cametoacollectionofhouseswhichanoldwoman，withacrackedvoiceandasmalltinmilk—pail，whomIassistedingettingoverastileintotheroad，toldmewascalledPenStrit—probablytheheadofthestreet。ShespokeEnglish，andonmyaskingherhowshehadlearnttheEnglishtongue，shetoldmethatshehadlearntitofhermotherwhowasanEnglishwoman。ShesaidthatIwastwomilesfromLlanRhyadr，andthatImustgostraightforward。IdidsotillIreachedaplacewheretheroadbranchedintotwo，onebearingsomewhattotheleft，andtheothertotheright。AfterstandingaminuteinperplexityItooktheright—handroad，butsoonguessedthatIhadtakenthewrongone，astheroaddwindledintoamerefootpath。HearingsomeonewalkingontheothersideofthehedgeIinquiredinWelshwhetherIwasgoingrightforLlanRhyadr，andwasansweredbyavoiceinEnglish，apparentlythatofawoman，thatIwasnot，andthatImustgoback。Ididso，andpresentlyawomancamethroughagatetome。
\"Areyoutheperson，\"saidI，\"whojustnowansweredmeinEnglishafterIhadspokeninWelsh？\"
\"IntruthIam，\"saidshe，withahalflaugh。
\"AndhowcameyoutoanswermeinEnglishafterIhadspokentoyouinWelsh？\"
\"Because，\"saidshe，\"itwaseasyenoughtoknowbyyourvoicethatyouwereanEnglishman。\"
\"YouspeakEnglishremarkablywell，\"saidI。
\"AndsodoyouWelsh，\"saidthewoman；\"IhadnoideathatitwaspossibleforanyEnglishmantospeakWelshhalfsowell。\"
\"Iwonder，\"thoughtItomyself，\"whatyouwouldhaveansweredifI
hadsaidthatyouspeakEnglishexecrably。\"ByherownaccountshecouldreadbothWelshandEnglish。Shewalkedbymysidetotheturn，andthenuptheleft—handroad，whichshesaidwasthewaytoLlanRhyadr。Comingtoacottageshebademegood—nightandwentin。Theroadwashorriblymiry：presently，asIwasstaggeringthroughaslough，justafterIhadpassedalittlecottage，Iheardacrackedvoicecrying，\"Isupposeyoulostyourway？\"I
recogniseditasthatoftheoldwomanwhomIhadhelpedoverthestile。Shewasnowstandingbehindalittlegatewhichopenedintoagardenbeforethecottage。Thefigureofamanwasstandingnearher。Itoldherthatshewasquiterightinhersupposition。
\"Ah，\"saidshe，\"youshouldhavegonestraightforward。\"
\"IfIhadgonestraightforward，\"saidI，\"Imusthavegoneoverahedge，atthecornerofafieldwhichseparatedtworoads；insteadofbiddingmegostraightforwardyoushouldhavetoldmetofollowtheleft—handroad。\"
\"Well，\"saidshe，\"besureyoukeepstraightforwardnow。\"
Iaskedherwhothemanwasstandingnearher。
\"Itismyhusband，\"saidshe。
\"HashemuchEnglish？\"saidI。
\"Noneatall，\"saidshe，\"forhismotherwasnotEnglish，likemine。\"Ibadehergood—nightandwentforward。PresentlyIcametoameetingofroads，andtogostraightforwarditwasnecessarytopassthroughaquagmire；remembering，however，thewordsofmyfriendthebeldameIwentstraightforward，thoughinsodoingI
wasslougheduptotheknees。InalittletimeIcametorapiddescent，andatthebottomofittoabridge。Itwasnowverydark；onlythecornerofthemoonwascastingafaintlight。AftercrossingthebridgeIhadoneortwoascentsanddescents。AtlastIsawlightsbeforemewhichprovedtobethoseofLlanRhyadr。I
soonfoundmyselfinadirtylittlestreet，and，inquiringfortheinn，waskindlyshownbyamantoonewhichhesaidwasthebest，andwhichwascalledtheWynstayArms。
CHAPTERLXV
InnatLlanRhyadr—AlowEnglishman—Enquiries—TheCook—A
PreciousCouple。
THEinnseemedverylarge，butdidnotlookverycheerful。Nootherguestthanmyselfseemedtobeinit，exceptinthekitchen，whereIheardafellowtalkingEnglishandoccasionallyyellinganEnglishsong：themasterandthemistressofthehousewerecivil，andlightedmeafireinwhatwascalledtheCommercialRoom，andputtingplentyofcoalsinthegratesoonmadetheapartmentwarmandcomfortable。Iordereddinnerorrathersupper，whichinabouthalf—an—hourwasbroughtinbythewoman。ThesupperwhethergoodorbadIdespatchedwiththeappetiteofonewhohadwalkedtwentymilesoverhillanddale。
OccasionallyIheardadreadfulnoiseinthekitchen，andthewomantoldmethatthefellowtherewasmakinghimselfexceedinglydisagreeable，chieflyshebelievedbecauseshehadrefusedtolethimsleepinthehouse。Shesaidthathewasalowfellowthatwentaboutthecountrywithfish，andthathewasthemorereadytoinsultherasthemasterofthehousewasnowgoneout。IaskedifhewasanEnglishman，\"Yes，\"saidshe，\"alowEnglishman。\"
\"Thenhemustbelowindeed，\"saidI。\"AlowEnglishmanisthelowestofthelow。\"AfteralittletimeIheardnomorenoise，andwastoldthatthefellowwasgoneaway。Ihadalittlewhiskyandwater，andthenwenttobed，sleepinginatolerablechamberbutrathercold。Therewasmuchrainduringthenightandalsowind；
windowsrattled，andIoccasionallyheardthenoiseoffallingtiles。
Iaroseabouteight。Notwithstandingthenighthadbeensotempestuousthemorningwassunshinyandbeautiful。HavingorderedbreakfastIwalkedoutinordertolookatthetown。LlanRhyadrisasmallplace，havingnothingremarkableinitsaveanancientchurchandastrangelittleantiquemarket—house，standingonpillars。Itissituatedatthewesternendofanextensivevalleyandattheentranceofaglen。Abrookorrivuletrunsthroughit，whichcomesdowntheglenfromthecelebratedcataract，whichisaboutfourmilesdistanttothewest。Twoloftymountainsformtheentranceoftheglen，andtowerabovethetown，oneonthesouthandtheotheronthenorth。Theirnames，iftheyhaveany，Ididnotlearn。
Afterstrollingaboutthelittleplaceforaboutaquarterofanhour，staringatthethingsandthepeople，andbeingstaredatbythelatter，Ireturnedtomyinn，astructurebuiltinthemodernGothicstyle，andwhichstandsnearlyoppositetothechurchyard。
WhilstbreakfastingIaskedthelandlady，whowasbustlingabouttheroom，whethershehadeverheardofOwenGlendower。
\"Intruth，sir，Ihave。Hewasagreatgentlemanwholivedalongtimeago，and，and—\"
\"GavetheEnglishagreatdealoftrouble，\"saidI。
\"Justso，sir；atleastIdaresayitisso，asyousayit。\"
\"Anddoyouknowwherehelived？\"
\"Idonot，sir；Isupposeagreatwayoff，somewhereinthesouth。\"
\"DoyoumeanSouthWales？\"
\"Intruth，sir，Ido。\"
\"Thereyouaremistaken，\"saidI；\"andalsoinsupposinghelivedagreatwayoff。HelivedinNorthWales，andnotfarfromthisplace。\"
\"Intruth，sir，youknowmoreabouthimthanI。\"
\"DidyoueverhearofaplacecalledSycharth？
\"Sycharth！Sycharth！Ineverdid，sir。\"
\"ItistheplacewhereGlendowerlived，anditisnotfaroff。I
wanttogothere，butdonotknowtheway。\"
\"Sycharth！Sycharth！\"saidthelandladymusingly：\"IwonderifitistheplacewecallSychnant。\"
\"Istheresuchaplace？\"
\"Yes，sure；aboutsixmilesfromhere，nearLangedwin。\"
\"Whatkindofplaceisit？\"
\"Intruth，sir，Idonotknow，forIwasneverthere。Mycook，however，inthekitchen，knowsallaboutit，forshecomesfromthere。\"
\"CanIseeher？\"
\"Yes，sure；Iwillgoatonceandfetchher。\"
Shethenlefttheroomandpresentlyreturnedwiththecook，ashort，thickgirlwithbluestaringeyes。
\"Heresheis，sir，\"saidthelandlady，\"butshehasnoEnglish。\"
\"Allthebetter，\"saidI。\"SoyoucomefromaplacecalledSychnant？\"saidItothecookinWelsh。
\"Intruth，sir，Ido；\"saidthecook。
\"DidyoueverhearofagwrboneddigcalledOwenGlendower？\"
\"Often，sir，often；helivedinourplace。\"
\"HelivedinaplacecalledSycharth？\"saidI。
\"Well，sir；andweoftheplacecallitSycharthasoftenasSychnant；nay，oftener。\"
\"Ishishousestanding？\"
\"Itisnot；butthehillonwhichitstoodisstillstanding。\"
\"Isitahighhill？\"
\"Itisnot；itisasmall，lighthill。\"
\"Alighthill！\"saidItomyself。\"OldIoloGoch，OwenGlendower’sbard，saidthechieftaindweltinahouseonalighthill。
\"’TheredwellsthechiefweallextolIntimberhouseonlightsomeknoll。’
\"Istherealittlerivernearit，\"saidItothecook，\"affrwd？\"
\"Thereis；itrunsjustunderthehill。\"
\"Isthereamillupontheffrwd？\"
\"Thereisnot；thatis，now—buttherewasintheoldtime；afactoryofwoollenstandsnowwherethemilloncestood。\"
\"’AmillarushingbrookuponAndpigeontowerfram’dofstone。’
\"SosaysIoloGoch，\"saidItomyself，\"inhisdescriptionofSycharth；Iamontherightroad。\"
IaskedthecooktowhomthepropertyofSycharthbelongedandwastoldofcoursetoSirWatkin，whoappearstobetheMarquisofDenbighshire。AfterafewmorequestionsIthankedherandtoldhershemightgo。Ithenfinishedmybreakfast，paidmybill，andaftertellingthelandladythatIshouldreturnatnight，startedforLlangedwinandSycharth。
AbroadandexcellentroadledalongthevalleyinthedirectioninwhichIwasproceeding。
Thevalleywasbeautifulanddottedwithvariousfarm—houses，andthelandappearedtobeinashighastateofcultivationasthesoilofmyownNorfolk，thatcountysodeservedlycelebratedforitsagriculture。Theeasternsideisboundedbyloftyhills，andtowardsthenorththevaleiscrossedbythreeruggedelevations，themiddlemostofwhich，called，asanoldmantoldme，BrynDinas，terminatestothewestinanexceedinglyhighandpicturesquecrag。
Afteranhour’swalkingIovertooktwopeople，amanandawomanladenwithbasketswhichhungaroundthemoneveryside。Themanwasayoungfellowofabouteight—and—twenty，witharoundface，fairflaxenhair，andringsinhisears；thefemalewasabloomingbuxomlassofabouteighteen。AftergivingthemtheseleofthedayIaskedthemiftheywereEnglish。
\"Aye，aye，master，\"saidtheman；\"weareEnglish。\"
\"Wheredoyoucomefrom？\"saidI。
\"FromWrexham，\"saidtheman。
\"IthoughtWrexhamwasinWales，\"said\"Ifitbe，\"saidtheman，\"thepeoplearenotWelsh；amanisnotahorsebecausehehappenstobeborninastable。\"
\"Isthatyoungwomanyourwife？\"saidI。
\"Yes；\"saidhe，\"afterafashion\"—andthenheleeredatthelass，andsheleeredathim。
\"Doyouattendanyplaceofworship？\"saidI。
\"Agreatmany，master！\"
\"Whatplacedoyouchieflyattend？\"saidI。
\"TheChequers，master！\"
\"Dotheypreachthebestsermonsthere？\"saidI。
\"No，master！buttheysellthebestalethere。\"
\"Doyouworshipale？\"saidI。
\"Yes，master，Iworshipsale。\"
\"Anythingelse？\"saidI。
\"Yes，master！Iandmymortworshipssomethingbesidesgoodale；
don’twe，Sue？\"andthenheleeredatthemort，wholeeredathim，andbothmadeoddmotionsbackwardsandforwards，causingthebasketswhichhungroundthemtocreakandrustle，andutteringloudshoutsoflaughter，whichrousedtheechoesoftheneighbouringhills。
\"Genuinedescendants，nodoubt，\"saidItomyselfasIwalkedbrisklyon，\"ofcertainoftheoldheathenSaxonswhofollowedRagintoWalesandsettleddownaboutthehousewhichhebuilt。
Really，ifthesetwoareafairspecimenoftheWrexhampopulation，myfriendtheScotchpolicemanwasnotmuchoutwhenhesaidthatthepeopleofWrexhamweretheworstpeopleinWales。\"
CHAPTERLXVI
Sycharth—TheKindlyWelcome—HappyCouple—Sycharth—RecallingtheDead—OdetoSycharth。
IWASnowatthenorthernextremityofthevalleynearagreathousepastwhichtheroadledinthedirectionofthenorth—east。
SeeingamanemployedinbreakingstonesIinquiredthewaytoSychnant。
\"Youmustturntotheleft，\"saidhe，\"beforeyoucometoyongreathouse，followthepathwhichyouwillfindbehindit，andyouwillsoonbeinSychnant。\"
\"Andtowhomdoesthegreathousebelong？\"
\"Towhom？why，toSirWatkin。\"
\"Doesheresidethere？\"
\"Notoften。Hehasplentyofotherhouses，buthesometimescomestheretohunt。\"
\"Whatistheplace’sname？\"
\"LlanGedwin。\"
Iturnedtotheleft，asthelabourerhaddirectedme。Thepathledupwardbehindthegreathouseroundahillthicklyplantedwithtrees。FollowingitIatlengthfoundmyselfonabroadroadonthetopextendingeastandwest，andhavingonthenorthandsouthbeautifulwoodedhills。Ifollowedtheroadwhichpresentlybegantodescend。OnreachinglevelgroundIovertookamaninawaggoner’sfrock，ofwhomIinquiredthewaytoSycharth。Hepointedwestwarddownthevaletowhatappearedtobeacollectionofhouses，nearasingular—lookingmonticle，andsaid，\"ThatisSycharth。\"
Wewalkedtogethertillwecametoaroadwhichbranchedoffontherighttoalittlebridge。
\"Thatisyourway，\"saidhe，andpointingtoalargebuildingbeyondthebridge，toweringupaboveanumberofcottages，hesaid，\"thatisthefactoryofSycharth；\"hethenleftme，followingthehighroad，whilstIproceededtowardsthebridge，whichIcrossed，andcomingtothecottagesenteredoneontherighthandofaremarkablyneatappearance。
Inacomfortablekitchenbyahearthonwhichblazedacheerfulbilletsatamanandwoman。BotharosewhenIentered：themanwastall，aboutfiftyyearsofage，andathleticallybuilt；hewasdressedinawhitecoat，corduroybreeches，shoes，andgreyworstedstockings。Thewomanseemedmanyyearsolderthantheman；shewastallalso，andstronglybuilt，anddressedintheancientfemalecostume，namely，akindofround，halfSpanishhat，longbluewoollenkirtleorgown，acrimsonpetticoat，andwhiteapron，andbroad，stoutshoeswithbuckles。
\"Welcome，stranger，\"saidtheman，afterlookingmeamomentortwofullintheface。
\"Croesaw，dyndieithr—welcome，foreignman，\"saidthewoman，surveyingmewithalookofgreatcuriosity。
\"Won’tyousitdown？\"saidtheman，handingmeachair。
Isatdown，andthemanandwomanresumedtheirseats。
\"Isupposeyoucomeonbusinessconnectedwiththefactory？\"saidtheman。
\"No，\"saidI，\"mybusinessisconnectedwithOwenGlendower。\"
\"WithOwenGlendower？\"saidtheman，staring。
\"Yes，\"saidI，\"Icametoseehisplace。\"
\"Youwillnotseemuchofhishousenow，\"saidtheman—\"itisdown；onlyafewbricksremain。\"
\"ButIshallseetheplacewherehishousestood，\"saidI，\"whichisallIexpectedtosee。\"
\"Yes，youcanseethat。\"
\"Whatdoesthedyndieithrsay？\"saidthewomaninWelshwithaninquiringlook。
\"ThatheiscometoseetheplaceofOwenGlendower。\"
\"Ah！\"saidthewomanwithasmile。
\"Isthatgoodladyyourwife？\"saidI。
\"Sheis。\"
\"Shelooksmucholderthanyourself。\"
\"Andnowonder。Sheistwenty—oneyearsolder。\"
\"Howoldareyou？\"
\"Fifty—three。\"
\"Dearme，\"saidI，\"whatadifferenceinyourages。Howcameyoutomarry？\"
\"ShewasawidowandIhadlostmywife。Wewereloneintheworld，sowethoughtwewouldmarry。\"
\"Doyoulivehappilytogether？\"
\"Very。\"
\"Thenyoudidquiterighttomarry。Whatisyourname？\"
\"DavidRobert。\"
\"Andthatofyourwife？\"
\"GwenRobert。\"
\"DoesshespeakEnglish？\"
\"Shespeakssome，butnotmuch。\"
\"IstheplacewhereOwenlivedfarfromhere？\"
\"Itisnot。Itistheroundhillalittlewayabovethefactory。\"
\"Isthepathtoiteasytofind？\"
\"Iwillgowithyou，\"saidtheman。\"Iworkatthefactory，butI
neednotgothereforanhouratleast。\"
Heputonhishatandbiddingmefollowhimwentout。Heledmeoveragushofwaterwhichpassingunderthefactoryturnsthewheel；thenceoverafieldortwotowardsahouseatthefootofthemountainwherehesaidthestewardofSirWatkinlived，ofwhomitwouldbeaswelltoapplyforpermissiontoascendthehill，asitwasSirWatkin’sground。Thestewardwasnotathome；hiswifewas，however，andshe，whenwetoldherwewishedtogotothetopofOwainGlendower’sHill，gaveuspermissionwithasmile。WethankedherandproceededtomountthehillormonticleoncetheresidenceofthegreatWelshchieftain，whomhisowndeedsandthepenofShakespearhaverenderedimmortal。
OwenGlendower’shillormountatSycharth，unliketheonebearinghisnameonthebanksoftheDee，isnotanartificialhill，buttheworkofnature，saveandexceptthattoacertainextentithasbeenmodifiedbythehandofman。Itissomewhatconicalandconsistsoftwostepsorgradations，wheretwofossesscoopedoutofthehillgoroundit，oneabovetheother，theloweroneembracingconsiderablythemostspace。Boththesefossesareaboutsixfeetdeep，andatonetimedoubtlesswerebricked，asstoutlarge，redbricksareyettobeseen，hereandthere，intheirsides。Thetopofthemountisjusttwenty—fivefeetacross。WhenIvisitedititwascoveredwithgrass，buthadoncebeensubjectedtotheploughasvariousfurrowsindicated。Themonticlestandsnotfarfromthewesternextremityofthevalley，nearlymidwaybetweentwohillswhichconfronteachothernorthandsouth，theonetothesouthbeingthehillwhichIhaddescended，andtheotherabeautifulwoodedheightwhichiscalledintheparlanceofthecountryLlwynSycharthorthegroveofSycharth，fromwhichcomesthelittlegushofwaterwhichIhadcrossed，andwhichnowturnsthewheelofthefactoryandonceturnedthatofOwenGlendower’smill，andfilledhistwomoats，partofthewaterbysomemechanicalmeanshavingbeenforceduptheeminence。OnthetopofthishillormonticleinatimberhousedweltthegreatWelshmanOwenGlendower，withhiswife，acomely，kindlywoman，andhisprogeny，consistingofstoutboysandbloominggirls，andthere，thoughwonderfullycrampedforwantofroom，hefeastedbardswhorequitedhishospitalitywithalliterativeodesverydifficulttocompose，andwhichatthepresentdayonlyafewbook—
wormsunderstand。Therehedweltformanyyears，thevirtualifnotthenominalkingofNorthWales，occasionallynodoubtlookingdownwithself—complaisancefromthetopofhisfastnessontheparksandfish—pondsofwhichhehadseveral；hismill，hispigeontower，hisploughedlands，andthecottagesofathousandretainers，huddledroundthelowerpartofthehill，orstrewnaboutthevalley；andtherehemighthavelivedanddiedhadnoteventscausedhimtodrawtheswordandengageinawar，attheterminationofwhichSycharthwasafire—scathedruin，andhimselfabroken—heartedoldmaninanchorite’sweeds，livinginacaveontheestateofSirJohnScudamore，thegreatHerefordshireproprietor，whomarriedhisdaughterElen，hisonlysurvivingchild。
AfterIhadbeenaconsiderabletimeonthehilllookingaboutmeandaskingquestionsofmyguide，Itookoutapieceofsilverandofferedittohim，thankinghimatthesametimeforthetroublehehadtakeninshowingmetheplace。Herefusedit，sayingthatI
wasquitewelcome。
Itriedtoforceituponhim。
\"Iwillnottakeit，\"saidhe；\"butifyoucometomyhouseandhaveacupofcoffee，youmaygivesixpencetomyoldwoman。\"
\"Iwillcome，\"saidI，\"inashorttime。Inthemeanwhiledoyougo；Iwishtobealone。\"
\"Whatdoyouwanttodo？\"
\"TositdownandendeavourtorecallGlendower，andthetimesthatarepast。\"
Thefinefellowlookedpuzzled；atlasthesaid，\"Verywell，\"
shruggedhisshoulders，anddescendedthehill。
WhenhewasgoneIsatdownonthebrowofthehill，andwithmyfaceturnedtotheeastbeganslowlytochantatranslationmadebymyselfinthedaysofmyboyhoodofanodetoSycharthcomposedbyIoloGochwhenupwardsofahundredyearsold，shortlyafterhisarrivalatthatplace，towhichhehadbeeninvitedbyOwenGlendower：—
TwicehaveIpledg’dmywordtotheeTocomethynoblefacetosee；
HispromisesleteverymanPerformasfarase’erhecan！
Fulleasyisthethingthat’ssweet，Andsweetthisjourneyisandmeet；
I’vevowedtoOwain’scourttogo，AndI’mresolvedtokeepmyvow；
SothitherstraightI’lltakemywayWithblithesomeheart，andthereI’llstay，Respectandhonour，whilstIbreathe，Tofindhishonour’droofbeneath。
Mychiefoflonglin’dancestryCanharboursonsofpoesy；
I’veheard，forsothemusehastold，He’skindandgentletotheold；
Yes，tohiscastleIwillhie；
There’snonetomatchit’neaththesky：
Itisabaron’sstatelycourt，Wherebardsforsumptuousfareresort；
TheredwellsthelordofPowisland，Whograntetheveryjustdemand。
ItslikenessnowI’lllimnyouout：
’Tiswatergirdledwideabout；
ItshowsawideandstatelydoorReachedbyabridgethewatero’er；
’Tisformedofbuildingscoupledfair，Couplediseverycouplethere；
WithinaquadratestructuretallMusterthemerrypleasuresall。
Conjointlyaretheanglesbound—
Noflawinalltheplaceisfound。
StructuresincontactmeettheeyeUponthehillock’stoponhigh；
IntoeachotherfastenedtheyTheformofahardknotdisplay。
TheredwellsthechiefweallextolIntimberhouseonlightsomeknoll；
UponfourwoodencolumnsproudMountethhismansiontothecloud；
Eachcolumn’sthickandfirmlybas’d，Anduponeachaloftisplac’d；
Inthesefourlofts，whichcoupledstand，Reposeatnighttheminstrelband；
Fourloftstheywereinpristinestate，Butnowpartitionedformtheyeight。
Tiledistheroof，oneachhouse—topRisesmoke—ejectingchimneysup。
AllofoneformthereareninehallsEachwithninewardrobesinitswallsWithlinenwhiteaswellsuppliedAsfairestshopsoffam’dCheapside。
Beholdthatchurchwithcrossuprais’dAndwithitswindowsneatlyglaz’d；
Allhousesareinthiscomprest—
Anorchard’snearitofthebest，AlsoaparkwherevoidoffearFeedantler’dherdsoffallowdeer。
Awarrenwidemychiefcanboast，Ofgoodlysteedsacountlesshost。
Meadswhereforhaytheclovergrows，Corn—fieldswhichhedgestriminclose，Amillarushingbrookupon，Andpigeontowerfram’dofstone；
Afish—ponddeepanddarktosee，Tocastnetsinwhenneedtherebe，WhichneveryetwasknowntolackAplenteousstoreofperchandjack。
Ofvariousplumagebirdsabound；
Heronsandpeacockshauntaround，Whatluxurydothhishalladorn，Showingofcostasovereignscorn；