Thereforeitisrefreshingtolearnnow，severalmonthsaftertheabovenarrativewaswritten，thatanothermanreceivedallthecreditofthisrescueofthecolonists。Suchislife。AlexandriawastoomuchlikeaEuropeancitytobenovel，andwesoontiredofit。WetookthecarsandcameupheretoancientCairo，whichisanOrientalcityandofthecompletestpattern。Thereislittleaboutittodisabuseone\'smindoftheerrorifheshouldtakeitintohisheadthathewasintheheartofArabia。Statelycamelsanddromedaries，swarthyEgyptians，andlikewiseTurksandblackEthiopians，turbaned，sashed，andblazinginarichvarietyofOrientalcostumesofallshadesofflashycolors，arewhatoneseesoneveryhandcrowdingthenarrowstreetsandthehoneycombedbazaars。WearestoppingatShepherd\'sHotel，whichistheworstonearthexcepttheoneIstoppedatonceinasmalltownintheUnitedStates。Itispleasanttoreadthissketchinmynote—book，now，andknowthatIcanstandShepherd\'sHotel，sure，becauseIhavebeeninonejustlikeitinAmericaandsurvived:IstoppedattheBentonHouse。Itusedtobeagoodhotel，butthatprovesnothing——Iusedtobeagoodboy，forthatmatter。Bothofushavelostcharacteroflateyears。TheBentonisnotagoodhotel。
TheBentonlacksaverygreatdealofbeingagoodhotel。PerditionisfullofbetterhotelsthantheBenton。ItwaslateatnightwhenIgotthere，andItoldtheclerkIwouldlikeplentyoflights，becauseIwantedtoreadanhourortwo。
WhenIreachedNo。15withtheporter（wecamealongadimhallthatwascladinancientcarpeting，faded，wornoutinmanyplaces，andpatchedwitholdscrapsofoilcloth——ahallthatsankunderone\'sfeet，andcreakeddismallytoeveryfootstep，）hestruckalight——twoinchesofsallow，sorrowful，consumptivetallowcandle，thatburnedblue，andsputtered，andgotdiscouragedandwentout。Theporterlititagain，andIaskedifthatwasallthelighttheclerksent。Hesaid，\"Ohno，I\'vegotanotheronehere，\"andheproducedanothercoupleofinchesoftallowcandle。Isaid，\"Lightthemboth——I\'llhavetohaveonetoseetheotherby。\"Hedidit，buttheresultwasdrearierthandarknessitself。Hewasacheery，accommodatingrascal。
Hesaidhewouldgo\"somewheres\"andstealalamp。Iabettedandencouragedhiminhiscriminaldesign。Iheardthelandlordgetafterhiminthehalltenminutesafterward。\"Whereareyougoingwiththatlamp？\"\"Fifteenwantsit，sir。\"\"Fifteen！whyhe\'sgotadoublelotofcandles——doesthemanwanttoilluminatethehouse？——doeshewanttogetupatorch—lightprocession？——whatisheupto，anyhow？\"\"Hedon\'tlikethemcandles——sayshewantsalamp。\"\"Whywhatinthenationdoes——whyIneverheardofsuchathing？
Whatonearthcanhewantwiththatlamp？\"\"Well，heonlywantstoread——that\'swhathesays。\"\"Wantstoread，doeshe？——ain\'tsatisfiedwithathousandcandles，buthastohavealamp！——Idowonderwhatthedevilthatfellowwantsthatlampfor？Takehimanothercandle，andthenif——\"\"Buthewantsthelamp——sayshe\'llburnthed——doldhousedownifhedon\'tgetalamp！\"（aremarkwhichInevermade。）\"I\'dliketoseehimatitonce。Well，youtakeitalong——butIswearitbeatsmytime，though——andseeifyoucan\'tfindoutwhatintheverynationhewantswiththatlamp。\"AndhewentoffgrowlingtohimselfandstillwonderingandwonderingovertheunaccountableconductofNo。15。Thelampwasagoodone，butitrevealedsomedisagreeablethings——abedinthesuburbsofadesertofroom——abedthathadhillsandvalleysinit，andyou\'dhavetoaccommodateyourbodytotheimpressionleftinitbythemanthatslepttherelast，beforeyoucouldliecomfortably;acarpetthathadseenbetterdays;amelancholywashstandinaremotecorner，andadejectedpitcheronitsorrowingoverabrokennose;alooking—glasssplitacrossthecentre，whichchoppedyourheadoffatthechinandmadeyoulooklikesomedreadfulunfinishedmonsterorother;thepaperpeelinginshredsfromthewalls。Isighedandsaid:\"Thisischarming;andnowdon\'tyouthinkyoucouldgetmesomethingtoread？\"Theportersaid，\"Oh，certainly;theoldman\'sgotdeadloadsofbooks;\"andhewasgonebeforeIcouldtellhimwhatsortofliteratureIwouldratherhave。Andyethiscountenanceexpressedtheutmostconfidenceinhisabilitytoexecutethecommissionwithcredittohimself。Theoldmanmadeadescentonhim。\"Whatareyougoingtodowiththatpileofbooks？\"\"Fifteenwants\'em，sir。\"\"Fifteen，isit？He\'llwantawarming—pan，next——he\'llwantanurse！Takehimeverythingthereisinthehouse——takehimthebar—keeper——takehimthebaggage—wagon——takehimachamber—maid！Confoundme，Ineversawanythinglikeit。Whatdidhesayhewantswiththosebooks？\"\"Wantstoread\'em，likeenough;itain\'tlikelyhewantstoeat\'em，Idon\'treckon。\"\"Wantstoread\'em——wantstoread\'emthistimeofnight，theinfernallunatic！Well，hecan\'thavethem。\"\"Buthesayshe\'smor\'lyboundtohave\'em;hesayshe\'lljustgoa—rairin\'anda—chargin\'throughthishouseandraisemore——well，there\'snotellin\'whathewon\'tdoifhedon\'tget\'em;becausehe\'sdrunkandcrazyanddesperate，andnothing\'llsoothehimdownbutthemcussedbooks。\"
[Ihadnotmadeanythreats，andwasnotintheconditionascribedtomebytheporter。]\"Well，goon;butIwillbearoundwhenhegoestorairingandcharging，andthefirstrairhemakesI\'llmakehimrairoutofthewindow。\"Andthentheoldgentlemanwentoff，growlingasbefore。Thegeniusofthatporterwassomethingwonderful。Heputanarmfulofbooksonthebedandsaid\"Goodnight\"asconfidentlyasifheknewperfectlywellthatthosebookswereexactlymystyleofreadingmatter。
Andwellhemight。Hisselectioncoveredthewholerangeoflegitimateliterature。Itcomprised\"TheGreatConsummation，\"byRev。Dr。Cummings——theology;
\"RevisedStatutesoftheStateofMissouri\"——law;\"TheCompleteHorse—Doctor\"——medicine;
\"TheToilersoftheSea，\"byVictorHugo——romance;\"TheworksofWilliamShakespeare\"——poetry。Ishallneverceasetoadmirethetactandtheintelligenceofthatgiftedporter。ButallthedonkeysinChristendom，andmostoftheEgyptianboys，Ithink，areatthedoor，andthereissomenoisegoingon，nottoputitinstrongerlanguage。——WeareaboutstartingtotheillustriousPyramidsofEgypt，andthedonkeysforthevoyageareunderinspection。Iwillgoandselectonebeforethechoiceanimalsarealltaken。
Chapter58
Thedonkeyswereallgood，allhandsome，allstrongandingoodcondition，allfastandallwillingtoproveit。Theywerethebestwehadfoundanywhere，andthemostrecherche。Idonotknowwhatrechercheis，butthatiswhatthesedonkeyswere，anyhow。Somewereofasoftmouse—color，andtheotherswerewhite，black，andvari—colored。Somewereclose—shaven，allover，exceptthatatuftlikeapaint—brushwasleftontheendofthetail。Othersweresoshaveninfancifullandscapegardenpatterns，astomarktheirbodieswithcurvinglines，whichwereboundedononesidebyhairandontheotherbythecloseplushleftbytheshears。Theyhadallbeennewlybarbered，andwereexceedinglystylish。Severalofthewhiteoneswerebarredlikezebraswithrainbowstripesofblueandredandyellowpaint。Thesewereindescribablygorgeous。DanandJackselectedfromthislotbecausetheybroughtbackItalianreminiscencesofthe\"oldmasters。\"
Thesaddleswerethehigh，stuffy，frog—shapedthingswehadknowninEphesusandSmyrna。Thedonkey—boyswerelivelyyoungEgyptianrascalswhocouldfollowadonkeyandkeephiminacanterhalfadaywithouttiring。Wehadplentyofspectatorswhenwemounted，forthehotelwasfullofEnglishpeopleboundoverlandtoIndiaandofficersgettingreadyfortheAfricancampaignagainsttheAbyssinianKingTheodorus。Wewerenotaverylargeparty，butaswechargedthroughthestreetsofthegreatmetropolis，wemadenoiseforfivehundred，anddisplayedactivityandcreatedexcitementinproportion。Nobodycansteeradonkey，andsomecollidedwithcamels，dervishes，effendis，asses，beggarsandeverythingelsethatofferedtothedonkeysareasonablechanceforacollision。WhenweturnedintothebroadavenuethatleadsoutofthecitytowardOldCairo，therewasplentyofroom。Thewallsofstatelydate—palmsthatfencedthegardensandborderedtheway，threwtheirshadowsdownandmadetheaircoolandbracing。Werosetothespiritofthetimeandtheracebecameawildrout，astampede，aterrificpanic。Iwishtolivetoenjoyitagain。
SomewherealongthisroutewehadafewstartlingexhibitionsofOrientalsimplicity。AgirlapparentlythirteenyearsofagecamealongthegreatthoroughfaredressedlikeEvebeforethefall。Wewouldhavecalledherthirteenathome;butheregirlswholookthirteenareoftennotmorethannine，inreality。Occasionallywesawstark—nakedmenofsuperbbuild，bathing，andmakingnoattemptatconcealment。However，anhour\'sacquaintancewiththischeerfulcustomreconciledthepilgrimstoit，andthenitceasedtooccasionremark。Thuseasilydoeventhemoststartlingnoveltiesgrowtameandspiritlesstothesesight—surfeitedwanderers。
ArrivedatOldCairo，thecamp—followerstookupthedonkeysandtumbledthembodilyaboardasmallboatwithalateensail，andwefollowedandgotunderway。Thedeckwascloselypackedwithdonkeysandmen;thetwosailorshadtoclimboverandunderandthroughthewedgedmasstoworkthesails，andthesteersmanhadtocrowdfourorfivedonkeysoutofthewaywhenhewishedtoswinghistillerandputhishelmhard—down。Butwhatweretheirtroublestous？Wehadnothingtodo;nothingtodobutenjoythetrip;nothingtodobutshovethedonkeysoffourcornsandlookatthecharmingsceneryoftheNile。
OntheislandatourrightwasthemachinetheycalltheNilometer，astone—columnwhosebusinessitistomarktheriseoftheriverandprophecywhetheritwillreachonlythirty—twofeetandproduceafamine，orwhetheritwillproperlyfloodthelandatfortyandproduceplenty，orwhetheritwillrisetoforty—threeandbringdeathanddestructiontoflocksandcrops——buthowitdoesallthistheycouldnotexplaintoussothatwecouldunderstandOnthesameislandisstillshownthespotwherePharaoh\'sdaughterfoundMosesinthebulrushes。Nearthespotwesailedfrom，theHolyFamilydweltwhentheysojournedinEgypttillHerodshouldcompletehisslaughteroftheinnocents。Thesametreetheyrestedunderwhentheyfirstarrived，wasthereashorttimeago，buttheViceroyofEgyptsentittotheEmpressEugenielately。Hewasjustintime，otherwiseourpilgrimswouldhavehadit。
TheNileatthispointismuddy，swiftandturbid，anddoesnotlackagreatdealofbeingaswideastheMississippi。
WescrambledupthesteepbankattheshabbytownofGhizeh，mountedthedonkeysagain，andscamperedaway。ForfourorfivemilestheroutelayalongahighembankmentwhichtheysayistobethebedofarailwaytheSultanmeanstobuildfornootherreasonthanthatwhentheEmpressoftheFrenchcomestovisithimshecangotothePyramidsincomfort。
ThisistrueOrientalhospitality。Iamverygladitisourprivilegetohavedonkeysinsteadofcars。
AtthedistanceofafewmilesthePyramidsrisingabovethepalms，lookedveryclean—cut，verygrandandimposing，andverysoftandfilmy，aswell。Theyswaminarichhazethattookfromthemallsuggestionsofunfeelingstone，andmadethemseemonlytheairynothingsofadream——structureswhichmightblossomintotiersofvaguearches，orornatecolonnades，maybe，andchangeandchangeagain，intoallgracefulformsofarchitecture，whilewelooked，andthenmeltdeliciouslyawayandblendwiththetremulousatmosphere。
AttheendoftheleveeweleftthemulesandwentinasailboatacrossanarmoftheNileoranoverflow，andlandedwherethesandsoftheGreatSaharalefttheirembankment，asstraightasawall，alongthevergeofthealluvialplainoftheriver。AlaboriouswalkintheflamingsunbroughtustothefootofthegreatPyramidofCheops。Itwasafairyvisionnolonger。Itwasacorrugated，unsightlymountainofstone。Eachofitsmonstroussideswasawidestairwaywhichroseupward，stepabovestep，narrowingasitwent，tillittaperedtoapointfaraloftintheair。Insectmenandwomen——pilgrimsfromtheQuakerCity——werecreepingaboutitsdizzyperches，andonelittleblackswarmwerewavingpostagestampsfromtheairysummit——handkerchiefswillbeunderstood。
OfcoursewewerebesiegedbyarabbleofmuscularEgyptiansandArabswhowantedthecontractofdraggingustothetop——alltouristsare。Ofcourseyoucouldnothearyourownvoiceforthedinthatwasaroundyou。
OfcoursetheSheikssaidtheyweretheonlyresponsibleparties;
thatallcontractsmustbemadewiththem，allmoneyspaidovertothem，andnoneexactedfromusbyanybutthemselvesalone。Ofcoursetheycontractedthatthevarletswhodraggedusupshouldnotmentionbucksheeshonce。
Forsuchistheusualroutine。Ofcoursewecontractedwiththem，paidthem，weredeliveredintothehandsofthedraggers，draggedupthePyramids，andharriedandbe—deviledforbucksheeshfromthefoundationcleartothesummit。Wepaidit，too，forwewerepurposelyspreadveryfarapartoverthevastsideofthePyramid。Therewasnohelpnearifwecalled，andtheHerculeseswhodraggedushadawayofaskingsweetlyandflatteringlyforbucksheesh，whichwasseductive，andoflookingfierceandthreateningtothrowusdowntheprecipice，whichwaspersuasiveandconvincing。
Eachstepbeingfullashighasadinner—table;therebeingvery，verymanyofthesteps;anArabhavingholdofeachofourarmsandspringingupwardfromsteptostepandsnatchinguswiththem，forcingustoliftourfeetashighasourbreastseverytime，anddoitrapidlyandkeepituptillwewerereadytofaint，whoshallsayitisnotlively，exhilarating，lacerating，muscle—straining，bone—wrenchingandperfectlyexcruciatingandexhaustingpastime，climbingthePyramids？Ibeseechedthevarletsnottotwistallmyjointsasunder;Iiterated，reiterated，evensworetothemthatIdidnotwishtobeatanybodytothetop;didallIcouldtoconvincethemthatifIgottherethelastofallIwouldfeelblessedabovemenandgratefultothemforever;Ibeggedthem，prayedthem，pleadedwiththemtoletmestopandrestamoment——onlyonelittlemoment:andtheyonlyansweredwithsomemorefrightfulsprings，andanunenlistedvolunteerbehindopenedabombardmentofdeterminedboostswithhisheadwhichthreatenedtobattermywholepoliticaleconomytowreckandruin。
Twice，foroneminute，theyletmerestwhiletheyextortedbucksheesh，andthencontinuedtheirmaniacflightupthePyramid。Theywishedtobeattheotherparties。ItwasnothingtothemthatI，astranger，mustbesacrificeduponthealtaroftheirunholyambition。Butinthemidstofsorrow，joyblooms。EveninthisdarkhourIhadasweetconsolation。ForIknewthatexcepttheseMohammedansrepentedtheywouldgostraighttoperditionsomeday。Andtheyneverrepent——theyneverforsaketheirpaganism。Thisthoughtcalmedme，cheeredme，andIsankdown，limpandexhausted，uponthesummit，buthappy，sohappyandserenewithin。
Ontheonehand，amightyseaofyellowsandstretchedawaytowardtheendsoftheearth，solemn，silent，shornofvegetation，itssolitudeuncheeredbyanyformsofcreaturelife;ontheother，theEdenofEgyptwasspreadbelowus——abroadgreenfloor，clovenbythesinuousriver，dottedwithvillages，itsvastdistancesmeasuredandmarkedbythediminishingstatureofrecedingclustersofpalms。Itlayasleepinanenchantedatmosphere。
Therewasnosound，nomotion。Abovethedate—plumesinthemiddledistance，swelledadomedandpinnacledmass，glimmeringthroughatinted，exquisitemist;awaytowardthehorizonadozenshapelypyramidswatchedoverruinedMemphis:andatourfeettheblandimpassibleSphynxlookedoutuponthepicturefromherthroneinthesandsasplacidlyandpensivelyasshehadlookeduponitslikefullfiftylaggingcenturiesago。
WesufferedtorturenopencandescribefromthehungryappealsforbucksheeshthatgleamedfromArabeyesandpouredincessantlyfromArablips。WhytrytocallupthetraditionsofvanishedEgyptiangrandeur;
whytrytofancyEgyptfollowingdeadRamesestohistombinthePyramid，orthelongmultitudeofIsraeldepartingoverthedesertyonder？Whytrytothinkatall？Thethingwasimpossible。Onemustbringhismeditationscutanddried，orelsecutanddrythemafterward。
ThetraditionalArabproposed，inthetraditionalway，torundownCheops，crosstheeighthofamileofsandinterveningbetweenitandthetallpyramidofCephron，ascendtoCephron\'ssummitandreturntousonthetopofCheops——allinnineminutesbythewatch，andthewholeservicetoberenderedforasingledollar。Inthefirstflushofirritation，I
saidlettheArabandhisexploitsgotothemischief。Butstay。TheupperthirdofCephronwascoatedwithdressedmarble，smoothasglass。Ablessedthoughtenteredmybrain。Hemustinfalliblybreakhisneck。Closethecontractwithdispatch，Isaid，andlethimgo。Hestarted。Wewatched。
Hewentboundingdownthevastbroadside，springafterspring，likeanibex。Hegrewsmallandsmallertillhebecameabobbingpigmy，awaydowntowardthebottom——thendisappeared。Weturnedandpeeredovertheotherside——fortyseconds——eightyseconds——ahundred——happiness，heisdeadalready！——twominutes——andaquarter——\"Therehegoes！\"Tootrue——itwastootrue。Hewasverysmall，now。Gradually，butsurely，heovercamethelevelground。
Hebegantospringandclimbagain。Up，up，up——atlasthereachedthesmoothcoating——nowforit。Butheclungtoitwithtoesandfingers，likeafly。Hecrawledthiswayandthat——awaytotheright，slantingupward——awaytotheleft，stillslantingupward——andstoodatlast，ablackpegonthesummit，andwavedhispigmyscarf！Thenhecreptdownwardtotherawstepsagain，thenpickeduphisagileheelsandflew。Welosthimpresently。
Butpresentlyagainwesawhimunderus，mountingwithundiminishedenergy。
Shortlyheboundedintoourmidstwithagallantwar—whoop。Time，eightminutes，forty—oneseconds。Hehadwon。Hisboneswereintact。Itwasafailure。Ireflected。Isaidtomyself，heistired，andmustgrowdizzy。
Iwillriskanotherdollaronhim。
Hestartedagain。Madethetripagain。Slippedonthesmoothcoating——I
almosthadhim。Butaninfamouscrevicesavedhim。Hewaswithusoncemore——perfectlysound。Time，eightminutes，forty—sixseconds。
IsaidtoDan，\"Lendmeadollar——Icanbeatthisgame，yet。\"
Worseandworse。Hewonagain。Time，eightminutes，forty—eightseconds。
Iwasoutofallpatience，now。Iwasdesperate。——Moneywasnolongerofanyconsequence。Isaid，\"Sirrah，Iwillgiveyouahundreddollarstojumpoffthispyramidheadfirst。Ifyoudonotliketheterms，nameyourbet。Iscorntostandonexpensesnow。IwillstayrighthereandriskmoneyonyouaslongasDanhasgotacent。\"
Iwasinafairwaytowin，now，foritwasadazzlingopportunityforanArab。Heponderedamoment，andwouldhavedoneit，Ithink，buthismotherarrived，then，andinterfered。Hertearsmovedme——Inevercanlookuponthetearsofwomanwithindifference——andIsaidIwouldgiveherahundredtojumpoff，too。
Butitwasafailure。TheArabsaretoohigh—pricedinEgypt。Theyputonairsunbecomingtosuchsavages。
Wedescended，hotandoutofhumor。Thedragomanlitcandles，andweallenteredaholenearthebaseofthepyramid，attendedbyacrazyrabbleofArabswhothrusttheirservicesuponusuninvited。Theydraggedusupalonginclinedchute，anddrippedcandle—greasealloverus。ThischutewasnotmorethantwiceaswideandhighasaSaratogatrunk，andwaswalled，roofedandflooredwithsolidblocksofEgyptiangraniteaswideasawardrobe，twiceasthickandthreetimesaslong。Wekeptonclimbing，throughtheoppressivegloom，tillIthoughtweoughttobenearingthetopofthepyramidagain，andthencametothe\"Queen\'sChamber，\"andshortlytotheChamberoftheKing。Theselargeapartmentsweretombs。Thewallswerebuiltofmonstrousmassesofsmoothedgranite，neatlyjoinedtogether。
Someofthemwerenearlyaslargesquareasanordinaryparlor。Agreatstonesarcophaguslikeabath—tubstoodinthecentreoftheKing\'sChamber。
ArounditweregatheredapicturesquegroupofArabsavagesandsoiledandtatteredpilgrims，whoheldtheircandlesaloftinthegloomwhiletheychattered，andthewinkingblursoflightshedadimglorydownupononeoftheirrepressiblememento—seekerswhowaspeckingatthevenerablesarcophaguswithhissacrilegioushammer。
Westruggledouttotheopenairandthebrightsunshine，andforthespaceofthirtyminutesreceivedraggedArabsbycouples，dozensandplatoons，andpaidthembucksheeshforservicestheysworeandprovedbyeachotherthattheyhadrendered，butwhichwehadnotbeenawareofbefore——andaseachpartywaspaid，theydroppedintotherearoftheprocessionandinduetimearrivedagainwithanewly—inventeddelinquentlistforliquidation。
Welunchedintheshadeofthepyramid，andinthemidstofthisencroachingandunwelcomecompany，andthenDanandJackandIstartedawayforawalk。
Ahowlingswarmofbeggarsfollowedus——surroundedus——almostheadedusoff。Asheik，inflowingwhitebournousandgaudyhead—gear，waswiththem。
Hewantedmorebucksheesh。Butwehadadoptedanewcode——itwasmillionsfordefense，butnotacentforbucksheesh。Iaskedhimifhecouldpersuadetheotherstodepartifwepaidhim。Hesaidyes——fortenfrancs。Weacceptedthecontract，andsaid——
\"Nowpersuadeyourvassalstofallback。\"
HeswunghislongstaffroundhisheadandthreeArabsbitthedust。
Hecaperedamongthemoblikeaverymaniac。Hisblowsfelllikehail，andwhereveronefellasubjectwentdown。Wehadtohurrytotherescueandtellhimitwasonlynecessarytodamagethemalittle，heneednotkillthem。——Intwominuteswewerealonewiththesheik，andremainedso。
Thepersuasivepowersofthisilliteratesavagewereremarkable。
EachsideofthePyramidofCheopsisaboutaslongastheCapitolatWashington，ortheSultan\'snewpalaceontheBosporus，andislongerthanthegreatestdepthofSt。Peter\'satRome——whichistosaythateachsideofCheopsextendssevenhundredandsomeoddfeet。Itisaboutseventy—fivefeethigherthanthecrossonSt。Peter\'s。ThefirsttimeIeverwentdowntheMississippi，IthoughtthehighestbluffontheriverbetweenSt。LouisandNewOrleans——itwasnearSelma，Missouri——wasprobablythehighestmountainintheworld。Itisfourhundredandthirteenfeethigh。Itstillloomsinmymemorywithundiminishedgrandeur。IcanstillseethetreesandbushesgrowingsmallerandsmallerasIfollowedthemupitshugeslantwithmyeye，tilltheybecameafeatheryfringeonthedistantsummit。
ThissymmetricalPyramidofCheops——thissolidmountainofstonerearedbythepatienthandsofmen——thismightytombofaforgottenmonarch——dwarfsmycherishedmountain。Foritisfourhundredandeightyfeethigh。InstillearlieryearsthanthoseIhavebeenrecalling，Holliday\'sHill，inourtown，wastomethenoblestworkofGod。Itappearedtopiercetheskies。Itwasnearlythreehundredfeethigh。InthosedaysIponderedthesubjectmuch，butInevercouldunderstandwhyitdidnotswatheitssummitwithnever—failingclouds，andcrownitsmajesticbrowwitheverlastingsnows。Ihadheardthatsuchwasthecustomofgreatmountainsinotherpartsoftheworld。IrememberedhowIworkedwithanotherboy，atoddafternoonsstolenfromstudyandpaidforwithstripes，toundermineandstartfromitsbedanimmenseboulderthatrestedupontheedgeofthathilltop;Irememberedhow，oneSaturdayafternoon，wegavethreehoursofhonestefforttothetask，andsawatlastthatourrewardwasathand;
Irememberedhowwesatdown，then，andwipedtheperspirationaway，andwaitedtoletapicnicpartygetoutofthewayintheroadbelow——andthenwestartedtheboulder。Itwassplendid。Itwentcrashingdownthehillside，tearingupsaplings，mowingbushesdownlikegrass，rippingandcrushingandsmashingeverythinginitspath——eternallysplinteredandscatteredawoodpileatthefootofthehill，andthensprangfromthehighbankclearoveradrayintheroad——thenegroglanceduponceanddodged——andthenextseconditmadeinfinitesimalmince—meatofaframecooper—shop，andthecoopersswarmedoutlikebees。Thenwesaiditwasperfectlymagnificent，andleft。Becausethecooperswerestartingupthehilltoinquire。
Still，thatmountain，prodigiousasitwas，wasnothingtothePyramidofCheops。Icouldconjureupnocomparisonthatwouldconveytomymindasatisfactorycomprehensionofthemagnitudeofapileofmonstrousstonesthatcoveredthirteenacresofgroundandstretchedupwardfourhundredandeightytiresomefeet，andsoIgaveitupandwalkeddowntotheSphynx。
Afteryearsofwaiting，itwasbeforemeatlast。Thegreatfacewassosad，soearnest，solonging，sopatient。Therewasadignitynotofearthinitsmien，andinitscountenanceabenignitysuchasneveranythinghumanwore。Itwasstone，butitseemedsentient。Ifeverimageofstonethought，itwasthinking。Itwaslookingtowardthevergeofthelandscape，yetlookingatnothing——nothingbutdistanceandvacancy。
Itwaslookingoverandbeyondeverythingofthepresent，andfarintothepast。ItwasgazingoutovertheoceanofTime——overlinesofcentury—waveswhich，furtherandfurtherreceding，closednearerandnearertogether，andblendedatlastintooneunbrokentide，awaytowardthehorizonofremoteantiquity。Itwasthinkingofthewarsofdepartedages;oftheempiresithadseencreatedanddestroyed;ofthenationswhosebirthithadwitnessed，whoseprogressithadwatched，whoseannihilationithadnoted;ofthejoyandsorrow，thelifeanddeath，thegrandeuranddecay，offivethousandslowrevolvingyears。Itwasthetypeofanattributeofman——ofafacultyofhisheartandbrain。ItwasMEMORY——RETROSPECTION——wroughtintovisible，tangibleform。Allwhoknowwhatpathosthereisinmemoriesofdaysthatareaccomplishedandfacesthathavevanished——albeitonlyatriflingscoreofyearsgoneby——willhavesomeappreciationofthepathosthatdwellsinthesegraveeyesthatlooksosteadfastlybackuponthethingstheyknewbeforeHistorywasborn——beforeTraditionhadbeing——thingsthatwere，andformsthatmoved，inavagueerawhichevenPoetryandRomancescarceknowof——andpassedonebyoneawayandleftthestonydreamersolitaryinthemidstofastrangenewage，anduncomprehendedscenes。
TheSphynxisgrandinitsloneliness;itisimposinginitsmagnitude;
itisimpressiveinthemysterythathangsoveritsstory。Andthereisthatintheovershadowingmajestyofthiseternalfigureofstone，withitsaccusingmemoryofthedeedsofallages，whichrevealstoonesomethingofwhatheshallfeelwhenheshallstandatlastintheawfulpresenceofGod。
Therearesomethingswhich，forthecreditofAmerica，shouldbeleftunsaid，perhaps;buttheseverythingshappensometimestobetheverythingswhich，fortherealbenefitofAmericans，oughttohaveprominentnotice。Whilewestoodlooking，awart，oranexcrescenceofsomekind，appearedonthejawoftheSphynx。Weheardthefamiliarclinkofahammer，andunderstoodthecaseatonce。Oneofourwellmeaningreptiles——Imeanrelic—hunters——hadcrawledupthereandwastryingtobreaka\"specimen\"fromthefaceofthisthemostmajesticcreationthehandofmanhaswrought。Butthegreatimagecontemplatedthedeadagesascalmlyasever，unconsciousofthesmallinsectthatwasfrettingatitsjaw。Egyptiangranitethathasdefiedthestormsandearthquakesofalltimehasnothingtofearfromthetack—hammersofignorantexcursionists——highwaymenlikethisspecimen。Hefailedinhisenterprise。Wesentasheiktoarresthimifhehadtheauthority，ortowarnhim，ifhehadnot，thatbythelawsofEgyptthecrimehewasattemptingtocommitwaspunishablewithimprisonmentorthebastinado。Thenhedesistedandwentaway。
TheSphynx:ahundredandtwenty—fivefeetlong，sixtyfeethigh，andahundredandtwofeetaroundthehead，ifIrememberrightly——carvedoutofonesolidblockofstoneharderthananyiron。TheblockmusthavebeenaslargeastheFifthAvenueHotelbeforetheusualwaste（bythenecessitiesofsculpture）ofafourthorahalfoftheoriginalmasswasbegun。Ionlysetdownthesefiguresandtheseremarkstosuggesttheprodigiouslaborthecarvingofitsoelegantly，sosymmetrically，sofaultlessly，musthavecost。Thisspeciesofstoneissohardthatfigurescutinitremainsharpandunmarredafterexposuretotheweatherfortwoorthreethousandyears。NowdidittakeahundredyearsofpatienttoiltocarvetheSphynx？
Itseemsprobable。
Somethinginterfered，andwedidnotvisittheRedSeaandwalkuponthesandsofArabia。IshallnotdescribethegreatmosqueofMehemetAli，whoseentireinnerwallsarebuiltofpolishedandglisteningalabaster;
Ishallnottellhowthelittlebirdshavebuilttheirnestsintheglobesofthegreatchandeliersthathanginthemosque，andhowtheyfillthewholeplacewiththeirmusicandarenotafraidofanybodybecausetheiraudacityispardoned，theirrightsarerespected，andnobodyisallowedtointerferewiththem，eventhoughthemosquebethusdoomedtogounlighted;
IcertainlyshallnottellthehackneyedstoryofthemassacreoftheMamelukes，becauseIamgladthelawlessrascalsweremassacred，andIdonotwishtogetupanysympathyintheirbehalf;IshallnottellhowthatonesolitaryMamelukejumpedhishorseahundredfeetdownfromthebattlementsofthecitadelandescaped，becauseIdonotthinkmuchofthat——Icouldhavedoneitmyself;IshallnottellofJoseph\'swellwhichheduginthesolidrockofthecitadelhillandwhichisstillasgoodasnew，norhowthesamemulesheboughttodrawupthewater（withanendlesschain）arestillatityetandaregettingtiredofit，too;IshallnottellaboutJoseph\'sgranarieswhichhebuilttostorethegrainin，whattimetheEgyptianbrokerswere\"sellingshort，\"unwittingthattherewouldbenocorninallthelandwhenitshouldbetimeforthemtodeliver;Ishallnottellanythingaboutthestrange，strangecityofCairo，becauseitisonlyarepetition，agooddealintensifiedandexaggerated，oftheOrientalcitiesIhavealreadyspokenof;IshallnottelloftheGreatCaravanwhichleavesforMeccaeveryyear，forIdidnotseeit;norofthefashionthepeoplehaveofprostratingthemselvesandsoformingalonghumanpavementtoberiddenoverbythechiefoftheexpeditiononitsreturn，totheendthattheirsalvationmaybethussecured，forIdidnotseethateither;