Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第5章

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第5章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  Thetimbersandsupportsaresolidandofgreatsize,but,incommonwithallJapanesetemples,whetherBuddhistorShinto,theedificeisentirelyofwood。Abroadflightofnarrow,steep,brass-boundstepsleaduptotheporch,whichisformedbyanumberofcircularpillarssupportingaveryloftyroof,fromwhichpaperlanternstenfeetlongarehanging。Agalleryrunsfromthisroundthetemple,undercoveroftheeaves。Thereisanoutertemple,unmatted,andaninneronebehindagrating,intowhichthosewhochoosetopayfortheprivilegeofprayingincomparativeprivacy,orofhavingprayerssaidforthembythepriests,canpass。

  Intheoutertemplethenoise,confusion,andperpetualmotion,arebewildering。Crowdsonclatteringclogspassinandout;pigeons,ofwhichhundredsliveintheporch,flyoveryourhead,andthewhirringoftheirwingsmingleswiththetinklingofbells,thebeatingofdrumsandgongs,thehigh-pitcheddroneofthepriests,thelowmurmurofprayers,theripplinglaughterofgirls,theharshvoicesofmen,andthegeneralbuzzofamultitude。Thereisverymuchthatishighlygrotesqueatfirstsight。Mensquatonthefloorsellingamulets,rosaries,printedprayers,incensesticks,andotherwares。Exvotosofallkindshangonthewallandonthegreatroundpillars。ManyofthesearerudeJapanesepictures。Thesubjectofoneistheblowing-upofasteamerintheSumidagawawiththelossof100lives,whenthedonorwassavedbythegraceofKwan-non。Numbersofmemorialsarefrompeoplewhoofferedupprayershere,andhavebeenrestoredtohealthorwealth。Othersarefromjunkmenwhoseliveshavebeeninperil。

  Therearescoresofmen’squeuesandafewdustybraidsofwomen’shairofferedonaccountofvowsorprayers,usuallyforsickrelatives,andamongthemall,onthelefthand,arealargemirrorinagaudilygiltframeandaframedpictureoftheP。M。S。China!

  Abovethisincongruouscollectionaresplendidwoodcarvingsandfrescoesofangels,amongwhichthepigeonsfindahomefreefrommolestation。

  Neartheentrancethereisasuperbincense-burnerinthemostmassivestyleoftheolderbronzes,withamythicalbeastrampantuponit,andinhighreliefroundittheJapanesesignsofthezodiac——therat,ox,tiger,rabbit,dragon,serpent,horse,goat,monkey,cock,dog,andhog。Cloudsofincenserisecontinuallyfromtheperforationsroundtheedge,andablack-toothedwomanwhokeepsitburningisperpetuallyreceivingsmallcoinsfromtheworshippers,whothenpassontothefrontofthealtartopray。

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