Shewasnownotmerelyanangler,buta\"record\"anglerofthemostvirulenttype.Wherevertheywent,shewanted,andshegot,thepickofthewater.Sheseemedtobeequallyathomeonallkindsofstreams,largeandsmall.Shewouldpursuethelittlemountain—
brooktroutintheearlyspring,andtheLabradorsalmoninJuly,andthehugespeckledtroutofthenorthernlakesinSeptember,withthesameavidityandresolution.Allthatshecaredforwastogetthebestandthemostofthefishingateachplacewheresheangled.
Thisshealwaysdid.
AndBeekman,——well,forhimtherewerenomorelongseparationsfromthepartnerofhislifewhilehewentofftofishsomefavouritestream.Therewerenomorehome—comingsafteragoodday’ssporttofindhercladincoolanddaintyraimentontheverandah,readytowelcomehimwithfriendlybadinage.TherewasnotevenanycastingoftheflyaroundHardscrabblePointwhileshesatinthecanoereadinganovel,lookingupwithmildandpleasantinterestwhenhecaughtalargerfishthanusual,asanolderandwiserpersonlooksatachildplayingsomeinnocentgame.Thosedaysofadividedinterestbetweenmanandwifeweregone.Shewasnowfullyconverted,andmore.BeekmanandCorneliawereone;andshewastheone.
ThelasttimeIsawtheDePeystershewasfollowingheralongtheBeaverkill,carryingalanding—netandabasket,butnorod.Shepausedforamomenttoexchangegreetings,andthenstrodeondownthestream.Helingeredforafewminuteslongertolightapipe.
\"Well,oldman,\"Isaid,\"youcertainlyhavesucceededinmakingananglerofMrs.DePeyster.\"
\"Yes,indeed,\"heanswered,——\"haven’tI?\"Thenhecontinued,afterafewthoughtfulpuffsofsmoke,\"Doyouknow,I’mnotquitesosureasIusedtobethatfishingisthebestofallsports.I
sometimesthinkofgivingitupandgoinginforcroquet.\"
FISHINGINBOOKS
\"SIMPSON.——HaveyoueverseenanyAmericanbooksonangling,Fisher?\"
\"FISHER.——No,Idonotthinkthereareanypublished.BrotherJonathanisnotyetsufficientlycivilizedtoproduceanythingoriginalonthegentleart.Thereisgoodtrout—fishinginAmerica,andthestreams,whichareallfree,aremuchlessfishedthaninourIsland,’fromthesmallnumberofgentlemen,’asanAmericanwritersays,’whoareatleisuretogivetheirtimetoit.’\"
——WILLIAMANDREWCHATTO:TheAngler’sSouvenir(London,1835).
Thatwisemanandaccomplishedscholar,SirHenryWotton,thefriendofIzaakWaltonandambassadorofKingJamesItotherepublicofVenice,wasaccustomedtosaythat\"hewouldratherlivefiveMaymonthsthanfortyDecembers.\"Thereasonforthispreferencewasnosecrettothosewhoknewhim.IthadnothingtodowithBritishorVenetianpolitics.ItwassimplybecauseDecember,withallitsdomesticjoys,ispracticallyadeadmonthintheangler’scalendar.
Hisoccupationisgone.Thebettersortoffishareoutofseason.
Thetroutareleanandhaggard:itisnotricktocatchthemandnotreattoeatthem.Thesalmon,allexceptthesillykelts,haverunouttosea,andtheplaceoftheirhabitationnomanknohisgoings,thatonlythreeotherwriters,sofarasIknow,haveeverspokenillofhim.
weth.Thereisnothingfortheanglertodobutwaitforthereturnofspring,andmeanwhileencourageandsustainhispatiencewithsuchsmallconsolationsinkindasafriendlyProvidencemayputwithinhisreach.
Somesolacemaybefound,onadayofcrisp,wintryweather,inthechildishdiversionofcatchingpickerelthroughtheice.Thismethodoftakingfishispractisedonalargescaleandwithelaboratemachinerybymenwhosupplythemarket.Ispeaknotoftheircommercialenterpriseanditsgrossequipage,butofice—
fishinginitsmoresportiveanddesultoryform,asitispursuedbycountryboysandtheincorrigiblevillageidler.
Youchooseforthispastimeapondwheretheiceisnottoothick,lestthelabourofcuttingthroughshouldbediscouraging;nortoothin,lestthechanceofbreakinginshouldbeembarrassing.Youthenchopout,withalmostanykindofahatchetorpick,anumberofholesintheice,makingeachonesixoreightinchesindiameter,andplacingthemaboutfiveorsixfeetapart.Ifyouhappentoknowthecourseofacurrentflowingthroughthepond,orthelocationofashoalfrequentedbyminnows,youwilldowelltokeepnearit.Overeachholeyousetasmallcontrivancecalleda\"tilt—up.\"Itconsistsoftwosticksfastenedinthemiddle,atrightanglestoeachother.Thestrongerofthetwoislaidacrosstheopeningintheice.Theotheristhusbalancedabovetheaperture,withabaitedhookandlineattachedtooneend,whiletheotherendisadornedwithalittleflag.Forchoice,Iwouldhavetheflagsred.Theylookgayer,andIimaginetheyaremorelucky.
Whenyouhavethusbaitedandsetyourtilt—ups,——twentyorthirtyofthem,——youmayputonyourskatesandamuseyourselfbyglidingtoandfroonthesmoothsurfaceoftheice,cuttingfiguresofeightandgrapevinesanddiamondtwists,whileyouwaitforthepickereltobegintheirpartoftheperformance.Theywillletyouknowwhentheyareready.
Afish,swimmingaroundinthedimdepthsundertheice,seesoneofyourbaits,fanciesit,andtakesitin.Themomenthetriestorunawaywithithetiltsthelittleredflagintotheairandwavesitbackwardandforward.\"Bequick!\"hesignalsallunconsciously;
\"hereIam;comeandpullmeup!\"
Whentwoorthreeflagsareflutteringatthesamemoment,farapartonthepond,youmustskatewithspeedandhaulinyourlinespromptly.
Howharditis,sometimes,todecidewhichoneyouwilltakefirst!
Thatflaginthemiddleofthepondhasbeenwavingforatleastaminute;buttheother,inthecornerofthebay,istiltingupanddownmoreviolently:itmustbealargerfish.GreatDagon!There’sanotherredsignalflying,awayoverbythepoint!Youhesitate,youmakeafewstrokesinonedirection,thenyouwhirlaroundanddarttheotherway.Meantimeoneofthetilt—ups,constructedwithtooshortacross—stick,hasbeenpulledtooneside,anddisappearsinthehole.Onepickerelinthepondcarriesaflag.Anothertilt—upceasestomoveandfallsflatupontheice.Thebaithasbeenstolen.Youdashdesperatelytowardthethirdflagandpullintheonlyfishthatisleft,——probablythesmallestofthemall!
Asurplusofopportunitiesdoesnotinsurethebestluck.
Aroomwithsevendoors——likethefamousapartmentinWashington’sheadquartersatNewburgh——isaninvitationtobewilderment.Iwouldratherseeonefairopeninginlifethanbeconfusedbythreedazzlingchances.
Therewasagoodstoryaboutfishingthroughtheicewhichformedpartofthestock—in—conversationofthatingeniouswoodsman,MartinMoody,Esquire,ofBigTupperLake.\"’Twasablamecoldday,\"hesaid,\"andthelinesfrizupstiffer’nafence—wire,jus’asfastasIpulled’emin,andmyfingersgotsodum’frostedIcouldn’tbaitthehooks.Butthefishwasthickerandhungrier’nfliesinJune.SoIjus’tookapieceofbaitandhelditoveroneo’theholes.Everytimeafishjumpeduptogitit,I’dkickhimoutontheice.Itellye,sir,Ikickedoutmore’nfourhundredpoundsofpick’relthatmorning.Yaas,’twasabiglot,I’low,butthen’twasacoldday!Ijus’stacked’emupsolid,likecordwood.\"
Letusnowleavethisfrigidsubject!Icedfishingisbutachillingandunsatisfactoryimitationofrealsport.Theanglerwillsoonturnfromitwithsatiety,andseekabetterconsolationforthewinterofhisdiscontentintheentertainmentoffishinginbooks.
Anglingistheonlysportthatboaststhehonourofhavinggivenaclassictoliterature.
IzaakWalton’ssuccesswithTHECOMPLEATANGLERwasafineillustrationoffisherman’sluck.Hesetout,withsomeaidfromanadeptinfly—fishingandcookery,namedThomasBarker,toproducealittle\"discourseoffishandfishing\"whichshouldserveasausefulmanualforquietpersonsinclinedtofollowthecontemplativeman’srecreation.Hecamehomewithabookwhichhasmadehisnamebelovedbytengenerationsofgentlereaders,andgivenhimasecureplaceinthePantheonofletters,——notahaughtyeminence,butamodestniche,allhisown,andeveradornedwithgratefulofferingsoffreshflowers.
Thiswasgreatluck.Butitwaswell—deserved,andthereforeithasnotbeengrudgedorenvied.
Waltonwasamansopeacefulandcontented,sofriendlyinhisdisposition,andsoinnocentinallOnewasthatsour—complexionedCromwelliantrooper,RichardFranck,whowrotein1658anenviousbookentitledNORTHERNMEMOIRS,CALCULATEDFORTHEMERIDIANOFSCOTLAND,ETC.,TOWHICHISADDEDTHE
CONTEMPLATIVEANDPRACTICALANGLER.InthisbookthefuriousFranckfirstpaysWaltontheflatteryofimitation,andthenfurtheradornshimwithabuse,callingTHECOMPLEATANGLER\"anindigestedoctavo,stuffedwithmoralsfromDubraviusandothers,\"andmorethanhintingthatthefatherofanglersknewlittleornothingof\"hisuncultivatedart.\"WaltonwasaChurchmanandaLoyalist,yousee,whileFranckwasaCommonwealthmanandanIndependent.
TheseconddetractorofWaltonwasLordByron,whowrote\"Thequaint,old,cruelcoxcombinhisgulletShouldhaveahook,andasmalltrouttopullit.\"
ButByroniscertainlyapoorauthorityonthequalityofmercy.
Hiscontemptneednotcauseanhonestmanoverwhelmingdistress.I
shouldcallitacomplimentarydislike.
ThethirdauthorwhoexpressedunpleasantsentimentsinregardtoWaltonwasLeighHunt.Here,again,Ifancythatpartizanprejudicehadsomethingtodowiththedislike.Huntwasaradicalinpoliticsandreligion.Moreovertherewasafelinestraininhischaracter,whichmadeitnecessaryforhimtoscratchsomebodynowandthen,asarelieftohisfeelings.
Waltonwasagreatquoter.Hisbookisnot\"stuffed,\"asFranckjealouslyalleged,butitiscertainlywellsaucedwithpiquantreferencestootherwriters,asearlyastheauthoroftheBookofJob,andaslateasJohnDennys,whobetrayedtotheworldTHE
SECRETSOFANGLINGin1613.Waltonfurtherseasonedhisbookwithfragmentsofinformationaboutfishandfishing,moreorlessapocryphal,gatheredfromAelian,Pliny,Plutarch,SirFrancisBacon,Dubravius,Gesner,Rondeletius,thelearnedAldrovandus,thevenerableBede,thedivineDuBartas,andmanyothers.Heborrowedfreelyfortheadornmentofhisdiscourse,anddidnotscorntomakeuseofwhatmayhecalledLIVEQUOTATIONS,——thatistosay,theunpublishedremarksofhisnearcontemporaries,caughtinfriendlyconversation,orhandeddownbyoraltradition.
Butthesevariousseasoningsdidnotdisguise,theyonlyenhanced,thedelicateflavourofthedishwhichheserveduptohisreaders.
Thiswasallofhisowntaking,andofasweetnessquiteincomparable.
Ilikeawriterwhoisoriginalenoughtowaterhisgardenwithquotations,withoutfearofbeingdrownedout.SuchmenareCharlesLambandJamesRussellLowellandJohnBurroughs.
Walton’sbookisasfreshasahandfulofwildvioletsandsweetlavender.Itbreathestheodoursofthegreenfieldsandthewoods.
Ittastesofsimple,homely,appetizingthingslikethe\"syllabubofnewverjuiceinanew—madehaycock\"whichthemilkwomanpromisedtogivePiscatorthenexttimehecamethatway.ItsmusicplaysthetuneofACONTENTEDHEARToverandoveragainwithoutdulness,andcharmsusintoharmonywith\"AnoiselikethesoundofahiddenbrookIntheleafymonthofJune,ThattothesleepingwoodsallnightSingethaquiettune.\"
Waltonhasbeenquotedevenmorethananyofthewriterswhomhequotes.Itwouldbedifficult,evenifitwerenotungrateful,towriteaboutanglingwithoutreferringtohim.Someprettysaying,somewisereflectionfromhispages,suggestsitselfatalmosteveryturnofthesubject.
Andyethisbook,thoughitbethebest,isnottheonlyreadableonethathisfavouriterecreationhasbegotten.Theliteratureofanglingisextensive,asanyonemayseewhowilllookatthelistofthecollectionpresentedbyMr.JohnBartletttoHarvardUniversity,orstudythecatalogueofthepiscatoriallibraryofMr.
DeanSage,ofAlbany,whohimselfhascontributedanadmirablebookonTHERISTIGOUCHE.
Noristhisliteraturealtogethercomposedofdryandtechnicaltreatises,interestingonlytotheconfirmedanglimaniac,ortotheyoungnoviceardentinpursuitofpracticalinformation.Thereisagooddealofjuicyreadinginit.
Booksaboutanglingshouldbedivided(accordingtoDeQuincey’smethod)intotwoclasses,——theliteratureofknowledge,andtheliteratureofpower.
Thefirstclasscontainsthehandbooksonrodsandtackle,thedirectionshowtoanglefordifferentkindsoffish,andtheguidestovariousfishing—resorts.Theweaknessofthesebooksisthattheysoonfalloutofdate,asthemanufactureoftackleisimproved,theartofanglingrefined,andthefishinonce—famouswatersareeducatedorexterminated.
Alas,howtransientisthefashionofthisworld,eveninangling!
Theoldmanualswiththeirpreciseinstructionfortrimmingandpaintingtrout—rodseighteenfeetlong,andtheirpainfuldescriptionof\"oyntments\"madeofnettle—juice,fish—hawkoil,camphor,cat’sfat,orassafoedita,(supposedtoallurethefish,)
arealtogetherbehindtheage.ManyofthefliesdescribedbyCharlesCottonandThomasBarkerseemtohavegoneoutofstyleamongthetrout.Perhapsfamiliarityhasbredcontempt.Generationaftergenerationoffishhaveseenthesesameoldfeatheredconfectionsfloatingonthewater,andlearnedbysharpexperiencethattheydonottastegood.Theblasetroutdemandsomethingnew,somethingmodern.Itisforthisreason,Isuppose,thatanaltogetheroriginalfly,unheardof,startling,willoftendogreatexecutioninanover—fishedpool.
Certainitisthattheartofangling,insettledregions,isgrowingmoredaintyanddifficult.Youmustcastalonger,lighterline;youmustusefinerleaders;youmusthaveyourfliesdressedonsmallerhooks.
Andanotherthingiscertain:inmanyplaces(describedintheancientvolumes)wherefishwereonceabundant,theyarenowliketheshipwreckedsailorsinVergilhisAeneid,——
\"rarinantesingurgitevasto.\"
Thefloodsthemselvesarealsodisappearing.Mr.EdmundClarenceStedmanwastellingme,theotherday,ofthetrout—brookthatusedtorunthroughtheConnecticutvillagewhenhenourishedapoet’syouth.Hewentbacktovisitthestreamafewyearssince,anditwasgone,literallyvanishedfromthefaceofearth,stolentomakeawatersupplyforthetown,andusedforsuchbasepurposesasthewashingofclothesandthesprinklingofstreets.
Irememberanexpeditionwithmyfather,sometwentyyearsago,toNovaScotia,whitherwesetouttorealizethehopeskindledbyanANGLER’SGUIDEwrittenintheearlysixties.ItwaslikelookingfortallclocksinthefarmhousesaroundBoston.Theharvesthadbeenwellgleanedbeforeourarrival,andintheveryplacewhereourvisionaryauthorlocatedhismostfamouscatchwefoundasummerhotelandasawmill.
’Tisstrangeandsad,howmanyregionstherearewhere\"thefishingwaswonderfulfortyyearsago\"!
Thesecondclassofanglingbooks——theliteratureofpower——includesall(eventhosewrittenwithsomepurposeofinstruction)inwhichthegentlefascinationsofthesport,theattractionsoflivingout—
of—doors,thebeautiesofstreamandwoodland,therecollectionsofhappyadventure,andthecheerfulthoughtsthatmakethebestofaday’sluck,comeclearlybeforetheauthor’smindandfindsomefitexpressioninhiswords.Ofsuchbooks,thankHeaven,thereisaplentytobringaMaytidecharmandcheerintothefisherman’sdullDecember.Iwillname,bywayofrandomtributefromagratefulbutunmethodicalmemory,afewoftheseconsolatoryvolumes.
FirstofallcomesafamilyofbooksthatwereborninScotlandandsmelloftheheather.
WhateveraScotchman’sconsciencepermitshimtodo,islikelytobedonewithvigourandafierymind.Intradeandintheology,infishingandinfighting,heisallthereandthoroughlykindled.
Thereisanold—fashionedbookcalledTHEMOORANDTHELOCH,byJohnColquhoun,whichisfullofcontagiousenthusiasm.ThomasTodStoddartwasamostimpassionedangler,(thoughover—giventostronglanguage,)andinhisANGLINGREMINISCENCEShehastouchedthesubjectwithahappyhand,——happiestwhenhebreaksintopoetryandtossesoutasongforthefisherman.ProfessorJohnWilsonoftheUniversityofEdinburghheldthechairofMoralPhilosophyinthatinstitution,buthistruefamerestsonhiswell—earnedtitlesofA.
M.andF.R.S.,——MasterofAngling,andFishermanRoyalofScotland.HisRECREATIONSOFCHRISTOPHERNORTH,albeittheirhumourissometimestooboisterouslyhammeredin,aregenialandgenerousessays,overflowingwithpassagesofgood—fellowshipandpedestrianfancy.Iwouldrecommendanypersoninadryandmelancholystateofmindtoreadhispaperon\"Streams,\"inthefirstvolumeofESSAYSCRITICALANDIMAGINATIVE.Butitmustbesaid,bywayofwarningtothosewithwhomdrynessisamatterofprinciple,thatallScotchfishing—booksarelikelytobesprinkledwithHighlandDew.
AmongEnglishanglers,SirHumphryDavyisoneofwhomChristopherNorthspeaksratherslightingly.NeverthelesshisSALMONIAiswellworthreading,notonlybecauseitwaswrittenbyalearnedman,butbecauseitexhalesthespiritofcheerfulpietyandvitalwisdom.
CharlesKingsleywasanothergreatmanwhowrotewellaboutangling.
HisCHALK—STREAMSTUDIESareclearandsparkling.Theycleansethemindandrefreshtheheartandputusmoreinlovewithliving.OfquiteadifferentstylearetheMAXIMSANDHINTSFORANANGLER,AND
MISERIESOFFISHING,whichwerewrittenbyRichardPenn,agrandsonofthefounderofPennsylvania.Thisisacuriousandrarelittlevolume,professingtobeacompilationfromthe\"CommonPlaceBookoftheHoughtonFishingClub,\"anddealingwiththesubjectfromaPickwickianpointofview.IsupposethatWilliamPennwouldhavethoughthisgrandsonafrivolouswriter.
ButhecouldnothaveentertainedsuchanopinionoftheHonourableRobertBoyle,ofwhoseOCCASIONALREFLECTIONSnolessthantwelvediscoursestreat\"ofAnglingImprovedtoSpiritualUses.\"Thetitlesofsomeofthesediscoursesarequaintenoughtoquote.
\"Uponthebeingcalledupontoriseearlyonaveryfairmorning.\"
\"Uponthemounting,singing,andlightingoflarks.\"\"Uponfishingwithacounterfeitfly.\"\"Uponadangerarisingfromanunseasonablecontestwiththesteersman.\"\"Uponone’sdrinkingwateroutofthebrimofhishat.\"Withsuchgoodtextsitiseasytoendure,andeasierstilltospare,thesermons.
Englishmencarrytheirloveoftravelintotheiranglimania,andmanyoftheirbooksdescribefishingadventuresinforeignparts.
RAMBLESWITHAFISHING—ROD,byE.S.Roscoe,tellsofhappydaysintheSalzkammergutandtheBavarianHighlandsandNormandy.FISH—
TAILSANDAFEWOTHERS,byBradnockHall,containssomedelightfulchaptersonNorway.THERODININDIA,byH.S.Thomas,narrateswonderfuladventureswiththeMahseerandtheRohuandotherpaganfish.
But,afterall,IliketheEnglishanglerbestwhenhetravelsathome,andwritesofdry—flyfishingintheItchenortheTest,orofwet—flyfishinginNorthumberlandorSutherlandshire.Thereisafascinatingbookletthatappearedquietly,someyearsago,calledAN
AMATEURANGLER’SDAYSINDOVEDALE.Itrunsaseasilyandmerrilyandkindlyasalittleriver,fullofpeaceandpureenjoyment.
Otherbooksofthesamequalityhavesincebeenwrittenbythesamepen,——DAYSINCLOVER,FRESHWOODS,BYMEADOWANDSTREAM.Itisnosecret,Ibelieve,thattheauthorisMr.EdwardMarston,theseniormemberofaLondonpublishing—house.Buthestillclingstohisretiringpen—nameof\"TheAmateurAngler,\"andrepresentshimself,byagracefulfiction,asallunskilledintheart.AninstanceofsimilarmodestyisfoundinMr.AndrewLang,whoentitlesthefirstchapterofhisdelightfulANGLINGSKETCHES(withoutwhichnofisherman’slibraryiscomplete),\"ConfessionsofaDuffer.\"Thisanengaginglibertywhichnooneelsewoulddaretotake.
ThebestEnglishfish—storypureandsimple,thatIknow,is\"Crocker’sHole,\"byH.D.Black—more,thecreatorofLORNADOONE.
LetusturnnowtoAmericanbooksaboutangling.OfthesethemercifuldispensationsofProvidencehavebroughtforthnosmallstoresinceMr.WilliamAndrewChattomadetheill—naturedremarkwhichispilloriedattheheadofthischapter.Bytheway,itseemsthatMr.Chattohadneverheardof\"TheSchuylkillFishingCompany,\"whichwasfoundedonthatromanticstreamnearPhiladelphiain1732,norseentheAUTHENTICHISTORICALMEMOIRofthatcelebratedandamusingsociety.
IamsorryforthemanwhocannotfindpleasureinreadingtheappendixofTHEAMERICANANGLER’SBOOK,byThaddeusNorris;orthediscursivepagesofFrankForester’sFISHANDFISHING;ortheintroductionandnotesofthatunexcellededitionofWaltonwhichwasmadebytheReverendDoctorGeorgeW.Bethune;orSUPERIOR
FISHINGandGAMEFISHOFTHENORTH,byMr.RobertB.Roosevelt;orHenshall’sBOOKOFTHEBLACKBASS;ortheadmirabledisgressionsofMr.HenryP.Wells,inhisFLY—RODSANDFLY—TACKLE,andTHEAMERICAN
SALMONANGLER.Dr.WilliamC.Primehasneverputhisprofoundknowledgeoftheartofanglingintoamanualoftechnicalinstruction;buthehaswrittenofthedelightsofthesportinOWL
CREEKLETTERS,andinIGOA—FISHING,andinsomeofthechaptersofALONGNEWENGLANDROADSandAMONGNEWENGLANDHILLS,withapersuasiveskillthathascreatedmanynewanglers,andmademanyoldonesgrateful.Itisafittingcoincidenceofhereditythathisniece,Mrs.AnnieTrumbullSlosson,istheauthorofthemosttenderandpatheticofallanglingstories,FISHIN’JIMMY.
Butitisnotonlyinbookswrittenaltogetherfromhispeculiarpointofviewandtohumourhisharmlessinsanity,thattheanglermayfindpleasantreadingabouthisfavouritepastime.Thereareexcellentbitsoffishingscatteredallthroughthefieldofgoodliterature.Itseemsasifalmostallthemenwhocouldwritewellhadafriendlyfeelingforthecontemplativesport.
Plutarch,inTHELIVESOFTHENOBLEGRECIANSANDROMANS,tellsacapitalfish—storyofthemannerinwhichtheEgyptianCleopatrafooledthatfar—famedRomanwight,MarcAntony,whentheywereanglingtogetherontheNile.AsIrecallit,fromaperusalinearlyboyhood,Antonywashavingverybadluckindeed;infacthehadtakennothing,andwassadlyputoutaboutit.Cleopatra,thinkingtogetariseoutofhim,secretlytoldoneofherattendantstodiveovertheoppositesideofthebargeandfastenasaltfishtotheRomangeneral’shook.Theattendantwasmuchpleasedwiththiscommission,and,havingexecutedit,proceededtoaddafinestrokeofhisown;forwhenhehadmadethefishfastonthehook,hegaveagreatpulltothelineandheldontightly.
Antonywasmuchexcitedandbegantohaulviolentlyathistackle.
\"ByJupiter!\"heexclaimed,\"itwaslongincoming,butIhaveacolossalbitenow.\"
\"Haveacare,\"saidCleopatra,laughingbehindhersunshade,\"orhewilldragyouintothewater.Youmustgivehimlinewhenhepullshard.\"
\"NotadenariuswillIgive!\"rudelyrespondedAntony.\"ImeantohavethishalibutorHades!\"
Atthismomentthemanundertheboat,beingoutofbreath,letthelinego,andAntony,fallingbackward,drewupthesaltedherring.
\"Takethatfishoffthehook,Palinurus,\"heproudlysaid.\"ItisnotaslargeasIthought,butitlooksliketheoldestonethathasbeencaughtto—day.\"
Such,ineffect,isthetalenarratedbytheveraciousPlutarch.
Andifanycarefulcriticwishestoverifymyquotationfrommemory,hemaycompareitwiththeproperpageofLanghorne’stranslation;I
thinkitisinthesecondvolume,neartheend.
SirWalterScott,whooncedescribedhimselfas\"Nofisher,Butawell—wisherTothegame,\"
hasanamusingpassageofanglinginthethirdchapterofREDGAUNTLET.DarsieLatimerisrelatinghisadventuresinDumfriesshire.\"Bytheway,\"sayshe,\"oldCotton’sinstructions,bywhichIhopedtoqualifymyselfforthegentlesocietyofanglers,arenotworthafarthingforthismeridian.Ilearnedthisbymereaccident,afterIhadwaitedfourmortalhours.Ishallneverforgetanimpudenturchin,acowherd,abouttwelveyearsold,withouteitherbrogueorbonnet,barelegged,withaveryindifferentpairofbreeches,——howthevillaingrinnedinscornatmylanding—
net,myplummet,andthegorgeousjuryofflieswhichIhadassembledtodestroyallthefishintheriver.Iwasinducedatlasttolendtherodtothesneeringscoundrel,toseewhathewouldmakeofit;andhenotonlyhalf—filledmybasketinanhour,butliterallytaughtmetokilltwotroutswithmyownhand.\"
Thusancientandwell—authenticatedisthesuperstitionoftheanglingpowersofthebarefootedcountry—boy,——infiction.
SirEdwardBulwerLytton,inthatvaluablebutover—capitalizedbook,MYNOVEL,makesuseofFishingforAllegoricalPurposes.TheepisodeofJohnBurleyandtheOne—eyedPerchnotonlypointsaMoralbutadornstheTale.
IntheworksofR.D.Blackmore,anglingplaysalessinstructivebutapleasanterpart.Itiscloselyinterwovenwithlove.Thereisamagicaldescriptionoftrout—fishingonameadow—brookinALICE
LORRAINE.AndwhothathasreadLORNADOONE,(pityforthemanorwomanthatknowsnotthedelightofthatbook!)caneverforgethowyoungJohnRidddaredhiswayuptheglidderywater—slide,afterloaches,andfoundLornainafairgreenmeadowadornedwithflowers,atthetopofthebrook?
ImadealittlejourneyintotheDooneCountryonce,justtoseethatbrookandtofishinit.Thestreamlookedsmaller,andthewater—slidelessterrible,thantheyseemedinthebook.Butitwasamightyprettyplaceafterall;andIsupposethatevenJohnRidd,whenhecamebacktoitinafteryears,founditshrunkenalittle.
Allthestreamswerelargerinourboyhoodthantheyarenow,except,perhaps,thatwhichflowsfromthesweetestspringofall,thefountainoflove,whichJohnRidddiscoveredbesidetheBagworthyRiver,——andI,onthewillow—shadedbanksofthePatapsco,wheretheBaltimoregirlsfishforgudgeons,——andyou?Come,gentlereader,istherenostreamwhosenameismusicaltoyou,becauseofahiddenspringoflovethatyouoncefoundonitsshore?Thewatersofthatfountainneverfail,andinthemalonewetastetheundiminishedfulnessofimmortalyouth.
ThestoriesofWilliamBlackareenlivenedwithfish,andheknew,betterthanmostmen,howtheyshouldbetaken.Wheneverhewantedtogettwoyoungpeopleengagedtoeachother,allotherdevicesfailing,hesentthemouttoangletogether.Ifithadnotbeenforfishing,everythinginAPRINCESSOFTHULEandWHITEHEATHERwouldhavegonewrong.
Butevenmenwhohavebeendisappointedinlovemayangleforsolaceordiversion.Ihaveknownsomeoldbachelorswhofishedexcellentlywell;andothersIhaveknownwhocouldfind,andgive,muchpleasureinadayonthestream,thoughtheyhadnoskillinthesport.OfthisclasswasWashingtonIrving,withanextractfromwhoseSKETCHBOOKIwillbringthisramblingdissertationtoanend.
\"Ourfirstessay,\"sayshe,wasalongamountainbrookamongthehighlandsoftheHudson;amostunfortunateplacefortheexecutionofthosepiscatorytacticswhichhadbeeninventedalongthevelvetmarginsofquietEnglishrivulets.Itwasoneofthosewildstreamsthatlavish,amongourromanticsolitudes,unheededbeautiesenoughtofillthesketch—bookofahunterofthepicturesque.Sometimesitwouldleapdownrockyshelves,makingsmallcascades,overwhichthetreesthrewtheirbroadbalancingsprays,andlongnamelessweedshunginfringesfromtheimpendingbanks,drippingwithdiamonddrops.Sometimesitwouldbrawlandfretalongaravineinthemattedshadeofaforest,fillingitwithmurmurs;and,afterthistermagantcareer,wouldstealforthintoopenday,withthemostplacid,demurefaceimaginable;asIhaveseensomepestilentshrewofahousewife,afterfillingherhomewithuproarandill—
humour,comedimplingoutofdoors,swimmingandcourtesying,andsmilinguponalltheworld.
\"Howsmoothlywouldthisvagrantbrookglide,atsuchtimes,throughsomebosomofgreenmeadow—landamongthemountains,wherethequietwasonlyinterruptedbytheoccasionaltinklingofabellfromthelazycattleamongtheclover,orthesoundofawoodcutter’saxefromtheneighbouringforest!
\"Formypart,Iwasalwaysabungleratallkindsofsportthatrequiredeitherpatienceoradroitness,andhadnotangledabovehalfanhourbeforeIhadcompletely’satisfiedthesentiment,’andconvincedmyselfofthetruthofIzaakWalton’sopinion,thatanglingissomethinglikepoetry,——amanmustbeborntoit.I
hookedmyselfinsteadofthefish;tangledmylineineverytree;
lostmybait;brokemyrod;untilIgaveuptheattemptindespair,andpassedthedayunderthetrees,readingoldIzaak,satisfiedthatitwashisfascinatingveinofhonestsimplicityandruralfeelingthathadbewitchedme,andnotthepassionforangling.\"
ANORWEGIANHONEYMOON
\"Thebestrose—bush,afterall,isnotthatwhichhasthefewestthorns,butthatwhichbearsthefinestroses.\"——SOLOMONSINGLEWITZ:
TheLifeofAdam.
I
Itwasnotallunadulteratedsweetness,ofcourse.Therewereenoughdifficultiesinthewaytomakeitseemdesirable;andafewstingsofannoyance,nowandthen,lentpiquancytotheadventure.
Butagoodmemory,indealingwiththepast,hastheartofstrainingoutallthebeeswaxofdiscomfort,andstoringuplittlejarsofpurehydromel.AswelookbackatoursixweeksinNorway,weagreethatnoperiodofourpartnershipinexperimentalhoneymooninghasyieldedmorehoneytothesameamountofcomb.
Severalconsiderationsledustotheresolveoftakingourhoneymoonexperimentallyratherthanchronologically.Westartedfromtheself—evidentpropositionthatitoughttobethehappiesttimeinmarriedlife.
\"Itisperfectlyridiculous,\"saidmyladyGraygown,\"tosupposethatathinglikethatcanbefixedbythecalendar.Itmaypossiblyfallinthefirstmonthafterthewedding,butitisnotlikely.Justthinkhowslightlytwopeopleknoweachotherwhentheygetmarried.Theyareinlove,ofcourse,butthatisnotatallthesameasbeingwellacquainted.Sometimesthemorelove,thelessacquaintance!Andsometimesthemoreacquaintance,thelesslove!Besides,atfirsttherearealwaysthenotesofthanksforthewedding—presentstobewritten,andthelettersofcongratulationtobeanswered,anditisawfullyhardtomakeeachonesoundalittledifferentfromtheothersandperfectlynatural.
Then,youknow,everybodyseemstosuspectyouofthefollyofbeingnewlymarried.Yourunacrossyourfriendseverywhere,andtheygrinwhentheyseeyou.Youcan’thelpfeelingasifalotofpeoplewerewatchingyouthroughopera—glasses,ortakingsnap—shotsatyouwithakodak.Itisabsurdtoimaginethatthefirstmonthmustbetherealhoneymoon.Andjustsupposeitwere,——whatbadluckthatwouldbe!Whatwouldtherebetolookforwardto?\"
EverywordthatfellfromherlipsseemedtomelikethewisdomofDiotima.
\"Youareright,\"Icried;\"Portiacouldnotholdacandletoyouforclearargument.Besides,supposetwopeopleareimprudentenoughtogetmarriedinthefirstweekofDecember,aswedid!——whatbecomesofthechronologicalhoneymoonthen?ThereisnofishinginDecember,andalltheriversofParadise,atleastinourlatitude,arefrozenup.No,mylady,wewilldiscoverourmonthofhoneybytheempiricalmethod.Eachyearwewillsetouttogethertoseekitinasolitudefortwo;andwewillcomparenotesonmoons,andstrikethefinalbalancewhenwearesurethatourhappiestexperimenthasbeencompleted.\"
Wearenotsureofthat,evenyet.Wearestillengaged,asacommitteeoftwo,inourphilosophicalinvestigation,andwedeclinetomakeanythingbutareportofprogress.WeknowmorenowthanwedidwhenwefirstwenthoneymooninginthecityofWashington.Foronething,wearecertainthatnoteventhefar—famedrosemary—
fieldsofNarbonne,orthefragranthillsidesoftheCorbieres,yieldasweeterharvesttothebusy—nessofthebeesthantheNorwegianmeadowsandmountain—slopesyieldedtoouridlenessinthesummerof1888.
II
TherurallandscapeofNorway,onthelongeasterlyslopethatleadsuptothewatershedamongthemountainsofthewesterncoast,isnotunlikethatofVermontorNewHampshire.TherailwayfromChristianiatotheRandsfjordcarriedusthroughahillycountryofscatteredfarmsandvillages.Woodplayedaprominentpartinthescenery.Thereweredarkstretchesofforestonthehilltopsandinthevalleys;riversfilledwithfloatinglogs;sawmillsbesidethewaterfalls;woodenfarmhousespaintedwhite;andrail—fencesaroundthefields.Thepeopleseemedsturdy,prosperous,independent.
Theyhadthefamiliarhabitofcomingdowntothestationtoseethetrainarriveanddepart.WemighthavefanciedourselvesonajourneythroughtheConnecticutvalley,ifithadnotbeenforthesoftsing—songoftheNorwegianspeechandtheuniformpolitenessoftherailwayofficials.
WhataroomthatwasintheinnatRandsfjordwherewespentourfirstnightout!Vast,bare,primitive,witheightwindowstoadmitthepersistentnocturnaltwilight;asea—likefloorofblue—paintedboards,unbrokenbyasingleislandofcarpet;andacastellatedstoveinonecorner:anapartmentforgiants,withtwolittlebedsfordwarfsonoppositeshoresoftheocean.Therewasnotelephone;
sowearrangedasystemofcommunicationwithafishing—line,tomakesurethatthesleepypartnershouldbeawakeintimefortheearlyboatinthemorning.
Thejourneyupthelaketooksevenhours,andremindedusofavoyageonLakeGeorge;placid,picturesque,andpervadedbysummerboarders.Somewhereonthewaywehadlunch,andwerewellfortifiedtotaketheroadwhenthesteamboatlandedusatOdnaes,attheheadofthelake,abouttwoo’clockintheafternoon.
ThereareseveralmethodsinwhichyoumaydrivethroughNorway.
Thegovernmentmaintainsposting—stationsatthefarmsalongthemaintravelledhighways,whereyoucanhirehorsesandcarriagesofvariouskinds.TherearealsoEnglishtouristagencieswhichmakeabusinessofprovidingtravellerswithcompletetransportation.Youmaytryeitherofthesemethodsalone,oryoumaymakeajudiciousmixture.
Thus,byanapplicationofthetheoryofpermutationsandcombinations,youhaveyourchoiceamongfourwaysofaccomplishingadriving—tour.First,youmayengageacarriageandpair,withadriver,fromoneofthetouristagencies,androllthroughyourjourneyinsedentarycase,providedyourhorsesdonotgolameorgiveout.Second,youmayrelyaltogetherupontheposting—stationstosendyouonyourjourney;andthisisaverypleasant,livelyway,providedthereisnotacrowdoftravellersontheroadbeforeyou,whotakeupallthecomfortableconveyancesandleaveyounothingbutajoltingcartoraramshackleKARIOLofthetimeofSt.
Olaf.Third,youmayrentaneasy—ridingvehicle(bychoiceawell—
hunggig)fortheentiretrip,andchangeponiesatthestationsasyoudrivealong;thisisthesafestway.Thefourthmethodistohireyourhorsefleshatthebeginningforthewholejourney,andpickupyourvehiclesfromplacetoplace.Thismethodistheoreticallypossible,butIdonotknowanyonewhohastriedit.
OurgigwaswaitingforusatOdnaes.Therewasabrisklittlemouse—colouredponyintheshafts;andittookbutamomenttostrapourleatherportmanteauontheboardattheback,perchthepostboyontopofit,andsetoutforourfirstexperienceofaNorwegiandriving—tour.
Theroadatfirstwaslevelandeasy;andwebowledalongsmoothlythroughthevalleyoftheEtnaelv,amongdroopingbirch—treesandgreenfieldswherethelarksweresinging.AtTomlevolden,tenmilesfartheron,wereachedthefirststation,acomfortableoldfarmhouse,withagreatarrayofwoodenoutbuildings.HerewehadachancetotryourluckwiththeNorwegianlanguageindemanding\"enhest,saastraxtsommuligt.\"Thiswaswhattheguide—booktoldustosaywhenwewantedahorse.
Thereisgreatfuninmakingarandomcastonthesurfaceofastrangelanguage.Youcannottellwhatwillcomeup.Itislikeanexperimentinwitchcraft.Weshouldnothavebeenatallsurprised,Imustconfess,ifourpreliminaryincantationhadbroughtforthacoworabasketofeggs.
Butthegoodpeopleseemedtodivineourintentions;andwhilewewerewaitingforoneofthestable—boystocatchandharnessthenewhorse,ayellow—hairedmaideninquired,inveryfairEnglish,ifwewouldnotbepleasedtohaveacupofteaandsomebutter—bread;
whichwedidwithgreatcomfort.
TheSKYDSGUT,orso—calledpostboy,forthenextstageofthejourney,wasafull—grownmanofconsiderableweight.Asheclimbedtohisperchonourportmanteau,myladyGraygowncongratulatedmeontheprudencewhichhadprovidedthatonesideofthatreceptacleshouldbeofaninflexiblestiffness,quiteincapableofbeingcrushed;otherwise,askedshe,whatwouldhavebecomeofherSundayfrockunderthepressureofthissternnecessityofapostboy?
ButIthinkweshouldnothavecaredverymuchifallourluggagehadbeensmashedonthisjourney,fortheroadnowbegantoascend,andtheviewsovertheEtnadal,withitswindingriver,wereofabreadthandsweetnessmostconsoling.Upandupwewent,curvinginandoutthroughtheforest,crossingwildravinesandshadowydells,lookingbackateveryturnonthewidelandscapebathedingoldenlight.AtthestationofSveen,wherewechangedhorseandpostboyagain,itwasalreadyevening.Thesunwasdown,butthemysticalradianceofthenortherntwilightilluminedthesky.Thedarkfir—
woodsspreadaroundus,andtheirodourousbreathwasdiffusedthroughthecool,stillair.Wewerecrossingthelevelsummitoftheplateau,twenty—threehundredfeetabovethesea.Twotinywoodlandlakesgleamedoutamongthetrees.Thentheroadbegantoslopegentlytowardsthewest,andemergedsuddenlyontheedgeoftheforest,lookingoutoverthelong,lovelyvaleofValders,withsnow—touchedmountainsonthehorizon,andtheriverBaegnashimmeringalongitsbed,athousandfeetbelowus.
Whataheart—enlargingoutlook!Whatakeenjoyofmotion,asthewheelsrolleddownthelongincline,andthesure—footedponyswungbetweentheshaftsandrattledhishoofsmerrilyonthehardroad!
Whatlong,deepbreathsofsilentpleasureinthecrispnightair!
Whatwondrousminglingoflightsintheafterglowofsunset,andtheprimrosebloomofthefirststars,andfaintforegleamingsoftherisingmooncreepingoverthehillbehindus!Whatperfectionofcompanionshipwithoutwords,aswerodetogetherthroughastrangeland,alongtheedgeofthedark!
Whenwefinishedthethirty—fifthmile,anddrewupinthecourtyardofthestationatFrydenlund,Graygownsprangout,withalittlesighofregret.
\"Isitlastnight,\"shecried,\"orto—morrowmorning?Ihaven’ttheleastideawhattimeitis;itseemsasifwehadbeentravellingineternity.\"
\"Itisjustteno’clock,\"Ianswered,\"andthelandlordsaystherewillbeahotsupperoftroutreadyforusinfiveminutes.\"
Itwouldbevaintoattempttogiveadailyrecordofthewholejourneyinwhichwemadethisfairbeginning.Itwasamostidleandunsystematicpilgrimage.Wewanderedupanddown,andturnedasidewhenfancybeckoned.Sometimeswehurriedonasfastasthehorseswouldcarryus,drivingsixtyorseventymilesaday;
sometimesweloiteredanddawdled,asifwedidnotcarewhetherwegotanywhereornot.Ifaplacepleasedus,westayedandtriedthefishing.Ifweweretiredofdriving,wetooktothewater,andtravelledbysteameralongafjord,orhiredarowboattocrossfrompointtopoint.Onedaywewouldbeinagoodlittlehotel,withpolyglotguests,andserving—maidsinstageyNorsecostumes,——likethefamousinnatStalheim,whichcommandstheamazingpanoramaoftheNaerodal.AnotherdaywewouldlodgeinaplainfarmhouselikethestationatNedreVasenden,whereeggsandfishwerethestaplesofdiet,andthefarmer’sdaughterworethepicturesquepeasants’
dress,withitstallcap,withoutanydramaticairs.Lakesandrivers,precipicesandgorges,waterfallsandglaciersandsnowymountainswereourdailyrepast.Wedroveoverfivehundredmilesinvariouskindsofopenwagons,KARIOLSforone,andSTOLKJAERRES
fortwo,afterwehadleftourcomfortablegigbehindus.Wesawtheancientdragon—gabledchurchofBurgund;andthedelightful,showerytownofBergen;andthegloomycliffsoftheGeiranger—Fjordlacedwithfilmycataracts;andthebewitchedcragsoftheRomsdal;
andthewide,desolatelandscapeofJerkin;andahundredotherunforgottenscenes.Somehoworotherwewent,(aroundandabout,andupanddown,nowonwheels,andnowonfoot,andnowinaboat,)
allthewayfromChristianiatoThrondhjem.MyladyGraygowncouldgiveyoutheexactitinerary,forshehasbeenwellbroughtup,andalwayskeepsadiary.AllIknowis,thatwesetoutfromonecityandarrivedattheother,andwegatheredbythewayacollectionofinstantaneousphotographs.Iamgoingtoturnthemovernow,andpickoutafewoftheclearestpictures.
III
HereisthebridgeovertheNaeselvatFagernaes.Justbelowitisagoodpoolfortrout,buttheriverisbroadanddeepandswift.
Itisdifficultwadingtogetoutwithinreachofthefish.Ihavetakenhalfadozensmallonesandcometotheendofmycast.Thereisabigonelyingoutinthemiddleoftheriver,Iamsure.Butthewateralreadyrisestomyhips;anotherstepwillbringitoverthetopofmywaders,andsendmedownstreamfeetuppermost.
\"Takecare!\"criesGraygownfromthegrassybank,whereshesitsplacidlycrochetingsomemysteriousfabricofwhiteyarn.
Shedoesnotseethelargerocklyingatthebottomoftheriverjustbeyondme.IfIcansteponthat,andstandtherewithoutbeingsweptaway,Icanreachthemid—currentwithmyflies.Itisalongstrideandaslipperyfoothold,butbygoodluck\"thelaststepwhichcosts\"isaccomplished.Thetinyblackandorangehacklegoescurlingoutoverthestream,lightssoftly,andswingsaroundwiththecurrent,foldingandexpandingitsfeathersasifitwerealive.Thebigtrouttakesitpromptlytheinstantitpassesoverhim;andIplayhimandnethimwithoutmovingfrommyperilousperch.
Graygownwaveshercrochet—worklikeaflag,\"Bravo!\"shecries.
\"That’sabeauty,nearlytwopounds!Butdobecarefulaboutcomingback;youarenotgoodenoughtotakeanyrisksyet.\"
ThestationatSkogstadisasolitaryfarmhouselyingfaruponthebarehillside,withitsbarnsandout—buildingsgroupedaroundacentralcourtyard,likearudefortress.Therivertravelsalongthevalleybelow,nowwrestlingitswaythroughanarrowpassageamongtherocks,nowspreadingoutatleisureinagreenmeadow.Aswecrossthebridge,thecrystalwaterischangedtoopalbythesunsetglow,andagentlebreezerufflesthelongpools,andthetroutarerisingfreely.Itistheperfecthourforfishing.WouldGraygowndaretodriveonalonetothegateofthefortress,andblowuponthelonghornwhichdoubtlesshangsbesideit,anddemandadmittanceandalodging,\"inthenameofthegreatJehovahandtheContinentalCongress,\"——whileIangledowntheriveramileorso?
Certainlyshewould.WhatdooristhereinEuropeatwhichtheAmericangirlisafraidtoknock?\"Butwaitamoment.HowdoyouaskforfriedchickenandpancakesinNorwegian?KYLLINGOG
PANDEKAGE?Howfierceitsounds!Allrightnow.Runalongandfish.\"
Theriverwelcomesmelikeanoldfriend.Thetunethatitsingsisthesamethattheflowingwaterrepeatsallaroundtheworld.Nototherwisedothelivelyrapidscarrythefamiliarair,andthelargerfallsdroneoutaburlybass,alongthewestbranchofthePenobscot,ordownthevalleyoftheBouquet.Butheretherearenoforeststoconcealthecourseofthestream.Itliesasfreetotheviewasachild’sthought.AsIfollowonfrompooltopool,pickingoutagoodtrouthereandthere,nowfromarockycorneredgedwithfoam,nowfromaswiftgravellyrun,nowfromasnughiding—placethatthecurrenthashollowedoutbeneaththebank,allthewayIcanseethefortressfarabovemeonthehillside.
IamassurethatithasalreadysurrenderedtoGraygownasifI
coulddiscernherwhitebannerofcrochet—workfloatingfromthebattlements.
Justbeforedark,Iclimbthehillwithaheavybasketoffish.Thecastlegateisopen.Thescentofchickenandpancakessalutesthewearypilgrim.Inacosylittleparlour,adornedwithfluffymatsandpicturesframedinpine—cones,litbyahanginglampwithglasspendants,sitsthemistressoftheoccasion,calmlytriumphantandplyinghercrochet—needle.
Thereissomethingmysteriousaboutawoman’sfancy—work.Itseemstohaveallthesoothingcharmofthetobacco—plant,withoutitsinconveniences.Justtoseehertranquillity,whilesherelaxeshermindandbusiesherfingerswithabitoftattingorembroideryorcrochet,givesmeasenseofbeingdomesticated,a\"homey\"feeling,anywhereinthewideworld.
IfyouevergotoNorway,youmustbesuretoseetheLoenvand.YoucansetoutfromthecomfortablehotelatFaleide,gouptheIndvikFjordinarowboat,crossoveratwo—milehillonfootorbycarriage,spendahappydayonthelake,andreturntoyourinnintimeforalatesupper.ThelakeisperhapsthemostbeautifulinNorway.Longandnarrow,itlieslikeapricelessemeraldofpalestgreen,hiddenandguardedbyjealousmountains.Itisfedbyhugeglaciers,whichhangovertheshouldersofthehillslikeraggedcloaksofice.
Aswerowalongtheshore,trollinginvainforthetroutthatliveintheice—coldwater,fragmentsofthetatteredcloth—of—silverfaraboveus,ontheoppositeside,areloosenedbythetouchofthesummersun,andfallfromtheprecipice.Theydriftdownward,atfirst,asnoiselesslyasthistledowns;thentheystriketherocksandcomecrashingtowardsthelakewiththehollowroarofanavalanche.
Attheheadofthelakewefindourselvesinanenormousamphitheatreofmountains.Glaciersarepeeringdownuponus.
Snow—fieldsglareatuswithglisteningeyes.Blackcragsseemtobendaboveuswithaneternalfrown.Streamersoffoamfloatfromtheforeheadofthehillsandthelipsofthedarkravines.Butthereisalittleriverofcold,purewaterflowingfromoneoftheriversofice,andapleasantshelterofyoungtreesandbushesgrowingamongthedebrisofshatteredrocks;andtherewebuildourcamp—fireandeatourlunch.
Hungerisamostimpudentappetite.Itmakesamanforgetalltheproprieties.Whatplaceistheresolofty,soawful,thathewillnotdaretositdowninitandpartakeoffood?EvenonthesideofMountSinai,theeldersofIsraelspreadtheirout—of—doortable,\"anddideatanddrink.\"
IseetheTarnoftheElkatthismoment,justasitlookedintheclearsunlightofthatAugustafternoon,tenyearsago.Fardowninahollowofthedesolatehillsitnestles,fourthousandfeetabovethesea.Themoorlandtrailhangshighaboveit,and,thoughitisamileaway,everycurveofthetreelessshore,everyshoalandreefinthelightgreenwaterisclearlyvisible.Withapowerfulfield—
glassonecanalmostseethelargetroutforwhichthepondisfamous.
Theshelter—hutonthebankisbuiltofroughgraystones,andtheroofisleakytothelightaswellastotheweather.Buttherearetwobedsinit,oneformyguideandoneforme;andapracticablefireplace,whichissoonfilledwithablazeofcomfort.Thereisalsoarandomlibraryofnovels,whichformerfishermenhavethoughtfullyleftbehindthem.Ilikestrongreadinginthewilderness.Givemeastorywithplentyofdangerandwholesomefightinginit,——\"TheThreeMusketeers,\"or\"TreasureIsland,\"or\"TheAfghan’sKnife.\"Intricatestudiesofsocialdilemmasandtalesofmildphilanderingseembloodlessandinsipid.
ThetroutintheTarnoftheElkarelarge,undoubtedly,buttheyarealsofewinnumberandshyindisposition.Eithersomeofthepeasantshavebeenfishingoverthemwiththedeadly\"otter,\"orelsetheybelongtothatvarietyofthetroutfamilyknownasTRUTTA
DAMNOSA,——thespecieswhichyoucanseebutcannottake.Wewatchedtheseaggravatingfishplayingonthesurfaceatsunset;wesawthemdartbeneathourboatintheearlymorning;butnotuntiladrivingsnowstormsetin,aboutnoonofthesecondday,didwesucceedinpersuadinganyofthemtotakethefly.Thentheyrose,foracoupleofhours,withamiableperversity.Icaughtfive,weighingbetweentwoandfourpoundseach,andstoppedbecausemyhandsweresonumbthatIcouldcastnolonger.
Nowforalongtrampoverthehillsandhome.Yes,home;foryonderinthewhitehouseatDrivstuen,withfuchsiasandgeraniumsbloominginthewindows,andapretty,friendlyNorsegirltokeephercompany,myladyiswaitingforme.See,shecomesrunningouttothedoor,inthegatheringdusk,witharedflowerinherhair,andhailsmewiththefisherman’sgreeting.WHATLUCK?
Well,THISluck,atallevents!Icanshowyouafewgoodfish,andsitdownwithyoutoasupperofreindeer—venisonandaquieteveningofmusicandtalk.
ShallIforgetthee,hospitableStuefloten,dearesttoourmemoryofalltherusticstationsinNorway?TherearenostarsbesidethynameinthepagesofBaedeker.Butinthebookofourheartsawholeconstellationisthine.
Thelong,low,whitefarmhousestandsonagreenhillattheheadoftheRomsdal.Aflourishingcropofgrassandflowersgrowsonthestable—roof,andthereisalittlebelfrywithabigbelltocallthelabourershomefromthefields.Inthecorneroftheliving—
roomoftheoldhousethereisabroadfireplacebuiltacrosstheangle.Curiouscupboardsaretuckedawayeverywhere.Thelongtableinthedining—roomgroansthriceadaywithgenerousfare.
ThereareasmanykindsofhotbreadasinaVirginiacountry—house;
thecreamisthickenoughtomakeaspoonstandupinamazement;
once,atdinner,wesatembarrassedbeforesixdifferentvarietiesofpudding.
Intheevening,whenthesaffronlightisbeginningtofade,wegooutandwalkintheroadbeforethehouse,lookingdownthelongmysticalvaleoftheRauma,oruptothepurplewesternhillsfromwhichtheclearstreamsoftheUlvaaflowtomeetus.
AboveStueflotentheRaumalingersandmeandersthroughasmootherandmoreopenvalley,withbroadbedsofgravelandflowerymeadows.
Herethetroutandgraylinggrowfatandlusty,andhereweangleforthem,dayafterday,inwatersocrystallinethatwhenonestepsintothestreamonehardlyknowswhethertoexpectadepthofsixinchesorsixfeet.
TinyEnglishfliesandleadersofgossamerarethetackleforsuchwaterinmidsummer.Withthisdelicateoutfit,andwithalighthandandalongline,onemayeasilyoutfishthenativeangler,andfillatwelve—poundbasketeveryfairday.IrememberanoldNorwegian,aninveteratefisherman,whosefootmarkswesawaheadofusonthestreamallthroughanafternoon.FootmarksIcallthem;
andsotheywere,literally,fortherewereonlytheprintsofasinglefoottobeseenonthebanksofsand,andbetweenthem,aseriesofsmall,round,deepholes.
\"Whatkindofabirdmadethosemarks,Frederik?\"Iaskedmyfaithfulguide.
\"ThatisoldPedersen,\"hesaid,\"withhiswoodenleg.Hemakesadotaftereverystep.Weshallcatchhiminalittlewhile.\"
Sureenough,aboutsixo’clockwesawhimstandingonagrassypoint,hurlinghisline,withafatwormontheendofit,faracrossthestream,andlettingitdriftdownwiththecurrent.Butthewaterwastoofineforthatstyleoffishing,andthepooroldfellowhadbutahalfdozenlittlefish.Mycreelwasalreadyoverflowing,soIemptiedoutallofthegraylingintohisbag,andwentonuptherivertocompletemytaleoftroutbeforedark.
Andwhenthefishingisover,thereisGraygownwiththewagon,waitingattheappointedplaceunderthetrees,besidetheroad.
Thesturdywhiteponytrotsgaylyhomeward.Thepaleyellowstarsblossomoutabovethehillsagain,astheydidonthatfirstnightwhenweweredrivingdownintotheValders.Frederikleansoverthebackoftheseat,tellingusmarvelloustales,inhisbrokenEnglish,ofthefishinginacertainlakeamongthemountains,andofthereindeer—shootingonthefjeldbeyondit.
\"Itissadthatyougoto—morrow,\"sayshe\"butyoucomebackanotheryear,Ithink,tofishinthatlake,andtoshootthosereindeer.\"
Yes,Frederik,wearecomingbacktoNorwaysomeday,perhaps,——whocantell?Itisoneofthehundredplacesthatwearevaguelyplanningtorevisit.For,thoughwedidnotseethemidnightsunthere,wesawthehoneymoonmostdistinctly.Anditwasbrightenoughtotakepicturesbyitslight.
WHOOWNSTHEMOUNTAINS?
\"Myheartisfixedfirmandstableinthebeliefthatultimatelythesunshineandthesummer,theflowersandtheazuresky,shallbecome,asitwere,interwovenintoman’sexistence.Heshalltakefromalltheirbeautyandenjoytheirglory.\"——RICHARDJEFFERIES:
TheLifeoftheFields.
Itwasthelittleladthataskedthequestion;andtheansweralso,asyouwillsee,wasmainlyhis.
WehadbeenkeepingSundayafternoontogetherinourfavouritefashion,followingoutthatpleasanttextwhichtellsusto\"beholdthefowlsoftheair.\"ThereisnoinjunctionofHolyWritlessburdensomeinacceptance,ormoreprofitableinobedience,thanthiseasyout—of—doorscommandment.Forseveralhourswewalkedinthewayofthisprecept,throughtheuntangledwoodsthatliebehindtheForestHillsLodge,whereapairofpigeon—hawkshadtheirnest;andaroundthebramblyshoresofthesmallpond,whereMarylandyellow—
throatsandsong—sparrowsweresettled;andundertheloftyhemlocksofthefragmentofforestacrosstheroad,whererarewarblersflittedsilentlyamongthetree—tops.Thelightbeneaththeevergreenswasgrowingdimaswecameoutfromtheirshadowintothewidespreadglowofthesunset,ontheedgeofagrassyhill,overlookingthelongvalleyoftheGaleRiver,anduplookingtotheFranconiaMountains.
Itwasthebenedictionhour.Theplacidairofthedayshedanewtranquillityovertheconsolinglandscape.Theheartoftheearthseemedtotasteareposemoreperfectthanthatofcommondays.A
hermit—thrush,farupthevale,sanghisvesperhymn;whiletheswallows,seekingtheireveningmeal,circledabovetheriver—fieldswithoutaneffort,twitteringsoftly,nowandthen,asiftheymustgivethanks.Slightandindefinabletouchesinthescene,perhapsthemereabsenceofthetinyhumanfigurespassingalongtheroadorlabouringinthedistantmeadows,perhapsthebluecurlsofsmokerisinglazilyfromthefarmhousechimneys,orthefamilygroupssittingunderthemaple—treesbeforethedoor,diffusedasabbathatmosphereovertheworld.
Thensaidthelad,lyingonthegrassbesideme,\"Father,whoownsthemountains?\"
Ihappenedtohaveheard,thedaybefore,oftwoorthreelumbercompaniesthathadboughtsomeofthewoodlandslopes;soItoldhimtheirnames,addingthattherewereprobablyagoodmanydifferentowners,whoseclaimstakenalltogetherwouldcoverthewholeFranconiarangeofhills.
\"Well,\"answeredthelad,afteramomentofsilence,\"Idon’tseewhatdifferencethatmakes.Everybodycanlookatthem.\"
Theylaystretchedoutbeforeusinthelevelsunlight,thesharppeaksoutlinedagainstthesky,thevastridgesofforestsinkingsmoothlytowardsthevalleys.thedeephollowsgatheringpurpleshadowsintheirbosoms,andthelittlefoothillsstandingoutinroundedpromontoriesofbrightergreenfromthedarkermassbehindthem.
Fartotheeast,thelongcombofTwinMountainextendeditselfbackintotheuntroddenwilderness.MountGarfieldliftedaclear—cutpyramidthroughthetranslucentair.ThehugebulkofLafayetteascendedmajesticallyinfrontofus,crownedwitharosydiademofrocks.EagleCliffandBaldMountainstretchedtheirlineofscallopedpeaksacrosstheentrancetotheNotch.Beyondthatshadowyvale,theswellingsummitsofCannonMountainrolledawaytomeetthetumblingwavesofKinsman,dominatedbyoneloftiercrestedbillowthatseemedalmostreadytocurlandbreakoutofgreensilenceintosnowyfoam.FardownthesleepingLandaffvalleytheundulatingdomeofMoosilauketrembledinthedistantblue.
Theywereallours,fromcrestedclifftowoodedbase.Thesolemngrovesoffirsandspruces,theplumedsierrasofloftypines,thestatelypillaredforestsofbirchandbeech,thewildravines,thetremulousthicketsofsilverypoplar,thebarepeakswiththeirwideoutlooks,andthecoolvalesresoundingwiththeceaselesssongoflittlerivers,——weknewandlovedthemall;theyministeredpeaceandjoytous;theywereallours,thoughweheldnotitledeedsandourownershiphadneverbeenrecorded.
Whatisproperty,afterall?Thelawsaystherearetwokinds,realandpersonal.Butitseemstomethattheonlyrealpropertyisthatwhichistrulypersonal,thatwhichwetakeintoourinnerlifeandmakeourownforever,byunderstandingandadmirationandsympathyandlove.Thisistheonlykindofpossessionthatisworthanything.
AgalleryofgreatpaintingsadornsthehouseoftheHonourableMidasBond,andeveryyearaddsanewtreasuretohiscollection.
Heknowshowmuchtheycosthim,andhekeepstherunofthequotationsattheauctionsales,congratulatinghimselfasthepriceoftheworksofhiswell—chosenartistsrisesinthescale,andthevalueofhisarttreasuresisenhanced.Butwhyshouldhecallthemhis?Heisonlytheircustodian.Hekeepsthemwellvarnished,andframedingilt.Butheneverpassesthroughthosegildedframesintotheworldofbeautythatliesbehindthepaintedcanvas.Heknowsnothingofthoselovelyplacesfromwhichtheartist’ssoulandhandhavedrawntheirinspiration.Theyareclosedandbarredtohim.Hehasboughtthepictures,buthecannotbuythekey.Thepoorartstudentwhowandersthroughhisgallery,lingeringwithaweandlovebeforethemasterpieces,ownsthemfarmoretrulythanMidasdoes.
PomposusSilvermanpurchasedarichlibraryafewyearsago.Thebookswererareandcostly.ThatwasthereasonwhyPomposusboughtthem.Hewasproudtofeelthathewasthepossessorofliterarytreasureswhichwerenottobefoundinthehousesofhiswealthiestacquaintances.ButthethreadbareBucherfreund,whowasengagedataslendersalarytocataloguethelibraryandtakecareofit,becametherealproprietor.Pomposuspaidforthebooks,butBucherfreundenjoyedthem.
Idonotmeantosaythatthepossessionofmuchmoneyisalwaysabarriertorealwealthofmindandheart.NorwouldImaintainthatallthepoorofthisworldarerichinfaithandheirsofthekingdom.Butsomeofthemare.Andifsomeoftherichofthisworld(throughthegraceofHimwithwhomallthingsarepossible)
arealsomodestintheirtastes,andgentleintheirhearts,andopenintheirminds,andreadytobepleasedwithunboughtpleasures,theysimplyshareinthebestthingswhichareprovidedforall.
Ispeaknotnowofthestrifethatmenwageoverthedefinitionandthelawsofproperty.Doubtlessthereismuchherethatneedstobesetright.Therearemenandwomenintheworldwhoareshutoutfromtherighttoearnaliving,sopoorthattheymustperishforwantofdailybread,sofullofmiserythatthereisnoroomforthetiniestseedofjoyintheirlives.Thisisthelingeringshameofcivilization.Someday,perhaps,weshallfindthewaytobanishit.Someday,everymanshallhavehistitletoashareintheworld’sgreatworkandtheworld’slargejoy.
Butmeantimeitiscertainthat,wherethereareahundredpoorbodieswhosufferfromphysicalprivation,thereareathousandpoorsoulswhosufferfromspiritualpoverty.Torelivethisgreatersufferingthereneedsnochangeoflaws,onlyachangeofheart.
WhatdoesitprofitamantobethelandedproprietorofcountlessacresunlesshecanreaptheharvestofdelightthatbloomsfromeveryroodofGod’searthfortheseeingeyeandthelovingspirit?
Andwhocanreapthatharvestsocloselythatthereshallnotbeabundantgleaningleftforallmankind?Themostthatawideestatecanyieldtoitslegalownerisaliving.Buttherealownercangatherfromafieldofgoldenrod,shiningintheAugustsunlight,anunearnedincrementofdelight.
Wemeasuresuccessbyaccumulation.Themeasureisfalse.Thetruemeasureisappreciation.Hewholovesmosthasmost.