Thisletterisfartoolong,buttopassoverAsakusaanditsnoveltieswhentheimpressionofthemisfreshwouldbetoomitoneofthemostinterestingsightsinJapan。OnthewaybackwepassedredmailcartslikethoseinLondon,asquadronofcavalryinEuropeanuniformsandwithEuropeansaddles,andthecarriageoftheMinisterofMarine,anEnglishbroughamwithapairofhorsesinEnglishharness,andanescortofsixtroopers——apainfulprecautionadoptedsincethepoliticalassassinationofOkubo,theHomeMinister,threeweeksago。Sotheoldandthenewinthisgreatcitycontrastwithandjostleeachother。TheMikadoandhisministers,navalandmilitaryofficersandmen,thewholeofthecivilofficialsandthepolice,wearEuropeanclothes,aswellasanumberofdissipated-lookingyoungmenwhoaspiretorepresent“youngJapan。“CarriagesandhousesinEnglishstyle,withcarpets,chairs,andtables,arebecomingincreasinglynumerous,andthebadtastewhichregulatesthepurchaseofforeignfurnishingsisasmarkedasthegoodtastewhicheverywherepresidesovertheadornmentofthehousesinpurelyJapanesestyle。
Happilytheseexpensiveandunbecominginnovationshavescarcelyaffectedfemaledress,andsomeladieswhoadoptedourfashionshavegiventhemupbecauseoftheirdiscomfortandmanifolddifficultiesandcomplications。
TheEmpressonStateoccasionsappearsinscarletsatinhakama,andflowingrobes,andsheandtheCourtladiesinvariablywearthenationalcostume。IhaveonlyseentwoladiesinEuropeandress;
andthiswasatadinner-partyhere,andtheywerethewivesofMr。
Mori,thego-aheadVice-MinisterforForeignAffairs,andoftheJapaneseConsulatHongKong;andbothbylongresidenceabroadhavelearnedtowearitwithease。ThewifeofSaigo,theMinisterofEducation,calledonedayinanexquisiteJapanesedressofdove-colouredsilkcrepe,withapalepinkunder-dressofthesamematerial,whichshowedalittleattheneckandsleeves。Hergirdlewasofrichdove-colouredsilk,withaghostofapalepinkblossomhoveringuponithereandthere。Shehadnofrillsorfripperiesofanydescription,orornaments,exceptasinglepininherchignon,and,withasweetandcharmingface,shelookedasgracefulanddignifiedinherJapanesecostumeasshewouldhavelookedexactlythereverseinours。Theircostumehasonestrikingadvantageoverours。AwomanisperfectlyCLOTHEDifshehasonegarmentandagirdleon,andperfectlyDRESSEDifshehastwo。