AnothermodeofinvestmenthighlyspokenofisthatofbuyinglandandlayingitdowninEnglishgrass，thusmakingapermanentestateofit。
ButIfearthiswillnotdoforme，bothbecauseitrequiresalargeexperienceofthingsingeneral，which，asyouwellknow，Idonotpossess，andbecauseIshouldwantagreatercapitalthanwouldberequiredtostartarun。Moremoneyissunk，andthereturnsdonotappeartobesospeedy。Icannotgiveyouevenaroughestimateoftheexpensesofsuchaplan。IwillonlysaythatIhaveseengentlemenwhoaredoingit，andwhoareconfidentofsuccess，andthesemenbearthereputationofbeingshrewdandbusiness-like。Icannotdoubt，therefore，thatitisbothagoodandsafeinvestmentofmoney。Mycrudenotionconcerningitis，thatitismorepermanentandlessremunerative。InthisImaybemistaken，butIamcertainitisathingwhichmightveryeasilybemadeamessofbyaninexperiencedperson;
whilstmanymen，whohaveknownnomoreaboutsheepthanIdo，havemadeordinarysheepfarmingpayexceedinglywell。Imayperhapsaswellsay，thatlandlaiddowninEnglishgrassissupposedtocarryaboutfiveorsixsheeptotheacre;somesaymoreandsomeless。Doubtless，somewhatwilldependuponthenatureofthesoil，andasyettheexperimentcanhardlybesaidtohavebeenfullytried。AsforfarmingaswedoinEngland，itisuniversallymaintainedthatitdoesnotpay;thereseemstobenodiscrepancyofopinionaboutthis。Manytryit，butmostmengiveitup。Itappearsasifitwereonlybona-fidelabouringmenwhocanmakeitanswer。ThenumberoffarmsintheneighbourhoodofChristChurchseemsatfirsttocontradictthisstatement;butIbelievethefacttobe，thatthesefarmsarechieflyinthehandsoflabouringmen，whohadmadealittlemoney，boughtland，andcultivateditthemselves。
Thesemencandowell，butthosewhohavetobuylabourcannotmakeitanswer。Thedifficultyliesinthehighrateofwages。
February13。——SincemylastIhavebeenpayingavisitofafewdaysatKaiapoi，andmadeashorttripuptotheHarewoodForest，neartowhichthetownshipofOxfordissituated。WhyitshouldbecalledOxfordIdonotknow。
AfterleavingRangiora，whichisabout8milesfromKaiapoi，IfollowedtheHarewoodroadtillitbecameameretrack，thenafootpath，andthendwindledawaytonothingatall。Isoonfoundmyselfinthemiddleoftheplains，withnothingbutbrowntussocksofgrassbeforemeandbehindme，andoneitherside。Thedaywasratherdark，andthemountainswereobliteratedbyahaze。\"Ohthepleasureoftheplains，\"
Ithoughttomyself;but，uponmyword，IthinkoldHandelwouldfindbutlittlepleasureinthese。Theyare，inclearweather，monotonousanddazzling;incloudyweathermonotonousandsad;andtheyhavelittletorecommendthembutthefacilitytheyaffordfortravelling，andthegrasswhichgrowsuponthem。This，atleast，wastheimpressionI
derivedfrommyfirstacquaintancewiththem，asIfoundmyselfsteeringfortheextremityofsomelowdownsaboutsixmilesdistant。Ithoughtthesedownswouldnevergetnearer。AtlengthIsawatent-likeobject，dottingitselfupontheplain，witheightblackmiceasitwereinfrontofit。Thisturnedouttobeadray，loadedwithwool，comingdownfromthecountry。ItwasthefirstsymptomofsheepthatIhadcomeupon，for，tomysurprise，Isawnosheepupontheplains，neitherdidIseeanyinthewholeofmylittleexcursion。Iamtoldthatthisdisappointsmostnew-comers。TheyaretoldthatsheepfarmingisthegreatbusinessofCanterbury，buttheyseenosheep;thereasonofthisis，partlybecausetherunsarenotyetaquarterstocked，andpartlybecausethesheepareinmobs，and，unlessonecomesacrossthewholemob，oneseesnoneofthem。Theplains，too，aresovast，thatataveryshortdistancefromthetrack，sheepwillnotbeseen。WhenIcameuptothedray，Ifoundmyselfonatrack，reachedthefootofthedowns，andcrossedthelittleRiverCust。Alittleriver，brookorstream，isalwayscalledacreek;nothingbutthegreatriversarecalledrivers。Nowclumpsofflax，andstuntedgrovesofTipalmsandothertrees，begantobreakthemonotonyofthescene。Thenthetrackascendedthedownsontheothersideofthestream，andaffordedmeafineviewofthevalleyoftheCust，clearedandburntbyarecentfire，whichextendedformilesandmiles，purplingthefaceofthecountry，uptothehorizon。Richflaxandgrassmadethevalleylookpromising，butonthehillthegroundwasstonyandbarren，andshabbilyclothedwithpatchesofdryandbrowngrass，surroundedbyasquarefootorsoofhardground;betweenthetussocks，however，therewasafrequentthoughscantyundergrowthwhichmightfurnishsupportforsheep，thoughitlookedburntup。
Imayaswellherecorrectanerror，whichIhadbeenunder，andwhichyoumay，perhaps，havesharedwithme——nativegrasscannotbemown。
Afterproceedingsomefewmilesfurther，Icametoastation，where，thoughaperfectstranger，andatfirst（atsomelittledistance）
mistakenforaMaori，Iwasmostkindlytreated，andspentaveryagreeableevening。Thepeoplehereareveryhospitable;andIhavereceivedkindnessalreadyuponseveraloccasions，frompersonsuponwhomIhadnosortofclaim。
NextdayIwenttoOxford，whichliesatthefootofthefirstranges，andissupposedtobeapromisingplace。Here，forthefirsttime，I
sawthebush;itwasverybeautiful;numerouscreepers，andaluxuriantundergrowthamongthetrees，gavetheforestawhollyun-Europeanaspect，andrealised，insomedegree，one’sideaoftropicalvegetation。
Itwasfullofbirdsthatsangloudlyandsweetly。Thetreeshereareallevergreens，andarenotconsideredverygoodfortimber。Iamtoldthattheyhavemostlyatwistinthem，andareinotherrespectsnotfirstrate。
***
March24。——AtlastIhavebeenreallyintheextremebackcountry，andpositively，rightuptoaglacier。
AssoonasIsawthemountains，Ilongedtogetontheothersideofthem，andnowmywishhasbeengratified。
IleftChristChurchincompanywithasheepfarmer，whoownsaruninthebackcountry，behindtheMalvernHills，andwhokindlyofferedtotakemewithhimonashortexpeditionhewasgoingtomakeintotheremotervalleysoftheisland，inhopesoffindingsomeconsiderablepieceofcountrywhichhadnotyetbeenappliedfor。
WestartedFebruary28th，andhadratheranunpleasantrideoftwenty-
fivemiles，againstaveryhighN。W。wind。Thiswindisveryhot，veryparching，andveryviolent;itblewthedustintooureyessothatwecouldhardlykeepthemopen。Towardsevening，however，itsomewhatmoderated，asitgenerallydoes。Therewasnothingofinterestonthetrack，saveadryriver-bed，throughwhichtheWaimakiririonceflowed，butwhichithaslongquitted。Therestofourjourneywasentirelyovertheplains，whichdonotbecomelessmonotonousuponalongeracquaintance;themountains，however，drewslowlynearer，andbyeveningwerereallyratherbeautiful。NextdayweenteredthevalleyoftheRiverSelwyn，orWaikitty，asitisgenerallycalled，andsoonfoundourselvessurroundedbythelowvolcanicmountains，whichbearthenameoftheMalvernHills。TheyareveryliketheBanksPeninsula。Wedinedatastationbelongingtoasonofthebishop’s，andafterdinnermadefurtherprogressintotheinterior。Ihaveverylittletorecord，savethatIwasdisappointedatnotfindingthewildplantsmorenumerousandmorebeautiful;theyarefew，anddecidedlyugly。Thereisonebeastofaplanttheycallspear-grass，orspaniard，whichIwilltellyoumoreaboutatanothertime。Youwouldhavelaughedtohaveseenmeonthatday;itwasthefirstonwhichIhadtheslightestoccasionforanyhorsemanship。YouknowhowbadahorsemanIam，andcanimaginethatI
letmycompaniongofirstinallthelittleswampyplacesandsmallcreekswhichwecameacross。Thesewerenumerous，andasDoctoralwaysjumpedthem，withwhatappearedtomeajumpaboutthreetimesgreaterthanwasnecessary，IassureyouIheartilywishedthemsomewhereelse。
However，Ididmybesttoconcealmydeficiency，andbeforenighthadbecomecomparativelyexpertwithouthavingbetrayedmyselftomycompanion。Idaresayheknewwhatwasgoingon，wellenough，butwastoogoodandkindtonoticeit。
Atnight，andbyalovelyclear，coldmoonlight，wearrivedatourdestination，heartilygladtohearthedogsbarkingandtoknowthatwewereatourjourney’send。Herewewerebonafidebeyondthepaleofcivilisation;noboardedfloors，nochairs，noranysimilarluxuries;
everythingwasoftheverysimplestdescription。Fourmeninhabitedthehut，andtheirlifeappearsakindofmixtureofthatofadogandthatofanemperor，withaconsiderablepredominanceofthelatter。Theyhavenocook，andtakeitturnandturntocookandwashup，twooneweek，andtwothenext。Theyhaveagoodgarden，andgaveusacapitalfeedofpotatoesandpeas，bothfriedtogether，anexcellentcombination。Theirculinaryapparatusandplates，cups，knives，andforks，areverylimitedinnumber。Themenareallgentlemenandsonsofgentlemen，andoneofthemisaCambridgeman，whotookahighsecond-classayearortwobeforemytime。Everynowandthenheleaveshisup-countryavocations，andbecomesagreatgunatthecollegeinChristChurch，examiningtheboys;hethenreturnstohisshepherding，cooking，bullock-driving，etc。etc。，asthecasemaybe。Iaminformedthatthehavingfaithfullylearnedtheingenuousarts，hassofarmollifiedhismoralsthatheisanexceedinglyhumaneandjudiciousbullock-driver。Heregardedmeasasomewhatdespicablenew-comer（atleastsoIimagined），andwhennextmorningIaskedwhereIshouldwash，hegaveratheraFrenchshrugoftheshoulders，andsaid，\"Thelake。\"I
felttherebuketobewellmerited，andthatwiththelakeinfrontofthehouse，Ishouldhavebeenatnolossforthemeansofperformingmyablutions。SoIretiredabashedandcleansedmyselftherein。UnderhisbedIfoundTennyson’sIdyllsoftheKing。Soyouwillseethatevenintheseout-of-the-worldplacespeopledocarealittleforsomethingbesidessheep。IwastoldanamusingstoryofanOxfordmanshepherdingdowninOtago。Someonecameintohishut，and，takingupabook，founditinastrangetongue，andenquiredwhatitwas。TheOxonian（whowasbakingatthetime）answeredthatitwasMachiavelliandiscoursesuponthefirstdecadeofLivy。Thewonder-strickenvisitorlaiddownthebookandtookupanother，whichwas，atanyrate，writteninEnglish。
ThishefoundtobeBishopButler’sAnalogy。Puttingitdownspeedilyassomethingnotinhisline，helaidhandsuponathird。ThisprovedtobePatrumApostolicorumOpera，onwhichhesaddledhishorseandwentrightaway，leavingtheOxoniantohisbaking。Thismanmustcertainlybeconsideredarareexception。NewZealandseemsfarbetteradaptedtodevelopandmaintaininhealththephysicalthantheintellectualnature。Thefactis，peopleherearebusymakingmoney;thatistheinducementwhichledthemtocomeinthefirstinstance，andtheyshowtheirsensebydevotingtheirenergiestothework。Yet，afterall，itmaybequestionedwhethertheintellectisnotaswellschooledhereasathome，thoughinaverydifferentmanner。Menareasshrewdandsensible，asalivetothehumorous，andashard-headed。Moreover，thereismuchnonsenseintheoldcountryfromwhichpeopleherearefree。
Thereislittleconventionalism，littleformality，andmuchliberalityofsentiment;verylittlesectarianism，and，asageneralrule，ahealthy，sensibletoneinconversation，whichIlikemuch。ButitdoesnotdotospeakaboutJohnSebastianBach’sFugues，orpre-Raphaelitepictures。
Toreturn，however，tothematterinhand。Ofcourseeveryoneatstationsliketheonewevisitedwasheshisownclothes，andofcoursetheydonotusesheets。Sheetswouldrequirefartoomuchwashing。Redblanketsareusual;whiteshowfly-blows。Theblue-bottlefliesblowamongblanketsthatareleftlyinguntidilyabout，butifthesamebeneatlyfoldedupandpresentnocrumpledcreases，theflieswillleavethemalone。Itisstrange，too，that，thoughflieswillblowadeadsheepalmostimmediately，theywillnottouchonethatislivingandhealthy。Couplingtheirgoodnatureinthisrespectwiththeloveofneatnessandhatredofuntidinesswhichtheyexhibit，IinclinetothinkthemdecidedlyinadvanceofourEnglishbluebottles，whichtheyperfectlyresembleineveryotherrespect。TheEnglishhouse-flysoondrivesthemaway，and，afterthefirstyearortwo，astationisseldommuchtroubledwiththem：soatleastIamtoldbymany。Fly-blownblanketsareallverywell，providedtheyhavebeenquitedryeversincetheywereblown：theeggsthencometonothing;butiftheblanketsbedamp，maggotsmaketheirappearanceinafewhours，andtheverysuspicionofthemisattendedwithanunpleasantcreepycrawlysensation。TheblanketsinwhichIsleptatthestationwhichIhavebeendescribingwereperfectlyinnocuous。
OnthemorningafterIarrived，forthefirsttimeinmylifeIsawasheepkilled。Itisratherunpleasant，butIsupposeIshallgetasindifferenttoitasother——peoplearebyandby。Toshowyouthattheknivesoftheestablishmentarenumbered，Imaymentionthatthesameknifekilledthesheepandcarvedthemuttonwehadfordinner。Afteranearlydinner，mypatronandmyselfstartedonourjourney，andaftertravellingforsomefewhoursoverratheraroughcountry，thoughonewhichappearedtometobebeautifulindeed，wecameuponavastriver-
bed，withalittleriverwindingaboutit。ThisistheHarpur，atributaryoftheRakaia，andthenorthernbranchofthatriver。Wewerenowgoingtofollowittoitssource，inthehopesofbeingledbyittosomesaddleoverwhichwemightcross，andcomeuponentirelynewground。Theriveritselfwasverylow，butthehugeandwastefulriver-
bedshowedthatthereweretimeswhenitsappearancemustbeentirelydifferent。Wegotontotheriver-bed，and，followingitupforalittleway，soonfoundourselvesinaclosevalleybetweentwoveryloftyranges，whichwereplentifullywoodedwithblackbirchdowntotheirbase。Therewereafewscrubby，stonyflatscoveredwithIrishmanandspear-grass（IrishmanistheunpleasantthornyshrubwhichIsawgoingoverthehillfromLytteltontoChristChurch）oneithersidethestream;theyhadbeenentirelylefttonature，andshowedmethedifferencebetweencountrywhichhadbeenburntandthatwhichisinitsnaturalcondition。Thisdifferenceisverygreat。Thefiredriesupmanyswamps——atleastmanydisappearaftercountryhasbeenonceortwiceburnt;thewatermovesmorefreely，unimpededbythetangledanddecayingvegetationwhichaccumulatesrounditduringthelapseofcenturies，andthesungetsfreeraccesstotheground。Cattledomuchalso：theyformtracksthroughswamps，andtrampledowntheearth，makingitharderandfirmer。Sheepdomuch：theyconveytheseedsofthebestgrassandtreadthemintotheground。Thedifferencebetweencountrythathasbeenfeduponbyanylivestock，evenforasingleyear，andthatwhichhasneveryetbeenstockedisverynoticeable。Ifcountryisbeingburntforthesecondorthirdtime，thefirecanbecrossedwithoutanydifficulty;ofcourseitmustbequicklytraversed，thoughindeed，onthinlygrassedland，youmaytakeitalmostascoollyasyouplease。Ononeoftheseflats，justontheedgeofthebush，andattheveryfootofthemountain，welitafireassoonasitwasdusk，and，tetheringourhorses，boiledourteaandsupped。Thenightwaswarmandquiet，thesilenceonlyinterruptedbytheoccasionalsharpcryofawood-hen，andtherushingoftheriver，whilsttheruddyglowofthefire，thesombreforest，andtheimmediateforegroundofoursaddlesandblankets，formedapicturetomeentirelynewandratherimpressive。
ProbablyafteranotheryearortwoIshallregardcampingoutasthenuisancewhichitreallyis，insteadofwritingaboutsombreforestsandsoforth。Well，well，thatnightIthoughtitveryfine，andsoingoodtruthitwas。
Oursaddleswereourpillowsandwestrappedourblanketsroundusbysaddle-straps，andmycompanion（Ibelieve）sleptverysoundly;formypartthescenewasaltogethertoonoveltoallowmetosleep。IkeptlookingupandseeingthestarsjustasIwasgoingofftosleep，andthatwokemeagain;IhadalsounderestimatedtheamountofblanketswhichIshouldrequire，anditwasnotlongbeforetheromanceofthesituationworeoff，andaratherchillyrealityoccupieditsplace;
moreover，theflatwasstony，andIwasnotknowingenoughtohaveselectedaspotwhichgaveahollowforthehip-bone。Mygreatobject，however，wastoconcealmyconditionfrommycompanion，forneverwasafreshmanatCambridgemoreanxioustobemistakenforathird-yearmanthanIwasanxioustobecomeanoldchum，asthecolonialdialectcallsasettler——therebyprovingmynewchumshipmostsatisfactorily。Earlynextmorningthebirdsbegantosingbeautifully，andthedaybeingthusheralded，Igotup，litthefire，andsetthepannikinstoboil：wethenhadbreakfast，andbrokecamp。Thescenerysoonbecamemostglorious，for，turningroundacorneroftheriver，wesawaveryfinemountainrightinfrontofus。Icouldatonceseethattherewasanevenearthetopofit，andwasallexcitement。Wewereveryanxioustoknowifthiswasthebackbonerangeoftheisland，andwerehopefulthatifitwaswemightfindsomepasstotheotherside。Therangesoneitherhandwere，asIsaidbefore，coveredwithbush，andthese，withtheruggedAlpsinfrontofus，madeamagnificentview。Wewenton，andsoontherecameoutamuchgrandermountain——agloriousglacieredfellow——andthencamemore，andthemountainsclosedin，andtheriverdwindledandbeganleapingfromstonetostone，andwewereshortlyinsceneryofthetrueAlpinenature——very，verygrand。Itwanted，however，achaletortwo，orsomesignofhumanhandiworkinthefore-
ground;asitwas，thescenewastoosavage。
Allthetimewekeptlookingforgold，notinascientificmanner，butwehadakindofideathatifwelookedintheshinglybedsofthenumeroustributariestotheHarpur，weshouldsurelyfindeithergoldorcopperorsomethinggood。Soateveryshingle-bedwecameto（andeverylittletributaryhadagreatshingle-bed）welaydownandgazedintothepebbleswithalloureyes。Wefoundplentyofstoneswithyellowspecksinthem，butnoneofthatrichgoodlyhuewhichmakesamancertainthatwhathehasfoundisgold。Wedidnotwashanyofthegravel，forwehadnotindish，neitherdidweknowhowtowash。Thespeckswefoundweremica;butIbelieveIamrightinsayingthattherearelargequantitiesofchromateofironintherangesthatdescendupontheriver。Webroughtdownseveralspecimens，someofwhichwebelievedtobecopper，butwhichdidnotturnouttobeso。Theprincipalrockswereahard，grey，grittysandstone，interwovenwiththinstreaksofquartz。Wesawnomassesofquartz;whatwefoundwasintermixedwithsandstone，andwasalwaysinsmallpieces。Thesandstone，inlikemanner，wasalmostalwaysintermingledwithquartz。Besidesthissandstonetherewasagooddealofpinkandblueslate，thepinkchieflyatthetopoftherange，showingabeautifulcolourfromtheriver-bed。
Inadditiontothis，therewereabundanceofrocks，ofeverygradationbetweensandstoneandslate——somesandstonealmostslate，someslatealmostsandstone。Therewasalsoagooddealofpudding-stone;butthebulkoftherockwasthisveryhard，veryflintysandstone。YouknowI
amnogeologist。Iwillundertake，however，tosaypositivelythatwedidnotseeoneatomofgranite;allthemountainsthatIhaveyetseenareeithervolcanicorcomposedofthissandstoneandslate。
Whenwehadreachednearlythebaseofthemountains，weleftourhorses，forwecouldusethemnolonger，and，crossingandrecrossingthestream，atlengthturnedupthroughthebushtoourright。Thisbush，thoughverybeautifultolookat，iscomposedofnothingbutthepoorestblackbirch。Wehadnodifficultyingettingthroughit，forithadnoundergrowth，asthebushesonthefrontrangeshave。Ishouldsupposewewereherebetweenthreeandfourthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea;andyoumayimaginethatatthataltitude，inavalleysurroundedbysnowyranges，vegetationwouldnotbeveryluxuriant。
Therewassufficientwood，however，toharbourabundanceofparroquets——
brilliantlittleglossygreenfellows，thatshotpastyounowandagainwithaglisteninthesun，andweregone。Therewasakindofduskybrownish-greenparrot，too，whichthescientificcallaNestor。WhattheymeanbythisnameIknownot。Totheun-scientificitisaratherdirty-lookingbird，withsomebrightredfeathersunderitswings。Itisverytame，sitsstilltobepetted，andscreamslikearealparrot。
Twoattendedusonourascentafterleavingthebush。Wethrewmanystonesatthem，anditwasnottheirfaultthattheyescapedunhurt。
Immediatelyonemergingfromthebushwefoundallvegetationatanend。
Wewereonthemoraineofanoldglacier，andsawnothinginfrontofusbutfrightfulprecipicesandglaciers。Therewasasaddle，however，notaboveacoupleofthousandfeethigher。Thissaddlewascoveredwithsnow，and，aswehadneitherprovisionsnorblankets，wewereobligedtogiveupgoingtothetopofit。Wereturnedwithlessreluctance，fromthealmostabsolutecertainty，firstly，thatwewerenotuponthemainrange;secondly，thatthissaddlewouldonlyleadtotheWaimakiriri，thenextriverabovetheRakaia。Ofthesetwopointsmycompanionwassoconvinced，thatwedidnotgreatlyregretleavingitunexplored。Ourobjectwascommercial，andnotscientific;ourmotivewaspounds，shillings，andpence：andwherethisfailedus，welostallexcitementandcuriosity。Ifearthatwewereyetweakenoughtohavealittlehankeringaftertheviewfromthetopofthepass，butwetreatedsuchpuerilitywiththecontemptthatitdeserved，andsatdowntorestourselvesatthefootofasmallglacier。Wethendescended，andreachedthehorsesatnightfall，fullysatisfiedthat，beyondtheflatbesidetheriverbedoftheHarpur，therewasnocountrytobehadinthatdirection。WealsofeltcertainthattherewasnopasstothewestcoastupthatbranchoftheRakaia，butthatthesaddleattheheadofitwouldonlyleadtotheWaimakiriri，andrevealthetruebackbonerangefarthertothewest。Themountainsamongwhichwehadbeenclimbingwereonlyoffsetsfromthemainchain。
ThismightbeshownalsobyaconsiderationofthevolumeofwaterwhichsuppliesthemainstreamsoftheRakaiaandtheWaimakiriri，andcomparingitwiththeinsignificantamountwhichfindsitswaydowntheHarpur。Theglaciersthatfeedthetwolargerstreamsmustbeveryextensive，thusshowingthatthehighestrangeliesstillfarthertothenorthwardandwestward。TheWaimakiririisthenextrivertothenorthwardoftheRakaia。
Thatnightwecampedasbefore，onlyIwasmoreknowing，andsleptwithmyclotheson，andfoundahollowformyhip-bone，bywhichcontrivancesIsleptlikeatop。Nextmorning，atearlydawn，thescenewasmostmagnificent。Themountainswerepaleasghosts，andalmostsickeningfromtheirdeath-likewhiteness。Wegazedatthemforamomentortwo，andthenturnedtomakingafire，whichinthecoldfrostymorningwasnotunpleasant。Shortlyafterwardswewereagainenrouteforthestationfromwhichwehadstarted。Weburnttheflatsaswerodedown，andmadeasmokewhichwasnoticedbetweenfiftyandsixtymilesoff。I
haveseennograndersightthanthefireuponacountrywhichhasneverbeforebeenburnt，andonwhichthereisalargequantityofIrishman。
Thesunsoonlosesallbrightness，andlooksasthoughseenthroughsmokedglass。Thevolumesofsmokearesomethingthatmustbeseentobeappreciated。Theflamesroar，andthegrasscrackles，andeverynowandthenagloriousluridflaremarkstheignitionofanIrishman;hisdrythornsblazefiercelyforaminuteorso，andthenthefireleaveshim，charredandblackenedforever。Ayearortwohence，astiffnor’-
westerwillblowhimover，andhewillliethereandrot，andfattenthesurroundinggrass;often，however，heshootsoutagainfromtheroots，andthenheisaconsiderablenuisance。OntheplainsIrishmanisbutasmallshrub，thathardlyriseshigherthanthetussocks;itisonlyinthebackcountrythatitattainsanyconsiderablesize：thereitstrunkisoftenasthickasaman’sbody。
Wegotbackaboutanhouraftersundown，justasheavyrainwascomingon，andwereverygladnottobeagaincampingout，foritrainedfuriouslyandincessantlythewholenightlong。Nextdaywereturnedtothelowerstationbelongingtomycompanion，whichwasasrepletewithEuropeancomfortsastheupperwasdevoidofthem;yet，formypart，I
couldliveverycomfortablyateither。
CHAPTERV
AscentoftheWaimakiriri——CrossingtheRiver——Gorge——AscentoftheRangitata——ViewofM’KenziePlains——M’Kenzie——MountCook——AscentoftheHurunui——ColleadingtoWestCoast。
Sincemylast，Ihavemadeanotherexpeditionintothebackcountry，inthehopeoffindingsomelittlerunwhichhadbeenoverlooked。Ihavebeenunsuccessful，asindeedIwaslikelytobe：stillIhadapleasantexcursion，andhaveseenmanymoreglaciers，andmuchfineronesthanonmylasttrip。ThistimeIwentuptheWaimakiriribymyself，andfoundthatwehadbeenfullyrightinoursuppositionthattheRakaiasaddleswouldonlyleadontothatriver。ThemainfeatureswerepreciselysimilartothoseontheRakaia，savethatthevalleywasbroader，theriverlonger，andthemountainsverymuchhigher。IhadtocrosstheWaimakiririjustafterafresh，whenthewaterwasthick，andIassureyouIdidnotlikeit。Icrosseditfirstontheplains，whereitflowsbetweentwoveryhighterraces，whicharefromhalfamiletoamileapart，andofwhichthemostnorthernmustbe，Ishouldthink，300feethigh。Itwassosteep，andsocoveredwithstonestowardsthebase，andsobrokenwithstripsofshinglethathadfallenoverthegrass，thatittookmeafullhourtoleadmyhorsefromthetoptothebottom。Idaresaymyclumsinesswaspartlyinfault;butcertainlyinSwitzerlandI
neversawahorsetakendownsonastyaplace：andsogladwasItobeatthebottomofit，thatIthoughtcomparativelylittleoftheriver，whichwascloseathandwaitingtobecrossed。FromthetopoftheterraceIhadsurveyeditcarefullyasitlaybeneath，wanderingcapriciouslyinthewastefulshingle-bed，andlookinglikeamazeoftangledsilverribbons。Icalculatedhowtocutoffonestreamafteranother，butIcouldnotshirkthemainstream，dodgeithowImight;
andwhenontheleveloftheriver，Ilostallmylandmarksinthelabyrinthofstreams，anddeterminedtocrosseachjustabovethefirstrapidIcameto。Theriverwasverymilky，andthestonesatthebottomcouldnotbeseen，exceptjustattheedges：IdonotknowhowIgotover。Iremembergoingin，andthinkingthatthehorsewasliftinghislegsupandputtingthemdowninthesameplaceagain，andthattheriverwasflowingbackwards。InfactIgrewdizzydirectly，butbyfixingmyeyesontheoppositebank，andleavingDoctortomanagemattersashechose，somehoworother，andmuchtomyrelief，Igottotheotherside。Itwasreallynothingatall。Iwaswetonlyalittleabovetheankle;butitistherapidityofthestreamwhichmakesitsounpleasant——infact，sopositivelyhardtothosewhoarenotusedtoit。
OntheirfewfirstexperiencesofoneoftheseNewZealandrivers，peopledislikethemextremely;theythenbecomeverycalloustothem，andareasunreasonablyfoolhardyastheywerebeforetimorous;thentheygenerallygetanescapefromdrowningortwo，orelsetheygetdrownedinearnest。Afteroneortwoescapestheiroriginalrespectfortheriversreturns，andforeveraftertheylearnnottoplayanyunnecessarytrickswiththem。Notayearpassesbutwhateachofthemsendsoneormoretohisgrave;yetaslongastheyareattheirordinarylevel，andcrossedwithduecare，thereisnorealdangerinthemwhatever。IhavecrossedandrecrossedtheWaimakiririsoofteninmylatetripthatIhaveceasedtobemuchafraidofitunlessitishigh，andthenIassureyouthatIamfartoonervoustoattemptit。
WhenIcrosseditfirstIwasassuredthatitwasnothigh，butonlyalittlefull。
TheWaimakiririflowsfromthebackcountryoutintotheplainsthroughaverybeautifulnarrowgorge。Thechannelwindsbetweenwoodedrocks，beneathwhichtheriverwhirlsandfretsandeddiesmostgloriously。
Abovethelowercliffs，whichdescendperpendicularlyintotheriver，riseloftymountainstoanelevationofseveralthousandfeet：sothatthesceneryhereistrulyfine。Intheriver-bed，nearthegorge，thereisagooddealoflignite，and，neartheKowai，alittletributarywhichcomesinafewmilesbelowthegorge，thereisanextensivebedoftrueandvaluablecoal。
ThebackcountryoftheWaimakiririisinaccessiblebydray，sothatallthestoresandallthewoolhavetobepackedinandpackedoutonhorseback。Thisisaverygreatdrawback，andonewhichisnotlikelytobesoonremoved。Inwinter-time，also，thepasswhichleadsintoitissometimesentirelyobstructedbysnow，sothatthesquattersinthatpartofthecountrymusthaveahardertimeofitthanthoseontheplains。Theyhavebush，however，andthatisaveryimportantthing。
IshallnotgiveyouanyfullaccountofwhatIsawasIwentuptheWaimakiriri，forwereItodosoIshouldonlyrepeatmylastletter。
SufficeitthatthereisamagnificentmountainchainoftrulyAlpinecharacterattheheadoftheriver，andthat，inparts，thesceneryisquiteequalingrandeurtothatofSwitzerland，butfarinferiorinbeauty。Howonedoeslongtoseesomesignsofhumancareinthemidstoftheloneliness！Howonewouldlike，too，tocomeoccasionallyacrosssomelittleauberge，withitsvinordinaireandrefreshingfruit！Thesethings，however，areasyetinthefarfuture。Asforvinordinaire，I
donotsupposethat，exceptatAkaroa，theclimatewilleveradmitofgrapesripeninginthissettlement——notthatthesummerisnotwarmenough，butbecausethenightfrostscomeearly，evenwhilethedaysareexceedinglyhot。NeitherdoesoneseehowthesebackvalleyscaneverbecomesodenselypeopledasSwitzerland;theyaretoorockyandtoopoor，andtoomuchcutupbyriver-beds。
Isawonesaddlelowenoughtobecoveredwithbush，endingavalleyofsomemilesinlength，throughwhichflowedasmallstreamwithdensebushoneitherside。IfirmlybelievethatthissaddlewillleadtotheWestCoast;butasthevalleywasimpassableforahorse，andas，beingalone，Iwasafraidtotacklethecarryingfoodandblankets，andtoleaveDoctor，whomightveryprobablywalkoffwhilstIwasonthewrongsideoftheWaimakiriri，Ishirkedtheinvestigation。Icertainlyoughttohavegoneupthatvalley。IfeelasthoughIhadleftastoneunturned，andmust，ifalliswell，atsomefuturetimetakesomeonewithmeandexploreit。Ifoundafewflatsuptheriver，buttheyweretoosmallandtoohighuptobeworthmywhiletotake。
April，1860。——Ihavemadeanotherlittletrip，andthistimehavetriedtheRangitata。Mycompanionandmyselfhavefoundasmallpieceofcountry，whichwehavejusttakenup。Wefearitmaybesnowyinwinter，buttheexpenseoftakingupcountryisverysmall;andevenshouldweeventuallythrowitupthechancesarethatwemaybeabletodosowithprofit。Weare，however，sanguinethatitmaybeaveryusefullittlerun，butshallhavetoseeitthroughnextwinterbeforewecansafelyputsheepuponit。
IhavelittletotellyouconcerningtheRangitatadifferentfromwhatI
havealreadywrittenabouttheWaimakiririandtheHarpur。Thefirstgreatinterestwas，ofcourse，findingthecountrywhichwetookup;thenextwaswhatIconfesstotheweaknessofhavingenjoyedmuchmore——
namely，amostmagnificentviewofthatmostmagnificentmountain，MountCook。ItisoneofthegrandestIhaveeverseen。Iwillgiveyouashortaccountoftheday。
Westartedfromalonelyvalley，downwhichrunsastreamcalledForestCreek。Itisanugly，barren-lookingplaceenough——adeepvalleybetweentwohighranges，whicharenotentirelyclearofsnowformorethanthreeorfourmonthsintheyear。Asitsnameimports，ithassomewood，thoughnotmuch，fortheRangitatabackcountryisverybareoftimber。Westarted，asIsaid，fromthebottomofthisvalleyonaclearfrostymorning——sofrostythatthetea-leavesinourpannikinswerefrozen，andourouterblanketcrispedwithfrozendew。Wewentupalittlegorge，asnarrowasastreetinGenoa，withhugeblackanddrippingprecipicesoverhangingit，soasalmosttoshutoutthelightofheaven。Ineversawsocuriousaplaceinmylife。Itsoonopenedout，andwefollowedupthelittlestreamwhichflowedthroughit。Thiswasnoeasywork。Thescrubwasverydense，andtherockshuge。Thespaniard\"pikedusintilthebane，\"andIassureyouthatwewerehardsettomakeanyheadwayatall。Atlastwecametoawaterfall，theonlyoneworthyofthenamethatIhaveyetseen。This\"stuckusup，\"
astheysayhereconcerninganydifficulty。Wemanaged，however，to\"slew\"it，asthey，nolesselegantly，sayconcerningthesurmountingofanobstacle。Afterfivehoursofmosttoilsomeclimbing，wefoundthevegetationbecomescanty，andsoongotontothelooseshinglewhichwasnearthetopoftherange。
Insevenhoursfromthetimewestarted，wewereonthetop。Hencewehadhopedtodiscoversomeentirelynewcountry，butweredisappointed，forweonlysawtheMackenziePlainslyingstretchedoutformilesawaytothesouthward。Theseplainsaresocalledafteranotoriousshepherd，whodiscoveredthemsomefewyearssince。Keepinghisknowledgetohimself，heusedtostealhismaster’ssheepanddrivethemquietlyintohisunsuspectedhiding-place。Thishedidsocleverlythathewasnotdetecteduntilhehadstolenmanyhundred。Muchobscurityhangsoverhisproceedings：itissupposedthathemadeonesuccessfultripdowntoOtago，throughthiscountry，andsoldagoodmanyofthesheephehadstolen。Heisamanofgreatphysicalstrength，andcanbenocommoncharacter;manystoriesaretoldabouthim，andhisfamewillbelasting。Hewastakenandescapedmorethanonce，andfinallywaspardonedbytheGovernor，onconditionofhisleavingNewZealand。Itwasratherastrangeproceeding，andIdoubthowfairtothecountrywhichhemayhavechosentohonourwithhispresence，forIshouldsupposethereishardlyamoredaringanddangerousrascalgoing。
However，hisboldnessandskillhadwonhimsympathyandadmiration，sothatIbelievethepardonwasratherapopularactthanotherwise。Toreturn。Therewelayontheshingle-bed，atthetopoftherange，inthebroilingnoonday;forevenatthataltitudeitwasveryhot，andtherewasnocloudintheskyandverylittlebreeze。Isawthatifwewantedacompleteviewwemustclimbtothetopofapeakwhich，thoughonlyafewhundredfeethigherthanwherewewerelying，neverthelesshidagreatdealfromus。Iaccordinglybegantheascent，havingarrangedwithmycompanionthatiftherewascountrytobeseenheshouldbecalled，ifnot，heshouldbeallowedtotakeiteasy。Well，I
sawsnowypeakaftersnowypeakcomeinviewasthesummitinfrontofmenarrowed，butnomountainswerevisiblehigherorgranderthanwhatI
hadalreadyseen。Suddenly，asmyeyesgotonalevelwiththetop，sothatIcouldseeover，Iwasstruckalmostbreathlessbythewonderfulmountainthatburstonmysight。Theeffectwasstartling。Itrosetoweringinamassyparallelogram，disclosedfromtoptobottominthecloudlesssky，farabovealltheothers。Itwasexactlyoppositetome，andaboutthenearestinthewholerange。Soyoumayimaginethatitwasindeedasplendidspectacle。IthasbeencalculatedbytheAdmiraltypeopleat13，200feet，butMr。Haast，agentlemanofhighscientificattainmentsintheemployofGovernmentasgeologicalsurveyor，saysthatitisconsiderablyhigher。Formypart，Icanwellbelieveit。MontBlanchimselfisnotsograndinshape，anddoesnotlooksoimposing。Indeed，IamnotsurethatMountCookisnotthefinestinoutlineofallthesnowymountainsthatIhaveeverseen。Itisnotvisiblefrommanyplacesontheeasternsideoftheisland，andthefrontrangesaresoloftythattheyhideit。ItcanbeseenfromthetopofBanksPeninsula，andforafewhundredyardssomewherenearTimaru，andoveragooddealoftheMackenziecountry，butnowhereelseontheeasternsideofthissettlement，unlessfromagreatheight。Itis，however，wellworthanyamountofclimbingtosee。Noonecanmistakeit。IfapersonsaysheTHINKShehasseenMountCook，youmaybequitesurethathehasnotseenit。Themomentitcomesintosighttheexclamationis，\"ThatisMountCook！\"——not\"ThatMUSTbeMountCook！\"Thereisnopossibilityofmistake。ThereisagloriousfieldforthemembersoftheAlpineClubhere。MountCookawaitsthem，andhewhofirstscalesitwillbecrownedwithundyinglaurels：formypart，thoughitishazardoustosaythisofanymountain，Idonotthinkthatanyhumanbeingwilleverreachitstop。
Iamforgettingmyselfintoadmiringamountainwhichisofnouseforsheep。Thisiswrong。Amountainhereisonlybeautifulifithasgoodgrassonit。Sceneryisnotscenery——itis\"country，\"subauditavoce\"sheep。\"Ifitisgoodforsheep，itisbeautiful，magnificent，andalltherestofit;ifnot，itisnotworthlookingat。Iamcultivatingthistoneofmindwithconsiderablesuccess，butyoumustpardonmeforanoccasionaloutbreakoftheoldAdam。
OfcourseIcalledmycompanionup，andheagreedwithmethathehadneverseenanythingsowonderful。Wegotdown，verymuchtired，alittleafterdark。Wehadhadaveryfatiguingday，butitwasamplyrepaid。Thatnightitfrozeprettysharply，andourupperblanketswereagainstiff。
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May，1860。——Notcontentwiththelittlepieceofcountrywefoundrecently，wehavesincebeenuptheHurunuitoitssource，andseenthewaterflowingdowntheTeramakaw（orthe\"Tether-my-cow，\"astheEuropeanscallit）。Wedidnogood，andturnedback，partlyowingtobadweather，andpartlyfromtheimpossibilityofproceedingfartherwithhorses。Indeed，ourpack-horsehadrolledovermorethanonce，frighteningusmuch，butfortunatelyescapingunhurt。Theseason，too，isgettingtoolateforanylongexcursion。TheHurunuiisnotasnowriver;thegreatrangebecomesmuchlowerhere，andthesaddleoftheHurunuicanhardlybemorethan3000feetabovethelevelofthesea。
Vegetationisluxuriant——mostabominablyandunpleasantlyluxuriant（forthereisnogettingthroughit）——attheverytop。Thereasonofthisis，thatthenor’-westers，comingheavilychargedwithwarmmoisture，deposititonthewesternsideofthegreatrange，andthesaddles，ofcourse，getsomeofthebenefit。Asweweregoinguptheriver，wecouldseethegapattheendofit，coveredwithdenseclouds，whichwerecomingfromtheN。W。，andwhichjustlippedoverthesaddle，andthenended。TherearesomebeautifullakesontheHurunui，surroundedbyloftywoodedmountains。ThefewMaoriesthatinhabitthissettlementtraveltotheWestCoastbywayofthisriver。Theyalwaysgoonfoot，andwesawseveraltracesoftheirencampments——littlemimis，astheyarecalled——afewlightsticksthrowntogether，andcoveredwithgrass，affordingasortofhalf-and-halfshelterforasingleindividual。Howcomfortable！
CHAPTERVI
Hut——Cadets——OpeningsforEmigrantswithoutCapital——ForthosewhobringMoney——Drunkenness——Introductions——TheRakaia——ValleyleadingtotheRangitata——Snow-grassandSpaniard——Solitude——RainandFlood——Cat——
Irishman——DiscomfortsofHut——GradualImprovement——ValueofCat。
IamnowgoingtoputupaVhutonthecountrythatItookupontheRangitata，meaningtohibernatethereinordertoseewhattheplaceislike。Ishallalsobuildamorepermanenthutthere，forImusthavesomeonewithme，andwemayaswellbedoingsomethingasnothing。I
havehopesofbeingabletopurchasesomegoodcountryintheimmediatevicinity。ThereisapieceonwhichIhavemyeye，andwhichadjoinsthatIhavealready。Therecanbe，Iimagine，nodoubtthatthisisexcellentsheepcountry;still，Ishouldliketoseeitinwinter。
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June，1860。——TheVhutisafaitaccompli，ifsosmallanundertakingcanbespokenofinsodignifiedamanner。Itconsistsofasmallroofsetupontheground;itisahut，allroofandnowalls。Iwasveryclumsy，andso，ingoodtruth，wasmyman。Still，atlast，bydintofperseverance，wehavemadeitwindandwatertight。Itwasajobthatshouldhavetakenusaboutacoupleofdaystohavedoneinfirst-ratestyle;asitwas，IamnotgoingtotellyouhowlongitDIDtake。I
mustcertainlysendthemantotheright-about，butthedifficultyistogetanother，fortheaforesaidhutisfive-and-twentymiles（attheveryleast）fromanyhumanhabitation，sothatyoumayimaginemendonotabound。Ihadtwocadetswithme，andmustexplainthatacadetmeansayoungfellowwhohaslatelycomeout，andwhowantstoseealittleofup-countrylife。Heisneitherpaidnorpays。Hereceiveshisfoodandlodginggratis，butworks（orissupposedtowork）inordertolearn。
Thetwowhoaccompaniedmebothleftmeinaveryshorttime。Ihavenothingtosayagainsteitherofthem;bothdidtheirbest，andIammuchobligedtothemforwhattheydid，butaveryfewdays’experienceshowedmethatthesystemisabadoneforallthepartiesconcernedinit。Thecadetsoongetstiredofworkingfornothing;and，asheisnotpaid，itisdifficulttocomedownuponhim。Ifheisgoodforanything，heisworthpay，aswellasboardandlodging。Ifnotworthmorethantheselast，heissimplyanuisance，forhesetsabadexample，whichcannotbecheckedotherwisethanbydismissal;anditisnotaneasyorpleasantmattertodismissonewhoserelationisratherthatofyourfriendthanyourservant。Thepositionisafalseone，andtheblameofitsfailurelieswiththepersonwhotakesthecadet，foreitherheisgettinganadvantagewithoutgivingitsdueequivalent，orheiskeepingauselessmanabouthisplace，totheequaldetrimentbothofthemanandofhimself。Itmaybesaidthattheadvantageofferedtothecadet，inallowinghimaninsightintocoloniallife，isabona-fidepaymentforwhatworkhemaydo。Thisisnotthecase;forwherelabourissoveryvaluable，agoodmanisinsuchhighdemandthathemayfindwell-paidemploymentdirectly。Whenamantakesacadet’sbilletitisatolerablysuresymptomthathemeanshalf-and-halfwork，inwhichcaseheismuchworsethanuseless。Thereis，however，anotheralternativewhichisaverydifferentmatter。Letamanpaynotonlyforhisboardandlodging，butagoodpremiumlikewise，fortheinsightthatheobtainsintoup-countrylife，thenheisatlibertytoworkornotashechooses;thestation-handscannotlookdownuponhim，astheydoupontheothercadet，neither，ifhechoosestodonothing（whichisfarlesslikelyifheisonthisfootingthanontheother），ishisexamplepernicious——itiswellunderstoodthathepaysfortheprivilegeofidleness，andhasaperfectrighttouseitifheseesfit。Ineednotsaythatthislastarrangementisonlycalculatedforthosewhocomeoutwithmoney;thosewhohavenoneshouldlookoutforthefirstemploymentwhichtheyfeelthemselvescalculatedfor，andgoinforitatonce。
Youmayask，Whatistheopeninghereforyoungmenofgoodbirthandbreeding，whohavenothingbuthealthandstrengthandenergyfortheircapital？Iwouldanswer，Nothingverybrilliant，still，theymaybeprettysureofgettingashepherd’sbilletsomewhereup-country，iftheyareknowntobetrustworthy。Iftheysustainthischaracter，theywillsoonmakefriends，andfindnogreatdifficulty，afterthelapseofayearortwo，ingettinganoverseer’splace，withfrom100to200poundsayear，andtheirboardandlodging。Theywillfindplentyofgoodinvestmentsforthesmallsumswhichtheymaybeabletolayby，andiftheyarebona-fidesmartmen，somesituationisquitesuretoturnupbyandbyinwhichtheymaybetterthemselves。Infact，theyarequitesuretodowellintime;buttimeisnecessaryhere，aswellasinotherplaces。True，lesstimemaydohere，andtruealsothattherearemoreopenings;butitmaybequestionedwhethergood，safe，ready-wittedmenwillnotfetchnearlyashighapriceinEnglandasinanypartoftheworld。Sothatifayoungandfriendlessladlandshereandmakeshiswayanddoeswell，thechancesarethathewouldhavedonewellalsohadheremainedathome。Ifhehasmoneythecaseisentirelychanged;hecaninvestitfarmoreprofitablyherethaninEngland。Anymerchantwillgivehim10percent。forit。Moneyisnottobehadforless，gowhereyouwillforit;andifobtainedfromamerchant，his2。5percent。commission，repeatedatintervalsofsixmonths，makesanominal10percent。into15。Imentionthistoshowyouthat，ifitpayspeopletogivethisexorbitantrateofinterest（andthecurrentrateMUSTbeonethatwillpaytheborrower），themeansofincreasingcapitalinthissettlementaregreat。Foryoungmen，however，sonsofgentlemenandgentlementhemselves，sheeporcattlearethemostobviousandbestinvestment。Theycanbuyandputoutuponterms，asIhavealreadydescribed。Theycanalsobuyland，andletitwithapurchasingclause，bywhichtheycanmakefirst-rateinterest。Thus，twentyacrescost40
pounds;thistheycanletforfiveyears，at5s。anacre，thelesseebeingallowedtopurchasethelandat5poundsanacreinfiveyears’
time，which，thechancesare，hewillbebothableandwillingtodo。
Beyondsheep，cattle，andland，therearefewifanyinvestmentshereforgentlemenwhocomeoutwithlittlepracticalexperienceinanybusinessorprofession，butotherswouldturnupwithtime。
WhatIhavewrittenabovereferstogoodmen。TherearemanysuchwhofindtheconventionalitiesofEnglishlifedistastefultothem，whowanttobreatheafreeratmosphere，andyethavenounsteadinessofcharacterorpurposetopreventthemfromdoingwell——menwhosehealthandstrengthandgoodsensearemorefullydevelopedthandelicatelyorganised——whofindhead-workirksomeanddistressing，butwhowouldbereadytodoagoodhardday’sworkatsomephysicallylaboriousemployment。Iftheyareinearnest，theyarecertaintodowell;ifnot，theyhadbetterbeidleathomethanhere。Idlemeninthiscountryareprettysuretotaketodrinking。Whethermenarerichorpoor，thereseemstobefargreatertendencytowardsdrinkherethanathome;andsheepfarmers，assoonastheygetthingsprettystraightandcanaffordtoleaveoffworkingthemselves，areapttoturndrunkards，unlesstheyhaveatasteforintellectualemployments。Theyfindtimehangheavyontheirhands，and，unknownalmosttothemselves，fallintothepracticeofdrinking，tillitbecomesahabit。Iamnoteetotaller，anddonotwanttomoraliseunnecessarily;stillitisimpossible，afterafewmonths’residenceinthesettlement，nottobestruckwiththefactsIhavewrittenabove。
Ishouldbelothtoadviseanygentlemantocomeouthereunlesshehaveeithermoneyandanaverageshareofgoodsense，orelsealargeamountofproperself-respectandstrengthofpurpose。Ifayoungmangoesouttofriends，onanarrangementdefinitelysettledbeforeheleavesEngland，heisatanyratecertainofemploymentandofahomeuponhislandinghere;butifhelandsfriendless，orsimplythebearerofafewlettersofintroduction，obtainedfromsecondorthirdhand——becausehiscousinknewsomebodywhohadafriendwhohadmarriedaladywhosenephewwassomewhereinNewZealand——hehasnoveryenviablelook-outuponhisarrival。
AshorttimeafterIgotuptotheRangitata，IhadoccasiontogodownagaintoChristChurch，andstayedthereoneday。Onmyreturn，withacompanion，weweredelayedtwodaysattheRakaia：averyheavyfreshhadcomedown，soastorendertheriverimpassableeveninthepunt。
Thepuntcanonlyworkupononestream;butinaheavyfreshthestreamsareverynumerous，andalmostallofthemimpassableforahorsewithoutswimminghim，which，insuchariverastheRakaia，isverydangerouswork。Sometimes，perhapshalfadozentimesinayear，theriveriswhatiscalledbankandbank;thatistosay，onemassofwaterfromonesidetotheother。Itisfrightfullyrapid，andasthickaspeasoup。
Theriver-bedisnotfarshortofamileinbreadth，soyoumayjudgeoftheimmensevolumeofwaterthatcomesdownitatthesetimes。Itisseldommorethanthreedaysimpassableinthepunt。Onthethirddaytheycommencedcrossinginthepunt，behindwhichweswamouthorses;
sincethenthecloudshadhungunceasinglyuponthemountainranges，andthoughmuchofwhathadfallenwould，onthebackranges，beinallprobabilitysnow，wecouldnotdoubtbutthattheRangitatawouldaffordussometrouble，norwereweevencertainabouttheAshburton，ariverwhich，thoughpartlyglacier-fed，isgenerallyeasilycrossedanywhere。
WefoundtheAshburtonhigh，butlowerthanithadbeen;inoneortwooftheelevencrossing-placesbetweenourafternoonandeveningresting-
placeswewerewetuptothesaddle-flaps——stillwewereabletoproceedwithoutanyrealdifficulty。Thatnightitsnowed，andthenextmorningwestartedamidaheavyrain，beinganxious，ifpossible，tomakemyownplacethatnight。
Soonafterwestartedtherainceased，andthecloudsslowlyupliftedthemselvesfromthemountainsides。WewereridingthroughthevalleythatleadsfromtheAshburtontotheuppervalleyoftheRangitata，andkeptontheright-handsideofit。Itisalong，openvalley，thebottomofwhichconsistsofalargeswamp，fromwhichriseterraceafterterraceupthemountainsoneitherside;thecountryis，asitwere，crumpledupinanextraordinarymanner，sothatitisfullofsmallpondsorlagoons——sometimesdry，sometimesmerelyswampy，nowasfullofwaterastheycouldbe。Thenumberoftheseisgreat;theydonot，however，attracttheeye，beinghiddenbythehillockswithwhicheachismoreorlesssurrounded;theyvaryinextentfromafewsquarefeetoryardstoperhapsanacreortwo，whileoneortwoattainthedimensionsofaconsiderablelake。Thereisnotimberinthisvalley，andaccordinglythescenery，thoughonalargescale，isneitherimpressivenorpleasing;themountainsarelargeswellinghummocks，grasseduptothesummit，andthoughsteeplydeclivitous，entirelydestituteofprecipice。Trulyitisratheradismalplaceonadarkday，andsomewhatliketheworld’sendwhichtheyoungprincetravelledtointhestoryof\"Cherry，ortheFrogBride。\"Thegrassiscoarseandcold-looking——greattuftsofwhatiscalledsnow-grass，andspaniard。
Thefirstofthesegrowsinaclumpsometimesfiveorsixfeetindiameterandfourorfivefeethigh;sheepandcattlepickatitwhentheyarehungry，butseldomtouchitwhiletheycangetanythingelse。
Itsseedislikethatofoats。Itisanunhappy-lookinggrass，ifgrassitbe。Spaniard，whichIhavementionedbefore，issimplydetestable;
ithasastrongsmell，halfturpentinehalfcelery。Itissometimescalledspear-grass，andgrowstoaboutthesizeofamole-hill，alloverthebackcountryeverywhere，asthickasmole-hillsinaverymole-hillyfieldathome。Itsblossoms，whicharegreen，insignificant，andugly，areattachedtoahighspikebristlingwithspearspointedeverywayandveryacutely;eachleafterminatesinastrongspear，andsofirmisit，thatifyoucomewithinitsreach，noamountofclothingaboutthelegswillpreventyoufromfeelingitseffects。Ihavehadmylegsmarkedalloverbyit。Horseshatethespaniard——andnowonder。Inthebackcountry，whentravellingwithoutatrack，itisimpossibletokeepyourhorsefromyawingaboutthiswayandthattododgeit，andifheencountersthreeorfourofthemgrowingtogether，hewilljumpoverthemordoanythingratherthanwalkthrough。Akindofwhitewax，whichburnswithverygreatbrilliancy，exudesfromtheleaf。Therearetwowaysinwhichspaniardmaybeconvertedtosomelittleuse。Thefirstisinkindlingafiretoburnarun：adeadflower-stalkservesasatorch，andyoucantouchtussockaftertussockliterally[Greektextwhichcannotbereproduced]lightingthematrightanglestothewind。Thesecondispurelyprospective;itwillbeveryvaluableforplantingonthetopsofwallstoserveinsteadofbrokenbottles：notacatwouldattemptawallsodefended。
Snow-grass，tussockgrass，spaniard，rushes，swamps，lagoons，terraces，meaninglessrisesandindentationsoftheground，andtwogreatbrowngrassymountainsoneitherside，aretheprincipalanduninterestingobjectsinthevalleythroughwhichwewereriding。Idespairofgivingyouanimpressionoftherealthing。ItissohardforanEnglishmantodivesthimself，notonlyofhedgesandditches，andcuttingsandbridges，butofallsignsofhumanexistencewhatsoever，thatunlessyouweretotravelinsimilarcountryyourselfyouwouldneverunderstandit。
AfterabouttenmilesweturnedacornerandlookeddownupontheuppervalleyoftheRangitata——verygrand，verygloomy，andverydesolate。
Theriver-bed，aboutamileandahalfbroad，wasnowconveyingaverylargeamountofwatertosea。
Somethinkthatthesourceoftheriverliesmanymileshigher，andthatitworksitswayyetfarbackintothemountains;butaswelookeduptheriver-bedwesawtwolargeandgloomygorges，attheendofeachofwhichwerehugeglaciers，distinctlyvisibletothenakedeye，butthroughthetelescoperesolvableintotumbledmassesofblueice，exactcounterpartsoftheSwissandItalianglaciers。ThesearequitesufficienttoaccountforthevolumeofwaterintheRangitata，withoutgoinganyfarther。
Theriverhadbeenhighformanydays;sohighthatapartyofmen，whoweretakingadrayovertoarunwhichwasthenbeingjuststartedontheotherside（andwhichisnowmine），hadbeendetainedcampingoutfortendays，andweredelayedfortendaysmorebeforethedraycouldcross。Wespentafewminuteswiththesemen，amongwhomwasayouthwhomIhadbroughtawayfromhomewithme，whenIwasstartingdownforChristChurch，inorderthathemightgetsomebeeffromP-’sandtakeitbackagain。Theriverhadcomedowntheeveningonwhichwehadcrossedit，andsohehadbeenunabletogetthebeefandhimselfhomeagain。
Weallwantedtogetback，forhome，thoughhomebeonlyaVhut，isworthpushingfor;alittlethingwillinduceamantoleaveit，butifheisnearhisjourney’sendhewillgothroughmostplacestoreachitagain。Sowedeterminedongoingon，andaftergreatdifficultyandmanyturningsuponestreamanddownanotherwesucceededingettingsafelyover。Wewerewetwellovertheknee，butjustavoidedswimming。
Igotintoonequicksand，ofwhichtheriverisfull，andhadtojumpoffmymare，butthiswasquitenearthebank。
Ihadacatonthepommelofmysaddle，fortheratsusedtocomeandtakethemeatfromoffourveryplatesbyourside。Shegotasousingwhenthemarewasinthequicksand，butIheardherpurringnotverylongafter，andwascomforted。Ofcourseshewasinabag。Idonotknowhowitis，butmenherearemuchfonderofcatsthantheyareathome。
Afterwehadcrossedtheriver，thereweremanytroublesomecreeksyettogothrough——sluggishandswampy，withbadplacesforgettinginandoutat;these，however，wereasnothingincomparisonwiththeriveritself，whichweallhadfearedmorethanwecaredtosay，andwhich，ingoodtruth，wasnotaltogetherunworthyoffear。
Byandbyweturneduptheshinglyriver-bedwhichleadstothespotonwhichmyhutisbuilt。TheriveriscalledForestCreek，and，thoughusuallynothingbutalargebrook，itwasnowhigh，andunpleasantfromitsrapidityandthelargebouldersoverwhichitflows。Littlebylittle，nightandheavyraincameon，andrightgladwerewewhenwesawthetwinklinglightontheterracewherethehutwas，andwerethusassuredthattheIrishman，whohadbeenleftaloneandwithoutmeatforthelasttendays，wasstillinthelandoftheliving。Twoorthreecoo-eyssoonmadehimawarethatwewerecoming，andIbelievehewasalmostaspleasedtoseeusasRobinsonCrusoewastoseetheSpaniardwhowasbroughtoverbythecannibalstobekilledandeaten。WhattheoldIrishmanhadbeenaboutduringourabsenceIcannotsay。Hecouldnothavespentmuchtimeineating，fortherewaswonderfullylittlebesidesflour，tea，andsugarforhimtoeat。Therewasnogrogupontheestablishment，sohecouldnothavebeendrinking。Hehaddistinctlyseenmyghosttwonightsbefore。IhadbeencoherentlydrownedintheRangitata;andwhenhehearduscoo-eyinghewasalmostcertainthatitwastheghostagain。
IhadlefttheVhutwarmandcomfortable，andonmyreturnfounditverydifferent。Ifearwehadnotputenoughthatchuponit，andthetendays’rainhadprovedtoomuchforit。Itwasnowneitherair-tightnorwater-tight;thefloor，orrathertheground，wassoakedandsoppywithmud;thenicewarmsnow-grassonwhichIhadlainsocomfortablythenightbeforeIleft，wasmuddyandwet;altogether，therebeingnofireinside，theplacewasasrevolting-lookinganaffairasonewouldwishtosee：comingwetandcoldoffajourney，wehadhopedforbetterthings。Therewasnothingforitbuttomakethebestofit，sowehadtea，andfriedsomeofthebeef——thesmellofwhichwasanythingbutagreeable，forithadbeenlyingtendaysonthegroundontheothersidetheRangitata，andwas，tosaytheleast，somewhathigh——andthenwesatinourgreat-coatsonfourstonesroundthefire，andsmoked;
thenIbaked，andoneofthecadetswashedup;andthenwearrangedourblanketsasbestwecould，andweresoonasleep，alikeunconsciousofthedrippingrain，whichcamethroughtheroofofthehut，andofthecold，rawatmospherewhichwasinsinuatingitselfthroughthenumerouscrevicesofthethatch。