第29章
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  Toonewhoconceivesoftheseatolls,sonarrow,sobarren,sobesetwithsea,herewouldseemasuperfluityofghostlydenizens。

  Andyettherearemore。Inthevariousbrackishpoolsandponds,beautifulwomenwithlongredhairareseentoriseandbathe;onlytimidasmiceonthefirstsoundoffeetuponthecoraltheydiveagainforever。Theyareknowntobehealthyandharmlesslivingpeople,dwellersofanunderworld;andthesamefancyiscurrentinTahiti,wherealsotheyhavethehairred。TETEAistheTahitianname;thePaumotuan,MOKUREA。

  PARTIII:THEGILBERTS

  CHAPTERI-BUTARITARI

  ATHonoluluwehadsaidfarewelltotheCASCOandtoCaptainOtis,andournextadventurewasmadeinchangedconditions。Passagewastakenformyself,mywife,Mr。Osbourne,andmyChinaboy,AhFu,onapigmytradingschooner,theEQUATOR,CaptainDennisReid;andonacertainbrightJunedayin1889,adornedintheHawaiianfashionwiththegarlandsofdeparture,wedrewoutofportandborewithafairwindforMicronesia。

  ThewholeextentoftheSouthSeasisadesertofships;moreespeciallythatpartwherewewerenowtosail。Nopostrunsintheseislands;communicationisbyaccident;whereyoumayhavedesignedtogoisonething,whereyoushallbeabletoarriveanother。Itwasmyhope,forinstance,tohavereachedtheCarolines,andreturnedtothelightofdaybywayofManilaandtheChinaports;anditwasinSamoathatweweredestinedtore-

  appearandbeoncemorerefreshedwiththesightofmountains。

  SincethesunsetfadedfromthepeaksofOahusixmonthshadintervened,andwehadseennospotofearthsohighasanordinarycottage。Ourpathhadbeenstillontheflatsea,ourdwellingsuponunerectedcoral,ourdietfromthepickle-tuboroutoftins;

  Ihadlearnedtowelcomeshark’sfleshforavariety;andamountain,anonion,anIrishpotatoorabeef-steak,hadbeenlonglosttosenseanddeartoaspiration。

  Thetwochiefplacesofourstay,ButaritariandApemama,lieneartheline;thelatterwithinthirtymiles。Bothenjoyasuperboceanclimate,daysofblindingsunandbracingwind,nightsofaheavenlybrightness。BotharesomewhatwiderthanFakarava,measuringperhapsatthewidestaquarterofamilefrombeachtobeach。Inboth,acoarsekindofTAROthrives;itscultureisachiefbusinessofthenatives,andtheconsequentmoundsandditchesmakeminiaturesceneryandamusetheeye。Inallelsetheyshowthecustomaryfeaturesofanatoll:thelowhorizon,theexpanseofthelagoon,thesedge-likerimofpalm-tops,thesamenessandsmallnessoftheland,thehugelysuperiorsizeandinterestofseaandsky。Lifeonsuchislandsisinmanypointslikelifeonshipboard。Theatoll,liketheship,issoontakenforgranted;andtheislanders,liketheship’screw,becomesoonthecentreofattention。Theislesarepopulous,independent,seatsofkinglets,recentlycivilised,littlevisited。Inthelastdecademanychangeshavecreptin;womennolongergounclothedtillmarriage;thewidownolongersleepsatnightandgoesabroadbydaywiththeskullofherdeadhusband;and,fire-armsbeingintroduced,thespearandtheshark-toothswordaresoldforcuriosities。Tenyearsagoallthesethingsandpracticesweretobeseeninuse;yettenyearsmore,andtheoldsocietywillhaveentirelyvanished。WecameinahappymomenttoseeitsinstitutionsstillerectandinApemamascarcedecayed。

  Populousandindependent-warrensofmen,ruledoverwithsomerusticpomp-suchwasthefirstandstilltherecurringimpressionofthesetinylands。AswestoodacrossthelagoonforthetownofButaritari,astretchofthelowshorewasseentobecrowdedwiththebrownroofsofhouses;thoseofthepalaceandking’ssummerparlourwhichareofcorrugatedironglitterednearoneendconspicuouslybright;theroyalcoloursflewhardbyonatallflagstaff;infront,onanartificialislet,thegaolplayedthepartofamartello。Evenuponthisfirstanddistantview,theplacehadscarcetheairofwhatittrulywas,avillage;ratherofthatwhichitwasalso,apettymetropolis,acityrusticandyetroyal。

  Thelagoonisshoal。Thetidebeingout,wewadedforsomequarterofamileintepidshallows,andsteppedashoreatlastintoaflagrantstagnancyofsunandheat。Theleesideofalineislandafternoonisindeedabreathlessplace;ontheoceanbeachthetradewillbestillblowing,boisterousandcool;outinthelagoonitwillbeblowingalso,speedingthecanoes;butthescreenofbushcompletelyinterceptsitfromtheshore,andsleepandsilenceandcompaniesofmosquitoesbrooduponthetowns。

  WemaythusbesaidtohavetakenButaritaribysurprise。Afewinhabitantswerestillabroadinthenorthend,atwhichwelanded。

  Asweadvanced,weweresoondonewithencounter,andseemedtoexploreacityofthedead。Only,betweenthepostsofopenhouses,wecouldseethetownsfolkstretchedinthesiesta,sometimesafamilytogetherveiledinamosquito-net,sometimesasinglesleeperonaplatformlikeacorpseonabier。

  Thehouseswereofalldimensions,fromthoseoftoystothoseofchurches。Somemightholdabattalion,someweresominutetheycouldscarcereceiveapairoflovers;onlyintheplayroom,whenthetoysaremingled,dowemeetsuchincongruitiesofscale。Manywereopensheds;sometooktheformofroofedstages;otherswerewalledandthewallspiercedwithlittlewindows。Afewwereperchedonpilesinthelagoon;thereststoodatrandomonagreen,throughwhichtheroadwaymadearibbonofsand,oralongtheembankmentsofasheetofwaterlikeashallowdock。Oneandallwerethecreaturesofasingletree;palm-treewoodandpalm-

  treeleaftheirmaterials;nonailhadbeendriven,nohammersounded,intheirbuilding,andtheywereheldtogetherbylashingsofpalm-treesinnet。

  Inthemidstofthethoroughfare,thechurchstandslikeanisland,aloftyanddimhousewithrowsofwindows;arichtraceryofframingsustainstheroof;andthroughthedoorateitherendthestreetshowsinavista。Theproportionsoftheplace,insuchsurroundings,andbuiltofsuchmaterials,appearedaugust;andwethreadedthenavewithasentimentbefittingvisitorsinacathedral。Benchesrunalongeitherside。Inthemidst,onacrazydais,twochairsstandreadyforthekingandqueenwhentheyshallchoosetoworship;overtheirheadsahoop,apparentlyfromahogshead,dependsbyastripofredcotton;andthehoopwhichhangsaskewisdressedwithstreamersofthesamematerial,redandwhite。

  Thiswasourfirstadvertisementoftheroyaldignity,andpresentlywestoodbeforeitsseatandcentre。ThepalaceisbuiltofimportedwooduponaEuropeanplan;theroofofcorrugatediron,theyardenclosedwithwalls,thegatesurmountedbyasortoflych-house。Itcannotbecalledspacious;alabourerintheStatesissometimesmorecommodiouslylodged;butwhenwehadthechancetoseeitwithin,wefounditwasenrichedbeyondallislandexpectationwithcolouredadvertisementsandcutsfromtheillustratedpapers。Evenbeforethegatesomeofthetreasuresofthecrownstandpublic:abellofagoodmagnitude,twopiecesofcannon,andasingleshell。Thebellcannotberungnorthegunsfired;theyarecuriosities,proofsofwealth,apartoftheparadeoftheroyalty,andstandtobeadmiredlikestatuesinasquare。

  Astraightgutofwaterlikeacanalrunsalmosttothepalacedoor;thecontainingquay-wallsexcellentlybuiltofcoral;overagainstthemouth,bywhatseemsaneffectoflandscapeart,themartello-likeisletofthegaolbreaksthelagoon。Vassalchiefswithtribute,neighbourmonarchscomea-roving,mightheresailin,viewwithsurprisetheseextensivepublicworks,andbeawedbythesemouthsofsilentcannon。Itwasimpossibletoseetheplaceandnottofancyitdesignedforpageantry。Buttheelaboratetheatrethenstoodempty;theroyalhousedeserted,itsdoorsandwindowsgaping;thewholequarterofthetownimmersedinsilence。

  Ontheoppositebankofthecanal,onaroofedstage,anancientgentlemansleptpublicly,solevisibleinhabitant;andbeyondonthelagoonacanoespreadastripedlateen,thesolethingmoving。

  Thecanalisformedonthesouthbyapierorcausewaywithaparapet。Atthefarendtheparapetstops,andthequayexpandsintoanoblongpeninsulainthelagoon,thebreathing-placeandsummerparlouroftheking。Themidstisoccupiedbyanopenhouseorpermanentmarquee-calledhereamaniapa,or,asthewordisnowpronounced,amaniap’-atthelowestestimationfortyfeetbysixty。Theironroof,loftybutexceedinglylow-browed,sothatawomanmuststooptoenter,issupportedexternallyonpillarsofcoral,withinbyaframeofwood。Thefloorisofbrokencoral,dividedinaislesbytheuprightsoftheframe;thehousefarenoughfromshoretocatchthebreeze,whichentersfreelyanddispersesthemosquitoes;andundertheloweavesthesunisseentoglitterandthewavestodanceonthelagoon。

  Itwasnowsomewhilesincewehadmetanybutslumberers;andwhenwehadwandereddownthepierandstumbledatlastintothisbrightshed,weweresurprisedtofinditoccupiedbyasocietyofwakefulpeople,sometwentysoulsinall,thecourtandguardsmenofButaritari。Thecourtladieswerebusymakingmats;theguardsmenyawnedandsprawled。Halfadozenrifleslayonarockandacutlasswasleanedagainstapillar:thearmouryofthesedrowsymusketeers。Atthefarend,alittleclosedhouseofwooddisplayedsometinselcurtains,andproved,uponexamination,tobeaprivyontheEuropeanmodel。Infrontofthis,uponsomemats,lolledTebureimoa,theking;behindhim,onthepanelsofthehouse,twocrossedriflesrepresentedfasces。Heworepyjamaswhichsorrowfullymisbecamehisbulk;hisnosewashookedandcruel,hisbodyovercomewithsoddencorpulence,hiseyetimorousanddull:heseemedatonceoppressedwithdrowsinessandheldawakebyapprehension:apepperrajahmuddledwithopium,andlisteningforthemarchofaDutcharmy,looksperhapsnototherwise。Weweretogrowbetteracquainted,andfirstandlastI

  hadthesameimpression;heseemedalwaysdrowsy,yetalwaystohearkenandstart;and,whetherfromremorseorfear,thereisnodoubtheseeksarefugeintheabuseofdrugs。

  Therajahdisplayednosignofinterestinourcoming。Butthequeen,whosatbesidehiminapurplesacque,wasmoreaccessible;

  andtherewaspresentaninterpretersowillingthathisvolubilitybecameatlastthecauseofourdeparture。Hehadgreetedusuponourentrance:-’ThatisthehonourableKing,andIamhisinterpreter,’hehadsaid,withmorestatelinessthantruth。Forheheldnoappointmentinthecourt,seemedextremelyill-

  acquaintedwiththeislandlanguage,andwaspresent,likeourselves,uponavisitofcivility。Mr。Williamswashisname:

  anAmericandarkey,runawayship’scook,andbar-keeperatTHELAND

  WELIVEINtavern,Butaritari。Ineverknewamanwhohadmorewordsinhiscommandorlesstruthtocommunicate;neitherthegloomofthemonarch,normyowneffortstobedistant,couldintheleastabashhim;andwhenthesceneclosed,thedarkeywaslefttalking。

  Thetownstillslumbered,orhadbutjustbeguntoturnandstretchitself;itwasstillplungedinheatandsilence。Somuchthemorevividwastheimpressionthatwecarriedawayofthehouseupontheislet,theMicronesianSaulwakefulamidhisguards,andhisunmelodiousDavid,Mr。Williams,chatteringthroughthedrowsyhours。

  CHAPTERII-THEFOURBROTHERS

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