第30章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"The Innocents Abroad",免费读到尾

  NotfarfromherewasanichewheretheyusedtopreserveapieceoftheTrueCross,butitisgone,now。Thispieceofthecrosswasdiscoveredinthesixteenthcentury。TheLatinpriestssayitwasstolenaway,longago,bypriestsofanothersect。Thatseemslikeahardstatementtomake,butweknowverywellthatitwasstolen,becausewehaveseenitourselvesinseveralofthecathedralsofItalyandFrance。

  ButtherelicthattouchedusmostwastheplainoldswordofthatstoutCrusader,GodfreyofBulloigne——KingGodfreyofJerusalem。NobladeinChristendomwieldssuchenchantmentasthis——nobladeofallthatrustintheancestralhallsofEuropeisabletoinvokesuchvisionsofromanceinthebrainofhimwholooksuponit——nonethatcanprateofsuchchivalricdeedsortellsuchbravetalesofthewarriordaysofold。ItstirswithinamaneverymemoryoftheHolyWarsthathasbeensleepinginhisbrainforyears,andpeopleshisthoughtswithmail—cladimages,withmarchingarmies,withbattlesandwithsieges。ItspeakstohimofBaldwin,andTancred,theprincelySaladin,andgreatRichardoftheLionHeart。Itwaswithjustsuchbladesasthesethatthesesplendidheroesofromanceusedtosegregateaman,sotospeak,andleavethehalfofhimtofallonewayandtheotherhalftheother。ThisveryswordhasclovenhundredsofSaracenKnightsfromcrowntochininthoseoldtimeswhenGodfreywieldedit。Itwasenchanted,then,byageniusthatwasunderthecommandofKingSolomon。Whendangerapproacheditsmaster\'stentitalwaysstrucktheshieldandclangedoutafiercealarmuponthestartledearofnight。Intimesofdonbt,orinfogordarkness,ifitweredrawnfromitssheathitwonldpointinstantlytowardthefoe,andthusrevealtheway——anditwouldalsoattempttostartafterthemofitsownaccord。AChristiancouldnotbesodisguisedthatitwouldnotknowhimandrefusetohurthim——noraMoslemsodisguisedthatitwouldnotleapfromitsscabbardandtakehislife。ThesestatementsareallwellauthenticatedinmanylegendsthatareamongthemosttrustworthylegendsthegoodoldCatholicmonkspreserve。IcanneverforgetoldGodfrey\'ssword,now。ItrieditonaMoslem,andclovehimintwainlikeadoughnut。ThespiritofGrimeswasuponme,andifIhadhadagraveyardIwouldhavedestroyedalltheinfidelsinJerusalem。Iwipedthebloodofftheoldswordandhandeditbacktothepriest——IdidnotwantthefreshgoretoobliteratethosesacredspotsthatcrimsoneditsbrightnessonedaysixhundredyearsagoandthusgaveGodfreywarningthatbeforethesunwentdownhisjourneyoflifewouldend。

  StillmovingthroughthegloomoftheChurchoftheHolySepulchrewecametoasmallchapel,hewnoutoftherock——aplacewhichhasbeenknownas\"ThePrisonofOurLord\"formanycenturies。TraditionsaysthatheretheSaviourwasconfinedjustpreviouslytothecrucifixion。Underanaltarbythedoorwasapairofstonestocksforhumanlegs。Thesethingsarecalledthe\"BondsofChrist,\"andtheusetheywereonceputtohasgiventhemthenametheynowbear。

  TheGreekChapelisthemostroomy,therichestandtheshowiestchapelintheChurchoftheHolySepulchre。Itsaltar,likethatofalltheGreekchurches,isaloftyscreenthatextendsclearacrossthechapel,andisgorgeouswithgildingandpictures。Thenumerouslampsthathangbeforeitareofgoldandsilver,andcostgreatsums。

  Butthefeatureoftheplaceisashortcolumnthatrisesfromthemiddleofthemarblepavementofthechapel,andmarkstheexactcentreoftheearth。Themostreliabletraditionstellusthatthiswasknowntobetheearth\'scentre,agesago,andthatwhenChristwasuponearthhesetalldoubtsuponthesubjectatrestforever,bystatingwithhisownlipsthatthetraditionwascorrect。Remember,Hesaidthatthatparticularcolumnstooduponthecentreoftheworld。Ifthecentreoftheworldchanges,thecolumnchangesitspositionaccord—ingly。Thiscolumnhasmovedthreedifferenttimesofitsownaccord。Thisisbecause,ingreatconvulsionsofnature,atthreedifferenttimes,massesoftheearth——wholerangesofmountains,probably——haveflownoffintospace,thuslesseningthediameteroftheearth,andchangingtheexactlocalityofitscentrebyapointortwo。Thisisaverycuriousandinterestingcircumstance,andisawitheringrebuketothosephilosopherswhowouldmakeusbelievethatitisnotpossibleforanyportionoftheearthtoflyoffintospace。

  Tosatisfyhimselfthatthisspotwasreallythecentreoftheearth,ascepticoncepaidwellfortheprivilegeofascendingtothedomeofthechurchtoseeifthesungavehimashadowatnoon。Hecamedownperfectlyconvinced。Thedaywasveryclondyandthesunthrewnoshadowsatall;

  butthemanwassatisfiedthatifthesunhadcomeoutandmadeshadowsitcouldnothavemadeanyforhim。Proofslikethesearenottobesetasidebytheidletonguesofcavilers。Tosuchasarenotbigoted,andarewillingtobeconvinced,theycarryaconvictionthatnothingcanevershake。

  IfevengreaterproofsthanthoseIhavementionedarewanted,tosatisfytheheadstrongandthefoolishthatthisisthegenuinecentreoftheearth,theyarehere。ThegreatestofthemliesinthefactthatfromunderthisverycolumnwastakenthedustfromwhichAdamwasmade。Thiscansurelyberegardedinthelightofasettler。Itisnotlikelythattheoriginalfirstmanwouldhavebeenmadefromaninferiorqualityofearthwhenitwasentirelyconvenienttogetfirstqualityfromtheworld\'scentre。

  Thiswillstrikeanyreflectingmindforcibly。ThatAdamwasformedofdirtprocuredinthisveryspotisamplyprovenbythefactthatinsixthousandyearsnomanhaseverbeenabletoprovethatthedirtwasnotprocuredherewhereofhewasmade。

  Itisasingularcircumstancethatrightundertheroofofthissamegreatchurch,andnotfarawayfromthatillustriouscolumn,Adamhimself,thefatherofthehumanrace,liesburied。Thereisnoquestionthatheisactuallyburiedinthegravewhichispointedoutashis——therecanbenone——becauseithasneveryetbeenproventhatthatgraveisnotthegraveinwhichheisburied。

  ThetombofAdam!Howtouchingitwas,hereinalandofstrangers,farawayfromhome,andfriends,andallwhocaredforme,thustodiscoverthegraveofabloodrelation。True,adistantone,butstillarelation。

  Theunerringinstinctofnaturethrilleditsrecognition。Thefountainofmyfilialaflfectionwasstirredtoitsprofoundestdepths,andIgavewaytotumultuousemotion。Ileaneduponapillarandburstintotears。

  Ideemitnoshametohaveweptoverthegraveofmypoordeadrelative。

  Lethimwhowouldsneeratmyemotionclosethisvolumehere,forhewillfindlittletohistasteinmyjourneyingsthroughHolyLand。Nobleoldman——hedidnotlivetoseeme——hedidnotlivetoseehischild。AndI——I——alas,Ididnotlivetoseehim。Weigheddownbysorrowanddisappointment,hediedbeforeIwasborn——sixthousandbriefsummersbeforeIwasborn。Butletustrytobearitwithfortitude。Letustrustthatheisbetteroffwhereheis。Letustakecomfortinthethoughtthathislossisoureternalgain。

  ThenextplacetheguidetookustointheholychurchwasanaltardedicatedtotheRomansoldierwhowasofthemilitaryguardthatattendedattheCrucifixiontokeeporder,andwho——whenthevailoftheTemplewasrentintheawfuldarknessthatfollowed;whentherockofGolgothawassplitasunderbyanearthquake;whentheartilleryofheaventhundered,andinthebalefulglareofthelightningstheshroudeddeadflittedaboutthestreetsofJerusalem——shookwithfearandsaid,\"SurelythiswastheSonofGod!\"Wherethisaltarstandsnow,thatRomansoldierstoodthen,infullviewofthecrucifiedSaviour——infullsightandhearingofallthemarvelsthatweretranspiringfarandwideaboutthecircumferenceoftheHillofCalvary。Andinthisself—samespotthepriestsoftheTemplebeheadedhimforthoseblasphemouswordshehadspoken。

  Inthisaltartheyusedtokeeponeofthemostcuriousrelicsthathumaneyeseverlookedupon——athingthathadpowertofascinatethebeholderinsomemysteriouswayandkeephimgazingforhourstogether。

  ItwasnothinglessthanthecopperplatePilateputupontheSaviour\'scross,anduponwhichhewrote,\"THISISTHEKINGOFTHEJEWS。\"IthinkSt。Helena,themotherofConstantine,foundthiswonderfulmementowhenshewashereinthethirdcentury。ShetraveledalloverPalestine,andwasalwaysfortunate。WheneverthegoodoldenthusiastfoundathingmentionedinherBible,OldorNew,shewouldgoandsearchforthatthing,andneverstopuntilshefoundit。IfitwasAdam,shewouldfindAdam;ifitwastheArk,shewouldfindtheArk;ifitwasGoliath,orJoshua,shewouldfindthem。ShefoundtheinscriptionherethatIwasspeakingof,Ithink。Shefounditinthisveryspot,closetowherethemartyredRomansoldierstood。ThatcopperplateisinoneofthechurchesinRome,now。

  Anyonecanseeitthere。Theinscriptionisverydistinct。

  WepassedalongafewstepsandsawthealtarbuiltovertheveryspotwherethegoodCatholicpriestssaythesoldiersdividedtheraimentoftheSaviour。

  Thenwewentdownintoacavernwhichcavilerssaywasonceacistern。

  Itisachapel,now,however——theChapelofSt。Helena。Itisfifty—onefeetlongbyforty—threewide。InitisamarblechairwhichHelenausedtositinwhileshesuperintendedherworkmenwhentheyweredigginganddelvingfortheTrueCross。InthisplaceisanaltardedicatedtoSt。

  Dimas,thepenitentthief。Anewbronzestatueishere——astatueofSt。

  Helena。ItremindedusofpoorMaximilian,solatelyshot。HepresentedittothischapelwhenhewasabouttoleaveforhisthroneinMexico。

  Fromthecisternwedescendedtwelvestepsintoalargeroughly—shapedgrotto,carvedwhollyoutofthelivingrock。HelenablasteditoutwhenshewassearchingforthetrueCross。Shehadalaboriouspieceofwork,here,butitwasrichlyrewarded。Outofthisplaceshegotthecrownofthorns,thenailsofthecross,thetrueCrossitself,andthecrossofthepenitentthief。Whenshethoughtshehadfoundeverythingandwasabouttostop,shewastoldinadreamtocontinueadaylonger。Itwasveryfortunate。Shedidso,andfoundthecrossoftheotherthief。

  ThewallsandroofofthisgrottostillweepbittertearsinmemoryoftheeventthattranspiredonCalvary,anddevoutpilgrimsgroanandsobwhenthesesadtearsfalluponthemfromthedrippingrock。Themonkscallthisapartmentthe\"ChapeloftheInventionoftheCross\"——anamewhichisunfortunate,becauseitleadstheignoranttoimaginethatatacitacknowledgmentisthusmadethatthetraditionthatHelenafoundthetrueCrosshereisafiction——aninvention。Itisahappinesstoknow,however,thatintelligentpeopledonotdoubtthestoryinanyofitsparticulars。

  PriestsofanyofthechapelsanddenominationsintheChurchoftheHolySepulchrecanvisitthissacredgrottotoweepandprayandworshipthegentleRedeemer。Twodifferentcongregationsarenotallowedtoenteratthesametime,however,becausetheyalwaysfight。

  StillmarchingthroughthevenerableChurchoftheHolySepulchre,amongchantingpriestsincoarselongrobesandsandals;pilgrimsofallcolorsandmanynationalities,inallsortsofstrangecostumes;underduskyarchesandbydingypiersandcolumns;throughasombrecathedralgloomfreightedwithsmokeandincense,andfaintlystarredwithscoresofcandlesthatappearedsuddenlyandassuddenlydisappeared,ordriftedmysteriouslyhitherandthitheraboutthedistantaisleslikeghostlyjack—o\'—lanterns——wecameatlasttoasmallchapelwhichiscalledthe\"ChapeloftheMocking。\"Underthealtarwasafragmentofamarblecolumn;thiswastheseatChristsatonwhenhewasreviled,andmockinglymadeKing,crownedwithacrownofthornsandsceptredwithareed。Itwasherethattheyblindfoldedhimandstruckhim,andsaidinderision,\"Prophesywhoitisthatsmotethee。\"Thetraditionthatthisistheidenticalspotofthemockingisaveryancientone。TheguidesaidthatSaewulfwasthefirsttomentionit。IdonotknowSaewulf,butstill,Icannotwellrefusetoreceivehisevidence——noneofuscan。

  TheyshoweduswherethegreatGodfreyandhisbrotherBaldwin,thefirstChristianKingsofJerusalem,oncelayburiedbythatsacredsepulchretheyhadfoughtsolongandsovaliantlytowrestfromthehandsoftheinfidel。Butthenichesthathadcontainedtheashesoftheserenownedcrusaderswereempty。Eventhecoveringsoftheirtombsweregone——destroyedbydevoutmembersoftheGreekChurch,becauseGodfreyandBaldwinwereLatinprinces,andhadbeenrearedinaChristianfaithwhosecreeddifferedinsomeunimportantrespectsfromtheirs。

  Wepassedon,andhaltedbeforethetombofMelchisedek!YouwillrememberMelchisedek,nodoubt;hewastheKingwhocameoutandleviedatributeonAbrahamthetimethathepursuedLot\'scaptorstoDan,andtookalltheirpropertyfromthem。Thatwasaboutfourthousandyearsago,andMelchisedekdiedshortlyafterward。However,histombisinagoodstateofpreservation。

  WhenoneenterstheChurchoftheHolySepulchre,theSepulchreitselfisthefirstthinghedesirestosee,andreallyisalmostthefirstthinghedoessee。ThenextthinghehasastrongyearningtoseeisthespotwheretheSaviourwascrucified。Butthistheyexhibitlast。Itisthecrowninggloryoftheplace。OneisgraveandthoughtfulwhenhestandsinthelittleTomboftheSaviour——hecouldnotwellbeotherwiseinsuchaplace——buthehasnottheslightestpossiblebeliefthatevertheLordlaythere,andsotheinteresthefeelsinthespotisvery,verygreatlymarredbythatreflection。HelooksattheplacewhereMarystood,inanotherpartofthechurch,andwhereJohnstood,andMaryMagdalen;

  wherethemobderidedtheLord;wheretheangelsat;wherethecrownofthornswasfound,andthetrueCross;wheretherisenSaviourappeared——helooksatalltheseplaceswithinterest,butwiththesameconvictionhefeltinthecaseoftheSepulchre,thatthereisnothinggenuineaboutthem,andthattheyareimaginaryholyplacescreatedbythemonks。ButtheplaceoftheCrucifixionaffectshimdifferently。HefullybelievesthatheislookingupontheveryspotwheretheSaviorgaveuphislife。

  HeremembersthatChristwasverycelebrated,longbeforehecametoJerusalem;

  heknowsthathisfamewassogreatthatcrowdsfollowedhimallthetime;

  heisawarethathisentryintothecityproducedastirringsensation,andthathisreceptionwasakindofovation;hecannotoverlookthefactthatwhenhewascrucifiedtherewereverymanyinJerusalemwhobelievedthathewasthetrueSonofGod。Topubliclyexecutesuchapersonagewassufficientinitselftomakethelocalityoftheexecutionamemorableplaceforages;addedtothis,thestorm,thedarkness,theearthquake,therendingofthevailoftheTemple,andtheuntimelywakingofthedead,wereeventscalculatedtofixtheexecutionandthesceneofitinthememoryofeventhemostthoughtlesswitness。Fatherswouldtelltheirsonsaboutthestrangeaffair,andpointoutthespot;thesonswouldtransmitthestorytotheirchildren,andthusaperiodofthreehundredyearswouldeasilybespanned*——atwhichtimeHelenacameandbuiltachurchuponCalvarytocommemoratethedeathandburialoftheLordandpreservethesacredplaceinthememoriesofmen;sincethattimetherehasalwaysbeenachurchthere。ItisnotpossiblethattherecanbeanymistakeaboutthelocalityoftheCrucifixion。NothalfadozenpersonsknewwheretheyburiedtheSaviour,perhaps,andaburialisnotastartlingevent,anyhow;therefore,wecanbepardonedforunbeliefintheSepulchre,butnotintheplaceoftheCrucifixion。FivehundredyearshencetherewillbenovestigeofBunkerHillMonumentleft,butAmericawillstillknowwherethebattlewasfoughtandwhereWarrenfell。ThecrucifixionofChristwastoonotableaneventinJerusalem,andtheHillofCalvarymadetoocelebratedbyit,tobeforgottenintheshortspaceofthreehundredyears。

  Iclimbedthestairwayinthechurchwhichbringsonetothetopofthesmallinclosedpinnacleofrock,andlookedupontheplacewherethetruecrossoncestood,withafarmoreabsorbinginterestthanIhadeverfeltinanythingearthlybefore。Icouldnotbelievethatthethreeholesinthetopoftherockweretheactualonesthecrossesstoodin,butIfeltsatisfiedthatthosecrosseshadstoodsoneartheplacenowoccupiedbythem,thatthefewfeetofpossibledifferencewereamatterofnoconsequence。*ThethoughtisMr。Prime\'s,notmine,andisfullofgoodsense。Iborroweditfromhis\"TentLife。\"——M。T。WhenonestandswheretheSaviourwascrucified,hefindsitallhecandotokeepitstrictlybeforehismindthatChristwasnotcrucifiedinaCatholicChurch。Hemustremindhimselfeverynowandthenthatthegreateventtranspiredintheopenair,andnotinagloomy,candle—lightedcellinalittlecornerofavastchurch,up—stairs——asmallcellallbejeweledandbespangledwithflashyornamentation,inexecrabletaste。

  Underamarblealtarlikeatable,isacircularholeinthemarblefloor,correspondingwiththeonejustunderitinwhichthetrueCrossstood。Thefirstthingeveryonedoesistokneeldownandtakeacandleandexaminethishole。Hedoesthisstrangeprospectingwithanamountofgravitythatcanneverbeestimatedorappreciatedbyamanwhohasnotseentheoperation。ThenheholdshiscandlebeforearichlyengravedpictureoftheSaviour,doneonamessyslabofgold,andwonderfullyrayedandstarredwithdiamonds,whichhangsabovetheholewithinthealtar,andhissolemnitychangestolivelyadmiration。HerisesandfacesthefinelywroughtfiguresoftheSaviourandthemalefactorsupliftedupontheircrossesbehindthealtar,andbrightwithametalliclustreofmanycolors。HeturnsnexttothefiguresclosetothemoftheVirginandMaryMagdalen;nexttotheriftinthelivingrockmadebytheearthquakeatthetimeoftheCrucifixion,andanextensionofwhichhehadseenbeforeinthewallofoneofthegrottoesbelow;helooksnextattheshow—casewithafigureoftheVirgininit,andisamazedattheprincelyfortuneinpreciousgemsandjewelrythathangssothicklyabouttheformastohideitlikeagarmentalmost。AllabouttheapartmentthegaudytrappingsoftheGreekChurchoffendtheeyeandkeepthemindontheracktorememberthatthisisthePlaceoftheCruci—fixion——Golgotha——theMountofCalvary。Andthelastthinghelooksatisthatwhichwasalsothefirst——theplacewherethetrueCrossstood。Thatwillchainhimtothespotandcompelhimtolookoncemore,andonceagain,afterhehassatisfiedallcuriosityandlostallinterestconcerningtheothermatterspertainingtothelocality。

  AndsoIclosemychapterontheChurchoftheHolySepulchre——themostsacredlocalityonearthtomillionsandmillionsofmen,andwomen,andchildren,thenobleandthehumble,bondandfree。Initshistoryfromthefirst,andinitstremendousassociations,itisthemostillustriousedificeinChristendom。Withallitsclap—trapside—showsandunseemlyimposturesofeverykind,itisstillgrand,reverend,venerable——foragoddiedthere;forfifteenhundredyearsitsshrineshavebeenwetwiththetearsofpilgrimsfromtheearth\'sremotestconfines;formorethantwohundred,themostgallantknightsthateverwieldedswordwastedtheirlivesawayinastruggletoseizeitandholditsacredfrominfidelpollution。

  Eveninourowndayawar,thatcostmillionsoftreasureandriversofblood,wasfoughtbecausetworivalnationsclaimedthesolerighttoputanewdomeuponit。HistoryisfullofthisoldChurchoftheHolySepulchre——fullofbloodthatwasshedbecauseoftherespectandthevenerationinwhichmenheldthelastresting—placeofthemeekandlowly,themildandgentle,PrinceofPeace!

  Chapter54

  Wewerestandinginanarrowstreet,bytheTowerofAntonio。\"Onthesestonesthatarecrumblingaway,\"theguidesaid,\"theSavioursatandrestedbeforetakingupthecross。ThisisthebeginningoftheSorrowfulWay,ortheWayofGrief。\"Thepartytooknoteofthesacredspot,andmovedon。Wepassedunderthe\"EcceHomoArch,\"andsawtheverywindowfromwhichPilate\'swifewarnedherhusbandtohavenothingtodowiththepersecutionoftheJustMan。Thiswindowisinanexcellentstateofpreservation,consideringitsgreatage。TheyshoweduswhereJesusrestedthesecondtime,andwherethemobrefusedtogivehimup,andsaid,\"Lethisbloodbeuponourheads,anduponourchildren\'schildrenforever。\"TheFrenchCatholicsarebuildingachurchonthisspot,andwiththeirusualvenerationforhistoricalrelics,areincorporatingintothenewsuchscrapsofancientwallsastheyhavefoundthere。Furtheron,wesawthespotwherethefaintingSaviourfellundertheweightofhiscross。Agreatgranitecolumnofsomeancienttemplelaythereatthetime,andtheheavycrossstruckitsuchablowthatitbrokeintwointhemiddle。Suchwastheguide\'sstorywhenhehaltedusbeforethebrokencolumn。

  Wecrossedastreet,andcamepresentlytotheformerresidenceofSt。

  Veronica。WhentheSaviourpassedthere,shecameout,fullofwomanlycompassion,andspokepityingwordstohim,undauntedbythehootingsandthethreateningsofthemob,andwipedtheperspirationfromhisfacewithherhandkerchief。WehadheardsomuchofSt。Veronica,andseenherpicturebysomanymasters,thatitwaslikemeetinganoldfriendunexpectedlytocomeuponherancienthomeinJerusalem。Thestrangestthingabouttheincidentthathasmadehernamesofamous,is,thatwhenshewipedtheperspirationaway,theprintoftheSaviour\'sfaceremaineduponthehandkerchief,aperfectportrait,andsoremainsuntothisday。Weknewthis,becausewesawthishandkerchiefinacathedralinParis,inanotherinSpain,andintwoothersinItaly。IntheMilancathedralitcostsfivefrancstoseeit,andatSt。Peter\'s,atRome,itisalmostimpossibletoseeitatanyprice。NotraditionissoamplyverifiedasthisofSt。Veronicaandherhandkerchief。

  Atthenextcornerwesawadeepindentioninthehardstonemasonryofthecornerofahouse,butmighthavegoneheedlesslybyitbutthattheguidesaiditwasmadebytheelbowoftheSaviour,whostumbledhereandfell。Presentlywecametojustsuchanotherindentioninastonewall。

  TheguidesaidtheSaviourfellhere,also,andmadethisdepressionwithhiselbow。

  TherewereotherplaceswheretheLordfell,andotherswhereherested;

  butoneofthemostcuriouslandmarksofancienthistorywefoundonthismorningwalkthroughthecrookedlanesthatleadtowardCalvary,wasacertainstonebuiltintoahouse——astonethatwassoseamedandscarredthatitboreasortofgrotesqueresemblancetothehumanface。Theprojectionsthatansweredforcheekswerewornsmoothbythepassionatekissesofgenerationsofpilgrimsfromdistantlands。Weasked\"Why?\"Theguidesaiditwasbecausethiswasoneof\"theverystonesofJerusalem\"thatChristmentionedwhenhewasreprovedforpermittingthepeopletocry\"Hosannah!\"whenhemadehismemorableentryintothecityuponanass。Oneofthepilgrimssaid,\"Butthereisnoevidencethatthestonesdidcryout——ChristsaidthatifthepeoplestoppedfromshoutingHosannah,theverystoneswoulddoit。\"Theguidewasperfectlyserene。Hesaid,calmly,\"Thisisoneofthestonesthatwouldhavecriedout。\"Itwasoflittleusetotrytoshakethisfellow\'ssimplefaith——itwaseasytoseethat。

  Andsowecameatlasttoanotherwonder,ofdeepandabidinginterest——theveritablehousewheretheunhappywretchoncelivedwhohasbeencelebratedinsongandstoryformorethaneighteenhundredyearsastheWanderingJew。OnthememorabledayoftheCrucifixionhestoodinthisolddoorwaywithhisarmsakimbo,lookingoutuponthestrugglingmobthatwasapproaching,andwhenthewearySaviourwouldhavesatdownandrestedhimamoment,pushedhimrudelyawayandsaid,\"Moveon!\"TheLordsaid,\"Moveon,thou,likewise,\"andthecommandhasneverbeenrevokedfromthatdaytothis。Allmenknowhowthatthemiscreantuponwhoseheadthatjustcursefellhasroamedupanddownthewideworld,foragesandages,seekingrestandneverfindingit——courtingdeathbutalwaysinvain——longingtostop,incity,inwilderness,indesertsolitudes,yethearingalwaysthatrelentlesswarningtomarch——marchon!Theysay——dothesehoarytraditions——thatwhenTitussackedJerusalemandslaughteredelevenhundredthousandJewsinherstreetsandby­ways,theWanderingJewwasseenalwaysinthethickestofthefight,andthatwhenbattle­axesgleamedintheair,hebowedhisheadbeneaththem;whenswordsflashedtheirdeadlylightnings,hesprangintheirway;hebaredhisbreasttowhizzingjavelins,tohissingarrows,toanyandtoeveryweaponthatpromiseddeathandforgetfulness,andrest。Butitwasuseless——hewalkedforthoutofthecarnagewithoutawound。AnditissaidthatfivehundredyearsafterwardhefollowedMahometwhenhecarrieddestructiontothecitiesofArabia,andthenturnedagainsthim,hopinginthiswaytowinthedeathofatraitor。Hiscalculationswerewrongagain。Noquarterwasgiventoanylivingcreaturebutone,andthatwastheonlyoneofallthehostthatdidnotwantit。Hesoughtdeathfivehundredyearslater,inthewarsoftheCrusades,andofferedhimselftofamineandpestilenceatAscalon。

  Heescapedagain——hecouldnotdie。Theserepeatedannoyancescouldhaveatlastbutoneeffect——theyshookhisconfidence。SincethentheWanderingJewhascarriedonakindofdesultorytoyingwiththemostpromisingoftheaidsandimplementsofdestruction,butwithsmallhope,asageneralthing。Hehasspeculatedsomeincholeraandrailroads,andhastakenalmostalivelyinterestininfernalmachinesandpatentmedicines。Heisold,now,andgrave,asbecomesanagelikehis;heindulgesinnolightamusementssavethathegoessometimestoexecutions,andisfondoffunerals。

  Thereisonethinghecannotavoid;gowherehewillabouttheworld,hemustneverfailtoreportinJerusalemeveryfiftiethyear。Onlyayearortwoagohewashereforthethirty­seventhtimesinceJesuswascrucifiedonCalvary。Theysaythatmanyoldpeople,whoareherenow,sawhimthen,andhadseenhimbefore。Helooksalwaysthesame——old,andwithered,andhollow­eyed,andlistless,savethatthereisabouthimsomethingwhichseemstosuggestthatheislookingforsomeone,expectingsomeone——thefriendsofhisyouth,perhaps。Butthemostofthemaredead,now。Healwayspokesabouttheoldstreetslookinglonesome,makinghismarkonawallhereandthere,andeyeingtheoldestbuildingswithasortoffriendlyhalfinterest;andheshedsafewtearsatthethresholdofhisancientdwelling,andbitter,bittertearstheyare。Thenhecollectshisrentandleavesagain。HehasbeenseenstandingneartheChurchoftheHolySepulchreonmanyastarlightnight,forhehascherishedanideaformanycenturiesthatifhecouldonlyenterthere,hecouldrest。Butwhenheapproaches,thedoorsslamtowithacrash,theearthtrembles,andallthelightsinJerusalemburnaghastlyblue!Hedoesthiseveryfiftyyears,justthesame。Itishopeless,butthenitishardtobreakhabitsonehasbeeneighteenhundredyearsaccustomedto。Theoldtouristisfarawayonhiswanderings,now。Howhemustsmiletoseeapackofblockheadslikeus,gallopingabouttheworld,andlookingwise,andimaginingwearefindingoutagooddealaboutit!Hemusthaveaconsumingcontemptfortheignorant,complacentassesthatgoskurryingabouttheworldintheserailroadingdaysandcallittraveling。

  WhentheguidepointedoutwheretheWanderingJewhadlefthisfamiliarmarkuponawall,Iwasfilledwithastonishment。Itread:\"ST。——1860

  ——X。\"

  AllIhaverevealedabouttheWanderingJewcanbeamplyprovenbyreferencetoourguide。

  ThemightyMosqueofOmar,andthepavedcourtaroundit,occupyafourthpartofJerusalem。TheyareuponMountMoriah,whereKingSolomon\'sTemplestood。ThisMosqueistheholiestplacetheMohammedanknows,outsideofMecca。Uptowithinayearortwopast,noChristiancouldgainadmissiontoitoritscourtforloveormoney。Buttheprohibitionhasbeenremoved,andweenteredfreelyforbucksheesh。

  IneednotspeakofthewonderfulbeautyandtheexquisitegraceandsymmetrythathavemadethisMosquesocelebrated——becauseIdidnotseethem。Onecannotseesuchthingsataninstantglance——onefrequentlyonlyfindsouthowreallybeautifulareallybeautifulwomanisafterconsiderableacquaintancewithher;andtheruleappliestoNiagaraFalls,tomajesticmountainsandtomosques——especiallytomosques。

  ThegreatfeatureoftheMosqueofOmaristheprodigiousrockinthecentreofitsrotunda。ItwasuponthisrockthatAbrahamcamesonearofferinguphissonIsaac——this,atleast,isauthentic­­itisverymuchmoretobereliedonthanmostofthetraditions,atanyrate。

  Onthisrock,also,theangelstoodandthreatenedJerusalem,andDavidpersuadedhimtosparethecity。Mahometwaswellacquaintedwiththisstone。Fromitheascendedtoheaven。Thestonetriedtofollowhim,andiftheangelGabrielhadnothappenedbythemerestgoodlucktobetheretoseizeit,itwouldhavedoneit。VeryfewpeoplehaveagriplikeGabriel——theprintsofhismonstrousfingers,twoinchesdeep,aretobeseeninthatrockto­day。

  Thisrock,largeasitis,issuspendedintheair。Itdoesnottouchanythingatall。Theguidesaidso。Thisisverywonderful。IntheplaceonitwhereMahometstood,helefthisfoot­printsinthesolidstone。

  Ishouldjudgethatheworeabouteighteens。ButwhatIwasgoingtosay,whenIspokeoftherockbeingsuspended,was,thatinthefloorofthecavernunderittheyshowedusaslabwhichtheysaidcoveredaholewhichwasathingofextraordinaryinteresttoallMohammedans,becausethatholeleadsdowntoperdition,andeverysoulthatistransferredfromthencetoHeavenmustpassupthroughthisorifice。Mahometstandsthereandliftsthemoutbythehair。AllMohammedansshavetheirheads,buttheyarecarefultoleavealockofhairfortheProphettotakeholdof。OurguideobservedthatagoodMohammedanwouldconsiderhimselfdoomedtostaywiththedamnedforeverifheweretolosehisscalp­lockanddiebeforeitgrewagain。

  ThemostofthemthatIhaveseenoughttostaywiththedamned,anyhow,withoutreferencetohowtheywerebarbered。

  Forseveralagesnowomanhasbeenallowedtoenterthecavernwherethatimportantholeis。Thereasonisthatoneofthesexwasoncecaughtthereblabbingeverythingsheknewaboutwhatwasgoingonaboveground,totherapscallionsintheinfernalregionsdownbelow。Shecarriedhergossipingtosuchanextremethatnothingcouldbekeptprivate——nothingcouldbedoneorsaidonearthbuteverybodyinperditionknewallaboutitbeforethesunwentdown。Itwasabouttimetosuppressthiswoman\'stelegraph,anditwaspromptlydone。Herbreathsubsidedaboutthesametime。

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