Fromendtoend，singlyorinpairsortrios，thegownsandwigsgobackandforward。Throughahumoftalkandfootfalls，thepipingtonesofaMacerannounceafreshcauseandcalluponthenamesofthoseconcerned。
Intelligentmenhavebeenwalkingheredailyfortenortwentyyearswithoutaragofbusinessorashillingofreward。Inprocessoftime，theymayperhapsbemadetheSheriff-SubstituteandFountainofJusticeatLerwickorTobermory。Thereisnothingrequired，youwouldsay，butalittlepatienceandatasteforexerciseandbadair。
Tobreathedustandbombazine，tofeedthemindoncacklinggossip，tohearthreepartsofacaseanddrinkaglassofsherry，tolongwithindescribablelongingsforthehourwhenamanmayslipoutofhistravestyanddevotehimselftogolffortherestoftheafternoon，andtodothisdaybydayandyearafteryear，mayseemsosmallathingtotheinexperienced！Butthosewhohavemadetheexperimentareofadifferentwayofthinking，andcountitthemostarduousformofidleness。
Moreswingdoorsopenintopigeon-holeswherejudgesoftheFirstAppealsitsingly，andhallsofaudiencewherethesupremeLordssitbythreeorfour。Here，youmayseeScott’splacewithinthebar，wherehewrotemanyapageofWaverleynovelstothedroneofjudicialproceeding。Youwillhearagooddealofshrewdness，and，astheirLordshipsdonotaltogetherdisdainpleasantry，afairproportionofdryfun。ThebroadestofbroadScotchisnowbanishedfromthebench；butthecourtsstillretainacertainnationalflavour。Wehaveasolemnenjoyablewayoflingeringonacase。Wetreatlawasafineart，andrelishanddigestagooddistinction。Thereisnohurry：pointafterpointmustberightlyexaminedandreducedtoprinciple；judgeafterjudgemustutterforthhisOBITERDICTAtodelightedbrethren。
Besidesthecourts，thereareinstalledunderthesameroofnolessthanthreelibraries：twoofnomeanorder；confusedandsemi-subterranean，fullofstairsandgalleries；whereyoumayseethemoststudious-lookingwigsfishingoutnovelsbylanthornlight，intheveryplacewheretheoldPrivyCounciltorturedCovenanters。
AstheParliamentHouseisbuiltuponaslope，althoughitpresentsonlyonestorytothenorth，itmeasureshalf-a-dozenatleastuponthesouth；andrangeafterrangeofvaultsextendbelowthelibraries。Fewplacesaremorecharacteristicofthishillycapital。Youdescendonestonestairafteranother，andwander，bytheflickerofamatch，inalabyrinthofstonecellars。
Now，youpassbelowtheOuterHallandhearoverhead，briskbutghostly，theinterminablepatteringoflegalfeet。Now，youcomeuponastrongdoorwithawicket：ontheothersidearethecellsofthepoliceofficeandthetrap-stairthatgivesadmittancetothedockintheJusticiaryCourt。Manyafootthathasgoneuptherelightlyenough，hasbeendead-heavyinthedescent。Manyaman’slifehasbeenarguedawayfromhimduringlonghoursinthecourtabove。Butjustnowthattragicstageisemptyandsilentlikeachurchonaweek-day，withthebenchallsheetedupandnothingmovingbutthesunbeamsonthewall。Alittlefartherandyoustrikeuponaroom，notemptyliketherest，butcrowdedwithPRODUCTIONSfrombygonecriminalcases：agrimlumber：
lethalweapons，poisonedorgansinajar，adoorwithashot-holethroughthepanel，behindwhichamanfelldead。IcannotfancywhytheyshouldpreservethemunlessitwereagainsttheJudgmentDay。Atlength，asyoucontinuetodescend，youseeapeepofyellowgaslightandhearajostling，whisperingnoiseahead；
nextmomentyouturnacorner，andthere，inawhitewashedpassage，isamachinerybeltindustriouslyturningonitswheels。Youwouldthinktheenginehadgrownthereofitsownaccord，likeacellarfungus，andwouldsoonspinitselfoutandfillthevaultsfromendtoendwithitsmysteriouslabours。Intruth，itisonlysomegearofthesteamventilator；andyouwillfindtheengineersathand，andmaystepoutoftheirdoorintothesunlight。Forallthiswhile，youhavenotbeendescendingtowardstheearth’scentre，butonlytothebottomofthehillandthefoundationsoftheParliamentHouse；lowdown，tobesure，butstillundertheopenheavenandinafieldofgrass。ThedaylightshinesgarishlyonthebackwindowsoftheIrishquarter；onbrokenshutters，wrygables，oldpalsiedhousesonthebrinkofruin，acrumblinghumanpig-styfitforhumanpigs。Therearefewsignsoflife，besidesascantywashingorafaceatawindow：thedwellersareabroad，buttheywillreturnatnightandstaggertotheirpallets。
CHAPTERIV。
LEGENDS。
THEcharacterofaplaceisoftenmostperfectlyexpressedinitsassociations。Aneventstrikesrootandgrowsintoalegend，whenithashappenedamongstcongenialsurroundings。Uglyactions，aboveallinuglyplaces，havethetrueromanticquality，andbecomeanundyingpropertyoftheirscene。ToamanlikeScott，thedifferentappearancesofnatureseemedeachtocontainitsownlegendreadymade，whichitwashistocallforth：insuchorsuchaplace，onlysuchorsucheventsoughtwithproprietytohappen；andinthisspirithemadetheLADYOFTHELAKEforBenVenue，theHEARTOF
MIDLOTHIANforEdinburgh，andthePIRATE，soindifferentlywrittenbutsoromanticallyconceived，forthedesolateislandsandroaringtidewaysoftheNorth。
Thecommonrunofmankindhave，fromgenerationtogeneration，aninstinctalmostasdelicateasthatofScott；butwherehecreatednewthings，theyonlyforgetwhatisunsuitableamongtheold；andbysurvivalofthefittest，abodyoftraditionbecomesaworkofart。So，inthelowdensandhigh-flyinggarretsofEdinburgh，peoplemaygobackupondarkpassagesinthetown’sadventures，andchilltheirmarrowwithwinter’stalesaboutthefire：talesthataresingularlyappositeandcharacteristic，notonlyoftheoldlife，butoftheveryconstitutionofbuiltnatureinthatpart，andsingularlywellqualifiedtoaddhorrortohorror，whenthewindpipesaroundthetallLANDS，andhootsadownarchedpassages，andthefar-spreadwildernessofcitylampskeepsquaveringandflaringinthegusts。
Here，itisthetaleofBegbiethebank-porter，strickentotheheartatablowandleftinhisbloodwithinasteportwoofthecrowdedHighStreet。There，peoplehushtheirvoicesoverBurkeandHare；overdrugsandviolatedgraves，andtheresurrection-mensmotheringtheirvictimswiththeirknees。Here，again，thefameofDeaconBrodieiskeptpiouslyfresh。AgreatmaninhisdaywastheDeacon；wellseeningoodsociety，craftywithhishandsasacabinet-maker，andonewhocouldsingasongwithtaste。ManyacitizenwasproudtowelcometheDeacontosupper，anddismissedhimwithregretatatimeoushour，whowouldhavebeenvastlydisconcertedhadheknownhowsoon，andinwhatguise，hisvisitorreturned。ManystoriesaretoldofthisredoubtableEdinburghburglar，buttheoneIhaveinmymindmostvividlygivesthekeyofalltherest。AfriendofBrodie’s，nestedsomewaytowardsheaveninoneofthesegreatLANDS，hadtoldhimofaprojectedvisittothecountry，andafterwards，detainedbysomeaffairs，putitoffandstayedthenightintown。Thegoodmanhadlainsometimeawake；itwasfaroninthesmallhoursbytheTronbell；whensuddenlytherecameacreak，ajar，afaintlight。Softlyheclamberedoutofbedanduptoafalsewindowwhichlookeduponanotherroom，andthere，bytheglimmerofathieves’lantern，washisgoodfriendtheDeaconinamask。Itischaracteristicofthetownandthetown’smannersthatthislittleepisodeshouldhavebeenquietlytidedover，andquiteagoodtimeelapsedbeforeagreatrobbery，anescape，aBowStreetrunner，acock-fight，anapprehensioninacupboardinAmsterdam，andalaststepintotheairoffhisowngreatly-improvedgallowsdrop，broughtthecareerofDeaconWilliamBrodietoanend。Butstill，bythemind’seye，hemaybeseen，amanharassedbelowamountainofduplicity，slinkingfromamagistrate’ssupper-roomtoathieves’ken，andpickeeringamongtheclosesbytheflickerofadarklamp。
OrwheretheDeaconisoutoffavour，perhapssomememorylingersofthegreatplagues，andoffatalhousesstillunsafetoenterwithinthememoryofman。Forintimeofpestilencethedisciplinehadbeensharpandsudden，andwhatwenowcall’stampingoutcontagion’wascarriedonwithdeadlyrigour。Theofficials，intheirgownsofgrey，withawhiteSt。Andrew’scrossonbackandbreast，andawhiteclothcarriedbeforethemonastaff，perambulatedthecity，addingtheterrorofman’sjusticetothefearofGod’svisitation。ThedeadtheyburiedontheBoroughMuir；thelivingwhohadconcealedthesicknessweredrowned，iftheywerewomen，intheQuarryHoles，andiftheyweremen，werehangedandgibbetedattheirowndoors；andwherevertheevilhadpassed，furniturewasdestroyedandhousesclosed。Andthemostbogeyishpartofthestoryisaboutsuchhouses。
Twogenerationsbacktheystillstooddarkandempty；
peopleavoidedthemastheypassedby；theboldestschoolboyonlyshoutedthroughthekeyholeandmadeoff；
forwithin，itwassupposed，theplaguelayambushedlikeabasilisk，readytoflowforthandspreadblainandpustulethroughthecity。Whataterriblenext-doorneighbourforsuperstitiouscitizens！Aratscamperingwithinwouldsendashudderthroughthestoutestheart。
Here，ifyoulike，wasasanitaryparable，addressedbyouruncleanlyforefatherstotheirownneglect。
AndthenwehaveMajorWeir；foralthoughevenhishouseisnowdemolished，oldEdinburghcannotclearherselfofhisunholymemory。Heandhissisterlivedtogetherinanodourofsourpiety。Shewasamarvellousspinster；hehadararegiftofsupplication，andwasknownamongdevoutadmirersbythenameofAngelicalThomas。’Hewasatall，blackman，andordinarilylookeddowntotheground；agrimcountenance，andabignose。
Hisgarbwasstillacloak，andsomewhatdark，andheneverwentwithouthisstaff。’HowitcameaboutthatAngelicalThomaswasburnedincompanywithhisstaff，andhissisteringentlermannerhanged，andwhetherthesetwoweresimplyreligiousmaniacsofthemorefuriousorder，orhadrealaswellasimaginarysinsupontheirold-worldshoulders，arepointshappilybeyondthereachofourintention。Atleast，itissuitableenoughthatoutofthissuperstitiouscitysomesuchexampleshouldhavebeenputforth：theoutcomeandfineflowerofdarkandvehementreligion。Andatleastthefactsstruckthepublicfancyandbroughtfortharemarkablefamilyofmyths。ItwouldappearthattheMajor’sstaffwentuponhiserrands，andevenranbeforehimwithalanternondarknights。Giganticfemales，’stentoriouslylaughingandgapingwithteheesoflaughter’atunseasonablehoursofnightandmorning，hauntedthepurlieusofhisabode。Hishousefellundersuchaloadofinfamythatnoonedaredtosleepinit，untilmunicipalimprovementlevelledthestructuretotheground。Andmyfatherhasoftenbeentoldinthenurseryhowthedevil’scoach，drawnbysixcoal-blackhorseswithfieryeyes，woulddriveatnightintotheWestBow，andbelatedpeoplemightseethedeadMajorthroughtheglasses。
Anotherlegendisthatofthetwomaidensisters。A
legendIamafraiditmaybe，inthemostdiscreditablemeaningoftheterm；orperhapssomethingworse-amereyesterday’sfiction。Butitisastoryofsomevitality，andisworthyofaplaceintheEdinburghkalendar。Thispairinhabitedasingleroom；fromthefacts，itmusthavebeendouble-bedded；anditmayhavebeenofsomedimensions：butwhenallissaid，itwasasingleroom。
Hereourtwospinstersfellout-onsomepointofcontroversialdivinitybelike：butfelloutsobitterlythattherewasneverawordspokenbetweenthem，blackorwhite，fromthatdayforward。Youwouldhavethoughttheywouldseparate：butno；whetherfromlackofmeans，ortheScottishfearofscandal，theycontinuedtokeephousetogetherwheretheywere。Achalklinedrawnuponthefloorseparatedtheirtwodomains；itbisectedthedoorwayandthefireplace，sothateachcouldgooutandin，anddohercooking，withoutviolatingtheterritoryoftheother。So，foryears，theycoexistedinahatefulsilence；theirmeals，theirablutions，theirfriendlyvisitors，exposedtoanunfriendlyscrutiny；andatnight，inthedarkwatches，eachcouldhearthebreathingofherenemy。Neverdidfourwallslookdownuponanuglierspectaclethanthesesistersrivallinginunsisterliness。HereisacanvasforHawthornetohaveturnedintoacabinetpicture-hehadaPuritanicvein，whichwouldhavefittedhimtotreatthisPuritanichorror；hecouldhaveshownthemtousintheirsicknessesandattheirhideoustwindevotions，thumbingapairofgreatBibles，orprayingaloudforeachother’spenitencewithmarrowyemphasis；noweach，withkiltedpetticoat，atherowncornerofthefireonsometempestuousevening；nowsittingeachatherwindow，lookingoutuponthesummerlandscapeslopingfarbelowthemtowardsthefirth，andthefield-pathswheretheyhadwanderedhandinhand；or，asageandinfirmitygrewuponthemandprolongedtheirtoilettes，andtheirhandsbegantotrembleandtheirheadstonodinvoluntarily，growingonlythemoresteeledinenmitywithyears；untilonefineday，ataword，alook，avisit，ortheapproachofdeath，theirheartswouldmeltandthechalkboundarybeoversteppedforever。
Alas！tothosewhoknowtheecclesiasticalhistoryoftherace-themostperverseandmelancholyinman’sannals-thiswillseemonlyafigureofmuchthatistypicalofScotlandandherhigh-seatedcapitalabovetheForth-afiguresogrimlyrealisticthatitmaypasswithstrangersforacaricature。WearewonderfulpatienthatersforconsciencesakeuphereintheNorth。
Ispoke，inthefirstofthesepapers，oftheParliamentsoftheEstablishedandFreeChurches，andhowtheycanheareachothersingingpsalmsacrossthestreet。Thereisbutastreetbetweentheminspace，butashadowbetweentheminprinciple；andyettheretheysit，enchanted，andindamnatoryaccentsprayforeachother’sgrowthingrace。Itwouldbewelliftherewerenomorethantwo；butthesectsinScotlandformalargefamilyofsisters，andthechalklinesarethicklydrawn，andrunthroughthemidstofmanyprivatehomes。Edinburghisacityofchurches，asthoughitwereaplaceofpilgrimage。Youwillseefourwithinastone-castattheheadoftheWestBow。Somearecrowdedtothedoors；
someareemptylikemonuments；andyetyouwilleverfindnewonesinthebuilding。HencethatsurprisingclamourofchurchbellsthatsuddenlybreaksoutupontheSabbathmorningfromTrinityandthesea-skirtstoMorningsideonthebordersofthehills。IhaveheardthechimesofOxfordplayingtheirsymphonyinagoldenautumnmorning，andbeautifulitwastohear。ButinEdinburghallmannerofloudbellsjoin，orratherdisjoin，inoneswelling，brutalbabblementofnoise。Nowoneovertakesanother，andnowlagsbehindit；nowfiveorsixallstrikeonthepainedtympanumatthesamepunctualinstantoftime，andmaketogetheradismalchordofdiscord；andnowforasecondallseemtohaveconspiredtoholdtheirpeace。Indeed，therearenotmanyuproarsinthisworldmoredismalthanthatoftheSabbathbellsinEdinburgh：aharshecclesiasticaltocsin；theoutcryofincongruousorthodoxies，callingoneveryseparateconventiclertoputupaprotest，eachinhisownsynagogue，against’right-handextremesandleft-handdefections。’Andsurelytherearefewworseextremesthanthisextremityofzeal；andfewmoredeplorabledefectionsthanthisdisloyaltytoChristianlove。
Shakespearewroteacomedyof’MuchAdoaboutNothing。’
TheScottishnationmadeafantastictragedyonthesamesubject。AnditisforthesuccessofthisremarkablepiecethatthesebellsaresoundedeverySabbathmorningonthehillsabovetheForth。Howmanyofthemmightrestsilentinthesteeple，howmanyoftheseuglychurchesmightbedemolishedandturnedoncemoreintousefulbuildingmaterial，ifpeoplewhothinkalmostexactlythesamethoughtsaboutreligionwouldcondescendtoworshipGodunderthesameroof！Buttherearethechalklines。Andwhichistopocketpride，andspeaktheforemostword？
CHAPTERV。
GREYFRIARS。
ITwasQueenMarywhothrewopenthegardensoftheGreyFriars：anewandsemi-ruralcemeteryinthosedays，althoughithasgrownanantiquityinitsturnandbeensupersededbyhalf-a-dozenothers。TheFriarsmusthavehadapleasanttimeonsummerevenings；fortheirgardensweresituatedtoawish，withthetallcastleandthetallestofthecastlecragsinfront。Evennow，itisoneofourfamousEdinburghpointsofview；andstrangersareledthithertosee，byyetanotherinstance，howstrangelythecityliesuponherhills。Theenclosureisofanirregularshape；thedoublechurchofOldandNewGreyfriarsstandsonthelevelatthetop；afewthornsaredottedhereandthere，andthegroundfallsbyterraceandsteepslopetowardsthenorth。Theopenshowsmanyslabsandtabletombstones；andallroundthemargin，theplaceisgirtbyanarrayofaristocraticmausoleumsappallinglyadorned。
SettingasidethetombsofRoubiliac，whichbelongtotheheroicorderofgraveyardart，weScotchstand，tomyfancy，highestamongnationsinthematterofgrimlyillustratingdeath。Weseemtolovefortheirownsaketheemblemsoftimeandthegreatchange；andevenaroundcountrychurchesyouwillfindawonderfulexhibitionofskulls，andcrossbones，andnoselessangels，andtrumpetspealingfortheJudgmentDay。EverymasonwasapedestrianHolbein：hehadadeepconsciousnessofdeath，andlovedtoputitsterrorspithilybeforethechurchyardloiterer；hewasbrimfulofroughhintsuponmortality，andanydeadfarmerwasseizedupontobeatext。TheclassicalexamplesofthisartareinGreyfriars。Intheirtime，theseweredoubtlesscostlymonuments，andreckonedofaveryelegantproportionbycontemporaries；andnow，whentheeleganceisnotsoapparent，thesignificanceremains。YoumayperhapslookwithasmileontheprofusionofLatinmottoes-somecrawlingendwiseuptheshaftofapillar，someissuingonascrollfromangels’trumpets-ontheemblematichorrors，thefiguresrisingheadlessfromthegrave，andallthetraditionalingenuitiesinwhichitpleasedourfatherstosetforththeirsorrowforthedeadandtheirsenseofearthlymutability。Butitisnotaheartysortofmirth。Eachornamentmayhavebeenexecutedbythemerriestapprentice，whistlingashepliedthemallet；
buttheoriginalmeaningofeach，andthecombinedeffectofsomanyoftheminthisquietenclosure，isserioustothepointofmelancholy。
Roundagreatpartofthecircuit，housesofalowclasspresenttheirbackstothechurchyard。Onlyafewinchesseparatethelivingfromthedead。Here，awindowispartlyblockedupbythepedimentofatomb；there，wherethestreetfallsfarbelowthelevelofthegraves，achimneyhasbeentrainedupthebackofamonument，andaredpotlooksvulgarlyoverfrombehind。Adampsmellofthegraveyardfindsitswayintohouseswhereworkmensitatmeat。Domesticlifeonasmallscalegoesforwardvisiblyatthewindows。Theverysolitudeandstillnessoftheenclosure，whichliesapartfromthetown’straffic，servestoaccentuatethecontrast。Asyouwalkuponthegraves，youseechildrenscatteringcrumbstofeedthesparrows；youhearpeoplesingingorwashingdishes，orthesoundoftearsandcastigation；thelinenonaclothes-poleflapsagainstfunerealsculpture；orperhapsthecatslipsoverthelintelanddescendsonamemorialurn。Andasthereisnothingelseastir，theseincongruoussightsandnoisestakeholdontheattentionandexaggeratethesadnessoftheplace。
Greyfriarsiscontinuallyoverrunbycats。Ihaveseenoneafternoon，asmanyasthirteenofthemseatedonthegrassbesideoldMilne，theMasterBuilder，allsleekandfat，andcomplacentlyblinking，asiftheyhadfeduponstrangemeats。OldMilnewaschauntingwiththesaints，aswemayhope，andcaredlittleforthecompanyabouthisgrave；butIconfessthespectaclehadanuglysideforme；andIwasgladtostepforwardandraisemyeyestowheretheCastleandtheroofsoftheOldTown，andthespireoftheAssemblyHall，stooddeployedagainsttheskywiththecolourlessprecisionofengraving。Anopenoutlookistobedesiredfromachurchyard，andasightoftheskyandsomeoftheworld’sbeautyrelievesamindfrommorbidthoughts。
Ishallneverforgetonevisit。Itwasagrey，droppingday；thegrasswasstrungwithrain-drops；andthepeopleinthehouseskepthangingouttheirshirtsandpetticoatsandangrilytakingtheminagain，astheweatherturnedfromwettofairandbackagain。Agrave-
digger，andafriendofhis，agardenerfromthecountry，accompaniedmeintooneafteranotherofthecellsandlittlecourtyardsinwhichitgratifiedthewealthyofolddaystoenclosetheiroldbonesfromneighbourhood。
Inone，underasortofshrine，wefoundaforlornhumaneffigy，veryrealisticallyexecuteddowntothedetailofhisribbedstockings，andholdinginhishandaticketwiththedateofhisdemise。Helookedmostpitifulandridiculous，shutupbyhimselfinhisaristocraticprecinct，likeabadoldboyoraninferiorforgottendeityunderanewdispensation；theburdocksgrewfamiliarlyabouthisfeet，theraindrippedallroundhim；andtheworldmaintainedthemostentireindifferenceastowhohewasorwhitherhehadgone。Inanother，avaultedtomb，handsomeexternallybuthorribleinsidewithdampandcobwebs，therewerethreemoundsofblackearthandanuncoveredthighbone。Thiswastheplaceofinterment，itappeared，ofafamilywithwhomthegardenerhadbeenlonginservice。Hewasamongoldacquaintances。’This’llbeMissMarg’et’s，’saidhe，givingtheboneafriendlykick。’Theauld-！’Ihavealwaysanuncomfortablefeelinginagraveyard，atsightofsomanytombstoperpetuatememoriesbestforgotten；
butIneverhadtheimpressionsostronglyasthatday。
Peoplehadbeenatsomeexpenseinboththesecases：toprovokeamelancholyfeelingofderisionintheone，andaninsultingepithetintheother。Theproperinscriptionforthemostpartofmankind，Ibegantothink，isthecynicaljeer，CRASTIBI。That，ifanything，willstopthemouthofacarper；sinceitbothadmitstheworstandcarriesthewartriumphantlyintotheenemy’scamp。
Greyfriarsisaplaceofmanyassociations。Therewasonewindowinahouseatthelowerend，nowdemolished，whichwaspointedouttomebythegravediggerasaspotoflegendaryinterest。Burke，theresurrectionman，infamousforsomanymurdersatfiveshillingsa-head，usedtositthereat，withpipeandnightcap，towatchburialsgoingforwardonthegreen。
Inatombhigherup，whichmustthenhavebeenbutnewlyfinished，JohnKnox，accordingtothesameinformant，hadtakenrefugeinaturmoiloftheReformation。BehindthechurchisthehauntedmausoleumofSirGeorgeMackenzie：
BloodyMackenzie，LordAdvocateintheCovenantingtroublesandauthorofsomepleasingsentimentsontoleration。Here，inthelastcentury，anoldHeriot’sHospitalboyonceharbouredfromthepursuitofthepolice。TheHospitalisnextdoortoGreyfriars-acourtlybuildingamonglawns，where，onFounder’sDay，youmayseeamultitudeofchildrenplayingKiss-in-the-
RingandRoundtheMulberry-bush。Thus，whenthefugitivehadmanagedtoconcealhimselfinthetomb，hisoldschoolmateshadahundredopportunitiestobringhimfood；andtherehelayinsafetytillashipwasfoundtosmugglehimabroad。Buthismusthavebeenindeedaheartofbrass，toliealldayandnightalonewiththedeadpersecutor；andotherladswerefarfromemulatinghimincourage。Whenaman’ssouliscertainlyinhell，hisbodywillscarceliequietinatombhowevercostly；
sometimeorotherthedoormustopen，andthereprobatecomeforthintheabhorredgarmentsofthegrave。ItwasthoughtahighpieceofprowesstoknockattheLordAdvocate’smausoleumandchallengehimtoappear。
’BluidyMackingie，comeootifyedar’！’sangthefool-
hardyurchins。ButSirGeorgehadotheraffairsonhand；
andtheauthorofanessayontolerationcontinuestosleeppeacefullyamongthemanywhomhesointolerantlyhelpedtoslay。
ForthisINFELIXCAMPUS，asitisdubbedinoneofitsowninscriptions-aninscriptionoverwhichDr。
Johnsonpassedacriticaleye-isinmanywayssacredtothememoryofthemenwhomMackenziepersecuted。Itwashere，ontheflattombstones，thattheCovenantwassignedbyanenthusiasticpeople。Inthelongarmofthechurch-yardthatextendstoLauriston，theprisonersfromBothwellBridge-fedonbreadandwaterandguarded，lifeforlife，byvigilantmarksmen-layfivemonthslookingforthescaffoldortheplantations。AndwhilethegoodworkwasgoingforwardintheGrassmarket，idlersinGreyfriarsmighthaveheardthethrobofthemilitarydrumsthatdrownedthevoicesofthemartyrs。
Noristhisall：fordowninthecornerfarthestfromSirGeorge，therestandsamonumentdedicated，inuncouthCovenantingverse，toallwholosttheirlivesinthatcontention。ThereisnomoorsmanshotinasnowshowerbesideIrongrayorCo’monell；thereisnotoneofthetwohundredwhoweredrownedofftheOrkneys；norsomuchasapoor，over-driven，CovenantingslaveintheAmericanplantations；butcanlayclaimtoashareinthatmemorial，and，ifsuchthingsinterestjustmenamongtheshades，canboasthehasamonumentonearthaswellasJuliusCaesarorthePharaohs。Wheretheymayalllie，I
knownot。Far-scatteredbones，indeed！Butifthereadercarestolearnhowsomeofthem-orsomepartofsomeofthem-foundtheirwayatlengthtosuchhonourablesepulture，lethimlistentothewordsofonewhowastheircomradeinlifeandtheirapologistwhentheyweredead。SomeoftheinsanecontroversialmatterIomit，aswellassomedigressions，butleavetherestinPatrickWalker’slanguageandorthography：-
’ThenevertobeforgottenMr。JAMESRENWICKTOLD
me，thathewasWitnesstotheirPublicMurderattheGALLOWLEE，betweenLEITHandEDINBURGH，whenhesawtheHangmanhashandhaggoffalltheirFiveHeads，withPATRICKFOREMAN’SRightHand：TheirBodieswereallburiedattheGallowsFoot；theirHeads，withPATRICK’S
Hand，werebroughtandputuponfivePikesonthePLEASAUNCE-PORT……Mr。RENWICKtoldmealsothatitwasthefirstpublicActionthathisHandwasat，toconveenFriends，andlifttheirmurtheredBodies，andcarriedthemtotheWestChurchyardofEDINBURGH，’-notGreyfriars，thistime，-’andburiedthemthere。ThentheycameabouttheCity……andtookdowntheseFiveHeadsandthatHand；andDaybeingcome，theywentquicklyupthePLEASAUNCE；andwhentheycametoLAURISTOUNYards，upontheSouth-sideoftheCity，theydurstnotventure，beingsolight，togoandburytheirHeadswiththeirBodies，whichtheydesigned；itbeingpresentDeath，ifanyofthemhadbeenfound。ALEXANDER
TWEEDIE，aFriend，beingwiththem，whoatthatTimewasGardnerintheseYards，concludedtoburytheminhisYard，beinginaBox（wrappedinLinen），wheretheylay45Yearsexcept3Days，beingexecuteduponthe10thofOCTOBER1681，andfoundthe7thDayofOCTOBER1726。
ThatPieceofGroundlayforsomeYearsunlaboured；andtrenchingit，theGardnerfoundthem，whichaffrightedhimtheBoxwasconsumed。Mr。SCHAW，theOwneroftheseYards，causedliftthem，andlaythemuponaTableinhisSummer-house：Mr。SCHAW’Smotherwassokind，astocutoutaLinen-cloth，andcoverthem。TheylayTwelveDaysthere，whereallhadAccesstoseethem。ALEXANDER
TWEEDIE，theforesaidGardner，said，whendying，TherewasaTreasurehidinhisYard，butneitherGoldnorSilver。DANIELTWEEDIE，hisSon，camealongwithmetothatYard，andtoldmethathisFatherplantedawhiteRose-bushabovethem，andfartherdowntheYardaredRose-bush，whichweremorefruitfulthananyotherBushintheYard……Manycame’-toseetheheads-’outofCuriosity；yetIrejoicedtoseesomanyconcernedgraveMenandWomenfavouringtheDustofourMartyrs。
TherewereSixofusconcludedtoburythemupontheNineteenthDayofOCTOBER1726，andeveryOneofustoacquaintFriendsoftheDayandHour，beingWEDNESDAY，theDayoftheWeekonwhichmostofthemwereexecuted，andat4oftheClockatNight，beingtheHourthatmostofthemwenttotheirrestingGraves。WecausedmakeacompleatCoffinfortheminBlack，withfourYardsoffineLinen，thewaythatourMartyrsCorpsweremanaged……AccordinglywekepttheaforesaidDayandHour，anddoubledtheLinen，andlaidtheHalfofitbelowthem，theirnetherjawsbeingpartedfromtheirHeads；butbeingyoungMen，theirTeethremained。AllwereWitnesstotheHolesineachoftheirHeads，whichtheHangmanbrokewithhisHammer；andaccordingtotheBignessoftheirSculls，welaidtheJawstothem，anddrewtheotherHalfoftheLinenabovethem，andstuffttheCoffinwithShavings。SomepresthardtogothorowthechiefPartsoftheCityaswasdoneattheRevolution；butthiswerefused，consideringthatitlookedairyandfrothy，tomakesuchShowofthem，andinconsistentwiththesolidseriousObservingofsuchanaffecting，surprizingunheard-ofDispensation：ButtooktheordinaryWayofotherBurialsfromthatPlace，towit，wewenteasttheBackoftheWall，andinatBRISTO-PORT，anddowntheWaytotheHeadoftheCOWGATE，andturneduptotheChurch-
yard，wheretheywereinterredclosstotheMartyrsTomb，withthegreatestMultitudeofPeopleOldandYoung，MenandWomen，Ministersandothers，thateverIsawtogether。’
Andsotheretheywereatlast，in’theirrestinggraves。’Solongasmendotheirduty，evenifitbegreatlyinamisapprehension，theywillbeleadingpatternlives；andwhetherornottheycometoliebesideamartyrs’monument，wemaybesuretheywillfindasafehavensomewhereintheprovidenceofGod。Itisnotwelltothinkofdeath，unlesswetemperthethoughtwiththatofheroeswhodespisedit。Uponwhatground，isofsmallaccount；ifitbeonlythebishopwhowasburnedforhisfaithintheantipodes，hismemorylightenstheheartandmakesuswalkundisturbedamonggraves。Andsothemartyrs’monumentisawholesome，heartsomespotinthefieldofthedead；andaswelookuponit，abraveinfluencecomestousfromthelandofthosewhohavewontheirdischargeand，inanotherphraseofPatrickWalker’s，got’cleanlyoffthestage。’
CHAPTERVI。
NEWTOWN-TOWNANDCOUNTRY。
ITisasmuchamatterofcoursetodecrytheNewTownastoexalttheOld；andthemostcelebratedauthoritieshavepickedoutthisquarterastheveryemblemofwhatiscondemnableinarchitecture。Muchmaybesaid，muchindeedhasbeensaid，uponthetext；buttotheunsophisticated，whocallanythingpleasingifitonlypleasesthem，theNewTownofEdinburghseems，initself，notonlygayandairy，buthighlypicturesque。
Anoldskipper，invinciblyignorantofalltheoriesofthesublimeandbeautiful，oncepropoundedashismostradiantnotionforParadise：’ThenewtownofEdinburgh，withthewindamatterofapointfree。’Hehasnowgonetothatspherewhereallgoodtarsarepromisedpleasantweatherinthesong，andperhapshisthoughtsflysomewhathigher。Buttherearebrightandtemperatedays-withsoftaircomingfromtheinlandhills，militarymusicsoundingbravelyfromthehollowofthegardens，theflagsallwavingonthepalacesofPrincesStreet-
whenIhaveseenthetownthroughasortofglory，andshakenhandsinsentimentwiththeoldsailor。Andindeed，foramanwhohasbeenmuchtumbledroundOrcadianskerries，whatscenecouldbemoreagreeabletowitness？Onsuchaday，thevalleywearsasurprisingairoffestival。Itseems（Idonotknowhowelsetoputmymeaning）asifitwereatrifletoogoodtobetrue。
ItiswhatParisoughttobe。Ithasthescenicqualitythatwouldbestsetoffalifeofunthinking，open-airdiversion。Itwasmeantbynaturefortherealisationofthesocietyofcomicoperas。Andyoucanimagine，iftheclimatewerebuttowardly，howalltheworldandhiswifewouldflockintothesegardensinthecooloftheevening，tohearcheerfulmusic，tosippleasantdrinks，toseethemoonrisefrombehindArthur’sSeatandshineuponthespiresandmonumentsandthegreentree-topsinthevalley。Alas！andthenextmorningtherainissplashingonthewindows，andthepassengersfleealongPrincesStreetbeforethegallopingsqualls。
Itcannotbedeniedthattheoriginaldesignwasfaultyandshort-sighted，anddidnotfullyprofitbythecapabilitiesofthesituation。Thearchitectwasessentiallyatownbird，andhelaidoutthemoderncitywithaviewtostreetscenery，andtostreetsceneryalone。Thecountrydidnotenterintohisplan；hehadneverliftedhiseyestothehills。Ifhehadsochosen，everystreetuponthenorthernslopemighthavebeenanobleterraceandcommandedanextensiveandbeautifulview。Butthespacehasbeentoocloselybuilt；manyofthehousesfrontthewrongway，intent，liketheManwiththeMuck-Rake，onwhatisnotworthobservation，andstandingdiscourteouslyback-foremostintheranks；and，inaword，itistoooftenonlyfromattic-windows，orhereandthereatacrossing，thatyoucangetalookbeyondthecityuponitsdiversifiedsurroundings。Butperhapsitisallthemoresurprising，tocomesuddenlyonacorner，andseeaperspectiveofamileormoreoffallingstreet，andbeyondthatwoodsandvillas，andabluearmofsea，andthehillsuponthefartherside。
Fergusson，ourEdinburghpoet，Burns’smodel，oncesawabutterflyattheTownCross；andthesightinspiredhimwithaworthlesslittleode。Thispaintedcountryman，thedandyoftherosegarden，lookedfarabroadinsuchahummingneighbourhood；andyoucanfancywhatmoralconsiderationsayouthfulpoetwouldsupply。Buttheincident，inafancifulsortofway，ischaracteristicoftheplace。Intonoothercitydoesthesightofthecountryentersofar；ifyoudonotmeetabutterfly，youshallcertainlycatchaglimpseoffar-
awaytreesuponyourwalk；andtheplaceisfulloftheatretricksinthewayofscenery。Youpeepunderanarch，youdescendstairsthatlookasiftheywouldlandyouinacellar，youturntotheback-windowofagrimytenementinalane：-andbehold！youareface-to-facewithdistantandbrightprospects。Youturnacorner，andthereisthesungoingdownintotheHighlandhills。
Youlookdownanalley，andseeshipstackingfortheBaltic。
ForthecountrypeopletoseeEdinburghonherhill-
tops，isonething；itisanotherforthecitizen，fromthethickofhisaffairs，tooverlookthecountry。Itshouldbeagenialandamelioratinginfluenceinlife；itshouldpromptgoodthoughtsandremindhimofNature’sunconcern：thathecanwatchfromdaytoday，ashetrotsofficeward，howtheSpringgreenbrightensinthewoodorthefieldgrowsblackunderamovingploughshare。Ihavebeentempted，inthisconnexion，todeploretheslenderfacultiesofthehumanrace，withitspenny-whistleofavoice，itsdullcars，anditsnarrowrangeofsight。Ifyoucouldseeaspeoplearetoseeinheaven，ifyouhadeyessuchasyoucanfancyforasuperiorrace，ifyoucouldtakeclearnoteoftheobjectsofvision，notonlyafewyards，butafewmilesfromwhereyoustand：-thinkhowagreeablyyoursightwouldbeentertained，howpleasantlyyourthoughtswouldbediversified，asyouwalkedtheEdinburghstreets！Foryoumightpause，insomebusinessperplexity，inthemidstofthecitytraffic，andperhapscatchtheeyeofashepherdashesatdowntobreatheuponaheatheryshoulderofthePentlands；orperhapssomeurchin，clamberinginacountryelm，wouldputasidetheleavesandshowyouhisflushedandrusticvisage；orafisherracingseawards，withthetillerunderhiselbow，andthesailsoundinginthewind，wouldflingyouasalutationfrombetweenAnst’erandtheMay。
Tobeoldisnotthesamethingastobepicturesque；norbecausetheOldTownbearsastrangephysiognomy，doesitatallfollowthattheNewTownshalllookcommonplace。Indeed，apartfromantiquehouses，itiscurioushowmuchdescriptionwouldapplycommonlytoeither。Thesamesuddenaccidentsofground，asimilardominatingsiteabovetheplain，andthesamesuperpositionofonerankofsocietyoveranother，aretobeobservedinboth。Thus，thebroadandcomelyapproachtoPrincesStreetfromtheeast，linedwithhotelsandpublicoffices，makesaleapoverthegorgeoftheLowCalton；ifyoucastaglanceovertheparapet，youlookdirectintothatsunlessanddisreputableconfluentofLeithStreet；andthesametallhousesopenuponboththoroughfares。ThisisonlytheNewTownpassingoverheadaboveitsowncellars；walking，sotospeak，overitsownchildren，asisthewayofcitiesandthehumanrace。ButattheDeanBridge，youmaybeholdaspectacleofamorenovelorder。Theriverrunsatthebottomofadeepvalley，amongrocksandbetweengardens；
thecrestofeitherbankisoccupiedbysomeofthemostcommodiousstreetsandcrescentsinthemoderncity；andahandsomebridgeunitesthetwosummits。Overthis，everyafternoon，privatecarriagesgospinningby，andladieswithcard-casespasstoandfroaboutthedutiesofsociety。Andyetdownbelow，youmaystillsee，withitsmillsandfoamingweir，thelittleruralvillageofDean。Modernimprovementhasgoneoverheadonitshigh-
levelviaduct；andtheextendedcityhascleanlyoverleapt，andleftunaltered，whatwasoncethesummerretreatofitscomfortablecitizens。Everytownembraceshamletsinitsgrowth；Edinburghherselfhasembracedagoodfew；butitisstrangetoseeonestillsurviving-
andtoseeitsomehundredsoffeetbelowyourpath。IsitTorredelGrecothatisbuiltaboveburiedHerculaneum？Herculaneumwasdeadatleast；butthesunstillshinesupontheroofsofDean；thesmokestillrisesthriftilyfromitschimneys；thedustymillercomestohisdoor，looksatthegurglingwater，hearkenstotheturningwheelandthebirdsabouttheshed，andperhapswhistlesanairofhisowntoenrichthesymphony-foralltheworldasifEdinburghwerestilltheoldEdinburghontheCastleHill，andDeanwerestillthequietestofhamletsburiedamileorsointhegreencountry。
ItisnotsolongagosincemagisterialDavidHumelenttheauthorityofhisexampletotheexodusfromtheOldTown，andtookuphisnewabodeinastreetwhichisstill（sooddlymayajestbecomeperpetuated）knownasSaintDavidStreet。Noristhetownsolargebutaholidayschoolboymayharryabird’snestwithinhalfamileofhisowndoor。Thereareplacesthatstillsmelloftheploughinmemory’snostrils。Here，onehadheardablackbirdonahawthorn；there，anotherwastakenonsummereveningstoeatstrawberriesandcream；andyouhaveseenawavingwheatfieldonthesiteofyourpresentresidence。ThememoriesofanEdinburghboyarebutpartlymemoriesofthetown。Ilookbackwithdelightonmanyanescaladeofgardenwalls；manyarambleamonglilacsfullofpipingbirds；manyanexplorationinobscurequartersthatwereneithertownnorcountry；andIthinkthatbothformycompanionsandmyself，therewasaspecialinterest，apointofromance，andasentimentasofforeigntravel，whenwehitinourexcursionsonthebutt-endofsomeformerhamlet，andfoundafewrusticcottagesembeddedamongstreetsandsquares。ThetunneltotheScotlandStreetStation，thesightofthetrainsshootingoutofitsdarkmawwiththetwoguardsuponthebrake，thethoughtofitslengthandthemanyponderousedificesandopenthoroughfaresabove，werecertainlythingsofparamountimpressivenesstoayoungmind。Itwasasubterraneanpassage，althoughofalargerborethanwewereaccustomedtoinAinsworth’snovels；andthesetwowords，’subterreaneanpassage，’
wereinthemselvesanirresistibleattraction，andseemedtobringusnearerinspirittotheheroeswelovedandtheblackrascalswesecretlyaspiredtoimitate。ToscaletheCastleRockfromWestPrincesStreetGardens，andlayatriumphalhandagainsttherampartitself，wastotasteahighorderofromanticpleasure。Andthereareothersightsandexploitswhichcrowdbackuponmymindunderaverystrongilluminationofrememberedpleasure。Buttheeffectofnotoneofthemallwillcomparewiththediscoverer’sjoy，andthesenseofoldTimeandhisslowchangesonthefaceofthisearth，withwhichIexploredsuchcornersasCannonmillsorWaterLane，orthenuggetofcottagesatBroughtonMarket。
Theyweremoreruralthantheopencountry，andgaveagreaterimpressionofantiquitythantheoldestLANDupontheHighStreet。Theytoo，likeFergusson’sbutterfly，hadaquaintairofhavingwanderedfarfromtheirownplace；theylookedabashedandhomely，withtheirgablesandtheircreepingplants，theiroutsidestairsandrunningmill-streams；therewerecornersthatsmeltliketheendofthecountrygardenwhereIspentmyAprils；
andthepeoplestoodtogossipattheirdoors，astheymighthavedoneinColintonorCramond。
Inagreatmeasurewemay，andshall，eradicatethishauntingflavourofthecountry。ThelastelmisdeadinElmRow；andthevillasandtheworkmen’squartersspreadapaceonallthebordersofthecity。Wecancutdownthetrees；wecanburythegrassunderdeadpaving-
stones；wecandrivebriskstreetsthroughalloursleepyquarters；andwemayforgetthestoriesandtheplaygroundsofourboyhood。Butwehavesomepossessionsthatnoteventheinfuriatezealofbuilderscanutterlyabolishanddestroy。Nothingcanabolishthehills，unlessitbeacataclysmofnaturewhichshallsubvertEdinburghCastleitselfandlayallherfloridstructuresinthedust。AndaslongaswehavethehillsandtheFirth，wehaveafamousheritagetoleaveourchildren。
Ourwindows，atnoexpensetous，aremostartfullystainedtorepresentalandscape。AndwhentheSpringcomesround，andthehawthornsbegintoflower，andthemeadowstosmellofyounggrass，eveninthethickestofourstreets，thecountryhilltopsfindoutayoungman’seyes，andsethisheartbeatingfortravelandpureair。
CHAPTERVII。
THEVILLAQUARTERS。
MR。RUSKIN’SdenunciationoftheNewTownofEdinburghincludes，asIhavehearditrepeated，nearlyallthestoneandlimewehavetoshow。Manyhoweverfindagrandairandsomethingsettledandimposinginthebetterparts；anduponmany，asIhavesaid，theconfusionofstylesinducesanagreeablestimulationofthemind。Butuponthesubjectofourrecentvillaarchitecture，IamfranklyreadytominglemytearswithMr。Ruskin’s，anditisasubjectwhichmakesoneenviousofhislargedeclamatoryandcontroversialeloquence。
Daybyday，onenewvilla，onenewobjectofoffence，isaddedtoanother；allaroundNewingtonandMorningside，thedismalleststructureskeepspringinguplikemushrooms；thepleasanthillsareloadedwiththem，eachimpudentlysquattedinitsgarden，eachroofedandcarryingchimneyslikeahouse。Andyetaglanceofaneyediscoverstheirtruecharacter。Theyarenothouses；
fortheywerenotdesignedwithaviewtohumanhabitation，andtheinternalarrangementsare，astheytellme，fantasticallyunsuitedtotheneedsofman。
Theyarenotbuildings；foryoucanscarcelysayathingisbuiltwhereeverymeasurementisinclamantdisproportionwithitsneighbour。Theybelongtonostyleofart，onlytoaformofbusinessmuchtoberegretted。