thenslippingoffoverthecrupper,hecaughtholdofthetail,andasoftenasthehorseturnedroundthemanfrighteneditbackbysplashingwaterinitsface。Assoonasthehorsetouchedthebottomontheotherside,themanpulledhimselfon,andwasfirmlyseated,bridleinhand,beforethehorsegainedthebank。Anakedmanonanakedhorseisafinespectacle;Ihadnoideahowwellthetwoanimalssuitedeachother。Thetailofahorseisaveryusefulappendage;Ihavepassedariverinaboatwithfourpeopleinit,whichwasferriedacrossinthesamewayastheGaucho。Ifamanandhorsehavetocrossabroadriver,thebestplanisforthemantocatchholdofthepommelormane,andhelphimselfwiththeotherarm。
WesleptandstayedthefollowingdayatthepostofCufre。Intheeveningthepostmanorletter-carrierarrived。Hewasadayafterhistime,owingtotheRioRozariobeingflooded。Itwouldnot,however,beofmuchconsequence;
for,althoughhehadpassedthroughsomeoftheprincipaltownsinBandaOriental,hisluggageconsistedoftwoletters!Theviewfromthehousewaspleasing;anundulatinggreensurface,withdistantglimpsesofthePlata。IfindthatIlookatthisprovincewithverydifferenteyesfromwhatIdiduponmyfirstarrival。IrecollectIthenthoughtitsingularlylevel;butnow,aftergallopingoverthePampas,myonlysurpriseis,whatcouldhaveinducedmeevertocallitlevel。Thecountryisaseriesofundulations,inthemselvesperhapsnotabsolutelygreat,but,ascomparedtotheplainsofSt。Fe,realmountains。Fromtheseinequalitiesthereisanabundanceofsmallrivulets,andtheturfisgreenandluxuriant。
November17th——WecrossedtheRozario,whichwasdeepandrapid,andpassingthevillageofColla,arrivedatmiddayatColoniadelSacramiento。
Thedistanceistwentyleagues,throughacountrycoveredwithfinegrass,butpoorlystockedwithcattleorinhabitants。IwasinvitedtosleepatColonia,andtoaccompanyonthefollowingdayagentlemantohisestancia,wherethereweresomelimestonerocks。ThetownisbuiltonastonypromontorysomethinginthesamemannerasatMonteVideo。Itisstronglyfortified,butbothfortificationsandtownsufferedmuchintheBrazilianwar。Itisveryancient;andtheirregularityofthestreets,andthesurroundinggrovesofoldorangeandpeachtrees,gaveitaprettyappearance。Thechurchisacuriousruin;itwasusedasapowder-magazine,andwasstruckbylightninginoneofthetenthousandthunder-stormsoftheRioPlata。