WhenIwasaboyIsomehowgottheimpressionthattheriverJordanwasfourthousandmileslongandthirty—fivemileswide。Itisonlyninetymileslong，andsocrookedthatamandoesnotknowwhichsideofitheisonhalfthetime。Ingoingninetymilesitdoesnotgetovermorethanfiftymilesofground。ItisnotanywiderthanBroadwayinNewYork。ThereistheSeaofGalileeandthisDeadSea——neitherofthemtwentymileslongorthirteenwide。AndyetwhenIwasinSundaySchoolIthoughttheyweresixtythousandmilesindiameter。
Travelandexperiencemarthegrandestpicturesandrobusofthemostcherishedtraditionsofourboyhood。Well，letthemgo。IhavealreadyseentheEmpireofKingSolomondiminishtothesizeoftheStateofPennsylvania;
IsupposeIcanbearthereductionoftheseasandtheriver。
Welookedeverywhere，aswepassedalong，butneversawgrainorcrystalofLot\'swife。Itwasagreatdisappointment。Formanyandmanyayearwehadknownhersadstory，andtakenthatinterestinherwhichmisfortunealwaysinspires。Butshewasgone。HerpicturesqueformnolongerloomsabovethedesertoftheDeadSeatoremindthetouristofthedoomthatfelluponthelostcities。
Icannotdescribethehideousafternoon\'sridefromtheDeadSeatoMarsSaba。Itoppressesmeyet，tothinkofit。Thesunsopeltedusthatthetearsrandownourcheeksonceortwice。Theghastly，treeless，grassless，breathlesscanonssmotheredusasifwehadbeeninanoven。Thesunhadpositiveweighttoit，Ithink。Notamancouldsiterectunderit。Alldroopedlowinthesaddles。Johnpreachedinthis\"Wilderness！\"
Itmusthavebeenexhaustingwork。WhataveryheaventhemessytowersandrampartsofvastHarsSabalookedtouswhenwecaughtafirstglimpseofthem！
Westaidatthisgreatconventallnight，guestsofthehospitablepriests。
MarsSaba，percheduponacrag，ahumanneststockhighupagainstaperpendicularmountainwall，isaworldofgrandmasonrythatrises，terraceuponterraceawayaboveyourhead，liketheterracedandretreatingcolonnadesoneseesinfancifulpicturesofBelshazzar\'sFeastandthepalacesoftheancientPharaohs。Nootherhumandwellingisnear。Itwasfoundedmanyagesagobyaholyreclusewholivedatfirstinacaveintherock——acavewhichisinclosedintheconventwalls，now，andwasreverentlyshowntousbythepriests。Thisrecluse，byhisrigoroustorturingofhisflesh，hisdietofbreadandwater，hisutterwithdrawalfromallsocietyandfromthevanitiesoftheworld，andhisconstantprayerandsaintlycontemplationofaskull，inspiredanemulationthatbroughtabouthimmanydisciples。
Theprecipiceontheoppositesideofthecanyoniswellperforatedwiththesmallholestheydugintherocktolivein。ThepresentoccupantsofMarsSaba，aboutseventyinnumber，areallhermits。Theywearacoarserobe，anugly，brimlessstove—pipeofahat，andgowithoutshoes。Theyeatnothingwhateverbutbreadandsalt;theydrinknothingbutwater。
Aslongastheylivetheycannevergooutsidethewalls，orlookuponawoman——fornowomanispermittedtoenterMarsSaba，uponanypretextwhatsoever。
Someofthosemenhavebeenshutupthereforthirtyyears。Inallthatdrearytimetheyhavenotheardthelaughterofachildortheblessedvoiceofawoman;theyhaveseennohumantears，nohumansmiles;theyhaveknownnohumanjoys，nowholesomehumansorrows。Intheirheartsarenomemoriesofthepast，intheirbrainsnodreamsofthefuture。Allthatislovable，beautiful，worthy，theyhaveputfarawayfromthem;againstallthingsthatarepleasanttolookupon，andallsoundsthataremusictotheear，theyhavebarredtheirmassivedoorsandrearedtheirrelentlesswallsofstoneforever。Theyhavebanishedthetendergraceoflifeandleftonlythesappedandskinnymockery。Theirlipsarelipsthatneverkissandneversing;theirheartsareheartsthatneverhateandneverlove;theirbreastsarebreaststhatneverswellwiththesentiment，\"I
haveacountryandaflag。\"Theyaredeadmenwhowalk。
Isetdownthesefirstthoughtsbecausetheyarenatural——notbecausetheyarejustorbecauseitisrighttosetthemdown。Itiseasyforbook—makerstosay\"IthoughtsoandsoasIlookeduponsuchandsuchascene\"——
whenthetruthis，theythoughtallthosefinethingsafterwards。One\'sfirstthoughtisnotlikelytobestrictlyaccurate，yetitisnocrimetothinkitandnonetowriteitdown，subjecttomodificationbylaterexperience。Thesehermitsaredeadmen，inseveralrespects，butnotinall;anditisnotproper，that，thinkingillofthematfirst，Ishouldgoondoingso，or，speakingillofthemIshouldreiteratethewordsandsticktothem。No，theytreatedustookindlyforthat。Thereissomethinghumanaboutthemsomewhere。TheyknewwewereforeignersandProtestants，andnotlikelytofeeladmirationormuchfriendlinesstowardthem。Buttheirlargecharitywasaboveconsideringsuchthings。Theysimplysawinusmenwhowerehungry，andthirsty，andtired，andthatwassufficient。
Theyopenedtheirdoorsandgaveuswelcome。Theyaskednoquestions，andtheymadenoself—righteousdisplayoftheirhospipitality。Theyfishedfornocompliments。Theymovedquietlyabout，settingthetableforus，makingthebeds，andbringingwatertowashin，andpaidnoheedwhenwesaiditwaswrongforthemtodothatwhenwehadmenwhosebusinessitwastoperformsuchoffices。Wefaredmostcomfortably，andsatlateatdinner。Wewalkedalloverthebuildingwiththehermitsafterward，andthensatontheloftybattlementsandsmokedwhileweenjoyedthecoolair，thewildsceneryandthesunset。Oneortwochosecosybed—roomstosleepin，butthenomadicinstinctpromptedtheresttosleeponthebroaddivanthatextendedaroundthegreathall，becauseitseemedlikesleepingoutofdoors，andsowasmorecheeryandinviting。Itwasaroyalrestwehad。
Whenwegotuptobreakfastinthemorning，wewerenewmen。Forallthishospitalitynostrictchargewasmade。Wecouldgivesomethingifwechose;weneedgivenothing，ifwewerepoororifwewerestingy。ThepauperandthemiserareasfreeasanyintheCatholicConventsofPalestine。
IhavebeeneducatedtoenmitytowardeverythingthatisCatholic，andsometimes，inconsequenceofthis，IfinditmucheasiertodiscoverCatholicfaultsthanCatholicmerits。ButthereisonethingIfeelnodispositiontooverlook，andnodispositiontoforget:andthatis，thehonestgratitudeIandallpilgrimsowe，totheConventFathersinPalestine。Theirdoorsarealwaysopen，andthereisalwaysawelcomeforanyworthymanwhocomes，whetherhecomesinragsorcladinpurple。TheCatholicConventsareapricelessblessingtothepoor。Apilgrimwithoutmoney，whetherhebeaProtestantoraCatholic，cantravelthelengthandbreadthofPalestine，andinthemidstofherdesertwastesfindwholesomefoodandacleanbedeverynight，inthesebuildings。Pilgrimsinbettercircumstancesareoftenstrickendownbythesunandthefeversofthecountry，andthentheirsavingrefugeistheConvent。Withoutthesehospitableretreats，travelinPalestinewouldbeapleasurewhichnonebutthestrongestmencoulddaretoundertake。Ourparty，pilgrimsandall，willalwaysbereadyandalwayswilling，totouchglassesanddrinkhealth，prosperityandlonglifetotheConventFathersofPalestine。
So，restedandrefreshed，wefellintolineandfiledawayoverthebarrenmountainsofJudea，andalongrockyridgesandthroughsterilegorges，whereeternalsilenceandsolitudereigned。Eventhescatteringgroupsofarmedshepherdswemettheafternoonbefore，tendingtheirflocksoflong—hairedgoats，werewantinghere。Wesawbuttwolivingcreatures。
Theyweregazelles，of\"soft—eyed\"notoriety。Theylookedlikeveryyoungkids，buttheyannihilateddistancelikeanexpresstrain。Ihavenotseenanimalsthatmovedfaster，unlessImightsayitoftheantelopesofourowngreatplains。
AtnineorteninthemorningwereachedthePlainoftheShepherds，andstoodinawalledgardenofoliveswheretheshepherdswerewatchingtheirflocksbynight，eighteencenturiesago，whenthemultitudeofangelsbroughtthemthetidingsthattheSaviourwasborn。AquarterofamileawaywasBethlehemofJudea，andthepilgrimstooksomeofthestonewallandhurriedon。
ThePlainoftheShepherdsisadesert，pavedwithloosestones，voidofvegetation，glaringinthefiercesun。Onlythemusicoftheangelsitknewoncecouldcharmitsshrubsandflowerstolifeagainandrestoreitsvanishedbeauty。Nolesspotentenchantmentcouldavailtoworkthismiracle。
InthehugeChurchoftheNativity，inBethlehem，builtfifteenhundredyearsagobytheinveterateSt。Helena，theytookusbelowground，andintoagrottocutinthelivingrock。Thiswasthe\"manger\"whereChristwasborn。AsilverstarsetinthefloorbearsaLatininscriptiontothateffect。Itispolishedwiththekissesofmanygenerationsofworshipingpilgrims。ThegrottowastrickedoutintheusualtastelessstyleobservableinalltheholyplacesofPalestine。AsintheChurchoftheHolySepulchre，envyanduncharitablenesswereapparenthere。ThepriestsandthemembersoftheGreekandLatinchurchescannotcomebythesamecorridortokneelinthesacredbirthplaceoftheRedeemer，butarecompelledtoapproachandretirebydifferentavenues，lesttheyquarrelandfightonthisholiestgroundonearth。
Ihaveno\"meditations，\"suggestedbythisspotwheretheveryfirst\"MerryChristmas！\"wasutteredinalltheworld，andfromwhencethefriendofmychildhood，SantaClaus，departedonhisfirstjourney，togladdenandcontinuetogladdenroaringfiresidesonwintrymorningsinmanyadistantlandforeverandforever。Itouch，withreverentfinger，theactualspotwheretheinfantJesuslay，butIthink——nothing。
YoucannotthinkinthisplaceanymorethanyoucaninanyotherinPalestinethatwouldbelikelytoinspirereflection。Beggars，cripplesandmonkscompassyouabout，andmakeyouthinkonlyofbucksheeshwhenyouwouldratherthinkofsomethingmoreinkeepingwiththecharacterofthespot。
Iwasgladtogetaway，andgladwhenwehadwalkedthroughthegrottoeswhereEusebiuswrote，andJeromefasted，andJosephpreparedfortheflightintoEgypt，andthedozenotherdistinguishedgrottoes，andknewweweredone。TheChurchoftheNativityisalmostaswellpackedwithexceedingholyplacesastheChurchoftheHolySepulchreitself。TheyevenhaveinitagrottowhereintwentythousandchildrenwereslaughteredbyHerodwhenhewasseekingthelifeoftheinfantSaviour。
WewenttotheMilkGrotto，ofcourse——acavernwhereMaryhidherselfforawhilebeforetheflightintoEgypt。Itswallswereblackbeforesheentered，butinsucklingtheChild，adropofhermilkfelluponthefloorandinstantlychangedthedarknessofthewallstoitsownsnowyhue。Wetookmanylittlefragmentsofstonefromhere，becauseitiswellknowninalltheEastthatabarrenwomanhathneedonlytotouchherlipstooneoftheseandherfailingwilldepartfromher。Wetookmanyspecimens，totheendthatwemightconferhappinessuponcertainhouseholdsthatwewotof。
WegotawayfromBethlehemanditstroopsofbeggarsandrelic—peddlersintheafternoon，andafterspendingsomelittletimeatRachel\'stomb，hurriedtoJerusalemasfastaspossible。Ineverwassogladtogethomeagainbefore。IneverhaveenjoyedrestasIhaveenjoyeditduringtheselastfewhours。ThejourneytotheDeadSea，theJordanandBethlehemwasshort，butitwasanexhaustingone。Suchroastingheat，suchoppressivesolitude，andsuchdismaldesolationcannotsurelyexistelsewhereonearth。Andsuchfatigue！
ThecommonestsagacitywarnsmethatIoughttotellthecustomarypleasantlie，andsayItoremyselfreluctantlyawayfromeverynotedplaceinPalestine。
Everybodytellsthat，butwithaslittleostentationasImay，Idoubtthewordofeveryhewhotellsit。IcouldtakeadreadfuloaththatI
haveneverheardanyoneofourfortypilgrimssayanythingofthesort，andtheyareasworthyandassincerelydevoutasanythatcomehere。Theywillsayitwhentheygethome，fastenough，butwhyshouldtheynot？TheydonotwishtoarraythemselvesagainstalltheLamartinesandGrimesesintheworld。Itdoesnotstandtoreasonthatmenarereluctanttoleaveplaceswheretheverylifeisalmostbadgeredoutofthembyimportunateswarmsofbeggarsandpeddlerswhohanginstringstoone\'ssleevesandcoat—tailsandshriekandshoutinhisearsandhorrifyhisvisionwiththeghastlysoresandmalformationstheyexhibit。Oneisgladtogetaway。IhaveheardshamelesspeoplesaytheyweregladtogetawayfromLadies\'Festivalswheretheywereimportunedtobuybybeviesoflovelyyoungladies。Transformthosehourisintoduskyhagsandraggedsavages，andreplacetheirroundedformswithshrunkenandknotteddistortions，theirsofthandswithscarredandhideousdeformities，andthepersuasivemusicoftheirvoiceswiththediscordantdinofahatedlanguage，andthenseehowmuchlingeringreluctancetoleavecouldbemustered。
No，itistheneatthingtosayyouwerereluctant，andthenappendtheprofoundthoughtsthat\"struggledforutterance，\"inyourbrain;butitisthetruethingtosayyouwerenotreluctant，andfounditimpossibletothinkatall——thoughingoodsoothitisnotrespectabletosayit，andnotpoetical，either。
Wedonotthink，intheholyplaces;wethinkinbed，afterwards，whentheglare，andthenoise，andtheconfusionaregone，andinfancywerevisitalone，thesolemnmonumentsofthepast，andsummonthephantompageantsofanagethathaspassedaway。
Chapter56WevisitedalltheholyplacesaboutJerusalemwhichwehadleftunvisitedwhenwejourneyedtotheJordanandthen，aboutthreeo\'clockoneafternoon，wefellintoprocessionandmarchedoutatthestatelyDamascusgate，andthewallsofJerusalemshutusoutforever。Wepausedonthesummitofadistanthillandtookafinallookandmadeafinalfarewelltothevenerablecitywhichhadbeensuchagoodhometous。
Foraboutfourhourswetraveleddownhillconstantly。Wefollowedanarrowbridle—pathwhichtraversedthebedsofthemountaingorges，andwhenwecouldwegotoutofthewayofthelongtrainsofladencamelsandasses，andwhenwecouldnotwesufferedthemiseryofbeingmashedupagainstperpendicularwallsofrockandhavingourlegsbruisedbythepassingfreight。Jackwascaughttwoorthreetimes，andDanandMoultasoften。Onehorsehadaheavyfallontheslipperyrocks，andtheothershadnarrowescapes。However，thiswasasgoodaroadaswehadfoundinPalestine，andpossiblyeventhebest，andsotherewasnotmuchgrumbling。
Sometimes，intheglens，wecameuponluxuriantorchardsoffigs，apricots，pomegranates，andsuchthings，butoftenerthescenerywasrugged，mountainous，verdurelessandforbidding。Hereandthere，towerswereperchedhighuponacclivitieswhichseemedalmostinaccessible。ThisfashionisasoldasPalestineitselfandwasadoptedinancienttimesforsecurityagainstenemies。
WecrossedthebrookwhichfurnishedDavidthestonethatkilledGoliath，andnodoubtwelookedupontheverygroundwhereonthatnotedbattlewasfought。WepassedbyapicturesqueoldgothicruinwhosestonepavementshadrungtothearmedheelsofmanyavalorousCrusader，andwerodethroughapieceofcountrywhichweweretoldonceknewSamsonasacitizen。
WestaidallnightwiththegoodmonksattheconventofRamleh，andinthemorninggotupandgallopedthehorsesagoodpartofthedistancefromtheretoJaffa，orJoppa，fortheplainwasaslevelasafloorandfreefromstones，andbesidesthiswasourlastmarchinHolyLand。Thesetwoorthreehoursfinished，weandthetiredhorsescouldhaverestandsleepaslongaswewantedit。ThiswastheplainofwhichJoshuaspokewhenhesaid，\"Sun，standthoustillonGibeon，andthoumooninthevalleyofAjalon。\"AswedrewneartoJaffa，theboysspurredupthehorsesandindulgedintheexcitementofanactualrace——anexperiencewehadhardlyhadsinceweracedondonkeysintheAzoresislands。
Wecamefinallytothenoblegroveoforange—treesinwhichtheOrientalcityofJaffaliesburied;wepassedthroughthewalls，androdeagaindownnarrowstreetsandamongswarmsofanimatedrags，andsawothersightsandhadotherexperienceswehadlongbeenfamiliarwith。Wedismounted，forthelasttime，andoutintheoffing，ridingatanchor，wesawtheship！Iputanexclamationpointtherebecausewefeltonewhenwesawthevessel。Thelongpilgrimagewasended，andsomehowweseemedtofeelgladofit。
[FordescriptionofJaffa，seeUniversalGazetteer。]SimontheTannerformerlylivedhere。Wewenttohishouse。AllthepilgrimsvisitSimontheTanner\'shouse。PetersawthevisionofthebeastsletdowninasheetwhenhelayupontheroofofSimontheTanner\'shouse。ItwasfromJaffathatJonahsailedwhenhewastoldtogoandprophesyagainstNineveh，andnodoubtitwasnotfarfromthetownthatthewhalethrewhimupwhenhediscoveredthathehadnoticket。Jonahwasdisobedient，andofafault—finding，complainingdisposition，anddeservestobelightlyspokenof，almost。
ThetimbersusedintheconstructionofSolomon\'sTemplewerefloatedtoJaffainrafts，andthenarrowopeninginthereefthroughwhichtheypassedtotheshoreisnotaninchwiderorashadelessdangeroustonavigatethanitwasthen。SuchisthesleepynatureofthepopulationPalestine\'sonlygoodseaporthasnowandalwayshad。Jaffahasahistoryandastirringone。Itwillnotbediscoveredanywhereinthisbook。Ifthereaderwillcallatthecirculatinglibraryandmentionmyname，hewillbefurnishedwithbookswhichwillaffordhimthefullestinformationconcerningJaffa。
Soendsthepilgrimage。Weoughttobegladthatwedidnotmakeitforthepurposeoffeastingoureyesuponfascinatingaspectsofnature，forweshouldhavebeendisappointed——atleastatthisseasonoftheyear。Awriterin\"LifeintheHolyLand\"observes:\"MonotonousanduninvitingasmuchoftheHolyLandwillappeartopersonsaccustomedtothealmostconstantverdureofflowers，amplestreamsandvariedsurfaceofourowncountry，wemustrememberthatitsaspecttotheIsraelitesafterthewearymarchoffortyyearsthroughthedesertmusthavebeenverydifferent。\"Whichallofuswillfreelygrant。Butittrulyis\"monotonousanduninviting，\"andthereisnosufficientreasonfordescribingitasbeingotherwise。
Ofallthelandstherearefordismalscenery，IthinkPalestinemustbetheprince。Thehillsarebarren，theyaredullofcolor，theyareunpicturesqueinshape。Thevalleysareunsightlydesertsfringedwithafeeblevegetationthathasanexpressionaboutitofbeingsorrowfulanddespondent。TheDeadSeaandtheSeaofGalileesleepinthemidstofavaststretchofhillandplainwhereintheeyerestsuponnopleasanttint，nostrikingobject，nosoftpicturedreaminginapurplehazeormottledwiththeshadowsoftheclouds。Everyoutlineisharsh，everyfeatureisdistinct，thereisnoperspective——distanceworksnoenchantmenthere。Itisahopeless，dreary，heart—brokenland。
Smallshredsandpatchesofitmustbeverybeautifulinthefullflushofspring，however，andallthemorebeautifulbycontrastwiththefar—reachingdesolationthatsurroundsthemoneveryside。IwouldlikemuchtoseethefringesoftheJordaninspring—time，andShechem，Esdraelon，AjalonandthebordersofGalilee——buteventhenthesespotswouldseemmeretoygardenssetatwideintervalsinthewasteofalimitlessdesolation。
Palestinesitsinsackclothandashes。Overitbroodsthespellofacursethathaswithereditsfieldsandfettereditsenergies。WhereSodomandGomorrahrearedtheirdomesandtowers，thatsolemnseanowfloodstheplain，inwhosebitterwatersnolivingthingexists——overwhosewavelesssurfacetheblisteringairhangsmotionlessanddead——aboutwhosebordersnothinggrowsbutweeds，andscatteringtuftsofcane，andthattreacherousfruitthatpromisesrefreshmenttoparchinglips，butturnstoashesatthetouch。Nazarethisforlorn;aboutthatfordofJordanwherethehostsofIsraelenteredthePromisedLandwithsongsofrejoicing，onefindsonlyasqualidcampoffantasticBedouinsofthedesert;Jerichotheaccursed，liesamolderingruin，to—day，evenasJoshua\'smiracleleftitmorethanthreethousandyearsago;BethlehemandBethany，intheirpovertyandtheirhumiliation，havenothingaboutthemnowtoremindonethattheyonceknewthehighhonoroftheSaviour\'spresence;thehallowedspotwheretheshepherdswatchedtheirflocksbynight，andwheretheangelssangPeaceonearth，goodwilltomen，isuntenantedbyanylivingcreature，andunblessedbyanyfeaturethatispleasanttotheeye。RenownedJerusalemitself，thestateliestnameinhistory，haslostallitsancientgrandeur，andisbecormeapaupervillage;therichesofSolomonarenolongertheretocompeltheadmirationofvisitingOrientalqueens;thewonderfultemplewhichwastheprideandthegloryofIsrael，isgone，andtheOttomancrescentisliftedabovethespotwhere，onthatmostmemorabledayintheannalsoftheworld，theyrearedtheHolyCross。ThenotedSeaofGalilee，whereRomanfleetsoncerodeatanchorandthedisciplesoftheSavioursailedintheirships，waslongagodesertedbythedevoteesofwarandcommerce，anditsbordersareasilentwilderness;Caper—naumisashapelessruin;
MagdalaisthehomeofbeggaredArabs;BethsaidaandChorazinhavevanishedfromtheearth，andthe\"desertplaces\"roundaboutthemwherethousandsofmenoncelistenedtotheSaviour\'svoiceandatethemiraculousbread，sIeepinthehushofasolitudethatisinhabitedonlybybirdsofpreyandskulkingfoxes。
Palestineisdesolateandunlovely。Andwhyshoulditbeotherwise？
CanthecurseoftheDeitybeautifyaland？
Palestineisnomoreofthiswork—dayworld。Itissacredtopoetryandtradition——itisdream—land。
Chapter57
Itwasworthakingdomtobeatseaagain。Itwasarelieftodropallanxietywhatsoever——allquestionsastowhereweshouldgo;howlongweshouldstay;whetheritwereworthwhiletogoornot;allanxietiesabouttheconditionofthehorses;allsuchquestionsas\"Shallweevergettowater？\"\"Shallweeverlunch？\"\"Ferguson，howmanymoremillionmileshavewegottocreepunderthisawfulsunbeforewecamp？\"
Itwasarelieftocastallthesetorturinglittleanxietiesfaraway——ropesofsteeltheywere，andeveryonewithaseparateanddistinctstrainonit——andfeelthetemporarycontentmentthatisbornofthebanishmentofallcareandresponsibility。Wedidnotlookatthecompass:wedidnotcare，now，wheretheshipwentto，sothatshewentoutofsightoflandasquicklyaspossible。WhenItravelagain，Iwishtogoinapleasureship。Noamountofmoneycouldhavepurchasedforus，inastrangevesselandamongunfamiliarfaces，theperfectsatisfactionandthesenseofbeingathomeagainwhichweexperiencedwhenwesteppedonboardthe\"QuakerCity，\"——ourownship——afterthiswearisomepilgrimage。Itisasomethingwehavefeltalwayswhenwereturnedtoher，andasomethingwehadnodesiretosell。
Wetookoffourbluewoollenshirts，ourspurs，andheavyboots，oursanguinaryrevolversandourbuckskin—seatedpantaloons，andgotshavedandcameoutinChristiancostumeoncemore。AllbutJack，whochangedallotherarticlesofhisdress，butclungtohistravelingpantaloons。
Theystillpreservedtheiramplebuckskinseatintact;andsohisshortpeajacketandhislong，thinlegsassistedtomakehimapictu—resqueobjectwheneverhestoodontheforecastlelookingabroadupontheoceanoverthebows。Atsuchtimeshisfather\'slastinjunctionsuggesteditselftome。Hesaid:
\"Jack，myboy，youareabouttogoamongabrilliantcompanyofgentlemenandladies，whoarerefinedandcultivated，andthoroughlyaccomplishedinthemannersandcustomsofgoodsociety。Listentotheirconversation，studytheirhabitsoflife，andlearn。Bepoliteandobligingtoall，andconsideratetowardseveryone\'sopinions，failingsandprejudices。Commandthejustrespectofallyourfellow—voyagers，eventhoughyoufailtowintheirfriendlyregard。AndJack——don\'tyoueverdare，whileyoulive，appearinpubliconthosedecksinfairweather，inacostumeunbecomingyourmother\'sdrawing—room！\"
Itwouldhavebeenworthanypriceifthefatherofthishopefulyouthcouldhavesteppedonboardsometime，andseenhimstandinghighonthefore—castle，peajacket，tasseledredfez，buckskinpatchandall，placidlycontemplatingtheocean——ararespectacleforanybody\'sdrawing—room。
Afterapleasantvoyageandagoodrest，wedrewneartoEgyptandoutofthemellowestofsunsetswesawthedomesandminaretsofAlexandriariseintoview。Assoonastheanchorwasdown，JackandIgotaboatandwentashore。Itwasnightbythistime，andtheotherpassengerswerecontenttoremainathomeandvisitancientEgyptafterbreakfast。ItwasthewaytheydidatConstantinople。Theytookalivelyinterestinnewcountries，buttheirschool—boyimpatiencehadwornoff，andtheyhadlearnedthatitwaswisdomtotakethingseasyandgoalongcomfortably——theseoldcountriesdonotgoawayinthenight;theystaytillafterbreakfast。
WhenwereachedthepierwefoundanarmyofEgyptianboyswithdonkeysnolargerthanthemselves，waitingforpassengers——fordonkeysaretheomnibusesofEgypt。Wepreferredtowalk，butwecouldnothaveourownway。Theboyscrowdedaboutus，clamoredaroundus，andslewedtheirdonkeysexactlyacrossourpath，nomatterwhichwayweturned。Theyweregood—naturedrascals，andsowerethedonkeys。Wemounted，andtheboysranbehindusandkeptthedonkeysinafuriousgallop，asisthefashionatDamascus。
IbelieveIwouldratherrideadonkeythananybeastintheworld。Hegoesbriskly，heputsonnoairs，heisdocile，thoughopinionated。Satanhimselfcouldnotscarehim，andheisconvenient——veryconvenient。Whenyouaretiredridingyoucanrestyourfeetonthegroundandlethimgallopfromunderyou。
Wefoundthehotelandsecuredrooms，andwerehappytoknowthatthePrinceofWaleshadstoppedthereonce。Theyhaditeverywhereonsigns。
Nootherprinceshadstoppedtheresince，tillJackandIcame。Wewentabroadthroughthetown，then，andfounditacityofhugecommercialbuildings，andbroad，handsomestreetsbrilliantwithgas—light。BynightitwasasortofreminiscenceofParis。ButfinallyJackfoundanice—creamsaloon，andthatclosedinvestigationsforthatevening。Theweatherwasveryhot，ithadbeenmanyadaysinceJackhadseenice—cream，andsoitwasuselesstotalkofleavingthesaloontillitshutup。
InthemorningthelosttribesofAmericacameashoreandinfestedthehotelsandtookpossessionofallthedonkeysandotheropenbarouchesthatoffered。TheywentinpicturesqueprocessiontotheAmericanConsul\'s;
tothegreatgardens;toCleopatra\'sNeedles;toPompey\'sPillar;tothepalaceoftheViceroyofEgypt;totheNile;tothesuperbgrovesofdate—palms。
Oneofourmostinveteraterelic—huntershadhishammerwithhim，andtriedtobreakafragmentofftheuprightNeedleandcouldnotdoit;hetriedtheprostrateoneandfailed;heborrowedaheavysledgehammerfromamasonandtriedagain。HetriedPompey\'sPillar，andthisbaffledhim。
Scatteredallaboutthemightymonolithweresphinxesofnoblecountenance，carvedoutofEgyptiangraniteashardasbluesteel，andwhoseshapelyfeaturesthewearoffivethousandyearshadfailedtomarkormar。Therelic—hunterbatteredatthesepersistently，andsweatedprofuselyoverhiswork。Hemightaswellhaveattemptedtodefacethemoon。Theyregardedhimserenelywiththestatelysmiletheyhadwornsolong，andwhichseemedtosay，\"Peckaway，poorinsect;wewerenotmadetofearsuchasyou;
inten—scoredraggingageswehaveseenmoreofyourkindthantherearesandsatyourfeet:havetheyleftablemishuponus？\"
ButIamforgettingtheJaffaColonists。AtJaffawehadtakenonboardsomefortymembersofaverycelebratedcommunity。Theyweremaleandfemale;
babies，youngboysandyounggirls;youngmarriedpeople，andsomewhohadpassedashadebeyondtheprimeoflife。Irefertothe\"AdamsJaffaColony。\"Othershaddesertedbefore。WeleftinJaffaMr。Adams，hiswife，andfifteenunfortunateswhonotonlyhadnomoneybutdidnotknowwheretoturnorwhithertogo。Suchwasthestatementmadetous。Ourfortyweremiserableenoughinthefirstplace，andtheylayaboutthedecksseasickallthevoyage，whichaboutcompletedtheirmisery，Itakeit。
However，oneortwoyoungmenremainedupright，andbyconstantpersecutionwewormedoutofthemsomelittleinformation。Theygaveitreluctantlyandinaveryfragmentarycondition，for，havingbeenshamefullyhumbuggedbytheirprophet，theyfelthumiliatedandunhappy。Insuchcircumstancespeopledonotliketotalk。
Thecolonywasacompletefiasco。Ihavealreadysaidthatsuchascouldgetawaydidso，fromtimetotime。TheprophetAdams——onceanactor，thenseveralotherthings，afterwardaMormonandamissionary，alwaysanadventurer——remainsatJaffawithhishandfulofsorrowfulsubjects。
Thefortywebroughtawaywithuswerechieflydestitute，thoughnotallofthem。TheywishedtogettoEgypt。Whatmightbecomeofthemthentheydidnotknowandprobablydidnotcare——anythingtogetawayfromhatedJaffa。Theyhadlittletohopefor。BecauseaftermanyappealstothesympathiesofNewEngland，madebystrangersofBoston，throughthenewspapers，andaftertheestablishmentofanofficethereforthereceptionofmoneyedcontributionsfortheJaffacolonists，OneDollarwassubscribed。Theconsul—generalforEgyptshowedmethenewspaperparagraphwhichmentionedthecircumstanceandmentionedalsothediscontinuanceoftheeffortandtheclosingoftheoffice。ItwasevidentthatpracticalNewEnglandwasnotsorrytoberidofsuchvisionariesandwasnotintheleastinclinedtohireanybodytobringthembacktoher。Still，togettoEgypt，wassomething，intheeyesoftheunfortunatecolonists，hopelessastheprospectseemedofevergettingfurther。
Thuscircumstanced，theylandedatAlexandriafromourship。Oneofourpassengers，Mr。MosesS。Beach，oftheNewYorkSun，inquiredoftheconsul—generalwhatitwouldcosttosendthesepeopletotheirhomeinMainebythewayofLiverpool，andhesaidfifteenhundreddollarsingoldwoulddoit。Mr。BeachgavehischeckforthemoneyandsothetroublesoftheJaffacolonistswereatanend。**Itwasanunselfishactofbenevolence;itwasdonewithoutanyostentation，andhasneverbeenmentionedinanynewspaper，Ithink。