第4章
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  Iarrangedthattheexpeditionshouldstartinthreedivisions。

  Sixsteamers,varyingfrom40to80-horsepower,wereorderedtoleaveCairoinJune,togetherwithfifteensloopsandfifteendiahbeeahs——

  total,thirty-sixvessels——toascendthecataractsoftheNiletoKhartoum,adistancebyriverofabout1,450miles。Thesevesselsweretoconveythewholeofthemerchandise。

  Twenty-fivevesselswereorderedtobeinreadinessatKhartoum,togetherwiththreesteamers。Thegovernor-generalDjiafferPachawastoprovidethesevesselsbyacertaindate,togetherwiththecamelsandhorsesnecessaryforthelandtransport。

  ThuswhenthefleetshouldarriveatKhartoumfromCairo,thetotalforceofvesselswouldbeninesteamersandfifty-fivesailingvessels,thelatteraveragingaboutfiftytonseach。

  Mr。HigginbothamhadthecommandofthedeserttransportfromKoroskotoKhartoum,andtothatadmirableofficerIintrustedthechargeofthesteamersectionsandmachinery,togetherwiththecommandoftheEnglishengineersandmechanics。

  Iarrangedtobringuptherearbyanotherroute,viaSouakimontheRedSea,fromwhichthedesertjourneytoBerber,ontheNile,N。lat。17

  degrees37minutes,is275statutemiles。

  Myreasonforthisdivisionofrouteswastoinsureaquicksupplyofcamels,asmuchdelaywouldhavebeenoccasionedhadthegreatmassoftransportbeenconveyedbyoneroad。

  Themilitaryarrangementscomprisedaforceof1,645troops,includingacorpsof200irregularcavalry,andtwobatteriesofartillery。Theinfantryweretworegiments,supposedtobewellselected。TheblackorSoudaniregimentincludedmanyofficersandmenwhohadservedforsomeyearsinMexicowiththeFrencharmyunderMarshalBazaine。TheEgyptianregimentturnedouttobeforthemostpartconvictedfelonswhohadbeentransportedforvariouscrimesfromEgypttotheSoudan。

  Theartillerywererifledmountaingunsofbronze,thebarrelweighing230lbs。,andthrowingshellsof8-1/4lbs。TheauthoritiesatWoolwichhadkindlysuppliedtheexpeditionwith200Hale’srockets——three-pounders——andfiftysniderrifles,togetherwith50,000

  roundsofsniderammunition。ThemilitaryforceandsuppliesweretobemassedinKhartoumreadytomeetmeuponmyarrival。

  Ihadtakenextraprecautionsinthepackingofammunitionandallperishablegoods。Theteakboxesforsniderammunition,alsotheboxesofHale’srockets,werelinedandhermeticallysealedwithsolderedtin。

  ThelightManchestergoodsandsmallerarticleswerepackedinstrong,useful,paintedtinboxes,withlocksandhinges,&c。Eachboxwasnumbered,andwhenthelidwasopened,atinplatewassolderedovertheopenface,sothatthelid,whenclosed,lockedaboveanhermeticallysealedcase。Eachtinboxwaspackedinadealcase,withanumbertocorrespondwiththeboxwithin。

  Bythisarrangementthetinboxesarrivedattheirdestinationasgoodasnew,andwerequiteinvaluablefortravelling,astheyeachformedahandyload,andwerealikeproofagainsttheattacksofinsectsandbadweather。

  Ihadlongwaterproofcloaksforthenightsentriesinrainyclimates,andsou’-westercaps;theseprovedofgreatserviceduringactiveoperationsinthewetseason,astherifleswerekeptdrybeneaththecloaks,andthemenwereprotectedfromwetandcoldwhenonguard。

  AllmedicinesanddrugswereprocuredfromApothecaries’Hall,andwereaccordinglyofthebestquality。

  Theprovisionsforthetroopsweredhurrasorghumvulgare,wheat,rice,andlentils。ThesuppliesfromEngland,andinfactthegeneralarrangements,hadbeensocarefullyattendedto,thatthroughouttheexpeditionIcouldnotfeelawant,neithercouldIeitherregretorwishtohavechangedanyplanthatIhadoriginallydetermined。

  ForthetransportoftheheavymachineryacrossthedesertIemployedguncarriagesdrawnbytwocamelseach。ThetwosectionsofsteamersandoflifeboatswereslunguponlongpolesoffirfromTrieste,arrangedbetweentwocamelsinthemannerofshafts。Manyhundredpolesservedthispurpose,andsubsequently,wereusedathead-quartersasraftersformagazinesandvariousbuildings。

  TheNo。1steamerof250tonshadnotarrivedfromEngland。Ithereforeleftinstructionsthatshewastobeforwardedacrossthedesertuponthesameprinciplesasadoptedforthetransportoftheothervessels。

  Ihadthrownmywholeheartintotheexpedition;butIquicklyperceivedthedifficultiesthatIshouldencounterinthepassiveresistanceofthosewhoseinterestswouldbeaffectedbythesuppressionoftheslavetrade。ThearrangementsthatIhadmadewouldhaveinsuredsuccess,ifcarriedoutaccordingtothedatesspecified。ThesixsteamersandthesailingflotillafromCairoshouldhavestartedon10thJune,inordertohaveascendedthecataractsofWadyHalfahattheperiodofhighwater。Insteadofthis,thevesselsweredelayed,intheabsenceoftheKhediveinEurope,until29thAugust;thus,bythetimetheyreachedthesecondcataract,theriverhadfallen,anditwasimpossibletodragthe`steamersthroughthepassageuntilthenextseason。Thustwelvemonthswerewasted,andIwasatoncedeprivedoftheinvaluableaidofsixsteamers。

  InadditiontothisdifficultywasthefactofinevitabledelaynecessitatedbythefestivitiesattendingtheopeningoftheSuezCanal。

  TheKhedive,withhisaccustomedhospitality,hadmadeimmensepreparationsforthereceptionofvisitors,andeveryavailablevesselhadbeenpreparedfortheoccasion。

  Atrainofforty-onerailwaywaggonsladenwithsectionsofsteamers,machinery,boiler-plates,&c。,&c。,arrivedatCairo,andwereembarkedonboardelevenhiredvessels。WiththegreatestdifficultyIprocuredasteamerof140-horsepowertotowthisflotillatoKorosko,fromwhichspotthedesertjourneywouldcommence。IobtainedthissteameronlybypersonalapplicationtotheKhedive。

  AtlengthIwitnessedthestartoftheentireEnglishpartyofengineersandmechanics,togetherwithMr。HigginbothamandDr。J。Gedge。ThesteamerMinieh,towedthelonelineofelevenvesselsagainstthepowerfulstreamoftheNile。Oneofthetow-ropessnippedatthecommencementofthevoyage,whichcreatedsomeconfusion,butwhenrightedtheyquicklysteamed。outofview。Thismassofheavymaterial,includingtwosteamers,andtwosteellifeboatsoftentonseach,wastobetransportedforadistanceofabout3,000miles,400ofwhichwouldbeacrossthescorchingNubiandeserts!

  Thefirstdivisionoftheheavybaggagehadstartedon29thAugust,1869,withthesloops,toascendthecataractsdirectbyrivertoKhartoum。Idared,nottrustanyportionsofthesteamersbythisdangerousroute,lestbythelossofonevesselwithsectionsImightdestroyallhopeofsuccess。

  Itwasarelieftohavestartedthemainbranchesoftheexpedition,afterthevariousdelaysthathadalreadyseriouslyendangeredthechancesoftheWhiteNilevoyage。ForthatriverallvesselsshouldleaveKhartoumearlyinNovember。

  On5thDecember,1869,webroughtuptherear,andleftSuezonboardanEgyptiansloopofwar,theSenaar。InfourdaysandahalfwereachedSouakim,afteranescapefromwreckonthereefofShadwan,andacloseacquaintancewithalargebarque,withwhichwenearlycameintocollision。

  Thecaptainofoursloopwasamostrespectableman,apparentlyabouteightyyearsofage。Thefirstlieutenantappearedtobesomewhathissenior,andneithercouldsee,evenwiththeassistanceofaverygreasyanddirtybinocular。ThevariousofficersappearedtobevestigesfromNoah’sarkinpointofantiquity;thusacloseshavewithareefandanearrubwithastrangevesselwerelittleincidentsthatmightbeexpectedintheRedSea。

  WeanchoredsafelyintheharbourofSouakim;andlandedmytwenty-onehorseswithoutaccident。

  Iwasmetbythegovernor,myoldfriendMoomtazzBey,ahighlyintelligentCircassianofficer,whohadshownmemuchkindnessonmyformerexpedition。

  Aweek’sdelayinSouakimwasnecessarytoobtaincamels。Infourteendayswecrossedthedesert275milestoBerberontheNile,andfoundasteameranddiahbeeahinreadiness。WearrivedatKhartoum,adistanceof200milesbyriver,inthreedays,havingaccomplishedthevoyagefromSuezintheshortspaceofthirty-twodays,includingstoppages。

  Khartoumwasnotchangedexternally;butIhadobservedwithdismayafrightfulchangeinthefeaturesofthecountrybetweenBerberandthecapitalsincemyformervisit。Therichsoilonthebanksoftheriver,whichhadafewyearssincebeenhighlycultivated,wasabandoned。Nowandthenatuftofneglecteddate-palmsmightbeseen,buttheriver’sbanks,formerlyverdantwithheavycrops,hadbecomeawilderness。

  Villagesoncecrowdedhadentirelydisappeared;thepopulationwasgone。

  Irrigationhadceased。Thenight,formerlydiscordantwiththecreakingofcountlesswater-wheels,wasnowsilentasdeath。Therewasnotadogtohowlforalostmaster。Industryhadvanished;oppressionhaddriventheinhabitantsfromthesoil。

  ThisterribledesolationwascausedbythegovernorgeneraloftheSoudan,who,althoughhimselfanhonestman,trustedtoomuchtothehonestyofothers,whopreyedupontheinhabitants。AsagoodandtrueMohammedan,helefthisterritorytothecareofGod,andthus,trustinginProvidence,hesimplyincreasedthetaxes。InoneyearhesenttotheKhedivehismaster100,000poundsinharddollars,wrungfromthepoorpeasantry,whomusthavelostanequalamountinthepillagethataccompaniesthecollection。

  ThepopulationoftherichestprovinceoftheSoudanfledfromoppression,andabandonedthecountry;andthegreaterportionbetookthemselvestotheslavetradeoftheWhiteNile,where,intheirturn,theymighttrampleupontherightsofothers;where,astheyhadbeenplundered,theywouldbeabletoplunder;wheretheycouldreaptheharvestofanother’slabour;andwhere,freefromtherestrictionsofagovernment,theymightindulgeintheexcitingandlucrativeenterpriseofslave-hunting。Thousandshadforsakentheirhomes,andcommencedalifeofbrigandageontheWhiteNile。

  ThiswasthestateofthecountrywhenIarrivedatKhartoum。Thepopulationofthistown,whichwasabout30,000duringmyformervisit,wasnowreducedtohalfthenumber。TheEuropeanresidentshadalldisappeared,withtheexceptionoftheAustrianMission,andMr。HansalltheAustrianConsul;alsoanextremelytoughGermantailor,whowasproofagainsttheclimatethathadcarriedoffhiscompanions。

  Ihadgiventhenecessaryordersforvesselsandsuppliessixmonthsprevious;thus,Inaturallyexpectedtofindafleetreadyfordeparture,withthetroopsandstoreswaitingforinstructions。Tomysurprise,Idiscoveredthatmyordershadbeensofarneglected,thatalthoughthetroopswereathand,therewerenovesselspreparedfortransport。Iwascoollyinformedbythegovernor-generalthat”itwasimpossibletoprocurethenumberofvesselsrequired,thereforehehadpurchasedahouseforme,asheexpectedthatIshouldremainthatyearatKhartoum,andstartinthefollowingseason。”

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