Helefthiscarriageandwentintoit。Hewastheonlypersonthere，andsohehadplentyofroom，andthesituationbeingcentral，hecouldseeallthepreparationsgoingonaboutthefield。Byandbytherewasasoundofmusic，andsoontheEmperoroftheFrenchandtheEmperorofAustria，escortedbythefamousCentGardes，enteredtheenclosure。Theyseemednottoobservehim，butdirectly，inresponsetoasignfromthecommanderoftheguard，ayounglieutenantcametowardhimwithafileofhismenfollowing，halted，raisedhishand，andgavethemilitarysalute，andthensaidinalowvoicethathewassorrytohavetodisturbastrangerandagentleman，buttheplacewassacredtoroyalty。ThenthisNewJerseyphantomroseupandbowedandbeggedpardon，thenwiththeofficerbesidehim，thefileofmenmarchingbehindhim，andwitheverymarkofrespect，hewasescortedtohiscarriagebytheimperialCentGardes！Theofficersalutedagainandfellback，theNewJerseyspritebowedinreturnandhadpresenceofmindenoughtopretendthathehadsimplycalledonamatterofprivatebusinesswiththoseemperors，andsowavedthemanadieuanddrovefromthefield！
ImagineapoorFrenchmanignorantlyintrudinguponapublicrostrumsacredtosomesixpennydignitaryinAmerica。Thepolicewouldscarehimtodeathfirstwithastormoftheirelegantblasphemy，andthenpullhimtopiecesgettinghimawayfromthere。WearemeasurablysuperiortotheFrenchinsomethings，buttheyareimmeasurablyourbettersinothers。
EnoughofParisforthepresent。Wehavedoneourwholedutybyit。
WehaveseentheTuileries，theNapoleonColumn，theMadeleine，thatwonderofwondersthetombofNapoleon，allthegreatchurchesandmuseums，libraries，imperialpalaces，andsculptureandpicturegalleries，thePanthéon，JardindesPlantes，theopera，thecircus，thelegislativebody，thebilliardrooms，thebarbers，thegrisettes——
Ah，thegrisettes！Ihadalmostforgotten。Theyareanotherromanticfraud。Theywere（ifyouletthebooksoftraveltellit）alwayssobeautiful——soneatandtrim，sograceful——sonaiveandtrusting——sogentle，sowinning——sofaithfultotheirshopduties，soirresistibletobuyersintheirprattlingimportunity——sodevotedtotheirpoverty—strickenstudentsoftheLatinQuarter——solightheartedandhappyontheirSundaypicnicsinthesuburbs——andoh，socharmingly，sodelightfullyimmoral！
StuffIForthreeorfourdaysIwasconstantlysaying:
\"Quick，Ferguson！Isthatagrisette？\"
Andhealwayssaid，\"No。\"
HecomprehendedatlastthatIwantedtoseeagrisette。Thenheshowedmedozensofthem。TheywerelikenearlyalltheFrenchwomenIeversaw——homely。
Theyhadlargehands，largefeet，largemouths;theyhadpugnosesasageneralthing，andmoustachesthatnotevengoodbreedingcouldoverlook;
theycombedtheirhairstraightbackwithoutparting;theywereill—shaped，theywerenotwinning，theywerenotgraceful;Iknewbytheirlooksthattheyategarlicandonions;andlastlyandfinally，tomythinkingitwouldbebaseflatterytocallthemimmoral。
Arointthee，wench！IsorrowforthevagabondstudentoftheLatinQuarternow，evenmorethanformerlyIenviedhim。Thustopplestoearthanotheridolofmyinfancy。
Wehaveseeneverything，andtomorrowwegotoVersailles。WeshallseeParisonlyforalittlewhileaswecomebacktotakeupourlineofmarchfortheship，andsoImayaswellbidthebeautifulcityaregretfulfarewell。Weshalltravelmanythousandsofmilesafterweleavehereandvisitmanygreatcities，butweshallfindnonesoenchantingasthis。
SomeofourpartyhavegonetoEngland，intendingtotakearoundaboutcourseandrejointhevesselatLeghornorNaplesseveralweekshence。
WecameneargoingtoGeneva，buthaveconcludedtoreturntoMarseillesandgoupthroughItalyfromGenoa。
IwillconcludethischapterwitharemarkthatIamsincerelyproudtobeabletomake——andglad，aswell，thatmycomradescordiallyendorseit，towit:byfarthehandsomestwomenwehaveseeninFrancewerebornandrearedinAmerica。
Ifeelnowlikeamanwhohasredeemedafailingreputationandshedlusteruponadimmedescutcheonbyasinglejustdeeddoneattheeleventhhour。
Letthecurtainfall，toslowmusic。
Chapter16
Versailles！Itiswonderfullybeautiful！Yougazeandstareandtrytounderstandthatitisreal，thatitisontheearth，thatitisnottheGardenofEden——butyourbraingrowsgiddy，stupefiedbytheworldofbeautyaroundyou，andyouhalfbelieveyouarethedupeofanexquisitedream。Thescenethrillsonelikemilitarymusic！Anoblepalace，stretchingitsornamentedfront，blockuponblockaway，tillitseemedthatitwouldneverend;agrandpromenadebeforeit，whereonthearmiesofanempiremightparade;allaboutitrainbowsofflowers，andcolossalstatuesthatwerealmostnumberlessandyetseemedonlyscatteredovertheamplespace;
broadflightsofstonestepsleadingdownfromthepromenadetolowergroundsofthepark——stairwaysthatwholeregimentsmightstandtoarmsuponandhaveroomtospare;vastfountainswhosegreatbronzeeffigiesdischargedriversofsparklingwaterintotheairandmingledahundredcurvingjetstogetherinformsofmatchlessbeauty;widegrass—carpetedavenuesthatbranchedhitherandthitherineverydirectionandwanderedtoseeminglyinterminabledistances，walledallthewayoneithersidewithcompactranksofleafytreeswhosebranchesmetaboveandformedarchesasfaultlessandassymmetricalaseverwerecarvedinstone;andhereandtherewereglimpsesofsylvanlakeswithminiatureshipsglassedintheirsurfaces。
Andeverywhere——onthepalacesteps，andthegreatpromenade，aroundthefountains，amongthetrees，andfarunderthearchesoftheendlessavenues——hundredsandhundredsofpeopleingaycostumeswalkedorranordanced，andgavetothefairypicturethelifeandanimationwhichwasallofperfectionitcouldhavelacked。
Itwasworthapilgrimagetosee。Everythingisonsogiganticascale。
Nothingissmall——nothingischeap。Thestatuesarealllarge;thepalaceisgrand;theparkcoversafair—sizedcounty;theavenuesareinterminable。
AllthedistancesandallthedimensionsaboutVersaillesarevast。Iusedtothinkthepicturesexaggeratedthesedistancesandthesedimensionsbeyondallreason，andthattheymadeVersaillesmorebeautifulthanitwaspossibleforanyplaceintheworldtobe。Iknownowthatthepicturesnevercameuptothesubjectinanyrespect，andthatnopaintercouldrepresentVersaillesoncanvasasbeautifulasitisinreality。IusedtoabuseLouisXIVforspendingtwohundredmillionsofdollarsincreatingthismarvelousparkwhenbreadwassoscarcewithsomeofhissubjects，butIhaveforgivenhimnow。HetookatractoflandsixtymilesincircumferenceandsettoworktomakethisparkandbuildthispalaceandaroadtoitfromParis。Hekept36，000menemployeddailyonit，andthelaborwassounhealthythattheyusedtodieandbehauledoffbycartloadseverynight。Thewifeofanoblemanofthetimespeaksofthisasan\"inconvenience，\"butnaïvelyremarksthat\"itdoesnotseemworthyofattentioninthehappystateoftranquillitywenowenjoy。\"Ialwaysthoughtillofpeopleathomewhotrimmedtheirshrubberyintopyramidsandsquaresandspiresandallmannerofunnaturalshapes，andwhenIsawthesamethingbeingpracticedinthisgreatparkIbegantofeeldissatisfied。
ButIsoonsawtheideaofthethingandthewisdomofit。Theyseekthegeneraleffect。Wedistortadozensicklytreesintounaccustomedshapesinalittleyardnobiggerthanadiningroom，andthensurelytheylookabsurdenough。Butheretheytaketwohundredthousandtallforesttreesandsettheminadoublerow;allownosignofleaforbranchtogrowonthetrunklowerdownthansixfeetabovetheground;fromthatpointtheboughsbegintoproject，andverygraduallytheyextendoutwardfurtherandfurthertilltheymeetoverhead，andafaultlesstunneloffoliageisformed。Thearchismathematicallyprecise。Theeffectisthenveryfine。Theymaketreestakefiftydifferentshapes，andsothesequainteffectsareinfinitelyvariedandpicturesque。Thetreesinnotwoavenuesareshapedalike，andconsequentlytheeyeisnotfatiguedwithanythinginthenatureofmonotonousuniformity。Iwilldropthissubjectnow，leavingittootherstodeterminehowthesepeoplemanagetomakeendlessranksofloftyforesttreesgrowtojustacertainthicknessoftrunk（sayafootandtwo—thirds）;howtheymakethemspringtopreciselythesameheightformiles;howtheymakethemgrowsoclosetogether;howtheycompelonehugelimbtospringfromthesameidenticalspotoneachtreeandformthemainsweepofthearch;andhowallthesethingsarekeptexactlyinthesameconditionandinthesameexquisiteshapelinessandsymmetrymonthaftermonthandyearafteryear——forIhavetriedtoreasonouttheproblemandhavefailed。
WewalkedthroughthegreathallofsculptureandtheonehundredandfiftygalleriesofpaintingsinthepalaceofVersailles，andfeltthattobeinsuchaplacewasuselessunlessonehadawholeyearathisdisposal。
Thesepicturesareallbattlescenes，andonlyonesolitarylittlecanvasamongthemalltreatsofanythingbutgreatFrenchvictories。Wewandered，also，throughtheGrandTrianonandthePetitTrianon，thosemonumentsofroyalprodigality，andwithhistoriessomournful——filled，asitis，withsouvenirsofNapoleontheFirst，andthreedeadkingsandasmanyqueens。Inonesumptuousbedtheyhadallsleptinsuccession，butnooneoccupiesitnow。InalargediningroomstoodthetableatwhichLouisXIVandhismistressMadameMaintenon，andafterthemLouisXV，andPompadour，hadsatattheirmealsnakedandunattended——forthetablestooduponatrapdoor，whichdescendedwithittoregionsbelowwhenitwasnecessarytoreplenishitsdishes。InaroomofthePetitTrianonstoodthefurniture，justaspoorMarieAntoinetteleftitwhenthemobcameanddraggedherandtheKingtoParis，nevertoreturn。Nearathand，inthestables，wereprodigiouscarriagesthatshowednocolorbutgold——carriagesusedbyformerkingsofFranceonstateoccasions，andneverusednowsavewhenakinglyheadistobecrownedoranimperialinfantchristened。Andwiththemweresomecurioussleighs，whosebodieswereshapedlikelions，swans，tigers，etc。——vehiclesthathadoncebeenhandsomewithpictureddesignsandfineworkmanship，butweredustyanddecayingnow。Theyhadtheirhistory。WhenLouisXIVhadfinishedtheGrandTrianon，hetoldMaintenonhehadcreatedaparadiseforher，andaskedifshecouldthinkofanythingnowtowishfor。HesaidhewishedtheTrianontobeperfection——nothingless。Shesaidshecouldthinkofbutonething——itwassummer，anditwasbalmyFrance——yetshewouldlikewelltosleighrideintheleafyavenuesofVersailles！Thenextmorningfoundmilesandmilesofgrassyavenuesspreadthickwithsnowysaltandsugar，andaprocessionofthosequaintsleighswaitingtoreceivethechiefconcubineofthegaiestandmostunprincipledcourtthatFrancehaseverseen！
FromsumptuousVersailles，withitspalaces，itsstatues，itsgardens，anditsfountains，wejourneyedbacktoParisandsoughtitsantipodes——theFaubourgSt。Antoine。Little，narrowstreets;dirtychildrenblockadingthem;greasy，slovenlywomencapturingandspankingthem;filthydensonfirstfloors，withragstoresinthem（theheaviestbusinessintheFaubourgisthechiffonier\'s）;otherfilthydenswherewholesuitsofsecond—andthird—handclothingaresoldatpricesthatwouldruinanyproprietorwhodidnotstealhisstock;stillotherfilthydenswheretheysoldgroceries——soldthembythehalfpennyworth——fivedollarswouldbuythemanout，goodwillandall。UptheselittlecrookedstreetstheywillmurderamanforsevendollarsanddumpthebodyintheSeine。Andupsomeotherofthesestreets——mostofthem，Ishouldsay——livelorettes。
AllthroughthisFaubourgSt。Antoine，misery，poverty，vice，andcrimegohandinhand，andtheevidencesofitstareoneinthefacefromeveryside。Herethepeoplelivewhobegintherevolutions。Wheneverthereisanythingofthatkindtobedone，theyarealwaysready。TheytakeasmuchgenuinepleasureinbuildingabarricadeastheydoincuttingathroatorshovingafriendintotheSeine。Itisthesesavage—lookingruffianswhostormthesplendidhallsoftheTuileriesoccasionally，andswarmintoVersailleswhenakingistobecalledtoaccount。
Buttheywillbuildnomorebarricades;theywillbreaknomoresoldiers\'
headswithpavingstones。LouisNapoleonhastakencareofallthat。Heisannihilatingthecrookedstreetsandbuildingintheirsteadnobleboulevardsasstraightasanarrow——avenueswhichacannonballcouldtraversefromendtoendwithoutmeetinganobstructionmoreirresistiblethanthefleshandbonesofmen——boulevardswhosestatelyedificeswillneveraffordrefugesandplottingplacesforstarving，discontentedrevolutionbreeders。Fiveofthesegreatthoroughfaresradiatefromoneamplecenter——acenterwhichisexceedinglywelladaptedtotheaccommodationofheavyartillery。Themobsusedtoriotthere，buttheymustseekanotherrallyingplaceinfuture。
AndthisingeniousNapoleonpavesthestreetsofhisgreatcitieswithasmooth，compactcompositionofasphaltumandsand。Nomorebarricadesofflagstones——nomoreassaultinghismajesty\'stroopswithcobbles。I
cannotfeelfriendlytowardmyquondamfellowAmericanNapoleonIII，especiallyatthistime，*wheninfancyIseehiscredulousvictim，Maximilian，lyingstarkandstiffinMexico，andhismaniacwidowwatchingeagerlyfromherFrenchasylumfortheformthatwillnevercome——butIdoadmirehisnerve，hiscalmself—reliance，hisshrewdgoodsense。
*July，1867。
Chapter17
Wehadapleasantjourneyofitseawardagain。Wefoundthatforthethreepastnightsourshiphadbeeninastateofwar。ThefirstnightthesailorsofaBritishship，beinghappywithgrog，camedownonthepierandchallengedoursailorstoafreefight。Theyacceptedwithalacrity，repairedtothepier，andgained——theirshareofadrawnbattle。Severalbruisedandbloodymembersofbothpartieswerecarriedoffbythepoliceandimprisoneduntilthefollowingmorning。ThenextnighttheBritishboyscameagaintorenewthefight，butourmenhadhadstrictorderstoremainonboardandoutofsight。Theydidso，andthebesiegingpartygrewnoisyandmoreandmoreabusiveasthefactbecameapparent（tothem）
thatourmenwereafraidtocomeout。Theywentawayfinallywithaclosingburstofridiculeandoffensiveepithets。Thethirdnighttheycameagainandweremoreobstreperousthanever。Theyswaggeredupanddownthealmostdesertedpierandhurledcurses，obscenity，andstingingsarcasmsatourcrew。Itwasmorethanhumannaturecouldbear。Theexecutiveofficerorderedourmenashore——withinstructionsnottofight。TheychargedtheBritishandgainedabrilliantvictory。Iprobablywouldnothavementionedthiswarhaditendeddifferently。ButItraveltolearn，andIstillrememberthattheypicturenoFrenchdefeatsinthebattlegalleriesofVersailles。
Itwaslikehometoustosteponboardthecomfortableshipagainandsmokeandloungeaboutherbreezydecks。Andyetitwasnotaltogetherlikehome，either，becausesomanymembersofthefamilywereaway。Wemissedsomepleasantfaceswhichwewouldratherhavefoundatdinner，andatnightthereweregapsintheeuchrepartieswhichcouldnotbesatisfactorilyfilled。\"Moult\"wasinEngland，JackinSwitzerland，CharleyinSpain。
Blucherwasgone，nonecouldtellwhere。Butwewereatseaagain，andwehadthestarsandtheoceantolookat，andplentyofroomtomeditatein。
InduetimetheshoresofItalyweresighted，andaswestoodgazingfromthedecks，earlyinthebrightsummermorning，thestatelycityofGenoaroseupoutoftheseaandflungbackthesunlightfromherhundredpalaces。
Herewerestforthepresent——orrather，herewehavebeentryingtorest，forsomelittletime，butwerunabouttoomuchtoaccomplishagreatdealinthatline。
Iwouldliketoremainhere。Ihadrathernotgoanyfurther。TheremaybeprettierwomeninEurope，butIdoubtit。ThepopulationofGenoais120，000;two—thirdsofthesearewomen，Ithink，andatleasttwo—thirdsofthewomenarebeautiful。Theyareasdressyandastastefulandasgracefulastheycouldpossiblybewithoutbeingangels。However，angelsarenotverydressy，Ibelieve。Atleasttheangelsinpicturesarenot——theywearnothingbutwings。ButtheseGenoesewomendolooksocharming。Mostoftheyoungdemoisellesarerobedinacloudofwhitefromheadtofoot，thoughmanytrickthemselvesoutmoreelaborately。Nine—tenthsofthemwearnothingontheirheadsbutafilmysortofveil，whichfallsdowntheirbackslikeawhitemist。Theyareveryfair，andmanyofthemhaveblueeyes，butblackanddreamydarkbrownonesaremetwithoftenest。
TheladiesandgentlemenofGenoahaveapleasantfashionofpromenadinginalargeparkonthetopofahillinthecenterofthecity，fromsixtillnineintheevening，andtheneatingicesinaneighboringgardenanhourortwolonger。WewenttotheparkonSundayevening。Twothousandpersonswerepresent，chieflyyoungladiesandgentlemen。ThegentlemenweredressedintheverylatestParisfashions，andtherobesoftheladiesglintedamongthetreeslikesomanysnowflakes。Themultitudemovedroundandroundtheparkinagreatprocession。Thebandsplayed，andsodidthefountains;themoonandthegaslampslitupthescene，andaltogetheritwasabrilliantandananimatedpicture。Iscannedeveryfemalefacethatpassed，anditseemedtomethatallwerehandsome。Ineversawsuchafreshetoflovelinessbefore。Ididnotseehowamanofonlyordinarydecisionofcharactercouldmarryhere，becausebeforehecouldgethismindmadeuphewouldfallinlovewithsomebodyelse。
NeversmokeanyItaliantobacco。Neverdoitonanyaccount。Itmakesmeshuddertothinkwhatitmustbemadeof。Youcannotthrowanoldcigar\"stub\"downanywhere，butsomevagabondwillpounceuponitontheinstant。
Iliketosmokeagooddeal，butitwoundsmysensibilitiestoseeoneofthesestub—hunterswatchingmeoutofthecomersofhishungryeyesandcalculatinghowlongmycigarwillbelikelytolast。ItremindedmetoopainfullyofthatSanFranciscoundertakerwhousedtogotosickbedswithhiswatchinhishandandtimethecorpse。Oneofthesestub—huntersfollowedusallovertheparklastnight，andweneverhadasmokethatwasworthanything。Wewerealwaysmovedtoappeasehimwiththestubbeforethecigarwashalfgone，becausehelookedsoviciouslyanxious。Heregardedusashisownlegitimateprey，byrightofdiscovery，Ithink，becausehedroveoffseveralotherprofessionalswhowantedtotakestockinus。
Now，theysurelymustchewupthoseoldstubsanddryandsellthemforsmokingtobacco。Therefore，giveyourcustomtootherthanItalianbrandsofthearticle。
\"TheSuperb\"andthe\"CityofPalaces\"arenameswhichGenoahasheldforcenturies。Sheisfullofpalaces，certainly，andthepalacesaresumptuousinside，buttheyareveryrustywithoutandmakenopretensionstoarchitecturalmagnificence。\"GenoatheSuperb\"wouldbeafelicitoustitleifitreferredtothewomen。
Wehavevisitedseveralofthepalaces——immensethick—walledpiles，withgreatstonestaircases，tessellatedmarblepavementonthefloors（sometimestheymakeamosaicworkofintricatedesigns，wroughtinpebblesorlittlefragmentsofmarblelaidincement），andgrandsalonshungwithpicturesbyRubens，Guido，Titian，PaulVeronese，andsoon，andportraitsofheadsofthefamilyinplumedhelmetsandgallantcoatsofmail，andpatricianladiesinstunningcostumesofcenturiesago。But，ofcourse，thefolkswerealloutinthecountryforthesummer，andmightnothaveknownenoughtoaskustodinneriftheyhadbeenathome，andsoallthegrandemptysalons，withtheirresoundingpavements，theirgrimpicturesofdeadancestors，andtatteredbannerswiththedustofbygonecenturiesuponthemseemedtobroodsolemnlyofdeathandthegrave，andourspiritsebbedaway，andourcheerfulnesspassedfromus。Weneverwentuptotheeleventhstory。Wealwaysbegantosuspectghosts。Therewasalwaysanundertaker—lookingservantalong，too，whohandedusaprogram，pointedtothepicturethatbeganthelistofthesalonhewasin，andthenstoodstiffandstarkandunsmilinginhispetrifiedliverytillwewerereadytomoveontothenextchamber，whereuponhemarchedsadlyaheadandtookupanothermalignantlyrespectfulpositionasbefore。I
wastedsomuchtimeprayingthattheroofwouldfallinonthesedispiritingflunkiesthatIhadbutlittlelefttobestowuponpalaceandpictures。
Andbesides，asinParis，wehadaguide。Perditioncatchalltheguides。
ThisonesaidhewasthemostgiftedlinguistinGenoa，asfarasEnglishwasconcerned，andthatonlytwopersonsinthecitybesidehimselfcouldtalkthelanguageatall。HeshowedusthebirthplaceofChristopherColumbus，andafterwehadreflectedinsilentawebeforeitforfifteenminutes，hesaiditwasnotthebirthplaceofColumbus，butofColumbus\'grandmother！
WhenwedemandedanexplanationofhisconductheonlyshruggedhisshouldersandansweredinbarbarousItalian。Ishallspeakfurtherofthisguideinafuturechapter。Alltheinformationwegotoutofhimweshallbeabletocarryalongwithus，Ithink。
IhavenotbeentochurchsoofteninalongtimeasIhaveinthelastfewweeks。Thepeopleintheseoldlandsseemtomakechurchestheirspecialty。
EspeciallydoesthisseemtobethecasewiththecitizensofGenoa。I
thinkthereisachurcheverythreeorfourhundredyardsallovertown。
Thestreetsaresprinkledfromendtoendwithshovel—hatted，long—robed，well—fedpriests，andthechurchbellsbydozensarepealingallthedaylong，nearly。Everynowandthenonecomesacrossafriarofordersgray，withshavenhead，long，coarserobe，ropegirdleandbeads，andwithfeetcasedinsandalsorentirelybare。Theseworthiessufferinthefleshanddopenancealltheirlives，Isuppose，buttheylooklikeconsummatefamine—breeders。
Theyareallfatandserene。
TheoldCathedralofSanLorenzoisaboutasnotableabuildingaswehavefoundinGenoa。Itisvast，andhascolonnadesofnoblepillars，andagreatorgan，andthecustomarypompofgildedmoldings，pictures，frescoedceilings，andsoforth。Icannotdescribeit，ofcourse——itwouldrequireagoodmanypagestodothat。Butitisacuriousplace。Theysaidthathalfofit——fromthefrontdoorhalfwaydowntothealtar——wasaJewishsynagoguebeforetheSaviourwasborn，andthatnoalterationhadbeenmadeinitsincethattime。Wedoubtedthestatement，butdiditreluctantly。
Wewouldmuchratherhavebelievedit。Theplacelookedintooperfectrepairtobesoancient。
ThemainpointofinterestaboutthecathedralisthelittleChapelofSt。JohntheBaptist。Theyonlyallowwomentoenteritononedayintheyear，onaccountoftheanimositytheystillcherishagainstthesexbecauseofthemurderofthesainttogratifyacapriceofHerodias。Inthischapelisamarblechest，inwhich，theytoldus，weretheashesofSt。John;andarounditwaswoundachain，which，theysaid，hadconfinedhimwhenhewasinprison。Wedidnotdesiretodisbelievethesestatements，andyetwecouldnotfeelcertainthattheywerecorrect——partlybecausewecouldhavebrokenthatchain，andsocouldSt。John，andpartlybecausewehadseenSt。John\'sashesbefore，inanotherchurch。WecouldnotbringourselvestothinkSt。Johnhadtwosetsofashes。
TheyalsoshowedusaportraitoftheMadonnawhichwaspaintedbySt。
Luke，anditdidnotlookhalfasoldandsmokyassomeofthepicturesbyRubens。WecouldnothelpadmiringtheApostle\'smodestyinneveroncementioninginhiswritingsthathecouldpaint。
Butisn\'tthisrelicmatteralittleoverdone？Wefindapieceofthetruecrossineveryoldchurchwegointo，andsomeofthenailsthatheldittogether。Iwouldnotliketobepositive，butIthinkwehaveseenasmuchasakegofthesenails。Thenthereisthecrownofthorns;theyhavepartofoneinSainteChapelle，inParis，andpartofonealsoinNotreDame。AndasforbonesofSt。Denis，Ifeelcertainwehaveseenenoughofthemtoduplicatehimifnecessary。
Ionlymeanttowriteaboutthechurches，butIkeepwanderingfromthesubject。IcouldsaythattheChurchoftheAnnunciationisawildernessofbeautifulcolumns，ofstatues，gildedmoldings，andpicturesalmostcountless，butthatwouldgivenooneanentirelyperfectideaofthething，andsowhereistheuse？Onefamilybuiltthewholeedificeandhavegotmoneyleft。Thereiswherethemysterylies。Wehadanideaatfirstthatonlyamintcouldhavesurvivedtheexpense。
Thesepeoplehereliveintheheaviest，highest，broadest，darkest，solidesthousesonecanimagine。Eachonemight\"laughasiegetoscorn。\"
Ahundredfeetfrontandahundredhighisaboutthestyle，andyougoupthreeflightsofstairsbeforeyoubegintocomeuponsignsofoccupancy。
Everythingisstone，andstoneoftheheaviest——floors，stairways，mantels，benches——everything。Thewallsarefourtofivefeetthick。Thestreetsgenerallyarefourorfivetoeightfeetwideandascrookedasacorkscrew。
Yougoalongoneofthesegloomycracks，andlookupandbeholdtheskylikeamereribbonoflight，faraboveyourhead，wherethetopsofthetallhousesoneithersideofthestreetbendalmosttogether。Youfeelasifyouwereatthebottomofsometremendousabyss，withalltheworldfaraboveyou。Youwindinandoutandhereandthere，inthemostmysteriousway，andhavenomoreideaofthepointsofthecompassthanifyouwereablindman。Youcanneverpersuadeyourselfthattheseareactuallystreets，andthefrowning，dingy，monstroushousesdwellings，tillyouseeoneofthesebeautiful，prettilydressedwomenemergefromthem——seeheremergefromadark，dreary—lookingdenthatlooksdungeonallover，fromthegroundawayhalfwayupt6heaven。Andthenyouwonderthatsuchacharmingmothcouldcomefromsuchaforbiddingshellasthat。Thestreetsarewiselymadenarrowandthehousesheavyandthickandstony，inorderthatthepeoplemaybecoolinthisroastingclimate。Andtheyarecool，andstayso。AndwhileIthinkofit——themenwearhatsandhaveverydarkcomplexions，butthewomenwearnoheadgearbutaflimsyveillikeagossamer\'sweb，andyetareexceedinglyfairasageneralthing。Singular，isn\'tit？
ThehugepalacesofGenoaareeachsupposedtobeoccupiedbyonefamily，buttheycouldaccommodateahundred，Ishouldthink。TheyarerelicsofthegrandeurofGenoa\'spalmydays——thedayswhenshewasagreatcommercialandmaritimepowerseveralcenturiesago。Thesehouses，solidmarblepalacesthoughtheybe，areinmanycasesofadullpinkishcolor，outside，andfrompavementtoeavesarepicturedwithGenoesebattlescenes，withmonstrousJupitersandCupids，andwithfamiliarillustrationsfromGrecianmythology。
Wherethepainthasyieldedtoageandexposureandispeelingoffinflakesandpatches，theeffectisnothappy。AnoselessCupidoraJupiterwithaneyeoutoraVenuswithaflyblisteronherbreastarenotattractivefeaturesinapicture。Someofthesepaintedwallsremindedmesomewhatofthetallvan，plasteredwithfancifulbillsandposters，thatfollowsthebandwagonofacircusaboutacountryvillage。IhavenotreadorheardthattheoutsidesofthehousesofanyotherEuropeancityarefrescoedinthisway。
IcannotconceiveofsuchathingasGenoainruins。Suchmassivearches，suchponderoussubstructionsassupportthesetoweringbroad—wingededifices，wehaveseldomseenbefore;andsurelythegreatblocksofstoneofwhichtheseedificesarebuiltcanneverdecay;wallsthatareasthickasanordinaryAmericandoorwayishighcannotcrumble。
TherepublicsofGenoaandPisawereverypowerfulintheMiddleAges。
TheirshipsfilledtheMediterranean，andtheycarriedonanextensivecommercewithConstantinopleandSyria。TheirwarehouseswerethegreatdistributingdepotsfromwhencethecostlymerchandiseoftheEastwassentabroadoverEurope。Theywerewarlikelittlenationsanddefied，inthosedays，governmentsthatovershadowthemnowasmountainsovershadowmolehills。TheSaracenscapturedandpillagedGenoaninehundredyearsago，butduringthefollowingcenturyGenoaandPisaenteredintoanoffensiveanddefensiveallianceandbesiegedtheSaracencoloniesinSardiniaandtheBalearicIsleswithanobstinacythatmaintaineditspristinevigorandheldtoitspurposeforfortylongyears。Theywerevictoriousatlastanddividedtheirconquestsequablyamongtheirgreatpatricianfamilies。
DescendantsofsomeofthoseproudfamiliesstillinhabitthepalacesofGenoa，andtraceintheirownfeaturesaresemblancetothegrimknightswhoseportraitshangintheirstatelyhalls，andtopicturedbeautieswithpoutinglipsandmerryeyeswhoseoriginalshavebeendustandashesformanyadeadandforgottencentury。
ThehotelweliveinbelongedtooneofthosegreatordersofknightsoftheCrossinthetimesoftheCrusades，anditsmailedsentinelsoncekeptwatchandwardinitsmassiveturretsandwoketheechoesofthesehallsandcorridorswiththeirironheels。
ButGenoa\'sgreatnesshasdegeneratedintoanunostentatiouscommerceinvelvetsandsilverfilagreework。TheysaythateachEuropeantownhasitsspecialty。ThesefilagreethingsareGenoa\'sspecialty。Hersmithstakesilveringotsandworkthemupintoallmannerofgracefulandbeautifulforms。Theymakebunchesofflowers，fromflakesandwiresofsilver，thatcounterfeitthedelicatecreationsthefrostweavesuponawindowpane;
andwewereshownaminiaturesilvertemplewhoseflutedcolumns，whoseCorinthiancapitalsandrichentablatures，whosespire，statues，bells，andornatelavishnessofsculpturewerewroughtinpolishedsilver，andwithsuchmatchlessartthateverydetailwasafascinatingstudyandthefinishededificeawonderofbeauty。
Wearereadytomoveagain，thoughwearenotreallytiredyetofthenarrowpassagesofthisoldmarblecave。Caveisagoodword——whenspeakingofGenoaunderthestars。Whenwehavebeenprowlingatmidnightthroughthegloomycrevicestheycallstreets，wherenofootfallsbutourswereechoing，whereonlyourselveswereabroad，andlightsappearedonlyatlongintervalsandatadistance，andmysteriouslydisappearedagain，andthehousesatourelbowsseemedtostretchupwardfartherthanevertowardtheheavens，thememoryofacaveIusedtoknowathomewasalwaysinmymind，withitsloftypassages，itssilenceandsolitude，itsshroudinggloom，itssepulchralechoes，itsflittinglights，andmorethanall，itssuddenrevelationsofbranchingcrevicesandcorridorswhereweleastexpectedthem。