Wewerecompelledtojumpoverupwardsofeighteenhundreddonkeys，andonlyonepersoninthepartywasunseatedlessthansixtytimesbythecamels。Thisseemslikeapowerfulstatement，butthepoethassaid，\"
Thingsarenotwhattheyseem。\"Icannotthinkofanything，now，morecertaintomakeoneshudder，thantohaveasoftfootedcamelsneakupbehindhimandtouchhimontheearwithitscold，flabbyunderlip。
Acameldidthisforoneoftheboys，whowasdroopingoverhissaddleinabrownstudy。Heglancedupandsawthemajesticapparitionhoveringabovehim，andmadefranticeffortstogetoutoftheway，butthecamelreachedoutandbithimontheshoulderbeforeheaccomplishedit。Thiswastheonlypleasantincidentofthejourney。
AtNazarethwecampedinanolivegroveneartheVirginMary\'sfountain，andthatwonderfulArab\"guard\"cametocollectsomebucksheeshforhis\"services\"infollowingusfromTiberiasandwardingoffinvisibledangerswiththeterrorsofhisarmament。Thedragomanhadpaidhismaster，butthatcountedasnothing——ifyouhireamantosneezeforyou，here，andanothermanchoosestohelphim，youhavegottopayboth。Theydonothingwhateverwithoutpay。Howitmusthavesurprisedthesepeopletohearthewayofsalvationofferedtothem\"withoutmoneyandwithoutprice。\"
Ifthemanners，thepeopleorthecustomsofthiscountryhavechangedsincetheSaviour\'stime，thefiguresandmetaphorsoftheBiblearenottheevidencestoproveitby。
WeenteredthegreatLatinConventwhichisbuiltoverthetraditionaldwellingplaceoftheHolyFamily。Wewentdownaflightoffifteenstepsbelowthegroundlevel，andstoodinasmallchapeltrickedoutwithtapestryhangings，silverlamps，andoilpaintings。Aspotmarkedbyacross，inthemarblefloor，underthealtar，wasexhibitedastheplacemadeforeverholybythefeetoftheVirginwhenshestooduptoreceivethemessageoftheangel。Sosimple，sounpretendingalocality，tobethesceneofsomightyanevent！TheverysceneoftheAnnunciation——
aneventwhichhasbeencommemoratedbysplendidshrinesandaugusttemplesalloverthecivilizedworld，andonewhichtheprincesofarthavemadeittheirloftiestambitiontopictureworthilyontheircanvas;aspotwhosehistoryisfamiliartotheverychildrenofeveryhouse，andcity，andobscurehamletofthefurthestlandsofChristendom;aspotwhichmyriadsofmenwouldtoilacrossthebreadthofaworldtosee，wouldconsideritapricelessprivilegetolookupon。Itwaseasytothinkthesethoughts。
Butitwasnoteasytobringmyselfuptothemagnitudeofthesituation。
Icouldsitoffseveralthousandmilesandimaginetheangelappearing，withshadowywingsandlustrouscountenance，andnotetheglorythatstreameddownwardupontheVirgin\'sheadwhilethemessagefromtheThroneofGodfelluponherears——anyonecandothat，beyondtheocean，butfewcandoithere。Isawthelittlerecessfromwhichtheangelstepped，butcouldnotfillitsvoid。TheangelsthatIknowarecreaturesofunstablefancy——theywillnotfitinnichesofsubstantialstone。Imaginationlaborsbestindistantfields。IdoubtifanymancanstandintheGrottooftheAnnunciationandpeoplewiththephantomimagesofhisminditstootangiblewallsofstone。
Theyshowedusabrokengranitepillar，dependingfromtheroof，whichtheysaidwashackedintwobytheMoslemconquerorsofNazareth，inthevainhopeofpullingdownthesanctuary。Butthepillarremainedmiraculouslysuspendedintheair，and，unsupporteditself，supportedthenandstillsupportstheroof。Bydividingthisstatementupamongeight，itwasfoundnotdifficulttobelieveit。
ThesegiftedLatinmonksneverdoanythingbyhalves。IftheyweretoshowyoutheBrazenSerpentthatwaselevatedinthewilderness，youcoulddependuponitthattheyhadonhandthepoleitwaselevatedonalso，andeventheholeitstoodin。Theyhavegotthe\"Grotto\"oftheAnnunciationhere;andjustasconvenienttoitasone\'sthroatistohismouth，theyhavealsotheVirgin\'sKitchen，andevenhersittingroom，wheresheandJosephwatchedtheinfantSaviourplaywithHebrewtoyseighteenhundredyearsago。Allunderoneroof，andallclean，spacious，comfortable\"grottoes。\"ItseemscuriousthatpersonagesintimatelyconnectedwiththeHolyFamilyalwayslivedingrottoes——inNazareth，inBethlehem，inimperialEphesus——andyetnobodyelseintheirdayandgenerationthoughtofdoinganythingofthekind。Iftheyeverdid，theirgrottoesareallgone，andIsupposeweoughttowonderatthepeculiarmarvelofthepreservationoftheseIspeakofWhentheVirginfledfromHerod\'swrath，shehidinagrottoinBethlehem，andthesameistheretothisday。TheslaughteroftheinnocentsinBethlehemwasdoneinagrotto;
theSaviourwasborninagrotto——bothareshowntopilgrimsyet。Itisexceedinglystrangethatthesetremendouseventsallhappenedingrottoes——andexceedinglyfortunate，likewise，becausethestrongesthousesmustcrumbletoruinintime，butagrottointhedivingrockwilllastforever。
Itisanimposture——thisgrottostuff——butitisonethatallmenoughttothanktheCatholicsfor。WherevertheyferretoutalostlocalitymadeholybysomeScripturalevent，theystraightwaybuildamassive——almostimperishable——churchthere，andpreservethememoryofthatlocalityforthegratificationoffuturegenerations。IfithadbeenlefttoProtestantstodothismostworthywork，wewouldnotevenknowwhereJerusalemistoday，andthemanwhocouldgoandputhisfingeronNazarethwouldbetoowiseforthisworld。TheworldowestheCatholicsitsgoodwillevenforthehappyrascalityofhewingoutthesebogusgrottoesintherock;foritisinfinitelymoresatisfactorytolookatagrotto，wherepeoplehavefaithfullybelievedforcenturiesthattheVirginoncelived，thantohavetoimagineadwellingplaceforhersomewhere，anywhere，nowhere，looseandatlargealloverthistownofNazareth。Thereistoolargeascopeofcountry。Theimaginationcannotwork。Thereisnooneparticularspottochainyoureye，rivetyourinterest，andmakeyouthink。
ThememoryofthePilgrimscannotperishwhilePlymouthRockremainstous。Theoldmonksarewise。Theyknowhowtodriveastakethroughapleasanttraditionthatwillholdittoitsplaceforever。
WevisitedtheplaceswhereJesusworkedforfifteenyearsasacarpenter，andwhereheattemptedtoteachinthesynagogueandwasdrivenoutbyamob。Catholicchapelsstanduponthesesitesandprotectthelittlefragmentsoftheancientwallswhichremain。Ourpilgrimsbrokeoffspecimens。Wevisited，also，anewchapel，inthemidstofthetown，whichisbuiltaroundabouldersometwelvefeetlongbyfourfeetthick;thepriestsdiscovered，afewyearsago，thatthediscipleshadsatuponthisrocktorest，once，whentheyhadwalkedupfromCapernaum。Theyhastenedtopreservetherelic。
Relicsareverygoodproperty。Travelersareexpectedtopayforseeingthem，andtheydoitcheerfully。Weliketheidea。One\'sconsciencecanneverbetheworsefortheknowledgethathehaspaidhiswaylikeaman。
Ourpilgrimswouldhavelikedverywelltogetouttheirlampblackandstencilplatesandpainttheirnamesonthatrock，togetherwiththenamesofthevillagestheyhailfrominAmerica，butthepriestspermitnothingofthatkind。Tospeakthestricttruth，however，ourpartyseldomoffendinthatway，thoughwehavemenintheshipwhoneverloseanopportunitytodoit。Ourpilgrims\'chiefsinistheirlustfor\"specimens。\"Isupposethatbythistimetheyknowthedimensionsofthatrocktoaninch，anditsweighttoaton;andIdonothesitatetochargethattheywillgobacktheretonightandtrytocarryitoff。
This\"FountainoftheVirgin\"istheonewhichtraditionsaysMaryusedtogetwaterfrom，twentytimesaday，whenshewasagirl，andbearitawayinajaruponherhead。Thewaterstreamsthroughfaucetsinthefaceofawallofancientmasonrywhichstandsremovedfromthehousesofthevillage。TheyounggirlsofNazarethstillcollectaboutitbythedozenandkeepupariotouslaughterandskylarking。TheNazarenegirlsarehomely。Someofthemhavelarge，lustrouseyes，butnoneofthemhaveprettyfaces。Thesegirlswearasinglegarment，usually，anditisloose，shapeless，ofundecidedcolor;itisgenerallyoutofrepair，too。
Theywear，fromcrowntojaw，curiousstringsofoldcoins，afterthemannerofthebellesofTiberias，andbrassjewelryupontheirwristsandintheirears。Theywearnoshoesandstockings。Theyarethemosthumangirlswehavefoundinthecountryyet，andthebestnatured。Butthereisnoquestionthatthesepicturesquemaidenssadlylackcomeliness。
Apilgrim——the\"Enthusiast\"——said:\"Seethattall，gracefulgirl！
lookattheMadonnalikebeautyofhercountenance！\"
Anotherpilgrimcamealongpresentlyandsaid:\"Observethattall，gracefulgirl;whatqueenlyMadonnalikegracefulnessofbeautyisinhercountenance。\"
Isaid:\"Sheisnottall，sheisshort;sheisnotbeautiful，sheishomely;sheisgracefulenough，Igrant，butsheisratherboisterous。\"
Thethirdandlastpilgrimmovedby，beforelong，andhesaid:\"Ah，whatatall，gracefulgirl！whatMadonna—likegracefulnessofqueenlybeauty！\"
Theverdictswereallin。Itwastime，now，tolookuptheauthoritiesforalltheseopinions。Ifoundthisparagraph，whichfollows。Writtenbywhom？Wm。C。Grimes:\"Afterwewereinthesaddle，werodedowntothespringtohavealastlookatthewomenofNazareth，whowere，asaclass，muchtheprettiestthatwehadseenintheEast。AsweapproachedthecrowdatallgirlofnineteenadvancedtowardMiriamandofferedheracupofwater。Hermovementwasgracefulandqueenly。WeexclaimedonthespotattheMadonna—likebeautyofhercountenance。Whitelywassuddenlythirsty，andbeggedforwater，anddrankitslowly，withhiseyesoverthetopofthecup，fixedonherlargeblackeyes，whichgazedonhimquiteascuriouslyasheonher。ThenMorerightwantedwater。Shegaveittohimandhemanagedtospillitsoastoaskforanothercup，andbythetimeshecametomeshesawthroughtheoperation;hereyeswerefulloffunasshelookedatme。Ilaughedoutright，andshejoinedmeinasgayashoutasevercountrymaideninoldOrangecounty。Iwishedforapictureofher。AMadonna，whosefacewasaportraitofthatbeautifulNazarethgirtwouldbea\'thingofbeauty\'and\'ajoyforever。\'\"ThatisthekindofgruelwhichhasbeenservedoutfromPalestineforages。CommendmetoFennimoreCoopertofindbeautyintheIndians，andtoGrimestofinditintheArabs。Arabmenareoftenfinelooking，butArabwomenarenot。WecanallbelievethattheVirginMarywasbeautiful;itisnotnaturaltothinkotherwise;butdoesitfollowthatitisourdutytofindbeautyinthesepresentwomenofNazareth？
IlovetoquotefromGrimes，becauseheissodramatic。Andbecauseheissoromantic。Andbecauseheseemstocarebutlittlewhetherhetellsthetruthornot，sohescaresthereaderorexciteshisenvyorhisadmiration。
Hewentthroughthispeacefullandwithonehandforeveronhisrevolver，andtheotheronhispockethandkerchief。Always，whenhewasnotonthepointofcryingoveraholyplace，hewasonthepointofkillinganArab。MoresurprisingthingshappenedtohiminPalestinethaneverhappenedtoanytravelerhereorelsewheresinceMunchausendied。
AtBeitin，wherenobodyhadinterferedwithhim，hecreptoutofhistentatdeadofnightandshotatwhathetooktobeanArablyingonarock，somedistanceaway，planningevil。Theballkilledawolf。Justbeforehefired，hemakesadramaticpictureofhimself——asusual，toscarethereader:\"Wasitimagination，ordidIseeamovingobjectonthesurfaceoftherock？Ifitwereaman，whydidhenotnowdropme？
HehadabeautifulshotasIstoodoutinmyblackboornooseagainstthewhitetent。Ihadthesensationofanenteringbulletinmythroat，breast，brain。\"Recklesscreature！
RidingtowardGenessaret，theysawtwoBedouins，and\"welookedtoourpistolsandloosenedthemquietlyinourshawls，\"etc。Alwayscool。
InSamaria，hechargedupahill，inthefaceofavolleyofstones;hefiredintothecrowdofmenwhothrewthem。Hesays:\"IneverlostanopportunityofimpressingtheArabswiththeperfectionofAmericanandEnglishweapons，andthedangerofattackinganyoneofthearmedFranks。Ithinkthelessonofthatballnotlost。\"AtBeitinhegavehiswholebandofArabmuleteersapieceofhismind，andthen——\"IcontentedmyselfwithasolemnassurancethatifthereoccurredanotherinstanceofdisobediencetoordersIwouldthrashtheresponsiblepartyasheneverdreamedofbeingthrashed，andifIcouldnotfindwhowasresponsible，Iwouldwhipthemall，fromfirsttolast，whethertherewasagovernorathandtodoitorIhadtodoitmyself\"Perfectlyfearless，thisman。
Herodedowntheperpendicularpathintherocks，fromtheCastleofBaniastotheoakgrove，ataflyinggallop，hishorsestriding\"thirtyfeet\"ateverybound。IstandpreparedtobringthirtyreliablewitnessestoprovethatPutnam\'sfamousfeatatHorseneckwasinsignificantcomparedtothis。
Beholdhim——alwaystheatrical——lookingatJerusalem——thistime，byanoversight，withhishandoffhispistolforonce。\"Istoodintheroad，myhandonmyhorse\'sneck，andwithmydimeyessoughttotracetheoutlinesoftheholyplaceswhichIhadlongbeforefixedinmymind，butthefastflowingtearsforbademysucceeding。TherewereourMohammedanservants，aLatinmonk，twoArmeniansandaJewinourcortege，andallalikegazedwithoverflowingeyes。\"IfLatinmonksandArabscried，Iknowtoamoralcertaintythatthehorsescriedalso，andsothepictureiscomplete。
Butwhennecessitydemanded，hecouldbefirmasadamant。IntheLebanonValleyanArabyouth——aChristian;heisparticulartoexplainthatMohammedansdonotsteal——robbedhimofapaltrytendollars\'worthofpowderandshot。Heconvictedhimbeforeasheikandlookedonwhilehewaspunishedbytheterriblebastinado。Hearhim:\"He（Mousa）wasonhisbackinatwinkling，howling，shouting，screaming，buthewascarriedouttothepiazzabeforethedoor，wherewecouldseetheoperation，andlaidfacedown。Onemansatonhisbackandoneonhislegs，thelatterholdinguphisfeet，whileathirdlaidonthebaresolesarhinoceroshidekoorbash*thatwhizzedthroughtheairateverystroke。PoorMorerightwasinagony，andNamaandNamatheSecond（motherandsisterofMousa，）wereontheirfacesbeggingandwailing，nowembracingmykneesandnowWhitely\'s，whilethebrother，outside，madetheairringwithcrieslouderthanMousa\'s。EvenYusefcameandaskedmeonhiskneestorelent，andlastofall，Betuni——therascalhadlostafeedbagintheirhouseandhadbeenloudestinhisdenunciationsthatmorning——besoughttheHowajjitohavemercyonthefellow。\"Butnothe！Thepunishmentwas\"suspended，\"atthefifteenthblowtoheartheconfession。ThenGrimesandhispartyrodeaway，andlefttheentireChristianfamilytobefinedandasseverelypunishedastheMohammedansheikshoulddeemproper。\"AKoorbashisArabicforcowhide，thecowbeingarhinoceros。
Itisthemostcruelwhipknowntofame。Heavyaslead，andflexibleasIndia—rubber，usuallyaboutfortyincheslongandtaperinggraduallyfromaninchindiametertoapoint，itadministersablowwhichleavesitsmarkfortime。\"——ScowLifeinEgypt，bythesameauthor。\"AsImounted，Yusefoncemorebeggedmetointerfereandhavemercyonthem，butIlookedaroundatthedarkfacesofthecrowd，andIcouldn\'tfindonedropofpityinmyheartforthem。\"Hecloseshispicturewitharollickingburstofhumorwhichcontrastsfinelywiththegriefofthemotherandherchildren。
Onemoreparagraph:\"ThenoncemoreIbowedmyhead。ItisnoshametohaveweptinPalestine。Iwept，whenIsawJerusalem，IweptwhenI
layinthestarlightatBethlehem。IweptontheblessedshoresofGalilee。
Myhandwasnolessfirmontherein，myangerdidnottrembleonthetriggerofmypistolwhenIrodewithitinmyrighthandalongtheshoreofthebluesea\"（weeping。）\"Myeyewasnotdimmedbythosetearsnormyheartinaughtweakened。Lethimwhowouldsneeratmyemotionclosethisvolumehere，forhewillfindlittletohistasteinmyjourneyingsthroughHolyLand。\"Heneverboredbuthestruckwater。
IamawarethatthisisaprettyvoluminousnoticeofMr。Grimes\'book。
However，itisproperandlegitimatetospeakofit，for\"NomadicLifeinPalestine\"isarepresentativebook——therepresentativeofaclassofPalestinebooks——andacriticismuponitwillserveforacriticismuponthemall。AndsinceIamtreatingitinthecomprehensivecapacityofarepresentativebook，Ihavetakenthelibertyofgivingtobothbookandauthorfictitiousnames。Perhapsitisinbettertaste，anyhow，todothis。
Chapter51
NazarethiswonderfullyinterestingbecausethetownhasanairaboutitofbeingpreciselyasJesusleftit，andonefindshimselfsaying，allthetime，\"TheboyJesushasstoodinthisdoorway——hasplayedinthatstreet——hastouchedthesestoneswithhishands——hasrambledoverthesechalkyhills。\"WhoevershallwritetheboyhoodofJesusingeniouslywillmakeabookwhichwillpossessavividinterestforyoungandoldalike。
IjudgesofromthegreaterinterestwefoundinNazareththananyofourspeculationsuponCapernaumandtheSeaofGalileegaveriseto。Itwasnotpossible，standingbytheSeaofGalilee，toframemorethanavague，far—awayideaofthemajesticPersonagewhowalkeduponthecrestedwavesasiftheyhadbeensolidearth，andwhotouchedthedeadandtheyroseupandspoke。Ireadamongmynotes，now，withanewinterest，somesentencesfromaneditionof1621oftheApocryphalNewTestament。[Extract。]\"Christ，kissedbyabridemadedumbbysorcerers，curesher。
AleprousgirlcuredbythewaterinwhichtheinfantChristwaswashed，andbecomestheservantofJosephandHary。TheleproussonofaPrincecuredinlikemanner。\"Ayoungmanwhohadbeenbewitchedandturnedintoamule，miraculouslycuredbytheinfantSaviorbeingputonhisback，andismarriedtothegirlwhohadbeencuredofleprosy。WhereuponthebystanderspraiseGod。\"Chapter16。Christmiraculouslywidensorcontractsgates，milk—pails，sievesorboxes，notproperlymadebyJoseph，henotbeingskillfulathiscarpenter\'strade。TheKingofJerusalemgivesJosephanorderforathrone。Josephworksonitfortwoyearsandmakesittwospanstooshort。TheKingbeingangrywithhim，Jesuscomfortshim——commandshimtopullonesideofthethronewhilehepullstheother，andbringsittoitsproperdimensions。\"Chapter19。Jesus，chargedwiththrowingaboyfromtheroofofahouse，miraculouslycausesthedeadboytospeakandacquithim;fetcheswaterforhismother，breaksthepitcherandmiraculouslygathersthewaterinhismantleandbringsithome。\"Senttoaschoolmaster，refusestotellhisletters，andtheschoolmastergoingtowhiphim，hishandwithers。\"FurtheroninthisquaintvolumeofrejectedgospelsisanepistleofSt。
ClementtotheCorinthians，whichwasusedinthechurchesandconsideredgenuinefourteenorfifteenhundredyearsago。Initthisaccountofthefabledphoenixoccurs:\"1。Letusconsiderthatwonderfultypeoftheresurrection，whichisseenintheEasterncountries，thatistosay，inArabia。\"2。Thereisacertainbirdcalledaphoenix。Ofthisthereisneverbutoneatatime，andthatlivesfivehundredyears。Andwhenthetimeofitsdissolutiondrawsnear，thatitmustdie，itmakesitselfanestoffrankincense，andmyrrh，andotherspices，intowhich，whenitstimeisfulfilled，itentersanddies。\"3。Butitsflesh，putrefying，breedsacertainworm，which，beingnourishedbythejuiceofthedeadbird，bringsforthfeathers;andwhenitisgrowntoaperfectstate，ittakesupthenestinwhichthebonesofitsparentlie，andcarriesitfromArabiaintoEgypt，toacityealledHeliopolis:\"4。Andflyinginopendayinthesightofallmen，laysituponthealtarofthesun，andsoreturnsfromwhenceitcame。\"5。Theprieststhensearchintotherecordsofthetime，andfindthatitreturnedpreciselyattheendoffivehundredyears。\"Businessisbusiness，andthereisnothinglikepunctuality，especiallyinaphoenix。
ThefewchaptersrelatingtotheinfancyoftheSaviourcontainmanythingswhichseemfrivolousandnotworthpreserving。AlargepartoftheremainingportionsofthebookreadlikegoodScripture，however。Thereisoneversethatonghtnottohavebeenrejected，becauseitsoevidentlypropheticallyreferstothegeneralrunofCongressesoftheUnitedStates:\"199。Theycarrythemselveshigh，andasprudentmen;andthoughtheyarefools，yetwouldseemtobeteachers。\"Ihavesettheseextractsdown，asIfoundthem。EverywhereamongthecathedralsofFranceandItaly，onefindstraditionsofpersonagesthatdonotfigureintheBible，andofmiraclesthatarenotmentionedinitspages。ButtheyareallinthisApocryphalNewTestament，andthoughtheyhavebeenruledoutofourmodernBible，itisclaimedthattheywereacceptedgospeltwelveorfifteencenturiesago，andrankedashighincreditasany。Oneneedstoreadthisbookbeforehevisitsthosevenerablecathedrals，withtheirtreasuresoftabooedandforgottentradition。
TheyimposedanotherpirateuponusatNazareth——anotherinvincibleArabguard。Wetookourlastlookatthecity，clinginglikeawhitewashedwasp\'snesttothehill—side，andateighto\'clockinthemorningdeparted。
Wedismountedanddrovethehorsesdownabridle—pathwhichIthinkwasfullyascrookedasacorkscrew，whichIknowtobeassteepasthedownwardsweepofarainbow，andwhichIbelievetobetheworstpieceofroadinthegeography，exceptoneintheSandwichIslands，whichIrememberpainfully，andpossiblyoneortwomountaintrailsintheSierraNevadas。Often，inthisnarrowpaththehorsehadtopoisehimselfnicelyonarudestonestepandthendrophisfore—feetovertheedgeanddownsomethingmorethanhalfhisownheight。Thisbroughthisnoseneartheground，whilehistailpointeduptowardtheskysomewhere，andgavehimtheappearanceofpreparingtostandonhishead。Ahorsecannotlookdignifiedinthisposition。Weaccomplishedthelongdescentatlast，andtrottedacrossthegreatPlainofEsdraelon。
Someofuswillbeshotbeforewefinishthispilgrimage。Thepilgrimsread\"NomadicLife\"andkeepthemselvesinaconstantstateofQuixoticheroism。Theyhavetheirhandsontheirpistolsallthetime，andeverynowandthen，whenyouleastexpectit，theysnatchthemoutandtakeaimatBedouinswhoarenotvisible，anddrawtheirknivesandmakesavagepassesatotherBedouinswhodonotexist。Iamindeadlyperilalways，forthesespasmsaresuddenandirregular，andofcourseIcannottellwhentobegettingoutoftheway。IfIamaccidentallymurdered，sometime，duringoneoftheseromanticfrenziesofthepilgrims，Mr。Grimesmustberigidlyheldtoanswerasanaccessorybeforethefact。Ifthepilgrimswouldtakedeliberateaimandshootataman，itwouldbeallrightandproper——becausethatmanwouldnotbeinanydanger;buttheserandomassaultsarewhatIobjectto。IdonotwishtoseeanymoreplaceslikeEsdraelon，wherethegroundislevelandpeoplecangallop。Itputsmelodramaticnonsenseintothepilgrims\'heads。Allatonce，whenoneisjoggingalongstupidlyinthesun，andthinkingaboutsormethingeversofaraway，heretheycome，atastormygallop，spurringandwhoopingatthoseridgyoldsore—backedplugstilltheirheelsflyhigherthantheirheads，andastheywhizby，outcomesalittlepotato—gumofarevolver，thereisastartlinglittlepop，andasmallpelletgoessingingthroughtheair。NowthatIhavebegunthispilgrimage，Iintendtogothroughwithit，thoughsoothtosay，nothingbutthemostdesperatevalorhaskeptmetomypurposeuptothepresenttime。IdonotmindBedouins，——
Iamnotafraidofthem;becauseneitherBedouinsnorordinaryArabshaveshownanydispositiontoharmus，butIdofeelafraidofmyowncomrades。
ArrivingatthefurthestvergeofthePlain，werodealittlewayupahillandfoundourselvesatEndor，famousforitswitch。Herdescendantsarethereyet。Theywerethewildesthordeofhalf—nakedsavageswehavefoundthusfar。Theyswarmedoutofmudbee—hives;outofhovelsofthedry—goodsboxpattern;outofgapingcavesundershelvingrocks;outofcrevicesintheearth。Infiveminutesthedeadsolitudeandsilenceoftheplacewerenomore，andabegging，screeching，shoutingmobwerestrugglingaboutthehorses\'feetandblockingtheway。\'\'Bucksheesh！bucksheesh！
bucksheesh！howajji，bucksheesh！\"ItwasMagdalaoveragain，onlyheretheglarefromtheinfideleyeswasfierceandfullofhate。Thepopulationnumberstwohundredandfifty，andmorethanhalfthecitizensliveincavesintherock。Dirt，degradationandsavageryareEndor\'sspecialty。
WesaynomoreaboutMagdalaandDeburiehnow。Endorheadsthelist。ItisworsethananyIndiancampoodie。Thehillisbarren，rocky，andforbidding。Nosprigofgrassisvisible，andonlyonetree。Thisisafig—tree，whichmaintainsaprecariousfootingamongtherocksatthemouthofthedismalcavernonceoccupiedbytheveritableWitchofEndor。Inthiscavern，traditionsays，Saul，theking，satatmidnight，andstaredandtrembled，whiletheearthshook，thethunderscrashedamongthehills，andoutofthemidstoffireandsmokethespiritofthedeadprophetroseupandconfrontedhim。Saulhadcrepttothisplaceinthedarkness，whilehisarmyslept，tolearnwhatfateawaitedhiminthemorrow\'sbattle。
Hewentawayasadman，tomeetdisgraceanddeath。
Aspringtricklesoutoftherockinthegloomyrecessesofthecavern，andwewerethirsty。ThecitizensofEndorobjectedtoourgoinginthere。
Theydonotminddirt;theydonotmindrags;theydonotmindvermin;
theydonotmindbarbarousignoranceandsavagery;theydonotmindareasonabledegreeofstarvation，buttheydoliketobepureandholybeforetheirgod，whoeverhemaybe，andthereforetheyshudderandgrowalmostpaleattheideaofChristianlipspollutingaspringwhosewatersmustdescendintotheirsanctifiedgullets。Wehadnowantondesiretowoundeventheirfeel—ingsortrampleupontheirprejudices，butwewereoutofwater，thusearlyintheday，andwereburningupwiththirst。Itwasatthistime，andunderthesecircumstances，thatIframedanaphorismwhichhasalreadybecomecelebrated。Isaid:\"Necessityknowsnolaw。\"
Wewentinanddrank。
Wegotawayfromthenoisywretches，finally，droppingtheminsquadsandconplesaswefiledoverthehills——theagedfirst，theinfantsnext，theyounggirlsfurtheron;thestrongmenranbesideusamile，andonlyleftwhentheyhadsecuredthelastpossiblepiastreinthewayofbucksheesh。
Inanhour，wereachedNain，whereChristraisedthewidow\'ssontolife。NainisMagdalaonasmallscale。Ithasnopopulationofanyconsequence。
Withinahundredyardsofitistheoriginalgraveyard，foraughtIknow;
thetombstoneslieflatontheground，whichisJewishfashioninSyria。
IbelievetheMoslemsdonotallowthemtohaveuprighttombstones。AMoslemgraveisusuallyroughlyplasteredoverandwhitewashed，andhasatoneendanuprightprojectionwhichisshapedintoexceedinglyrudeattemptsatornamentation。Inthecities，thereisoftennoappearanceofagraveatall;atall，slendermarbletombstone，elaboratelylettred，gildedandpainted，markstheburialplace，andthisissurmountedbyaturban，socarvedandshapedastosignifythedeadman\'srankinlife。
Theyshowedafragmentofancientwallwhichtheysaidwasonesideofthegateoutofwhichthewidow\'sdeadsonwasbeingbroughtsomanycenturiesagowhenJesusmettheprocession:\"Nowwhenhecamenightothegateofthecity，beholdtherewasadeadmancarriedout，theonlysonofhismother，andshewasawidow:
andmuchpeopleofthecitywaswithher。\"AndwhentheLordsawher，hehadcompassiononher，andsaid，Weepnot。\"Andhecameandtouchedthebier:andtheythatbarehimstoodstill。Andhesaid，Youngman，Isayuntothee，arise。\"Andhethatwasdeadsatup，andbegantospeak。Andhedeliveredhimtohismother。\"Andtherecameafearonall。AndtheyglorifiedGod，saying，Thatagreatprophetisrisenupamongus;andThatGodhathvisitedhispeople。\"
Alittlemosquestandsuponthespotwhichtraditionsayswasoccupiedbythewidow\'sdwelling。TwoorthreeagedArabssataboutitsdoor。Weentered，andthepilgrimsbrokespecimensfromthefoundationwalls，thoughtheyhadtotouch，andevenstep，uponthe\"prayingcarpets\"todoit。
ItwasalmostthesameasbreakingpiecesfromtheheartsofthoseoldArabs。Tosteprudelyuponthesacredprayingmats，withbootedfeet——
athingnotdonebyanyArab——wastoinflictpainuponmenwhohadnotoffendedusinanyway。SupposeapartyofarmedforeignersweretoenteravillagechurchinAmericaandbreakornamentsfromthealtarrailingsforcuriosities，andclimbupandwalkupontheBibleandthepulpitcushions？
However，thecasesaredifferent。Oneistheprofanationofatempleofourfaith——theotheronlytheprofanationofapaganone。
WedescendedtothePlainagain，andhaltedamomentatawell——ofAbraham\'stime，nodoubt。Itwasinadesertplace。Itwaswalledthreefeetabovegroundwithsquaredandheavyblocksofstone，afterthemannerofBiblepictures。Arounditsomecamelsstood，andothersknelt。Therewasagroupofsoberlittledonkeyswithnaked，duskychildrenclamberingaboutthem，orsittingastridetheirrumps，orpullingtheirtails。Tawny，black—eyed，barefootedmaids，arrayedinragsandadornedwithbrazenarmletsandpinchbeckear—rings，werepoisingwaterjarsupontheirheads，ordrawingwaterfromthewell。Aflockofsheepstoodby，waitingfortheshepherdstofillthehollowedstoneswithwater，sothattheymightdrink——stoneswhich，likethosethatwalledthewell，werewornsmoothanddeeplycreasedbythechafingchinsofahundredgenerationsofthirstyanimals。PicturesqueArabssatupontheground，ingroups，andsolemnlysmokedtheirlongstemmedchibouks。OtherArabswerefillingblackhog—skinswithwater——skinswhich，wellfilled，anddistendedwithwatertilltheshortlegsprojectedpainfullyoutoftheproperline，lookedlikethecorpsesofhogsbloatedbydrowning。HerewasagrandOrientalpicturewhichIhadworshipedathousandtimesinsoft，richsteelengravings！Butintheengra—vingtherewasnodesolation;nodirt;norags;nofleas;nouglyfeatures;nosoreeyes;nofeastingflies;nobesottedignoranceinthecountenances;norawplacesonthedonkeys\'backs;nodisagreeablejabberinginunknowntongues;nostenchofcamels;nosuggestionthatacoupleoftonsofpowderplacedunderthepartyandtouchedoffwouldheightentheeffectandgivetothesceneagenuineinterestandacharmwhichitwouldalwaysbepleasanttorecall，eventhoughamanlivedathousandyears。Orientalsceneslookbestinsteelengravings。IcannotbeimposeduponanymorebythatpictureoftheQueenofShebavisitingSolomon。Ishallsaytomyself，Youlookfine，Madambutyourfeetarenotcleanandyousmelllikeacamel。