26th——Thedayrosesplendidlyclear。ThevolcanoofOrsonowasspoutingoutvolumesofsmoke。Thismostbeautifulmountain,formedlikeaperfectcone,andwhitewithsnow,standsoutinfrontoftheCordillera。Anothergreatvolcano,withasaddle-shapedsummit,alsoemittedfromitsimmensecraterlittlejetsofsteam。Subsequentlywesawthelofty-peakedCorcovado——welldeservingthenameof“elfamosoCorcovado。”Thuswebeheld,fromonepointofview,threegreatactivevolcanoes,eachaboutseventhousandfeethigh。Inadditiontothis,fartothesouth,therewereotherloftyconescoveredwithsnow,which,althoughnotknowntobeactive,mustbeintheiroriginvolcanic。ThelineoftheAndesisnot,inthisneighbourhood,nearlysoelevatedasinChile;neitherdoesitappeartoformsoperfectabarrierbetweentheregionsoftheearth。Thisgreatrange,althoughrunninginastraightnorthandsouthline,owingtoanopticaldeception,alwaysappearedmoreorlesscurved;forthelinesdrawnfromeachpeaktothebeholder’seye,necessarilyconvergedliketheradiiofasemicircle,andasitwasnotpossibleowingtotheclearnessoftheatmosphereandtheabsenceofallintermediateobjectstojudgehowfardistantthefarthestpeakswereoff,theyappearedtostandinaflattishsemicircle。
Landingatmidday,wesawafamilyofpureIndianextraction。ThefatherwassingularlylikeYorkMinster;andsomeoftheyoungerboys,withtheirruddycomplexions,mighthavebeenmistakenforPampasIndians。EverythingIhaveseen,convincesmeofthecloseconnexionofthedifferentAmericantribes,whoneverthelessspeakdistinctlanguages。ThispartycouldmusterbutlittleSpanish,andtalkedtoeachotherintheirowntongue。Itisapleasantthingtoseetheaboriginesadvancedtothesamedegreeofcivilization,howeverlowthatmaybe,whichtheirwhiteconquerorshaveattained。MoretothesouthwesawmanypureIndians:indeed,alltheinhabitantsofsomeoftheisletsretaintheirIndiansurnames。Inthecensusof1832,therewereinChiloeanditsdependenciesforty-twothousandsouls;thegreaternumberoftheseappeartobeofmixedblood。EleventhousandretaintheirIndiansurnames,butitisprobablethatnotnearlyalloftheseareofapurebreed。Theirmanneroflifeisthesamewiththatoftheotherpoorinhabitants,andtheyareallChristians;butitissaidthattheyyetretainsomestrangesuperstitiousceremonies,andthattheypretendtoholdcommunicationwiththedevilincertaincaves。Formerly,everyoneconvictedofthisoffencewassenttotheInquisitionatLima。ManyoftheinhabitantswhoarenotincludedintheeleventhousandwithIndiansurnames,cannotbedistinguishedbytheirappearancefromIndians。Gomez,thegovernorofLemuy,isdescendedfromnoblemenofSpainonbothsides;
butbyconstantintermarriageswiththenativesthepresentmanisanIndian。
OntheotherhandthegovernorofQuinchaoboastsmuchofhispurelykeptSpanishblood。
Wereachedatnightabeautifullittlecove,northoftheislandofCaucahue。Thepeopleherecomplainedofwantofland。Thisispartlyowingtotheirownnegligenceinnotclearingthewoods,andpartlytorestrictionsbythegovernment,whichmakesitnecessary,beforebuyingeversosmallapiece,topaytwoshillingstothesurveyorformeasuringeachquadra150yardssquare,togetherwithwhateverpricehefixesforthevalueoftheland。Afterhisvaluationthelandmustbeputupthreetimestoauction,andifnoonebidsmore,thepurchasercanhaveitatthatrate。