Theinsideofthegreatmosqueisveryshowywithvariegatedmarblewallsandwithwindowsandinscriptionsofelaboratemosaic。TheTurkshavetheirsacredrelics，liketheCatholics。TheguideshowedustheveritablearmorwornbythegreatsoninlawandsuccessorofMahomet，andalsothebucklerofMahomet\'suncle。Thegreatironrailingwhichsurroundstherockwasornamentedinoneplacewithathousandragstiedtoitsopenwork。ThesearetoremindMahometnottoforgettheworshiperswhoplacedthemthere。Itisconsideredthenextbestthingtotyingthreadsaroundhisfingerbywayofreminders。
Justoutsidethemosqueisaminiaturetemple，whichmarksthespotwhereDavidandGoliathusedtositandjudgethepeople。**ApilgriminformsmethatitwasnotDavidandGoliath，butDavidandSaul。Isticktomyownstatementtheguidetoldme，andheoughttoknow。EverywhereabouttheMosqueofOmarareportionsofpillars，curiouslywroughtaltars，andfragmentsofelegantlycarvedmarble——preciousremainsofSolomon\'sTemple。ThesehavebeendugfromalldepthsinthesoilandrubbishofMountMoriah，andtheMoslemshavealwaysshownadispositiontopreservethemwiththeutmostcare。AtthatportionoftheancientwallofSolomon\'sTemplewhichiscalledtheJew\'sPlaceofWailing，andwheretheHebrewsassembleeveryFridaytokisstheveneratedstonesandweepoverthefallengreatnessofZion，anyonecanseeapartoftheunquestionedandundisputedTempleofSolomon，thesameconsistingofthreeorfourstoneslyingoneupontheother，eachofwhichisabouttwiceaslongasasevenoctavepiano，andaboutasthickassuchapianoishigh。But，asIhaveremarkedbefore，itisonlyayearortwoagothattheancientedictprohibitingChristianrubbishlikeourselvestoentertheMosqueofOmarandseethecostlymarblesthatonceadornedtheinnerTemplewasannulled。Thedesignswroughtuponthesefragmentsareallquaintandpeculiar，andsothecharmofnoveltyisaddedtothedeepinteresttheynaturallyinspire。Onemeetswiththesevenerablescrapsateveryturn，especiallyintheneighboringMosqueelAksa，intowhoseinnerwallsaverylargenumberofthemarecarefullybuiltforpreservation。Thesepiecesofstone，stainedanddustywithage，dimlyhintatagrandeurwehaveallbeentaughttoregardastheprinceliesteverseenonearth;andtheycalluppicturesofapageantthatisfamiliartoallimaginations——camelsladenwithspicesandtreasure——beautifulslaves，presentsforSolomon\'sharem——alongcavalcadeofrichlycaparisonedbeastsandwarriors——
andSheba\'sQueeninthevanofthisvisionof\"Orientalmagnificence。\"
TheseelegantfragmentsbeararicherinterestthanthesolemnvastnessofthestonestheJewskissinthePlaceofWailingcaneverhavefortheheedlesssinner。
Downinthehollowground，underneaththeolivesandtheorangetreesthatflourishinthecourtofthegreatMosque，isawildernessofpillars——remainsoftheancientTemple;theysupportedit。Thereareponderousarchwaysdownthere，also，overwhichthedestroying\"plough\"ofprophecypassedharmless。Itispleasanttoknowwearedisappointed，inthatweneverdreamedwemightseeportionsoftheactualTempleofSolomon，andyetexperiencenoshadowofsuspicionthattheywereamonkishhumbugandafraud。
Wearesurfeitedwithsights。Nothinghasanyfascinationforus，now，buttheChurchoftheHolySepulchre。Wehavebeenthereeveryday，andhavenotgrowntiredofit;butwearewearyofeverythingelse。Thesightsaretoomany。Theyswarmaboutyouateverystep;nosinglefootofgroundinallJerusalemorwithinitsneighborhoodseemstobewithoutastirringandimportanthistoryofitsown。Itisaveryrelieftostealawalkofahundredyardswithoutaguidealongtotalkunceasinglyabouteverystoneyoustepuponanddragyoubackagesandagestothedaywhenitachievedcelebrity。
ItseemshardlyrealwhenIfindmyselfleaningforamomentonaruinedwallandlookinglistlesslydownintothehistoricpoolofBethesda。
Ididnotthinksuchthingscouldbesocrowdedtogetherastodiminishtheirinterest。Butinserioustruth，wehavebeendriftingabout，forseveraldays，usingoureyesandourearsmorefromasenseofdutythananyhigherandworthierreason。Andtoooftenwehavebeengladwhenitwastimetogohomeandbedistressednomoreaboutillustriouslocalities。
Ourpilgrimscompresstoomuchintooneday。Onecangorgesightstorepletionaswellassweetmeats。Sincewebreakfasted，thismorning，wehaveseenenoughtohavefurnishedusfoodforayear\'sreflectionifwecouldhaveseenthevariousobjectsincomfortandlookeduponthemdeliberately。
WevisitedthepoolofHezekiah，whereDavidsawUriah\'swifecomingfromthebathandfellinlovewithher。
WewentoutofthecitybytheJaffagate，andofcourseweretoldmanythingsaboutitsTowerofHippicus。
WerodeacrosstheValleyofHinnom，betweentwoofthePoolsofGihon，andbyanaqueductbuiltbySolomon，whichstillconveyswatertothecity。
WeascendedtheHillofEvilCounsel，whereJudasreceivedhisthirtypiecesofsilver，andwealsolingeredamomentunderthetreeavenerabletraditionsayshehangedhimselfon。
Wedescendedtothecanonagain，andthentheguidebegantogivenameandhistorytoeverybankandboulderwecameto:\"ThiswastheFieldofBlood;thesecuttingsintherockswereshrinesandtemplesofMoloch;
heretheysacrificedchildren;yonderistheZionGate;theTyropeanValley，theHillofOphel;hereisthejunctionoftheValleyofJehoshaphat——
onyourrightistheWellofJob。\"WeturnedupJehoshaphat。Therecitalwenton。\"ThisistheMountofOlives;thisistheHillofOffense;thenestofhutsistheVillageofSiloam;here，yonder，everywhere，istheKing\'sGarden;underthisgreattreeZacharias，thehighpriest，wasmurdered;
yonderisMountMoriahandtheTemplewall;thetombofAbsalom;thetombofSt。James;thetombofZacharias;beyond，aretheGardenofGethsemaneandthetomboftheVirginMary;hereisthePoolofSiloam，and——\"
Wesaidwewoulddismount，andquenchourthirst，andrest。Wewereburningupwiththeheat。Wewerefailingundertheaccumulatedfatigueofdaysanddaysofceaselessmarching。Allwerewilling。
ThePoolisadeep，walledditch，throughwhichaclearstreamofwaterruns，thatcomesfromunderJerusalemsomewhere，andpassingthroughtheFountainoftheVirgin，orbeingsuppliedfromit，reachesthisplacebywayofatunnelofheavymasonry。ThefamouspoollookedexactlyasitlookedinSolomon\'stime，nodoubt，andthesamedusky，Orientalwomen，camedownintheiroldOrientalway，andcarriedoffjarsofthewaterontheirheads，justastheydidthreethousandyearsago，andjustastheywilldofiftythousandyearshenceifanyofthemarestillleftonearth。
WewentawayfromthereandstoppedattheFountainoftheVirgin。Butthewaterwasnotgood，andtherewasnocomfortorpeaceanywhere，onaccountoftheregimentofboysandgirlsandbeggarsthatpersecutedusallthetimeforbucksheesh。Theguidewantedustogivethemsomemoney，andwedidit;butwhenhewentontosaythattheywerestarvingtodeathwecouldnotbutfeelthatwehaddoneagreatsininthrowingobstaclesinthewayofsuchadesirableconsummation，andsowetriedtocollectitback，butitcouldnotbedone。
WeenteredtheGardenofGethsemane，andwevisitedtheTomboftheVirgin，bothofwhichwehadseenbefore。ItisnotmeetthatIshouldspeakofthemnow。Amorefittingtimewillcome。
IcannotspeaknowoftheMountofOlivesoritsviewofJerusalem，theDeadSeaandthemountainsofMoab;noroftheDamascusGateorthetreethatwasplantedbyKingGodfreyofJerusalem。Oneoughttofeelpleasantlywhenhetalksofthesethings。IcannotsayanythingaboutthestonecolumnthatprojectsoverJehoshaphatfromtheTemplewalllikeacannon，exceptthattheMoslemsbelieveMahometwillsitastrideofitwhenhecomestojudgetheworld。ItisapityhecouldnotjudgeitfromsomeroostofhisowninMecca，withouttrespassingonourholyground。ClosebyistheGoldenGate，intheTemplewall——agatethatwasanelegantpieceofsculptureinthetimeoftheTemple，andisevensoyet。Fromit，inancienttimes，theJewishHighPriestturnedloosethescapegoatandlethimfleetothewildernessandbearawayhistwelvemonthloadofthesinsofthepeople。Iftheyweretoturnoneloosenow，hewouldnotgetasfarastheGardenofGethsemane，tillthesemiserablevagabondsherewouldgobblehimup，*sinsandall。Theywouldn\'tcare。Muttonchopsandsinisgoodenoughlivingforthem。TheMoslemswatchtheGoldenGatewithajealouseye，andananxiousone，fortheyhaveanhonoredtraditionthatwhenitfalls，IslamismwillfallandwithittheOttomanEmpire。
Itdidnotgrievemeanytonoticethattheoldgatewasgettingalittleshaky。*Favoritepilgrimexpression。
Weareathomeagain。Weareexhausted。Thesunhasroastedus，almost。
Wehavefullcomfortinonereflection，however。OurexperiencesinEuropehavetaughtusthatintimethisfatiguewillbeforgotten;theheatwillbeforgotten;thethirst，thetiresomevolubilityoftheguide，thepersecutionsofthebeggars——andthen，allthatwillbeleftwillbepleasantmemoriesofJerusalem，memoriesweshallcallupwithalwaysincreasinginterestastheyearsgoby，memorieswhichsomedaywillbecomeallbeautifulwhenthelastannoyancethatincumbersthemshallhavefadedoutofourmindsneveragaintoreturn。Schoolboydaysarenohappierthanthedaysofafterlife，butwelookbackuponthemregretfullybecausewehaveforgottenourpunishmentsatschool，andhowwegrievedwhenourmarbleswerelostandourkitesdestroyed——becausewehaveforgottenallthesorrowsandprivationsofthatcanonizedepochandrememberonlyitsorchardrobberies，itswoodenswordpageantsanditsfishingholydays。
Wearesatisfied。Wecanwait。Ourrewardwillcome。Tous，Jerusalemandtoday\'sexperienceswillbeanenchantedmemoryayearhence——memorywhichmoneycouldnotbuyfromus。
Chapter55
Wecastuptheaccount。Itfootedupprettyfairly。TherewasnothingmoreatJerusalemtobeseen，exceptthetraditionalhousesofDivesandLazarusoftheparable，theTombsoftheKings，andthoseoftheJudges;
thespotwheretheystonedoneofthedisciplestodeath，andbeheadedanother;theroomandthetablemadecelebratedbytheLastSupper;thefig—treethatJesuswithered;anumberofhistoricalplacesaboutGethsemaneandtheMountofOlives，andfifteenortwentyothersindifferentportionsofthecityitself。
Wewereapproachingtheend。Humannatureasserteditself，now。Overworkandconsequentexhaustionbegantohavetheirnaturaleffect。Theybegantomastertheenergiesanddulltheardoroftheparty。Perfectlysecurenow，againstfailingtoaccomplishanydetailofthepilgrimage，theyfeltlikedrawinginadvanceupontheholidaysoontobeplacedtotheircredit。
Theygrewalittlelazy。Theywerelatetobreakfastandsatlongatdinner。
Thirtyorfortypilgrimshadarrivedfromtheship，bytheshortroutes，andmuchswappingofgossiphadtobeindulgedin。Andinhotafternoons，theyshowedastrongdispositiontolieonthecooldivansinthehotelandsmokeandtalkaboutpleasantexperiencesofamonthorsogoneby——foreventhusearlydoepisodesoftravelwhichweresometimesannoying，sometimesexasperatingandfullasoftenofnoconsequenceatallwhentheytranspired，begintoriseabovethedeadlevelofmonotonousreminiscencesandbecomeshapelylandmarksinone\'smemory。Thefog—whistle，smotheredamongamillionoftriflingsounds，isnotnoticedablockaway，inthecity，butthesailorhearsitfaratsea，whithernoneofthosethousandsoftrifiingsoundscanreach。WhenoneisinRome，allthedomesarealike;
butwhenhehasgoneawaytwelvemiles，thecityfadesutterlyfromsightandleavesSt。Peter\'sswellingabovethelevelplainlikeananchoredballoon。WhenoneistravelinginEurope，thedailyincidentsseemallalike;butwhenhehasplacedthemalltwomonthsandtwothousandmilesbehindhim，thosethatwereworthyofbeingrememberedareprominent，andthosethatwerereallyinsignificanthavevanished。Thisdispositiontosmoke，andidleandtalk，wasnotwell。Itwasplainthatitmustnotbeallowedtogainground。Adiversionmustbetried，ordemoralizationwouldensue。TheJordan，JerichoandtheDeadSeaweresuggested。TheremainderofJerusalemmustbeleftunvisited，foralittlewhile。Thejourneywasapprovedatonce。Newlifestirredineverypulse。Inthesaddle——abroadontheplains——sleepinginbedsboundedonlybythehorizon:fancywasatworkwiththesethingsinamoment。——Itwaspainfultonotehowreadilythesetown—bredmenhadtakentothefreelifeofthecampandthedesertThenomadicinstinctisahumaninstinct;itwasbornwithAdamandtransmittedthroughthepatriarchs，andafterthirtycenturiesofsteadyeffort，civilizationhasnoteducateditentirelyoutofusyet。Ithasacharmwhich，oncetasted，amanwillyearntotasteagain。ThenomadicinstinctcannotbeeducatedoutofanIndianatall。
TheJordanjourneybeingapproved，ourdragomanwasnotified。
Atnineinthemorningthecaravanwasbeforethehoteldoorandwewereatbreakfast。Therewasacommotionabouttheplace。Rumorsofwarandbloodshedwereflyingeverywhere。ThelawlessBedouinsintheValleyoftheJordanandthedesertsdownbytheDeadSeawereupinarms，andweregoingtodestroyallcomers。TheyhadhadabattlewithatroopofTurkishcavalryanddefeatedthem;severalmenkilled。TheyhadshutuptheinhabitantsofavillageandaTurkishgarrisoninanoldfortnearJericho，andwerebesiegingthem。TheyhadmarcheduponacampofourexcursionistsbytheJordan，andthepilgrimsonlysavedtheirlivesbystealingawayandflyingtoJerusalemunderwhipandspurinthedarknessofthenight。
Anotherofourpartieshadbeenfiredonfromanambushandthenattackedintheopenday。Shotswerefiredonbothsides。Fortunatelytherewasnobloodshed。Wespokewiththeverypilgrimwhohadfiredoneoftheshots，andlearnedfromhisownlipshow，inthisimminentdeadlyperil，onlythecoolcourageofthepilgrims，theirstrengthofnumbersandimposingdisplayofwarmaterial，hadsavedthemfromutterdestruction。ItwasreportedthattheConsulhadrequestedthatnomoreofourpilgrimsshouldgototheJordanwhilethisstateofthingslasted;andfurther，thathewasunwillingthatanymoreshouldgo，atleastwithoutanunusuallystrongmilitaryguard。Herewastrouble。Butwiththehorsesatthedoorandeverybodyawareofwhattheyweretherefor，whatwouldyouhavedone？Acknowledgedthatyouwereafraid，andbackedshamefullyout？Hardly。Itwouldnotbehumannature，wherethereweresomanywomen。Youwouldhavedoneaswedid:saidyouwerenotafraidofamillionBedouins——andmadeyourwillandproposedquietlytoyourselftotakeupanunostentatiouspositionintherearoftheprocession。
Ithinkwemustallhavedetermineduponthesamelineoftactics，foritdidseemasifweneverwouldgettoJericho。Ihadanotoriouslyslowhorse，butsomehowIcouldnotkeephimintherear，tosavermyneck。
Hewasforeverturningupinthelead。InsuchcasesItrembledalittle，andgotdowntofixmysaddle。Butitwasnotofanyuse。Theothersallgotdowntofixtheirsaddles，too。Ineversawsuchatimewithsaddles。
Itwasthefirsttimeanyofthemhadgotoutoforderinthreeweeks，andnowtheyhadallbrokendovvnatonce。Itriedwalking，forexercise——IhadnothadenoughinJerusalemsearchingforholyplaces。Butitwasafailure。Thewholemobweresufferingforexercise，anditwasnotfifteenminutestilltheywereallonfootandIhadtheleadagain。Itwasverydiscouraging。
ThiswasallafterwegotbeyondBethany。WestoppedatthevillageofBethany，anhouroutfromJerusalem。TheyshowedusthetombofLazarus。
Ihadratherliveinitthaninanyhouseinthetown。Andtheyshowedusalsoalarge\"FountainofLazarus，\"andinthecentreofthevillagetheancientdwellingofLazarus。Lazarusappearstohavebeenamanofproperty。ThelegendsoftheSundaySchoolsdohimgreatinjustice;theygiveonetheimpressionthathewaspoor。ItisbecausetheygethimconfusedwiththatLazaruswhohadnomeritbuthisvirtne，andvirtueneverhasbeenasrespectableasmoney。ThehouseofLazarusisathree—storyedifice，ofstonemasonry，buttheaccumulatedrubbishofageshasburiedallofitbuttheupperstory。Wetookcandlesanddescendedtothedismalcell—likechamberswhereJesussatatmeatwithMarthaandMary，andconversedwiththemabouttheirbrother。Wecouldnotbutlookupontheseolddingyapartmentswithamorethancommoninterest。
Wehadhadaglimpse，fromamountaintop，oftheDeaoSea，lyinglikeablueshieldintheplainoftheJordan，andnowweweremarchingdownaclose，flaming，rugged，desolatedefile，wherenolivingcreaturecouldenjoylife，except，perhaps，asalamander。Itwassuchadreary，repulsive，horriblesolitude！Itwasthe\"wilderness\"whereJohnpreached，withcamel\'shairabouthisloins——raimentenough——buthenevercouldhavegothislocustsandwildhoneyhere。Weweremopingalongdownthroughthisdreadfulplace，everymanintherear。Ourguards——twogorgeousyoungArabsheiks，withcargoesofswords，guns，pistolsanddaggersonboard——wereloafingahead。
\"Bedouins！\"
Everymanshrunkupanddisappearedinhisclotheslikeamud—turtle。
MyfirstimpulsewastodashforwardanddestroytheBedouins。Mysecondwastodashtothereartoseeiftherewereanycominginthatdirection。
Iactedonthelatterimpulse。Sodidalltheothers。IfanyBedouinshadapproachedus，then，fromthatpointofthecompass，theywouldhavepaiddearlyfortheirrashness。Weallremarkedthat，afterwards。Therewouldhavebeenscenesofriotandbloodshedtherethatnopencoulddescribe。
Iknowthat，becauseeachmantoldwhathewouldhavedone，individually;
andsuchamedleyofstrangeandunheard—ofinventionsofcrueltyyoucouldnotconceiveof。Onemansaidhehadcalmlymadeuphismindtoperishwherehestood，ifneedbe，butneveryieldaninch;hewasgoingtowait，withdeadlypatience，tillhecouldcountthestripesuponthefirstBedouin\'sjacket，andthencountthemandlethimhaveit。Anotherwasgoingtositstilltillthefirstlancereachedwithinaninchofhisbreast，andthendodgeitandseizeit。IforbeartotellwhathewasgoingtodotothatBedouinthatownedit。Itmakesmybloodruncoldtothinkofit。AnotherwasgoingtoscalpsuchBedouinsasfelltohisshare，andtakehisbald—headedsonsofthedeserthomewithhimalivefortrophies。Butthewild—eyedpilgrimrhapsodistwassilent。Hisorbsgleamedwithadeadlylight，buthislipsmovednot。Anxietygrew，andhewasquestioned。IfhehadgotaBedouin，whatwouldhehavedonewithhim——shothim？Hesmiledasmileofgrimcontemptandshookhishead。Wouldhehavestabbedhim？Anothershake。Wouldhehavequarteredhim——flayedhim？Moreshakes。Oh！horrorwhatwouldhehavedone？
\"Eathim！\"
Suchwastheawfulsentencethatthunderedfromhislips。Whatwasgrammartoadesperadolikethat？IwasgladinmyheartthatIhadbeensparedthesescenesofmalignantcarnage。NoBedouinsattackedourterriblerear。
Andnoneattackedthefront。Thenew—comerswereonlyareinforcementofcadaverousArabs，inshirtsandbarelegs，sentfaraheadofustobrandishrustyguns，andshoutandbrag，andcarryonlikelunatics，andthusscareawayallbandsofmaraudingBedouinsthatmightlurkaboutourpath。WhatashameitisthatarmedwhiteChristiansmusttravelunderguardofverminlikethisasaprotectionagainsttheprowlingvagabondsofthedesert——thosesanguinaryoutlawswhoarealwaysgoingtodosomethingdesperate，butneverdoit。ImayaswellmentionherethatonourwholetripwesawnoBedouins，andhadnomoreuseforanArabguardthanwecouldhavehadforpatentleatherbootsandwhitekidgloves。TheBedouinsthatattackedtheotherpartiesofpilgrimssofiercelywereprovidedfortheoccasionbytheArabguardsofthoseparties，andshippedfromJerusalemfortemporaryserviceasBedouins。Theymettogetherinfullviewofthepilgrims，afterthebattle，andtooklunch，dividedthebucksheeshextortedintheseasonofdanger，andthenaccompaniedthecavalcadehometothecity！ThenuisanceofanArabguardisonewhichiscreatedbytheSheiksandtheBedouinstogether，formutualprofit，itissaid，andnodoubtthereisagooddealoftruthinit。
WevisitedthefountaintheprophetElishasweetened（itissweetyet，）
whereheremainedsometimeandwasfedbytheravens。
AncientJerichoisnotverypicturesqueasaruin。WhenJoshuamarchedarounditseventimes，somethreethousandyearsago，andblewitdownwithhistrumpet，hedidtheworksowellandsocompletelythathehardlyleftenoughofthecitytocastashadow。Thecursepronouncedagainsttherebuildingofit，hasneverbeenremoved。OneKing，holdingthecurseinlightestimation，madetheattempt，butwasstrickensorelyforhispresumption。Itssitewillalwaysremainunoccupied;andyetitisoneoftheverybestlocationsforatownwehaveseeninallPalestine。
Attwointhemorningtheyroutedusoutofbed——anotherpieceofunwarrantedcruelty——anotherstupideffortofourdragomantogetaheadofarival。ItwasnottwohourstotheJordan。However，weweredressedandunderwaybeforeanyonethoughtoflookingtoseewhattimeitwas，andsowedrowsedonthroughthechillnightairanddreamedofcampfires，warmbeds，andothercomfortablethings。
Therewasnoconversation。Peopledonottalkwhentheyarecold，andwretched，andsleepy。Wenoddedinthesaddle，attimes，andwokeupwithastarttofindthattheprocessionhaddisappearedinthegloom。Thentherewasenergyandattentiontobusinessuntilitsduskyoutlinescameinsightagain。Occasionallytheorderwaspassedinalowvoicedowntheline:\"Closeup——closeup！Bedouinslurkhere，everywhere！\"Whatanexquisiteshudderitsentshiveringalongone\'sspine！
Wereachedthefamousriverbeforefouro\'clock，andthenightwassoblackthatwecouldhaveriddenintoitwithoutseeingit。Someofuswereinanunhappyframeofmind。Wewaitedandwaitedfordaylight，butitdidnotcome。Finallywewentawayinthedarkandsleptanhourontheground，inthebushes，andcaughtcold。Itwasacostlynap，onthataccount，butotherwiseitwasapayinginvestmentbecauseitbroughtunconsciousnessofthedrearyminutesandputusinasomewhatfittermoodforafirstglimpseofthesacredriver。
Withthefirstsuspicionofdawn，everypilgrimtookoffhisclothesandwadedintothedarktorrent，singing\"OnJordan\'sstormybanksIstand，AndcastawistfuleyeToCanaan\'sfairandhappyland，Wheremypossessionslie。\"Buttheydidnotsinglong。Thewaterwassofearfullycoldthattheywereobligedtostopsingingandscamperoutagain。Thentheystoodonthebankshivering，andsochagrinedandsogrieved，thattheymeritedholiestcompassion。
Becauseanotherdream，anothercherishedhope，hadfailed。TheyhadpromisedthemselvesallalongthattheywouldcrosstheJordanwheretheIsraelitescrosseditwhentheyenteredCanaanfromtheirlongpilgrimageinthedesert。
Theywouldcrosswherethetwelvestoneswereplacedinmemoryofthatgreatevent。Whiletheydidittheywouldpicturetothemselvesthatvastarmyofpilgrimsmarchingthroughtheclovenwaters，bearingthehallowedarkofthecovenantandshoutinghosannahs，andsingingsongsofthanksgivingandpraise。Eachhadpromisedhimselfthathewouldbethefirsttocross。
Theywereatthegoaloftheirhopesatlast，butthecurrentwastooswift，thewaterwastoocold！
ItwasthenthatJackdidthemaservice。Withthatengagingrecklessnessofconsequenceswhichisnaturaltoyouth，andsoproperandsoseemly，aswell，hewentandledthewayacrosstheJordan，andallwashappinessagain。Everyindividualwadedover，then，andstooduponthefurtherbank。
Thewaterwasnotquitebreastdeep，anywhere。Ifithadbeenmore，wecouldhardlyhaveaccomplishedthefeat，forthestrongcurrentwouldhavesweptusdownthestream，andwewouldhavebeenexhaustedanddrownedbeforereachingaplacewherewecouldmakealanding。Themainobjectcompassed，thedrooping，miserablepartysatdowntowaitforthesunagain，forallwantedtoseethewateraswellasfeelit。Butitwastoocoldapastime。Somecanswerefilledfromtheholyriver，somecanescutfromitsbanks，andthenwemountedandrodereluctantlyawaytokeepfromfreezingtodeath。SowesawtheJordanverydimly。Thethicketsofbushesthatbordereditsbanksthrewtheirshadowsacrossitsshallow，turbulentwaters（\"stormy，\"thehymnmakesthem，whichisratheracomplimentarystretchoffancy，）andwecouldnotjudgeofthewidthofthestreambytheeye。
Weknewbyourwadingexperience，however，thatmanystreetsinAmericaaredoubleaswideastheJordan。
Daylightcame，soonafterwegotunderway，andinthecourseofanhourortwowereachedtheDeadSea。Nothinggrowsintheflat，burningdesertarounditbutweedsandtheDeadSeaapplethepoetssayisbeautifultotheeye，butcrumblestoashesanddustwhenyoubreakit。Suchaswefoundwerenothandsome，buttheywerebittertothetaste。Theyyieldednodust。Itwasbecausetheywerenotripe，perhaps。
Thedesertandthebarrenhillsgleampainfullyinthesun，aroundtheDeadSea，andthereisnopleasantthingorlivingcreatureuponitoraboutitsborderstocheertheeye。Itisascorching，arid，repulsivesolitude。Asilencebroodsoverthescenethatisdepressingtothespirits。
Itmakesonethinkoffuneralsanddeath。
TheDeadSeaissmall。Itswatersareveryclear，andithasapebblybottomandisshallowforsomedistanceoutfromtheshores。Ityieldsquantitiesofasphaltum;fragmentsofitlieallaboutitsbanks;thisstuffgivestheplacesomethingofanunpleasantsmell。
AllourreadinghadtaughtustoexpectthatthefirstplungeintotheDeadSeawouldbeattendedwithdistressingresults——ourbodieswouldfeelasiftheyweresuddenlypiercedbymillionsofred—hotneedles;thedreadfulsmartingwouldcontinueforhours;wemightevenlooktobeblisteredfromheadtofoot，andsuffermiserablyformanydays。Weweredisappointed。
Oureightspranginatthesametimethatanotherpartyofpilgrimsdid，andnobodyscreamedonce。Noneofthemeverdidcomplainofanythingmorethanaslightprickingsensationinplaceswheretheirskinwasabraded，andthenonlyforashorttime。Myfacesmartedforacoupleofhours，butitwaspartlybecauseIgotitbadlysun—burnedwhileIwasbathing，andstaidinsolongthatitbecameplasteredoverwithsalt。
No，thewaterdidnotblisterus;itdidnotcoveruswithaslimyoozeandconferuponusanatrociousfragrance;itwasnotveryslimy;andI
couldnotdiscoverthatwesmeltreallyanyworsethanwehavealwayssmeltsincewehavebeeninPalestine。Itwasonlyadifferentkindofsmell，butnotconspicuousonthataccount，becausewehaveagreatdealofvarietyinthatrespect。Wedidn\'tsmell，thereontheJordan，thesameaswedoinJerusalem;andwedon\'tsmellinJerusalemjustaswedidinNazareth，orTiberias，orCesareaPhilippi，oranyofthoseotherruinousancienttownsinGalilee。No，wechangeallthetime，andgenerallyfortheworse。
Wedoourownwashing。
Itwasafunnybath。Wecouldnotsink。Onecouldstretchhimselfatfulllengthonhisback，withhisarmsonhisbreast，andallofhisbodyabovealinedrawnfromthecornerofhisjawpastthemiddleofhisside，themiddleofhislegandthroughhisanclebone，wouldremainoutofwater。
Hecouldlifthisheadclearout，ifhechose。Nopositioncanberetainedlong;youloseyourbalanceandwhirlover，firstonyourbackandthenonyourface，andsoon。Youcanliecomfortably，onyourback，withyourheadout，andyourlegsoutfromyourkneesdown，bysteadyingyourselfwithyourhands。Youcansit，withyourkneesdrawnuptoyourchinandyourarmsclaspedaroundthem，butyouareboundtoturnoverpresently，becauseyouaretop—heavyinthatposition。Youcanstandupstraightinwaterthatisoveryourhead，andfromthemiddleofyourbreastupwardyouwillnotbewet。Butyoucannotremainso。Thewaterwillsoonfloatyourfeettothesurface。Youcannotswimonyourbackandmakeanyprogressofanyconsequence，becauseyourfeetstickawayabovethesurface，andthereisnothingtopropelyourselfwithbutyourheels。Ifyouswimonyourface，youkickupthewaterlikeastern—wheelboat。Youmakenoheadway。
Ahorseissotop—heavythathecanneitherswimnorstandupintheDeadSea。Heturnsoveronhissideatonce。Someofusbathedformorethananhour，andthencameoutcoatedwithsalttillweshonelikeicicles。
Wescrubbeditoffwithacoarsetowelandrodeoffwithasplendidbrand—newsmell，thoughitwasonewhichwasnotanymoredisagreeablethanthosewehavebeenforseveralweeksenjoying。Itwasthevariegatedvillainyandnoveltyofitthatcharmedus。Saltcrystalsglitterinthesunabonttheshoresofthelake。Inplacestheycoatthegroundlikeabrilliantcrustofice。