PresentlyawildArabinchargeofacameltrainrecognizedanoldfriendinFerguson，andtheyranandfelluponeachother\'snecksandkissedeachother\'sgrimy，beardedfacesuponbothcheeks。ItexplainedinstantlyasomethingwhichhadalwaysseemedtomeonlyafarfetchedOrientalfigureofspeech。IrefertothecircumstanceofChrist\'srebukingaPharisee，orsomesuchcharacter，andremindinghimthatfromhimhehadreceivedno\"kissofwelcome。\"Itdidnotseemreasonabletomethatmenshouldkisseachother，butIamaware，now，thattheydid。Therewasreasoninit，too。Thecustomwasnaturalandproper;becausepeoplemustkiss，andamanwouldnotbelikelytokissoneofthewomenofthiscountryofhisownfreewillandaccord。Onemusttravel，tolearn。Everyday，now，oldScripturalphrasesthatneverpossessedanysignificanceformebefore，taketothemselvesameaning。
Wejourneyedaroundthebaseofthemountain——\"LittleHermon，\"——
pasttheoldCrusaders\'castleofElFuleh，andarrivedatShunem。ThiswasanotherMagdala，toafraction，frescoesandall。Here，traditionsays，theprophetSamuelwasborn，andheretheShunamitewomanbuiltalittlehouseuponthecitywallfortheaccommodationoftheprophetElisha。Elishaaskedherwhatsheexpectedinreturn。Itwasaperfectlynaturalquestion，forthesepeopleareandwereinthehabitofprofferingfavorsandservicesandthenexpectingandbeggingforpay。Elishaknewthemwell。Hecouldnotcomprehendthatanybodyshouldbuildforhimthathumblelittlechamberforthemeresakeofoldfriendship，andwithnoselfishmotivewhatever。
Itusedtoseemaveryimpolite，nottosayarude，question，forElishatoaskthewoman，butitdoesnotseemsotomenow。ThewomansaidsheexpectednothingThenforhergoodnessandherunselfishness，herejoicedherheartwiththenewsthatsheshouldbearason。Itwasahighreward——butshewouldnothavethankedhimforadaughter——daughtershavealwaysbeenunpopularhere。Thesonwasborn，grew，waxedstrong，died。
ElisharestoredhimtolifeinShunem。
Wefoundhereagroveoflemontrees——cool，shady，hungwithfruit。
Oneisapttooverestimatebeautywhenitisrare，buttomethisgroveseemedverybeautifull。Itwasbeautiful。Idonotoverestimateit。ImustalwaysrememberShunemgratefully，asaplacewhichgavetousthisleafyshelterafterourlong，hotride。Welunched，rested，chatted，smokedourpipesanhour，andthenmountedandmovedon。
AswetrottedacrossthePlainofJezreel，wemethalfadozenDiggerIndians（Bedouins）withverylongspearsintheirhands，cavortingaroundonoldcrowbaithorses，andspearingimaginaryenemies;whooping，andflutteringtheirragsinthewind，andcarryingonineveryrespectlikeapackofhopelesslunatics。Atlast，herewerethe\"wild，freesonsofthedesert，speedingovertheplainlikethewind，ontheirbeautifulArabianmares\"
wehadreadsomuchaboutandlongedsomuchtosee！Herewerethe\"picturesquecostumes\"！Thiswasthe\"gallantspectacle\"！Tatterdemalionvagrants——
cheapbraggadocio——\"Arabianmares\"spinedandneckedliketheichthyosaurusinthemuseum，andhumpedandcorneredlikeadromedary！Toglanceatthegenuinesonofthedesertistotaketheromanceoutofhimforever——
tobeholdhissteedistolongincharitytostriphisharnessoffandlethimfalltopieces。
Presentlywecametoaruinousoldtownonahill，thesamebeingtheancientJezreel。
Ahab，KingofSamaria，（thiswasaveryvastkingdom，forthosedays，andwasverynearlyhalfaslargeasRhodeIsland）dweltinthecityofJezreel，whichwashiscapital。NearhimlivedamanbythenameofNaboth，whohadavineyard。TheKingaskedhimforit，andwhenhewouldnotgiveit，offeredtobuyit。ButNabothrefusedtosellit。Inthosedaysitwasconsideredasortofcrimetopartwithone\'sinheritanceatanyprice——andevenifamandidpartwithit，itrevertedtohimselforhisheirsagainatthenextjubileeyear。SothisspoiledchildofaKingwentandlaydownonthebedwithhisfacetothewall，andgrievedsorely。TheQueen，anotoriouscharacterinthosedays，andwhosenameisaby—wordandareproacheveninthese，cameinandaskedhimwhereforehesorrowed，andhetoldher。Jezebelsaidshecouldsecurethevineyard;andshewentforthandforgedletterstothenoblesandwisemen，intheKing\'sname，andorderedthemtoproclaimafastandsetNabothonhighbeforethepeople，andsuborntwowit—nessestoswearthathehadblasphemed。Theydidit，andthepeoplestonedtheaccusedbythecitywall，andhedied。ThenJezebelcameandtoldtheKing，andsaid，Behold，Nabothisnomore——riseupandseizethevineyard。SoAhabseizedthevineyard，andwentintoittopossessit。ButtheProphetElijahcametohimthereandreadhisfatetohim，andthefateofJezebel;andsaidthatintheplacewheredogslickedthebloodofNaboth，dogsshouldalsolickhisblood——andhesaid，likewise，thedogsshouldeatJezebelbythewallofJezreel。Inthecourseoftime，theKingwaskilledinbattle，andwhenhischariotwheelswerewashedinthepoolofSamaria，thedogslickedtheblood。Inafteryears，Jehu，whowasKingofIsrael，marcheddownagainstJezreel，byorderofoneoftheProphets，andadministeredoneofthoseconvincingrebukessocommonamongthepeopleofthosedays:hekilledmanykingsandtheirsubjects，andashecamealonghesaw。Jezebei，paintedandfinelydressed，lookingoutofawindow，andorderedthatshebethrowndowntohim。Aservantdidit，andJehu\'shorsetrampledherunderfoot。ThenJehuwentinandsatdowntodinner;andpresentlyhesaid，Goandburythiscursedwoman，forsheisaKing\'sdaughter。Thespiritofcharitycameuponhimtoolate，however，fortheprophecyhadalreadybeenfulfilled——thedogshadeatenher，andthey\"foundnomoreofherthantheskull，andthefeet，andthepalmsofherhands。\"
Ahab，thelateKing，hadleftahelplessfamilybehindhim，andJehukilledseventyoftheorphansons。Thenhekilledalltherelatives，andteachers，andservantsandfriendsofthefamily，andrestedfromhislabors，untilhewascomeneartoSamaria，wherehemetforty—twopersonsandaskedthemwhotheywere;theysaidtheywerebrothersoftheKingofJudah。
Hekilledthem。WhenhegottoSamaria，hesaidhewouldshowhiszealfortheLord;sohegatheredallthepriestsandpeopletogetherthatworshipedBaal，pretendingthathewasgoingtoadoptthatworshipandofferupagreatsacrifice;andwhentheywereallshutupwheretheycouldnotdefendthemselves，hecausedeverypersonofthemtobekilled。ThenJehu，thegoodmissionary，restedfromhislaborsoncemore。
Wewentbacktothevalley，androdetotheFountainofAinJelud。TheycallittheFountainofJezreel，usually。Itisapondaboutonehundredfeetsquareandfourfeetdeep，withastreamofwatertricklingintoitfromunderanoverhangingledgeofrocks。Itisinthemidstofagreatsolitude。HereGideonpitchedhiscampintheoldtimes;behindShunemlaythe\"Midianites，theAmalekites，andtheChildrenoftheEast，\"whowere\"asgrasshoppersformultitude;boththeyandtheircamelswerewithoutnumber，asthesandbythesea—sideformultitude。\"Whichmeansthattherewereonehundredandthirty—fivethousandmen，andthattheyhadtransportationserviceaccordingly。
Gideon，withonlythreehundredmen，surprisedtheminthenight，andstoodbyandlookedonwhiletheybutcheredeachotheruntilahundredandtwentythousandlaydeadonthefield。
WecampedatJeninbeforenight，andgotupandstartedagainatoneo\'clockinthemorning。SomewheretowardsdaylightwepassedthelocalitywherethebestauthenticatedtraditionlocatesthepitintowhichJoseph\'sbrethrenthrewhim，andaboutnoon，afterpassingoverasuccessionofmountaintops，cladwithgrovesoffigandolivetrees，withtheMediterraneaninsightsomefortymilesaway，andgoingbymanyancientBiblicalcitieswhoseinhabitantsgloweredsavagelyuponourChristianprocession，andwereseeminglyinclinedtopracticeonitwithstones，wecametothesingularlyterracedandunlovelyhillsthatbetrayedthatwewereoutofGalileeandintoSamariaatlast。
WeclimbedahighhilltovisitthecityofSamaria，wherethewomanmayhavehailedfromwhoconversedwithChristatJacob\'sWell，andfromwhence，nodoubt，camealsothecel—ebratedGoodSamaritan。HerodtheGreatissaidtohavemadeamagnificentcityofthisplace，andagreatnumberofcoarse1imestonecolumns，twentyfeethighandtwofeetthrough，thatarealmostguiltlessofarchitecturalgraceofshapeandornament，arepointedoutbymanyauthorsasevidenceofthefact。TheywouldnothavebeenconsideredhandsomeinancientGreece，however。
Theinhabitantsofthiscampareparticularlyvicious，andstonedtwopartiesofourpilgrimsadayortwoagowhobroughtaboutthedifficultybyshowingtheirrevolverswhentheydidnotintendtousethem——athingwhichisdeemedbadjudgmentintheFarWest，andoughtcertainlytobesoconsideredanywhere。InthenewTerritories，whenamanputshishandonaweapon，heknowsthathemustuseit;hemustuseitinstantlyorexpecttobeshotdownwherehestands。ThosepilgrimshadbeenreadingGrimes。
TherewasnothingforustodoinSamariabutbuyhandfulsofoldRomancoinsatafrancadozen，andlookatadilapidatedchurchoftheCrusadersandavaultinitwhichoncecontainedthebodyofJohntheBaptist。ThisrelicwaslongagocarriedawaytoGenoa。
Samariastoodadisastroussiege，once，inthedaysofElisha，atthehandsoftheKingofSyria。Provisionsreachedsuchafigurethat\"anass\'
headwassoldforeightypiecesofsilverandthefourthpartofacabofdove\'sdungforfivepiecesofsilver。\"
Anincidentrecordedofthatheavytimewillgiveoneaverygoodideaofthedistressthatprevailedwithinthesecrumblingwalls。AstheKingwaswalkinguponthebattlementsoneday，\"awomancriedout，saying，Help，mylord，OKing！AndtheKingsaid，Whataileththee？andsheanswered，Thiswomansaiduntome，Givethyson，thatwemayeathimto—day，andwewilleatmysonto—morrow。Soweboiledmyson，anddideathim;andIsaiduntoheronthenextday，Givethysonthatwemayeathim;andshehathhidherson。\"
TheprophetElishadeclaredthatwithinfourandtwentyhoursthepricesoffoodshouldgodowntonothing，almost，anditwasso。TheSyrianarmybrokecampandfled，forsomecauseorother，thefaminewasrelievedfromwithout，andmanyashoddyspeculatorindove\'sdungandass\'smeatwasruined。
Weweregladtoleavethishotanddustyoldvillageandhurryon。Attwoo\'clockwestoppedtolunchandrestatancientShechem，betweenthehistoricMountsofGerizimandEbal，whereintheoldtimesthebooksofthelaw，thecursesandtheblessings，werereadfromtheheightstotheJewishmultitudesbelow。
Chapter52
ThenarrowcanoninwhichNablous，orShechem，issituated，isunderhighcultivation，andthesoilisexceedinglyblackandfertile。Itiswellwatered，anditsaffluentvegetationgainseffectbycontrastwiththebarrenhillsthattoweroneitherside。OneofthesehillsistheancientMountofBlessingsandtheothertheMountofCursesandwisemenwhoseekforfulfillmentsofprophecythinktheyfindhereawonderofthiskind——towit，thattheMountofBlessingsisstrangelyfertileanditsmateasstrangelyunproductive。Wecouldnotseethattherewasreallymuchdifferencebetweentheminthisrespect，however。
ShechemisdistinguishedasoneoftheresidencesofthepatriarchJacob，andastheseatofthosetribesthatcutthemselvesloosefromtheirbrethrenofIsraelandpropagateddoctrinesnotinconformitywiththoseoftheoriginalJewishcreed。ForthousandsofyearsthisclanhavedweltinShechemunderstricttabuandhavinglittlecommerceorfellowshipwiththeirfellowmenofanyreligionornationality。Forgenerationstheyhavenotnumberedmorethanoneortwohundred，buttheystilladheretotheirancientfaithandmaintaintheirancientritesandceremonies。Talkoffamilyandolddescent！Princesandnoblespridethemselvesuponlineagestheycantracebacksomehundredsofyears。WhatisthistrifletothishandfulofoldfirstfamiliesofShechemwhocannametheirfathersstraightbackwithoutaflawforthousands——straightbacktoaperiodsoremotethatmenrearedinacountrywherethedaysoftwohundredyearsagoarecalled\"ancient\"timesgrowdazedandbewilderedwhentheytrytocomprehendit！Hereisrespectabilityforyou——hereis\"family\"——hereishighdescentworthtalkingabout。Thissad，proudremnantofaoncemightycommunitystillholdthemselvesalooffromalltheworld;theystillliveastheirfatherslived，laborastheirfatherslabored，thinkastheydid，feelastheydid，worshipinthesameplace，insightofthesamelandmarks，andinthesamequaint，patriarchalwaytheirancestorsdidmorethanthirtycenturiesago。Ifoundmyselfgazingatanystragglingscionofthisstrangeracewitharivetedfascination，justasonewouldstareatalivingmastodon，oramegatheriumthathadmovedinthegreydawnofcreationandseenthewondersofthatmysteriousworldthatwasbeforetheflood。
CarefullypreservedamongthesacredarchivesofthiscuriouscommunityisaMSS。copyoftheancientJewishlaw，whichissaidtobetheoldestdocumentonearth。Itiswrittenonvellum，andissomefourorfivethousandyearsold。Nothingbutbucksheeshcanpurchaseasight。Itsfameissomewhatdimmedintheselatterdays，becauseofthedoubtssomanyauthorsofPalestinetravelshavefeltthemselvesprivilegedtocastuponit。SpeakingofthisMSS。remindsmethatIprocuredfromthehighpriestofthisancientSamaritancommunity，atgreatexpense，asecretdocumentofstillhigherantiquityandfarmoreextraordinaryinterest，whichIproposetopublishassoonasIhavefinishedtranslatingit。
JoshuagavehisdyinginjunctiontothechildrenofIsraelatShechem，andburiedavaluabletreasuresecretlyunderanoaktreethereaboutthesametime。ThesuperstitiousSamaritanshavealwaysbeenafraidtohuntforit。Theybelieveitisguardedbyfiercespiritsinvisibletomen。
AboutamileandahalffromShechemwehaltedatthebaseofMountEbalbeforealittlesquarearea，inclosedbyahighstonewall，neatlywhitewashed。AcrossoneendofthisinclosureisatombbuiltafterthemanneroftheMoslems。ItisthetombofJoseph。Notruthisbetterauthenticatedthanthis。
WhenJosephwasdyingheprophesiedthatexodusoftheIsraelitesfromEgyptwhichoccurredfourhundredyearsafterwards。AtthesametimeheexactedofhispeopleanoaththatwhentheyjourneyedtothelandofCanaantheywouldbearhisboneswiththemandburythemintheancientinheritanceofhisfathers。Theoathwaskept。\"AndthebonesofJoseph，whichthechildrenofIsraelbroughtupoutofEgypt，buriedtheyinShechem，inaparcelofgroundwhichJacobboughtofthesonsofHamorthefatherofShechemforahundredpiecesofsilver。\"FewtombsonearthcommandthevenerationofsomanyracesandmenofdiverscreedsasthisofJoseph。\"SamaritanandJew，MoslemandChristianalike，revereit，andhonoritwiththeirvisits。ThetombofJoseph，thedutifulson，theaffectionate，forgivingbrother，thevirtuousman，thewisePrinceandruler。Egyptfelthisinfluence——theworldknowshishistory。\"
Inthissame\"parcelofground\"whichJacobboughtofthesonsofHamorforahundredpiecesofsilver，isJacob\'scelebratedwell。Itiscutinthesolidrock，andisninefeetsquareandninetyfeetdeep。Thenameofthisunpretendingholeintheground，whichonemightpassbyandtakenonoticeof，isasfamiliarashouseholdwordstoeventhechildrenandthepeasantsofmanyafaroffcountry。ItismorefamousthantheParthenon;itisolderthanthePyramids。
ItwasbythiswellthatJesussatandtalkedwithawomanofthatstrange，antiquatedSamaritancommunityIhavebeenspeakingof，andtoldherofthemysteriouswateroflife。AsdescendantsofoldEnglishnoblesstillcherishinthetraditionsoftheirhouseshowthatthiskingorthatkingtarriedadaywithsomefavoredancestorthreehundredyearsago，nodoubtthedescendantsofthewomanofSamaria，livingthereinShechem，stillreferwithpardonablevanitytothisconversationoftheirancestor，heldsomelittletimegoneby，withtheMessiahoftheChristians。Itisnotlikelythattheyundervalueadistinctionsuchasthis。Samaritannatureishumannature，andhumannaturerememberscontactwiththeillustrious，always。
Foranoffensedonetothefamilyhonor，thesonsofJacobexterminatedallShechemonce。
WeleftJacob\'sWellandtraveledtilleightintheevening，butratherslowly，forwehadbeeninthesaddlenineteenhours，andthehorseswerecruellytired。WegotsofaraheadofthetentsthatwehadtocampinanArabvillage，andsleepontheground。Wecouldhavesleptinthelargestofthehouses;butthereweresomelittledrawbacks:itwaspopulouswithvermin，ithadadirtfloor，itwasinnorespectcleanly，andtherewasafamilyofgoatsintheonlybedroom，andtwodonkeysintheparlor。Outsidetherewerenoinconveniences，exceptthatthedusky，ragged，earnesteyedvillagersofbothsexesandallagesgroupedthemselvesontheirhaunchesallaroundus，anddiscussedusandcriticiseduswithnoisytonguestillmidnight。Wedidnotmindthenoise，beingtired，but，doubtless，thereaderisawarethatitisalmostanimpossiblethingtogotosleepwhenyouknowthatpeoplearelookingatyou。Wewenttobedatten，andgotupagainattwoandstartedoncemore。Thusarepeoplepersecutedbydragomen，whosesoleambitioninlifeistogetaheadofeachother。
AboutdaylightwepassedShiloh，wheretheArkoftheCovenantrestedthreehundredyears，andatwhosegatesgoodoldElifelldownand\"brakehisneck\"whenthemessenger，ridinghardfromthebattle，toldhimofthedefeatofhispeople，thedeathofhissons，and，morethanall，thecaptureofIsrael\'spride，herhope，herrefuge，theancientArkherforefathersbroughtwiththemoutofEgypt。Itislittlewonderthatundercircumstanceslikethesehefelldownandbrakehisneck。ButShilohhadnocharmsforus。Weweresocoldthattherewasnocomfortbutinmotion，andsodrowsywecouldhardlysituponthehorses。
Afterawhilewecametoashapelessmassofruins，whichstillbearsthenameofBethel。ItwasherethatJacoblaydownandhadthatsuperbvisionofangelsflittingupanddownaladderthatreachedfromthecloudstoearth，andcaughtglimpsesoftheirblessedhomethroughtheopengatesofHeavenThepilgrimstookwhatwasleftofthehallowedruin，andwepressedontowardthegoalofourcrusade，renownedJerusalem。
Thefurtherwewentthehotterthesungot，andthemorerockyandbare，repulsiveanddrearythelandscapebecame。Therecouldnothavebeenmorefragmentsofstonestrewnbroadcastoverthispartoftheworld，ifeverytensquarefeetofthelandhadbeenoccupiedbyaseparateanddistinctstonecutter\'sestablishmentforanage。Therewashardlyatreeorashrubanywhere。Eventheoliveandthecactus，thosefastfriendsofaworthlesssoil，hadalmostdesertedthecountry。NolandscapeexiststhatismoretiresometotheeyethanthatwhichboundstheapproachestoJerusalem。
Theonlydifferencebetweentheroadsandthesurroundingcountry，perhaps，isthattherearerathermorerocksintheroadsthaninthesurroundingcountry。
WepassedRamah，andBeroth，andontherightsawthetomboftheprophetSamuel，perchedhighuponacommandingeminence。StillnoJerusalemcameinsight。Wehurriedonimpatiently。WehaltedamomentattheancientFountainofBeira，butitsstones，worndeeplybythechinsofthirstyanimalsthataredeadandgonecenturiesago，hadnointerestforus——
welongedtoseeJerusalem。Wespurreduphillafterhill，andusuallybegantostretchournecksminutesbeforewegottothetop——butdisappointmentalwaysfollowed:——morestupidhillsbeyond——moreunsightlylandscape——noHolyCity。
Atlast，awayinthemiddleoftheday，ancientbiteofwallandcrumblingarchesbegantolinetheway——wetoileduponemorehill，andeverypilgrimandeverysinnerswunghishatonhigh！Jerusalem！
Perchedonitseternalhills，whiteanddomedandsolid，massedtogetherandhoopedwithhighgraywalls，thevenerablecitygleamedinthesun。
Sosmall！Why，itwasnolargerthananAmericanvillageoffourthousandinhabitants，andnolargerthananordinarySyriancityofthirtythousand。
JerusalemnumbersonlyfourteenthousandpeopleWedismountedandlooked，withoutspeakingadozensentences，acrossthewideinterveningvalleyforanhourormore;andnotedthoseprominentfeaturesofthecitythatpicturesmakefamiliartoallmenfromtheirschooldaystilltheirdeath。WecouldrecognizetheTowerofHippicus，theMosqueofOmar，theDamascusGate，theMountofOlives，theValleyofJehoshaphat，theTowerofDavid，andtheGardenofGethsemaneanddatingfromtheselandmarkscouldtellverynearlythelocalitiesofmanyotherswewerenotabletodistinguish。
Irecordithereasanotablebutnotdiscreditablefactthatnotevenourpilgrimswept。Ithinktherewasnoindividualinthepartywhosebrainwasnotteemingwiththoughtsandimagesandmemoriesinvokedbythegrandhistoryofthevenerablecitythatlaybeforeus，butstillamongthemallwasno\"voiceofthemthatwept。\"
Therewasnocallfortears。Tearswouldhavebeenoutofplace。ThethoughtsJerusalemsuggestsarefullofpoetry，sublimity，andmorethanall，dignity。Suchthoughtsdonotfindtheirappropriateexpressionintheemotionsofthenursery。
Justafternoonweenteredthesenarrow，crookedstreets，bytheancientandthefamedDamascusGate，andnowforseveralhoursIhavebeentryingtocomprehendthatIamactuallyintheillustriousoldcitywhereSolomondwelt，whereAbrahamheldconversewiththeDeity，andwherewallsstillstandthatwitnessedthespectacleoftheCrucifixion。
Chapter53
AfastwalkercouldgooutsidethewallsofJerusalemandwalkentirelyaroundthecityinanhour。Idonotknowhowelsetomakeoneunderstandhowsmallitis。Theappearanceofthecityispeculiar。Itisasknobbywithcountlesslittledomesasaprisondooriswithbolt—heads。Everyhousehasfromonetohalfadozenofthesewhiteplastereddomesofstone，broadandlow，sittinginthecentreof，orinaclusterupon，theflatroof。Wherefore，whenonelooksdownfromaneminence，uponthecompactmassofhouses（socloselycrowdedtogether，infact，thatthereisnoappearanceofstreetsatall，andsothecitylookssolid，）heseestheknobbiesttownintheworld，exceptConstantinople。Itlooksasifitmightberoofed，fromcentretocircumference，withinvertedsaucers。ThemonotonyoftheviewisinterruptedonlybythegreatMosqueofOmar，theTowerofHippicus，andoneortwootherbuildingsthatriseintocommandingprominence。
Thehousesaregenerallytwostorieshigh，builtstronglyofmasonry，whitewashedorplasteredoutside，andhaveacageofwoodenlattice—workprojectinginfrontofeverywindow。ToreproduceaJerusalemstreet，itwouldonlybenecessarytoup—endachicken—coopandhangitbeforeeachwindowinanalleyofAmericanhouses。
Thestreetsareroughlyandbadlypavedwithstone，andaretolerablycrooked——enoughsotomakeeachstreetappeartoclosetogetherconstantlyandcometoanendaboutahundredyardsaheadofapilgrimaslongashechoosestowalkinit。Projectingfromthetopofthelowerstoryofmanyofthehousesisaverynarrowporch—rooforshed，withoutsupportsfrombelow;andIhaveseveraltimesseencatsjumpacrossthestreetfromoneshedtotheotherwhentheywereoutcalling。Thecatscouldhavejumpeddoublethedistancewithoutextraordinaryexertion。Imentionthesethingstogiveanideaofhownarrowthestreetsare。Sinceacatcanjumpacrossthemwithouttheleastinconvenience，itishardlynecessarytostatethatsuchstreetsaretoonarrowforcarriages。ThesevehiclescannotnavigatetheHolyCity。
ThepopulationofJerusalemiscomposedofMoslems，Jews，Greeks，Latins，Armenians，Syrians，Copts，Abyssinians，GreekCatholics，andahandfulofProtestants。OnehundredofthelattersectareallthatdwellnowinthisbirthplaceofChristianity。Theniceshadesofnationalitycomprisedintheabovelist，andthelanguagesspokenbythem，arealtogethertoonumeroustomention。ItseemstomethatalltheracesandcolorsandtonguesoftheearthmustberepresentedamongthefourteenthousandsoulsthatdwellinJerusalem。Rags，wretchedness，povertyanddirt，thosesignsandsymbolsthatindicatethepresenceofMoslemrulemoresurelythanthecrescent—flagitself，abound。Lepers，cripples，theblind，andtheidiotic，assailyouoneveryhand，andtheyknowbutonewordofbutonelanguageapparently——theeternal\"bucksheesh。\"Toseethenumbersofmaimed，malformedanddiseasedhumanitythatthrongtheholyplacesandobstructthegates，onemightsupposethattheancientdayshadcomeagain，andthattheangeloftheLordwasexpectedtodescendatanymomenttostirthewatersofBethesda。Jerusalemismournful，anddreary，andlifeless。Iwouldnotdesiretolivehere。
OnenaturallygoesfirsttotheHolySepulchre。Itisrightinthecity，nearthewesterngate;itandtheplaceoftheCrucifixion，and，infact，everyotherplaceintimatelyconnectedwiththattremendousevent，areingeniouslymassedtogetherandcoveredbyoneroof——thedomeoftheChurchoftheHolySepulchre。
Enteringthebuilding，throughthemidstoftheusualassemblageofbeggars，oneseesonhisleftafewTurkishguards——forChristiansofdifferentsectswillnotonlyquarrel，butfight，also，inthissacredplace，ifallowedtodoit。Beforeyouisamarbleslab，whichcoverstheStoneofUnction，whereontheSaviour\'sbodywaslaidtoprepareitforburial。Itwasfoundnecessarytoconcealtherealstoneinthiswayinordertosaveitfromdestruction。Pilgrimsweretoomuchgiventochippingoffpiecesofittocarryhome。NearbyisacircularrailingwhichmarksthespotwheretheVirginstoodwhentheLord\'sbodywasanointed。
EnteringthegreatRotunda，westandbeforethemostsacredlocalityinChristendom——thegraveofJesus。Itisinthecentreofthechurch，andimmediatelyunderthegreatdome。Itisinclosedinasortoflittletempleofyellowandwhitestone，offancifuldesign。WithinthelittletempleisaportionoftheverystonewhichwasrolledawayfromthedooroftheSepulchre，andonwhichtheangelwassittingwhenMarycamethither\"atearlydawn。\"Stoopinglow，weenterthevault——theSepulchreitself。
Itisonlyaboutsixfeetbyseven，andthestonecouchonwhichthedeadSaviourlayextendsfromendtoendoftheapartmentandoccupieshalfitswidth。Itiscoveredwithamarbleslabwhichhasbeenmuchwornbythelipsofpilgrims。Thisslabservesasanaltar，now。Overithangsomefiftygoldandsilverlamps，whicharekeptalwaysburning，andtheplaceisotherwisescandalizedbytrumpery，gewgaws，andtawdryornamentation。
AllsectsofChristians（exceptProtestants，）havechapelsundertheroofoftheChurchoftheHolySepulchre，andeachmustkeeptoitselfandnotventureuponanother\'sground。IthasbeenprovenconclusivelythattheycannotworshiptogetheraroundthegraveoftheSaviouroftheWorldinpeace。ThechapeloftheSyriansisnothandsome;thatoftheCoptsisthehumblestofthemall。Itisnothingbutadismalcavern，roughlyhewninthelivingrockoftheHillofCalvary。Inonesideofittwoancienttombsarehewn，whichareclaimedtobethoseinwhichNicodemusandJosephofAramatheawereburied。
Aswemovedamongthegreatpiersandpillarsofanotherpartofthechurch，wecameuponapartyofblack—robed，animal—lookingItalianmonks，withcandlesintheirhands，whowerechantingsomethinginLatin，andgoingthroughsomekindofreligiousperformancearoundadiskofwhitemarbleletintothefloor。ItwastherethattherisenSaviourappearedtoMaryMagdaleninthelikenessofagardener。Nearbywasasimilarstone，shapedlikeastar——heretheMagdalenherselfstood，atthesametime。
Monkswereperforminginthisplacealso。Theyperformeverywhere——alloverthevastbuilding，andatallhours。Theircandlesarealwaysflittingaboutinthegloom，andmakingthedimoldchurchmoredismalthanthereisanynecessitythatitshouldbe，eventhoughitisatomb。
WewereshowntheplacewhereourLordappearedtoHismotheraftertheResurrection。Here，also，amarbleslabmarkstheplacewhereSt。Helena，themotheroftheEmperorConstantine，foundthecrossesaboutthreehundredyearsaftertheCrucifixion。Accordingtothelegend，thisgreatdiscoveryelicitedextravagantdemonstrationsofjoy。Buttheywereofshortduration。
Thequestionintrudeditself:\"WhichboretheblessedSaviour，andwhichthethieves？\"Tobeindoubt，insomightyamatterasthis——tobeuncertainwhichonetoadore——wasagrievousmisfortune。Itturnedthepublicjoytosorrow。Butwhenlivedthereaholypriestwhocouldnotsettosimpleatroubleasthisatrest？Oneofthesesoonhituponaplanthatwouldbeacertaintest。AnobleladylayveryillinJerusalem。Thewisepriestsorderedthatthethreecrossesbetakentoherbedsideoneatatime。Itwasdone。Whenhereyesfelluponthefirstone，sheutteredascreamthatwasheardbeyondtheDamascusGate，andevenupontheMountofOlives，itwassaid，andthenfellbackinadeadlyswoon。Theyrecoveredherandbroughtthesecondcross。Instantlyshewentintofearfulconvulsions，anditwaswiththegreatestdifficultythatsixstrongmencouldholdher。Theywereafraid，now，tobringinthethirdcross。Theybegantofearthatpossiblytheyhadfallenuponthewrongcrosses，andthatthetruecrosswasnotwiththisnumberatall。However，asthewomanseemedlikelytodiewiththeconvulsionsthatweretearingher，theyconcludedthatthethirdcoulddonomorethanputheroutofhermiserywithahappydispatch。Sotheybroughtit，andbehold，amiracle！Thewomansprangfromherbed，smilingandjoyful，andperfectlyrestoredtohealth。Whenwelistentoevidencelikethis，wecannotbutbelieve。Wewouldbeashamedtodoubt，andproperly，too。EventheverypartofJerusalemwherethisalloccurredisthereyet。Sothereisreallynoroomfordoubt。
Theprieststriedtoshowus，throughasmallscreen，afragmentofthegenuinePillarofFlagellation，towhichChristwasboundwhentheyscourgedhim。Butwecouldnotseeit，becauseitwasdarkinsidethescreen。
However，abatoniskepthere，whichthepilgrimthruststhroughaholeinthescreen，andthenhenolongerdoubtsthatthetruePillarofFlagellationisinthere。Hecannothaveanyexcusetodoubtit，forhecanfeelitwiththestick。Hecanfeelitasdistinctlyashecouldfeelanything。