlingtheme，hecannotwellstopuntilhedropsfromexhaustion。Hehasnomoresenseoftheflightoftimethanhasanyotherloverwhentalkingofhissweetheart。Thevery\"marks\"onthebottomofapieceofrarecrockeryareabletothrowmeintoagibberingecstasy；andIcouldforsakeadrowningrelativetohelpdisputeaboutwhetherthestoppleofadepartedBuonRetiroscent-bottlewasgenuineorspurious。
Manypeoplesaythatforamaleperson，bric-a-brachuntingisaboutasrobustabusinessasmakingdoll-clothes，ordecoratingJapanesepotswithdecalcomaniebutterflieswouldbe，andthesepeopleflingmudattheelegantEnglishman，Byng，whowroteabookcalledTHEBRIC-A-BRACHUNTER，andmakefunofhimforchasingaroundafterwhattheychoosetocall\"hisdespicabletrifles\"；andfor\"gushing\"overthesetrifles；andforexhibitinghis\"deepinfantiledelight\"
inwhattheycallhis\"tuppennycollectionofbeggarlytrivialities\"；andforbeginninghisbookwithapictureofhimselfseated，ina\"sappy，self-complacentattitude，inthemidstofhispoorlittleridiculousbric-a-bracjunkshop。\"
Itiseasytosaythesethings；itiseasytorevileus，easytodespiseus；therefore，letthesepeoplerailon；
theycannotfeelasByngandIfeel——itistheirloss，notours。FormypartIamcontenttobeabrick-a-brackerandaceramiker——more，Iamproudtobesonamed。
IamproudtoknowthatIlosemyreasonasimmediatelyinthepresenceofararejugwithanillustriousmarkonthebottomofit，asifIhadjustemptiedthatjug。
Verywell；Ipackedandstoredapartofmycollection，andtherestofitIplacedinthecareoftheGrandDucalMuseuminMannheim，bypermission。MyOldBlueChinaCatremainsthereyet。Ipresentedittothatexcellentinstitution。
Ihadbutonemisfortunewithmythings。AneggwhichI
hadkeptbackfrombreakfastthatmorning，wasbrokeninpacking。Itwasagreatpity。IhadshownittothebestconnoisseursinHeidelberg，andtheyallsaiditwasanantique。Wespentadayortwoinfarewellvisits，andthenleftforBaden-Baden。Wehadapleasanttriptoit，fortheRhinevalleyisalwayslovely。
Theonlytroublewasthatthetripwastooshort。
IfIrememberrightlyitonlyoccupiedacoupleofhours，thereforeIjudgethatthedistancewasverylittle，ifany，overfiftymiles。WequittedthetrainatOos，andwalkedtheentireremainingdistancetoBaden-Baden，withtheexceptionofaliftoflessthananhourwhichwegotonapassingwagon，theweatherbeingexhaustinglywarm。
Wecameintotownonfoot。
Oneofthefirstpersonsweencountered，aswewalkedupthestreet，wastheRev。Mr——，anoldfriendfromAmerica——aluckyencounter，indeed，forhisisamostgentle，refined，andsensitivenature，andhiscompanyandcompanionshipareagenuinerefreshment。
WeknewhehadbeeninEuropesometime，butwerenotatallexpectingtorunacrosshim。Bothpartiesburstforthintolovingenthusiasms，andRev。Mr——said:
\"Ihavegotabrimfulreservoiroftalktopouroutonyou，andanemptyonereadyandthirstingtoreceivewhatyouhavegot；wewillsituptillmidnightandhaveagoodsatisfyinginterchange，forIleavehereearlyinthemorning。\"Weagreedtothat，ofcourse。
Ihadbeenvaguelyconscious，forawhile，ofapersonwhowaswalkinginthestreetabreastofus；Ihadglancedfurtivelyathimonceortwice，andnoticedthathewasafine，large，vigorousyoungfellow，withanopen，independentcountenance，faintlyshadedwithapaleandevenalmostimperceptiblecropofearlydown，andthathewasclothedfromheadtoheelincoolandenviablesnow-whitelinen。IthoughtIhadalsonoticedthathisheadhadasortoflisteningtilttoit。
NowaboutthistimetheRev。Mr——said:
\"Thesidewalkishardlywideenoughforthree，soIwillwalkbehind；butkeepthetalkgoing，keepthetalkgoing，there\'snotimetolose，andyoumaybesureIwilldomyshare。\"Herangedhimselfbehindus，andstraightwaythatstatelysnow-whiteyoungfellowcloseduptothesidewalkalongsidehim，fetchedhimacordialslapontheshoulderwithhisbroadpalm，andsungoutwithaheartycheeriness:
\"AMERICANSfortwo-and-a-halfandthemoneyup!HEY?\"
TheReverendwinced，butsaidmildly:
\"Yes——weareAmericans。\"
\"Lordloveyou，youcanjustbetthat\'swhat_I_am，everytime!Putitthere!\"
HeheldouthisSaharaofhispalm，andtheReverendlaidhisdiminutivehandinit，andgotsocordialashakethatweheardhisgloveburstunderit。
\"Say，didn\'tIputyouupright?\"
\"Oh，yes。\"
\"Sho!IspottedyouforMYkindtheminuteIheardyourclack。Youbeenoverherelong?\"
\"Aboutfourmonths。Haveyoubeenoverlong?\"
\"LONG?Well，Ishouldsayso!GoingontwoYEARS，bygeeminy!Say，areyouhomesick?\"
\"No，Ican\'tsaythatIam。Areyou?\"
\"Oh，HELL，yes!\"Thiswithimmenseenthusiasm。
TheReverendshrunkalittle，inhisclothes，andwewereaware，ratherbyinstinctthanotherwise，thathewasthrowingoutsignalsofdistresstous；butwedidnotinterfereortrytosuccorhim，forwewerequitehappy。
TheyoungfellowhookedhisarmintotheReverend\'s，now，withtheconfidingandgratefulairofawaifwhohasbeenlongingforafriend，andasympatheticear，andachancetolisponcemorethesweetaccentsofthemother-tongue——andthenhelimberedupthemusclesofhismouthandturnedhimselfloose——andwithsucharelish!SomeofhiswordswerenotSunday-schoolwords，soIamobligedtoputblankswheretheyoccur。
\"Yesindeedy!If_I_ain\'tanAmericanthereAIN\'T
anyAmericans，that\'sall。AndwhenIheardyoufellowsgassingawayinthegoodoldAmericanlanguage，I\'m——
ifitwasn\'tallIcoulddotokeepfromhuggingyou!Mytongue\'sallwarpedwithtryingtocurlitaroundthese——forsakenwind-gallednine-jointedGermanwordshere；
nowITELLyouit\'sawfulgoodtolayitoveraChristianwordoncemoreandkindoflettheoldtastesoakit。
I\'mfromwesternNewYork。MynameisCholleyAdams。
I\'mastudent，youknow。Beenheregoingontwoyears。
I\'mlearningtobeahorse-doctor!ILIKEthatpartofit，youknow，but——thesepeople，theywon\'tlearnafellowinhisownlanguage，theymakehimlearninGerman；sobeforeIcouldtacklethehorse-doctoringIhadtotacklethismiserablelanguage。
\"Firstoff，Ithoughtitwouldcertainlygivemethebotts，butIdon\'tmindnow。I\'vegotitwherethehair\'sshort，Ithink；anddontchuknow，theymademelearnLatin，too。Nowbetweenyouandme，Iwouldn\'tgivea——foralltheLatinthatwaseverjabbered；
andthefirstthing_I_calculatetodowhenIgetthrough，istojustsitdownandforgetit。\'Twon\'ttakemelong，andIdon\'tmindthetime，anyway。AndItellyouwhat!
thedifferencebetweenschool-teachingoveryonderandschool-teachingoverhere——sho!WEdon\'tknowanythingaboutit!Hereyou\'regottopegandpegandpegandtherejustain\'tanylet-up——andwhatyoulearnhere，you\'vegottoKNOW，dontchuknow——orelseyou\'llhaveoneofthese——spavined，spectacles，ring-boned，knock-kneedoldprofessorsinyourhair。I\'vebeenherelongENOUGH，andI\'mgettingblessedtiredofit，mindITELLyou。
TheoldmanwrotemethathewascomingoverinJune，andsaidhe\'dtakemehomeinAugust，whetherIwasdonewithmyeducationornot，butdurnhim，hedidn\'tcome；
neversaidwhy；justsentmeahamperofSunday-schoolbooks，andtoldmetobegood，andholdonawhile。
Idon\'ttaketoSunday-schoolbooks，dontchuknow——I
don\'thankerafterthemwhenIcangetpie——butI
READthem，anyway，becausewhatevertheoldmantellsmetodo，that\'sthethingthatI\'ma-goingtoDO，ortearsomething，youknow。Ibuckledinandreadallthosebooks，becausehewantedmeto；butthatkindofthingdon\'texciteME，IlikesomethingHEARTY。
ButI\'mawfulhomesick。I\'mhomesickfromear-sockettocrupper，andfromcruppertohock-joint；butitain\'tanyuse，I\'vegottostayhere，tilltheoldmandropstheragandgivetheword——yes，SIR，righthereinthis——countryI\'vegottolingertilltheoldmansaysCOME!——andyoubetyourbottomdollar，Johnny，itAIN\'T
justaseasyasitisforacattohavetwins!\"
Attheendofthisprofaneandcordialexplosionhefetchedaprodigious\"WHOOSH!\"torelievehislungsandmakerecognitionoftheheat，andthenhestraightwaydivedintohisnarrativeagainfor\"Johnny\'s\"benefit，beginning，\"Well，——itain\'tanyusetalking，someofthoseoldAmericanwordsDOhaveakindofabullyswingtothem；amancanEXPRESShimselfwith\'em——amancangetatwhathewantstoSAY，dontchuknow。\"
WhenwereachedourhotelanditseemedthathewasabouttolosetheReverend，heshowedsomuchsorrow，andbeggedsohardandsoearnestlythattheReverend\'sheartwasnothardenoughtoholdoutagainstthepleadings——
sohewentawaywiththeparent-honoringstudent，likearightChristian，andtooksupperwithhiminhislodgings，andsatinthesurf-beatofhisslangandprofanitytillnearmidnight，andthenlefthim——lefthimprettywelltalkedout，butgrateful\"cleardowntohisfrogs，\"
asheexpressedit。TheReverendsaidithadtranspiredduringtheinterviewthat\"Cholley\"Adams\'sfatherwasanextensivedealerinhorsesinwesternNewYork；
thisaccountedforCholley\'schoiceofaprofession。
TheReverendbroughtawayaprettyhighopinionofCholleyasamanlyyoungfellow，withstuffinhimforausefulcitizen；heconsideredhimratheraroughgem，butagem，nevertheless。
CHAPTERXXI
[InsolentShopkeepersandGabblingAmericans]
Baden-Badensitsinthelapofthehills，andthenaturalandartificialbeautiesofthesurroundingsarecombinedeffectivelyandcharmingly。Thelevelstripofgroundwhichstretchesthroughandbeyondthetownislaidoutinhandsomepleasuregrounds，shadedbynobletreesandadornedatintervalswithloftyandsparklingfountain-jets。ThriceadayafinebandmakesmusicinthepublicpromenadebeforetheConversationHouse，andintheafternoonandeveningthatlocalityispopulouswithfashionablydressedpeopleofbothsexes，whomarchbackandforthpastthegreatmusic-standandlookverymuchbored，thoughtheymakeashowoffeelingotherwise。
Itseemslikearatheraimlessandstupidexistence。
Agoodmanyofthesepeoplearethereforarealpurpose，however；theyarerackedwithrheumatism，andtheyaretheretostewitoutinthehotbaths。
Theseinvalidslookedmelancholyenough，limpingaboutontheircanesandcrutches，andapparentlybroodingoverallsortsofcheerlessthings。PeoplesaythatGermany，withherdampstonehouses，isthehomeofrheumatism。
Ifthatisso，Providencemusthaveforeseenthatitwouldbeso，andthereforefilledthelandwiththehealingbaths。PerhapsnoothercountryissogenerouslysuppliedwithmedicinalspringsasGermany。Someofthesebathsaregoodforoneailment，someforanother；
andagain，peculiarailmentsareconqueredbycombiningtheindividualvirtuesofseveraldifferentbaths。
Forinstance，forsomeformsofdisease，thepatientdrinksthenativehotwaterofBaden-Baden，withaspoonfulofsaltfromtheCarlsbadspringsdissolvedinit。
Thatisnotadosetobeforgottenrightaway。
Theydon\'tSELLthishotwater；no，yougointothegreatTrinkhalle，andstandaround，firstononefootandthenontheother，whiletwoorthreeyounggirlssitpotteringatsomesortofladylikesewing-workinyourneighborhoodandcan\'tseemtoseeyou——politeasthree-dollarclerksingovernmentoffices。
Byandbyoneoftheserisespainfully，and\"stretches\"——stretchesfistsandbodyheavenwardtillsheraisesherheelsfromthefloor，atthesametimerefreshingherselfwithayawnofsuchcomprehensivenessthatthebulkofherfacedisappearsbehindherupperlipandoneisabletoseehowsheisconstructedinside——thensheslowlycloseshercavern，bringsdownherfistsandherheels，comeslanguidlyforward，contemplatesyoucontemptuously，drawsyouaglassofhotwaterandsetsitdownwhereyoucangetitbyreachingforit。Youtakeitandsay:
\"Howmuch?\"——andshereturnsyou，withelaborateindifference，abeggar\'sanswer:
\"NACHBELIEBE\"whatyouplease。
Thisthingofusingthecommonbeggar\'strickandthecommonbeggar\'sshibbolethtoputyouonyourliberalitywhenyouwereexpectingasimplestraightforwardcommercialtransaction，addsalittletoyourprosperingsenseofirritation。
Youignoreherreply，andaskagain:
\"Howmuch?\"——
andshecalmly，indifferently，repeats:
\"NACHBELIEBE。\"
Youaregettingangry，butyouaretryingnottoshowit；
youresolvetokeeponaskingyourquestiontillshechangesheranswer，oratleastherannoyinglyindifferentmanner。
Therefore，ifyourcasebelikemine，youtwofoolsstandthere，andwithoutperceptibleemotionofanykind，oranyemphasisonanysyllable，youlookblandlyintoeachother\'seyes，andholdthefollowingidioticconversation:
\"Howmuch?\"
\"NACHBELIEBE。\"
\"Howmuch?\"
\"NACHBELIEBE。\"
\"Howmuch?\"
\"NACHBELIEBE。\"
\"Howmuch?\"
\"NACHBELIEBE。\"
\"Howmuch?\"
\"NACHBELIEBE。\"
\"Howmuch?\"
\"NACHBELIEBE。\"
Idonotknowwhatanotherpersonwouldhavedone，butatthispointIgaveup；thatcast-ironindifference，thattranquilcontemptuousness，conqueredme，andIstruckmycolors。NowIknewshewasusedtoreceivingaboutapennyfrommanlypeoplewhocarenothingabouttheopinionsofscullery-maids，andabouttuppencefrommoralcowards；
butIlaidasilvertwenty-fivecentpiecewithinherreachandtriedtoshrivelherupwiththissarcasticspeech:
\"Ifitisn\'tenough，willyoustoopsufficientlyfromyourofficialdignitytosayso?\"
Shedidnotshrivel。Withoutdeigningtolookatmeatall，shelanguidlyliftedthecoinandbitit!——toseeifitwasgood。Thensheturnedherbackandplacidlywaddledtoherformerroostagain，tossingthemoneyintoanopentillasshewentalong。Shewasvictortothelast，yousee。
Ihaveenlargeduponthewaysofthisgirlbecausetheyaretypical；hermannersarethemannersofagoodlynumberoftheBaden-Badenshopkeepers。Theshopkeeperthereswindlesyouifhecan，andinsultsyouwhetherhesucceedsinswindlingyouornot。Thekeepersofbathsalsotakegreatandpatientpainstoinsultyou。
ThefrowsywomanwhosatatthedeskinthelobbyofthegreatFriederichsbadandsoldbathtickets，notonlyinsultedmetwiceeveryday，withrigidfidelitytohergreattrust，butshetooktroubleenoughtocheatmeoutofashilling，oneday，tohavefairlyentitledhertoten。Baden-Baden\'ssplendidgamblersaregone，onlyhermicroscopicknavesremain。
AnEnglishgentlemanwhohadbeenlivingthereseveralyears，said:
\"Ifyoucoulddisguiseyournationality，youwouldnotfindanyinsolencehere。TheseshopkeepersdetesttheEnglishanddespisetheAmericans；theyarerudetoboth，moreespeciallytoladiesofyournationalityandmine。
Ifthesegoshoppingwithoutagentlemanoraman-servant，theyaretolerablysuretobesubjectedtopettyinsolences——
insolencesofmannerandtone，ratherthanword，thoughwordsthatarehardtobeararenotalwayswanting。
IknowofaninstancewhereashopkeepertossedacoinbacktoanAmericanladywiththeremark，snappishlyuttered，\'Wedon\'ttakeFrenchmoneyhere。\'AndIknowofacasewhereanEnglishladysaidtooneoftheseshopkeepers，\'Don\'tyouthinkyouasktoomuchforthisarticle?\'
andherepliedwiththequestion，\'Doyouthinkyouareobligedtobuyit?\'However，thesepeoplearenotimpolitetoRussiansorGermans。Andastorank，theyworshipthat，fortheyhavelongbeenusedtogeneralsandnobles。
Ifyouwishtoseewhatabyssesservilitycandescend，presentyourselfbeforeaBaden-BadenshopkeeperinthecharacterofaRussianprince。\"
Itisaninanetown，filledwithsham，andpettyfraud，andsnobbery，butthebathsaregood。Ispokewithmanypeople，andtheywereallagreedinthat。Ihadthetwingesofrheumatismunceasinglyduringthreeyears，butthelastonedepartedafterafortnight\'sbathingthere，andIhaveneverhadonesince。IfullybelieveIleftmyrheumatisminBaden-Baden。Baden-Badeniswelcometoit。
Itwaslittle，butitwasallIhadtogive。Iwouldhavepreferredtoleavesomethingthatwascatching，butitwasnotinmypower。
Thereareseveralhotspringsthere，andduringtwothousandyearstheyhavepouredforthanever-diminishingabundanceofthehealingwater。Thiswaterisconductedinpipetothenumerousbath-houses，andisreducedtoanendurabletemperaturebytheadditionofcoldwater。
ThenewFriederichsbadisaverylargeandbeautifulbuilding，andinitonemayhaveanysortofbaththathaseverbeeninvented，andwithalltheadditionsofherbsanddrugsthathisailmentmayneedorthatthephysicianoftheestablishmentmayconsiderausefulthingtoputintothewater。Yougothere，enterthegreatdoor，getabowgraduatedtoyourstyleandclothesfromthegorgeousportier，andabathticketandaninsultfromthefrowsywomanforaquarter；shestrikesabellandaserving-manconductsyoudownalonghallandshutsyouintoacommodiousroomwhichhasawashstand，amirror，abootjack，andasofainit，andthereyouundressatyourleisure。
Theroomisdividedbyagreatcurtain；youdrawthiscurtainaside，andfindalargewhitemarblebathtub，withitsrimsunktothelevelofthefloor，andwiththreewhitemarblestepsleadingdowntoit。
Thistubisfullofwaterwhichisasclearascrystal，andistemperedto28degreesRe\'aumurabout95degreesFahrenheit。Sunkintothefloor，bythetub，isacoveredcopperboxwhichcontainssomewarmtowelsandasheet。
Youlookfullyaswhiteasanangelwhenyouarestretchedoutinthatlimpidbath。Youremaininittenminutes，thefirsttime，andafterwardincreasethedurationfromdaytoday，tillyoureachtwenty-fiveorthirtyminutes。
Thereyoustop。Theappointmentsoftheplacearesoluxurious，thebenefitsomarked，thepricesomoderate，andtheinsultssosure，thatyouverysoonfindyourselfadoringtheFriederichsbadandinfestingit。
Wehadaplain，simple，unpretending，goodhotel，inBaden-Baden——theHo^teldeFrance——andalongsidemyroomIhadagiggling，cackling，chatteringfamilywhoalwayswenttobedjusttwohoursaftermeandalwaysgotuptwohoursaheadofme。ButthisiscommoninGermanhotels；
thepeoplegenerallygotobedlongafterelevenandgetuplongbeforeeight。Thepartitionsconveysoundlikeadrum-head，andeverybodyknowsit；butnomatter，aGermanfamilywhoareallkindnessandconsiderationinthedaytimemakeapparentlynoefforttomoderatetheirnoisesforyourbenefitatnight。Theywillsing，laugh，andtalkloudly，andbangfurniturearoundinamostpitilessway。Ifyouknockonyourwallappealingly，theywillquietdownanddiscussthemattersoftlyamongthemselvesforamoment——then，likethemice，theyfalltopersecutingyouagain，andasvigorouslyasbefore。
Theykeepcruellylateandearlyhours，forsuchnoisyfolk。
Ofcourse，whenonebeginstofindfaultwithforeignpeople\'sways，heisverylikelytogetaremindertolooknearerhome，beforehegetsfarwithit。Iopenmynote-booktoseeifIcanfindsomemoreinformationofavaluablenatureaboutBaden-Baden，andthefirstthingIfalluponisthis:
\"BADEN-BADENnodate。LotofvociferousAmericansatbreakfastthismorning。TalkingATeverybody，whilepretendingtotalkamongthemselves。Ontheirfirsttravels，manifestly。Showingoff。Theusualsigns——airy，easy-goingreferencestogranddistancesandforeignplaces。\'WellGOOD-by，oldfellow——
ifIdon\'trunacrossyouinItaly，youhuntmeupinLondonbeforeyousail。\'\"
ThenextitemwhichIfindinmynote-bookisthisone:
\"Thefactthatabandof6，000Indiansarenowmurderingourfrontiersmenattheirimpudentleisure，andthatweareonlyabletosend1，200soldiersagainstthem，isutilizedheretodiscourageemigrationtoAmerica。
ThecommonpeoplethinktheIndiansareinNewJersey。\"
Thisisanewandpeculiarargumentagainstkeepingourarmydowntoaridiculousfigureinthematterofnumbers。
Itisratherastrikingone，too。Ihavenotdistortedthetruthinsayingthatthefactsintheaboveitem，aboutthearmyandtheIndians，aremadeuseoftodiscourageemigrationtoAmerica。Thatthecommonpeopleshouldberatherfoggyintheirgeography，andfoggyastothelocationoftheIndians，isamatterforamusement，maybe，butnotofsurprise。
ThereisaninterestingoldcemeteryinBaden-Baden，andwespentseveralpleasanthoursinwanderingthroughitandspellingouttheinscriptionsontheagedtombstones。
Apparentlyafteramanhaslaidthereacenturyortwo，andhashadagoodmanypeopleburiedontopofhim，itisconsideredthathistombstoneisnotneededbyhimanylonger。Ijudgesofromthefactthathundredsofoldgravestoneshavebeenremovedfromthegravesandplacedagainsttheinnerwallsofthecemetery。
Whatartiststheyhadintheoldtimes!Theychiseledangelsandcherubsanddevilsandskeletonsonthetombstonesinthemostlavishandgenerousway——astosupply——butcuriouslygrotesqueandoutlandishastoform。Itisnotalwayseasytotellwhichofthefiguresbelongamongtheblestandwhichofthemamongtheoppositeparty。
Buttherewasaninscription，inFrench，ononeofthoseoldstones，whichwasquaintandpretty，andwasplainlynottheworkofanyotherthanapoet。Itwastothiseffect:
HereReposesinGod，CarolinedeClery，aReligieuseofSt。Denisaged83years——andblind。ThelightwasrestoredtoherinBadenthe5thofJanuary，1839
Wemadeseveralexcursionsonfoottotheneighboringvillages，overwindingandbeautifulroadsandthroughenchantingwoodlandscenery。ThewoodsandroadsweresimilartothoseatHeidelberg，butnotsobewitching。IsupposethatroadsandwoodswhichareuptotheHeidelbergmarkarerareintheworld。
OncewewanderedclearawaytoLaFavoritaPalace，whichisseveralmilesfromBaden-Baden。Thegroundsaboutthepalacewerefine；thepalacewasacuriosity。
ItwasbuiltbyaMargravinein1725，andremainsassheleftitatherdeath。Wewanderedthroughagreatmanyofitsrooms，andtheyallhadstrikingpeculiaritiesofdecoration。Forinstance，thewallsofoneroomwereprettycompletelycoveredwithsmallpicturesoftheMargravineinallconceivablevarietiesoffancifulcostumes，someofthemmale。
Thewallsofanotherroomwerecoveredwithgrotesquelyandelaboratelyfiguredhand-wroughttapestry。
Themustyancientbedsremainedinthechambers，andtheirquiltsandcurtainsandcanopiesweredecoratedwithcurioushandwork，andthewallsandceilingsfrescoedwithhistoricalandmythologicalscenesinglaringcolors。
Therewasenoughcrazyandrottenrubbishinthebuildingtomakeatruebrick-a-brackergreenwithenvy。
Apaintinginthedining-hallvergedupontheindelicate——
butthentheMargravinewasherselfatrifleindelicate。
Itisineverywayawildlyandpicturesquelydecoratedhouse，andbrimfulofinterestasareflectionofthecharacterandtastesofthatrudebygonetime。
Inthegrounds，afewrodsfromthepalace，standstheMargravine\'schapel，justassheleftit——acoarsewoodenstructure，whollybarrenofornament。ItissaidthattheMargravinewouldgiveherselfuptodebaucheryandexceedinglyfastlivingforseveralmonthsatatime，andthenretiretothismiserablewoodendenandspendafewmonthsinrepentingandgettingreadyforanothergoodtime。ShewasadevotedCatholic，andwasperhapsquiteamodelsortofaChristianasChristianswentthen，inhighlife。
TraditionsaysshespentthelasttwoyearsofherlifeinthestrangedenIhavebeenspeakingof，afterhavingindulgedherselfinonefinal，triumphant，andsatisfyingspree。
Sheshutherselfupthere，withoutcompany，andwithoutevenaservant，andsoabjuredandforsooktheworld。
Inherlittlebitofakitchenshedidherowncooking；
sheworeahairshirtnexttheskin，andcastigatedherselfwithwhips——theseaidstograceareexhibitedthereyet。
Sheprayedandtoldherbeads，inanotherlittleroom，beforeawaxenVirginnichedinalittleboxagainstthewall；
shebeddedherselflikeaslave。
Inanothersmallroomisanunpaintedwoodentable，andbehinditsithalf-life-sizewaxenfiguresoftheHolyFamily，madebytheveryworstartistthateverlived，perhaps，andclothedingaudy，flimsydrapery。
[1]ThemargravineusedtobringhermealstothistableandDINEWITHTHEHOLYFAMILY。Whatanideathatwas!
Whatagrislyspectacleitmusthavebeen!Imagineit:
Thoserigid，shock-headedfigures，withcorpsycomplexionsandfishglasseyes，occupyingonesideofthetableintheconstrainedattitudesanddeadfixednessthatdistinquishallmenthatarebornofwax，andthiswrinkled，smolderingoldfire-eateroccupyingtheotherside，mumblingherprayersandmunchinghersausagesintheghostlystillnessandshadowyindistinctnessofawintertwilight。
Itmakesonefeelcrawlyeventothinkofit。
1。TheSaviorwasrepresentedasaladofaboutfifteenyearsofage。Thisfigurehadlostoneeye。
Inthissordidplace，andclothed，bedded，andfedlikeapauper，thisstrangeprincesslivedandworshipedduringtwoyears，andinitshedied。Twoorthreehundredyearsago，thiswouldhavemadethepoordenholyground；
andthechurchwouldhavesetupamiracle-factorythereandmadeplentyofmoneyoutofit。ThedencouldbemovedintosomeportionsofFranceandmadeagoodpropertyevennow。
CHAPTERXXII
[TheBlackForestandItsTreasures]
FromBaden-BadenwemadethecustomarytripintotheBlackForest。Wewereonfootmostofthetime。Onecannotdescribethosenoblewoods，northefeelingwithwhichtheyinspirehim。Afeatureofthefeeling，however，isadeepsenseofcontentment；anotherfeatureofitisabuoyant，boyishgladness；andathirdandveryconspicuousfeatureofitisone\'ssenseoftheremotenessofthework-dayworldandhisentireemancipationfromitanditsaffairs。
Thosewoodsstretchunbrokenoveravastregion；
andeverywheretheyaresuchdensewoods，andsostill，andsopineyandfragrant。Thestemsofthetreesaretrimandstraight，andinmanyplacesallthegroundishiddenformilesunderathickcushionofmossofavividgreencolor，withnotadecayedorraggedspotinitssurface，andnotafallenleafortwigtomaritsimmaculatetidiness。
Arichcathedralgloompervadesthepillaredaisles；
sothestrayflecksofsunlightthatstrikeatrunkhereandaboughyonderarestronglyaccented，andwhentheystrikethemosstheyfairlyseemtoburn。
Buttheweirdesteffect，andthemostenchantingisthatproducedbythediffusedlightofthelowafternoonsun；
nosinglerayisabletopierceitswayin，then，butthediffusedlighttakescolorfrommossandfoliage，andpervadestheplacelikeafaint，greet-tintedmist，thetheatricalfireoffairyland。Thesuggestionofmysteryandthesupernaturalwhichhauntstheforestatalltimesisintensifiedbythisunearthlyglow。
WefoundtheBlackForestfarmhousesandvillagesallthattheBlackForeststorieshavepicturedthem。
ThefirstgenuinespecimenwhichwecameuponwasthemansionofarichfarmerandmemberoftheCommonCounciloftheparishordistrict。Hewasanimportantpersonageinthelandandsowashiswifealso，ofcourse。Hisdaughterwasthe\"catch\"oftheregion，andshemaybealreadyenteringintoimmortalityastheheroineofoneofAuerbach\'snovels，forallIknow。
Weshallsee，forifheputsherinIshallrecognizeherbyherBlackForestclothes，andherburnedcomplexion，herplumpfigure，herfathands，herdullexpression，hergentlespirit，hergenerousfeet，herbonnetlesshead，andtheplaitedtailsofhemp-coloredhairhangingdownherback。
Thehousewasbigenoughforahotel；itwasahundredfeetlongandfiftywide，andtenfeethigh，fromgroundtoeaves；butfromtheeavestothecombofthemightyroofwasasmuchasfortyfeet，ormaybeevenmore。Thisroofwasofancientmud-coloredstrawthatchafootthick，andwascoveredallover，exceptinafewtriflingspots，withathrivingandluxuriousgrowthofgreenvegetation，mainlymoss。Themosslessspotswereplaceswhererepairshadbeenmadebytheinsertionofbrightnewmassesofyellowstraw。Theeavesprojectedfardown，likesheltering，hospitablewings。Acrossthegablethatfrontedtheroad，andabouttenfeetabovetheground，rananarrowporch，withawoodenrailing；arowofsmallwindowsfilledwithverysmallpaneslookedupontheporch。Aboveweretwoorthreeotherlittlewindows，oneclearupunderthesharpapexoftheroof。
Beforetheground-floordoorwasahugepileofmanure。
Thedoorofthesecond-storyroomonthesideofthehousewasopen，andoccupiedbytherearelevationofacow。
Wasthisprobablythedrawing-room?Allofthefronthalfofthehousefromthegroundupseemedtobeoccupiedbythepeople，thecows，andthechickens，andalltherearhalfbydraught-animalsandhay。
Butthechieffeature，allaroundthishouse，wasthebigheapsofmanure。
WebecameveryfamiliarwiththefertilizerintheForest。
Wefellunconsciouslyintothehabitofjudgingofaman\'sstationinlifebythisoutwardandeloquentsign。
Sometimeswesaid，\"Hereisapoordevil，thisismanifest。\"
Whenwesawastatelyaccumulation，wesaid，\"Hereisabanker。\"Whenweencounteredacountry-seatsurroundedbyanAlpinepompofmanure，wesaid，\"Doubtlessadukeliveshere。\"
TheimportanceofthisfeaturehasnotbeenproperlymagnifiedintheBlackForeststories。ManureisevidentlytheBlack-Forester\'smaintreasure——hiscoin，hisjewel，hispride，hisOldMaster，hisceramics，hisbric-a-brac，hisdarling，histitletopublicconsideration，envy，veneration，andhisfirstsolicitudewhenhegetsreadytomakehiswill。ThetrueBlackForestnovel，ifitiseverwritten，willbeskeletonedsomewhatinthisway:
SKELETONFORABLACKFORESTNOVEL