Insignificantasthisstreamis,theJesuitFalconer,whoseinformationisgenerallysoverycorrect,figuresitasaconsiderableriver,risingatthefootoftheCordillera。Withrespecttoitssource,IdonotdoubtthatthisisthecasefortheGauchosassuredme,thatinthemiddleofthedrysummer,thisstream,atthesametimewiththeColoradohasperiodicalfloods;whichcanonlyoriginateinthesnowmeltingontheAndes。ItisextremelyimprobablethatastreamsosmallastheSaucethenwas,shouldtraversetheentirewidthofthecontinent;andindeed,ifitweretheresidueofalargeriver,itswaters,asinotherascertainedcases,wouldbesaline。DuringthewinterwemustlooktothespringsroundtheSierraVentanaasthesourceofitspureandlimpidstream。IsuspecttheplainsofPatagonialikethoseofAustralia,aretraversedbymanywater-courseswhichonlyperformtheirproperpartsatcertainperiods。ProbablythisisthecasewiththewaterwhichflowsintotheheadofPortDesire,andlikewisewiththeRioChupat,onthebanksofwhichmassesofhighlycellularscoriaewerefoundbytheofficersemployedinthesurvey。
Asitwasearlyintheafternoonwhenwearrived,wetookfreshhorses,andasoldierforaguide,andstartedfortheSierradelaVentana。ThismountainisvisiblefromtheanchorageatBahiaBlanca;andCapt。FitzRoycalculatesitsheighttobe3340feet——analtitudeveryremarkableonthiseasternsideofthecontinent。Iamnotawarethatanyforeigner,previoustomyvisit,hadascendedthismountain;andindeedveryfewofthesoldiersatBahiaBlancaknewanythingaboutit。Henceweheardofbedsofcoal,ofgoldandsilver,ofcaves,andofforests,allofwhichinflamedmycuriosity,onlytodisappointit。Thedistancefromthepostawasaboutsixleaguesoveralevelplainofthesamecharacterasbefore。
Theridewas,however,interesting,asthemountainbegantoshowitstrueform。Whenwereachedthefootofthemainridge,wehadmuchdifficultyinfindinganywater,andwethoughtweshouldhavebeenobligedtohavepassedthenightwithoutany。Atlastwediscoveredsomebylookingclosetothemountain,foratthedistanceevenofafewhundredyardsthestreamletswereburiedandentirelylostinthefriablecalcareousstoneandloosedetritus。IdonotthinkNatureevermadeamoresolitary,desolatepileofrock;——itwelldeservesitsnameof_Hurtado_,orseparated。Themountainissteep,extremelyrugged,andbroken,andsoentirelydestituteoftrees,andevenbushes,thatweactuallycouldnotmakeaskewertostretchoutourmeatoverthefireofthistle-stalks。[1]Thestrangeaspectofthismountainiscontrastedbythesea-likeplain,whichnotonlyabutsagainstitssteepsides,butlikewiseseparatestheparallelranges。Theuniformityofthecolouringgivesanextremequietnesstotheview,——thewhitishgreyofthequartzrock,andthelightbrownofthewitheredgrassoftheplain,beingunrelievedbyanybrightertint。Fromcustom,oneexpectstoseeintheneighbourhoodofaloftyandboldmountain,abrokencountrystrewedoverwithhugefragments。Herenatureshowsthatthelastmovementbeforethebedoftheseaischangedintodrylandmaysometimesbeoneoftranquillity。UnderthesecircumstancesIwascurioustoobservehowfarfromtheparentrockanypebblescouldbefound。OntheshoresofBahiaBlanca,andnearthesettlement,thereweresomeofquartz,whichcertainlymusthavecomefromthissource:thedistanceisforty-fivemiles。
Thedew,whichintheearlypartofthenightwettedthesaddle-clothsunderwhichweslept,wasinthemorningfrozen。Theplain,thoughappearinghorizontal,hadinsensiblyslopeduptoaheightofbetween800and900
feetabovethesea。Inthemorning9thofSeptembertheguidetoldmetoascendthenearestridge,whichhethoughtwouldleadmetothefourpeaksthatcrownthesummit。Theclimbingupsuchroughrockswasveryfatiguing;thesidesweresoindented,thatwhatwasgainedinonefiveminuteswasoftenlostinthenext。Atlast,whenIreachedtheridge,mydisappointmentwasextremeinfindingaprecipitousvalleyasdeepastheplain,whichcutthechaintransverselyintwo,andseparatedmefromthefourpoints。Thisvalleyisverynarrow,butflat-bottomed,anditformsafinehorse-passfortheIndians,asitconnectstheplainsonthenorthernandsouthernsidesoftherange。Havingdescended,andwhilecrossingit,Isawtwohorsesgrazing:Iimmediatelyhidmyselfinthelonggrass,andbegantoreconnoitre;butasIcouldseenosignsofIndiansIproceededcautiouslyonmysecondascent。Itwaslateintheday,andthispartofthemountain,liketheother,wassteepandrugged。Iwasonthetopofthesecondpeakbytwoo’clock,butgottherewithextremedifficulty;everytwentyyardsIhadthecrampintheupperpartofboththighs,sothatIwasafraidIshouldnothavebeenabletohavegotdownagain。Itwasalsonecessarytoreturnbyanotherroad,asitwasoutofthequestiontopassoverthesaddle-back。Iwasthereforeobligedtogiveupthetwohigherpeaks。Theiraltitudewasbutlittlegreater,andeverypurposeofgeologyhadbeenanswered;sothattheattemptwasnotworththehazardofanyfurtherexertion。Ipresumethecauseofthecrampwasthegreatchangeinthekindofmuscularaction,fromthatofhardridingtothatofstillharderclimbing。Itisalessonworth。remembering,asinsomecasesitmightcausemuchdifficulty。