PassedthroughPennoworPenhow，asmallvillage。Thesceneryintheneighbourhoodofthisplaceishighlyinteresting。Tothenorth—westatsomedistanceisMynyddTurvey，asharppointedbluemountain。Tothesouth—east，ontheright，muchnearer，aretwobeautifulgreenhills，thelowestprettilywooded，andhavingitstopafairwhitemansioncalledPenhowCastle，whichbelongstoafamilyofthenameofCave。ThencetoLlanvaches，aprettylittlevillage。WhenIwasaboutthemiddleofthisplaceIheardanoddsound，somethinglikeanoteofrecognition，whichattractedmyattentiontoanobjectveryneartome，fromwhichitseemedtoproceed，andwhichwascomingfromthedirectioninwhichIwasgoing。Itwasthefigureseeminglyofafemale，wrappedinacoarsebluecloak，thefeetbareandthelegsbarealsonearlyuptotheknee，bothterriblysplashedwiththeslushoftheroad。
Theheadwassurmountedbyakindofhood，whichjustpermittedmetoseecoarseredhair，abroadface，greyeyes，asnubbednose，blubberlipsandgreatwhiteteeth—theeyeswerestaringintentlyatme。Istoppedandstaredtoo，andatlastthoughtIrecognisedthefeaturesoftheuncouthgirlIhadseenonthegreennearChesterwiththeIrishtinkerTourloughandhiswife。
\"Dearme！\"saidI，\"didInotseeyounearChesterlastsummer？\"
\"Tobesureyedid；andyeweregoingtopassmewithoutawordofnoticeorkindnesshadInotgivenyeabitofahail。\"
\"Well，\"saidI，\"Ibegyourpardon。Howisitallwidye？\"
\"Quitewell。Howisitwidyerehanner？’
\"Tolerably。Wheredoyoucomefrom？\"
\"FromChepstow，yerehanner。\"
\"Andwhereareyougoingto？\"
\"ToNewport，yerehanner。\"
\"AndIcomefromNewport，andamgoingtoChepstow。Where’sTourloughandhiswife？\"
\"AtCardiff，yerehanner；Ishalljointhemagainto—morrow。\"
\"Haveyoubeenlongawayfromthem？\"
\"Aboutaweek，yerehanner。\"
\"Andwhathaveyoubeendoing？\"
\"Sellingmyneedles，yerehanner。\"
\"Oh！yousellneedles。Well，Iamgladtohavemetyou。Letmesee。There’sanicelittleinnontheright：won’tyoucomeinandhavesomerefreshment？\"
\"Thankyerehanner；Ihavenoobjectiontotakeaglasswidanoldfriend。\"
\"Well，then，comein；youmustbetired，andIshallbegladtohavesomeconversationwithyou。\"
Wewentintotheinn—alittletidyplace。Onmycalling，arespectable—lookingoldmanmadehisappearancebehindabar。
Afterservingmycompanionwithaglassofpeppermint，whichshesaidshepreferredtoanythingelse，andmewithaglassofale，bothofwhichIpaidfor，heretired，andwesatdownontwooldchairsbeneathawindowinfrontofthebar。
\"Well，\"saidI，\"IsupposeyouhaveIrish：here’sslainte—\"
\"Slainteyuitashaoi，\"saidthegirl，tastingherpeppermint。
\"Well：howdoyoulikeit？’
\"It’sveryniceindeed。\"
\"That’smorethanIcansayoftheale，which，likeallthealeintheseparts，isbitter。Well，whatpartofIrelanddoyoucomefrom？\"
\"Fromnopartatall。IneverwasinIrelandinmylife。IamfromScotlandRoad，Manchester。\"
\"Why，IthoughtyouwereIrish？\"
\"AndsoIam；andallthemorefrombeingbornwhereIwas。
There’snotsuchaplaceforIrishinalltheworldasScotlandRoad。\"
\"WereyourfatherandmotherfromIreland？\"
\"MymotherwasfromIreland：myfatherwasIrishofScotlandRoad，wheretheymetandmarried。\"
\"Andwhatdidtheydoaftertheymarried？\"
\"Why，theyworkedhard，anddidtheirbesttogetalivelihoodforthemselvesandchildren，ofwhichtheyhadseveralbesidesmyself，whowastheeldest。Myfatherwasabricklayer，andmymothersoldapplesandorangesandotherfruits，accordingtotheseason，andalsowhiskey，whichshemadeherself，asshewellknewhow；formymotherwasnotonlyaConnachtwoman，butanout—and—outConnamaraquean，andwhenonlythirteenhadwroughtwiththeladswhousedtomaketheraalcraturontheislandsbetweenOchterardandBallynahinch。AssoonasIwasable，Ihelpedmymotherinmakinganddisposingofthewhiskeyandinsellingthefruit。Asfortheotherchildren，theyalldiedwhenyoung，offavers，ofwhichthereisalwaysplentyinScotlandRoad。Aboutfouryearsago—thatis，whenIwasjustfifteen—therewasagreatquarrelamongtheworkmenaboutwages。Somewantedmorethantheirmasterswerewillingtogive；otherswerewillingtotakewhatwasofferedthem。
Thosewhoweredissatisfiedwerecalledbricks；thosewhowerenotwerecalleddungs。Myfatherwasabrick；and，beingagoodmanwithhisfists，waslookeduponasaveryproperpersontofightaprincipalmanamongstthedungs。TheyfoughtinthefieldsnearSalfordforapoundaside。Myfatherhaditallhisownwayforthefirstthreerounds，butinthefourth，receivingablowundertheearfromthedung，hedropped，andnevergotupagain，dyingsuddenly。Agrandwakemyfatherhad，forwhichmymotherfurnishedusquebaughgalore；andcomfortablyanddacentlyitpassedovertillaboutthreeo’clockinthemorning，when，adisputehappeningtoarise—notonthematterofwages，fortherewasnotadungamongsttheIrishofScotlandRoad—butastowhethertheO’KeefsorO’KellyswerekingsofIrelandathousandyearsago，ageneralfighttookplace，whichbroughtinthepolice，who，beingsoondreadfullybaten，asweallturneduponthem，wentandfetchedthemilitary，withwhosehelptheytookandlockedupseveraloftheparty，amongstwhomweremymotherandmyself，tillthenextmorning，whenweweretakenbeforethemagistrates，who，afteraslightscolding，setusatliberty，oneofthemsayingthatsuchdisturbancesformedpartoftheIrishfuneralservice；whereuponwereturnedtothehouse，andtherestofthepartyjoiningus，wecarriedmyfather’sbodytothechurchyard，whereweburieditverydacently，withmanytearsandgroanings。\"
\"Andhowdidyourmotherandyougetonafteryourfatherwasburied？\"
\"Aswellaswecould，yerehanner；wesoldfruit，andnowandthenadropofwhiskey，whichwemade；butthisstateofthingsdidnotlastlong，foronedaymymotherseeingthedungwhohadkilledmyfather，sheflungalargeflintstoneandknockedouthisrighteye，fordoingwhichshewastakenupandtried，andsentencedtoayear’simprisonment，chieflyitwasthoughtbecauseshehadbeenheardtosaythatshewoulddothedungamischiefthefirsttimeshemethim。She，however，didnotsufferallhersentence，forbeforeshehadbeeninprisonthreemonthsshecaughtadisorderwhichcarriedheroff。Iwentonsellingfruitbymyselfwhilstshewasintrouble，andforsometimeafterherdeath，butverylonelyandmelancholy。AtlastmyuncleTourlough，or，astheEnglishwouldcallhim，Charles，chancingtocometoScotlandRoadalongwithhisfamily，Iwasgladtoacceptaninvitationtojointhemwhichhegaveme，andwiththemIhavebeeneversince，travellingaboutEnglandandWalesandScotland，helpingmyauntwiththechildren，anddrivingmuchthesametradewhichshehasdrivenfortwentyyearspast，whichisnotanunprofitableone。\"
\"Wouldyouhaveanyobjectiontotellmeallyoudo？\"
\"WhyIsellsneedles，asIsaidbefore，andsometimesIbuysthingsofservants，andsometimesItellsfortunes。\"
\"Doyoueverdoanythinginthewayofstriopachas？\"
\"Ohno！Ineverdoanythinginthatline；Iwouldbeburntfirst。
Iwonderyoushoulddreamofsuchathing。\"
\"Whysurelyitisnotworsethanbuyingthingsofservants，whonodoubtstealthemfromtheiremployers，ortellingfortunes，whichisdealingwiththedevil。\"
\"Notworse？Yes，athousandtimesworse；thereisnothingsoveryparticularindoingthemthings，butstriopachas—Ohdear！\"
\"It’sadreadfulthingIadmit，buttheotherthingsarequiteasbad；youshoulddononeofthem。\"
\"I’lltakegoodcarethatIneverdoone，andthatisstriopachas；
themotherthingsIknowarenotquiteright，andIhopesoontohavedonewidthem；anydayIcanshakethemoffandlookpeopleintheface，butwereIoncetodostriopachasIcouldneverholdupmyhead\"
\"Howcomesitthatyouhavesuchahorrorofstriopachas？\"
\"Igotitfrommymother，andshegotitfromhers。AllIrishwomenhaveadreadofstriopachas。It’stheonlythingthatfrightsthem；ImanesthewildIrish，forasforthequalitywomenIhaveheardtheyarenobitbetterthantheEnglish。Come，yerehanner，let’stalkofsomethingelse。\"
\"Youweresayingnowthatyouwerethinkingofleavingofffortune—
tellingandbuyingthingsofservants。Doyoumeantodependuponyourneedlesalone？\"
\"No；IamthinkingofleavingofftrampingaltogetherandgoingtotheTirnaSiar。\"
\"Isn’tthatAmerica？\"
\"Itis，yerehanner；thelandofthewestisAmerica。\"
\"Alongwayforalonegirl。\"
\"Ishouldnotbealone，yerehanner；IshouldbewidmyuncleTourloughandhiswife。\"
\"AretheygoingtoAmerica？\"
\"Theyare，yerehanner；theyintendsleavingoffbusinessandgoingtoAmericanextspring。\"
\"Itwillcostmoney。\"
\"Itwill，yerehanner；buttheyhavegotmoney，andsohaveI。\"
\"IsitbecausebusinessisslackthatyouarethinkingofgoingtoAmerica？\"
\"Ohno，yerehanner；wewishtogothereinordertogetridofoldwaysandhabits，amongstwhicharefortune—tellingandbuyingthingsofsarvants，whichyerehannerwasjistnowcheckingmewid。\"
\"Andcan’tyougetridofthemhere？\"
\"Wecannot，yerehanner。Ifwestayherewemustgoontramping，anditiswellknownthatdoingthemthingsispartoftramping。\"
\"AndwhatwouldyoudoinAmerica？\"
\"Oh，wecoulddoplentyofthingsinAmerica—mostlikelyweshouldbuyapieceoflandandsettledown。\"
\"Howcameyoutoseethewickednessofthetrampinglife？\"
\"ByhearingagreatmanysarmonsandpreachingsandhavingoftenhadtheBiblereadtousbyholywomenwhocametoourtent。\"
\"Ofwhatreligiondoyoucallyourselvesnow？\"
\"Idon’tknow，yerehanner；weareclaneunsettledaboutreligion。
WewereonceCatholicsandcarriedSaintColmanofCloyneaboutwidusinabox；butafterhearingasermonatachurchaboutimages，wewenthome，tookthesaintoutofhisboxandcasthimintoariver。\"
\"OhitwillneverdotobelongtothePopishreligion，areligionwhichupholdsidol—worshipandpersecutestheBible—youshouldbelongtotheChurchofEngland。\"
\"Well，perhapsweshould，yerehanner，ifitsministerswerenotsuchproudviolentmen。Oh，youlittleknowhowtheylookdownuponallpoorpeople，especiallyonustramps。Oncemypooraunt，Tourlough’swife，whohasalwayshadstrongerconvictionthananyofus，followedoneofthemhomeafterhehadbeenpreaching，andbeggedhimtogiveherGod，andwastoldbyhimthatshewasathief，andifshedidn’ttakeherselfoutofthehousehewouldkickherout。\"
\"Perhaps，afterall，\"saidI；\"youhadbetterjointheMethodists—
IshouldsaythattheirwayswouldsuityoubetterthanthoseofanyotherdenominationofChristians。\"
Yerehannerknowsnothingaboutthem，otherwiseyewouldn’ttalkinthatmanner。Theirwayswouldneverdoforpeoplewhowanttohavedonewithlyingandstaring，andhavealwayskeptthemselvesclanefromstriopachas。Theirwordisnotwortharottenstraw，yerehanner，andineverytransactionwhichtheyhavewithpeopletheytrytocheatandoverreach—askmyuncleTourlough，whohashadmanydealingswiththem。Butwhatisfarworse，theydothatwhichthewildestcalleent’othersideofOugteraardewouldbeburntratherthando。WhocantellyemoreonthatpointthanI，yerehanner？Ihavebeenattheirchapelsatnights，andhavelistenedtotheirscreamingprayers，andhaveseenwhat’sbeengoingonoutsidethechapelsaftertheirservices，astheycallthem，wereover—IneversawthelikegoingonoutsideFatherToban’schapel，yerehanner！Yerehanner’shanneraskedmeifIeverdidanythinginthewayofstriopachas—nowItellyethatIwasneveraskedtodoanythinginthatlinebutbyoneofthemfolks—agreatmanamongstthemhewas，bothinthewayofbusinessandprayer，forhewasacommercialtravellerduringsixdaysoftheweekandapreacherontheseventh—andsuchapreacher。Well，oneSundaynightafterhehadpreachedasermonanhour—and—a—halflong，whichhadputhalfadozenwomenintowhattheycallstaticfits，heovertookmeinadarkstreetandwantedmetodostriopachaswithhim—hedidn’tsaystriopachas，yerhanner，forhehadnoIrish—
buthesaidsomethinginEnglishwhichwasthesamething。\"
\"Andwhatdidyoudo？\"
\"Why，Iaskedhimwhathemeantbymakingfunofapooruglygirl—
fornooneknowsbetterthanmyself，yerehanner，thatIamveryugly—whereuponhetoldmethathewasnotmakingfunofme，forithadlongbeenthechiefwishofhishearttocommitstriopachaswithawildIrishPapist，andthathebelievedifhesearchedtheworldheshouldfindnonewilderthanmyself。\"
\"Andwhatdidyoureply？\"
\"Why，Isaidtohim，yerehanner，thatIwouldtellthecongregation，atwhichhelaughedandsaidthathewishedIwould，forthatthecongregationwouldsaytheydidn’tbelieveme，thoughathearttheywould，andwouldlikehimallthebetterforit。\"
\"Well，andwhatdidyousaythen？\"
\"Nothing，atall，yerehanner；butIspatinhisfaceandwenthomeandtoldmyuncleTourlough，whoforthwithtookoutaknifeandbegantosharpitonawhetstone，andImakenodoubtwouldhavegoneandstuckthefellowlikeapig，hadnotmypoorauntbeggedhimnotonherknees。AfterthatwehadnothingmoretodowiththeMethodistsasfarasreligionwent。\"
\"DidthisaffairoccurinEnglandorWales？\"
\"IntheheartofEngland，yerehanner；wehaveneverbeentotheWelshchapels，forweknowlittleofthelanguage。\"
\"Well，Iamgladitdidn’thappeninWales：IhaveratherahighopinionoftheWelshMethodist。TheworthiestcreatureIeverknewwasaWelshMethodist。AndnowImustleaveyouandmakethebestofmywaytoChepstow。\"
\"Can’tyerehannergivemeGodbeforeyego？\"
\"Icangiveyouhalf—a—crowntohelpyouonyourwaytoAmerica。\"
\"Iwantnohalf—crowns，yerehanner；butifyewouldgivemeGodI’dblessye。\"
\"WhatdoyoumeanbygivingyouGod？\"
\"PuttingHiminmyheartbysomegoodcounselwhichwillguidemethroughlife。\"
\"TheonlygoodcounselIcangiveyouistokeepthecommandments；
oneofthemitseemsyouhavealwayskept。Followtherestandyoucan’tgoverywrong。\"
\"IwishIknewthembetterthanIdo，yerehanner。\"
\"Can’tyouread？\"
\"Ohno，yerehanner，Ican’tread，neithercanTourloughnorhiswife。\"
\"Well，learntoreadassoonaspossible。WhenyouhavegottoAmericaandsettleddownyouwillhavetimeenoughtolearntoread。\"
\"Shallwebebetter，yerehanner，afterwehavelearnttoread？\"
\"Let’shopeyouwill。\"
\"Oneofthethings，yerehanner，thathavemadeusstumbleisthatsomeoftheholywomen，whohavecometoourtentandreadtheBibletous，haveafterwardsaskedmyauntandmetotellthemtheirfortunes。\"
\"Iftheyhave，themoreshameforthem，fortheycanhavenoexcuse。Well，whetheryoulearntoreadornot，stilleschewstriopachas，don’tsteal，don’tdeceive，andworshipGodinspirit，notinimage。That’sthebestcounselIcangiveyou。\"
\"Andverygoodcounselitis，yerehanner，andIwilltrytofollowit，andnow，yerehanner，letusgoourtwoways。\"
Weplacedourglassesuponthebarandwentout。Inthemiddleoftheroadweshookhandsandparted，shegoingtowardsNewportandI
towardsChepstow。AfterwalkingafewyardsIturnedroundandlookedafterher。Thereshewasinthedamploweringafternoonwendingherwayslowlythroughmudandpuddle，herupperformhuddledintheroughfriezemantle，andhercoarselegsbaretothetopofthecalves。\"Surely，\"saidItomyself，\"thereneverwasanobjectlesspromisinginappearance。Whowouldthinkthattherecouldbeallthegoodsenseandproperfeelinginthatuncouthgirlwhichtherereallyis？\"
CHAPTERCIX
ArrivalatChepstow—StirringLyric—Conclusion。
IPASSEDthroughCaerWent，onceanimportantRomanstation，andforalongtimeafterthedepartureoftheRomansacelebratedBritishcity，nowapoordesolateplaceconsistingofafewold—
fashionedhousesandastrange—lookingdilapidatedchurch。NoWelshisspokenatCaerWent，nortotheeastofit，norindeedfortwoorthreemilesbeforeyoureachitfromthewest。
ThecountrybetweenitandChepstow，fromwhichitisdistantaboutfourmiles，isdelightfullygreen，butsomewhattame。
Chepstowstandsonthelowerpartofahill，neartowherethebeautifulWyejoinsthenobleSevern。TheBritishnameoftheplaceisAberWyeorthedisemboguementoftheWye。TheSaxonsgaveitthenameofChepstow，whichintheirlanguagesignifiesaplacewhereamarketisheld，becauseeveninthetimeoftheBritonsitwasthesiteofagreatcheapormarket。AftertheNormanConquestitbecamethepropertyofDeClare，oneofWilliam’sfollowers，whobuiltnearitanenormouscastle，whichenjoyedconsiderablecelebrityduringseveralcenturiesfromhavingbeenthebirthplaceofStrongbow，theconquerorofIreland，butwhichisatpresentchieflyillustriousfromthementionwhichismadeofitinoneofthemoststirringlyricsofmoderntimes，apiecebyWalterScott，calledthe\"NormanHorseshoe，\"commemorativeofanexpeditionmadebyaDeClare，ofChepstow，withtheviewofinsultingwiththeprintofhiscourser’sshoethegreenmeadsofGlamorgan，andwhichcommencesthus：—
\"Redglowstheforge\"—
Iwenttotheprincipalinn，whereIengagedaprivateroomandorderedthebestdinnerwhichthepeoplecouldprovide。ThenleavingmysatchelbehindmeIwenttothecastle，amongsttheruinsofwhichIgropedandwanderedfornearlyanhour，occasionallyrepeatingversesoftheNormanHorseshoe。IthenwenttotheWyeanddrankofthewatersatitsmouth，evenassometimebeforeIhaddrunkofthewatersatitssource。ThenreturningtomyinnIgotmydinner，afterwhichIcalledforabottleofport，andplacingmyfeetagainstthesidesofthegrateIpassedmytimedrinkingwineandsingingWelshsongstillteno’clockatnight，whenIpaidmyreckoning，amountingtosomethingconsiderable。
ThenshoulderingmysatchelIproceededtotherailroadstation，whereIpurchasedafirst—classticket，andensconcingmyselfinacomfortablecarriage，wassoononthewaytoLondon，whereI
arrivedataboutfouro’clockinthemorning，havinghadduringthewholeofmyjourneyamostuproarioussetofneighboursafewcarriagesbehindme，namely，somehundredandfiftyofNapier’starsreturningfromtheirexpeditiontotheBaltic。
CUMROANDCUMRAEG。
THEoriginalhomeoftheCumrowasSouthernHindustan，theextremepointofwhich，CapeComorin，derivedfromhimitsname。ItmaybehereaskedwhatistheexactmeaningofthewordCumro？Thetruemeaningofthewordisayouth。ItisconnectedwithaSanscritword，signifyingayouth，andlikewiseaprince。Itissurprisinghowsimilarinmeaningthenamesofseveralnationsare：Cumro，ayouth；Gael，ahero；（24）Roman，onewhoiscomely，ahusband；（25）
FrankorFrenchman，afree，bravefellow；Dane，anhonestman；
Turk，ahandsomelad；Arab，asprightlyfellow。Lastly，RomanyChal，thenamebywhichtheGypsystyleshimself，signifyingnotanEgyptian，butaladofRome。（26）
ThelanguageoftheCumroiscalledafterhimCumraeg。OfCumrictherearethreedialects，thespeechofCumruorWales；thatofArmoricaor，astheWelshcallit，Llydaw，andtheCornish，whichisnolongerspoken，andonlyexistsinbooksandinthenamesofplaces。TheCumricbearsconsiderableaffinitytotheGaelic，orthelanguageoftheGael，ofwhichtherearealsothreedialects，theIrish，thespeechoftheScottishHighlanders，andtheManx，whichlastisrapidlybecomingextinct。TheCumricandGaelichavenotonlyagreatmanythousandwordsincommon，butalsoaremarkablegrammaticalfeature，themutationanddroppingofcertaininitialconsonantsundercertaincircumstances，whichfeatureispeculiartotheCelticlanguages。ThenumberofSanscriticwordswhichtheCumricandGaelicpossessisconsiderable。OfthetwotheGaelicpossessesthemost，andthosehavegenerallymoreoftheSanscriticcharacter，thanthewordsofthesameclasswhicharetobefoundintheWelsh。TheWelsh，however，frequentlypossessestheprimarywordwhentheIrishdoesnot。Ofthisthefollowingisaninstance。OneofthenumerousIrishwordsforamountainiscodadh。ThiswordisalmostidenticalwiththeSanscritkuta，whichalsosignifiesamountain；