Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第6章

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第6章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  Thisletterisfartoolong,buttopassoverAsakusaanditsnoveltieswhentheimpressionofthemisfreshwouldbetoomitoneofthemostinterestingsightsinJapan。OnthewaybackwepassedredmailcartslikethoseinLondon,asquadronofcavalryinEuropeanuniformsandwithEuropeansaddles,andthecarriageoftheMinisterofMarine,anEnglishbroughamwithapairofhorsesinEnglishharness,andanescortofsixtroopers——apainfulprecautionadoptedsincethepoliticalassassinationofOkubo,theHomeMinister,threeweeksago。Sotheoldandthenewinthisgreatcitycontrastwithandjostleeachother。TheMikadoandhisministers,navalandmilitaryofficersandmen,thewholeofthecivilofficialsandthepolice,wearEuropeanclothes,aswellasanumberofdissipated-lookingyoungmenwhoaspiretorepresent“youngJapan。“CarriagesandhousesinEnglishstyle,withcarpets,chairs,andtables,arebecomingincreasinglynumerous,andthebadtastewhichregulatesthepurchaseofforeignfurnishingsisasmarkedasthegoodtastewhicheverywherepresidesovertheadornmentofthehousesinpurelyJapanesestyle。

  Happilytheseexpensiveandunbecominginnovationshavescarcelyaffectedfemaledress,andsomeladieswhoadoptedourfashionshavegiventhemupbecauseoftheirdiscomfortandmanifolddifficultiesandcomplications。

  TheEmpressonStateoccasionsappearsinscarletsatinhakama,andflowingrobes,andsheandtheCourtladiesinvariablywearthenationalcostume。IhaveonlyseentwoladiesinEuropeandress;

  andthiswasatadinner-partyhere,andtheywerethewivesofMr。

  Mori,thego-aheadVice-MinisterforForeignAffairs,andoftheJapaneseConsulatHongKong;andbothbylongresidenceabroadhavelearnedtowearitwithease。ThewifeofSaigo,theMinisterofEducation,calledonedayinanexquisiteJapanesedressofdove-colouredsilkcrepe,withapalepinkunder-dressofthesamematerial,whichshowedalittleattheneckandsleeves。Hergirdlewasofrichdove-colouredsilk,withaghostofapalepinkblossomhoveringuponithereandthere。Shehadnofrillsorfripperiesofanydescription,orornaments,exceptasinglepininherchignon,and,withasweetandcharmingface,shelookedasgracefulanddignifiedinherJapanesecostumeasshewouldhavelookedexactlythereverseinours。Theircostumehasonestrikingadvantageoverours。AwomanisperfectlyCLOTHEDifshehasonegarmentandagirdleon,andperfectlyDRESSEDifshehastwo。

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