DuringthelastfiftyyearsFrencharistocratshaveceasedtobefactorseveninmatterssocial，thesceptretheyonceheldhavingpassedintoalienhands，thedaughtersofAlbiontoagreatextentreplacingtheirFrenchrivalsininfluencingthewaysofthe\"world，\"—achange，beitremarkedinpassing，thathasnotimprovedthetoneofsocietyorcontributedtothespreadofgoodmanners。
PeopleliketheFrenchnobles，engagedinsulkingandattemptingtooverthroworboycotteachsucceedingregime，mustnaturallylosetheirinfluence。Theyhaveheldaloofsolong—fearingtocompromisethemselvesbyanyadvancestothepowersthatbe，andrestrainedbycountlesstraditionsfromtakinganactivepartineitherthesocialorpoliticalstrife—thatlittlebylittletheyhavebeenpassedbyandignored；
whichisapity，foramidtheruinofmanyhopesandambitionstheyhaveremainedtruetotheircasteandhandeddownfromgenerationtogenerationthesecretofthatgraciousurbanityandtactwhichdistinguishedtheGallicnoblewomaninthelastcenturyfromtherestofherkindandmadehersodeftinthedifficultartofpleasing—andbeingpleased。
Withinthelastfewyearstherehave，however，beensignsofachange。Youngmembersofhistorichousesshowanamusinginclinationtoescapefromtheirausteresurroundingsandresumetheplacetheirgrandparentsabdicated。Ifitisimpossibletoruleasformerly，theyatanyrateintendtogetsomefunoutofexistence。
Thisjoyousmovementtothefrontisbeingmadebytheyoungmatronsenlistedunderthe\"Sevenlittleduchesses’\"banner。
Oddlyenough，abaker’shalf—dozenofducalcoronetsarewornatthismoment，inFrance，bysmallandsprightlywomen，whohaveshakenthedustofcenturiesfromthoseornamentsandsportthemwithadecidedlymodernair！
Itisthemembersofthiscliquewho，inParisduringthespring，attheirchateauxinthesummerandautumn，andontheRivieraafterChristmas，leadtheamusementsandstrikethekeyforthemodernFrenchworld。
Nooneoftheselight—heartedladiestakesanyparticularprecedenceovertheothers。Allareyoung，andsomearewonderfullynicetolookat。TheDuchessed’Uzesis，perhaps，thehandsomest，goodlooksbeinganinheritancefromhermother，thebeautifulandwaywardDuchessedeChaulme。
Thereisavividgraceaboutthedaughter，anintensevitalitythatsuggestssomebeautifulbeingoftheforest。Asshemovesandspeaksonealmostexpectstohearthequickbreathcomingandgoingthroughherquiveringnostrils，andseefoamonherfulllips。Hermother’stragicdeathhasthrownaglamorofromancearoundthedaughter’slifethatheightensthewitcheryofherbeauty。
NextingoodlookscomesanAmerican，theDuchessedelaRochefoucauld，althoughmarriage（which，asdeMaupassantremarked，israrelybecoming）hasnotbeenpropitioustothatgentlelady。Byrightssheshouldhavebeenmentionedfirst，asherhusbandoutranks，notonlyallthemenofhisage，butalsohiscousin，theoldDucdelaRochefoucauld—Doudeauville，towhom，however，asortofbrevetrankisaccordedonaccountofhisyears，hiswealth，andthehighrankofhistwowives。
ItmightalmostbeassertedthatourfaircompatriotwearstheoldestcoronetinFrance。Shecertainlyismistressofthreeofthefinestchateauxinthatcountry，amongwhichisMiromail，wherethefamilylive，andLiancourt，asuperbRenaissancestructure，adelighttotheartist’ssoul。
TheyoungDuchessedeBrissacrunshertwocomradescloseasregardslooks。BrissacisthesonofMme。deTredern，whomNewporterswillremembertwoyearsago，whensheenjoyedsomeweeksofoursummerseason。TheirchateauwasbuiltbytheBrissacofHenriIV。’stimeandisoneofthefewthatescapeduninjuredthroughtheRevolution，itsvaststonecorridorsandmassiveoakceilings，itsmoatandbattlements，standingto—
dayunimpairedamidagroupofchateauxincludingChaumont，Rochecotte，Azay—le—Rideau，Usse，Chenonceau，within\"dining\"
distanceofeachother，thatformacentreofgayetynextinimportancetoParisandCannes。Intheautumnthesespaciouscastlesarefilledwithjoyousbandsandtheiramplestableswithhorses。Acoupleofyearsago，whenthekingofPortugalandhissuitewereentertainedatChaumontforaweekofstag—
hunting，overthreehundredpeople，servants，andguests，sleptunderitsroof，andtwohundredhorseswerehousedinitsstables。
TheDucdeLuynesandhiswife，whowasMlle。deCrussol（daughterofthebrilliantDuchessed’UzesofBoulangerfame），liveatDampierre，anotherinterestingpilefilledwithrarepictures，bric—a—brac，andstatuary，firstamongwhichisJeanGoujon’slife—sizedstatue（insilver）ofLouisXIII。，presentedbythatmonarchtohisfavorite，thefounderofthehouse。ThisgemoftheRenaissancestandsinanoctagonalchamberhungindarkvelvet，uniqueamongstatues。Ithasbeenshownbutonceinpublic，attheLoanExhibitionin1872，whenthepatrioticnobilitylenttheirtreasurestocollectafundfortheAlsace—Lorraineexiles。
TheDuchessedeNoailles，NEEMlle。deLuynes，isanotherofthiscoterieandoneofthefewFrenchnoblewomenwhohastravelled。ManyAmericanswillrememberthevisitshemadeherewithhermothersomeyearsago，andtheeffecthergirlishgraceproducedatthattime。ThedeNoailles’chateauofMaintenonisaninheritancefromLouisXIV。’sprudishfavorite，whofoundedandenrichedthedeNoaillesfamily。
TheDucandDuchessed’UzeslivenearbyatBonnellewiththeoldDucdeDoudeauville，hergrandfather，whoisalsothegrandfatherofMme。deNoailles，thesetwoladiesbeingdescendedeachfromawifeoftheoldduke，theformerfromthePrincessedePolignacandthelatterfromthePrincessedeLigne。
TheDuchessedeBisaccia，NEEPrincesseRadziwill，andtheDuchessed’Harcourt，whocompletethecircleofseven，alsoliveinthisvicinity，whereanothergroupofhistoricresidences，includingEclimontandRambouillet，thesummerhomeofthepresident，rivalsingayetyandhospitalitythechateauxoftheLoire。
NocoterieinEnglandorinthiscountrycorrespondsatalltothisFrenchcommunity。Muchastheylovetoamusethemselves，theideaofmeetinganybuttheirownsethasneverpassedthroughtheirwell—dressedheads。Theydifferfromtheirparentsinthattheyhavebrokenawayfrommanyantiquatedhabits。Theirhousesarenolongerlayhermitages，andtheiroperaboxesareregularlyfilled，butnoforeigneriseverreceived，noambitiousparvenuacceptedamongthem。Ostracismheremeansnotatenyears’exile，butlifelongbanishment。
Thecontrastisstrongbetweenthisrigorandtheenthusiasmwithwhichwealthynew—comersarewelcomedintoLondonsocietyorbyourownuppercrust，sofullofunpalatablepiecesofdough。ThisexclusivenessofthetitledFrenchremindsme—
incongruouslyenough—ofacertainarrangementofgravesinaLenoxcemetery，wherethemembersofanoldNewEnglandfamilylieburiedinacirclewiththeirfeettowarditscentre。
WhenIasked，manyyearsago，thereasonforthisarrangement，awitofthatday—adaughter，bythebye，ofMrs。Stowe—
replied，\"SothatwhentheyriseattheLastDayonlymembersoftheirownfamilymayfacethem！\"
OneisstruckbyanotherpeculiarityoftheseFrenchmenandwomen—theirastonishingproficiencyinLESARTSD’AGREMENT。
EveryFrenchwomanofanypretensionstofashionbacksherbeautyandgracewithsomeartinwhichsheissuretobeproficient。ThedowagerDuchessed’Uzesisasculptorofmark，andwhenduringtheautumnMme。deTrederngivesoperaatBrissac，shefindslittledifficultyinrecruitinghertroupefromamongtheyouthsandmaidensunderherroofwhosemusicaleducationhasbeenthoroughenoughtoenablethemtosingdifficultmusicinpublic。
Loveofthefineartsisfeltintheirconversation，inthearrangementanddecorationoftheirhomes，andintheinterestthatanexhibitionofpicturesoroldfurniturewillexcite。
FewofthesepeoplebutareHABITUESoftheHotelDrouotandconversantwiththevalueandauthenticityoftheworksofartdailysoldthere。Suchelementscombinetoformanatmospherethatdoesnotexistinanyothercountry，andlendsaninteresttosocietyinFrancewhichitisfarfrompossessingelsewhere。
ThereisbutonewaythatanoutsidercanenterthisGallicparadise。Bymarryingintoit！Twoofthesevenladiesinquestionlackthequarteringsoftherest。MissMitchellwasonlyacharmingAmericangirl，andthemotherofthePrincesseRadziwillwasMlle。BlancofMonteCarlo。However，asinmostreligionsthereareceremoniesthatpurify，sointhiscasethesacramentofmarriageissupposedtohavereconstructedthesewivesandmadethemgenealogicallywhole。
Thereissomethingincongruoustomostpeopleintheideaofayounggirlhardlyoutoftheschoolroombearingaponderoustitle。Thepompandcircumstancethatsurroundhistoricnamesconnectthem（throughourreading）withstatelymatronsplayingthe\"heavyfemale\"rolesinlife’sdrama，muchasLadyMacbeth’snameevokestheideaofaraw—bonedmother—in—lawsortofperson，thereverseofattractive，andquitethelastwomanintheworldtoeggherhusbandontoacrime—unlessitwerewifemurder！
NameslikedeChevreuse，ordelaRochefoucauld，seemappropriateonlytothewarlikeamazonsoftheFronde，orcorpulentkill—joysinpowderandcourttrainsoftheMme。
Etiquetteschool；itcomesasashock，onbeingpresentedtoagroupofgirlishfiguresinthelatestcutofgolfingskirts，whoarechatteringoddsontheGrandPrixinfaultlessEnglish，torealizethattheselight—heartedGAMINESarethepresentownersofsonoroustitles。OneshudderstothinkwhatwouldhavebeentheeffectonpoorMarieAntoinette’spriggishmentorcouldshehaveforeseenhergranddaughter，cladinknickerbockers，runningapetroleumtricycleinthestreetsofParis，orpedalling\"tandem\"acrosscountrybehindsomeyoungcavalryofficerofherconnection。
Letnosimple—mindedAmericanimagine，however，thattheseup—
to—datewomenarewaitingtowelcomehimandhisfamilytotheirintimacy。TheworldoutsideofFrancedoesnotexistforaproperlybroughtupFrencharistocrat。Fewhavetravelled；fromtheirpointofview，anymanwithmoney，bornoutsideofFrance，isa\"Rasta，\"unlesshecomewithdiplomaticrank，inwhichcasehispositionathomeiscarefullyferretedoutbeforeheisentertained。WealthyforeignersmayliveforyearsinParis，withoutmeetingasinglememberofthiscoterie，whowill，however，joinanynewclubthatpromisestobeamusing；butassoonasthe\"Rastas\"
getafooting，\"theseven\"andtheirfollowingwithdraw。
Puteauxhaditsday，thenthe\"PoloClub\"intheBoisbecametheirrendezvous。ButaseverywealthyAmericanand\"smart\"
EnglishwomanpassingthespringinParisrushedforthattooopencircle，liketackstowardamagnet，itwasfinallycutbythe\"Duchesses，\"who，togetherwithsuchattractiveaides—de—
campasthePrincessedePoix，Mmes。deMurat，deMorny，anddeBroglie，inauguratedlastspring\"TheLadies’CluboftheAcacias，\"onatinyislandbelongingtothe\"TirauxPigeons，\"
which，forthemoment，isthefadofitsfounders。
ItmustbeasurprisetothosewhodonotknowFrenchfamilypridetolearnthatexclusiveasthesewomenaretherearecliquesinFrancetodaywhosemembersconsidertheladieswehavebeenspeakingofaslackinginreserve。MenlikeGuydeDurfort，DucdeLorges，ortheDucdeMassa，andtheirwomenkind，holdthemselvesaloofonaninfinitelyhigherplane，associatingwithveryfewandscorningthevulgarherdof\"smart\"people！
Itwouldseemasifsuchavigorousweedingoutoftheunworthywouldresultinaratherrestrictedcomradeship。Whothe\"elect\"aremustbecomeeachyearmoredifficulttodiscern。
TheirpointofviewinthiscasecannotdiffermateriallyfromthatoftheoldMethodistlady，who，whileshewasquitesurenooneoutsideofherownsectcouldpossiblybesaved，hadgravefearsconcerningthefutureofmostofthecongregation。
Shefelthopefulonlyoftheclergymanandherself，adding：
\"TherearedayswhenIhavemedoubtsabouttheminister！\"
Chapter22—GrowingOldUngracefullyTHEREcomes，wearetold，acrucialmoment，\"atide\"inalllives，thattakenattheflood，leadsontofortune。Anassertion，bythebye，whichisopentodoubt。Whatdoescometoeveryoneisanhourfraughtwithwarning，which，ifunheeded，leadsontofolly。Thisfatefuldatecoincidesformostofuswiththediscoverythatweareturninggray，orthatthe\"crow’sfeet\"orourtemplesarebecomingvisiblerealities。Theunpleasantquestionthenpresentsitself：Arewetoslipmeeklyintomiddleage，orarearmsbetakenupagainstourinsidiousenemy，andtherestoflifebecomealosingbattle，foughtinchbyinch？
Inotherdaysitwasthemenwhostruggledthehardestagainsttheirfate。Uptothiscentury，themalehadalwaysbeentheornamentalmemberofafamily。Caesar，weread，covetedalaurelcrownprincipallybecauseitwouldhelptoconcealhisbaldness。ThewigsoftheGrandMonarquearehistorical。Itischaracteristicofthetimethatthelatter’sattemptsatrejuvenationshouldhavebeentakenasamatterofcourse，whileafewyearslaterpoorMadamedePompadour’sartificestoretainherfleetingyouthwerelaughedatanddecried。
To—daythesituationisreversed。Thebattle，givenupbythemen—whonowaccepttheirfatewithequanimity—isbeingwagedbytheirbetterhalveswithavigorheretoforeunknown。
Sogeneralhasthismaniabecomethatifaskedwhatoneweaknesswasmostcharacteristicofmodernwomen，whatpeculiaritymarkedthemasdifferentfromtheirsistersinothercenturies，Ishouldunhesitatinglyanswer，\"Thedesiretolookyoungerthantheiryears。\"
ThatpeopleshouldlongtobehandsomerortallerorbetterproportionedthanacruelProvidencehasmadethem，isnaturalenough；butthatsomuchtimeandtroubleshouldbespentsimplyintryingtolook\"young，\"doesseemunreasonable，especiallywhenitisevidenttoeverybodythatsucheffortsmust，inthenatureofthings，befailures。Themenorwomenwhodonotlooktheiragearerare。Ineachgenerationthereareexceptions，peoplewho，fromonecauseoranother—
generallyanexcellentconstitution—succeedinproducingtheillusionofyouthforafewyearsafteryouthitselfhasflown。
Acuriousfatalitythathastheairofanemesispursuesthosewhosucceedingivingthisfalseappearance。Whenpointingthemouttostrangers，theiradmirers（inordertomakethecontrastmoreeffective）addadecadeorsototherealage。
OnlylastmonthIwassittingatdinneroppositeafamousFrenchbeauty，whoatfiftysucceedsinlookingbarelythirty。
Duringthemealbothmyneighborsdirectedattentiontoherappearance，andineachcasesaid：\"Isn’tsheawonder！Youknowshe’soversixty！\"Soallthatpoorladygainedbylookingyouthfulwastenyearsaddedtoherage！
Thedesiretoremainattractiveaslongaspossibleisnotonlyareasonablebutacommendableambition。Unfortunatelythestupidmeansmostofourmatronsadopttoaccomplishthisendproduceexactlytheoppositeresult。
Onesignofdeficienttasteinourdayisthisfailuretoperceivethateveryagehasacharmofitsownwhichcanbeenhancedbyappropriatesurroundings，butislostwhenplacedinanincongruoussetting。Itsaddensaloverofthebeautifultoseematronsgoingsofarastrayintheirdesiretopleaseastoposeforyoungwomenwhentheynolongercanlookthepart。
Holmes，inMYMAIDENAUNT，asksplaintively：—
WHYWILLSHETRAINTHATWINTRYCURLINSUCHASPRINGLIKEWAY？
Thatthisfollyisintheairto—day，fewwilldispute。Itseemstobeperpetratedunconsciouslybythegreaternumber，withnoparticularobjectinview，simplybecauseotherpeopledoit。Anunanswerableargumentwhenusedbyoneofthefairsex！
Fewmatronsstoptothinkforthemselves，ortheywouldrealizethatbyappearinginthesameattireastheirdaughterstheychallengeacomparisonwhichcanonlybetotheirdisadvantage，andshouldbeifpossibleavoided。Isthereanydisillusionmorepainfulthan，onapproachingwhatappearedfromadistancetobeayounggirl，tofindone’sselffacetofacewithsixtyyearsofwrinkles？Thatisamodernversionofthesaying，\"anoldheadonyoungshoulders，\"withavengeance！Ifmistakensexagenarianscoulddivinetheeffectthattiredeyessmilingfromunderfalsehair，agedthroatsclaspedwithcollarsofpearls，andrheumaticoldribsbracedintoasemblanceofgirlishgrace，produceonthemenforwhosebenefitsuchadornmentshavebeenarranged，reformwouldquicklyfollow。Thereissomethingabsolutelyuncannyintheillusion。Themoresuccessfulitis，themoreweirdtheeffect。
NoonewantstoseePoloniusinthefineryofMercutio。Whatasenseoffitnessdemandsis，onthecontrary，a\"makeup\"inkeepingwiththerole，whichdoesnotmeanthatawomanistobecomeafrump，butonlythatsheistomakeherselfattractiveinanotherway。
DuringtheANCIENREGIMEinFrance，mattersoftastewereconsideredall—important；anentirecourtwouldconsultontheshadeofabrocade，andhailanewcoiffureasanevent。Thegreatladieswhohadlefttheiryouthbehindneverthencommittedtheblunder，socommonamongourmiddle—agedladies，ofapingthemaidensoftheday。Theywerefartoocleverforthat，andappreciatedtheadvantagestobegainedfromsombrestuffsandflatteringlaces。LetthosewhodoubtstudyNattier’sexquisiteportraitofMariaLeczinska。Nothingintheposeortoiletsuggestsadesireonthepainter’sparttorejuvenatehissitter。Ifanything，thequeen’sageisemphasizedassomethinghonorable。Thegrayhairissimplyarrangedandpartlyveiledwithblacklace，whichsetsoffherdelicate，fadedfacetoperfection，butwithoutflatteryorfraud。
WefindthesameviewtakenofagebythemastersoftheRenaissance，whoappreciateditscharmandlovedtoreproduceitsgrace。
QueenElizabethstandsoutinhistoryasawomanwhostruggledungracefullyagainstgrowingold。Herwigsandhoopsandfarthingalesservedonlytomakeherridiculous，andthefactthatshewishedtobepaintedwithoutshadowsinordertoappear\"young，\"isrecordedasanaberrationofagreatmind。
Aretherenopaintersto—daywhowillwhispertoourwivesandmothersthesecretoflookingreallylovely，andpersuadethemtoabandontheirfoolisheffortsatrejuvenation？
Letusseesomerealoldladiesoncemore，astheylookatusfromminiatureandportrait。Fewofus，Iimagine，butcherishthememoryofsomesuchbeingintheoldhome，asoft—
voicedgrandmother，withsilveryhairbrushedunderadiscreetandflatteringcap，withsoft，darkraimentandtulle—wrappedthroat。Therearestill，itistobehoped，manysuchlovablewomeninourland，butattimesIlookaboutmeindismay，andwonderwhoistotaketheirplaceswhentheyaregone。Aretheretobenomore\"oldladies\"？Willthenextgenerationhavetolookbackwhentheword\"grandmother\"ismentioned，toastylishvisioninParisianapparel，decolleteanddeckedinjewels，orarrayedincockylittlebonnets，perchedontousledcurls，knowingjackets，andgolfingskirts？
Thepresenthorrorofanythingelderlycomes，probably，fromthefactthattheprecedinggenerationwenttotheotherextreme，youngwomenretiringatfortyintobecappedoldage。
Knowinghoweasilyourexcitableracerunstoexaggeration，onetremblestothinkwhatsurprisesthefuturemayhold，orwhatwillbethenextdecreeofDameFashion。Havingeliminatedthe\"oldlady\"fromoffthefaceoftheearth，howfastshallwecontinuedownthefatalslopetowardtheridiculous？Shallwebecompelledbyacurrentstrongerthanourwillstoarrayourselveseachyear（thebarethoughtmakesoneshudder）inmoreandmoreyouthfulapparel，untilcorpulentsenatorstaketorunningaboutin\"sailorsuits，\"
andoctogenarianbusinessmengo\"downtown\"in\"pinafores，\"
whilebellesofsixtyorseventysummersappearinKateGreenawaycostumes，anddineoutinshort—sleevedbibs，whichwillallowcoyglimpsesoftheircunningoldanklestoappearovertheirsocks？
Chapter23—AroundaSpringTHEgreatestpieceofgoodluckthatcanbefallaContinentalvillageisthediscovery，withinitslimits，ofaspringsupplyingsomekindofmalodorouswater。Fromthatmomenttheentirecommunity，abandoningallotherplans，givethemselvesovertohatchingtheirgoldenegg，experiencehavingtaughtthemthatnoothersourceofprosperitycancomparewithaSOURCETHERMALE。Ifthewaterofthenewfoundspring，besideshavinganunpleasantsmell，isalsohot，thenProvidencehasindeedblessedthetownship。
Thefirststepistohavethefluidanalyzedbyacelebrity，anditsmedicinalqualitiesdulysetforthinacertificate。
Thesecondistogetofficialrecognitionfromthegovernmentandtheauthorizationtoerectabathhouse。Oncethesepreliminariesaccomplished，thewayliesplainbeforethefortunatevillage；everycitizen，fromthemayordowntothehumblestlaborer，devoteshimselftosolvingtheall—importantproblemhowtoattractstrangerstotheplaceandkeepandamusethemwhentheyhavebeensecured。
Multicoloredpamphletsdetailingthelocalattractionsaremailedtothefourcornersoftheearth，andbrilliantchromosofthevillage，withgroupsofpeasantsintheforeground，wearingpicturesquecostumes，arepostedineveryavailablerailwaystationandbooking—office，regardlessofthefactthatnocostumeshavebeenknownintheneighborhoodforhalfacentury，exceptthoseprovidedbythehotelproprietorsfortheirhousemaids。Anationaldress，however，hasafineeffectintheadvertisement，andgivesalocalcolortothescene。What，forinstance，wouldAthensbewithoutthatsuperbindividualinnationalget—upwhomoneissuretoseebeforethehotelonalightingfromtheomnibus？IamconvincedthathehasgivenasmuchpleasureastheAcropolistomosttravellers；theknowledgethatthehotelproprietorssharetheexpensesofhiskeepandtoiletcannotdispelthecharmofthosescarletembroideriesandglitteringarms。
Afterpreparingtheirtrap，thewilyinhabitantsofanewwatering—placehaveonlytositdownandawaitevents。Thefirstpeopletoappearonthesceneare，naturally，theEnglish，somehiddennaturallawcompellingthatracetowanderforeverininexpensiveby—waysandserveaspioneersforothernations。Nomatterhowneworinaccessiblethespring，youaresuretofindasmallcolonyofBritonsinstalledinthehalf—finishedhotels，readingweek—oldeditionsoftheTIMES，andgrumblingovertheincreaseinpricessincetheyearbefore。
AssoonasthefirststrayBritonshavedevelopedintoan\"Englishcolony，\"themunicipalityconsiderthemselvesauthorizedtoconstructacasinoandopenavenues，whicharesoonborderedbyyoungtreesandyoungervillas。InthewakeoftheEnglishcomeinvalidsofothernationalities。Ifawandering\"crownedhead\"canbesecuredforaseason，agreatstepisgained，asthatwillattracttherealpayingpublicandtheAmericans，whoasageneralthingarethelasttoappearonthescene。
Atthisstageofitsevolution，the\"cityfathers\"buildatheatreinconnectionwiththeircasino，and（persuadingthegovernmenttowinkattheirevasionofthegamblinglaws）addgamesofchancetotheothertemptationsoftheplace。
Thereisnobetterexampleofthewayaspringcanbedevelopedbycleverhandling，andsatisfactoryresultsobtainedfromadvertisingandjudiciousexpenditure，thanAix—
les—Bains，whichtwentyyearsagowasbutatinymountainvillage，andto—dayranksamongthewealthiestandmostbrilliantEAUXinEurope。Inthiscase，itistrue，theyhadtraditiontofallbackon，forAquaeGratinaewasalreadyafavoritewatering—placeintheyear30B。C。，whenCaesartookthecure。
ThereislittledoubtinmymindthatwhentheRomanEmperorfirstarrivedhefoundacolonyofspinstersandretiredarmyofficers（fromrecentlyconqueredBritain）livingaroundthisspringinPOPINAE（whicharesupposedtohavecorrespondedtoourmodernboarding—house），wearingwaterprooftogasandcommon—sensecothurni，withdoublecorksoles。
ThewifeofanotherCaesarfledhitherin1814。Thelittleinnwhereshepassedasummerinthecompanyofherone—eyedlover—whilethefateofherhusbandandsonwasbeingdecidedatViennaandWaterloo—isstillstanding，andservesastheannexofavastnewhotel。
Thewayinwhichawatering—placeis\"run\"abroad，wheretouristsareregardedasgodsends，tobecherished，spoiled，anddespoiled，isamusinglydifferentfromthemannerofourvillagepopulationswhensummervisitors（whomtheylookuponasnaturalenemies）appearonthescene。Abroadtheentiretown，togetherwiththesurroundingvillages，hamlets，andfarmhouses，racktheirbrainsanddevotetheirtimetoinventingnewamusementsforthevisitor，andoriginalwaysofenticingthegoldfromhispocket—for，mindyou，onbothcontinentstheobjectisthesame。InEuropetheruralMachiavellishavehadtimetolearnthatsmilingfacesandpicturesquesurroundingsarehalfthebattle。
Anotherpointwhichisperfectlyunderstoodabroadisthatacuremustbelargelymental；thatinconsequenceboredomretardsrecovery。Soduringeveryhourofthedayandeveningadifferentamusementisprovidedforthosewhofeelinclinedtobeamused。AtAix，forinstance，Colonne’sorchestraplaysunderthetreesattheVilladesFleurswhileyouaresippingyourafter—luncheoncoffee。Atthreeo’clock\"Guignol\"
performsfortheyoungsters。Atfiveo’clockthereisanotherconcertintheCasino。Ateighto’clockanoperettaisgivenatthevilla，andacomedyintheCasino，bothendingdiscreetlyateleveno’clock。Onceaweek，asavariety，theparkisilluminatedandfireworkshelptopasstheevening。
IfneithermusicnorGuignoltemptsyou，everyformoftrapfromafour—horsebreaktoadonkey—chair（thelattermuchinfashionsincetheEnglishqueen’svisit）isstandingreadyinthelittlesquare。Ontheneighboringlakeyouhavebuttochoosebetweenadozenkindsofboats。Thehireofallthesemodesofconveyancebeingfixedbythemunicipality，andplainlyprintedinboatorcarriage，extortionsordiscussionsareimpossible。Ifyoupreferarambleamongthehills，thewilynativeislyinginwaitforyoutherealso。Whenyouarrivebreathlessatyourjourney’send，ashadyarboroffersshelterwhereyoumaycooloffandenjoytheview。Itisnotbyaccidentthatadishoffreshlygatheredstrawberriesandabowlofmilkhappentobestandingnearby。
Whenbicyclingaroundthelakeyoubegintofeelhowniceahalfhour’srestwouldbe。Presto！aterraceoverhangingthewaterappears，andafarmer’swifewhoproposesbrewingyouacupoftea，supplementingitwithbutterandbreadofherownmaking。Weakhumannaturecannotwithstandsuchblandishments。Youfindyourselfbecomingfondofthepeopleandtheirsmilingways，returningagainandagaintoshoreswhereyouaremadesowelcome。Thefactthat\"business\"isatthebottomofallthisinnowayinterfereswithone’senjoyment。Onthecontrary，toapracticalminditisrefreshingtoseehowmuchcanbemadeofalittle，andwhatafundofprofitandpleasurecanbeextractedfromsmallthings，ifonegoestoworkintherightway。
Thetrickcandoubtlessbeoverdone：atmomentsonefeelsthelittlegameisworkedabittooopenly。Theotherevening，forinstance，whenweenteredthedining—roomofourhotelandfounditdecoratedwithflagsandflowers，because，forsooth，itwasthebirthdayof\"VictoriaR。andI。，\"whenchampagnewasofferedatdessertandthebandplayed\"GodSavetheQueen，\"whiletheEnglishsolemnlystoodupintheirplaces，itdidseemasiftheproprietorwaspokingfunathisguestsinaslyway。
Iwasapparentlytheonlyperson，however，whofeltthis。TheEnglishweremuchflatteredbytheattention，soIsnubbedmyselfwiththereflectionthatifthedatehadbeenJuly4，I
doubtlessshouldhaveconsideredtheflagsandmusicmostA
PROPOS。
Therearealsomomentswhenthevividpicturesquenessofthisplacecomesneartopallingonone。Itsbeautyissosuspiciouslylikeasetscenethatitgivestheimpressionofhavingbeenarrangedbysomecleverdecoratorwithaneyetoeffectonly。
OneiscontinuallyremindedofthatinimitablechapterinDaudet’sTARTARINSURLESALPES，whentheherodiscoversthatallSwitzerlandisoneenormoushumbug，runtoattracttourists；thatthecataractsare\"faked，\"andavalanchesarrangedbeforehandtoenlivenadullseason。CananythingbemoredeliciousthanthedisillusionofTartarinandhisfriends，justbackfromaperilouschamoishunt，ondiscoveringthattheanimaltheyhadexhaustedthemselvesinfollowingalldayacrossthemountains，wasbeingrefreshedwithhotwineinthekitchenofthehotelbyitspeasantowner？
WhenonevisitsthetheatricalabbeyacrossthelakeandinspectsthetoopicturesquetombsofSavoy’ssovereigns，orwalksinthewonderfuloldgarden，withitsintermittentspring，thesuspicionoccurs，inspiteofone’sself，thatthewholescenewillbefoldedupatsunsetandthebare—footed\"brother\"whoisshowingusaroundwithsomuchunctionwill，afterourdeparture，hurryintoanothercostume，andappearlaterasoneofthehappypeasantswhoaresinginganddrinkinginfrontofthatabsurdlyoperaticlittleinnyoupassonthedrivehome。
Thereisacertainpinkcottage，withathatchedroofandoverhangingvines，aboutwhichIhaveseriousdoubts，andfullyexpectsomedaytoseeColumbineappearonthatpistache—greenbalcony（wherethemagpieishanginginawickercage），and，takingArlequin’shand，disappearintothewater—buttwhileClowndoesaheaderoverthehalf—door，andthecottageitselfturnsintoagildedcoach，withColumbinekissingherhandfromthewindow。
Aproblemwhichourintelligentpeoplehavenotyetsetthemselvestosolve，isbeingworkedoutabroad。ThelittlecitiesofEuropehavediscoveredthatprosperitycomeswiththetourist，thatwithincreasedfacilitiesofcommunicationthetownshipwhichexpendsthemostinmoneyandbrainsinattractingrichtravellerstoitsgatesistheplacethatwillgrowandprosper。Itisasimplelesson，andonethatIwouldgladlyseeourAmericanwatering—placeslearnandapply。
Chapter24—TheBetterPartASIwatch，yearafteryear，theflowersofouraristocratichothousesbloomingbehindtheglasspartitionsoftheirconservatories，tendedalwaysbythesamegardeners，admiredbythesameamateurs，andthen，forthemostpart，witheringunpluckedontheirvirginstems，Iwonderifthewildflowersappreciatethegoodluckthatallowsthemtotastethestormandthesunshineuntrammelledanddisperseperfumeaccordingtotheirownsweetwill。
Todropacumbersomemetaphor，thereisnottheshadowofadoubtthatthetamestandmostmonotonouslivesinthiscountryarethoseledbythewomeninour\"exclusive\"sets，forthegoodreasonthattheyaresurroundedbyallthetrammelsofEuropeansocietywithoutenjoyinganyofitsbenefits，andliveinanatmospherethattakesthetasteoutofexistencetoosoon。
Girlsabroadarekeptawayfromthe\"world\"becausetheirsociallifeonlycommencesaftermarriage。InAmerica，onthecontrary，awomanislaidmoreorlessontheshelfthedayshebecomesawife，sothatifshehasnotmadehaywhilehermaidensunshinelasted，thechancesareshewillhavebutmeagrelyfurnishedlofts；andhow，Iask，isagirltoharvestalwaysinthesamefield？
Wheninthiscountry，aproperlybroughtupyoungaristocratispresentedbyhermammatoanadmiringcircleoffriends，sheisquiteaBLASEEperson。Thedancingclassesshehasattendedforacoupleofyearsbeforeherdebut（thatshemightknowtherightsetofyouthsandmaidens）havetakenthebloomoffherentranceintotheworld。Sheandherfriendshavealreadytalkedoverthe\"men\"oftheircircle，anddecided，withasigh，thattherewerematchesgoingabout。A
juvenileNewporterwasrecentlyoverhearddeploring（toafriendoffifteensummers），\"Bythetimewecomeouttherewillonlybetwomatchesinthemarket，\"meaning，ofcourse，millionnaireswhocouldprovidetheirbrideswithcountryandcityhomes，yachts，andtheotherappurtenancesofabrilliantposition。Now，theunfortunatepartoftheaffairis，thatsuchaworldly—mindedmaidenwillingoodtimebeobligedtomakeherdebut，dine，anddancethroughadozenseasonswithoutmakinganewacquaintance。Hermigrationsfromtowntoseashore，orfromonecountryhousetoanother，willbebutchangesofscene：theactorswillremainalwaysthesame。
Whenshedinesout，shecan，ifshecarestotakethetrouble，makeafairguessastowhotheguestswillbebeforeshestarts，foreachentertainmentisbutanewshuffleofthetoowell—knownpack。Sheismorallycertainofbeingtakenintodinnerbyoneoffiftymenwhomshehasknownsinceherchildhood，andhasmetonanaveragetwiceaweeksinceshewaseighteen。
Offoreignerssuchagirlseeslittlebeyondastraydiplomatistortwo，insearchofafortune，andherglimpsesofParissocietyareobtainedfromthewindowsofahotelonthePlaceVendome。InLondonorRomeshemaybepresentedinafewinternationalsalons，butasshefindsitdifficulttomakehernewacquaintancesunderstandwhatanexaltedpositionsheoccupiesathome，thechancesarethatpiqueatseeingsomeDaisyMillerattractalltheattentionwilldrivemyladybacktothecitywheresheisknownandappreciated，nothingbeingmoredifficultforanAmerican\"swell\"thanexplainingtotheuninitiatedinwhatwayherpositiondiffersfromthatoftherestofhercompatriots。
WhenIseethebeviesofhighlyeducatedandattractivegirlswhomaketheirbowseachseason，Iaskmyselfinwonder，\"Who，inthenameofgoodness，aretheytomarry？\"
Intheverycirclewheresomuchstressislaidonagirl’sestablishingherselfbrilliantly，thefewestpossiblehusbandsaretobefound。Yet，limitedassuchagirl’schoiceis，shewillsoonerremainsinglethanacceptahusbandoutofherset。Shehasaperfectlydistinctideaofwhatshewants，andhaslivedsolongintheatmosphereofwealththatexistencewithoutfootmenandmalecooks，horsesandFrenchclothes，appearstoherimpossible。Suchlargeproportionsdothesedetailsassumeinhermindthateachyearthehusbandhimselfbecomesoflessimportance，andwhathecanprovidetheessentialpoint。
Ifanoutsiderissufficientlyrich，myladymayconsenttouniteherdestiniestohis，hopingtogethimabsorbedintoherownworld。
Itispathetic，consideringtherestrictednumberofeligiblemengoingabout，toseethetroubleandexpensethatparentstaketokeeptheirdaughtersENEVIDENCE。Whenonereflectsonthenumberofpeoplewhoaredisturbedwhensuchagirldinesout，thehorsesandmenandwomenwhoarekeptuptoconveyherhome，thetimeithastakenhertodress，thecostofthetoiletitself，andthenseethemantowhomshewillbeconsignedfortheevening，—someboredmanabouttownwhohasprobablytakenhermotherintodinnertwentyyearsbefore，andwillnottroublehimselftotalkwithhisneighbor，oraschoolboy，breakinginhisfirstdresssuit，—whenonerealizesthatformanymaidensthisgoesonnightafternightandseasonafterseason，itseemsincrediblethattheyshouldhavethecourage，orthinkitworththeirwhiletokeepupthegame。
Thelogicalresultofturningeternallyinthesamecircleisthatninetimesoutoftenthemenwhomarrychoosegirlsoutoftheirownset，someprettystrangerwhohasburstontheirjadedvisionwithallthecharmoftheunknown。A
conventionalsocietymaidenwhohasnotbeenfortunateenoughtomeetandmarryamansheloves，orwhosefortunetemptsher，duringthefirstseasonortwothatsheis\"out，\"willinallprobabilitygoonrevolvinginanever—narrowingcircleuntilshebecomesstationaryinitscentre。
Incomparisonwithsuchanexistencethelifeoftheaverage\"summergirl\"isonelongfrolic，asvariedasthatofheraristocraticsisterismonotonous。Eachspringshehastheexcitementofselectinganewbattle—groundforhermanoeuvres，forinthecircleinwhichshemoves，parentsleavesuchdetailstotheirchildren。Onceinstalledinthehotelofherchoice，mademoiselleproceedstomaketheacquaintanceofanentirelynewsetoffriends，delightfulyouthsjustarrived，andbentonmakingthemostoftheirbriefholidays，withwhomhercodeofetiquetteallowshertosailallday，andpassuncountedeveninghoursinremotecornersofpiazzaorbeach。
Asthewords\"position\"and\"set\"havenomeaningtoheryoungears，andnoonehaseverpreachedtohertheimportanceofimprovinghersocialstanding，theacquaintancesthatchancethrowsinherpathareacceptedwithoutquestioniftheyhappentobegood—lookingandamusing。Shehasnoprejudiceastostanding，andifhersupplyofpartnersrunsshort，shewilldanceandflirtwiththeclerkfromthedeskinperfectgoodhumor—infact，shestandsratherinaweofthatfunctionary，andadmiresthe\"English\"cutofhisclothesandhisEasternswagger。Alargehotelisherdreamofluxury，andacoupleofsimultaneousflirtationsheridealofbliss。
Nolongeveningsofcruelboredom，inordertobeseenatsmarthouses，willcloudthemaiden’scareer，noagonizedanticipationofretiringpartnerlessfromcotillionorsupperwilldisturbherpleasure。
Inthecityshehailsfrom，everybodysheknowslivesinaboutthesamestyle。Somearesaidtobewealthierthanothers，butnothingintheirwayoflifebetraysthefact；theartofknowinghowtoenjoywealthbeingbutlittleunderstoodoutsideofouroneortwogreatcities。Shehasthattranquilsenseofbeingthesocialequalofthepeopleshemeets，theabsenceofwhichmakesthesnob’slifeaburden。
Duringhersummersawayfromhomeour\"youngfriend\"willmeetothergirlsofherage，andformfriendshipsthatresultinmutualvisitingduringtheensuingwinter，whenshewillcontinuetoaddmorenewnamestothelonglistofheradmirers，untilonefinemorningshewriteshometoherdelightedparentsthatshehasfoundtherightmanatlast，andengagedherselftohim。
Neverhavingpenetratedtothosesacredcentreswherebirthandwealthareconsideredall—important，andignoringthesupremeimportanceoflivinginoneset，theplanoflifethatsuchawomanlaysoutforherselfisexceedinglysimple。ShewillcoquetteanddanceanddreamherpleasantdreamuntilPrinceCharming，whoistoawakenhertoanewlife，comesandkissesawaythedewofgirlhoodandleadshisbrideoutintothework—a—dayworld。Thesimplesurroundingsandambitionsofheryouthwillmakeiteasyforthiswifetofollowthemanofherchoice，ifnecessary，totheremotevillagewhereheisdirectingafactoryortotheminingcampwherethefoundationsofafortunelie。Lifeisfullofdeliciouspossibilitiesforher。Menwhoareforcedtomaketheirwayinyouthoftenturnouttobethosewhomake\"history\"later，andabridewhohasnotbecomeprematurelyBLASEEtoalltheluxuriesorpleasuresofexistencewillknowthegreatesthappinessthatcancomeintoawoman’slife，thatofrisingatherhusband’sside，stepbystep，enjoyinghistriumphsasshesharedhispoverty。
Chapter25—LaComedieFrancaiseaOrangeIDLINGupthroughthesouthofFrance，incompanywithapassionateloverofthatfairland，welearnedonarrivingatLyons，thattheactorsoftheComedieFrancaiseweretopassthroughtherethenextday，ENROUTEforOrange，whereaseriesoffeteshadbeenarrangedby\"LesFelibres。\"Thissociety，composedofthewritersandpoetsofProvence，havethepreservationoftheRomantheatreatOrange（perhapsthemostperfectspecimenofclassicaltheatricalarchitectureinexistence）profoundlyatheart，theirhopebeingtorestoresomeofitspristinebeautytotheruin，andgivefromtimetotimeperformancesoftheGreekmasterpiecesonitsdisusedstage。
Themoneyobtainedbytheserepresentationswillbespentintherestorationofthetheatre，anditisexpectedintimetomakeOrangethecentreofclassicdrama，asBeyreuthisthatofWagnerianmusic。
AtLyons，theCORTEGEwastoleavetheParistrainandtakeboatsdowntheRhone，totheirdestination。Theirprogrammewassotemptingthattheofferofplacesinoneofthecraftwasenoughtolureusawayfromourprearrangedroute。
Byeighto’clockthefollowingmorning，wewereonfoot，aswasapparentlytheentirecity。AcannonfiredfromFortLamothegavethesignalofourstart。Theriver，coveredwithathousandgaylydecoratedcraft，glintedandglitteredinthemorninglight。Itworldbedifficulttoforgetthatscene，—
thebanksoftheRhonewerelinedwiththeruralpopulation，whohadcomemilesineverydirectiontoacclaimthepassageoftheirpoets。
Everywherealongourroutethehousesweregaylydecoratedandarchesofflowershadbeenerected。WefloatpastVienne，acityoncegovernedbyPontiusPilate，andTournon，withitsfeudalchateau，blueinthedistance，thenSaintPeray，onaverdantvine—cladslope。AswepassunderthebridgeatMontelimar，anavalancheofflowersdescendsonusfromabove。
TherapidcurrentoftheriversoonbringsourflotillaoppositeVivier，whoseGothiccathedralbathesitsfeetintheRhone。SaintEspritanditsantiquebridgeappearnextonthehorizon。TraditionassertsthattheHolySpirit，disguisedasastonemason，directeditsconstruction；therewerethirteenworkmeneachday，butatsunset，whenthemengatheredtobepaid，buttwelvecouldbecounted。
Herethemayorandthemunicipalcouncilweretohavereceivedusanddeliveredanaddress，butwerenotonhand。WecouldseethetardyCORTEGEhasteningtowardsthebridgeasweshotawaydownstream。
OnnearingOrange，thebanksandquaysoftheriverarealivewithpeople。Thehighroad，parallelwiththestream，isalivewithamany—coloredthrong。OnallsidesonehearsthelanguageofMistral，andrecognizesthemusicofMireillesungbythesepilgrimstoanartisticMecca，whereamiracleistobeperformed—andclassicartcalledforthfromitswinding—
sheet。
ThepopulationofawholeregionisastirundertheardentProvencalsun，towitnessaresurrectionoftheDramainthehistoricvalleyoftheRhone，throughwhosechannelthecivilizationandartandcultureoftheoldworldfloatedupintoEuropetotheceaselesscryoftheCIGALES。
Chateaurenard！ourwaterjourneyisended。ThroughtheleafyavenuesthatleadtoOrange，weseethearchofMariusandthegiganticprosceniumofthetheatre，risingabovetheroofsofthelittlecity。
SofewofourcompatriotslingerinthesouthofFranceafterthespringhassetin，orwanderintheby—waysofthatinexhaustiblecountry，thatawordabouttherepresentationsatOrangemaybeofinterest，andperchancecreateadesiretoseethemasterpiecesofclassicdrama（thecommoninheritanceofallcivilizedraces）revivedwithus，andourstageputtoitslegitimateuse，cultivatingandelevatingthetasteofthepeople。
OnewouldsogladlyseealittleofthemoneythatisgenerouslygivenformusicusedtoreviveinAmericaalovefortheclassicdrama。
Wearecertainlynotinferiortoourneighborsincultureorappreciation，andyetsuchaperformanceasIwitnessedatOrange（layingasidetheenchantmentlentbythesurroundings）
wouldnotbepossiblehere。Why？Buttoreturntomynarrative。
Thesunissettingaswetoil，ticketinhand，uptheRomanstairwaytotheupperrowsofseats；farbelowthelocalGENDARMERIEwhomostlyunderstandtheirordersbackwardsarestrugglingwiththethrong，whoseentrancetheyareapparentlyobstructingbyeverymeansintheirpower。Onceseated，andhavingawaitofanhourbeforeus，weamusedourselveswatchingthecrowdfillingineverycornerofthevastbuilding，likearisingtideofmulti—coloredwater。
Wehadpurposelychosenplacesonthehighestandmostremotebenches，totestthevauntedacousticqualitiesoftheauditorium，andtoobtainaviewofthehalf—circleofhumanity，thegiganticwallbackofthestage，andthesurroundingcountry。
Asdaysoftenedintotwilight，andtwilightdeepenedintoaluminousSouthernnight；theeffectwasincomparable。ThebelfriesandroofsofmediaevalOrangeroseintheclearair，overtoppingthehalfruinedtheatreinmanyplaces。ThearchofMariusgleamedwhiteagainstthesurroundinghills，themselvesvioletandpurpleinthesunset，theirshadowbrokenhereandtherebytheoutlineofacrumblingchateauorthelightsofavillage。
Behindusthesentriespacedalongthewall，wrappedintheirdarkcloaks；andoverallthescene，onesnowtoppedpeakrosewhiteonthehorizon，likesomeclassicvirginassistingatanOlympiansolemnity。
Onthestage，partlyclearedofthedebrisoffifteenhundredyears，treeshadbeenleftwheretheyhadgrown，amongfallencolumns，fragmentsofcapitalandstatue；nearthefrontasuperbrose—laurelrecalledtheAtticshores。Totheright，wildgrassesandherbsalternatedwiththickshrubbery，amongwhichOresteshidlater，duringthelamentationsofhissister。Totheleftagiganticfig—tree，growingagainthedarkwall，threwitsbranchesfaroutoverthestage。
Itwasfrombehinditsfoliagethat\"Gaul，\"\"Provence，\"and\"France，\"personatedbythreeactressesofthe\"Francais，\"
advancedtosaluteApollo，seatedonhisrusticthrone，intheprologuewhichbegantheperformance。
Sincemiddaytheweatherhadbeenthreatening。Atseveno’clocktherewasalmostashower—amomentofterribleanxiety。Whatamisfortuneifitshouldrain，justastheactorsweretoappear，here，whereithadnotrainedfornearlyfourmonths！Myright—handneighbor，acitizenofBeaucaire，assuresme，\"Itwillbenothing，onlyastrong`mistral’forto—morrow。\"Anelectricianisputtingthefinishingtouchestohisarrangements。Hetriesvainlytoconcentratesomelightontheboxwherethecommitteeistosit，whichisscreenedbyabitofcrumblingwall，butfinallygivesitup。
Suddenlythebuglessound；theorchestraringsouttheMarseillaise；itiseighto’clock。Theskyiswildandthreatening。Anunseenhandstrikesthethreetraditionalblows。TheFaunLybrianslipsdownfromabranchofagreatelm，andthrowshimselfonthestepsthatlateraretorepresenttheentrancetothepalaceofAgamemnon，andcommencestheprologue（aninvocationtoApollo），inthemidstofsuchconfusionthatwehearhardlyaword。Littlebylittle，however，thecrowdquietsdown，andIcatchLouisGallet’sfinelines，marvellouslyphrasedbyMesdamesBartet，Dudlay，Moreno，andthehandsomeFenouxasApollo。
Therealinterestofthepublicisonlyaroused，however，whenTHEERYNNIESbegins。ThispowerfuladaptationfromthetragedyofAEschylusisTHECHEFD’OEUVREofLecontedeLisle。
Thesilenceisnowcomplete。Onefeelsintheairthatthemomentsolongandsoanxiouslyawaitedhascome，thatagreateventisabouttotakeplace。Everyeyeisfixedonthestage，waitingtoseewhatwillappearfrombehindthedarkarchesoftheproscenium。Afaint，plaintivestrainofmusicfloatsoutonthesilence。Demonscrawlamongtheleafyshadows。Notalightisvisible，yetthecentreofthestageisinstrongrelief，shadingoffintoathousandfantasticshadows。Theaudiencesitsincompletedarkness。ThenweseethepeopleofArgos，windingtowardusfromamongthetrees，lamenting，astheyhavedoneeachdayfortenyears，thelongabsenceoftheirsonsandtheirking。Theoldmennolongerdaretoconsulttheoracles，fearingtolearnthatallislost。Thebeautyofthislamentrousedthefirstmurmurofapplause，eachword，eachsyllable，chimingoutacrossthatvastsemicirclewithaclearnessandaneffectimpossibletodescribe。
Nowitisthesentinel，whofromhiswatch—towerhascaughtthefirstglimpseofthereturningarmy。Wehearhimdashinglikeatorrentdowntheturretstair；atthedoorway，hisgarmentsblownbythewind，hisbodybendingforwardinasplendidposeofjoyandexultation，heannouncesinavoiceofthunderthearrivaloftheking。
Socompletelyarethetwentythousandspectatorsunderthespellofthedramathatatthisnewsonecanfeelathrillpassoverthethrong，whomthesplendidversesholdpalpitatingundertheircharm，awaitingonlytheendofthetiradetobreakintoapplause。
Fromthatmomenttheperformanceisonelongtriumph。
Clytemnestra（MadameLerou）comeswithhersuitetoreceivetheking（Mounet—Sully），theconqueror！Ineverrealizedbeforealltheperfectionthattrainingcangivethespeakingvoice。Eachsyllableseemedtoringoutwithabell—likeclearness。AsshegraduallyroseinthelastacttothescenewithOrestes，Iunderstoodtheuseofthegreatwallbehindtheactors。Itincreasedthepowerofthevoicesandlentthemasonoritydifficulttobelieve。Theeffectwasoverwhelmingwhen，unabletoescapedeath，Clytemnestracriesoutherhorribleimprecations。
Mounet—Sullysurpassedhimself。PaulMounetgaveusthecompleteillusionofamonsterthirstingforblood，evenhismother’s！Whenstrikingherasshestruckhisfather，heanswersherdespairingquery，\"Thouwouldstnotslaythymother？\"\"Woman，thouhastceasedtobeamother！\"Dudlay（asCassandra）reachesasplendidclimaxwhensheprophesiesthemisfortunehangingoverherfamily，whichsheispowerlesstoavert。