“Silk,“saidanoldwriter,“doesnotimmediatelycomehitherfromtheWormthatspinsandmakesit,butpassesmanyaClimate,travelsmanyaDesert,employsmanyaHand,loadsmanyaCamel,andfreightsmanyaShipbeforeitarriveshere;andwhenatlastitcomes,itisinreturnforothermanufactures,orinexchangeforourmoney。“[2]ItissaidthatthefirstpairofsilkstockingswasbroughtintoEnglandfromSpain,andpresentedtoHenryVIII。Hehadbeforewornhoseofcloth。InthethirdyearofQueenElizabeth’sreign,hertiringwoman,Mrs。Montagu,presentedherwithapairofblacksilkstockingsasaNewYear’sgift;whereuponherMajestyaskedifshecouldhaveanymore,inwhichcaseshewouldwearnomoreclothstockings。WhenJamesVI。ofScotlandreceivedtheambassadorssenttocongratulatehimuponhisaccessiontothethroneofGreatBritain,heaskedoneofhislordstolendhimhispairofsilkenhose,thathe“mightnotappearascrubbeforestrangers。“FromthesecircumstancesitwillbeobservedhowrarethewearingofsilkwasinEngland。
Shortlyafterbecomingking,JamesI。endeavouredtoestablishthesilkmanufactureinEngland,ashadalreadybeensuccessfullydoneinFrance。Hegaveeveryencouragementtothebreedingofsilkworms。HesentcircularletterstoallthecountiesofEngland,stronglyrecommendingtheinhabitantstoplantmulberrytrees。Thetreeswereplantedinmanyplaces,buttheleavesdidnotripeninsufficienttimeforthesustenanceofthesilkworms。
ThesameattemptwasmadeatInneshannon,nearBandon,inIreland,bytheHugnenotrefugees,butprovedabortive。Theclimateprovedtoocoldordampfortherearingofsilkwormswithadvantage。Allthatremainsis“TheMulberryField,“whichstillretainsitsname。NeverthelesstheHuguenotssuccessfullyestablishedthesilkmanufactureatLondonandDublin,obtainingthespunsilkfromabroad。
Downtothebeginningoflastcentury,theItaliansweretheprincipalproducersoforganzineorthrownsilk;andforalongtimetheysucceededinkeepingtheirartasecret。Althoughthesilkmanufacture,aswehaveseen,wasintroducedintothiscountrybytheHuguenotartizans,thepriceofthrownsilkwassogreatthatitinterferedveryconsiderablywithitsprogress。
OrganzinewasprincipallymadewithinthedominionsofSavoy,bymeansofalargeandcuriousengine,thelikeofwhichdidnotexistelsewhere。TheItalians,bythemostseverelaws,longpreservedthemysteryoftheinvention。Thepunishmentprescribedbyoneoftheirlawstobeinflicteduponanyonewhodiscoveredthesecret,orattemptedtocarryitoutoftheSardiniandominions,wasdeath,withtheforfeitureofallthegoodsthedelinquentpossessed;andtheculpritwas“tobeafterwardspaintedontheoutsideoftheprisonwalls,hangingtothegallowsbyonefoot,withaninscriptiondenotingthenameandcrimeoftheperson,theretobecontinuedforaperpetualmarkofinfamy。“[3]