第4章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"Journal of A Voyage to Lisbon",免费读到尾

  Whatthenoughtingeneraltobesoplentiful,whatsocheap,asfish?Whatthensoproperlythefoodofthepoor?Soinmanyplacestheyare,andsomighttheyalwaysbeingreatcities,whicharealwayssituatednearthesea,orontheconfluxoflargerivers。Howcomesitthen,tolooknofartherabroadforinstances,thatinourcityofLondonthecaseissofarotherwisethat,exceptthatofsprats,thereisnotonepoorpalateinahundredthatknowsthetasteoffish?

  ItistrueindeedthatthistasteisgenerallyofsuchexcellentflavorthatitexceedsthepowerofFrenchcookerytotreatthepalatesoftherichwithanythingmoreexquisitelydelicate;sothatwasfishthecommonfoodofthepooritmightputthemtoomuchuponanequalitywiththeirbettersinthegreatarticleofeating,inwhich,atpresent,intheopinionofsome,thegreatdifferenceinhappinessbetweenmanandmanconsists。ButthisargumentIshalltreatwiththeutmostdisdain:forifortolanswereasbigasbuzzards,andatthesametimeasplentyassparrows,Ishouldholdityetreasonabletoindulgethepoorwiththedainty,andthatforthiscauseespecially,thattherichwouldsoonfindasparrow,ifasscarceasanortolan,tobemuchthegreater,asitwouldcertainlybetherarer,daintyofthetwo。

  Vanityorscarcitywillbealwaysthefavoriteofluxury;buthonesthungerwillbesatisfiedwithplenty。Nottosearchdeeperintothecauseoftheevil,Ishouldthinkitabundantlysufficienttoproposetheremediesofit。And,first,Ihumblysubmittheabsolutenecessityofimmediatelyhangingallthefishmongerswithinthebillsofmortality;and,howeveritmighthavebeensometimeagotheopinionofmildandtemporizingmenthattheevilcomplainedofmightberemovedbygentlermethods,Isupposeatthisdaytherearenonewhodonotseetheimpossibilityofusingsuchwithanyeffect。Cunctapriustentandamighthavebeenformerlyurgedwithsomeplausibility,butcunctapriustentatamaynowbereplied:forsurely,ifafewmonopolizingfishmongerscoulddefeatthatexcellentschemeoftheWestminstermarket,totheerectingwhichsomanyjusticesofpeace,aswellasotherwiseandlearnedmen,didsovehementlyapplythemselves,thattheymightbetrulysaidnotonlytohavelaidthewholestrengthoftheirheads,butoftheirshoulderstoo,tothebusiness,itwouldbeavainendeavorforanyotherbodyofmentoattempttoremovesostubbornanuisance。

  Ifitshouldbedoubtedwhetherwecanbringthiscasewithintheletterofanycapitallawnowsubsisting,Iamashamedtoownitcannot;forsurelynocrimebetterdeservessuchpunishment;buttheremedymay,nevertheless,beimmediate;andifalawwasmadeatthebeginningofnextsession,totakeplaceimmediately,bywhichthestarvingthousandsofpoorwasdeclaredtobefelony,withoutbenefitofclergy,thefishmongerswouldbehangedbeforetheendofthesession。Asecondmethodoffillingthemouthsofthepoor,ifnotwithloavesatleastwithfishes,istodesirethemagistratestocarryintoexecutiononeatleastoutofnearahundredactsofparliament,forpreservingthesmallfryoftheriverofThames,bywhichmeansasfewfishwouldsatisfythousandsasmaynowbedevouredbyasmallnumberofindividnals。Butwhileafishermancanbreakthroughthestrongestmeshesofanactofparliament,wemaybeassuredhewilllearnsotocontrivehisownmeshesthatthesmallestfrywillnotbeabletoswimthroughthem。

  Othermethodsmay,wedoubtnot,hesuggestedbythosewhoshallattentivelyconsidertheevilherehintedat;butwehavedwelttoolongonitalready,andshallconcludewithobservingthatitisdifficulttoaffirmwhethertheatrocityoftheevilitself,thefacilityofcuringit,ortheshamefulneglectofthecure,bethemorescandalousormoreastonishing。

  Afterhaving,however,gloriouslyregaledmyselfwiththisfood,Iwaswashingitdownwithsomegoodclaretwithmywifeandherfriend,inthecabin,whenthecaptain’svalet-de-chambre,headcook,houseandshipsteward,footmaninliveryandouton’t,secretaryandfore-mastman,allburstintothecabinatonce,being,indeed,allbutoneperson,and,withoutsaying,byyourleave,begantopackhalfahogsheadofsmallbeerinbottles,thenecessaryconsequenceofwhichmusthavebeeneitheratotalstoptoconversationatthatcheerfulseasonwhenitismostagreeable,ortheadmittingthatpolyonymousofficeraforesaidtotheparticipationofit。Idesiredhimthereforetodelayhispurposealittlelonger,butherefusedtograntmyrequest;norwasheprevailedontoquittheroomtillhewasthreatenedwithhavingonebottletopackmorethanhisnumber,whichthenhappenedtostandemptywithinmyreach。Withthesemenacesheretiredatlast,butnotwithoutmutteringsomemenacesonhisside,andwhich,toourgreatterror,hefailednottoputintoimmediateexecution。

  OurcaptainwasgonetodinnerthisdaywithhisSwissbrother;

  and,thoughhewasaverysoberman,wasalittleelevatedwithsomechampagne,which,asitcosttheSwisslittleornothing,hedispensedathistablemoreliberallythanourhospitableEnglishnoblemenputaboutthosebottles,whichtheingeniousPeterTaylorteachesaledcaptaintoavoidbydistinguishingbythenameofthatgenerousliquor,whichallhumblecompanionsaretaughttopostponetotheflavorofmethuen,orhonestport。

  Whileourtwocaptainswerethusregalingthemselves,andcelebratingtheirownheroicexploitswithalltheinspirationwhichtheliquor,atleast,ofwitcouldaffordthem,thepolyonymousofficerarrived,and,beingsalutedbythenameofHonestTom,wasorderedtositdownandtakehisglassbeforehedeliveredhismessage;foreverysailorisbyturnshiscaptain’smateoveracann,exceptonlythatcaptainbashawwhopresidesinaman-of-war,andwhouponearthhasnoothermate,unlessitbeanotherofthesamebashaws。Tomhadnosoonerswallowedhisdraughtthanhehastilybeganhisnarrative,andfaithfullyrelatedwhathadhappenedonboardourship;wesayfaithfully,thoughfromwhathappeneditmaybesuspectedthatTomchosetoaddperhapsonlyfiveorsiximmaterialcircumstances,asisalwaysIbelievethecase,andmaypossiblyhavebeendonebymeinrelatingthisverystory,thoughithappenednotmanyhoursago。

  Nosoonerwasthecaptaininformedoftheinterruptionwhichhadbeengiventohisofficer,andindeedtohisorders,forhethoughtnotimesoconvenientasthatofhisabsenceforcausinganyconfusioninthecabin,thanheleapedwithsuchhastefromhischairthathehadliketohavebrokehissword,withwhichhealwaysbegirthimselfwhenhewalkedoutofhisship,andsometimeswhenhewalkedaboutinit;atthesametime,graspingeagerlythatotherimplementcalledacockade,whichmodernsoldierswearontheirhelmetswiththesameviewastheancientsdidtheircrests——toterrifytheenemyhemutteredsomething,butsoinarticulatelythatthewordDAMNwasonlyintelligible;hethenhastilytookleaveoftheSwisscaptain,whowastoowellbredtopresshisstayonsuchanoccasion,andleapedfirstfromtheshiptohisboat,andthenfromhisboattohisownship,withasmuchfiercenessinhislooksashehadeverexpressedonboardinghisdefenselesspreyinthehonorablecallingofaprivateer。Havingregainedthemiddledeck,hepausedamomentwhileTomandothersloadedthemselveswithbottles,andthendescendingintothecabinexclaimedwithathunderingvoice,\"D——nme,whyarn’tthebottlesstowedin,accordingtomyorders?\"

  IansweredhimverymildlythatIhadpreventedhismanfromdoingit,asitwasataninconvenienttimetome,andasinhisabsence,atleast,Iesteemedthecabintobemyown。\"Yourcabin!\"repeatedhemanytimes;\"no,d——nme!’tismycabin。

  Yourcabin!d——nme!Ihavebroughtmyhogstoafairmarket。I

  supposeindeedyouthinkityourcabin,andyourship,byyourcommandinginit;butIwillcommandinit,d——nme!IwillshowtheworldIamthecommander,andnobodybutI!DidyouthinkI

  soldyouthecommandofmyshipforthatpitifulthirtypounds?I

  wishIhadnotseenyounoryourthirtypoundsaboardofher。\"

  Hethenrepeatedthewordsthirtypoundsoften,withgreatdisdain,andwithacontemptwhichIownthesumdidnotseemtodeserveinmyeye,eitherinitselforonthepresentoccasion;

  being,indeed,paidforthefreightof————weightofhumanflesh,whichisabovefiftypercentdearerthanthefreightofanyotherluggage,whilstinrealityittakesuplessroom;infact,noroomatall。

  Intruth,thesumwaspaidfornothingmorethanforalibertytosixpersons(twoofthemservants)tostayonboardashipwhileshesailsfromoneporttoanother,everyshillingofwhichcomesclearintothecaptain’spocket。Ignorantpeoplemayperhapsimagine,especiallywhentheyaretoldthatthecaptainisobligedtosustainthem,thattheirdietatleastisworthsomething,whichmayprobablybenowandthensofarthecaseastodeductatenthpartfromthenetprofitsonthisaccount;butitwasotherwiseatpresent;forwhenIhadcontractedwiththecaptainatapricewhichIbynomeansthoughtmoderate,IhadsomecontentinthinkingIshouldhavenomoretopayformyvoyage;butIwaswhisperedthatitwasexpectedthepassengersshouldfindthemselvesinseveralthings;suchastea,wine,andsuchlike;andparticularlythatgentlemenshouldstowofthelatteramuchlargerquantitythantheycoulduse,inordertoleavetheremainderasapresenttothecaptainattheendofthevoyage;anditwasexpectedlikewisethatgentlemenshouldputaboardsomefreshstores,andthemoreofsuchthingswereputaboardthewelcomertheywouldbetothecaptain。

  Iwasprevailedwithbythesehintstofollowtheadviceproposed;andaccordingly,besidesteaandalargehamperofwine,withseveralhamsandtongues,Icausedanumberoflivechickensandsheeptobeconveyedaboard;intruth,treblethequantityofprovisionswhichwouldhavesupportedthepersonsI

  tookwithme,hadthevoyagecontinuedthreeweeks,asitwassupposed,withabarepossibility,itmight。

  Indeeditcontinuedmuchlonger;butasthiswasoccasionedbyourbeingwind-boundinourownports,itwasbynomeansofanyillconsequencetothecaptain,astheadditionalstoresoffish,freshmeat,butter,bread,&c。,whichIconstantlylaidin,greatlyexceededtheconsumption,andwentsomewayinmaintainingtheship’screw。ItistrueIwasnotobligedtodothis;butitseemedtobeexpected;forthecaptaindidnotthinkhimselfobligedtodoit,andIcantrulysayIsoonceasedtoexpectitofhim。Hehad,Iconfess,onboardanumberoffowlsandduckssufficientforaWestIndiavoyage;allofthem,asheoftensaid,\"Veryfinebirds,andofthelargestbreed。\"ThisI

  believewasreallythefact,andIcanaddthattheywereallarrivedatthefullperfectionoftheirsize。Norwasthere,I

  amconvinced,anywantofprovisionsofamoresubstantialkind;

  suchasdriedbeef,pork,andfish;sothatthecaptainseemedreadytoperformhiscontract,andamplytoprovideforhispassengers。WhatIdidthenwasnotfromnecessity,but,perhaps,fromalessexcusablemotive,andwasbynomeanschargeabletotheaccountofthecaptain。

  But,letthemotivehavebeenwhatitwould,theconsequencewasstillthesame;andthiswassuchthatIamfirmlypersuadedthewholepitifulthirtypoundscamepureandneatintothecaptain’spocket,andnotonlyso,butattendedwiththevalueoftenpoundmoreinsundriesintothebargain。ImustconfessmyselfthereforeatalosshowtheepithetPITIFULcametobeannexedtotheabovesum;for,notbeingapitifulpriceforwhatitwasgiven,Icannotconceiveittobepitifulinitself;nordoI

  believeitisthoughtbythegreatestmeninthekingdom;noneofwhomwouldscrupletosearchforitinthedirtiestkennel,wheretheyhadonlyareasonablehopeofsuccess。How,therefore,suchasumshouldacquiretheideaofpitifulintheeyesofthemasterofashipseemsnoteasytobeaccountedfor;sinceitappearsmorelikelytoproduceinhimideasofadifferentkind。

  Somemen,perhaps,arenomoresincereinthecontemptforitwhichtheyexpressthanothersintheircontemptofmoneyingeneral;andIamtheratherinclinedtothispersuasion,asI

  haveseldomheardofeitherwhohaverefusedorrefundedthistheirdespisedobject。Besides,itissometimesimpossibletobelievetheseprofessions,aseveryactionoftheman’slifeisacontradictiontoit。Whocanbelieveatradesmanwhosayshewouldnottellhisnamefortheprofithegetsbythesellingsuchaparcelofgoods,whenhehathtoldathousandliesinordertogetit?Pitiful,indeed,isoftenappliedtoanobjectnotabsolutely,butcomparativelywithourexpectations,orwithagreaterobject:inwhichsenseitisnoteasytosetanyboundstotheuseoftheword。Thus,ahandfulofhalfpencedailyappearpitifultoaporter,andahandfulofsilvertoadrawer。Thelatter,Iamconvinced,atapolitetavern,willnottellhisname(forhewillnotgiveyouanyanswer)underthepriceofgold。Andinthissensethirtypoundmaybeaccountedpitifulbythelowestmechanic。

  Onedifficultyonlyseemstooccur,andthatisthis:howcomesitthat,iftheprofitsofthemeanestartsaresoconsiderable,theprofessorsofthemarenotricherthanwegenerallyseethem?

  Oneanswertothisshallsuffice。Mendonotbecomerichbywhattheyget,butbywhattheykeep。Hewhoisworthnomorethanhisannualwagesorsalary,spendsthewhole;hewillbealwaysabeggarlethisincomebewhatitwill,andsowillbehisfamilywhenhedies。Thisweseedailytobethecaseofecclesiastics,who,duringtheirlives,areextremelywellprovidedfor,onlybecausetheydesiretomaintainthehonoroftheclothbylivinglikegentlemen,whichwould,perhaps,bebettermaintainedbylivingunlikethem。

  But,toreturnfromsolongadigression,towhichtheuseofsoimproperanepithetgaveoccasion,andtowhichthenoveltyofthesubjectallured,IwillmakethereaderamendsbyconciselytellinghimthatthecaptainpouredforthsuchatorrentofabusethatIveryhastilyandveryfoolishlyresolvedtoquittheship。

  IgaveimmediateorderstosummonahoytocarrymethateveningtoDartmouth,withoutconsideringanyconsequence。ThoseordersIgaveinnoverylowvoice,sothatthoseabovestairsmightpossiblyconceivetherewasmorethanonemasterinthecabin。

  InthesametoneIlikewisethreatenedthecaptainwiththatwhich,heafterwardssaid,hefearedmorethananyrockorquicksand。Norcanwewonderatthiswhenwearetoldhehadbeentwiceobligedtobringtoandcastanchortherebefore,andhadneithertimeescapedwithoutthelossofalmosthiswholecargo。

  Themostdistantsoundoflawthusfrightenedamanwhohadoften,Iamconvinced,heardnumbersofcannonroarroundhimwithintrepidity。Nordidhesoonerseethehoyapproachingthevesselthanherandownagainintothecabin,and,hisragebeingperfectlysubsided,hetumbledonhisknees,andalittletooabjectlyimploredformercy。

  Ididnotsufferabravemanandanoldmantoremainamomentinthisposture,butIimmediatelyforgavehim。

  Andhere,thatImaynotbethoughttheslytrumpeterofmyownpraises,Idoutterlydisclaimallpraiseontheoccasion。

  Neitherdidthegreatnessofmyminddictate,northeforceofmyChristianityexact,thisforgiveness。Tospeaktruth,Iforgavehimfromamotivewhichwouldmakemenmuchmoreforgivingiftheyweremuchwiserthantheyare,becauseitwasconvenientformesotodo。

  Wednesday。——ThismorningthecaptaindressedhimselfinscarletinordertopayavisittoaDevonshiresquire,towhomacaptainofashipisaguestofnoordinaryconsequence,asheisastrangerandagentleman,whohathseenagreatdealoftheworldinforeignparts,andknowsallthenewsofthetimes。

  Thesquire,therefore,wastosendhisboatforthecaptain,butamostunfortunateaccidenthappened;for,asthewindwasextremelyroughandagainstthehoy,whilethiswasendeavoringtoavailitselfofgreatseamanshipinhaulingupagainstthewind,asuddensquallcarriedoffsailandyard,oratleastsodisabledthemthattheywerenolongerofanyuseandunabletoreachtheship;butthecaptain,fromthedeck,sawhishopesofvenisondisappointed,andwasforcedeithertostayonboardhisship,ortohoistforthhisownlong-boat,whichhecouldnotprevailwithhimselftothinkof,thoughthesmellofthevenisonhadhadtwentytimesitsattraction。Hedid,indeed,lovehisshipashiswife,andhisboatsaschildren,andneverwillinglytrustedthelatter,poorthings!tothedangersofthesea。

  Tosaytruth,notwithstandingthestrictrigorwithwhichhepreservedthedignityofhisstationsandthehastyimpatiencewithwhichheresentedanyaffronttohispersonororders,disobediencetowhichhecouldinnoinstancebrookinanypersononboard。hewasoneofthebestnaturedfellowsalive。Heactedthepartofafathertohissailors;heexpressedgreattendernessforanyofthemwhenill,andneversufferedanytheleastworkofsupererogationtogounrewardedbyaglassofgin。

  Heevenextendedhishumanity,ifImaysocallit,toanimals,andevenhiscatsandkittenshadlargesharesinhisaffections。

  Aninstanceofwhichwesawthisevening,whenthecat,whichhadshownitcouldnotbedrowned,wasfoundsuffocatedunderafeather-bedinthecabin。Iwillnotendeavortodescribehislamentationswithmoreprolixitythanbarelybysayingtheyweregrievous,andseemedtohavesomemixtureoftheIrishhowlinthem。Nay,hecarriedhisfondnesseventoinanimateobjects,ofwhichwehaveabovesetdownapregnantexampleinhisdemonstrationofloveandtendernesstowardshisboatsandship。

  Hespokeofashipwhichhehadcommandedformerly,andwhichwaslongsincenomore,whichhehadcalledthePrincessofBrazil,asawidowerofadeceasedwife。Thisship,afterhavingfollowedthehonestbusinessofcarryinggoodsandpassengersforhiremanyyears,didatlasttaketoevilcoursesandturnprivateer,inwhichservice,tousehisownwords,shereceivedmanydreadfulwounds,whichhehimselfhadfeltasiftheyhadbeenhisown。

  Thursday。——Asthewinddidnotyesterdaydiscoveranypurposeofshifting,andthewaterinmybellygrewtroublesomeandrenderedmeshort-breathed,Ibeganasecondtimetohaveapprehensionsofwantingtheassistanceofatrocharwhennonewastobefound;I

  thereforeconcludedtobetappedagainbywayofprecaution,andaccordinglyIthismorningsummonedonboardasurgeonfromaneighboringparish,onewhomthecaptaingreatlyrecommended,andwhodidindeedperformhisofficewithmuchdexterity。Hewas,I

  believe,likewiseamanofgreatjudgmentandknowledgeintheprofession;butofthisIcannotspeakwithperfectcertainty,for,whenhewasgoingtoopenonthedropsyatlargeandontheparticulardegreeofthedistemperunderwhichIlabored,Iwasobligedtostophimshort,forthewindwaschanged,andthecaptainintheutmosthurrytodepart;andtodesirehim,insteadofhisopinion,toassistmewithhisexecution。Iwasnowoncemoredeliveredfrommyburden,whichwasnotindeedsogreatasI

  hadapprehended,wantingtwoquartsofwhatwasletoutatthelastoperation。

  Whilethesurgeonwasdrawingawaymywaterthesailorsweredrawinguptheanchor;bothwerefinishedatthesametime;weunfurledoursailsandsoonpassedtheBerry-head,whichformsthemouthofthebay。

  Wehadnothoweversailedfarwhenthewind,which,hadthoughwithaslowpace,keptuscompanyaboutsixmiles,suddenlyturnedabout,andofferedtoconductusbackagain;afavorwhich,thoughsorelyagainstthegrain,wewereobligedtoaccept。

  Nothingremarkablehappenedthisday;forastothefirmpersuasionofthecaptainthathewasunderthespellofwitchcraft,Iwouldnotrepeatittoooften,thoughindeedherepeateditanhundredtimeseveryday;intruth,hetalkedofnothingelse,andseemednotonlytobesatisfiedingeneralofhisbeingbewitched,butactuallytohavefixedwithgoodcertaintyonthepersonofthewitch,whom,hadhelivedinthedaysofSirMatthewHale,hewouldhaveinfalliblyindicted,andverypossiblyhavehanged,forthedetestablesinofwitchcraft;

  butthatlaw,andthewholedoctrinethatsupportedit,arenowoutoffashion;andwitches,asalearneddivineoncechosetoexpresshimself,areputdownbyactofparliament。Thiswitch,inthecaptain’sopinion,wasnootherthanMrs。FrancisofRyde,who,asheinsinuated,outofangertomefornotspendingmoremoneyinherhousethanshecouldproduceanythingtoexchangefor,orallypretensetochargefor,hadlaidthisspellonhisship。

  Thoughwewereagaingotnearourharborbythreeintheafternoon,yetitseemedtorequireafullhourormorebeforewecouldcometoourformerplaceofanchoring,orberth,asthecaptaincalledit。Onthisoccasionweexemplifiedoneofthefewadvantageswhichthetravelersbywaterhaveoverthetravelersbyland。WhatwouldthelatteroftengiveforthesightofoneofthosehospitablemansionswhereheisassuredTHATTHEREISGOODENTERTAINMENTFORMANANDHORSE;andwherebothmayconsequentlypromisethemselvestoassuagethathungerwhichexerciseissosuretoraiseinahealthyconstitution。

  Attheirarrivalatthismansionhowmuchhappieristhestateofthehorsethanthatofthemaster!Theformerisimmediatelyledtohisrepast,suchasitis,and,whateveritis,hefallstoitwithappetite。Butthelatterisinamuchworsesituation。Hishunger,howeverviolent,isalwaysinsomedegreedelicate,andhisfoodmusthavesomekindofornament,or,asthemoreusualphraseis,ofdressing,torecommendit。Nowalldressingrequirestime,andtherefore,thoughperhapsthesheepmightbejustkilledbeforeyoucametotheinn,yetincuttinghimup,fetchingthejoint,whichthelandlordbymistakesaidhehadinthehouse,fromthebutcherattwomiles’distance,andafterwardswarmingitalittlebythefire,twohoursatleastmustbeconsumed,whilehunger,forwantofbetterfood,preysallthetimeonthevitalsoftheman。

  Howdifferentwasthecasewithus!wecarriedourprovision,ourkitchen,andourcookwithus,andwewereatoneandthesametimetravelingonourroad,andsittingdowntoarepastoffish,withwhichthegreatesttableinLondoncanscarceatanyratebesupplied。

  Friday。——Asweweredisappointedofourwind,andobligedtoreturnbacktheprecedingevening,weresolvedtoextractallthegoodwecouldoutofourmisfortune,andtoaddconsiderablytoourfreshstoresofmeatandbread,withwhichwewereveryindifferentlyprovidedwhenwehurriedawayyesterday。Bythecaptain’sadvicewelikewiselaidinsomestoresofbutter,whichwesaltedandpottedourselves,forouruseatLisbon,andwehadgreatreasonafterwardstothankhimforhisadvice。

  IntheafternoonIpersuadedmywifewhomitwasnoeasymatterformetoforcefrommyside,totakeawalkonshore,whitherthegallantcaptaindeclaredhewasreadytoattendher。

  Accordinglytheladiessetout,andleftmetoenjoyasweetandcomfortablenapaftertheoperationoftheprecedingday。

  Thusweenjoyedourseparatepleasuresfullthreehours,whenwemetagain,andmywifegavetheforegoingaccountofthegentlemanwhomIhavebeforecomparedtoAxylus,andofhishabitation,tobothwhichshehadbeenintroducedbythecaptain,inthestyleofanoldfriendandacquaintance,thoughthisfoundationofintimacyseemedtohertobenodeeperlaidthaninanaccidentaldinner,eatenmanyyearsbefore,atthistempleofhospitality,whenthecaptainlaywind-boundinthesamebay。

  Saturday。——Earlythismorningthewindseemedinclinedtochangeinourfavor。Ouralertcaptainsnatcheditsveryfirstmotion,andgotundersailwithsoverygentleabreezethat,asthetidewasagainsthim,herecommendedtoafishingboytobringafterhimavastsalmonandsomeotherprovisionswhichlayreadyforhimonshore。

  Ouranchorwasupatsix,andbeforenineinthemorningwehaddoubledtheBerry-head,andwerearrivedoffDartmouth,havinggonefullthreemilesinasmanyhours,indirectoppositiontothetide,whichonlybefriendedusoutofourharbor;andthoughthewindwasperhapsourfriend,itwassoverysilent,andexerteditselfsolittleinourfavor,that,likesomecoolpartisans,itwasdifficulttosaywhetheritwaswithusoragainstus。Thecaptain,however,declaredtheformertobethecaseduringthewholethreehours;butatlastheperceivedhiserror,orrather,perhaps,thisfriend,whichhadhithertowaveredinchoosinghisside,becamenowmoredetermined。Thecaptainthensuddenlytackedabout,and,assertingthathewasbewitched,submittedtoreturntotheplacefromwhencehecame。

  Now,thoughIamasfreefromsuperstitionasanymanbreathing,andneverdidbelieveinwitches,notwithstandingalltheexcellentargumentsofmylordchief-justiceHaleintheirfavor,andlongbeforetheywereputdownbyactofparliament,yetbywhatpowerashipofburdenshouldsailthreemilesagainstbothwindandtide,Icannotconceive,unlesstherewassomesupernaturalinterpositioninthecase;nay,couldweadmitthatthewindstoodneuter,thedifficultywouldstillremain。Sothatwemustofnecessityconcludethattheshipwaseitherbewindedorbewitched。Thecaptain,perhaps,hadanothermeaning。Heimaginedhimself,Ibelieve,bewitched,becausethewind,insteadofperseveringinitschangeinhisfavor,forchangeitcertainlydidthatmorning,shouldsuddenlyreturntoitsfavoritestation,andblowhimbacktowardsthebay。But,ifthiswashisopinion,hesoonsawcausetoalter;forhehadnotmeasuredhalfthewaybackwhenthewindagaindeclaredinhisfavor,andsoloudly,thattherewasnopossibilityofbeingmistaken。Theordersforthesecondtackweregiven,andobeyedwithmuchmorealacritythanthosehadbeenforthefirst。Wewereallofusindeedinhighspiritsontheoccasion;thoughsomeofusalittleregrettedthegoodthingswewerelikelytoleavebehindusbythefisherman’sneglect;Imightgiveitaworsename,forhefaithfullypromisedtoexecutethecommission,whichhehadhadabundantopportunitytodo;butnauticafidesdeservesasmuchtobeproverbialaseverPunicafidescouldformerlyhavedone。Nay,whenweconsiderthattheCarthaginianscamefromthePhenicianswhoaresupposedtohaveproducedthefirstmariners,wemayprobablyseethetruereasonoftheadage,anditmayopenafieldofverycuriousdiscoveriestotheantiquarian。

  Wewere,however,tooeagertopursueourvoyagetosufferanythingweleftbehindustointerruptourhappiness,which,indeed,manyagreeablecircumstancesconspiredtoadvance。Theweatherwasinexpressiblypleasant,andwewereallseatedonthedeck,whenourcanvasbegantoswellwiththewind。Wehadlikewiseinourviewabovethirtyothersailaroundus,allinthesamesituation。Hereanobservationoccurredtome,which,perhaps,thoughextremelyobvious,didnotofferitselftoeveryindividualinourlittlefleet:whenIperceivedwithwhatdifferentsuccessweproceededundertheinfluenceofasuperiorpowerwhich,whilewelayalmostidleourselves,pushedusforwardonourintendedvoyage,andcomparedthiswiththeslowprogresswhichwehadmadeinthemorning,ofourselves,andwithoutanysuchassistance,Icouldnothelpreflectinghowoftenthegreatestabilitiesliewind-boundasitwereinlife;

  or,iftheyventureoutandattempttobeattheseas,theystruggleinvainagainstwindandtide,and,iftheyhavenotsufficientprudencetoputback,aremostprobablycastawayontherocksandquicksandswhichareeverydayreadytodevourthem。

  Itwasnowourfortunetosetoutmelioribusavibus。Thewindfreshenedsobrisklyinourpoopthattheshoreappearedtomovefromusasfastaswedidfromtheshore。Thecaptaindeclaredhewassureofawind,meaningitscontinuance;buthehaddisappointedussooftenthathehadlostallcredit。However,hekepthiswordalittlebetternow,andwelostsightofournativelandasjoyfully,atleast,asitisusualtoregainit。

  Sunday。——ThenextmorningthecaptaintoldmehethoughthimselfthirtymilestothewestwardofPlymouth,andbeforeeveningdeclaredthattheLizardPoint,whichistheextremityofCornwall,boreseveralleaguestoleeward。Nothingremarkablepassedthisday,exceptthecaptain’sdevotion,who,inhisownphrase,summonedallhandstoprayers,whichwerereadbyacommonsailorupondeck,withmoredevoutforceandaddressthantheyarecommonlyreadbyacountrycurate,andreceivedwithmoredecencyandattentionbythesailorsthanareusuallypreservedincitycongregations。Iamindeedassured,thatifanysuchaffecteddisregardofthesolemnofficeinwhichtheywereengaged,asIhaveseenpracticedbyfinegentlemenandladies,expressingakindofapprehensionlesttheyshouldbesuspectedofbeingreallyinearnestintheirdevotion,hadbeenshownhere,theywouldhavecontractedthecontemptofthewholeaudience。Tosaythetruth,fromwhatIobservedinthebehaviorofthesailorsinthisvoyage,andoncomparingitwithwhatI

  haveformerlyseenofthematseaandonshore,Iamconvincedthatonlandthereisnothingmoreidleanddissolute;intheirownelementtherearenopersonsneartheleveloftheirdegreewholiveintheconstantpracticeofhalfsomanygoodqualities。

  Theyare,formuchthegreaterpart,perfectmastersoftheirbusiness,andalwaysextremelyalert,andreadyinexecutingit,withoutanyregardtofatigueorhazard。Thesoldiersthemselvesarenotbetterdisciplinednormoreobedienttoordersthanthesewhilstaboard;theysubmittoeverydifficultywhichattendstheircallingwithcheerfulness,andnolessvirtuesandpatienceandfortitudeareexercisedbythemeverydayoftheirlives。

  Allthesegoodqualities,however,theyalwaysleavebehindthemonshipboard;thesailoroutofwateris,indeed,aswretchedananimalasthefishoutofwater;forthoughtheformerhath,incommonwithamphibiousanimals,thebarepowerofexistingontheland,yetifhebekeptthereanytimeheneverfailstobecomeanuisance。Theshiphavinghadagooddealofmotionsinceshewaslastundersail,ourwomenreturnedtotheirsickness,andI

  tomysolitude;having,fortwenty-fourhourstogether,scarceopenedmylipstoasingleperson。Thiscircumstanceofbeingshutupwithinthecircumferenceofafewyards,withascoreofhumancreatures,withnotoneofwhomitwaspossibletoconverse,wasperhapssorareasscarceevertohavehappenedbefore,norcoulditeverhappentoonewhodislikeditmorethanmyself,ortomyselfataseasonwhenIwantedmorefoodformysocialdisposition,orcouldconverselesswholesomelyandhappilywithmyownthoughts。Tothisaccident,whichfortuneopenedtomeintheDowns,wasowingthefirstseriousthoughtwhichIeverentertainedofenrollingmyselfamongthevoyage-writers;someofthemostamusingpages,if,indeed,therebeanywhichdeservethatname,werepossiblytheproductionofthemostdisagreeablehourswhicheverhauntedtheauthor。

  Monday。——Atnoonthecaptaintookanobservation,bywhichitappearedthatUshantboresomeleaguesnorthwardofus,andthatwewerejustenteringthebayofBiscay。Wehadadvancedaveryfewmilesinthisbaybeforewewereentirelybecalmed:wefurledoursails,asbeingofnousetouswhilewelayinthismostdisagreeablesituation,moredetestedbythesailorsthanthemostviolenttempest:wewerealarmedwiththelossofafinepieceofsaltbeef,whichhadbeenhungintheseatofreshenit;thisbeing,itseems,thestrangepropertyofsalt-water。Thethiefwasimmediatelysuspected,andpresentlyafterwardstakenbythesailors。Hewas,indeed,nootherthanahugeshark,who,notknowingwhenhewaswelloff,swallowedanotherpieceofbeef,togetherwithagreatironcrookonwhichitwashung,andbywhichhewasdraggedintotheship。Ishouldscarcehavementionedthecatchingthisshark,thoughsoexactlyconformabletotherulesandpracticeofvoyage-writing,haditnotbeenforastrangecircumstancethatattendedit。Thiswastherecoveryofthestolenbeefoutoftheshark’smaw,whereitlayunchewedandundigested,andwhence,beingconveyedintothepot,theflesh,andthethiefthathadstolenit,joinedtogetherinfurnishingvarietytotheship’screw。

  Duringthiscalmwelikewisefoundthemastofalargevessel,whichthecaptainthoughthadlainatleastthreeyearsinthesea。Itwasstuckalloverwithalittleshell-fishorreptile,calledabarnacle,andwhichprobablyarethepreyoftherockfish,asourcaptaincallsit,assertingthatitisthefinestfishintheworld;forwhichweareobligedtoconfideentirelytohistaste;for,thoughhestruckthefishwithakindofharping-iron,andwoundedhim,Iamconvinced,todeath,yethecouldnotpossesshimselfofhisbody;butthepoorwretchescapedtolingeroutafewhourswithprobablygreattorments。

  Intheeveningourwindreturned,andsobriskly,thatweranupwardsoftwentyleaguesbeforethenextday’s[Tuesday’s]

  observation,whichbroughtustolat。47degrees42’。Thecaptainpromisedusaveryspeedypassagethroughthebay;buthedeceivedus,orthewinddeceivedhim,foritsoslackenedatsunset,thatitscarcecarriedusamileinanhourduringthewholesucceedingnight。

  Wednesday。——Agalestruckupalittleaftersunrising,whichcarriedusbetweenthreeandfourknotsormilesanhour。WewerethisdayatnoonaboutthemiddleofthebayofBiscay,whenthewindoncemoredesertedus,andweweresoentirelybecalmed,thatwedidnotadvanceamileinmanyhours。Myfresh-waterreaderwillperhapsconceivenounpleasantideafromthiscalm;

  butitaffectedusmuchmorethanastormcouldhavedone;for,astheirasciblepassionsofmenareapttoswellwithindignationlongaftertheinjurywhichfirstraisedthemisover,sofareditwiththesea。Itrosemountainshigh,andliftedourpoorshipupanddown,backwardsandforwards,withsoviolentanemotion,thattherewasscarceamanintheshipbetterabletostandthanmyself。Everyutensilinourcabinrolledupanddown,asweshouldhaverolledourselves,hadnotourchairsbeenfastlashedtothefloor。Inthissituation,withourtableslikewisefastenedbyropes,thecaptainandmyselftookourmealwithsomedifficulty,andswallowedalittleofourbroth,forwespiltmuchthegreaterpart。Theremainderofourdinnerbeinganold,lean,tameduckroasted,Iregrettedbutlittlethelossof,myteethnotbeinggoodenoughtohavechewedit。

  Ourwomen,whobegantocreepoutoftheirholesinthemorning,retiredagainwithinthecabintotheirbeds,andwerenomoreheardofthisday,inwhichmywholecomfortwastofindbythecaptain’srelationthattheswellingwassometimesmuchworse;hedid,indeed,takethisoccasiontobemorecommunicativethanever,andinformedmeofsuchmisadventuresthathadbefallenhimwithinforty-sixyearsatseaasmightfrightenaveryboldspiritfromundertakingeventheshortestvoyage。Werethese,indeed,butuniversallyknown,ourmatronsofqualitywouldpossiblybedeterredfromventuringtheirtenderoffspringatsea;bywhichmeansournavywouldlosethehonorofmanyayoungcommodore,whoattwenty-twoisbetterversedinmaritimeaffairsthanrealseamenaremadebyexperienceatsixty。Andthismay,perhaps,appearthemoreextraordinary,astheeducationofbothseemstobeprettymuchthesame;neitherofthemhavinghadtheircouragetriedbyVirgil’sdescriptionofastorm,inwhich,inspiredashewas,Idoubtwhetherourcaptaindothnotexceedhim。Intheeveningthewind,whichcontinuedintheN。W。,againfreshened,andthatsobrisklythatCapeFinisterreappearedbythisday’sobservationtobearafewmilestothesouthward。Wenowindeedsailed,orratherflew,neartenknotsanhour;andthecaptain,intheredundancyofhisgood-humor,declaredhewouldgotochurchatLisbononSundaynext,forthathewassureofawind;and,indeed,weallfirmlybelievedhim。Buttheeventagaincontradictedhim;forwewereagainvisitedbyacalmintheevening。

  Buthere,thoughourvoyagewasretarded,wewereentertainedwithascene,whichasnoonecanbeholdwithoutgoingtosea,sonoonecanformanideaofanythingequaltoitonshore。Wewereseatedonthedeck,womenandall,intheserenesteveningthatcanbeimagined。Notasinglecloudpresenteditselftoourview,andthesunhimselfwastheonlyobjectwhichengrossedourwholeattention。Hedidindeedsetwithamajestywhichisincapableofdescription,withwhich,whilethehorizonwasyetblazingwithglory,oureyeswerecalledofftotheoppositeparttosurveythemoon,whichwasthenatfull,andwhichinrisingpresenteduswiththesecondobjectthatthisworldhathofferedtoourvision。Comparedtothesethepageantryoftheaters,orsplendorofcourts,aresightsalmostbelowtheregardofchildren。Wedidnotreturnfromthedecktilllateintheevening;theweatherbeinginexpressiblypleasant,andsowarmthatevenmyolddistemperperceivedthealterationoftheclimate。Therewasindeedaswell,butnothingcomparabletowhatwehadfeltbefore,anditaffectedusonthedeckmuchlessthaninthecabin。

  Friday。——Thecalmcontinuedtillsun-rising,whenthewindlikewisearose,butunluckilyforusitcamefromawrongquarter;itwasS。S。E。,whichisthatverywindwhichJunowouldhavesolicitedofAeolus,hadGneasbeeninourlatitudeboundforLisbon。

  Thecaptainnowputonhismostmelancholyaspect,andresumedhisformeropinionthathewasbewitched。Hedeclaredwithgreatsolemnitythatthiswasworseandworse,forthatawinddirectlyinhisteethwasworsethannowindatall。HadwepursuedthecoursewhichthewindpersuadedustotakewehadgonedirectlyforNewfoundland,ifwehadnotfalleninwithIrelandinourway。Twowaysremainedtoavoidthis;onewastoputintoaportofGalicia;theother,tobeattothewestwardwithaslittlesailaspossible:andthiswasourcaptain’selection。

  Asforus,poorpassengers,anyportwouldhavebeenwelcometous;especially,asnotonlyourfreshprovisions,exceptagreatnumberofoldducksandfowls,butevenourbreadwascometoanend,andnothingbutsea-biscuitremained,whichIcouldnotchew。SothatnowforthefirsttimeinmylifeIsawwhatitwastowantabitofbread。

  Thewindhoweverwasnotsounkindaswehadapprehended;but,havingdeclinedwiththesun,itchangedattheapproachofthemoon,andbecameagainfavorabletous,thoughsogentlethatthenextday’sobservationcarriedusverylittletothesouthwardofCapeFinisterre。Thiseveningatsixthewind,whichhadbeenveryquietallday,roseveryhigh,andcontinuinginourfavordroveussevenknotsanhour。

  Thisdaywesawasail,theonlyone,asIheardof,wehadseeninourwholepassagethroughthebay。Imentionthisonaccountofwhatappearedtomesomewhatextraordinary。ThoughshewasatsuchadistancethatIcouldonlyperceiveshewasaship,thesailorsdiscoveredthatshewasasnow,boundtoaportinGalicia。

  Sunday。——Afterprayers,whichourgoodcaptainreadonthedeckwithanaudiblevoice,andwithbutonemistake,ofalionforElias,inthesecondlessonforthisday,wefoundourselvesfaradvancedin42degrees,andthecaptaindeclaredweshouldsupoffPorte。Wehadnotmuchwindthisday;but,asthiswasdirectlyinourfavor,wemadeitupwithsail,ofwhichwecrowdedallwehad。Wewentonlyattherateoffourmilesanhour,butwithsouneasyamotion,continuingrollingfromsidetoside,thatIsufferedmorethanIhaddoneinourwholevoyage;mybowelsbeingalmosttwistedoutofmybelly。However,thedaywasverysereneandbright,andthecaptain,whowasinhighspirits,affirmedhehadneverpassedapleasanteratsea。

  Thewindcontinuedsobriskthatweranupwardofsixknotsanhourthewholenight。

  Monday。——Inthemorningourcaptainconcludedthathewasgotintolat。40degrees,andwasverylittleshortoftheBurlings,astheyarecalledinthecharts。Wecameupwiththematfiveintheafternoon,beingthefirstlandwehaddistinctlyseensinceweleftDevonshire。Theyconsistofabundanceoflittlerockyislands,alittledistantfromtheshore,threeofthemonlyshowingthemselvesabovethewater。

  HerethePortuguesemaintainakindofgarrison,ifwemayallowitthatname。Itconsistsofmalefactors,whoarebanishedhitherforaterm,fordiverssmalloffenses——apolicywhichtheymayhavecopiedfromtheEgyptians,aswemayreadinDiodorusSiculus。Thatwisepeople,topreventthecorruptionofgoodmannersbyevilcommunication,builtatownontheRedSea,whithertheytransportedagreatnumberoftheircriminals,havingfirstsetanindeliblemarkonthem,topreventtheirreturningandmixingwiththesoberpartoftheircitizens。

  TheserockslieaboutfifteenleaguesnorthwestofCapeRoxent,or,asitiscommonlycalled,theRockofLisbon,whichwepassedearlythenextmorning。Thewind,indeed,wouldhavecarriedusthithersooner;butthecaptainwasnotinahurry,ashewastolosenothingbyhisdelay。

  Tuesday。——Thisisaveryhighmountain,situatedonthenorthernsideofthemouthoftheriverTajo,which,risingaboutMadrid,inSpain,andsoonbecomingnavigableforsmallcraft,emptiesitself,afteralongcourse,intothesea,aboutfourleaguesbelowLisbon。

  Onthesummitoftherockstandsahermitage,whichisnowinthepossessionofanEnglishman,whowasformerlymasterofavesseltradingtoLisbon;and,havingchangedhisreligionandhismanners,thelatterofwhich,atleast,werenoneofthebest,betookhimselftothisplace,inordertodopenanceforhissins。Heisnowveryold,andhathinhabitedthishermitageforagreatnumberofyears,duringwhichhehathreceivedsomecountenancefromtheroyalfamily,andparticularlyfromthepresentqueendowager,whosepietyrefusesnotroubleorexpensebywhichshemaymakeaproselyte,beingusedtosaythatthesavingonesoulwouldrepayalltheendeavorsofherlife。Herewewaitedforthetide,andhadthepleasureofsurveyingthefaceofthecountry,thesoilofwhich,atthisseason,exactlyresemblesanoldbrick-kiln,orafieldwherethegreenswardisparedupandseta-burning,orratherasmoking,inlittleheapstomanuretheland。Thissightwill,perhaps,ofallothers,makeanEnglishmanproudof,andpleasedwith,hisowncountry,whichinverdureexcels,Ibelieve,everyothercountry。Anotherdeficiencyhereisthewantoflargetrees,nothingaboveashrubbeingheretobediscoveredinthecircumferenceofmanymiles。

  Atthisplacewetookapilotonboard,who,beingthefirstPortuguesewespoketo,gaveusaninstanceofthatreligiousobservancewhichispaidbyallnationstotheirlaws;for,whereasitishereacapitaloffensetoassistanypersoningoingonshorefromaforeignvesselbeforeithathbeenexamined,andeverypersoninitviewedbythemagistratesofhealth,astheyarecalled,thisworthypilot,foraverysmallreward,rowedthePortuguesepriesttoshoreatthisplace,beyondwhichhedidnotdaretoadvance,andinventuringwhitherhehadgivensufficienttestimonyofloveforhisnativecountry。

  WedidnotentertheTajotillnoon,when,afterpassingseveraloldcastlesandotherbuildingswhichhadgreatlytheaspectofruins,wecametothecastleofBellisle,wherewehadafullprospectofLisbon,andwere,indeed,withinthreemilesofit。

  Hereweweresalutedwithagun,whichwasasignaltopassnofarthertillwehadcompliedwithcertainceremonieswhichthelawsofthiscountryrequiretobeobservedbyallshipswhicharriveinthisport。Wewereobligedthentocastanchor,andexpectthearrivaloftheofficersofthecustoms,withoutwhosepassportnoshipmustproceedfartherthanthisplace。

  Herelikewisewereceivedavisitfromoneofthosemagistratesofhealthbeforementioned。Herefusedtocomeonboardtheshiptilleverypersoninherhadbeendrawnupondeckandpersonallyviewedbyhim。Thisoccasionedsomedelayonmypart,asitwasnottheworkofaminutetoliftmefromthecabintothedeck。

  Thecaptainthoughtmyparticularcasemighthavebeenexcusedfromthisceremony,andthatitwouldbeabundantlysufficientifthemagistrate,whowasobligedafterwardstovisitthecabin,surveyedmethere。Butthisdidnotsatisfythemagistrate’sstrictregardtohisduty。Whenhewastoldofmylameness,hecalledout,withavoiceofauthority,\"Lethimbebroughtup,\"

  andhisorderswerepresentlycompliedwith。Hewas,indeed,apersonofgreatdignity,aswellasofthemostexactfidelityinthedischargeofhistrust。BothwhicharethemoreadmirableashissalaryislessthanthirtypoundsEnglishperannum。

  Beforeashiphathbeenvisitedbyoneofthosemagistratesnopersoncanlawfullygoonboardher,norcananyonboarddepartfromher。ThisIsawexemplifiedinaremarkableinstance。TheyoungladwhomIhavementionedasoneofourpassengerswasheremetbyhisfather,who,onthefirstnewsofthecaptain’sarrival,camefromLisbontoBellisleinaboat,beingeagertoembraceasonwhomhehadnotseenformanyyears。Butwhenhecamealongsideourshipneitherdidthefatherdareascendnorthesondescend,asthemagistrateofhealthhadnotyetbeenonboard。Someofourreaderswill,perhaps,admirethegreatcautionofthispolicy,sonicelycalculatedforthepreservationofthiscountryfromallpestilentialdistempers。Otherswillasprobablyregarditastooexactandformaltobeconstantlypersistedin,inseasonsoftheutmostsafety,aswellasintimesofdanger。Iwillnotdecideeitherway,butwillcontentmyselfwithobservingthatIneveryetsaworheardofaplacewhereatravelerhadsomuchtroublegivenhimathislandingashere。Theonlyuseofwhich,asallsuchmattersbeginandendinformonly,istoputitintothepoweroflowandmeanfellowstobeeitherrudelyofficiousorgrosslycorrupt,astheyshallseeoccasiontopreferthegratificationoftheirprideoroftheiravarice。

  Ofthiskind,likewise,isthatpowerwhichislodgedwithotherofficershere,oftakingawayeverygrainofsnuffandeveryleafoftobaccobroughthitherfromothercountries,thoughonlyforthetemporaryuseofthepersonduringhisresidencehere。Thisisexecutedwithgreatinsolence,and,asitisinthehandsofthedregsofthepeople,veryscandalously;for,underpretenseofsearchingfortobaccoandsnuff,theyaresuretostealwhatevertheycanfind,insomuchthatwhentheycameonboardoursailorsaddressedusintheCovent-gardenlanguage:\"Pray,gentlemenandladies,takecareofyourswordsandwatches。\"

  Indeed,IneveryetsawanythingequaltothecontemptandhatredwhichourhonesttarseverymomentexpressedforthesePortugueseofficers。

  AtBellisleliesburiedCatharineofArragon,widowofprinceArthur,eldestsonofourHenryVII,afterwardsmarriedto,anddivorcedfromHenryVIII。ClosebythechurchwhereherremainsaredepositedisalargeconventofGeronymites,oneofthemostbeautifulpilesofbuildinginallPortugal。

  Intheevening,attwelve,ourship,havingreceivedpreviousvisitsfromallthenecessaryparties,tooktheadvantageofthetide,andhavingsaileduptoLisboncastanchorthere,inacalmandmoonshinynight,whichmadethepassageincrediblypleasanttothewomen,whoremainedthreehoursenjoyingit,whilstIwaslefttothecoolertransportsofenjoyingtheirpleasuresatsecond-hand;andyet,coolerastheymaybe,whoeveristotallyignorantofsuchsensationis,atthesametime,voidofallideasoffriendship。

  Wednesday。——Lisbon,beforewhichwenowlayatanchor,issaidtobebuiltonthesamenumberofhillswitholdRome;butthesedonotallappeartothewater;onthecontrary,oneseesfromthenceonevasthighhillandrock,withbuildingsarisingaboveoneanother,andthatinsosteepandalmostperpendicularamanner,thattheyallseemtohavebutonefoundation。

  Asthehouses,convents,churches,&c。,arelarge,andallbuiltwithwhitestone,theylookverybeautifulatadistance;butasyouapproachnearer,andfindthemtowanteverykindofornament,allideaofbeautyvanishesatonce。WhileIwassurveyingtheprospectofthiscity,whichbearssolittleresemblancetoanyotherthatIhaveeverseen,areflectionoccurredtomethat,ifamanwassuddenlytoberemovedfromPalmyrahither,andshouldtakeaviewofnoothercity,inhowgloriousalightwouldtheancientarchitectureappeartohim!

  andwhatdesolationanddestructionofartsandscienceswouldheconcludehadhappenedbetweentheseveralerasofthesecities!

  Ihadnowwaitedfullthreehoursupondeckforthereturnofmyman,whomIhadsenttobespeakagooddinner(athingwhichhadbeenlongunknowntome)onshore,andthentobringaLisbonchaisewithhimtotheseashore;butitseemstheimpertinenceoftheprovidorewasnotyetbroughttoaconclusion。Atthreeo’clock,whenIwasfromemptiness,ratherfaintthanhungry,mymanreturned,andtoldmetherewasanewlawlatelymadethatnopassengershouldsethisfootonshorewithoutaspecialorderfromtheprovidore,andthathehimselfwouldhavebeensenttoprisonfordisobeyingit,hadhenotbeenprotectedastheservantofthecaptain。Heinformedmelikewisethatthecaptainhadbeenveryindustrioustogetthisorder,butthatitwasthentheprovidore’shourofsleep,atimewhennoman,exceptthekinghimself,durstdisturbhim。

  Toavoidprolixity,thoughinapartofmynarrativewhichmaybemoreagreeabletomyreaderthanitwastome,theprovidore,havingatlastfinishedhisnap,dispatchedthisabsurdmatterofform,andgavemeleavetocome,orrathertobecarried,onshore。

  Whatitwasthatgavethefirsthintofthisstrangelawisnoteasytoguess。Possibly,intheinfancyoftheirdefection,andbeforetheirgovernmentcouldbewellestablished,theywerewillingtoguardagainstthebarepossibilityofsurprise,ofthesuccessofwhichbarepossibilitytheTrojanhorsewillremainforeveronrecord,asagreatandmemorableexample。NowthePortuguesehavenowallstosecurethem,andavesseloftwoorthreehundredtonswillcontainamuchlargerbodyoftroopsthancouldbeconcealedinthatfamousmachine,thoughVirgiltellsus(somewhathyperbolically,Ibelieve)thatitwasasbigasamountain。

  AboutsevenintheeveningIgotintoachaiseonshore,andwasdriventhroughthenastiestcityintheworld,thoughatthesametimeoneofthemostpopulous,toakindofcoffee-house,whichisverypleasantlysituatedonthebrowofahill,aboutamilefromthecity,andhathaveryfineprospectoftheriverTajofromLisbontothesea。Hereweregaledourselveswithagoodsupper,forwhichwewereaswellchargedasifthebillhadbeenmadeontheBath-road,betweenNewburyandLondon。

  Andnowwecouldjoyfullysay,EgressioptataTroespotiunturarena。

  Therefore,inthewordsofHorace,——hieFinischartaequeviaeque。

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