——allhavelefttheirrecordsorbeencelebratedatKarnak。PurposelyImingledtheminmymind——didnotattempttoputthemintheirproperorder，oreventodisentanglegodsandgoddessesfromconquerorsandkings。InthewarmandseductivenightKhunswhisperedtome：\"AslongagoatBekhtenIexorcisedthedemonfromthesufferingPrincess，sonowIexorcisefromtheseruinsallspiritsbutmyown。To-nighttheseruinsshallsuggestnothingbutmajesty，tranquillity，andbeauty。
TheirrecordsareforRa，andmustbestudiedbyhisrays。Inminetheyshallspeaknottotheintellectual，butonlytotheemotionsandthesoul。\"
AndpresentlyIwentdown，andyieldingacompleteandhappyobediencetoKhuns，Iwanderedalongthroughthestupendousvestigesofpasteras，deadambitions，vanishedglory，andlong-outwornbelief，andI
ignorederas，ambitions，glory，andbelief，andthoughtonlyofform，andheight，ofthemiracleofblacknessagainstsilver，andofthepathosofstatueswhoseever-openeyesatnight，whenoneisnearthem，suggesttheworkingofsomeevilspell，perpetualwatchfulness，combinedwitheternalinactivity，theunslumberingmindcagedinthebodythatisparalysed。
ThereisatempleatKarnakthatIlove，andIscarcelyknowwhyI
careforitsomuch。ItisontherightofthesolitarylotuscolumnbeforeyoucometotheterrifichallofSeti。Somepeoplepassitby，havingbutlittletime，andbeinghypnotized，itseems，bythemoreastoundingruinthatliesbeyondit。Andperhapsitwouldbewell，onafirstvisit，toenteritlast;toletitsinfluencebethefinalonetorestuponyourspirit。ThisisthetempleofRamesesIII。，abrownplaceofcalmandretirement，anineffableplaceofpeace。Yes，thoughthebirdsloveitandfillitoftenwiththeirvoices，itisasanctuaryofpeace。Uponthefloorthesoftsandlies，placingsilencebeneathyourfootsteps。Thepalebrownofwallsandcolumns，almostyellowinthesunshine，isdelicateandsoothing，andinclinesthehearttocalm。Delicious，suggestiveofabeautifultapestry，richandornate，yetalwaysquiet，arethebrownreliefsuponthestone。Whatarethey？Doesitmatter？Theysoftenthewalls，makethemmorepersonal，moretender。Thatsurelyistheirmission。Thistempleholdsformeaspell。AssoonasIenterit，Ifeelthetouchofthelotus，asifaninvisibleandkindlyhandsweptablossomlightlyacrossmyfaceanddownwardtomyheart。Thiscourtyard，thesesmallchambersbeyondit，thatlastdoorwayframingalovelydarkness，soothemeevenmorethantheterra-cottahermitagesoftheCertosaofPavia。Andallthestatuesherearecalmwithanirrevocablecalmness，faithfulthroughpassingyearswithaverysoberfaithfulnesstothetempletheyadorn。Innootherplace，onefeelsit，couldtheybethusatpeace，withhandscrossedforeverupontheirbreasts，whicharetornbynoanxieties，thrilledbynojoys。Asonestandsamongthemorsittingonthebaseofacolumninthechamberthatliesbeyondthem，looksonthemfromalittledistance，theirattitudeislikeasummonstomentocontendnomore，tobestill，toenterintorest。
CometothistemplewhenyouleavethehallofSeti。Thereyouareinaplaceoftriumph。Scarlet，somesay，isthecolorofagreatnotesoundedonabugle。Thishallislikeabugle-callofthepast，thrillingevennowdownalltheageswithatriumphthatissurelygreaterthananyothertriumphs。Itsuggestsblaze——blazeofscarlet，blazeofbugle，blazeofglory，blazeoflifeandtime，ofambitionandachievement。Inthesecolumns，intheputtingupofthem，deadmensoughttoclimbtosunandstars，limitlessindesire，limitlessinindustry，limitlessinwill。Andatthetopsofthecolumnsbloomsthelotus，thesymbolofrising。Whatatriumphinstonethishallwasonce，whatatriumphinstoneitsruinisto-day！Perhaps，amongtemples，itisthemostwondrousthinginallEgypt，asitwas，nodoubt，themostwondroustempleintheworld;amongtemplesIsay，fortheSphinxisofallthemarvelsofEgyptbyfarthemostmarvellous。
Thegrandeurofthishallalmostmovesonetotears，likethemarchingpastofconquerors，stirstheheartwithleapingthrillsatthecapacitiesofmen。Throughthethicketofcolumns，tallasforesttrees，theintenseblueoftheAfricanskystaresdown，andtheirgreatshadowsliealongthewarmandsunlitground。Listen！Therearevoiceschanting。Menareworkinghere——workingasmenworkedhowmanythousandsofyearsago。ButthesearecallingupontheMohammedan’sgodastheyslowlydragtotheappointedplacesthemightyblocksofstone。Anditisto-dayaFrenchmanwhooverseesthem。
\"Help！Help！Allahgiveushelp！
Help！Help！Allahgiveushelp！\"
Thedustfliesupabouttheirnakedfeet。Triumphandwork;worksucceededbythetriumphallcansee。Iliketoheartheworkmen’svoiceswithinthehallofSeti。Iliketoseetheduststirredbytheirtrampingfeet。
AndthenIliketogooncemoretothelittletemple，toenterthroughitsdefacedgateway，tostandaloneinitssilencebetweentherowsofstatueswiththeirarmsfoldedupontheirquietbreasts，togazeintothetenderdarknessbeyond——thedarknessthatlooksconsecrated——tofeelthatpeaceismorewonderfulthantriumph，thattheendofthingsispeace。
Triumphanddeathlesspeace，thebugle-callandsilence——thesearethenotesofKarnak。
VIII
LUXOR
UponthewallofthegreatcourtofAmenhotepIII。inthetempleofLuxorthereisadeliciousdancingprocessioninhonorofRamesesII。
Itisveryfunnyandveryhappy;fullofthejoyoflife——asortofradiantcake-walkofoldEgyptiandays。Howsupplearethesedancers！
Theyseemtohavenobones。Oneafteranothertheycomeinlineuponthemightywall，andeachonebendsbackwardtothekneesoftheonewhofollows。AsIstoodandlookedatthemforthefirsttime，almostIheardthetwitterofflutes，therusticwailoftheAfricanhautboy，themonotonousboomofthederabukkeh，criesofafar-offgaietysuchasoneoftenhearsfromtheNilebynight。Butthesecriescamedownthelongavenuesofthecenturies;thisgaietywasdistantinthevastyhallsofthelong-deadyears。NevercanIthinkofLuxorwithoutthinkingofthosehappydancers，withoutthinkingofthelifethatgoesinthesunondancingfeet。
Thereareafewplacesintheworldthatoneassociateswithhappiness，thatoneremembersalwayswithasmile，alittlethrillattheheartthatwhispers\"Therejoyis。\"OfthesefewplacesLuxorisone——Luxorthehomeofsunshine，thesuaveabodeoflight，ofwarmth，ofthesweetdaysofgoldandsheeny，goldensunsets，ofsilver，shimmeringnightsthroughwhichthesongsoftheboatmenoftheNilegofloatingtothecourtsandthetombsofThebes。TherosesbloominLuxorunderthemightypalms。Alwayssurelybeneaththepalmstherearetheroses。Andthelateen-sailscomeuptheNile，lookinglikewhite-wingedpromisesoffuturegoldendays。Andatdawnonewakeswithhopeandhearsthesongsofthedawn;andatnoononedreamsofthehappinesstocome;andatsunsetoneissweptawayonthegoldintotheheartofthegoldenworld;andatnightonelooksatthestars，andeachstarisatwinklinghope。SoftaretheairsofLuxor;
thereisnoharshnessinthewindthatstirstheleavesofthepalms。
Andthelandissteepedinlight。FromLuxoronegoeswithregret。Onereturnstoitwithjoyondancingfeet。
OnedayIsatinthetemple，inthehugecourtwiththegreatdoublerowofcolumnsthatstandsonthebanksoftheNileandlookssosplendidfromit。Thepalebrownofthestonebecamealmostyellowinthesunshine。Fromtheriver，hiddenfrommestoleupthesongsoftheboatmen。NearerathandIheardpigeonscooing，cooinginthesun，asifalmosttooglad，andseekingtomanifesttheirgladness。Behindme，throughthecolumns，peepedsomehousesofthevillage：thewhitehomeofIbrahimAyyad，theperfectdragoman，grandsonofMustaphaAga，whoentertainedmeyearsago，andwhosehousestoodactuallywithintheprecinctsofthetemple;housesofotherfortunatedwellersinLuxorwhosenamesIdonotknow。ForthevillageofLuxorcrowdsboldlyaboutthetemple，andthechildrenplayinthedustalmostatthefootoftheobelisksandstatues。Highonabrownhumpofearthabuffalostoodalone，languishingserenelyinthesun，gazingatmethroughthecolumnswithlighteyesthatwerefullofasortoffollyofcontentment。Somegoatstrippedby，brownagainstthebrownstone——thedarkbrownearthofthenativehouses。Intimatelifewashere，strikingthenoteofcozinessofLuxor。HerewasnoneofthesadnessandthemajestyofDenderah。GrandaretheruinsofLuxor，nobleisthelineofcolumnsthatboldlyfrontstheNile，butTimehasgiventhemnakedtotheairandtothesun，tochildrenandtoanimals。
Insteadofbats，thepigeonsflyaboutthem。Thereisnodreadfuldarknessintheirsanctuaries。Beforethemthelifeoftheriver，behindthemthelifeofthevillageflowsandstirs。UponthemlooksdowntheMinaretofAbuHaggag;andasIsatinthesunshine，thewarmthofwhichbegantolessen，Isawuponitsloftycircularbalconythefigureofthemuezzin。Heleanedover，bendingtowardthetempleandthestatuesofRamesesII。andthehappydancersonthewall。Heopenedhislipsandcriedtothem：
\"Godisgreat。Godisgreat……IbearwitnessthatthereisnogodbutGod……IbearwitnessthatMohammedistheApostleofGod……Cometoprayer！Cometoprayer！……Godisgreat。Godisgreat。ThereisnogodbutGod。\"
Hecircledroundtheminaret。HecriedtotheNile。HecriedtotheColossisittingintheirplain，andtotheyellowprecipicesofthemountainsofLibya。HecriedtoEgypt：
\"Cometoprayer！Cometoprayer！ThereisnogodbutGod。ThereisnogodbutGod。\"
Thedaysofthegodsweredead，andtheirruinedtempleechoedwiththeproclamationoftheonegodoftheMoslemworld。\"Cometoprayer！
Cometoprayer！\"Thesunbegantosink。
\"Sunsetandeveningstar，andoneclearcallforme。\"
Thevoiceofthemuezzindiedaway。Therewasasilence;andthen，asifinanswertothecryfromtheminaret，IheardthechimeoftheangelusbellfromtheCatholicchurchofLuxor。
\"Twilightandeveningbell，andafterthatthedark。\"
Isatverystill。Thelightwasfading;alltheyellowwasfading，too，fromthecolumnsandthetemplewalls。Istayedtillitwasdark;
andwiththedarktheoldgodsseemedtoresumetheirinterruptedsway。Andsurelythey，too，calledtoprayer。FordonottheseruinsofoldEgypt，likethemuezzinupontheminaret，liketheangelusbellinthechurchtower，callonetoprayerinthenight？Sowonderfularetheyunderstarsandmoonthattheystirthefleshlyandtheworldlydesiresthatlielikedriftedleavesaboutthereverenceandtheaspirationthatarethehiddencoreoftheheart。Anditisreleasedfromitsburden;anditawakesandprays。
Amun-Ra，Mut，andKhuns，thekingofthegods，hiswife，motherofgods，andthemoongod，weretheThebantriadtowhomtheholybuildingsofThebesonthetwobanksoftheNilewerededicated;andthistempleofLuxor，the\"HouseofAmunintheSouthernApt，\"wasbuiltfifteenhundredyearsbeforeChristbyAmenhotepIII。RamesesII。，thatvehementbuilder，addedtoitimmensely。OnewalksamonghistraceswhenonewalksinLuxor。Andhere，asatDenderah，Christianshaveletloosethefurythatshouldhavehadnoplaceintheirreligion。Churchesfortheirworshiptheymadeindifferentpartsofthetemple，andwhentheywerenotpraying，theybrokeinpiecesstatues，defacedbas-reliefs，andsmashedupshrineswithavigorquiteasgreatasthatdisplayedinpreservationbyChristiansofto-day。Nowtimehascalledatruce。Safearethestatuesthatareleft。Anddaybydaytwogreatreligions，almostasifinhappybrotherlylove，sendforththeirsummonsbythetemplewalls。Andjustbeyondthosewalls，uponthehill，thereisaCopticchurch。PeacereignsinhappyLuxor。Thelionliesdownwiththelamb，andthechild，ifitwill，mayharmlesslyputitshandintothecockatrice’sden。
Perhapsbecauseitissosurrounded，sohauntedbylifeandfamiliarthings，becausethepigeonsflyaboutit，thebuffalostaresintoit，thegoatsstirupthedustbesideitscolumns，thetwitteringvoicesofwomenmakeamusicnearitscourts，manypeoplepaylittleheedtothisgreattemple，gainbutasmallimpressionfromit。ItdecoratesthebankoftheNile。Youcanseeitfromthedahabiyehs。Formanythatisenough。Yetthetempleisanobleone，and，forme，itgainsadefiniteattractionallitsownfromthebusylifeaboutit，thecheerfulhumandstir。Andifyouwantfullytorealizeitsdignity，youcanalwaysvisititbynight。Thenthecriesfromthevillagearehushed。Thehousesshownolights。OnlythevoicesfromtheNilestealuptotheobeliskofRameses，tothepylonfromwhichtheflagsofThebesonceflewonfestaldays，totheshrineofAlexandertheGreat，withitsvulturesanditsstars，andtotheredgranitestatuesofRamesesandhiswives。
Theselastareasexpressiveasandofcoursemoredefinitethanmydancers。Theyarefullofcharacter。Theyseemtobreatheouttheessenceofavanisheddomesticity。Colossalarethestatuesoftheking，solid，powerful，andtremendous，boldlyfacingtheworldwiththecalmofonewhowasthought，andpossiblythoughthimself，tobenotmuchlessthanadeity。Anduponeachpedestal，shrinkingdelicatelyback，wasoncealittlewife。Somelittlewivesareleft。
Theyaredeliciousintheirmodesty。Eachstandsawayfromtheking，shyly，respectfully。Eachissosmallastobebelowhisdown-
stretchedarm。Each，withasurelyfurtivegesture，reachesoutherrighthand，andattainstheswellingcalfofhernoblehusband’sleg。
Plumparetheirlittlefaces，butnotbad-looking。Onecannotpitytheking。Nordoesonepitythem。Forthesewerenot\"Lesdesenchantees，\"
therestless，sad-heartedwomenofanEasternworldthatknowstoomuch。Theirlongingssurelycannothavebeenverygreat。TheirworldwasprobablyboundedbythecalfofRameses’sleg。Thatwas\"thefarhorizon\"ofthelittleplump-facedwives。
Thehappydancersandthehumblewives，theyalwayscomebeforemewiththetempleofLuxor——joyanddiscretionsidebyside。Andwiththem，tomyears，thetwovoicesseemtocome，muezzinandangelusbell，minglingnotinwar，butpeace。WhenIthinkofthistemple，I
thinkofitsjoyandpeacefarlessthanofitsmajesty。
Andyetitismajestic。Lookatit，asIhaveoftendone，towardsunsetfromthewesternbankoftheNile，orclimbthemoundbeyonditsnorthernend，wherestandsthegrandentrance，andyourealizeatonceitsnobilityandsolemnsplendor。Fromthe/Loulia’s/deckitwasaprocessionofgreatcolumns;thatwasall。Butthedecorativeeffectofthesecolumns，soaringabovetheriveranditsvividlife，isfine。
Bydayallisturmoilontheriver-bank。Bargesareunloading，steamersarearriving，andthrongsofdonkey-boysanddragomansgodowninhastetomeetthem。Servantsruntoandfroonerrandsfromthemanydahabiyehs。Bathersleapintothebrownwaters。Thenativecraftpassbywiththeirenormoussailsoutspreadtocatchthewind，bearingserriedmobsofmen，andblack-robedwomen，andlaughing，singingchildren。Theboatmenofthehotelssingmonotonouslyastheyloungeinthebig，whiteboatswaitingfortravellerstoMedinet-Abu，totheRamesseum，toKurna，andthetombs。Andjustabovethemrisethelonglinesofcolumns，ancient，tranquil，andremote——infinitelyremote，foralltheirnearness，castingdownuponthesunlitgaietythelongshadowofthepast。
Fromtheedgeofthemoundwherestandsthenativevillagetheeffectofthetempleismuchlessdecorative，butitsdetailedgrandeurcanbebettergraspedfromthere;forfromthereoneseesthegreattowersofthepropylon，tworowsofmightycolumns，theredgraniteObeliskofRamesesthegreat，andtheblackgranitestatuesoftheking。Ontherightoftheentranceagiantstands，ontheleftoneisseated，andalittlefartherawayathirdemergesfromtheground，whichreachestoitsmightybreast。
Andtherethechildrenplayperpetually。AndtheretheEgyptianssingtheirserenades，makingthepipeswailandstrikingthederabukkeh;
andtherethewomengossipandtwitterlikethebirds。Andthebuffalocomestotakehissun-bath;andthegoatsandthecurly，brownsheeppassinsprightlyandcalmprocessions。Theobeliskthere，likeitsbrotherinParis，presidesoveracheerfulnessoflife;butitisalifethatseemsakintoit，notalienfromit。AndthekingwatchesthesimplicityofthiskeenexistenceofEgyptofto-dayfaruptheNilewithacalmthatonedoesnotfearmaybebrokenbyunsympatheticoutrage，orbyanyvisionoftooperpetualforeignlife。ForthetouristseachyeararebutanepisodeinUpperEgypt。Stilltheshadoof-mansingshisancientsong，violentandpathetic，boldastheburningsun-rays。Stillthefellaheenploughwiththecamelyokedwiththeox。Stillthewomenarecoveredwithprotectiveamuletsandholdtheirblackdraperiesintheirmouths。TheintimatelifeoftheNileremainsthesame。Andthatlifeobeliskandkinghaveknownforhowmany，manyyears！
AndsoIlovetothinkofthisintimacyoflifeaboutthetempleofthehappydancersandthehumblelittlewives，anditseemstometostrikethekeynoteofthegoldencozinessofLuxor。
IX
COLOSSIOFMEMNON
Nevertheless，sometimesonelikestoescapefromthethingoneloves，andtherearehourswhenthegayvoicesofLuxorfatiguetheears，whenonedesiresagreatcalm。Thentherearesilentvoicesthatsummononeacrosstheriver，whenthedawnisbreakingoverthehillsoftheArabiandesert，orwhenthesunisdecliningtowardtheLibyanmountains——voicesissuingfromlipsofstone，fromthetwilightofsanctuaries，fromthedepthsofrock-hewntombs。
ThepeaceoftheplainofThebesintheearlymorningisveryrareandveryexquisite。Itisnotthepeaceofthedesert，butrather，perhaps，thepeaceoftheprairie——anatmospheretender，delicatelythrilling，softlybright，hopefulinitsgleamingcalm。OftenandoftenhaveIleftthe/Loulia/veryearlymooredagainstthelongsandisletthatfacesLuxorwhentheNilehasnotsubsided，Ihaverowedacrossthequietwaterthatdividedmefromthewesternbank，and，withahappyheart，IhaveenteredintothelovelypeaceofthegreatspacesthatstretchfromtheColossiofMemnontotheNile，tothemountains，southwardtowardArmant，northwardtoKerekten，toDanfik，toGueziret-Meteira。Thinkofthecolorofyoungclover，ofyoungbarley，ofyoungwheat;thinkofthetimbreofthereedflute’svoice，thin，clear，andfrailwiththefrailtyofdewdrops;thinkofthetorrentsofspringrushingthroughtheveinsofagreat，wideland，andgrowingalmoststillatlastontheirjourney。Spring，youwillsay，perhaps，andhighNilenotyetsubsided！ButEgyptisthefavoredlandofaspringthatisalreadyalertattheendofNovember，andinDecemberispushingforthitsgreen。TheNilehassunkawayfromthefeetoftheColossithatithasbathedthroughmanydays。Ithasfreedtheplaintothefellaheen，thoughstillitkeepsmyislandinitsclasp。AndHapi，orKam-wra，the\"GreatExtender，\"andRa，havemadethiswonderfulspringtobloomonthedarkearthbeforetheChristian’sChristmas。
Whatapastoralitis，thisplainofThebes，inthedawnofday！Thinkofthereedflute，Ihavesaid，notbecauseyouwillhearit，asyouridetowardthemountains，butbecauseitsvoicewouldbeutterlyinplacehere，inthisarcadyofEgypt，playingnotarantella，butoneofthosesongs，halfbird-like，andhalfsadly，mysteriouslyhuman，whichcomefromthesouloftheEast。Insteadofit，youmaycatchdistantcriesfromthebankoftheriver，wheretheshadoof-mantoils，liftingeverthewaterandhisvoice，theonetoearth，theother，itseems，tosky;andthecreakinglayofthewater-wheel，whichpervadesUpperEgyptlikeanatmosphere，andwhich，thoughperhapsatfirstitirritates，atlastseemstoyouthesoundofthesouloftheriver，ofthesunshine，andthesoil。
Muchofthelandlookspainted。Soflatisit，soyoungarethegrowingcrops，thattheyarelikeacoatingofgreenpaintspreadoveramightycanvas。Butthedourariseshigherthantheheadsofthenakedchildrenwhostandamongittowatchyoucanterpast。Andinthefardistanceyouseedimgroupsoftrees——sycamoresandacacias，tamarisksandpalms。Beyondthemistheveryheartofthis\"landofsandandruinsandgold\";Medinet-Abu，theRamesseum，Deir-elMedinet，Kurna，Deir-el-Bahari，thetombsofthekings，thetombsofthequeensandoftheprinces。Inthestripofbarelandatthefootofthosehard，andyetpoeticmountains，havebeenduguptreasuresthefameofwhichhasgonetotheendsoftheworld。Butthisplain，wherethefellaheenarestoopingtothesoil，andthewomenarecarryingthewater-jars，andthechildrenareplayinginthedoura，andtheoxenandthecamelsareworkingwithploughsthatlooklikerelicsoffar-
offdays，isthepossessionofthetwogreatpresidingbeingswhomyouseefromanenormousdistance，theColossiofMemnon。AmenhotepIII。
putthemwheretheyare。Sowearetold。Butinthisearlymorningitisnotpossibletothinkofthemasbeingbroughttoanyplace。
Seated，theonebesidetheother，facingtheNileandthehomeoftherisingsun，theirimmenseaspectofpatiencesuggestswill，calmly，steadilyexercised，suggestschoice;that，forsomereason，asyetunknown，theychosetocometothisplain，thattheychoosesolemnlytoremainthere，waiting，whiletheharvestsgrowandaregatheredabouttheirfeet，whiletheNilerisesandsubsides，whiletheyearsandthegenerationscome，liketheharvests，andarestoredawayinthegranariesofthepast。Theircalmbroodsoverthisplain，givestoitapersonalatmospherewhichsetsitquiteapartfromeveryotherflatspaceoftheworld。ThereisnoplacethatIknowontheearthwhichhasthepeculiar，bright，ineffablecalmoftheplainoftheseColossi。Ittakesyouintoitsbreast，andyouliethereinthegrowingsunshinealmostasifyouwereachildlaidinthelapofoneofthem。Thatlegendofthesingingatdawnofthe\"vocalMemnon，\"howcouldithavearisen？Howcouldsuchcalmnesssing，suchpatienceeverfindavoice？UnliketheSphinx，whichbecomesevermoreimpressiveasyoudrawneartoit，andismostimpressivewhenyousitalmostatitsfeet，theColossiloseinpersonalityasyouapproachthemandcanseehowtheyhavebeendefaced。
Fromafaronefeelstheirminds，theirstrange，unearthlytemperamentscommandingthispastoral。Whenyouarebesidethem，thisfeelingdisappears。Theirfeaturesaregone，andthoughintheirattitudesthereispower，andthereissomethingthatawakensawe，theyaremorewonderfulasafar-offfeatureoftheplain。Theygainingrandeurfromthenightinstrangenessfromthemoonrise，perhapsspeciallywhentheNilecomestotheirfeet。Morethanthreethousandyearsold，theylooklesseternalthantheSphinx。Likethem，theSphinxiswaiting，butwithagreaterpurpose。TheSphinxreducesmanreallytonothingness。TheColossileavehimsomeremnantsofindividuality。OnecanconceiveofStraboandAEliusGallus，ofHadrianandSabina，ofotherswhocameoverthesunlitlandtoheartheunearthlysonginthedawn，beingofsome——notmuch，butstillofsome——importancehere。
BeforetheSphinxnooneisimportant。ButinthedistanceoftheplaintheColossishedarealmagicofcalmandsolemnpersonality，andsubtlyseemtomingletheirspiritwiththeflat，greenworld，sowide，sostill，sofecund，andsopeaceful;withthesoftairsthataresurelyscentedwithaneternalspringtime，andwiththelightthatthemorningrainsdownonwheatandclover，onIndiancornandbarley，andonbrownmenlaboring，who，perhaps，fromthepatienceoftheColossiinreposehavedrawnapatienceinlaborthathasinitsomethingnotlesssublime。
FromtheColossionegoesonwardtowardthetreesandthemountains，andverysoononecomestotheedgeofthatstrangeandfascinatingstripofbarrenlandwhichisstrewnwithtemplesandhoneycombedwithtombs。Thesunburnsdownonit。Theheatseemsthrownbackuponitbythewalloftawnymountainsthatboundsitonthewest。Itisdusty，itisarid;itishauntedbyswarmsofflies，bytheguardiansoftheruins，andbymenandboystryingtosellenormousscarabsandnecklacesandamulets，madeyesterday，andthedaybefore，inthemanufactoryofKurna。Frommanypointsitlooksnotunlikeastrangelyprolongedrubbish-heapinwhichbusygiantshavebeendiggingwithhugespades，makingmoundsandpits，cavernsandtrenches，pilinguphereamonstrousheapofstones，castingdownthereamightystatue。
Buthowitfascinates！Ofcurseoneknowswhatitmeans。OneknowsthatonthisstripoflandNavilledugoutatDeir-el-BaharithetempleofMentu-hotep，anddiscoveredlater，inhershrine，Hathor，thecow-goddess，withthelotus-plantsstreamingfromhersacredforeheadtoherfeet;thatlongbeforehimMarietteherebroughttothelightatDrah-abu’l-Neggahthetreasuresofkingsofthetwelfthandthirteenthdynasties;thatatthefootofthosetiger-coloredprecipicesTheodoreM。DavistheAmericanfoundthesepulcherofQueenHatshepsu，theQueenElizabethoftheoldEgyptianworld，and，later，thetombofYuaaandThuaa，theparentsofQueenThiy，containingmummy-casescoveredwithgold，jarsofoilandwine，gold，silver，andalabasterboxes，abeddecoratedwithgildedivoryachairwithgildedplasterreliefs，chairsofstate，andachariot;thathereMaspero，VictorLoret，BrugschBey，andotherpatientworkersgavetotheworldtombsthathadbeenhiddenandunknownforcenturies;thattheretothenorthisthetempleofKurna，andovertheretheRamesseum;thatthoserowsoflittlepillarscloseunderthemountain，andlookingstrangelymodern，arethepillarsofHatshepsu’stemple，whichbearsuponitswallsthepicturesoftheexpeditiontothehistoriclandofPunt;thatthekingswereburiedthere，andtherethequeensandtheprincesofthevanisheddynasties;thatbeyondtothewestisthetempleofDeir-el-Medinetwithitsjudgmentofthedead;thatherebythenativevillageisMedinet-Abu。Oneknowsthat，andsotheimaginationisawake，readytopaintthelilyandtogildthebeatengold。Butevenifonedidnotknow，Ithinkonewouldbefascinated。
Thisturmoilofsun-bakedearthandrock，grey，yellow，pink，orange，andred，awakensthecuriosity，summonstheloveofthestrange，suggeststhatitholdssecretstocharmthesoulsofmen。
X
MEDINET-ABU
AttheentrancetothetempleofMedinet-Abu，nearthesmallgroupsofpalmsandthefewbrownhouses，oftenhaveIturnedandlookedbackacrosstheplainbeforeenteringthroughthefirstbeautifuldoorway，toseethepatientbacksandrightsidesoftheColossi，thefar-off，dreamymountainsbeyondKarnakandtheNile。Andagain，whenIhaveenteredandwalkedalittledistance，Ihavelookedbackatthealmostmagicalpictureframedinthedoorway;atthebottomofthepicturealayerofbrownearth，thenastripofsharpgreen——thecultivatedground——thenablurofpaleyellow，thenadarknessoftrees，andjustthehintofahillfar，veryfaraway。Andalways，inlooking，Ihavethoughtofthe\"Sposalizio\"ofRaphaelintheBreraatMilan，ofthetinydreamofbluecountryframedbythetempledoorwaybeyondtheVirginandSaintJoseph。ThedoorwaysofthetemplesofEgyptareverynoble，andnowherehaveIbeenmorestruckbytheirnobilitythaninMedinet-Abu。Setinhugewallsofmassivemasonry，whichriseslightlyabovethemoneachside，withaprojectingcornice，intheirsimplicitytheylookextraordinarilyclassical，intheirsobrietymysterious，andintheirgreatsolidityquitewonderfullyelegant。Andtheyalwayssuggesttomethattheyaregivingaccesstocourtsandchamberswhichstill，eveninourtimes，arededicatedtosecretcults——tothecultsofIsis，ofHathor，andofOsiris。
ClosetotherightofthefrontofMedinet-Abutherearetreescoveredwithyellowflowers;beyondarefieldsofdoura。Behindthetempleisasterilitywhichmakesonethinkofmetal。Agreatcalmenfoldstheplace。ThebuildingsareofthesamecolorastheColossi。WhenI
speakofthebuildings，Iincludethegreattemple，thepavilionofRamesesIII。，andthelittletemple，whichtogethermaybesaidtoformMedinet-Abu。WhereasthetempleofLuxorseemstoopenitsarmstolife，andthegreatfascinationoftheRamesseumcomespartlyfromitsinvasionbyeverytravelingairandhappysun-ray，itsopennessandfreedom，Medinet-Abuimpressesbyitscolossalairofsecrecy，byitsfortress-likeseclusion。Itswallsareimmenselythick，andarecoveredwithfiguresthesamecolorasthewalls，someofthemverytall。Thick-set，massive，heavy，almostwarlikeitis。Twoseatedstatueswithin，statueswithanimals’faces，steel-colored，orperhapsalittledarkerthanthat，looklikesavagewardersreadytorepelintrusion。
Passingbetweenthem，delicatelyasAgag，oneentersanopenspacewithruins，upontherightofwhichisalow，smalltemple，greyinhue，andcoveredwithinscriptions，whichlooksalmostbowedunderitstremendousweightofyears。Fromthisdignified，thoughtiny，veterantherecomesaperpetualsoundofbirds。ThebirdsinEgypthavenoreverenceforage。NeverhaveIseenthemmorerestless，moregay，ormoreimpertinent，thanintheimmemorialruinsoftheancientland。
Beyondisanenormousportal，ontheloftyceilingofwhichstilllingertracesoffadedredandblue，whichgivesaccesstoagreathallwithrowsofmightycolumns，thoseonthelefthandround，thoseontherightsquare，andalmostterriblymassive。Thereisinthesenograce，asinthegiantlotuscolumnsofKarnak。Prodigious，heavy，barbaric，theyarelikeahymninstonetoStrength。Thereissomethingbrutalintheiraspect，whichagainmakesonethinkofwar，ofassaultsrepelled，hordesbeatenbacklikewavesbyasea-wall。Andstillanothergreathall，withmoregiganticcolumns，liesinthesunbeyond，andadoorwaythroughwhichseemstostarefiercelytheedgeofahardandfierymountain。Althoughoneisroofedbythesky，thereissomethingoppressivehere;animprisonedfeelingcomesoverone。I
couldneverbefondofMedinet-Abu，asIamfondofLuxor，ofpartsofKarnak，ofthewholeofdelicious，poeticalPhilae。Thebigpylons，withtheirgreatwallsslopinginward，sand-colored，andglowingwithverypaleyellowinthesun，theresistantwalls，thebrutalcolumns，thehugeandalmostsavagescaleofeverything，alwaysremindmeoftheviolenceinmen，andalso——Iscarcelyknowwhy——makemethinkoftheNorth，ofsullenNortherncastlesbythesea，inplaceswhereskiesaregrey，andthewhiteoffoamandsnowismarriedinangrynights。
AndyetinMedinet-Abutherereignsasplendidcalm——acalmthatsometimesseemsmassive，resistant，asthecolumnsandthewalls。
Peaceiscertainlyinclosedbythestonesthatcallupthoughtsofwar，asif，perhaps，theirpurposehadbeenachievedmanycenturiesago，andtheywerequitofenemiesforever。RamesesIII。isconnectedwithMedinet-Abu。HewasoneofthegreatestoftheEgyptiankings，andhasbeencalledthe\"lastofthegreatsovereignsofEgypt。\"Heruledforthirty-oneyears，andwhen，afterafirstvisittoMedinet-
Abu，Ilookedintohisrecords，Iwasinterestedtofindthathisconquestsandhiswarshad\"acharacteressentiallydefensive。\"Thisdefensivespiritisincarnatedinthestonesoftheseruins。OnereadsinthemsomethingofthesoulofthiskingwholivedtwelvehundredyearsbeforeChrist，andwhodesired，\"inremembranceofhisSyrianvictories，\"togivetohismemorialtempleanoutwardmilitaryaspect。
Inoticedamilitaryaspectatonceinsidethistemple;butifyoucirclethebuildingsoutsideitismoreunmistakable。Fortheeastfronthasabattlementedwall，andthebattlementsareshield-shaped。
Thisfortress，ormigdol，anamewhichtheancientEgyptiansborrowedfromthenomadictribesofSyria，iscalledthe\"PavilionofRamesesIII。，\"andhisprincipalbattlesarerepresenteduponitswalls。Themonarchdoesnothesitatetospeakofhimselfintermsofpraise，suggestingthathewasliketheGodMentu，whowastheEgyptianwargod，andwhosecultatThebeswasatoneperiodmoreimportanteventhanwasthecultofAmun，andalsoplainlyhintingthathewasabravefellow。\"I，RamesestheKing，\"hemurmurs，\"behavedasaherowhoknowshisworth。\"Ifhieroglyphsaretobetrusted，variousEgyptiankingsofancienttimesseemtohavehadsomevaguesuspicionoftheirownvalue，andthewallsofMedinet-Abuare，tospeaksincerely，onemightyboast。Inhislateryearsthekinglivedinpeaceandluxury，surroundedbyaviciousandintriguingCourt，hauntedbymagicians，hags，andmystery-mongers。Dealersinmagicmaystillbefoundontheothersideoftheriver，inhappyLuxor。ImadetheacquaintanceoftwowhenIwasthere，oneofwhomofferedforacoupleofpoundstoprovidemewithapreservativeagainstallsuchdangersasbesetthetravellerinwildplaces。Inordertoproveitsefficacyheaskedmetocometohishousebynight，bringingadogandmyrevolverwithme。Hewouldhangthecharmaboutthedog’sneck，andIwasthentoputsixshotsintotheanimal’sbody。Hepositivelyassuredmethatthedogwouldbeuninjured。Ihalf-promisedtocomeand，whennightbegantofall，lookedvaguelyaboutforadog。AtlastIfoundone，butithowledsodismallywhenIaskedIbrahimAyyadtotakepossessionofitforexperimentalpurposes，thatIweaklygaveuptheproject，andleftthemagicianclamoringforhishundredandninety-fivepiastres。
ItswarlikeaspectgivesaspecialpersonalitytoMedinet-Abu。Theshield-shapedbattlements;thecourtyards，withtheirbrutalcolumns，narrowingastheyrecedetowardsthemountains;theheavygateways，withsuperimposedchambers;thetowers;quadrangularbastiontoprotect，inclinedbasementtoresisttheattacksofsappersandcauseprojectilestorebound——allthesethingscontributetothisverydefiniteeffect。
IhaveheardtravelersontheNilespeakpiteouslyoftheconfusionwakenedintheirmindsbyahurriedsurveyofmanytemples，statues，monuments，andtombs。Butifonestayslongenoughthisconfusionfadeshappilyaway，andonedifferentiatesbetweentheantiquepersonalitiesofAncientEgyptalmostaseasilyasonedifferentiatesbetweenthepersonalitiesofone’sfamiliarfriends。AmongthesepersonalitiesMedinet-Abuisthewarrior，standinglikeMentu，withthesolardisk，andthetwoplumeserectabovehisheadofahawk，firmlyplantedatthefootoftheThebanmountains，readytorepelallenemies，tobeatbackallassaults，stronganddetermined，powerfulandbrutallyserene。
XI
THERAMESSEUM
\"This，mylord，isthethinking-placeofRamesestheGreat。\"
SosaidIbrahimAyyadtomeonemorning——Ibrahim，whoisalmostasprolificintheabruptcreationofpeersasifhewereademocraticgovernment。
Ilookedaboutme。Westoodinaruinedhallwithcolumns，architravescoveredwithinscriptions，segmentsofflatroof。Hereandtheretracesofpainting，dull-red，pale，etherealblue——the\"love-color\"ofEgypt，astheEgyptiansoftencallit——stilladheredtothestone。
Thishall，dignified，grand，buthappy，wasopenonallsidestothesunandair。FromitIcouldseetamarisk-andacacia-trees，andfar-
offshadowymountainsbeyondtheeasternvergeoftheNile。Andthetreeswerestillascarventhingsinanatmospherethatwasamiracleofclearnessandofpurity。Behindme，andnear，thehardLibyanmountainsgleamedinthesun。Somewhereaboywassinging;andsuddenlyhissingingdiedaway。AndIthoughtofthe\"LayoftheHarper\"whichisinscribeduponthetombsofThebes——thosetombsunderthosegleamingmountains：
\"Fornoonecarriesawayhisgoodswithhim;
Yea，noonereturnsagainwhohasgonethither。\"
IttooktheplaceofthesongthathaddiedasIthoughtofthegreatking’sglory;thathehadbeenhere，andhadlongsincepassedaway。
\"Thethinking-placeofRamesestheGreat！\"
\"Suttinly。\"
\"Youmustleavemealonehere，Ibrahim。\"
Iwatchedhisgold-coloredrobevanishintothegoldofthesunthroughthecoppercolorofthecolumns。AndIwasquitealoneinthe\"thinking-place\"ofRameses。Itwasabrilliantday，theskydarksapphireblue，withouteventhespectreofacloud，oranyairy，vaporousveil;theheatalreadyintenseinthefullsunshine，butdeliciousifoneslidintoashadow。Islidintoashadow，andsatdownonawarmblockofstone。Andthesilencefloweduponme——thesilenceoftheRamesseum。
Was/Horbehutet/，thewingeddisk，withcrowned/uroei/，eversetupabovethistemple’sprincipaldoortokeepitfromdestruction？Idonotknow。But，ifhewas，hefailedperfectlytofulfilhismission。
AndIamgladhefailed。Iamgladoftheruinthatishere，gladthatwallshavecrumbledorbeenoverthrown，thatcolumnshavebeencastdown，andceilingstornofffromthepillarsthatsupportedthem，lettinginthesky。Iwouldhavenothingdifferentinthethinking-
placeofRameses。
Likeacloud，agreatgoldencloud，agloryimpendingthatwillnot，cannot，bedissolvedintotheether，heloomedovertheEgyptthatisdead，heloomsovertheEgyptofto-day。Everywhereyoumeethistraces，everywhereyouhearhisname。YousaytoatallyoungEgyptian：\"Howbigyouaregrowing，Hassan！\"
Heanswers，\"Comebacknextyear，mygentleman，andIshallbelikeRamesestheGreat。\"
Oryouaskoftheboatmanwhorowsyou，\"HowcanyoupullalldayagainstthecurrentoftheNile？\"Andhesmiles，andliftinghisbrownarm，hesaystoyou：\"Look！IamstrongasRamesesthegreat。\"
Thisfamiliarfamecomesdownthroughsometwentyyears。Carveduponlimestoneandgranite，nowitseemsengravenalsooneveryEgyptianheartthatbeatsnotonlywiththemovementofshadoof，orisnotburiedintheblacksoilfertilizedbyHapi。Thuscaninordinatevanityprolongthetruetriumphofgenius，andimpressitsownviewofitselfuponthemindsofmillions。ThisRamesesisbelievedtobethePharaohwhooppressedthechildrenofIsrael。
AsIsatintheRamesseumthatmorning，Irecalledhisface——thefaceofanartistandadreamerratherthanthatofawarriorandoppressor;Asiatic，handsome，notinsensitive，notcruel，butsubtle，aristocratic，andrefined。IcouldimagineitbendingabovethelittleserpentsofthesistrumastheyliftedtheirmelodiousvoicestobidTyphondepart，orwatchingthedancingwomen’srhythmicmovements，orsmilinghalfkindly，halfwithirony，uponthelovelornmaidenwhomadeherplaint：
\"Whatissweettothemouth，tomeisasthegallofbirds;
Thybreathalonecancomfortmyheart。\"
AndIcouldimagineitlookingprofoundlygrave，notsad，amongthecolumnswiththeiropeninglotusflowers。ForitisthehalloflotuscolumnsthatIbrahimcallsthethinking-placeoftheking。
ThereissomethingbothlovelyandtouchingtomeinthelotuscolumnsofEgypt，inthetallmassesofstoneopeningoutintoflowersnearthesun。Nearthesun！Yes;onlythatobviousfalsehoodwillconveytothosewhohavenotseenthemtheeffectofsomeofthehypostylehalls，thecolumnsofwhichseemliterallysoaringtothesky。Andflowersofstone，youwillsay，rudelycarvedandrugged！Thatdoesnotmatter。Therewaspoetryinthemindsthatconceivedthem，inthethoughtthatdirectedthehandswhichshapedthemandplacedthemwheretheyare。InEgyptperpetuallyonefeelshowtheancientEgyptianslovedthe/Nymphaealotus/，whichisthewhitelotus，andthe/Nymphaeacoeruloea/，thelotusthatisblue。DidtheynotplaceHorusinitscup，andupontheheadofNefer-Tum，thenaturegod，whorepresentedintheirmythologytheheatoftherisingsun，andwhoseemstohavebeencreditedwithpowertograntlifeintheworldtocome，setitasasortofregalornament？ToSetiI。，whenhereturnedingloryfromhistriumphsovertheSyrians，weregivenbouquetsoflotus-blossomsbythegreatofficersofhishousehold。Thetinycolumnofgreenfeldsparendinginthelotustypifiedeternalyouth，evenasthecarnelianbuckletypifiedthebloodofIsis，whichwashedawayallsin。Kohlpotswerefashionedintheformofthelotus，cartouchessprangfromit，wineflowedfromcupsshapedlikeit。ThelotuswaspartoftheverylifeofEgypt，astherose，theAmericanBeautyrose，ispartofoursociallifeofto-day。Andhere，intheRamesseum，I
foundcampaniform，orlotus-flowercapitalsonthecolumns——herewhereRamesesonceperhapsdreamedofhisSyriancampaigns，orofthatfamouscombatwhen，\"likeBaalinhisfury，\"hefoughtsingle-handedagainstthehostoftheHittitesmassedintwothousand，fivehundredchariotstooverthrowhim。
TheRamesseumisatemplenotofwinds，butofsoftandkindlyairs。
TherecomesZephyrus，whisperinglovetoFloraincarnateintheLotus。
Toeverysunbeam，toeverylittlebreeze，theruinsstretchoutarms。
Theyadorethedeep-bluesky，theshining，siftedsand，untrammelednature，allthatwhispers，\"Freedom。\"
SoIfeltthatdaywhenIbrahimleftme，soIfeelalwayswhenIsitintheRamesseum，thatexultantvictimofTime’sherenotsacrilegioushand。
Allstrongsoulscryoutsecretlyforlibertyasforasacrednecessityoflife。LibertyseemstodrenchtheRamesseum。Andallstrongsoulsmustexultthere。Thesunhastakenitasabelovedpossession。Nomassywallskeephimout。Noshield-shapedbattlementsrearthemselvesupagainsttheouterworldasatMedinet-Abu。Nohugepylonscastdownuponthegroundtheirformsindarkness。Thestoneglowswiththesun，seemsalmosttohaveasoulglowingwiththesense，thesun-raysense，offreedom。TheheartleapsupintheRamesseum，notfrivolously，butwithastrange，suddenknowledgeofthedepthsofpassionatejoythereareinlifeandinbountiful，gloriousnature。Insteadofthestrengthofaprisononefeelstheecstasyofspace;insteadofthesafetyofinclosure，theraptureofnakedpublicity。ButthepublictowhomthisplaceofthegreatkingisconsignedisapublicofThebanhills;ofthesunbeamsstrikingfromthemoverthewideworldtowardtheeast;oflightairs，ofdriftingsandgrains，ofsingingbirds，andofbutterflieswithpurewhitewings。IfyouhaveeverriddenanArabhorse，mountedintheheartofanoasis，tothevergeofthegreatdesert，youwillrememberthebound，thrillingwithfieryanimation，whichhegiveswhenhesetshisfeetonthesandbeyondthelasttalldate-palms。AboundlikethatthesoulgiveswhenyousitintheRamesseum，andseethecrowdingsunbeams，thefar-offgrovesofpalm-trees，andthedrowsymountains，likeshadows，thatsleepbeyondtheNile。Andyoulookup，perhaps，asIlookedthatmorning，anduponalotuscolumnnearyou，relieved，youperceivethefigureofayoungmansinging。
Ayoungmansinging！Lethimbethetutelarygodofthisplace，whoeverhebe，whetheronlysomehumble，happyslave，orthe\"superintendentofsongandoftherecreationoftheking。\"RathereventhanAmun-Ralethimbethegod。Forthereissomethingnoblyjoyousinthisarchitecture，adignitythatsings。
Ithasbeensaid，butnotestablished，thatRamesestheGreatwasburiedintheRamesseum，andwhenfirstIentereditthe\"LayoftheHarper\"cametomymind，withthesadnessthatattendsthepassingawayofgloryintotheshadesofdeath。ButanoptimismalmostasdeterminedasEmerson’swasquicklybredinmethere。Icouldnotbesad，thoughIcouldbehappilythoughtful，inthelightoftheRamesseum。AndevenwhenIleftthethinking-place，and，comingdownthecentralaisle，sawintheimmersingsunshineoftheOsirideCourtthefallencolossusoftheking，Iwasnotstrucktosadness。
Imaginethegreatestfigureintheworld——suchafigureasthisRameseswasinhisday——withallmight，allglory，allclimbingpower，allvigor，tenacityofpurpose，andgranitestrengthofwillconcentratedwithinit，strucksuddenlydown，andfallingbackwardinacollapseofwhichthethundermightshakethevitalsoftheearth，andyouhavethisprostratecolossus。Evennowoneseemstohearitfall，tofeelthewarmsoiltremblingbeneathone’sfeetasoneapproachesit。Arowofstatuesofenormoussize，witharmscrossedasifinresignation，glowinginthesun，incolornotgoldoramber，butadelicate，desertyellow，watchnearitlikeservantsofthedead。Onaslightlylowerlevelthanthereitlies，andalittlenearertheNile。Onlytheupperhalfofthefigureisleft，butitssizeisreallyterrific。Thiscolossuswasfifty-sevenfeethigh。Itweighedeighthundredtons。Eighthundredtonsofsyenitewenttoitsmaking，andacrosstheshouldersitsbreadthis，orwas，overtwenty-twofeet。
Butonedoesnotthinkofmeasurementsasonelooksuponit。Itisstupendous。Thatisobviousandthatisenough。Nordoesonethinkofitsfinish，ofitsbeautiful，richcolor，ofanyofitsdetails。Onethinksofitasatremendouspersonagelaidlow，asthemightiestofthemightyfallen。OnethinksofitasthedeadRameseswhoseglorystillloomsoverEgyptlikeagoldencloudthatwillnotdisperse。Onethinksofitasthesoulthatcommanded，andlo！thereroseupabovethesands，atthefootofthehillsofThebes，theexultantRamesseum。
XII
DEIR-EL-BAHARI
PlaceforQueenHatshepsu！Surelyshecomestoasoundofflutes，amerrynoiseofthin，brightmusic，backedbyaclashingofbarbariccymbals，alongthecorridorsofthepast;thisqueenwhoisshownuponEgyptianwallsdressedasaman，whoissaidtohavewornabeard，andwhosenttothelandofPuntthefamousexpeditionwhichcoveredherwithgloryandbroughtgoldtothegodAmun。TomemostfemininesheseemedwhenIsawhertempleatDeir-el-Bahari，withitsbrightnessanditssuavity;itsprettyshallownessandsunshine;itswhite，andblue，andyellow，andred，andgreenandorange;allverytrimandfanciful，allverysmartanddelicate;fulloffinesseandlaughter，andbreathingouttomeofthetwentiethcenturythecoquetryofawomanin1500B。C。AftertheterrificmasculinityofMedinet-Abu，afterthegreatfreedomoftheRamesseum，andthegrandeurofitscolossus，themanhoodofalltheagesconcentratedingranite，thetempleatDeir-el-Baharicameuponmelikeadelicatewoman，perfumedandarranged，clothedinacreationofwhiteandblueandorange，standing——eversoknowingly——againstabackgroundoforangeandpink，ofredandofbrown-red，asmilingcoquetteofthemountain，agayandsweetenchantresswhoknewherprettypowersandmeanttoexercisethem。
Hatshepsuwithabeard！NeverwillIbelieveit。Orifsheeverseemedtowearone，IwillswearitwasonlythetattooedornamentwithwhichallthelovelywomenoftheFayumdecoratetheirchinsto-day，throwingintoreliefthesmiling，softlips，thedelicatenoses，theliquideyes，andleadingonefromitstepbysteptothebeautiesitprecedes。