第1章
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  INTRODUCTION

  QueenElizabethherself,andLondonasitwasinhertime,withsketchesofElizabethanEngland,andofitsgreatmeninthewayofsocialdignity,areherebroughthometousbyPaulHentznerandSirRobertNaunton。

  PaulHentznerwasaGermanlawyer,bornatCrossen,inBrandenburg,onthe29thofJanuary,1558。Hediedonthe1stJanuary,1623。In1596,whenhisagewasthirty-eight,hebecametutortoayoungSilesiannobleman,withwhomhesetoutin1597onathreeyears’

  tourthroughSwitzerland,France,England,andItaly。AfterhisreturntoGermanyin1600,hepublished,atNuremberg,in1612,adescriptionofwhathehadseenandthoughtworthrecord,writteninLatin,as\"ItinerariumGermaniae,Galliae,Angliae,Italiae,cumIndiceLocorum,RerumatqueVerborum。\"

  HoraceWalpolecausedthatpartofHentzner’sItinerarywhichtellswhathesawinEnglandtobetranslatedbyRichardBentley,sonofthefamousscholar,andheprintedatStrawberryHilltwohundredandtwentycopies。In1797\"Hentzner’sTravelsinEngland\"wereedited,togetherwithSirRobertNaunton’s\"FragmentaRegalia,\"inthevolumefromwhichtheyareherereprinted,withnotesbythetranslatorandtheeditor。

  SirRobertNauntonwasofanoldfamilywithlargeestates,settledatAlderton,inSuffolk。HewasatCambridgeinthelatteryearsofElizabeth’sreign,havingenteredasFellowCommoneratTrinityCollege,andobtainedaFellowshipatTrinityHall。NauntonwenttoScotlandin1589withanuncle,WilliamAshby,whomQueenElizabethsentthitherasAmbassador,andwasdespatchedtoElizabeth’scourtfromScotlandasatrustymessenger。In1596-7hewasinFrance,andcorrespondedwiththeEarlofEssex,whowashisfriend。AfterthefallofEssexhereturnedtoCambridge,andwasmadeProctoroftheUniversityin1601,threeyearsafterPaulHentzner’svisittoEngland。ThenhebecamePublicOratoratCambridge,andbyaspeechmadetoKingJamesatHinchinbrookwonhisMajesty’spraiseforLatinandlearning。HecametocourtintheserviceofSirJamesOverbury,obtainedtheactivefriendshipofGeorgeVilliersDukeofBuckingham,andwasswornasSecretaryofStateonthe8thJanuary,1617。ThekingafterwardsgaveNauntontheofficeofMasteroftheCourtofWardsandLiveries。

  SirRobertNauntonwrotehisrecollectionsofthemenwhoservedQueenElizabethwhenhewasnearthecloseofhisownlife。Itwasafter1628,becausehespeaksofEdwardSomerset,EarlofWorcester,asdead,andbefore1632,becausehespeaksofSirWilliamKnollyslivingastheonlyEarlofBanbury。HewascreatedEarlofBanburyin1626,anddiedin1632。The\"FragmentaRegalia\"werefirstpublishedin1641,afterSirRobert’sdeath。Theywerereprintedin1642and1653,sincewhichdatetheyhaveappearedinvariouscollections。Therewasagoodeditionofthemin1870amongtheveryvaluable\"EnglishReprints\"forwhichweareindebtedtoProfessorEdwardArber。

  H。M。

  TRAVELSINENGLAND

  WearrivedatRye,asmallEnglishseaport。Here,assoonaswecameonshore,wegaveinournamestothenotaryoftheplace,butnottillhehaddemandedourbusiness;andbeinganswered,thatwehadnonebuttoseeEngland,wewereconductedtoaninn,wherewewereverywellentertained;asonegenerallyisinthiscountry。

  Wetookpost-horsesforLondon:itissurprisinghowswiftlytheyrun;theirbridlesareverylight,andtheirsaddleslittlemorethanaspanover。

  Flimwell,avillage:herewereturnedourfirsthorses,andmountedfreshones。

  WepassedthroughTunbridge,anothervillage。

  Chepstead,anothervillage:here,forthesecondtime,wechangedhorses。

  London,theheadandmetropolisofEngland:calledbyTacitus,Londinium;byPtolemy,Logidinium;byAmmianusMarcellinus,Lundinium;byforeigners,Londra,andLondres;itistheseatoftheBritishEmpire,andthechamberoftheEnglishkings。ThismostancientcityisthethecountyofMiddlesex,thefruitfullestandwholesomestsoilinEngland。ItisbuiltontheriverThames,sixtymilesfromthesea,andwasoriginallyfounded,asallhistoriansagree,byBrutus,who,comingfromGreeceintoItaly,thenceintoAfrica,nextintoFrance,andlastintoBritain,chosethissituationfortheconvenienceoftheriver,callingitTrojaNova,whichnamewasafterwardscorruptedintoTrinovant。ButwhenLud,thebrotherofCassibilan,orCassivelan,whowarredagainstJuliusCaesar,ashehimselfmentions(lib。v。deBell。Gall。),cametothecrown,heencompasseditwithverystrongwalls,andtowersveryartfullyconstructed,andfromhisownnamecalleditCaierLud,I。E。,Lud’sCity。ThisnamewascorruptedintothatofCaerlunda,andagainintime,bychangeoflanguage,intoLondres。Lud,whenhedied,wasburiedinthistown,nearthatgatewhichisyetcalledinWelsh,PorLud——inSaxon,Ludesgate。

  ThefamousriverThamesowespartofitsstream,aswellasitsappellation,totheIsis;risingalittleaboveWinchelcomb,andbeingincreasedwithseveralrivulets,unitesbothitswatersanditsnametotheThame,ontheothersideofOxford;thence,afterpassingbyLondon,andbeingoftheutmostutility,fromitsgreatnessandnavigation,itopensintoavastarmofthesea,fromwhencethetide,accordingtoGemmaFrisius,flowsandebbstothedistanceofeightymiles,twiceintwenty-fivehours,and,accordingtoPolydoreVergil,abovesixtymilestwiceintwenty-fourhours。

  Thiscitybeingverylargeofitself,hasveryextensivesuburbs,andafortcalledtheTower,ofbeautifulstructure。Itismagnificentlyornamentedwithpublicbuildingsandchurches,ofwhichthereareaboveonehundredandtwentyparochial。

  Onthesouthisabridgeofstoneeighthundredfeetinlength,ofwonderfulwork;itissupportedupontwentypiersofsquarestone,sixtyfeethighandthirtybroad,joinedbyarchesofabouttwentyfeetdiameter。Thewholeiscoveredoneachsidewithhousessodisposedastohavetheappearanceofacontinuedstreet,notatallofabridge。

  Uponthisisbuiltatower,onwhosetoptheheadsofsuchashavebeenexecutedforhightreasonareplacedonironspikes:wecountedabovethirty。

  PaulusJovius,inhisdescriptionofthemostremarkabletownsinEngland,saysallareobscuredbyLondon:which,intheopinionofmany,isCaesar’scityoftheTrinobantes,thecapitalofallBritain,famousforthecommerceofmanynations;itshousesareelegantlybuilt,itschurchesfine,itstownsstrong,anditsrichesandabundancesurprising。ThewealthoftheworldiswaftedtoitbytheThames,swelledbythetide,andnavigabletomerchantshipsthroughasafeanddeepchannelforsixtymiles,fromitsmouthtothecity:itsbanksareeverywherebeautifiedwithfinecountryseats,woods,andfarms;belowistheroyalpalaceofGreenwich;

  above,thatofRichmond;andbetweenboth,onthewestofLondon,risethenoblebuildingsofWestminster,mostremarkableforthecourtsofjustice,theparliament,andSt。Peter’schurch,enrichedwiththeroyaltombs。AtthedistanceoftwentymilesfromLondonisthecastleofWindsor,amostdelightfulretreatoftheKingsofEngland,aswellasfamousforseveraloftheirtombs,andfortheceremonialoftheOrderoftheGarter。Thisriveraboundsinswans,swimminginflocks:thesightofthem,andtheirnoise,arevastlyagreeabletothefleetsthatmeetthemintheircourse。Itisjoinedtothecitybyabridgeofstone,wonderfullybuilt;isneverincreasedbyanyrains,risingonlywiththetide,andiseverywherespreadwithnetsfortakingsalmonandshad。ThusfarPaulusJovius。

  PolydoreVergilaffirmsthatLondonhascontinuedtobearoyalcity,andthecapitalofthekingdom,crowdedwithitsowninhabitantsandforeigners,aboundinginriches,andfamousforitsgreattrade,fromthetimeofKingArcheninus,orErchenvinus。Herethekingsarecrowned,andsolemnlyinaugurated,andthecouncilofthenation,orparliament,isheld。Thegovernmentofthecityislodged,byancientgrantoftheKingsofBritain,intwenty-fouraldermen——thatis,seniors:theseannuallyelectoutoftheirownbodyamayorandtwosheriffs,whodeterminecausesaccordingtomunicipallaws。Ithasalwayshad,asindeedBritainingeneralhas,agreatnumberofmenoflearning,muchdistinguishedfortheirwritings。

  Thewallsarepiercedwithsixgates,which,astheywererebuilt,acquirednewnames。Twolookwestward:

  1。Ludgate,theoldest,socalledfromKingLud,whosenameisyettobeseen,cutinthestoneoverthearchontheside;thoughothersimagineitrathertohavebeennamedFludgate,fromastreamoverwhichitstands,likethePortaFluentanaatRome。IthasbeenlatelyrepairedbyQueenElizabeth,whosestatueisplacedontheoppositeside。And,2。Newgate,thebestedificeofany;socalledfrombeingnewbuilt,whereasbeforeitwasnamedChamberlaingate。Itisthepublicprison。

  Onthenortharefour:

  1。Aldersgate,assomethinkfromaldertrees;asothers,fromAldericius,aSaxon。

  2。Cripplegate,fromahospitalforthelame。

  3。Moorgate,fromaneighbouringmorass,nowconvertedintoafield,firstopenedbyFrancetius{1}themayor,A。D。1414。

  4。AndBishopsgate,fromsomebishop:thistheGermanmerchantsoftheHanssocietywereobligedbycompacttokeepinrepair,andintimesofdangertodefend。Theywereinpossessionofakeytoopenorshutit,sothatuponoccasiontheycouldcomein,orgoout,bynightorbyday。

  Thereisonlyonetotheeast:

  Aldgate,thatis,Oldgate,fromitsantiquity;thoughothersthinkittohavebeennamedElbegate。

  Severalpeoplebelievethattherewereformerlytwogates(besidesthattothebridge)towardstheThames。

  1。Billingsgate,nowacothon,orartificialport,forthereceptionofships。

  2。Dourgate,VULGODowgate,I。E。,Water-gate。

  ThecathedralofSt。PaulwasfoundedbyEthelbert,KingoftheSaxons,andbeingfromtimetotimere-edified,increasedtovastnessandmagnificence,andinrevenuesomuch,thatitaffordsaplentifulsupporttoabishop,dean,andprecentor,treasurer,fourarchdeacons,twenty-nineprebendaries,andmanyothers。Theroofofthischurch,asofmostothersinEngland,withtheadjoiningsteeple,iscoveredwithlead。

  OntherightsideofthechoiristhemarbletombofNicholasBacon,withhiswife。Notfarfromthisisamagnificentmonument,ornamentedwithpyramidsofmarbleandalabaster,withthisinscription:

  SacredtothememoryofSirChristopherHatton,sonofWilliam,grandsonofJohn,ofthemostancientfamilyoftheHattons;oneofthefiftygentlemenpensionerstoHerMajestyQueenElizabeth:Gentlemanoftheprivychamber;captainoftheguards;oneofthePrivyCouncil,andHighChancellorofEngland,andoftheUniversityofOxford:who,tothegreatgriefofhisSovereign,andofallgoodmen,endedthislifereligiously,afterhavinglivedunmarriedtotheageoffifty-one,athishouseinHolborn,onthe20thofNovember,A。D。1591。

  WilliamHatton,knight,hisnephewbyhissister’sside,andbyadoptionhissonandheir,mostsorrowfullyraisedthistomb,asamarkofhisduty。

  OnthelefthandisthemarblemonumentofWilliamHerbert,EarlofPembroke,andhislady:andnearit,thatofJohn,DukeofLancaster,withthisinscriptionHeresleepsintheLord,JohnofGant,socalledfromthecityofthesamenameofFlanders,wherehewasborn,fourthsonofEdwardtheThird,KingofEngland,andcreatedbyhisfatherEarlofRichmond。Hewasthricemarried;firsttoBlanche,daughterandheiressofHenryDukeofLancaster;byherhereceivedanimmenseinheritance,andbecamenotonlyDukeofLancaster,butEarlofLeicester,Lincoln,andDerby,ofwhoseracearedescendedmanyemperors,kings,princes,andnobles。HissecondwifewasConstance,whoishereburied,daughterandheiressofPeter,KingofCastileandLeon,inwhoserighthemostjustly{2}tookthestyleofKingofCastileandLeon。Shebroughthimoneonlydaughter,Catherine,ofwhom,byHenry,aredescendedtheKingsofSpain。HisthirdwifewasCatherine,ofaknight’sfamily,awomanofgreatbeauty,bywhomhehadanumerousprogeny;fromwhichisdescended,bythemother’sside,HenrytheSeventh,themostprudentKingofEngland,bywhosemosthappymarriagewithElizabeth,daughterofEdwardtheFourth,ofthelineofYork,thetworoyallinesofLancasterandYorkareunited,tothemostdesiredtranquillityofEngland。

  Themostillustriousprince,John,surnamedPlantagenet,KingofCastileandLeon,DukeofLancaster,EarlofRichmond,Leicester,andDerby,LieutenantofAquitain,HighStewardofEngland,diedinthetwenty-firstyearofRichardII。,A。D。1398。

  Alittlefarther,almostattheentranceofthechoir,inacertainrecess,aretwosmallstonechests,oneofwhichisthusinscribed:

  HereliesSeba,KingoftheEastSaxons,whowasconvertedtothefaithbySt。Erkenwald,BishopofLondon,A。D。677。

  Ontheother:

  HereliesEthelred,KingoftheAngles,sonofKingEdgar,OnwhomSt。Dustanissaidtohavedenouncedvengeance,onhiscoronationday,inthefollowingwords:-\"Inasmuchasthouhastaspiredtothethronebythedeathofthybrother,againstwhosebloodtheEnglish,alongwiththyinfamousmother,conspired,theswordshallnotpassfromthyhouse!butrageallthedaysofthylife,afflictingallthygeneration,tillthykingdomshallbetranslatedtoanother,whosemannerandlanguagethepeopleundertheeknowethnot。Norshallthysinbedoneawaytillafterlongchastisement,northesinofthymother,northesinofthosemenwhoassistedinthywickedcouncil。\"

  Allwhichcametopassaspredictedbythesaint;forafterbeingworstedandputtoflightbySuenoKingoftheDanes,andhissonCanute,andatlastcloselybesiegedinLondon,hediedmiserablyA。D。1017,afterhehadreignedthirty-sixyearsingreatdifficulties。

  Thereisbesidesinthemiddleofthechurchatombmadeofbrass,ofsomeBishopofLondon,namedWilliam,whowasinfavourwithEdward,KingofEngland,andafterwardsmadecounsellortoKingWilliam。Hewasbishopsixteenyears,anddiedA。D。1077。Nearthisisthefollowinginscription:

  Virtuesurvivesthefuneral。

  TothememoryofThomasLinacre,aneminentphysician,JohnCaiusplacedthismonument。

  Onthelowerpartofitisthisinscriptioningoldletters:

  ThomasLinacre,physiciantoKingHenryVIII。,amanlearnedintheGreekandLatinlanguages,andparticularlyskilfulinphysick,bywhichherestoredmanyfromastateoflanguishmentanddespairtolife。HetranslatedwithextraordinaryeloquencemanyofGalen’sworksintoLatin;andpublished,alittlebeforehisdeath,attherequestofhisfriends,averyvaluablebookonthecorrectstructureoftheLatintongue。Hefoundedinperpetuityinfavourofstudentsinphysick,twopubliclecturesatOxford,andoneatCambridge。Inthiscityhebroughtabout,byhisownindustry,theestablishingofaCollegeofPhysicians,ofwhichhewaselectedthefirstpresident。Hewasadetesterofallfraudanddeceit,andfaithfulinhisfriendships;equallydeartomenofallranks:hewentintoordersafewyearsbeforehisdeath,andquittedthislifefullofyears,andmuchlamented,A。D。1524,onthe29thofOctober。

  Therearemanytombsinthischurch,butwithoutanyinscriptions。

  Ithasaveryfineorgan,which,ateveningprayer,accompaniedwithotherinstruments,isdelightful。

  Inthesuburbtothewest,joinedtothecitybyacontinualrowofpalacesbelongingtothechiefnobility,ofamileinlength,andlyingonthesidenexttheThames,isthesmalltownofWestminster;

  originallycalledThorney,fromitsthornbushes,butnowWestminster,fromitsaspectanditsmonastery。ThechurchisremarkableforthecoronationandburialoftheKingsofEngland。

  UponthisspotissaidformerlytohavestoodatempleofApollo,whichwasthrowndownbyanearthquakeinthetimeofAntoninusPius;fromtheruinsofwhichSebert,KingoftheEastSaxons,erectedanothertoSt。Peter:thiswassubvertedbytheDanes,andagainrenewedbyBishopDunstan,whogaveittoafewmonks。

  Afterwards,KingEdwardtheConfessorbuiltitentirelynew,withthetenthofhiswholerevenue,tobetheplaceofhisownburial,andaconventofBenedictinemonks;andenricheditwithestatesdispersedalloverEngland。

  Inthischurchthefollowingthingsareworthyofnotice:

  Inthefirstchoir,thetombofAnneofCleves,wifeofHenryVIII。,withoutanyinscription。

  Ontheoppositesidearetwostonesepulchres:

  (1)Edward,EarlofLancaster,brotherofEdwardI。;(2)AdemarofValence,EarlofPembroke,sonofAdemarofValence。Joiningtotheseis(3)thatofAveline,CountessofLancaster。

  Inthesecondchoiristhechaironwhichthekingsareseatedwhentheyarecrowned;initisenclosedastone,saidtobethatonwhichthepatriarchJacobsleptwhenhedreamedhesawaladderreachingquiteupintoheaven。SomeLatinversesarewrittenuponatablethangingnearit;thesenseofwhichis:

  Thatifanyfaithistobegiventoancientchronicles,astoneofgreatnoteisenclosedinthischair,beingthesameonwhichthepatriarchJacobreposedwhenhebeheldthemiraculousdescentofangels。EdwardI。,theMarsandHectorofEngland,havingconqueredScotland,broughtitfromthence。

  ThetombofRichardII。andhiswife,ofbrass,gilt,andtheseverseswrittenroundit:

  Perfectandprudent,Richard,byrighttheSecond,VanquishedbyFortune,liesherenowgraveninstone,Trueofhisword,andtheretowellrenound:

  Seemlyinperson,andliketoHomerasoneInworldlyprudence,andevertheChurchinoneUpheldandfavoured,castingtheproudtoground,Andallthatwouldhisroyalstateconfound。

  Withoutthetombisthisinscription:

  HereliesKingRichard,whoperishedbyacrueldeath,intheyear1369。

  Tohavebeenhappyisadditionalmisery。

  Nearhimisthemonumentofhisqueen,daughteroftheEmperorWenceslaus。

  OnthelefthandisthetombofEdwardI。,withthisinscription:

  HereliesEdwardI。,whohumbledtheScots。A。D。1308。

  Betruetoyourengagements。

  Hereignedforty-sixyears。

  ThetombofEdwardIII。,ofcopper,gilt,withthisepitaph:

  OfEnglishkingsherelieththebeauteousflowerOfallbeforepast,andmyrrortothemshallsue:

  Amercifulking,ofpeaceconservator,ThethirdEdward,&c。

  Besidesthetombarethesewords:

  EdwardIII。,whosefamehasreachedtoheaven。A。D。1377,Fightforyourcountry。

  Hereisshownhissword,eightfeetinlength,whichtheysayheusedintheconquestofFrance。

  Hisqueen’sepitaph:

  HereliesQueenPhilippa,wifeofEdwardIII。Learntolive。A。D。

  1369。

  Atalittledistance,thetombofHenryV。,withthislegend:

  Henry,thescourgeofFrance,liesinthistomb。Virtuesubduesallthings。A。D。1422。

  NearthisliesthecoffinofCatherine,unburied,andtobeopenedbyanyonethatpleases。Ontheoutsideisthisinscription:

  FairCatherineisatlengthunitedtoherlord。A。D。1437。

  Shunidleness。

  ThetombofHenryIII。,ofbrass,gilt,withthisepitaph:

  HenryIII。,thefounderofthiscathedral。A。D。1273。Warisdelightfultotheunexperienced。

  ItwasthisHenrywho,onehundredandsixtyyearsafterEdwardtheConfessorhadbuiltthischurch,tookitdown,andraisedanentirenewoneofbeautifularchitecture,supportedbyrowsofmarblecolumns,anditsroofcoveredwithsheetsoflead,aworkoffiftyyearsbeforeitscompletion。Ithasbeenmuchenlargedatthewestendbytheabbots。Aftertheexpulsionofthemonks,itexperiencedmanychanges;firstithadadeanandprebendaries;thenabishop,who,havingsquanderedtherevenues,resigneditagaintoadean。

  Inalittletime,themonkswiththeirabbotwerereinstatedbyQueenMary;but,theybeingsoonejectedagainbyauthorityofparliament,itwasconvertedintoacathedralchurch——nay,intoaseminaryfortheChurch——byQueenElizabeth,whoinstitutedtheretwelveprebendaries,anequalnumberofinvalidsoldiers,andfortyscholars;whoatapropertimeareelectedintotheuniversities,andarethencetransplantedintotheChurchandState。

  NexttobeseenisthetombofEleanor,daughterofAlphonsoKingofSpain,andwifeofEdwardI。,withthisinscription:

  ThisEleanorwasconsortofEdwardI。

  A。D。1298。Learntodie。

  ThetombofElizabeth,daughterofHenryVII。

  InthemiddleofthischapelistheshrineofSt。Edward,thelastKingoftheSaxons。Itiscomposedofmarbleinmosaic:rounditrunsthisinscriptioninlettersofgold:

  Thevenerableking,St。EdwardtheConfessor,Aheroeadornedwitheveryvirtue。

  Hediedonthe5thofJanuary,1065,AndmountedintoHeaven。

  Liftupyourhearts。

  Thethirdchoir,ofsurprisingsplendourandelegance,wasaddedtotheeastendbyHenryVII。foraburying-placeforhimselfandhisposterity。Hereistobeseenhismagnificenttomb,wroughtofbrassandmarble,withthisepitaph:

  HereliesHenryVII。ofthatname,formerlyKingofEngland,sonofEdmund,EarlofRichmond,who,ascendingthethroneonthetwenty-

  seconddayofAugust,wascrownedonthethirtiethofOctoberfollowingatWestminster,intheyearofourLord1485。Hediedonthetwenty-firstofApril,inthefifty-thirdyearofhisage,afterareignoftwenty-twoyearsandeightmonthswantingaday。

  Thismonumentisenclosedwithrailsofbrass,withalongepitaphinLatinverse。

  UnderthesametombliesburiedEdwardVI。,KingofEngland,sonofHenryVIII。byJaneSeymour。Hesucceededtohisfatherwhenhewasbutnineyearsold,anddiedA。T。1553,onthe6thofJuly,inthesixteenthyearofhisage,andofhisreigntheseventh,notwithoutsuspicionofpoison。

  Marywasproclaimedqueenbythepeopleonthe19thofJuly,anddiedinNovember,1558,andisburiedinsomecornerofthesamechoir,withoutanyinscription。

  QueenElizabeth。

  HereliesQueenElizabeth,daughterofEdwardIV。,sisterofKingEdwardV。,wifeofHenryVII。,andthegloriousmotherofHenryVIII。ShediedintheTowerofLondon,ontheeleventhofFebruary,A。D。1502,inthethirty-seventhyearofherage。

  Betweenthesecondandthirdchoirsintheside-chapels,arethetombsofSebert,KingoftheEastSaxons,whobuiltthischurchwithstone:andOfMargaretofRichmond,motherofHenryVII。,grandmotherofHenryVIII。;shegavethismonasterytothemonksofWinbourne,{3}whopreachedandtaughtgrammarallEnglandover,andappointedsalariestotwoprofessorsofdivinity,oneatOxford,anotheratCambridge,whereshefoundedtwocollegestoChristandtoJohnHisdisciple。

  ShediedA。D。1463,onthethirdofthecalendsofJuly。

  AndofMargaret,CountessofLenox,grandmotherofJamesVI。,KingofScotland。

  WilliamofValance,half-brotherofHenryIII。

  TheEarlofCornwall,brotherofEdwardIII。

  UponanothertombisanhonoraryinscriptionforFrances,DuchessofSuffolk。Thesenseofitis,Thattitles,royalbirth,riches,oralargefamily,areofnoavail:

  Thatallaretransitory;virtuealoneresistingthefuneralpile。

  Thatthisladywasfirstmarriedtoaduke,thentoStoke,agentleman;

  Andlastly,bythegraveespousedtoCHRIST。

  ThenextisthetombofLordRussell,sonoftheEarlofBedford,whoseladycomposedthefollowingGreekandLatinverses,andhadthemengravedonthemarble:-

  HowwasIstartledatthecruelfeast,Bydeath’srudehandsinhorridmannerdrest;

  Suchgriefassurenohaplesswomanknew,Whenthypaleimagelaybeforemyview。

  Thyfather’sheirinbeauteousformarrayedLikeflowersinspring,andfair,likethemtofade;

  Leavingbehindunhappywretchedme,Andallthylittleorphan-progeny:

  Alikethebeauteousface,thecomelyair,Thetonguepersuasive,andtheactionsfair,Decay:solearningtoointimeshallwaste:

  Butfaith,chastelovelyfaith,shalleverlast。

  Theoncebrightgloryofhishouse,theprideOfallhiscountry,dustyruinshide:

  Mourn,haplessorphans;mourn,oncehappywife;

  Forwhenhedied,diedallthejoysoflife。

  Piousandjust,amidstalargeestate,Hegotatoncethenameofgoodandgreat。

  Hemadenoflatt’ringparasitehisguest,Butaskedthegoodcompanionstothefeast。

  Anne,CountessofOxford,daughterofWilliamCecil,BaronBurleigh,andLordTreasurer。

  Philippa,daughterandco-heiressofJohn,LordMohunofDunster,wifeofEdward,DukeofYork。

  Frances,CountessofSussex,oftheancientfamilyofSidney。

  ThomasBromley,ChancellortoQueenElizabeth。

  TheEarlofBridgewater,{4}LordDawbney,LordChamberlaintoHenryVII。,andhislady。

  AndthusmuchforWestminster。

  Therearemanyotherchurchesinthiscity,butnonesoremarkableforthetombsofpersonsofdistinction。

  NeartothischurchisWestminsterHall,where,besidestheSessionsofParliament,whichareoftenheldthere,aretheCourtsofJustice;andatstatedtimesareheardtheirtrialsinlaw,orconcerningtheking’spatrimony,orinchancery,whichmoderatestheseverityofthecommonlawbyequity。TillthetimeofHenryI。thePrimeCourtofJusticewasmovable,andfollowedtheKing’sCourt,butheenactedbytheMagnaChartathatthecommonpleasshouldnolongerattendhisCourt,butbeheldatsomedeterminedplace。ThepresenthallwasbuiltbyKingRichardII。intheplaceofanancientonewhichhecausedtobetakendown。Hemadeitpartofhishabitation(foratthattimetheKingsofEnglanddeterminedcausesintheirownproperperson,andfromthedaysofEdwardtheConfessorhadtheirpalaceadjoining),till,abovesixtyyearssince,uponitsbeingburnt,HenryVIII。removedtheroyalresidencetoWhitehall,situatedintheneighbourhood,whichalittlebeforewasthehouseofCardinalWolsey。Thispalaceistrulyroyal,enclosedononesidebytheThames,ontheotherbyapark,whichconnectsitwithSt。James’s,anotherroyalpalace。

  InthechamberwheretheParliamentisusuallyheld,theseatsandwainscotaremadeofwood,thegrowthofIreland;saidtohavethatoccultquality,thatallpoisonousanimalsaredrivenawaybyit;

  anditisaffirmedforcertain,thatinIrelandthereareneitherserpents,toads,noranyothervenomouscreaturetobefound。

  Nearthisplaceareseenanimmensenumberofswans,whowanderupanddowntheriverforsomemiles,ingreatsecurity;nobodydaringtomolest,muchlesskillanyofthem,underpenaltyofaconsiderablefine。

  InWhitehallarethefollowingthingsworthyofobservation:-

  I。TheRoyalLibrary,wellstoredwithGreek,Latin,ItalianandFrenchbooks;amongsttherest,alittleoneinFrenchuponparchment,inthehandwritingofthepresentreigningQueenElizabeth,thusinscribed:-

  Tothemosthigh,puissant,andredoubtedprince,HenryVIII。ofthename,KingofEngland,FranceandIreland,DefenderoftheFaith;

  Elizabeth,hismosthumbledaughter。Healthandobedience。

  Allthesebooksareboundinvelvetindifferentcolours,thoughchieflyred,withclaspsofgoldandsilver;somehavepearlsandpreciousstonessetintheirbindings。

  II。Twolittlesilvercabinetsofexquisitework,inwhichtheQueenkeepsherpaper,andwhichsheusesforwritingboxes。

  III。TheQueen’sbed,ingeniouslycomposedofwoodsofdifferentcolours,withquiltsofsilk,velvet,gold,silver,andembroidery。

  IV。Alittlechestornamentedalloverwithpearls,inwhichtheQueenkeepsherbracelets,ear-rings,andotherthingsofextraordinaryvalue。

  V。Christ’sPassion,inpaintedglass。

  VI。Portraits:amongwhichare,QueenElizabeth,atsixteenyearsold;Henry,Richard,Edward,KingsofEngland;Rosamond;Lucrece,aGrecianbride,inhernuptialhabit;thegenealogyoftheKingsofEngland;apictureofKingEdwardVI。,representingatfirstsightsomethingquitedeformed,tillbylookingthroughasmallholeinthecoverwhichisputoverit,youseeitinitstrueproportions;

  CharlesV。,Emperor;CharlesEmanuel,DukeofSavoy,andCatherineofSpain,hiswife;Ferdinand,DukeofFlorence,withhisdaughters;

  oneofPhilip,KingofSpain,whenhecameintoEnglandandmarriedMary;HenryVII。,HenryVIII。,andhismother;besidesmanymoreofillustriousmenandwomen;andapictureoftheSiegeofMalta。

  VII。Asmallhermitage,halfhidinarock,finelycarvedinwood。

  VIII。Varietyofemblemsonpaper,cutintheshapeofshields,withmottoes,usedbythemobilityattiltsandtournaments,hunguphereforamemorial。

  IX。Differentinstrumentsofmusic,upononeofwhichtwopersonsmayperformatthesametime。

  X。Apieceofclock-work,anEthiopridinguponarhinoceros,withfourattendants,whoallmaketheirobeisancewhenitstrikesthehour;theseareallputintomotionbywindingupthemachine。

  AttheentranceintotheparkfromWhitehallisthisinscription:-

  Thefishermanwhohasbeenwounded,learns,thoughlate,tobeware;

  ButtheunfortunateActaeonalwayspresseson。

  Thechastevirginnaturallypitied:

  Butthepowerfulgoddessrevengedthewrong。

  LetActaeonfallapreytohisdogs,Anexampletoyouth,Adisgracetothosethatbelongtohim!

  MayDianalivethecareofHeaven;

  Thedelightofmortals;

  Thesecurityofthosethatbelongtoher!{5}

  Inthisparkisgreatplentyofdeer。

  InagardenjoiningtothispalacethereisaJETD’EAU,withasun-

  dial,whichwhilestrangersarelookingat,aquantityofwater,forcedbyawheelwhichthegardenerturnsatadistance,throughanumberoflittlepipes,plentifullysprinklesthosethatarestandinground。

  Guildhall,afinestructurebuiltbyThomasKnowles。Herearetobeseenthestatuesoftwogiants,saidtohaveassistedtheEnglishwhentheRomansmadewaruponthem:CoriniusofBritain,andGogmagogofAlbion。BeneathuponatablethetitlesofCharlesV。,Emperor,arewritteninlettersofgold。

  ThegovernmentofLondonisthis:thecityisdividedintotwenty-

  fiveregionsorwards;theCounciliscomposedoftwenty-fouraldermen,oneofwhompresidesovereveryward。Andwhereasofoldthechiefmagistratewasaportreeve,I。E。,governorofthecity,RichardI。appointedtwobailiffs;insteadofwhichKingJohngaveapowerbygrantofchoosingannuallyamayorfromanyofthetwelveprincipalcompanies,andtonametwosheriffs,oneofwhomtobecalledtheking’s,theotherthecity’s。Itisscarcecrediblehowthiscityincreased,bothinpublicandprivatebuildings,uponestablishingthisformofgovernment。VIDECamden’s\"Britannia,\"

  Middlesex。

  Itisworthyofobservation,thateveryyear,uponSt。Bartholomew’sDay,whenthefairisheld,itisusualforthemayor,attendedbythetwelveprincipalaldermen,towalkinaneighbouringfield,dressedinhisscarletgown,andabouthisneckagoldenchain,towhichishungagoldenfleece,{6}andbesides,thatparticularornament{7}whichdistinguishesthemostnobleorderofthegarter。

  Duringtheyearofhismagistracy,heisobligedtolivesomagnificently,thatforeignerornative,withoutanyexpense,isfree,ifhecanfindachairempty,todineathistable,wherethereisalwaysthegreatestplenty。Whenthemayorgoesoutoftheprecinctsofthecity,asceptre,asword,andacap,arebornebeforehim,andheisfollowedbytheprincipalaldermeninscarletgowns,withgoldchains;himselfandtheyonhorseback。Upontheirarrivalataplaceappointedforthatpurpose,whereatentispitched,themobbegintowrestlebeforethem,twoatatime;theconquerorsreceiverewardsfromthemagistrates。Afterthisisover,aparcelofliverabbitsareturnedlooseamongthecrowd,whicharepursuedbyanumberofboys,whoendeavourtocatchthem,withallthenoisetheycanmake。Whilewewereatthisshow,oneofourcompany,TobiasSalander,doctorofphysic,hadhispocketpickedofhispurse,withninecrownsdusoleil,which,withoutdoubt,wassocleverlytakenfromhimbyanEnglishmanwhoalwayskeptveryclosetohim,thatthedoctordidnotintheleastperceiveit。

  TheCastleorTowerofLondon,calledBringwin,andTourgwin,inWelsh,fromitswhiteness,isencompassedbyaverydeepandbroadditch,aswellasadoublewallveryhigh。Inthemiddleofthewholeisthatveryancientandverystrongtower,enclosedwithfourothers,which,intheopinionofsome,wasbuiltbyJuliusCaesar。

  Uponenteringthetower,wewereobligedtoquitourswordsatthegateanddeliverthemtotheguard。Whenwewereintroduced,wewereshownaboveahundredpiecesofarrasbelongingtotheCrown,madeofgold,silver,andsilk;severalsaddlescoveredwithvelvetofdifferentcolours;animmensequantityofbed-furniture,suchascanopies,andthelike,someofthemmostrichlyornamentedwithpearl;someroyaldresses,soextremelymagnificentastoraiseanyone’sadmirationatthesumstheymusthavecost。WewerenextledintotheArmoury,inwhicharetheseparticularities:-Spears,outofwhichyoumayshoot;shields,thatwillgivefirefourtimes;agreatmanyrichhalberds,commonlycalledpartisans,withwhichtheguarddefendtheroyalpersoninbattle;somelances,coveredwithredandgreenvelvet,andthebody-armourofHenryVIII。;manyandverybeautifularms,aswellformenasforhorsesinhorse-fights;

  thelanceofCharlesBrandon,DukeofSuffolk,threespansthick;

  twopiecesofcannon,theonefiresthree,theothersevenballsatatime;twoothersmadeofwood,whichtheEnglishhasatthesiegeofBoulogne,inFrance。Andbythisstratagem,withoutwhichtheycouldnothavesucceeded,theystruckaterrorintotheinhabitants,asattheappearanceofartillery,andthetownwassurrendereduponarticles;nineteencannonofathickermakethanordinary,andinaroomapart;thirty-sixofasmaller;othercannonforchain-shot;

  andballspropertobringdownmastsofships。Cross-bows,bowsandarrows,ofwhichtothisdaytheEnglishmakegreatuseintheirexercises;butwhocanrelateallthatistobeseenhere?Eightorninemenemployedbytheyeararescarcesufficienttokeepallthearmsbright。

  TheMintforcoiningmoneyisintheTower。

  N。B。——Itistobenoted,thatwhenanyofthenobilityaresenthither,onthechargeofhighcrimes,punishablewithdeath,suchastreason,&c。,theyseldomorneverrecovertheirliberty。HerewasbeheadedAnneBoleyn,wifeofKingHenryVIII。,andliesburiedinthechapel,butwithoutanyinscription;andQueenElizabethwaskeptprisonerherebyhersister,QueenMary,atwhosedeathshewasenlarged,andbyrightcalledtothethrone。

  OncomingoutoftheTower,wewereledtoasmallhousecloseby,wherearekeptvarietyofcreatures,viz。——threelionesses;onelionofgreatsize,calledEdwardVI。fromhishavingbeenborninthatreign:atiger;alynx;awolfexcessivelyold——thisisaveryscarceanimalinEngland,sothattheirsheepandcattlestrayaboutingreatnumbers,freefromanydanger,thoughwithoutanybodytokeepthem;thereis,besides,aporcupine,andaneagle。Allthesecreaturesarekeptinaremoteplace,fittedupforthepurposewithwoodenlattices,attheQueen’sexpense。

  NeartothisTowerisalargeopenspace;onthehighestpartofitiserectedawoodenscaffold,fortheexecutionofnoblecriminals;

  uponwhich,theysay,threeprincesofEngland,thelastoftheirfamilies,havebeenbeheadedforhightreason;onthebankoftheThamesclosebyareagreatmanycannon,suchchieflyasareusedatsea。

  ThenextthingworthyofnoteistheRoyalExchange,sonamedbyQueenElizabeth,builtbySirThomasGresham,citizen,forpublicornamentandtheconvenienceofmerchants。Ithasagreateffect,whetheryouconsiderthestatelinessofthebuilding,theassemblageofdifferentnations,orthequantitiesofmerchandise。IshallsaynothingofthehallbelongingtotheHansSociety;oroftheconveyanceofwatertoallpartsofthetownbysubterraneouspipes,northebeautifulconduitsandcisternsforthereceptionofit;noroftheraisingofwateroutoftheThamesbyawheel,inventedafewyearssincebyaGerman。

  Bridewell,atpresenttheHouseofCorrection;itwasbuiltinsixweeksforthereceptionoftheEmperorCharlesV。

  AHallbuiltbyacobblerandbestowedonthecity,whereareexposedtosale,threetimesinaweek,corn,wool,cloth,fruits,andthelike。

  Withoutthecityaresometheatres,whereEnglishactorsrepresentalmosteverydaytragediesandcomediestoaverynumerousaudiences;theseareconcludedwithexcellentmusic,varietyofdances,andtheexcessiveapplauseofthosethatarepresent。

  Notfarfromoneofthesetheatres,whichareallbuiltofwood,liestheroyalbarge,closetotheriver。Ithastwosplendidcabins,beautifullyornamentedwithglasswindows,painting,andgilding;itiskeptupondryground,andshelteredfromtheweather。

  Thereisstillanotherplace,builtintheformofatheatre,whichservesforthebaitingofbullsandbears;theyarefastenedbehind,andthenworriedbygreatEnglishbull-dogs,butnotwithoutgreatrisktothedogs,fromthehornsoftheoneandtheteethoftheother;anditsometimeshappensthattheyarekilleduponthespot;

  freshonesareimmediatelysuppliedintheplacesofthosethatarewoundedortired。Tothisentertainmentthereoftenfollowsthatofwhippingablindedbear,whichisperformedbyfiveorsixmen,standingcircularlywithwhips,whichtheyexerciseuponhimwithoutanymercy,ashecannotescapefromthembecauseofhischain;hedefendshimselfwithallhisforceandskill,throwingdownallwhocomewithinhisreachandarenotactiveenoughtogetoutofit,andtearingthewhipsoutoftheirhandsandbreakingthem。Atthesespectacles,andeverywhereelse,theEnglishareconstantlysmokingtobacco;andinthismanner——theyhavepipesonpurposemadeofclay,intothefartherendofwhichtheyputtheherb,sodrythatitmayberubbedintopowder,andputtingfiretoit,theydrawthesmokeintotheirmouths,whichtheypuffoutagainthroughtheirnostrilslikefunnels,alongwithitplentyofphlegmanddefluxionfromthehead。Inthesetheatres,fruits,suchasapples,pears,andnuts,accordingtotheseason,arecarriedabouttobesold,aswellasaleandwine。

  Therearefifteencollegeswithinandwithoutthecity,noblybuilt,withbeautifulgardensadjoining。Ofthesethethreeprincipalare:-

  I。TheTemple,inhabitedformerlybytheKnightsTemplars;itseemstohavetakenitsnamefromtheoldtemple,orchurch,whichhasaroundtoweraddedtoit,underwhichliedburiedthoseKingsofDenmarkthatreignedinEngland。

  II。Gray’sInn。And,III。Lincoln’sInn。

  Inthesecollegesnumbersofyoungnobility,gentry,andothers,areeducated,andchieflyinthestudyofphysic,forveryfewapplythemselvestothatofthelaw;theyareallowedaverygoodtable,andsilvercupstodrinkoutof。Onceapersonofdistinction,whocouldnothelpbeingsurprisedatthegreatnumberofcups,said,\"Heshouldhavethoughtitmoresuitabletothelifeofstudents,iftheyhadusedratherglass,orearthenware,thansilver。\"Thecollegeanswered,\"Theywerereadytomakehimapresentofalltheirplate,providedhewouldundertaketosupplythemwithalltheglassandearthenwaretheyshouldhaveademandfor;sinceitwasverylikelyhewouldfindtheexpense,fromconstantbreaking,exceedthevalueofthesilver。\"

  Thestreetsinthiscityareveryhandsomeandclean;butthatwhichisnamedfromthegoldsmithswhoinhabitit,surpassesalltherest;

  thereisinitagilttower,withafountainthatplays。Nearit,onthefartherside,isahandsomehousebuiltbyagoldsmithandpresentedbyhimtothecity。Therearebesidestobeseeninthisstreet,asinallotherswheretherearegoldsmiths’shops,allsortsofgoldandsilvervesselsexposedtosale,aswellasancientandmodernmedals,insuchquantitiesasmustsurpriseamanthefirsttimeheseesandconsidersthem。

  Fitz-Stephen,awriterofEnglishhistory,reckonedinhistimeinLondononehundredandtwenty-sevenparishchurches,andthirteenbelongingtoconvents;hementions,besides,thatuponareviewthereofmenabletobeararms,thepeoplebroughtintothefieldundertheircoloursfortythousandfootandtwentythousandhorse。

  VIDECamden’s\"Britannia,\"Middlesex。

  Thebestoystersaresoldhereingreatquantities。

  EverybodyknowsthatEnglishclothismuchapprovedofforthegoodnessofthematerials,andimportedintoallthekingdomsandprovincesofEurope。

  Wewereshown,atthehouseofLeonardSmith,atailor,amostperfectlooking-glass,ornamentedwithgold,pearl,silver,andvelvet,sorichlyastobeestimatedatfivehundredecusdusoleil。

  Wesawatthesameplacethehippocampandeaglestone,bothverycuriousandrare。

  AndthusmuchofLondon。

  Upontakingtheairdowntheriver,thefirstthingthatstruckuswastheshipofthatnoblepirate,SirFrancisDrake,inwhichheissaidtohavesurroundedthisglobeofearth。OnthelefthandliesRatcliffe,aconsiderablesuburb:ontheoppositeshoreisfixedalongpolewithram’s-hornsuponit,theintentionofwhichwasvulgarlysaidtobeareflectionuponwilfulandcontentedcuckolds。

  WearrivednextattheroyalpalaceofGreenwich,reportedtohavebeenoriginallybuiltbyHumphrey,DukeofGloucester,andtohavereceivedverymagnificentadditionsfromHenryVII。ItwashereElizabeth,thepresentQueen,wasborn,andhershegenerallyresides,particularlyinsummer,forthedelightfulnessofitssituation。Wewereadmitted,byanorderMr。RogershadprocuredfromtheLordChamberlain,intothepresencechamber,hungwithrichtapestry,andthefloor,aftertheEnglishfashion,strewedwithhay,{8}throughwhichtheQueencommonlypassesonherwaytochapel。Atthedoorstoodagentlemandressedinvelvet,withagoldchain,whoseofficewastointroducetotheQueenanypersonofdistinctionthatcametowaitonher;itwasSunday,whenthereisusuallythegreatestattendanceofnobility。InthesamehallweretheArchbishopofCanterbury,theBishopofLondon,agreatnumberofCouncillorsofState,officersoftheCrown,andgentlemen,whowaitedtheQueen’scomingout;whichshedidfromherownapartmentwhenitwastimetogotoprayers,attendedinthefollowingmanner:-

  Firstwentgentlemen,barons,earls,KnightsoftheGarter,allrichlydressedandbareheaded;nextcametheChancellor,bearingthesealsinaredsilkpurse,betweentwo,oneofwhomcarriedtheRoyalsceptre,theothertheswordofstate,inaredscabbard,studdedwithgoldenFLEURSDELIS,thepointupwards:nextcametheQueen,inthesixty-fifthyearofherage,asweweretold,verymajestic;herfaceoblong,fair,butwrinkled;hereyessmall,yetblackandpleasant;hernosealittlehooked;herlipsnarrow,andherteethblack(adefecttheEnglishseemsubjectto,fromtheirtoogreatuseofsugar);shehadinherearstwopearls,withveryrichdrops;sheworefalsehair,andthatred;uponherheadshehadasmallcrown,reportedtobemadeofsomeofthegoldofthecelebratedLunebourgtable;herbosomwasuncovered,asalltheEnglishladieshaveittilltheymarry;andshehadonanecklaceofexceedingfinejewels;herhandsweresmall,herfingerslong,andherstatureneithertallnorlow;herairwasstately,hermannerofspeakingmildandobliging。Thatdayshewasdressedinwhitesilk,borderedwithpearlsofthesizeofbeans,andoveritamantleofblacksilk,shotwithsilverthreads;hertrainwasverylong,theendofitbornebyamarchioness;insteadofachain,shehadanoblongcollarofgoldandjewels。Asshewentalonginallthisstateandmagnificence,shespokeverygraciously,firsttoone,thentoanother,whetherforeignMinisters,orthosewhoattendedfordifferentreasons,inEnglish,French,andItalian;for,besidesbeingwellskilledinGreek,Latin,andthelanguagesIhavementioned,sheismistressofSpanish,Scotch,andDutch。Whoeverspeakstoher,itiskneeling;nowandthensheraisessomewithherhand。Whilewewerethere,W。Slawata,aBohemianbaron,hadletterstopresenttoher;andshe,afterpullingoffherglove,gavehimherrighthandtokiss,sparklingwithringsandjewels,amarkofparticularfavour。Whereversheturnedherface,asshewasgoingalong,everybodyfelldownontheirknees。{9}Theladiesofthecourtfollowednexttoher,veryhandsomeandwell-shaped,andforthemostpartdressedinwhite。Shewasguardedoneachsidebythegentlemenpensioners,fiftyinnumber,withgiltbattle-axes。

  Intheante-chapel,nextthehallwherewewere,petitionswerepresentedtoher,andshereceivedthemmostgraciously,whichoccasionedtheacclamationof\"LongLiveQueenElizabeth!\"Sheanswereditwith\"Ithankyou,mygoodpeople。\"Inthechapelwasexcellentmusic;assoonasitandtheservicewereover,whichscarceexceededhalfanhour,theQueenreturnedinthesamestateandorder,andpreparedtogotodinner。Butwhileshewasstillatprayers,wesawhertablesetoutwiththefollowingsolemnity:-

  Agentlemanenteredtheroombearingarod,andalongwithhimanotherwhohadatable-clothwhich,aftertheyhadbothkneeledthreetimeswiththeutmostveneration,hespreaduponthetable,and,afterkneelingagain,theybothretired。Thencametwoothers,onewiththerodagain,theotherwithasalt-cellar,aplate,andbread;whentheyhadkneeledastheothershaddone,andplacedwhatwasbroughtuponthetable,theytooretiredwiththesameceremoniesperformedbythefirst。Atlastcameanunmarriedlady(weweretoldshewasacountess),andalongwithheramarriedone,bearingatasting-knife;theformerwasdressedinwhitesilk,who,whenshehadprostratedherselfthreetimesinthemostgracefulmanner,approachedthetableandrubbedtheplateswithbreadandsaltwithasmuchaweasiftheQueenhadbeenpresent。Whentheyhadwaitedtherealittlewhile,theyeomenoftheguardsentered,bareheaded,clothedinscarlet,withagoldenroseupontheirbacks,bringinginateachturnacourseoftwenty-fourdishes,servedinplate,mostofitgilt;thesedisheswerereceivedbyagentlemaninthesameordertheywerebrought,andplaceduponthetable,whiletheladytastergavetoeachoftheguardamouthfultoeatoftheparticulardishhehadbrought,forfearofanypoison。Duringthetimethatthisguard,whichconsistsofthetallestandstoutestmenthatcanbefoundinallEngland,beingcarefullyselectedforthisservice,werebringingdinner,twelvetrumpetsandtwokettledrumsmadethehallringforhalfanhourtogether。Attheendofallthisceremonial,anumberofunmarriedladiesappeared,who,withparticularsolemnity,liftedthemeatoffthetable,andconveyeditintotheQueen’sinnerandmoreprivatechamber,where,aftershehadchosenforherself,therestgoestotheladiesoftheCourt。

  TheQueendinesandsupsalonewithveryfewattendants,anditisveryseldomthatanybody,foreignerornative,isadmittedatthattime,andthenonlyattheintercessionofsomebodyinpower。

  NearthispalaceistheQueen’spark,stockedwithdeer。SuchparksarecommonthroughoutEngland,belongingtothosethataredistinguishedeitherfortheirrankorriches。Inthemiddleofthisisanoldsquaretower,calledMirefleur,supposedtobethatmentionedintheromanceof\"AmadisdeGaul;\"andjoiningtoitaplain,whereknightsandothergentlemenusetomeet,atsettimesandholidays,toexerciseonhorseback。

  WeleftLondoninacoach,inordertoseetheremarkableplacesinitsneighbourhood。

  ThefirstwasTheobalds,belongingtoLordBurleigh,theTreasurer。

  InthegallerywaspaintedthegenealogyoftheKingsofEngland;

  fromthisplaceonegoesintothegarden,encompassedwithaditchfullofwater,largeenoughforonetohavethepleasureofgoinginaboatandrowingbetweentheshrubs;herearegreatvarietyoftreesandplants,labyrinthsmadewithagreatdealoflabour,aJET

  D’EAU,withitsbasinofwhitemarble,andcolumnsandpyramidsofwoodandothermaterialsupanddownthegarden。Afterseeingthese,wewereledbythegardenerintothesummer-house,inthelowerpartofwhich,builtsemicircularly,arethetwelveRomanemperorsinwhitemarble,andatableoftouchstone;theupperpartofitissetroundwithcisternsoflead,intowhichthewaterisconveyedthroughpipes,sothatfishmaybekeptinthem,andinsummer-timetheyareveryconvenientforbathing。Inanotherroomforentertainment,verynearthis,andjoinedtoitbyalittlebridge,wasanovaltableofredmarble。Wewerenotadmittedtoseetheapartmentsofthispalace,therebeingnobodytoshowit,asthefamilywasintown,attendingthefuneraloftheirlord。{10}

  Hoddesdon,avillage。

  Ware,amarkettown。

  Puckeridge,avillage;thiswasthefirstplacewhereweobservedthatthebedsatinnsweremadebythewaiters。

  Camboritum,CantabrigiumandCantabrigia,nowcalledCambridge,acelebratedtown,sonamedfromtheriverCam,whichafterwashingthewesternside,playingthroughislands,turnstotheeast,anddividesthetownintotwoparts,whicharejoinedbyabridge,whenceitsmodernname——formerlyithadtheSaxononeofGrantbridge。Beyondthisbridgeisanancientandlargecastle,saidtobebuiltbytheDanes:onthisside,wherefarthegreaterpartofthetownstands,allissplendid;thestreetsfine,thechurchesnumerous,andthoseseatsoftheMuses,thecolleges,mostbeautiful;intheseagreatnumberoflearnedmenaresupported,andthestudiesofallpolitesciencesandlanguagesflourish。

  IthinkpropertomentionsomefewthingsaboutthefoundationofthisUniversityanditscolleges。Cantaber,aSpaniard,isthoughttohavefirstinstitutedthisacademy375yearsbeforeChrist,andSebert,KingoftheEastAngles,tohaverestoreditA。D。630。ItwasafterwardssubvertedintheconfusionundertheDanes,andlaylongneglected,tillupontheNormanConquesteverythingbegantobrightenupagain:fromthattimeinnsandhallsfortheconvenientlodgingofstudentsbegantobebuilt,butwithoutanyrevenuesannexedtothem。

  Thefirstcollege,calledPeterHouse,wasbuiltandendowedbyHughBalsam,BishopofEly,A。D。1280;and,inimitationofhim,RichardBadew,withtheassistanceofElizabethBurke,CountessofClareandUlster,foundedClareHallin1326;MarydeSt。Paul,CountessofPembroke,PembrokeHallin1343;theMonksofCorpusChristi,thecollegeofthesamename,thoughithasbesidesthatofBennet;JohnCraudene,TrinityHall,1354;EdmondGonville,in1348,andJohnCaius,aphysicianinourtimes,GonvilleandCaiusCollege;KingHenryVI。,King’sCollege,in1441,addingtoitachapelthatmayjustlyclaimaplaceamongthemostbeautifulbuildingsintheworld。Onitsrightsideisafinelibrary,wherewesawthe\"BookofPsalms\"inmanuscript,uponparchmentfourspansinlengthandthreebroad,takenfromtheSpaniardsatthesiegeofCadiz,andthencebroughtintoEnglandwithotherrichspoils。MargaretofAnjou,hiswife,foundedQueen’sCollege,1448,atthesametimethatJohnAlcock,BishopofEly,builtJesusCollege;RobertWoodlarke,CatherineHall;MargaretofRichmond,motherofKingHenryVII。,Christ’sandSt。John’sColleges,about1506;ThomasAudley,ChancellorofEngland,MagdalenCollege,muchincreasedsincebothinbuildingsandrevenuebyChristopherWray,LordChiefJustice;andthemostpotentKingHenryVIII。erectedTrinityCollegeforreligionandpoliteletters——initschapelisthetombofDr。Whitacre,withaninscriptioningoldlettersuponmarble;

  EmanuelCollege,builtinourowntimesbythemosthonourableandprudentSirWalterMildmay,oneofHerMajesty’sPrivyCouncil;andlastly,SidneyCollege,nowfirstbuildingbytheexecutorsoftheLadyFrancesSidney,{11}CountessofSussex。

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